I’ve just fitted the Redshift stem (regular), bars (no loop), top and drop grips with the extra long bar tape a few weeks ago. I have to agree that the drop grips are fantastic, making riding the drops so much more comfortable than ever. I’m not so sure about the top grips though. They make it so bulky and I prefer to be able to grip round the bars. The stem is as you say, very subtle. Shame they don’t do a 42cm bar, but may see if I can find an equivalent set of bars at my optimum width that also have a 25 degree flare that can also accommodate the drop grips.
Great video as always. I use the full redshift set up on my gravel bike and my drop bar MTB, stem, bars, seat post and grips. Interesting that you have your bar end grips set up fairly flat. I didn't get on with them set up like this so rotated them upwards. Made a huge difference and love them. Agree fully on your bar comments. I have both versions and use the loop version on my drop bar MTB as this is set up for more challenging off road and load carrying. Also, I use the route weeks bar bag on my gravel bike and the loop stops this opening so no brainer there! Can't recommend redshift stuff highly enough. Game changer
Ah now that rotation thing is interesting. If you look at the Moray Gravel videos, the hoods are higher on the curve. It was the bike fitter who advised me to flatten them out, which I did later for this video. Still to do a multi-day trip with them like this.
Simon as you say very personal choice. My vote would be the bars without the loop because if you want you can add a set of aero bars later and that lets you add a certain amount of other tech / lights etc. Yes more expensive I guess but you can take them off. Thanks for this vid very helpful in making my upgrade choices to my bike.
Thanks for making me dream awake. I love your videos with all that information, landscapes, gadgets, etc. Unfortunately in Mexico we don’t have all that equipment (or at least not me) Greetings!!
I have the latest Sonder Camino which I love and I decided to give the bomber bars a fair go but after 6 months I reached same conclusion that you did and have just spent this afternoon putting the redshift bars without the extra bit on my bike with the tops and bottom grip set. Will be interesting to see how comfy this set up is. Also I went for the 470 bars , my shoulders are 460 so the hoods are pretty much spot on.
I have often wondered the advantages of splayed handle bars and they are a bit like cranked kayak paddles (I love cranked paddles where as hubby hates them). It’s hard to know what will feel comfortable for you as each individual is different. The end grips do look like a great idea, especially for longer rides. Thanks again Simon for a really informative video 👍
I originally bought a pair of flared On One bars, £15, as a tester. I've now got the Ritchey Beacon's. Same kinda flare but a very short drop, gives great confidence when transitioning between top and drop on say a rough descent. Recommended.
Coming from mountain biking, I added 16 degree flared bars to my gravel bike and never looked back. Narrow enough for the tree gaps on tight single track but wide in the drops for confidence and control.
Great video as always Simon. I originally bought the 50cm with loop and returned them for the 47cm without the loop and I don't miss the loop at all. However, I'm wondering if the 47's are still too wide for me as I'm getting numb hands. My original road bars were 42cm and I was warned against getting wider bars. I also have both cruise control grips and the shockstop stem and seatpost. I'm 6 foot 2 and quite a solid build but still think they may be too wide for me. MY bike is a Cannondale Topstone gravel bike size L. Do you think this is the case? Any advice appreciated, many thanks, Paul.
Hey Paul - numb hands can be a whole range of things, and usually a combination of them, and bar-width is just part of it. Take a look at this video and see if it helps. ua-cam.com/video/_zSd1tjmtRI/v-deo.html I've had a bike fit with James, the guy in the video, and he's good, helping me to get into a TT position for triathlon when the regular Retul type fit didn't help. As you'll see, it's not just a simple 'do this' to fix numb hands; unless the thing to do is go get a good bike fit. Sorry it's not super helpful.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks for the reply Simon. I follow this fella, he's quite a character. Unfortunately, I'm in the US but maybe one day I'll book a session with him.
@@quarryfield Ah ok. But the points still stand. I'd check some of the other things about position on the bike before buying too many sets of bars. That said... the 'theory' is bars shouldn't be wider than shoulders. I say 'theory' in quotes because MTB bars always are! The point though still stands - if you can take the problem to a good bike fitter, he/she might help in ways you hadn't thought about. The best of luck getting it sorted!
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks again, I ride a Brooks saddle which I've had set level and I've just tilted it back slightly, it seems to have taken some weight off my hands already. I miss the UK very much and get back as often as I can. Keep up the wonderful videos, you put so much work into them and they are hugely appreciated. Cheers, Paul.
Great video as always - if yiu had the standard redshift stem would yiu upgrade to the pro? Would you use the same width bars as your road bike. Thanks
No and yes 😁. If you have the regular stem then the difference in weight is too little (for me) to notice. I'd stick with what I had. I'd go with the same bar width as my road bike BUT I like narrow bars on my gravel bike. If you prefer a wider, MTB type position for your hands, for control and balance, then go with wider bars. Really, it's a very personal thing.
