If i can ask for your expert opinion. Im adding 1 quart every 300 or 400 miles. I thought most was going into the turbo from the pcv. Replaced pcv. Long term Fuel trims are around + 10 or 14,,, + or - 2 stft. Up in rpm on highway fuel trims correct And stablize which acts like a vacuum leak to me. It pulls fuel quickly to correct at wot. Maf is at around 2 g/s in park but goes up to 4 g/s in gear which seems normal. I dont see oil spots is what im getting to and dont think its my rms. Car doesnt smoke on start up but does puff a tiny bit when warm and taking off after sitting at a red light quickly. Most of the time i dont see any smoke. Egt before cat gets as high as 1400 under load but sits around 800 at idle and 1000 crusing. You have more experience than i ever will most likely so any input is appreciated. I need to scope the cylinders, plugs came out with hard deposits but dry. Boost hits spec most of the time, it does build 1 or 2 psi when it does not call for it when taking off and smoke happens. I suppected the turbo bearings leaming oil at first because of the amount of oil in the inter cooler but im unsure now. No engine codes at all
@@NaptownTuner thanks, i assumed so. Just used to not being able to see behind me if this much oil is consumed. The catalytic converter audi used is doing its job over time
The je fordged pistons are looking budget friendly. They list wrist pin at 22mm i thought they were 21 or 23. I'll have to pull mine and measure it or call audi and see if i can get build specs or any info if they have updated them. So there are 3 options for wrist oin size?
Mine is a 2012 with a build date of 2011. I doubt audi even knows the pistons used in it. History of the car pulled up that it had an engine replaced in 2018, idk if that was a carfax type report or if that was dealer info
How well does penetrating oil work with rusted parts? I can't get my second lamba/oxygen sensor out, and don't want to round off the bolt. Already got special tools for it like a stubby lambda key. Tried it when it was hot, and after cooling down ..... used penetrating oil but without success.
Sometimes if you heat it first it can help suck the oil down into the threads but usually it’s impossible to get the oil into the threads if you have zero movement at first
Have you ever replaced piston rings without replacing pistons? I can get Hastings rings, gaskets and everything i need for like 200 bucks if i can get the pistons clean. I assume soaking in some b12 or bg epr would soften the carbon and a guitar string or similar would clean oil holes
The coating on the piston skirts and general wear of the pistons to cylinder makes it worth it to buy new updated oem pistons. I have used hasting rings and I no longer do. I always spend the money for new oem pistons or new forged pistons.
@@NaptownTuner im assuming there is a reason for that and you has issues 😕 the video i just watched of you cleaning and reinstalling didnt last as long as you had hoped? Did you have to file the ring gaps when you did use Hastings rings
@@NaptownTuner so something like genuine pistons from parts geek with rings for 269 each. Some places list the audi ring set for almost 300 per piston.
Wow you’re parts picking for everything.. I can use that Alternator from that golf.. any B8’s in there? Wow great technique on that belt being there to hold the pulley .. do you need a Nissan WP pulley?
@@NaptownTuner cool junkyard.. lots of fairly new stuff.. I like these random tech tip videos.. steel and aluminum love to bond.. I could use some more B8 suspension videos on the upper and lower control arms .. I have quick jacks in my garage so it only gives me about 30” underneath to work, which is plenty but I don’t want to lower it from there to put the bushings on a load then I won’t be able to get under to torque those bolts.. with my Audi on the lift should I floor jack with spacers under the knuckle to get the control arms at ride level to torque the bushings? How much lift on the knuckle is enough? Do I need to get the control arm level? I haven’t done this project yet I just got the car up on the lift, should I drop it down fully load the suspension and mark with a sharpie the control arms to the subframe so I know how much to lift the knuckle to simulate it being on the floor? Not sure how to load the suspension here to still physically work under the car that front lower arm bushing is hard to get to from the wheel well
I would just load the suspension until it starts to move the vehicle up so basically fully loaded, there might be different opinions but most people working on other peoples cars probably don’t do anything and just let it hang and reverse load the bushing incorrectly.
