+BirdShot IV Thanks for watching! papercutting itself doesn't say that much for the untrained eye. If you have a lot of experience you can hear the sharpness by the sound of the paper and the smoothness of the cut but making these turns makes it more visible as you cant make a circle with a 'dull' papercutting knife
Wow, good job young man. 👍 I have the Thor and want a companion knife for it and I do believe that will work out great ! The woods here are like being in a jungle. I live in Northern Middle Tennessee. About 15 minutes from a Srate Park , Pickett State Park and a Federal Park, Big Bandy Creek Park, plus I have a hundred acres hunting ground myself. So I can live in the woods if I wanted to.
Whooow nice! So a 400 and a 8000 stone + a strop and hou do this. Nice video! I just ordered a a1xb. Gotta order those stones yet! Now i know what to order. You were feather sticking paper hahahaha
Wow! Great job on those stones bro, that's a true mirror polish! Almost too beautiful to use now ! Haha Good stuff huh? I'm in love with Cobalt Special. It's a knife sharpeners dream steel. It takes alot of skill to make such a perfect mirror polish. Again, Amazing work bro. Thanks for the video :)
+NorwegianWoods Thanks Martin! I hope to get the a1 pro end of this month. The original a1 was my favourite knife so I simply must have the pro version.
+NorwegianWoods yeah, production knives don't come much more expensive than this. this f1 was partially sponsored because im writing a review about it. But I've wanted the a1 pro from the beginning . the s1 should be best of both worlds and make a very nice allrounder
It would have been very useful to see the final stage where you actually polish it up to mirror polish... I have no idea with what magic you did that so am none the wiser.............. : \
Say Heah M&M. Yeah, I always said that the F-1 was a excellent choice to team up with my A-2. This way most all your bases would be covered. But I teamed my A-1 with my H-1 because its close to my 3V Skookum Bush Tool. Which is one of my Fav's. Even though I use this set mostly in wet and snowy conditions, We all know they can be used in any weather condition. Yeah, Fallkniven makes a Great Knife. I especially like how the two sheatgs fit together which I can carry both knives very comfortably side by side in a cross draw which is how I like to carry the two. The middle of the week its suppose to rain. So, yeah, I will be taking this set out my two A-1 and H-1 and by adding new Agawa Canyon 21 Boreal Saw in a Crazy Horse Leather Scabbard which you can shoulder carry, I also with the leather shokder straps can attach it mills to my Kodiak GearSling. No doubt this Set-Up will work great for Scouting which I really enjoy doing the most with a overnighter if I have to. So yeah, When I'm in unfamikar area's, I really depend on good gear. Fallkniven has won that Honor with ne. Especially what Peter the CEO of Fallkniven did for me on one occasion. The owner and CEO showed how good of a nan he is with his cutomers. Nobody can ever day anything wrong about Fallkniven. I know the difference because if my experience with Fallkniven.,,.
I just ordered the A1 in VG10 based on your other videos, and I know the geometry is different on the PRO series, so do you recommend keeping the secondary bevel that comes from the factory or regrind it at a more steep or shallow angle? Thank you.
Hoe krijg jij dat zo mooi gepolished? heb dit geprobeerd met verchillende leer en diamantpasta maar nooit kreeg ik het zo goed. Heb steeds wat doffere plekken. Wow
You cut the video from 8k to fully polished I'm wondering what you did. Just stropping the knife bevel flat with compound to get it to pop? Getting a mirror finish on my f1 pro like that is the holy grail that I can't seem to ever get. I have a chosera 400 Sharpton hanokurumaku 1000 2000 5000. And strop compound. Is the 2000 to 5000 too big of a jump for polishing? I have a naniwa snow white 8k in the mail (can't wait). I'm hoping with the 8k and then strop I can achieve that. If the 2k to 5k is too big ill have to get chosera 3000.
