Whoa, GO LUKE! I did it for 3 years, if any advice is needed then please do shout. I expect he'll do much better than I did though lol Especially with a nice stove like that. My main observation is that yurts are NOT designed to be sedentary nor to take the constant rain of this country. They are meant to be taken-down and cleaned/maintained once a month or-so and while they can deal with extreme cold it is dry cold not rain and mud etc. Which the entire extended family all do together. A couple of layers of Tyvek housewrap in between the outer canvas and the inner insulation layer (which is inch-thick animal felt) was very useful. But personally, I would now go with straw-bales for a wall and cob or lime-strengthened cob or something of that ilk. Another point, is that this kind of "primitive"-modern living is not yet a happy mixture. In the past one was part of a larger community or a nuclear extended family. So you could go-out all day to work or hunt etc and come-back to find the fire is still nicely roaring, wood has been cut and stacked, water is boiling... and you could return the favour for your neighbour. This doesn't work if you are on your own as I was. So some thinking is needed to overcome all the extra time for those little jobs that keep one warm and fed and morale high. Also, you WILL get some kind of rodent at some stage. Hopefully mice. Be ready for that. If you use a raised platform to put it on, you can get rats living underneath it, but if you don't do that then you get damp coming-up through the floor. Perhaps a raised platform and filled with gravel or sand etc might be a solution. The absolute best of luck to Luke on this adventure, I am rather jealous!
I live in Alaska. I heated a 600 sq. foot room for two winters with what's basically a large homebuilt rocket stove. Three immediate changes I had to make. 1) External air intake. Air sucked from inside the room must be replaced by air from outside the room. Which is c-c-cold air. 2) Larger wood capacity, else one spends all one's time feeding the dratted thing. And 3) External venting of flue gasses. Else it will kill you. PS - I now own a pellet stove. It's only a (roughly) gazillion times better.
@@barnabyvonrudal1 Thought about it a LOT. But the area I had available for the stove wouldn't support much more weight, and I'd increased to almost 1000 sq feet of living space over the summer 'construction season'. Just went with a pellet stove.
@@freeman6147 No hopper. Old propane tank that I modified. Eventually became such a pain in the ass that I bought an actual commercial pellet stove from Lowes, and I love it. So much better, and my existing chimney and air intake were easily adjusted to fit it.
Quick & easy functional design, a great inspiration and basis on which to add improvements or features as needed or desired. For instance, having the bottom on hinges too, to instantly collect the ashes into a bottom tray. A cylindrical chimney might work better to form a coil of copper all around it, etc.
Gotta be honest. I find the information very helpful and incredibly broad. But your enjoyment of the process of creation and discovery is what I enjoy almost as much as the info itself.
Great piece of work! Perhaps an alternative is to use a round chimney. Then it is easier to twist a copper tube around it and feed water through to produce hot water😊
It also makes for smoother air flow and less likely to cause turbulence. I know making these things out of square stock is easier to weld and stable by itself but makes for a less efficient design.
@@michbushi No, you don't because that causes hot or cold spots and unburnt gases/fuel. You want a smooth even air flow so everything both combusts fully and reduces or eliminates build up on your exhaust.
I did 2 years off grid in a static caravan, I had a stove made from an old gas cannister, took the WiFi from our local pub using a dongle and an old colander - it's all about the focal point! Best of luck to u Luke! A nice fire that is Rob, nice clean chimney during the burn!
I've seen a lot of rocket stove designs, that's a beauty. So simple, it's elegant. A few Peltier devices, and Luke could have enough electricity to light an led lamp in his shack out the back ;)
I made one basically the same and had a beer keg on its side on the top as an oven . Just cut the top out as a square and put a hinge on . I had potato size rocks in it to diffuse the heat and cooked pizza and all sorts in it . Even a cob of bread too. In hind site I would leave the keg upright and cut a door in the side .
@@michealroche1931 hi there . That was over 10 years ago . Its not hard to imagine the flame going up and hitting the bottom of a keg . You have to put rocks in though otherwise it gets way to hot in there .
Onya Luke for the decision to go off grid. If you are using the rocket stove inside, put a spherical stainless steel grill over the chimney to act as a spark arrestor. If it is large enough it should not impinge on draw characteristics. Great job lads!
This is great. I'd probably add a little stove top above the fire and definitely the sand battery/boiler pipe around the chimney. What would be great for that though, would be a removable sand battery - so if he finishes working outside with it, he can transfer some of the heat back into his living area like a super charged hot water bottle... but with a box of sand.
Also depending on location you could install an air pipe that draws from outside air (low end) and feeds past the chimney into the hut itself (high end) and the heating of the air will cause it to draw. Fairly sure you could get a lot of heating from that which would otherwise go to waste.