I don't get the concern over weight sans racing. My philosophy is to gear up with kit you like and is useful, then allow your body to adapt, becoming stronger and fitter to handle an extra kilo or two.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Yes, 100%. Maybe I've given up too easily on trying to keep weight down 😀👍Redshift is new to me, I like what I see from them, very innovative products! Thanks for the discovery.
It’s so very personal Dave. I was persuaded to try road bars narrower than my shoulders but didn’t like it. The 44(ish) mm road bars suit me better and I stuck with 44mm for these - works for me.
Good review. One question. What’s the distance between the top of your hoods. As the bars are flared, the hoods point inward and therefore are likely closer together. So a 44 cm bar might have hoods that are closer to a 40cm bar? Your thoughts on this would help so I can consider either the 44 cm or the 47 cm. How do you find riding on the hoods on this bar relative to regular road bar? Thanks
@@olsmxl6975 It takes a bit of getting your head around this does - I had to go out and measure. The hoods can be quite a range of distance apart depending upon what part of the drop's curve they're attached to. In the riding shots I had them quite high on the curve, too high I was later told by the bike fitter. Dropping them to the correct point, so the flat part of the bars runs into the flat part of the hoods, puts the centre of the hoods the same width apart as the bars 44mm. They're not flat as on a road bike, because the clamp that holds them to the bar is angled with the bar. But the flare on these is so gentle, I don't notice that - they feel flat - under the webbing between my thumb and finger, unlike my previous gravel bars which were much more extreme. Of course, because they're angled inwards the 'peaks' of the hoods, where all the mechanical bits are housed) are just 40cm apart, but you don't routinely hold onto them. I hope that helps with the decision.
@@olsmxl6975 The bars are 44mm because they’re measured from the forward part where they start to curve - ie where the hoods are, so it’s the same as the distance between the hoods.
I have the no loop and the grip kits. Love those bars!!
I’ve just fitted the Redshift stem (regular), bars (no loop), top and drop grips with the extra long bar tape a few weeks ago. I have to agree that the drop grips are fantastic, making riding the drops so much more comfortable than ever. I’m not so sure about the top grips though. They make it so bulky and I prefer to be able to grip round the bars. The stem is as you say, very subtle. Shame they don’t do a 42cm bar, but may see if I can find an equivalent set of bars at my optimum width that also have a 25 degree flare that can also accommodate the drop grips.
Great video as always.
I use the full redshift set up on my gravel bike and my drop bar MTB, stem, bars, seat post and grips.
Interesting that you have your bar end grips set up fairly flat. I didn't get on with them set up like this so rotated them upwards. Made a huge difference and love them.
Agree fully on your bar comments. I have both versions and use the loop version on my drop bar MTB as this is set up for more challenging off road and load carrying. Also, I use the route weeks bar bag on my gravel bike and the loop stops this opening so no brainer there!
Can't recommend redshift stuff highly enough. Game changer
Ah now that rotation thing is interesting. If you look at the Moray Gravel videos, the hoods are higher on the curve. It was the bike fitter who advised me to flatten them out, which I did later for this video. Still to do a multi-day trip with them like this.
Simon as you say very personal choice. My vote would be the bars without the loop because if you want you can add a set of aero bars later and that lets you add a certain amount of other tech / lights etc. Yes more expensive I guess but you can take them off. Thanks for this vid very helpful in making my upgrade choices to my bike.
actually if you get clip-on bars from Decathlon, it's a lot cheaper with a lot more adjustability.
Thanks for making me dream awake. I love your videos with all that information, landscapes, gadgets, etc. Unfortunately in Mexico we don’t have all that equipment (or at least not me)
Greetings!!
I do appreciate how fortunate I am. I have done some great mountain biking in your lively country a while ago.
@@alwaysanotheradventure
Wow!! That’s incredible.
Thank you!!!
Just ordered a set to try Simon I usually double wrap so will be interesting to compare. Thanks
I hope they work out as well for you Stuart as they have for me.
I have the latest Sonder Camino which I love and I decided to give the bomber bars a fair go but after 6 months I reached same conclusion that you did and have just spent this afternoon putting the redshift bars without the extra bit on my bike with the tops and bottom grip set. Will be interesting to see how comfy this set up is. Also I went for the 470 bars , my shoulders are 460 so the hoods are pretty much spot on.
I Hope they work as well for you as they have for me.
Awesome video 👍👏
I have often wondered the advantages of splayed handle bars and they are a bit like cranked kayak paddles (I love cranked paddles where as hubby hates them). It’s hard to know what will feel comfortable for you as each individual is different. The end grips do look like a great idea, especially for longer rides. Thanks again Simon for a really informative video 👍
Interesting analogy - and I'm with you on cranked paddles!
That's interesting comparing them to cranked paddles. I've a set of flared bars on the Christmas list - fingers crossed....
I originally bought a pair of flared On One bars, £15, as a tester. I've now got the Ritchey Beacon's. Same kinda flare but a very short drop, gives great confidence when transitioning between top and drop on say a rough descent. Recommended.