I tried and there is spots I cannot hit on my stones at any angle. Ignoring those spots and even after going thru all the grits up to 8k then trying to strop with bark river black then white or just white I cannot get that finish. The strop I have is a DLT ambush pro. There is unfortunately a rough and smooth side. I have black on rough and white on smooth. Maybe smooth aide is not good for polishing the bevel. Feels very tacky while black side on rough leather feels fantastic. Maybe that is why? I'm hoping to snatch one of your dbk paddle strop because they are both rough leather and I hate the tacky feeling of smooth. Might try using sand paper from 400 600 800 1000 etc to high grits like 6000. Can maybe get mirror like this sanding my knife same technique as water stones and can hit the spot I can't with stones. Will be a shame as I love Water stone sharpening the best. If anyone can give me feedback or advice on what I'm doing wrong with my stones and strop thanks for reading my tldr novel lol.
Hey mate, thanks a lot! CoS shines in it's balance. Easy to sharpen, takes an incredibly sharp edge and has decent edge retention. Elmax and CPM-3V have better edge retention (elmax the best but CPM-3v has more toughness). So CoS is definitely as good but in its own way.
Hey An, Different stones leave different scratch patterns. you should be good though but there is also a slight chance that the shapton might leave a cloudy finish. From experience with my shapton ha-no-kuromaku stones you'll get a nice mirror I think.
Sorry if I still break the handle of F1 normal and the Pro is different? Thermorun of the Pro and the Kraton of 'F1 normal touch are differeneti? as the dimensions are the same? I ask because qulcuno argues that the handle of normal F1 is uncomfortable and small ... is not it? Hello thanks.
both the regular f1 and the new f1 are thermorun. Only the regular A1 used kraton. I don't think the F1 handles are to short. Not in my case anyway. Kraton is a bit softer than thermorun but they feel quite the same. I also like the geometry of fallkniven handles. I have never experienced any hot spots while working with fallknivens.
Please I am asking about that because I'm going to buy an F1 pro and I want to buy the stones that you used or you can tell me a budget stones I can use to mirror polish it
+Blakehx a chisel grind is great for kitchen knives. It leaves a very clean cut. For an outdoor knife it's not so great. For a power sharpener I would recommend the work sharp by Ken union
Chille vid man!! Jullie hebben weer een sub erbij Heb vandaag de pxlx vam fallkniven binnen gekregen in lam cos dit wprd zwz de nieuwe edc voor mij (mijn eerste fallkniven)
Hey, ik vroeg mij af welke stenen je gebruikt en waar ik ze kan vinden! Dit is echt gekkenwerk! Geniaal! heb je misschien linkjes voor me waar ik ze kan kopen? Groetjes! Aron
how do you guys maintain certainty that you sharpen the blade an equal amount of times on each side, to maintain the edge in perfect center? It seams to me that you sharpen it an unequal amount of times.
Sharpening the same amount of strokes on each side is overrated. If you check out japanese knife makers or Chefs most of them won't count their strokes. Sharpening is much more about visuals and sound. The sound helps you maintain the right angle while checking the edge every now and then tells you if you're doing it right. It is wise to count your strokes if you have no experience with sharpening yet. However, with these high end steels it would take a very long time of sharpening wrong to get a noticeable effect as you only take of a little steel every time you sharpen. Even if you would sharpen each side the same amount of strokes the pressure of the hand will differ with each stroke which could also deform the edge over time. Don't worry too much about it though as you can also correct it by sharpening.
Awesome video. I just bought the S1, it is my first knife. I bought a hone and black/green compound from Bark River. I also have a DC4 stone from Fallkniven. I don't even know if this setup is ideal to produce the mirror finish because my knife looks scratched up now. Do you think it will suffice? Also, How long did it take you to complete each step? I don't know if I'm doing it long enough at each step. So far, my knife appears to be as sharp as your as i can cut curves and waves in paper as well, its just horribly scratched looking. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your advice, and keep up the good work! Love your vids!
The dc4 is a very aggressive stone. it makes a very sharp edge but can't polish a blade like japanese water stones can. The compound is too fine to bring out the polish after the dc4 scratchess. How long every step on every stone ttakes depends on the type of steel. Just make sure every next stone polishes out the scratches of the previous stone and makes a uniform scratch pattern.
So am I screwed? Did I damage my knife finish beyond repair, or do I just need to get a certain grit to get the scratches out? Any recommendations? Thanks.