The rocket stove is designed to get lots of heat and airflow helping burn all the fuel. A catalytic converter is only needed if you have unburned fuel, typically seen as smoke and soot. Get lots of air into you stove for a clean burn and avoid adding demand for illegally harvested catalytic converters.
Robert, you're the ideal neighbor. Wish you were living next door to me. Saturday afternoons would be a blast. Now I have to go source some square steel tubing...Thanks, man!
Great video, thanks for the upload. For anyone trying to weld for the first time, one small tip make lots tacks along or around the piece your working on to stop it warping.
Looking good. And good luck to Luke. A hinged plate on the front feed with a damper would be a good addition; so the stove doesn't have to always run at the maximum rate.
Good luck to you Luke! Always wanted to wander off and build off grid, but it's a distant dream for now. Look forward to seeing your videos on the process.🍻
You do have a point on the welding. In my experience, you should have soldering experience prior to welding. The point on that is once you are used to making the connections clean prior to making a heated metal connection, you already have one of the most important habbits for both. It will be a poor weld with soiled metal to metal without that habit of cleaning where the connection is. It definitly looked like really good welds with your experience, keep it up and keep experimenting!
What I love about this design is, it's inconspicuous. You can be burning wood/fuel and staying warm, and nobody can 'see' or find you, from the smoke, because there is none!
How do you deal with the waste? Once fitted up to something you will need the ability to disconnect auxiliary systems to handle the stove to empty the leftovers, perhaps a cut out section you can slide to access the burn section. Maybe a drop shoot up the back end and a plunger like device to push the material towards the back with a hatch? An idea, use a latch to keep it closed and make plunger out of wood perhaps.
Have you looked at the rocket Mass heaters. Your stove with a barrel over top 1.75-2 inch clearance, forcing expansion down and into a sand or stone mass for homes
Love the added holes at the bottom! Would it help if the riser was higher and could you fix a cooking grill on top of the riser, knowing it might be a little unstable without support?
If you weld a metal shelf to the chimney you can use it to heat your tea. You might want a screen on the chimney to reduce anything but smoke/gas from escaping.
Eoi Rob! Have you wired up a PC fan as a generator and set it into the air intake of the rocket stove? Fast strong air with a robust generator would be a steady output for electrical needs.
Awesome, I have a off grid home, a axe and shovel, with mods you can do anything with them, maybe start from scratch and have both in one , and more, cut/ chop with it, dig, heck you can even cook on it, maybe even eat off it, and about anything else, depending on design!
Very nice, I was wondering if an air tube made of half pipe that circled around the three sides and back up the Firebox would super heat your secondary air? If that doesn't do it perhaps a little bit of insulation may increase the burn as well, I made a camping stove about 20 years ago with a 3 inch exhaust pipe, inside I used a propane burner upside down on the top for the secondary superheated air Inlet, I was amazed at how well it burned, it may be time to revisit that old project LOL
I like it but what makes that stove design better than the original one you built? apart from the extra holes, which, just in my opinion seem like they would be more effective in a different place.
I wonder the effect of having the extra air holes a little higher, say 100mm from the bottom of the chimney tube. It looked like sparks or coals could come out the back.
Ultimate my behind. Your decision to place the wood entry so close to the chimney... means that there is virtual no "Burn Chamber" at all. Hence, its not burning nearly as Clean as you believe it to be.
Here’s Mate! Good luck to the Lad! Also, you gave me a wonderful idea for an outdoor heater for those cold nights that you just want to go outside and have a fire. I’ll send you a link to the video when I shoot it.
Don't forget the grill plate for the hot water pod frying pan and cooking in general, also you may want to incorporate some kind of a thermal siphon hot water pumping system so that you can keep your bed warm with heated liquid run through tubing under the mattress, or perhaps in the floor of whatever kind of off grid building your Constructing
when i was a boy, my grandfather would take me around friends of his that worked in machine shops. i knew then i wanted to work with metal, steel and iron. the smell of a machine shop is like heaven to me, we are talking 5-6-7 years old i was, this back in the mid 1970s. i took every class i could take in public school to learn all i could, metal class, welding class, lathe work class. i agree anyone can weld, with lil practice to learn pace and fell, muscle memory will take over and u will get better and better, it's like with anything, once u gain muscle memory, it's like riding a bike.