@@NaptownTuner cool.. ok some I’m thinking with a 4”x4” like 15” long on my floorjack I can lift under the two front ball joints on the knuckle to lift it fully.. I think that would work .. just bought full suspension kit from FCP and I don’t want to have these arm fail early from not torquing them as designed.. great idea.. appreciate all your genius dude
If i can ask for your expert opinion. Im adding 1 quart every 300 or 400 miles. I thought most was going into the turbo from the pcv. Replaced pcv. Long term Fuel trims are around + 10 or 14,,, + or - 2 stft. Up in rpm on highway fuel trims correct And stablize which acts like a vacuum leak to me. It pulls fuel quickly to correct at wot. Maf is at around 2 g/s in park but goes up to 4 g/s in gear which seems normal. I dont see oil spots is what im getting to and dont think its my rms. Car doesnt smoke on start up but does puff a tiny bit when warm and taking off after sitting at a red light quickly. Most of the time i dont see any smoke. Egt before cat gets as high as 1400 under load but sits around 800 at idle and 1000 crusing. You have more experience than i ever will most likely so any input is appreciated. I need to scope the cylinders, plugs came out with hard deposits but dry. Boost hits spec most of the time, it does build 1 or 2 psi when it does not call for it when taking off and smoke happens. I suppected the turbo bearings leaming oil at first because of the amount of oil in the inter cooler but im unsure now. No engine codes at all
Needs pistons replaced
@@NaptownTuner thanks, i assumed so. Just used to not being able to see behind me if this much oil is consumed. The catalytic converter audi used is doing its job over time
The je fordged pistons are looking budget friendly. They list wrist pin at 22mm i thought they were 21 or 23. I'll have to pull mine and measure it or call audi and see if i can get build specs or any info if they have updated them. So there are 3 options for wrist oin size?
@@TOLDyouSOagain you can get them is 21 generally 2012+ has 23mm rods
Mine is a 2012 with a build date of 2011. I doubt audi even knows the pistons used in it. History of the car pulled up that it had an engine replaced in 2018, idk if that was a carfax type report or if that was dealer info
How well does penetrating oil work with rusted parts?
I can't get my second lamba/oxygen sensor out, and don't want to round off the bolt.
Already got special tools for it like a stubby lambda key.
Tried it when it was hot, and after cooling down ..... used penetrating oil but without success.
Sometimes if you heat it first it can help suck the oil down into the threads but usually it’s impossible to get the oil into the threads if you have zero movement at first
Maybe just unbolt the whole pump and that gives you access to hit it from behind with a hammer while turning it?
Then you would need to hold it in a vise, I think it’s easier to remove still bolted to the engine
Have you ever replaced piston rings without replacing pistons? I can get Hastings rings, gaskets and everything i need for like 200 bucks if i can get the pistons clean. I assume soaking in some b12 or bg epr would soften the carbon and a guitar string or similar would clean oil holes
The coating on the piston skirts and general wear of the pistons to cylinder makes it worth it to buy new updated oem pistons. I have used hasting rings and I no longer do. I always spend the money for new oem pistons or new forged pistons.
@@NaptownTuner im assuming there is a reason for that and you has issues 😕 the video i just watched of you cleaning and reinstalling didnt last as long as you had hoped? Did you have to file the ring gaps when you did use Hastings rings
@@NaptownTuner so something like genuine pistons from parts geek with rings for 269 each. Some places list the audi ring set for almost 300 per piston.
Wow you’re parts picking for everything.. I can use that Alternator from that golf.. any B8’s in there? Wow great technique on that belt being there to hold the pulley .. do you need a Nissan WP pulley?
I was just doing a random video.
@@NaptownTuner cool junkyard.. lots of fairly new stuff.. I like these random tech tip videos.. steel and aluminum love to bond.. I could use some more B8 suspension videos on the upper and lower control arms .. I have quick jacks in my garage so it only gives me about 30” underneath to work, which is plenty but I don’t want to lower it from there to put the bushings on a load then I won’t be able to get under to torque those bolts.. with my Audi on the lift should I floor jack with spacers under the knuckle to get the control arms at ride level to torque the bushings? How much lift on the knuckle is enough? Do I need to get the control arm level? I haven’t done this project yet I just got the car up on the lift, should I drop it down fully load the suspension and mark with a sharpie the control arms to the subframe so I know how much to lift the knuckle to simulate it being on the floor? Not sure how to load the suspension here to still physically work under the car that front lower arm bushing is hard to get to from the wheel well
I would just load the suspension until it starts to move the vehicle up so basically fully loaded, there might be different opinions but most people working on other peoples cars probably don’t do anything and just let it hang and reverse load the bushing incorrectly.
@@NaptownTuner cool.. ok some I’m thinking with a 4”x4” like 15” long on my floorjack I can lift under the two front ball joints on the knuckle to lift it fully.. I think that would work .. just bought full suspension kit from FCP and I don’t want to have these arm fail early from not torquing them as designed.. great idea.. appreciate all your genius dude
Got any spare fsi engine cylinder head? Plllllz
Don’t have one i usually only mess with Audi tfsi heads