SRK of COLD STEEL've tried? Easy to fine treats because they use the same Japanese-made VG1 steel and VG10 steel. Both "SANMAI steel" is the pro series of fallkniven steel of SRK, also considerably cut easy to handle in a similar steel.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives I relieved to hear it. Because it because you guys are influential. I so COLD STEEL is not is making a not worth mentioning knife, "SANMAI" is quite COOL is in. It is excellent in the rough to use. Since stainless steel because my team is the sea of work is important, A1 · A10 · ELMAX'm go up as a very good steel. It than 3V of American steel in particular is made in Japan. If absolutely stainless believe I ELMAX, is good to try to use the 5050 and 5150 FIRST EDGE.
Hello, finally I also took myself on Pro F1, I really like, I wanted to ask how do you make it so shiny? What do you use? So to sharpen with that angle you keep it on the stone? Do you think it is easier to sharpen F1 normal or Pro?
haha good to hear you finally made your decision! I use japanese water stones up to 8000 grit and after that I strop with bark river black and white compound for quite some time. I have a new video where I demonstrate. ua-cam.com/video/XIESeCvQ5ds/v-deo.html . Regular vg-10 is more easy to sharpen but CoS is still quite easy.
wow what a difference and such a beautiful edge! what are the names of the stones you used in this process? Im looking for a good set of stones. Thank you for your help
+50 Stitches Steel To sharpen this knife I used the following stones: Naniwa chosera 400 Naniwa Chosera 1000 Naniwa Chosera 3000 Shapton ha-no-kuromaku 5000 Naniwa Snow white 8000 After sharpening I stropped with Bark River white compound (12.000 grit). The chosera line has now been replaced with the professional series which deliver the same quality. Sadly the professional stones don't have a base attached. Both Naniwa chosera (professional) And shapton ha-no-kuromaku are very good stones. Don't buy the cheap stones. They are often too soft and will give you a hard time getting a good edge on a premium steel knife.
So you think this F1 Pro is really excellent as they say? It is one of the best survival knives on the market? It feels better quality than normal F1? Regrinding with stone Fallkniven DC4 is easy? the wire keeps it long? and it is suitable for abuse?
+Michele Trekkning The F1 pro is an excellent knife in my opinion. I think it's one of the better survival knives out there. I'll recieve the A1 pro within a few days. The a1 pro should be more allround for survival. I found the CoS steel to be easy to sharpen. The DC-4 can definitely do the job. It keeps a good edge and attains an incredible sharp edge after sharpening. I think this knife can have quite some abuse. However I would never cut steel or anything like that with a knife as long as I dont have to.
Michele Trekkning no, the normal f1 is an awesome knife. When you want 10% better you pay 100% more this is how it is with everything sadly. But I think it is better than the regular F1 in both steel and knife design,
please respond my stone colection is getting to be quite an investment , ? what would you prefer for some thining or reprofiling the chosera 800 which i hear is faster or should i get the 1000 which i feel might bee the way to go, appreciate response, thanks
+gunny hey Gunny, a single stone wont be much good. A 400, 1000 and 3000 stone is a perfect combination with a strop. If you're definitely only going to get one I'd personally go with the 1000 stone. It'll take a bit longer but with a strop afterwards you can shave
Hey mate, really loved this video! Sub'd! Could you tell me what was involved in the final step to get the mirror polish? Also I am looking to buy one of these beautiful knives for bushcraft. Note I can only get ONE unfortunately! Should I get the F1 Pro or S1 Pro? Thanks!
+kingcrumpet Thanks a lot ! I polished the bevel with a strop and bark river white compound. It is key to sharpen out as many scratches as possible before continuing to your next stone. The scratch marks left by the highest grit stone (8k in this case) are easily stropped out. I think the S1 pro is the most allround and gives you best of both worlds. If you only use your knife for smaller tasks and deboning i would suggest the F1.
+Gina Vergilio I polished the bevel with a strop and bark river white compound. It is key to sharpen out as many scratches as possible before continuing to your next stone. The scratch marks left by the highest grit stone (8k in this case) are easily stropped out.