I've owned, used, etc shovels for 35 years, I've shoveled all types of media, sand, dirt, gravel, poo of all kinds, cow, chicken, rabbit, and even people, (after busting sanitary sewer laterals), never, ever, at any point, had I considered pooping on the shovel, and then flinging it. 🤣🤣🤣 Now I am kinda.... 🤔
That stove should give Luke a head start staying warm is half the battle 👍 enjoyed these Rocket Stove videos and after watching your welding intros decided to have-a-go myself but unsure if you used MIG or MMA on this ( noticed it was the Rohr machine but looked like MAA), need to order a welder along with the metal box sections, thanks again Robert.
will eventually burn itself away; why im hesistant to make one myself... as a suggestion, maybe a wire mesh & hinge at the front to prevent coals from falling out? or a catch tray?
Don't just chuck out the 10 3 2 rule for chimney. Fireplace to chimney ratio. This rule means that your chimney's shortest side needs to be at least 3 feet above the roof penetration, and its top has to be 2 feet higher than any part of the building that's within 10 feet. Can't expect the boy to live outside.
Now that it's raised on a platform you could cut the bottom tubes underside out and replace with a grid or mesh to let air in and ash out. Would that work or would that be detrimental?
Interesting but it might interfere with the dynamic of the convection . One of the characteristics is the air being drawn in and hitting the back of the upright and being a main flame point with the timber ends burning there as if they have a torch flame on them but Worth a try though . Can always weld it back up
Good luck Luke! Hope to see the video of you charging a powerblade battery bank with your rocket stove powered Stirling generators soon! 😆. Hope the stove lasts a long time and provides you with all the heat you need to have a great off grid life! (Live the dream for those who can't... Yet)
Using a shovel to fling poop hehe, no digging a hole to down to the earths core to dispose of it 😆😂🤣😂 Brilliant! I've never heard that one before : ) Go Luke!
Super cool. Have you ever thoght to add a additional gassification chamber on the backside of the chimey to produce charcoal. or to use this chamber to heat a zeolithe imersion heater (Zeolithe filled in copper pipes, for hot water without the need of a boiler)
Hey Luke ur setting off to live a dream we have all had at some point or another. Go Luke👏👏👏 I would love to do it. Sad to hear that Rob has lost his partner in crime, Batman has lost his robin😆I hope your not too far away from each other to make the odd vid together. Good luck mate. And nice work on the rocket stove rob 👍
Hey Rob, As you pretty well know, I keep messing with vegetable based oils (mainly because I have an oil extractor and its crazy cheap even new), but one thing that keeps popping up in my mind is that after a bit of time the soot will burn off clean... Could you tell me your thoughts on if built in a similar fashion as even this (I know you had an waste oil version), could the soot essentially become a form of gasification? Appreciate the content as always.
Wonderful build- radiant heat for the homesteader, wanting to keep their quarters toasty in the winter time. That being said; in order to maximize the potential gasification, assuming that the goal is to consume as much of the fuel as possible, thereby releasing the maximum energy from your fuels, which will create less ash, and drastically reduce smoke, and ideally- the only thing that comes out of the chimney would be Co2 & a bit of H2o vapor. After building over 100 different variants of the overall concept, It seems to be the insulation, effectiveness level and care of installation of the insulation that ensures that the gasses are not able to escape from the chamber without ignition. I have come to focus on the concentration of the heat energy being released from the smallest possible point at the top of the line. A tube within a cylinder, whereas -the air intake from the opening between the two is ideal,, and should match your original fuel to air ratio and combustion equation with relation to the measurements. This allows any stray (lighter than air) gasses to re-enter the main combustion chamber along with fresh oxygen which is heated as the vacuum created pre heats, dries and expands the air intake as it forces it down, which creates positive, relatively consistent pressure for auto ignition of available oxygen/hydrocarbons, etc. Assuming again, that a massively awesome roaring loud (rocket)jet of blue bottom ultraviolet flame shooting a meter out the top of the line, is what you have in mind. My most recent, and undoubtedly the most effective Insulating material by far? A mixture of shop-made sodium silicate(silica gel kitty litter no dye and pure sodium hydroxide crystals), (very safely shredded in old 2000w vitamix) blenderized ceramic fiber, chopped 48k x 10mm carbon fiber tow, chopped 10mm Kevlar tow, Q-cell (10 nm quartz microspheres used in sail boat building and surfboard repair) cornstarch and confectioners sugar (carbon) oxidized and washed graphites, alum powder and finally an olivine/peridot rich blue clay I make from lava-tube stalagmites in the ball mill, ( freshly erupted back yard in Leilani Estates on the big island of Hawaii) I chop the top off and use the aforementioned mucus mud to fill up one third-between an old steel 100lb propane tank, or large steel water pressurizing tank with a thick walled 100-200mm diameter steel pipe (salvaged from a sugar cane era steam engine train) welded to the bottom of the cylinder. After it’s filled about a third of the way up, I weld the top of the cylinder to the rim of the pipe, welded 6, 1/2” black iron threaded fittings around the top of the outer cylinder and then jammed the fittings with pinky-thick green bamboo the full length of the cylinder. Next, cut out the inner diameter of the internal pipe-out of the outer cylinder- ran another weld bead around it to clean up the mess I made trying to blind weld it from outside in my first attempt, grinder, sander clean up. Capped the black iron fittings and tipped the whole thing on its side, rolled it around on the driveway for a while to mix it up (the muck separates after a while)un Capped 4 of fittings- plumbed them all into a 1” pipe, reduced back down to 1/2” - plumbed them to a catch bucket and turned on the 2stage vacuum pump… opened the valve, jammed up the inner pipe with hardwood charcoal and a small box of mothballs. Used a brazing torch to get it burning and used my electric leaf blower to stoke. 😅 if you have read this far you’ll likely be able to infer the result. For lack of a better way to say it- it sounds like a jet taking off of an aircraft carrier. Once it’s warmed up (white hot) it will melt alllllllmooost- anything I (you) have to test out. Insulation is the key. (Warning) I am still working on growing my eyebrows back. Thanks for being awesome. Good luck going off grid!