Coming from mountain biking, I added 16 degree flared bars to my gravel bike and never looked back. Narrow enough for the tree gaps on tight single track but wide in the drops for confidence and control.
BTW, have you tried the Gel Underlays, that are made to go underneath the bar tape on road/gravel bars? Cool stuff!
I have them on my road bike and will probably put some on this one if/when I retape it. But with the shockstop stem they’re not essential.
Great video as always Simon. I originally bought the 50cm with loop and returned them for the 47cm without the loop and I don't miss the loop at all. However, I'm wondering if the 47's are still too wide for me as I'm getting numb hands. My original road bars were 42cm and I was warned against getting wider bars. I also have both cruise control grips and the shockstop stem and seatpost. I'm 6 foot 2 and quite a solid build but still think they may be too wide for me. MY bike is a Cannondale Topstone gravel bike size L. Do you think this is the case? Any advice appreciated, many thanks, Paul.
Hey Paul - numb hands can be a whole range of things, and usually a combination of them, and bar-width is just part of it. Take a look at this video and see if it helps. ua-cam.com/video/_zSd1tjmtRI/v-deo.html I've had a bike fit with James, the guy in the video, and he's good, helping me to get into a TT position for triathlon when the regular Retul type fit didn't help. As you'll see, it's not just a simple 'do this' to fix numb hands; unless the thing to do is go get a good bike fit. Sorry it's not super helpful.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks for the reply Simon. I follow this fella, he's quite a character. Unfortunately, I'm in the US but maybe one day I'll book a session with him.
@@quarryfield Ah ok. But the points still stand. I'd check some of the other things about position on the bike before buying too many sets of bars. That said... the 'theory' is bars shouldn't be wider than shoulders. I say 'theory' in quotes because MTB bars always are! The point though still stands - if you can take the problem to a good bike fitter, he/she might help in ways you hadn't thought about. The best of luck getting it sorted!
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks again, I ride a Brooks saddle which I've had set level and I've just tilted it back slightly, it seems to have taken some weight off my hands already. I miss the UK very much and get back as often as I can. Keep up the wonderful videos, you put so much work into them and they are hugely appreciated. Cheers, Paul.
Great video as always - if yiu had the standard redshift stem would yiu upgrade to the pro? Would you use the same width bars as your road bike. Thanks
No and yes 😁. If you have the regular stem then the difference in weight is too little (for me) to notice. I'd stick with what I had. I'd go with the same bar width as my road bike BUT I like narrow bars on my gravel bike. If you prefer a wider, MTB type position for your hands, for control and balance, then go with wider bars. Really, it's a very personal thing.
I don't get the concern over weight sans racing. My philosophy is to gear up with kit you like and is useful, then allow your body to adapt, becoming stronger and fitter to handle an extra kilo or two.
And that’s great. Just my opinion and yours is different. Oh, and I’ve changed my mind. In my newer videos I back to using bars with the front loop.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Yes, 100%. Maybe I've given up too easily on trying to keep weight down 😀👍Redshift is new to me, I like what I see from them, very innovative products! Thanks for the discovery.
Any views on bar width choice compared to standard road bars? thanks
It’s so very personal Dave. I was persuaded to try road bars narrower than my shoulders but didn’t like it. The 44(ish) mm road bars suit me better and I stuck with 44mm for these - works for me.
Good review. One question. What’s the distance between the top of your hoods. As the bars are flared, the hoods point inward and therefore are likely closer together. So a 44 cm bar might have hoods that are closer to a 40cm bar? Your thoughts on this would help so I can consider either the 44 cm or the 47 cm. How do you find riding on the hoods on this bar relative to regular road bar? Thanks
@@olsmxl6975 It takes a bit of getting your head around this does - I had to go out and measure. The hoods can be quite a range of distance apart depending upon what part of the drop's curve they're attached to. In the riding shots I had them quite high on the curve, too high I was later told by the bike fitter.
Dropping them to the correct point, so the flat part of the bars runs into the flat part of the hoods, puts the centre of the hoods the same width apart as the bars 44mm. They're not flat as on a road bike, because the clamp that holds them to the bar is angled with the bar. But the flare on these is so gentle, I don't notice that - they feel flat - under the webbing between my thumb and finger, unlike my previous gravel bars which were much more extreme.
Of course, because they're angled inwards the 'peaks' of the hoods, where all the mechanical bits are housed) are just 40cm apart, but you don't routinely hold onto them.
I hope that helps with the decision.
@@alwaysanotheradventure thanks very much. Did you end up with the 47 cm or the 50 cm bars?
@@olsmxl6975 The bars are 44mm because they’re measured from the forward part where they start to curve - ie where the hoods are, so it’s the same as the distance between the hoods.
im getting the loop do u still feel the same
It comes into its own with the bag that drops into the loop. Looks a bit odd without it.
@@alwaysanotheradventure thank you, that was the part i didnt like lol was just the cost mostly
controversial I know but you and your bike look 20 years younger with no loop ......
🤣😂😂🤣 well that made my day Christopher
Odd shaped bars...
Not for me.