+Bate Niki Hello Bate, It's very important to polish out all scratches the previous stone made with the next stone so that when you reach 8000 or 12000 grit the bevel is already very shiny. It's very hard to achieve a mirror polish with stones only on a convex grind as your angle changes when sharpening and so does the scratch pattern (you can see this on the blade before I started stropping). After polishing with the stones you can start polishing the bevel with a leather strop. You should use a high grit aggressive compound for this like the bark river white compound. The leather is soft and slightly takes the form of the bevel when polishing. This will make a uniform scratch pattern so minuscule that it will appear as a mirror. Make sure there is enough compound on the leather and prevent the leather from touching the cutting bevel (apex) as the long stropping process will 'overstrop' and dull the knife (making it too convex). You can also chose to fold a small stone like a nagura in a piece of compound loaded leather. The flat surface of the stone will give you a hard surface to rub your leather over the knife almost like a sanding block.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives Hello, thanks for the reply. I mean in your video clip around 11min 18sec you say that you will polish the knife because of the scratches...You do that with the leather strop and the white compound?
yes, the core steel of the F1 Pro is sandwiched between softer steels. These softer steels take a mirror much more easy than the core steal would. So if you did a propper polishing job on the sharpening stones up to 8k or 12k it doesn't take long to strop out all scratchess. On hard steals it can take a very long time to do (so I don't bother most of the time). If you have a knife with a small scandi-bevel like the enzo trapper it is also easy to make a nice mirror. Another method is using sandpaper up to 2000 grit to polish up the sides (don't sharpen with the paper, only polish). This will create a much more uniform scratch pattern than stones making it more easy to make a mirror. Last method could be a dremel or a buffing wheel. I wouldn't use a buffing wheel as it can be dangerous and will easily dull the bevel with the slightest mistake.
haha thats a hard question. I am really in love with elmax at this moment. Elmax is harder to sharpen but has incredible edge holding ( and i am a sucker for edge holding :D ). VG-10 is very awesome as it takes a very keen edge with minimal effort and keeps it quite long as well. However, I think CoS surpasses vg-10 and I think I will like it better than vg-10. It's hard to say after only owning this knife for a few months. Lam. CoS is very awesome either way. I don't really like 3G as it was hard to sharpen and felt a little bit chippy.
it sure is a great knife, just ordered it from knivesandtools. My benchmade mini-grip with cpm-20cv has the same sharpness, and has yet to be sharpened with a higher grit than 1200
Nice! de ulta light bushcrafter heb ik in mijn handen gehad. Niet te vergelijken met de F1 pro voor het harde werk maar wel een handig edc mesje. Ben benieuwd wat het wordt.
Mooi mesje :) en echt super licht. Ik denk niet dat er een alternatief is dat zo licht is en nog steeds full tang. Een van de stevigste mini-mesjes op de markt volgens mij.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives Theres nothing wrong with it, its one of my favourite along with Infi and Cpm-3v, but n690 does have much better corrosion resistance in wet and miserable uk lol!
Still love coming back to your old vids! Rock on.
Awesome video guys as always, I convex edge my first knife last night from flat grind, very pleased with the results!!
thnks a lot jack!
Damn that's a thick blade! Good looking fixed blade.
It is a beautiful knife. I’ve just given in and bought one myself. Because of you guys.
always be scared of a man with no hairs on his left arm, he probably carries a sharp knife
And he probably also has an annoyed wife / girlfriend because of his shaved left arm haha.
* speaking out of experience ugh
That is wise
looking forward to your take on the A1 Pro. chopping,carving and sharpening etc. Very impressive result of your sharpening on the F1 Pro. Thanks
Looks very sharp, I like the turns you show while cutting.
+BirdShot IV Thanks for watching! papercutting itself doesn't say that much for the untrained eye. If you have a lot of experience you can hear the sharpness by the sound of the paper and the smoothness of the cut but making these turns makes it more visible as you cant make a circle with a 'dull' papercutting knife
Nice video.
When you said Bark river white compound you remain me off another good sharpening guy from Japan. :)
Een toepasselijke snede bij de F1 pro, prachtig om te zien.
Wow, good job young man. 👍 I have the Thor and want a companion knife for it and I do believe that will work out great ! The woods here are like being in a jungle. I live in Northern Middle Tennessee. About 15 minutes from a Srate Park , Pickett State Park and a Federal Park, Big Bandy Creek Park, plus I have a hundred acres hunting ground myself. So I can live in the woods if I wanted to.
Great sharpening job. Great knife atb John
+Turtle Bushcraft thanks mate!