It is a bad present. Luke needs a rocket mass heater instead. I use something like yours to make biochar in a loose stainless steel retort. My stove is mounted on a skateboard which I can position under a suspended chimney to adjust the draw. The burn is difficult to control and you have loose bits in your fuel, you get embers blown out which can burn down your yurt.
What would happen if you put more holes higher up in the chimney? Would you get more of a secondary burn? Less smoke??? Hotter exhaust? I would also add a grate on top for a pot or pan for cooking assuming you have the base stable enough given the height...
Whoa, GO LUKE! I did it for 3 years, if any advice is needed then please do shout. I expect he'll do much better than I did though lol Especially with a nice stove like that.
My main observation is that yurts are NOT designed to be sedentary nor to take the constant rain of this country. They are meant to be taken-down and cleaned/maintained once a month or-so and while they can deal with extreme cold it is dry cold not rain and mud etc. Which the entire extended family all do together. A couple of layers of Tyvek housewrap in between the outer canvas and the inner insulation layer (which is inch-thick animal felt) was very useful. But personally, I would now go with straw-bales for a wall and cob or lime-strengthened cob or something of that ilk.
Another point, is that this kind of "primitive"-modern living is not yet a happy mixture. In the past one was part of a larger community or a nuclear extended family. So you could go-out all day to work or hunt etc and come-back to find the fire is still nicely roaring, wood has been cut and stacked, water is boiling... and you could return the favour for your neighbour.
This doesn't work if you are on your own as I was. So some thinking is needed to overcome all the extra time for those little jobs that keep one warm and fed and morale high.
Also, you WILL get some kind of rodent at some stage. Hopefully mice. Be ready for that. If you use a raised platform to put it on, you can get rats living underneath it, but if you don't do that then you get damp coming-up through the floor. Perhaps a raised platform and filled with gravel or sand etc might be a solution.
The absolute best of luck to Luke on this adventure, I am rather jealous!
I live in Alaska. I heated a 600 sq. foot room for two winters with what's basically a large homebuilt rocket stove. Three immediate changes I had to make. 1) External air intake. Air sucked from inside the room must be replaced by air from outside the room. Which is c-c-cold air. 2) Larger wood capacity, else one spends all one's time feeding the dratted thing. And 3) External venting of flue gasses. Else it will kill you.
PS - I now own a pellet stove. It's only a (roughly) gazillion times better.
did you consider building a rocket mass heater instead (it stores thermal mass and you don't need to keep the fire alight all the time)?
@@barnabyvonrudal1 Thought about it a LOT. But the area I had available for the stove wouldn't support much more weight, and I'd increased to almost 1000 sq feet of living space over the summer 'construction season'. Just went with a pellet stove.
@@markbothum4338 oh yeah right. I saw a video where they added a thick concrete slab to support the weight
I your "pellet stove" a rocket stove with a hopper?
@@freeman6147 No hopper. Old propane tank that I modified. Eventually became such a pain in the ass that I bought an actual commercial pellet stove from Lowes, and I love it. So much better, and my existing chimney and air intake were easily adjusted to fit it.
Quick & easy functional design, a great inspiration and basis on which to add improvements or features as needed or desired.
For instance, having the bottom on hinges too, to instantly collect the ashes into a bottom tray.
A cylindrical chimney might work better to form a coil of copper all around it, etc.
Alternatively, a piece of channel of internal dimensions of the 100x100 slid into the lower tube. Just slide it out to empty the ashes.
Gotta be honest. I find the information very helpful and incredibly broad. But your enjoyment of the process of creation and discovery is what I enjoy almost as much as the info itself.
oh wow - cheers mate
Wish you well in your off grid adventures! Look forward to the updates!
Thank you mate! New playlist on its way lol.😁
Great piece of work!
Perhaps an alternative is to use a round chimney. Then it is easier to twist a copper tube around it and feed water through to produce hot water😊
It also makes for smoother air flow and less likely to cause turbulence. I know making these things out of square stock is easier to weld and stable by itself but makes for a less efficient design.
@@SilvaDreams why wouldn"t you want turbulences in a burn chamber. This is exactly what you want.
@@michbushi No, you don't because that causes hot or cold spots and unburnt gases/fuel. You want a smooth even air flow so everything both combusts fully and reduces or eliminates build up on your exhaust.
I did 2 years off grid in a static caravan, I had a stove made from an old gas cannister, took the WiFi from our local pub using a dongle and an old colander - it's all about the focal point! Best of luck to u Luke!
A nice fire that is Rob, nice clean chimney during the burn!
cheers mate
A pre heat tube to your holes on the 800 upright will be better
I've seen a lot of rocket stove designs, that's a beauty. So simple, it's elegant.
A few Peltier devices, and Luke could have enough electricity to light an led lamp in his shack out the back ;)
couple of peltiers, and like the biolite stove you can charge your phone
You are such a wonderful man. And so very brilliant at what you do.
Fantastic present Robert well done mate we love watching your channel thanks for sharing
I made one basically the same and had a beer keg on its side on the top as an oven . Just cut the top out as a square and put a hinge on . I had potato size rocks in it to diffuse the heat and cooked pizza and all sorts in it . Even a cob of bread too. In hind site I would leave the keg upright and cut a door in the side .
Hi there, any chance you did a video of what you describe in your comment? I would love to see that video if you did. Well done.
@@michealroche1931 hi there . That was over 10 years ago . Its not hard to imagine the flame going up and hitting the bottom of a keg . You have to put rocks in though otherwise it gets way to hot in there .
Onya Luke for the decision to go off grid. If you are using the rocket stove inside, put a spherical stainless steel grill over the chimney to act as a spark arrestor. If it is large enough it should not impinge on draw characteristics. Great job lads!
Brilliant job. Good idea buying the majority of the steel cut to size, saved a lot of work. Tony
This is great. I'd probably add a little stove top above the fire and definitely the sand battery/boiler pipe around the chimney. What would be great for that though, would be a removable sand battery - so if he finishes working outside with it, he can transfer some of the heat back into his living area like a super charged hot water bottle... but with a box of sand.
Also depending on location you could install an air pipe that draws from outside air (low end) and feeds past the chimney into the hut itself (high end) and the heating of the air will cause it to draw. Fairly sure you could get a lot of heating from that which would otherwise go to waste.
GREAT LITTLE PROTECTS ... EXELENT & EFFICIENT for CAMPING & EMERGENCY !!! THANKS for SHARING 🙂‼️
Total burn! And it's cute! That's it. I'm learning to weld ...
Have you tried to mount the Catalytic Converter to the chimney to get more heat?
The rocket stove is designed to get lots of heat and airflow helping burn all the fuel. A catalytic converter is only needed if you have unburned fuel, typically seen as smoke and soot.
Get lots of air into you stove for a clean burn and avoid adding demand for illegally harvested catalytic converters.
Robert, you're the ideal neighbor. Wish you were living next door to me. Saturday afternoons would be a blast. Now I have to go source some square steel tubing...Thanks, man!
Great video, thanks for the upload. For anyone trying to weld for the first time, one small tip make lots tacks along or around the piece your working on to stop it warping.
Great tip!
Looking good. And good luck to Luke. A hinged plate on the front feed with a damper would be a good addition; so the stove doesn't have to always run at the maximum rate.
good idea - cheers mate
Did exactly the same in my youth… good lad, Luke.
For the living area a pot belly stove made from a calor bottle and a manhole cover top to cook on is hard to beat if it’s a small space.
Brilliant man love watching and learning ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
A great rocket stove ! Incorporating a 1/4 " steel plate as a hotplate for cooking on would be useful 👍🙂
Great to see someone having such fun from creating something useful 👏👏👏
Good luck to you Luke! Always wanted to wander off and build off grid, but it's a distant dream for now. Look forward to seeing your videos on the process.🍻
A fire blanket on an old umbrella frame would be a great canopy for that stove for sure!