Whooow nice! So a 400 and a 8000 stone + a strop and hou do this. Nice video! I just ordered a a1xb. Gotta order those stones yet! Now i know what to order. You were feather sticking paper hahahaha
Wow! Great job on those stones bro, that's a true mirror polish!
Almost too beautiful to use now ! Haha
Good stuff huh?
I'm in love with Cobalt Special.
It's a knife sharpeners dream steel.
It takes alot of skill to make such a perfect mirror polish.
Again,
Amazing work bro.
Thanks for the video :)
+Big Brown Thanks man! the CoS is amazing!
Aft leather,what you use for Final Polish? Do you use polish machine?
It's very good for a completely hand polished blade, but not even close to a true and clean mirror finish.
Thanks to you, my own will arrive Tuesday, peace always keep up the videos!
Congrats on our great Purchase! I hope you'll like it like I do!
no need to feel sorry about your excitement man...this was awesome!
+Darryl Lobo Thanks a lot mate!
Very impresd..sharp I have seen some very good revviews on the A1 Pro...
really nice polishing, the knife looks awesome. 20000 is damn fine.
My highest grid is 12000 superstone but most times im too lazy to go that high^^
+smokin Joe I don't go higher than 5k most of time because of the same reason haha.
now this guy knows how to sharpen a blade! great vids, sub'd!
+malt1618 haha, thanks a lot mate!
That is an immaculate polish!
Thats an awesome knife. I really want one... maybe I will get myself a S1 Pro some day :)
Thanks for the review - Martin
+NorwegianWoods Thanks Martin! I hope to get the a1 pro end of this month. The original a1 was my favourite knife so I simply must have the pro version.
I think the S1 looks like it has a little of both. A F1 and a A1 would be nice but they cost a bit of money...
+NorwegianWoods yeah, production knives don't come much more expensive than this. this f1 was partially sponsored because im writing a review about it. But I've wanted the a1 pro from the beginning . the s1 should be best of both worlds and make a very nice allrounder
It would have been very useful to see the final stage where you actually polish it up to mirror polish... I have no idea with what magic you did that so am none the wiser.............. : \
Martian that is a thing of beauty thank you for sharing
thanks Howard!
Say Heah M&M. Yeah, I always said that the F-1 was a excellent choice to team up with my A-2. This way most all your bases would be covered. But I teamed my A-1 with my H-1 because its close to my 3V Skookum Bush Tool. Which is one of my Fav's. Even though I use this set mostly in wet and snowy conditions, We all know they can be used in any weather condition. Yeah, Fallkniven makes a Great Knife. I especially like how the two sheatgs fit together which I can carry both knives very comfortably side by side in a cross draw which is how I like to carry the two. The middle of the week its suppose to rain. So, yeah, I will be taking this set out my two A-1 and H-1 and by adding new Agawa Canyon 21 Boreal Saw in a Crazy Horse Leather Scabbard which you can shoulder carry, I also with the leather shokder straps can attach it mills to my Kodiak GearSling. No doubt this Set-Up will work great for Scouting which I really enjoy doing the most with a overnighter if I have to. So yeah, When I'm in unfamikar area's, I really depend on good gear. Fallkniven has won that Honor with ne. Especially what Peter the CEO of Fallkniven did for me on one occasion. The owner and CEO showed how good of a nan he is with his cutomers. Nobody can ever day anything wrong about Fallkniven. I know the difference because if my experience with Fallkniven.,,.
Can you teach us how to sharpen the f1 or any fallkniven (convex) without altering the edge shape
Just think. In 4-5 years you're going to be a genuine DBK boy!
Awesome job bro
Great video beautiful job on the bevel, I'm buying!
You didn't show us how you mirror polished it to the top or I should say the whole side view separating it from the top and what stones you used
Ik heb enige angst dat de guard los komt door gebruik. Is die angst terecht?
Jullie filmpjes zijn erg leuk om naar te kijken. Ga zo door!
+stefanr00 de huidige batchess hebben geen problemen meer met de guard. Ze laten hem nu vastlassen aan het mes
Aah oke! Vanaf welk jaar/serienummer zijn ze dat gaan doen?
no problem no problem cutting arm hair haha you were doing the virtuovice
I just ordered the A1 in VG10 based on your other videos, and I know the geometry is different on the PRO series, so do you recommend keeping the secondary bevel that comes from the factory or regrind it at a more steep or shallow angle? Thank you.