How do you clean the ash and whatnot out after a few burns?
I think I would make a simple flat edge rake.
You do have a point on the welding. In my experience, you should have soldering experience prior to welding. The point on that is once you are used to making the connections clean prior to making a heated metal connection, you already have one of the most important habbits for both. It will be a poor weld with soiled metal to metal without that habit of cleaning where the connection is. It definitly looked like really good welds with your experience, keep it up and keep experimenting!
Thank you! Great stuff!
Good luck Luke, will be following you with interest.
What I love about this design is, it's inconspicuous. You can be burning wood/fuel and staying warm, and nobody can 'see' or find you, from the smoke, because there is none!
How do you deal with the waste? Once fitted up to something you will need the ability to disconnect auxiliary systems to handle the stove to empty the leftovers, perhaps a cut out section you can slide to access the burn section.
Maybe a drop shoot up the back end and a plunger like device to push the material towards the back with a hatch? An idea, use a latch to keep it closed and make plunger out of wood perhaps.
love robert and lukes videos so much! please never stop
Nice one Luke. This must be like when Marty parts ways with Doc Brown. All the best
wonderfull
Putting a heat collector on this would be great maybe with a fan IDK but they work great on wood stove
Have you looked at the rocket Mass heaters. Your stove with a barrel over top 1.75-2 inch clearance, forcing expansion down and into a sand or stone mass for homes
welding, easy to do, hard to do right ;)
yep
Well done to Luke and good luck.
A grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't...
Love the video, thank you. Wishing you all the best Luke on your new adventure ❤
It needs somewhere to cook on, either behind the sloped feed tube or up top over the chimney.
Burns grate (great) 🤣👍
Love the added holes at the bottom! Would it help if the riser was higher and could you fix a cooking grill on top of the riser, knowing it might be a little unstable without support?
I am jealous Luke. Great design Rob! Love those things.
2 questions. 1. You mentioned burning pellets. Would they need a screen to control the feed rate? 2. Could you give an opinion on ammo can oil stoves?
Any problems with ash build up? In some rocket stoves I've seen a grill on the bottom for the ash to fall through
You're an Awesome Man, Robert!!!😁👍🏻
He looks a right happy chappie! Well done :)
Your stove doesn't form a vortex, it can be achieved by directing the air in to one side of the feed, this leads to better heat and burn 🔥 😎
Very nice!! This looks very efficient.
Luke you go for it bud.. take care mate.. kudos ✌️
If you weld a metal shelf to the chimney you can use it to heat your tea. You might want a screen on the chimney to reduce anything but smoke/gas from escaping.
cheers mate
Eoi Rob!
Have you wired up a PC fan as a generator and set it into the air intake of the rocket stove? Fast strong air with a robust generator would be a steady output for electrical needs.
Awesome, I have a off grid home, a axe and shovel, with mods you can do anything with them, maybe start from scratch and have both in one , and more, cut/ chop with it, dig, heck you can even cook on it, maybe even eat off it, and about anything else, depending on design!
they are two of the most useful tools mate!
Very nice, I was wondering if an air tube made of half pipe that circled around the three sides and back up the Firebox would super heat your secondary air? If that doesn't do it perhaps a little bit of insulation may increase the burn as well, I made a camping stove about 20 years ago with a 3 inch exhaust pipe, inside I used a propane burner upside down on the top for the secondary superheated air Inlet, I was amazed at how well it burned, it may be time to revisit that old project LOL
do a video mate - do a video ! - I would love to see
I like it but what makes that stove design better than the original one you built? apart from the extra holes, which, just in my opinion seem like they would be more effective in a different place.
This is a great way to save money over winter with the inflation issue! Please don't suffocate yourself!
Need that Sterling engine on there for a fan
No electric bill no water bill no heat bill for over 6 years now you go Luke....
Good luck Luke!
I wonder the effect of having the extra air holes a little higher, say 100mm from the bottom of the chimney tube. It looked like sparks or coals could come out the back.
Ultimate my behind. Your decision to place the wood entry so close to the chimney... means that there is virtual no "Burn Chamber" at all. Hence, its not burning nearly as Clean as you believe it to be.
Here’s Mate! Good luck to the Lad! Also, you gave me a wonderful idea for an outdoor heater for those cold nights that you just want to go outside and have a fire.
I’ll send you a link to the video when I shoot it.
awesome mate - please do
Awesome. Go for it Luke. When you're out in the bush Luke, maybe make a battery to run LEDs for lighting. Good luck mate :)
Don't forget the grill plate for the hot water pod frying pan and cooking in general, also you may want to incorporate some kind of a thermal siphon hot water pumping system so that you can keep your bed warm with heated liquid run through tubing under the mattress, or perhaps in the floor of whatever kind of off grid building your Constructing
nice suggestions mate - cheers
Excellent video as always! Thanks for the tutorial & best of luck Luke! :)
A thick flat slab of steel between the hopper and the up pipe would make a nice hot plate
Farley and son with a great relationship!