Hi, thanks for all your vidéo, great work. A quick question. Are you preferring the pro or the X version of the F1 ? Thanks
How did you polish up the knife at the end? did you go back to the stones or what did ya do to polish the knife? Looks great
Maarten, how do you get that mirror polish? Incredible!
Great video, thanks. I miss Nikki’s hot sauce laugh in the older ones 😆
But is it still a convex shape edge after this procedure?
Any recommendations where to buy from : f1 pro cos, I already know the answer btw, I missed my window to buy and regret it
Hoe krijg jij dat zo mooi gepolished? heb dit geprobeerd met verchillende leer en diamantpasta maar nooit kreeg ik het zo goed. Heb steeds wat doffere plekken. Wow
Aft leather,what you use for Final Polish? Do you use polish machine?
Another great video... Krazy Stupid Sharpness Impressive!
+joe ayala thanks mate!
But how long will the edge last? I guess not for long unfortunately
Amazing! keep thinking CoS is a great steel?. ¿How did you polish the bevel after sharpening?. ¿Dremel tool?
Thanks!
You cut the video from 8k to fully polished I'm wondering what you did. Just stropping the knife bevel flat with compound to get it to pop? Getting a mirror finish on my f1 pro like that is the holy grail that I can't seem to ever get. I have a chosera 400 Sharpton hanokurumaku 1000 2000 5000. And strop compound. Is the 2000 to 5000 too big of a jump for polishing? I have a naniwa snow white 8k in the mail (can't wait). I'm hoping with the 8k and then strop I can achieve that. If the 2k to 5k is too big ill have to get chosera 3000.
I tried and there is spots I cannot hit on my stones at any angle. Ignoring those spots and even after going thru all the grits up to 8k then trying to strop with bark river black then white or just white I cannot get that finish. The strop I have is a DLT ambush pro. There is unfortunately a rough and smooth side. I have black on rough and white on smooth. Maybe smooth aide is not good for polishing the bevel. Feels very tacky while black side on rough leather feels fantastic. Maybe that is why? I'm hoping to snatch one of your dbk paddle strop because they are both rough leather and I hate the tacky feeling of smooth. Might try using sand paper from 400 600 800 1000 etc to high grits like 6000. Can maybe get mirror like this sanding my knife same technique as water stones and can hit the spot I can't with stones. Will be a shame as I love Water stone sharpening the best. If anyone can give me feedback or advice on what I'm doing wrong with my stones and strop thanks for reading my tldr novel lol.
Do you think this steel is as good as CPM 3v or Elmax for bushcrafting choirs? BTW, as always, excellent video.
Hey mate, thanks a lot! CoS shines in it's balance. Easy to sharpen, takes an incredibly sharp edge and has decent edge retention. Elmax and CPM-3V have better edge retention (elmax the best but CPM-3v has more toughness). So CoS is definitely as good but in its own way.
Do you also have the 12000 and the 15000 grit
Hi guys. Good instructions. I'm learning a lot. For mirror policing you use Snow White, would shapton 8000 also work for that purpose?
Hey An, Different stones leave different scratch patterns. you should be good though but there is also a slight chance that the shapton might leave a cloudy finish. From experience with my shapton ha-no-kuromaku stones you'll get a nice mirror I think.
nice job!
Sorry if I still break the handle of F1 normal and the Pro is different? Thermorun of the Pro and the Kraton of 'F1 normal touch are differeneti? as the dimensions are the same? I ask because qulcuno argues that the handle of normal F1 is uncomfortable and small ... is not it? Hello thanks.
both the regular f1 and the new f1 are thermorun. Only the regular A1 used kraton. I don't think the F1 handles are to short. Not in my case anyway. Kraton is a bit softer than thermorun but they feel quite the same. I also like the geometry of fallkniven handles. I have never experienced any hot spots while working with fallknivens.
Please I am asking about that because I'm going to buy an F1 pro and I want to buy the stones that you used or you can tell me a budget stones I can use to mirror polish it
Good stuff thanks! What do you think about flat ground knives that only have a bevel on one side? Also, what is the best power sharpener?