Great present 👏🎉
cheers mate
when i was a boy, my grandfather would take me around friends of his that worked in machine shops. i knew then i wanted to work with metal, steel and iron. the smell of a machine shop is like heaven to me, we are talking 5-6-7 years old i was, this back in the mid 1970s. i took every class i could take in public school to learn all i could, metal class, welding class, lathe work class. i agree anyone can weld, with lil practice to learn pace and fell, muscle memory will take over and u will get better and better, it's like with anything, once u gain muscle memory, it's like riding a bike.
Is there any mileage in incorporating a mantle in the chimney perhaps with some kind of door or shield to close it when not required?
I've owned, used, etc shovels for 35 years, I've shoveled all types of media, sand, dirt, gravel, poo of all kinds, cow, chicken, rabbit, and even people, (after busting sanitary sewer laterals), never, ever, at any point, had I considered pooping on the shovel, and then flinging it. 🤣🤣🤣 Now I am kinda.... 🤔
lolol -it solves a problem mate - the easy way lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering 😆
That stove should give Luke a head start staying warm is half the battle 👍 enjoyed these Rocket Stove videos and after watching your welding intros decided to have-a-go myself but unsure if you used MIG or MMA on this ( noticed it was the Rohr machine but looked like MAA), need to order a welder along with the metal box sections, thanks again Robert.
I used MMA mate - I try to do it in a way I think the most folks can replicate as possible
Cheers for the reply
Beautiful!
will eventually burn itself away; why im hesistant to make one myself... as a suggestion, maybe a wire mesh & hinge at the front to prevent coals from falling out? or a catch tray?
Don't just chuck out the 10 3 2 rule for chimney.
Fireplace to chimney ratio.
This rule means that your chimney's shortest side needs to be at least 3 feet above the roof penetration, and its top has to be 2 feet higher than any part of the building that's within 10 feet.
Can't expect the boy to live outside.
cheers mate
Now that it's raised on a platform you could cut the bottom tubes underside out and replace with a grid or mesh to let air in and ash out. Would that work or would that be detrimental?
Interesting but it might interfere with the dynamic of the convection . One of the characteristics is the air being drawn in and hitting the back of the upright and being a main flame point with the timber ends burning there as if they have a torch flame on them but Worth a try though . Can always weld it back up
Ash pan should not leak air, or very little air.
So can this just exhaust into the room that you are heating?
check out video 1728 playing with fire
Happy camping Luke..
Go....(sorry lots of wind)....goo...(more wind)....good video
Good luck Luke! Hope to see the video of you charging a powerblade battery bank with your rocket stove powered Stirling generators soon! 😆. Hope the stove lasts a long time and provides you with all the heat you need to have a great off grid life! (Live the dream for those who can't... Yet)
I am really looking forward to it mate - thanks for taking the time to post and say that - all the best, Luke
Hey, that is exciting Luke. Looking forward to the videos. Nice stove!
Good luck, Luke, stay safe
cheers mate
Using a shovel to fling poop hehe, no digging a hole to down to the earths core to dispose of it 😆😂🤣😂 Brilliant! I've never heard that one before : ) Go Luke!
Put some "Crenels" at the top of the tower. Then you can put a pot on it to cook.
Super cool.
Have you ever thoght to add a additional gassification chamber on the backside of the chimey to produce charcoal. or to use this chamber to heat a zeolithe imersion heater (Zeolithe filled in copper pipes, for hot water without the need of a boiler)
Enjoy your off grid location Luke
Hey Luke ur setting off to live a dream we have all had at some point or another.
Go Luke👏👏👏 I would love to do it. Sad to hear that Rob has lost his partner in crime,
Batman has lost his robin😆I hope your not too far away from each other to make the odd vid together. Good luck mate. And nice work on the rocket stove rob 👍
cheers mate and he isn't going that far !
Have you got a link to his channel please? I'd like to follow 😊
The two of you are like, "Breaking Good", "Breaking Bad" flipped over.
Robert Murray-Smith : Luke
::
Walter White : Jesse
what a cool gift!
Hey Rob, As you pretty well know, I keep messing with vegetable based oils (mainly because I have an oil extractor and its crazy cheap even new), but one thing that keeps popping up in my mind is that after a bit of time the soot will burn off clean... Could you tell me your thoughts on if built in a similar fashion as even this (I know you had an waste oil version), could the soot essentially become a form of gasification? Appreciate the content as always.
I used to run a metal melting furnace using veg oil. It only sooted if it wasn’t getting enough air. A blower is required.
If you wanted to use the stove in a closed building obviously it would need a chimney of some kind, would that affect its performance?
Imagine a rocket stove and a sand battery combined.
@Rob I can see just how effective it is to start and heat... my question is, how easy is it to shut off and cooled?
it's like any fire mate - there is no off switch - you have to wait until it burns out
I'm wondering how well the design would work if it was made of clay.
Would a 100 mm square gasifier atop the chimney capture and lessen even more exiting gasses?
Wonderful build- radiant heat for the homesteader, wanting to keep their quarters toasty in the winter time. That being said; in order to maximize the potential gasification, assuming that the goal is to consume as much of the fuel as possible, thereby releasing the maximum energy from your fuels, which will create less ash, and drastically reduce smoke, and ideally- the only thing that comes out of the chimney would be Co2 & a bit of H2o vapor. After building over 100 different variants of the overall concept, It seems to be the insulation, effectiveness level and care of installation of the insulation that ensures that the gasses are not able to escape from the chamber without ignition. I have come to focus on the concentration of the heat energy being released from the smallest possible point at the top of the line. A tube within a cylinder, whereas -the air intake from the opening between the two is ideal,, and should match your original fuel to air ratio and combustion equation with relation to the measurements. This allows any stray (lighter than air) gasses to re-enter the main combustion chamber along with fresh oxygen which is heated as the vacuum created pre heats, dries and expands the air intake as it forces it down, which creates positive, relatively consistent pressure for auto ignition of available oxygen/hydrocarbons, etc. Assuming again, that a massively awesome roaring loud (rocket)jet of blue bottom ultraviolet flame shooting a meter out the top of the line, is what you have in mind. My most recent, and undoubtedly the most effective Insulating material by far? A mixture of shop-made sodium silicate(silica gel kitty litter no dye and pure sodium hydroxide crystals), (very safely shredded in old 2000w vitamix) blenderized ceramic fiber, chopped 48k x 10mm carbon fiber tow, chopped 10mm Kevlar tow, Q-cell (10 nm quartz microspheres used in sail boat building and surfboard repair) cornstarch and confectioners sugar (carbon) oxidized and washed graphites, alum powder and finally an olivine/peridot rich blue clay I make from lava-tube stalagmites in the ball mill, ( freshly erupted back yard in Leilani Estates on the big island of Hawaii) I chop the top off and use the aforementioned mucus mud to fill up one third-between an old steel 100lb propane tank, or large steel water pressurizing tank with a thick walled 100-200mm diameter steel pipe (salvaged from a sugar cane era steam engine train) welded to the bottom of the cylinder. After it’s filled about a third of the way up, I weld the top of the cylinder to the rim of the pipe, welded 6, 1/2” black iron threaded fittings around the top of the outer cylinder and then jammed the fittings with pinky-thick green bamboo the full length of the cylinder. Next, cut out the inner diameter of the internal pipe-out of the outer cylinder- ran another weld bead around it to clean up the mess I made trying to blind weld it from outside in my first attempt, grinder, sander clean up. Capped the black iron fittings and tipped the whole thing on its side, rolled it around on the driveway for a while to mix it up (the muck separates after a while)un Capped 4 of fittings- plumbed them all into a 1” pipe, reduced back down to 1/2” - plumbed them to a catch bucket and turned on the 2stage vacuum pump… opened the valve, jammed up the inner pipe with hardwood charcoal and a small box of mothballs. Used a brazing torch to get it burning and used my electric leaf blower to stoke. 😅 if you have read this far you’ll likely be able to infer the result. For lack of a better way to say it- it sounds like a jet taking off of an aircraft carrier. Once it’s warmed up (white hot) it will melt alllllllmooost- anything I (you) have to test out. Insulation is the key. (Warning) I am still working on growing my eyebrows back. Thanks for being awesome. Good luck going off grid!
Not sure why the recipe has a line through it…?
It is a bad present. Luke needs a rocket mass heater instead. I use something like yours to make biochar in a loose stainless steel retort. My stove is mounted on a skateboard which I can position under a suspended chimney to adjust the draw. The burn is difficult to control and you have loose bits in your fuel, you get embers blown out which can burn down your yurt.
What would happen if you put more holes higher up in the chimney? Would you get more of a secondary burn? Less smoke??? Hotter exhaust? I would also add a grate on top for a pot or pan for cooking assuming you have the base stable enough given the height...
not a lot mate - you can over do it