+Blakehx a chisel grind is great for kitchen knives. It leaves a very clean cut. For an outdoor knife it's not so great. For a power sharpener I would recommend the work sharp by Ken union
CPM 3V or m390 and what are the differences? Thanks and keep the awesome vlogs coming!
m390 in terms of edge retention and for it's stainlessness 3v for it's toughness. both are great steels but pretty different from eachother.
i got a sk 5 tigershark that needs a convex edge and polish like that :P
Qustion. What polishing compound did you use for stropping?
DBK makes a stropping compound that they sell online. Hope that helps.
Welke stenen hebben jullie hiervoor gebruikt?
Chille vid man!! Jullie hebben weer een sub erbij
Heb vandaag de pxlx vam fallkniven binnen gekregen in lam cos dit wprd zwz de nieuwe edc voor mij (mijn eerste fallkniven)
does it matter what side of the strop you use first
Hey, ik vroeg mij af welke stenen je gebruikt en waar ik ze kan vinden!
Dit is echt gekkenwerk!
Geniaal! heb je misschien linkjes voor me waar ik ze kan kopen?
Groetjes! Aron
how do you guys maintain certainty that you sharpen the blade an equal amount of times on each side, to maintain the edge in perfect center? It seams to me that you sharpen it an unequal amount of times.
Sharpening the same amount of strokes on each side is overrated. If you check out japanese knife makers or Chefs most of them won't count their strokes. Sharpening is much more about visuals and sound. The sound helps you maintain the right angle while checking the edge every now and then tells you if you're doing it right. It is wise to count your strokes if you have no experience with sharpening yet. However, with these high end steels it would take a very long time of sharpening wrong to get a noticeable effect as you only take of a little steel every time you sharpen. Even if you would sharpen each side the same amount of strokes the pressure of the hand will differ with each stroke which could also deform the edge over time. Don't worry too much about it though as you can also correct it by sharpening.
thanks alot for this great reply!
Awesome video. I just bought the S1, it is my first knife. I bought a hone and black/green compound from Bark River. I also have a DC4 stone from Fallkniven. I don't even know if this setup is ideal to produce the mirror finish because my knife looks scratched up now. Do you think it will suffice? Also, How long did it take you to complete each step? I don't know if I'm doing it long enough at each step. So far, my knife appears to be as sharp as your as i can cut curves and waves in paper as well, its just horribly scratched looking. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your advice, and keep up the good work! Love your vids!
The dc4 is a very aggressive stone. it makes a very sharp edge but can't polish a blade like japanese water stones can. The compound is too fine to bring out the polish after the dc4 scratchess. How long every step on every stone ttakes depends on the type of steel. Just make sure every next stone polishes out the scratches of the previous stone and makes a uniform scratch pattern.
So am I screwed? Did I damage my knife finish beyond repair, or do I just need to get a certain grit to get the scratches out? Any recommendations? Thanks.
SRK of COLD STEEL've tried? Easy to fine treats because they use the same Japanese-made VG1 steel and VG10 steel. Both "SANMAI steel" is the pro series of fallkniven steel of SRK, also considerably cut easy to handle in a similar steel.
Hey mate, I would like to compare the SRk to my A1 someday. It's still on my wishlist.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives
I relieved to hear it. Because it because you guys are influential. I so COLD STEEL is not is making a not worth mentioning knife, "SANMAI" is quite COOL is in. It is excellent in the rough to use. Since stainless steel because my team is the sea of work is important, A1 · A10 · ELMAX'm go up as a very good steel. It than 3V of American steel in particular is made in Japan. If absolutely stainless believe I ELMAX, is good to try to use the 5050 and 5150 FIRST EDGE.
What did you use to obtain the mirror polish? A polishing paste?
Yes, I use bark river black and white compound
Hello, finally I also took myself on Pro F1, I really like, I wanted to ask how do you make it so shiny? What do you use? So to sharpen with that angle you keep it on the stone? Do you think it is easier to sharpen F1 normal or Pro?
haha good to hear you finally made your decision! I use japanese water stones up to 8000 grit and after that I strop with bark river black and white compound for quite some time. I have a new video where I demonstrate. ua-cam.com/video/XIESeCvQ5ds/v-deo.html . Regular vg-10 is more easy to sharpen but CoS is still quite easy.
F1pro or Bark River Aurora cpm3v?
Now I finally know where you live :D FYI blur that out... :D keep yourself safe, I just happened to notice
how did you polish your knife after stropping ? en dit account is toch ook Nederlands ?
I polished the knife using the strop. Dit is nederlands inderdaad!
bt can i use the orginal f1 pro sharping stone wath was inn the complect???
+gamibearlv yes you can but it's more for field use
soory wath is field use is that bad thing
Does the cos steel get chips easily?
Its not the toughest steel but we've never had chips on it yet. Just make sure not to hit hard particles like sand or stone
wow what a difference and such a beautiful edge! what are the names of the stones you used in this process? Im looking for a good set of stones. Thank you for your help
+50 Stitches Steel To sharpen this knife I used the following stones:
Naniwa chosera 400
Naniwa Chosera 1000
Naniwa Chosera 3000
Shapton ha-no-kuromaku 5000
Naniwa Snow white 8000
After sharpening I stropped with Bark River white compound (12.000 grit).
The chosera line has now been replaced with the professional series which deliver the same quality. Sadly the professional stones don't have a base attached. Both Naniwa chosera (professional) And shapton ha-no-kuromaku are very good stones. Don't buy the cheap stones. They are often too soft and will give you a hard time getting a good edge on a premium steel knife.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Very good thank you!
So you think this F1 Pro is really excellent as they say? It is one of the best survival knives on the market? It feels better quality than normal F1? Regrinding with stone Fallkniven DC4 is easy? the wire keeps it long? and it is suitable for abuse?
+Michele Trekkning The F1 pro is an excellent knife in my opinion. I think it's one of the better survival knives out there. I'll recieve the A1 pro within a few days. The a1 pro should be more allround for survival. I found the CoS steel to be easy to sharpen. The DC-4 can definitely do the job. It keeps a good edge and attains an incredible sharp edge after sharpening. I think this knife can have quite some abuse. However I would never cut steel or anything like that with a knife as long as I dont have to.
So it is much better of 'F1 normal?
Michele Trekkning no, the normal f1 is an awesome knife. When you want 10% better you pay 100% more this is how it is with everything sadly. But I think it is better than the regular F1 in both steel and knife design,
please respond my stone colection is getting to be quite an investment , ? what would you prefer for some thining or reprofiling the chosera 800 which i hear is faster or should i get the 1000 which i feel might bee the way to go, appreciate response, thanks
+gunny hey Gunny, a single stone wont be much good. A 400, 1000 and 3000 stone is a perfect combination with a strop. If you're definitely only going to get one I'd personally go with the 1000 stone. It'll take a bit longer but with a strop afterwards you can shave
Do you know a good place where I can buy your or similar sharpening stones?
Depends on where you live. In Europe you could browse Knivesandtools.com
I'll check it out, thank you.
Hey mate, really loved this video! Sub'd! Could you tell me what was involved in the final step to get the mirror polish? Also I am looking to buy one of these beautiful knives for bushcraft. Note I can only get ONE unfortunately! Should I get the F1 Pro or S1 Pro? Thanks!
+kingcrumpet Thanks a lot ! I polished the bevel with a strop and bark river white compound. It is key to sharpen out as many scratches as possible before continuing to your next stone. The scratch marks left by the highest grit stone (8k in this case) are easily stropped out.
I think the S1 pro is the most allround and gives you best of both worlds. If you only use your knife for smaller tasks and deboning i would suggest the F1.
Great, that's what I was thinking. Many thanks for the advice and tips!
Do you still love this steel? Hilarious/awesome video!
How did you do the polishing at the end
+Gina Vergilio I polished the bevel with a strop and bark river white compound. It is key to sharpen out as many scratches as possible before continuing to your next stone. The scratch marks left by the highest grit stone (8k in this case) are easily stropped out.
hello! how you have done the polish of the knife? can u explain please?
+Bate Niki Hello Bate,
It's very important to polish out all scratches the previous stone made with the next stone so that when you reach 8000 or 12000 grit the bevel is already very shiny. It's very hard to achieve a mirror polish with stones only on a convex grind as your angle changes when sharpening and so does the scratch pattern (you can see this on the blade before I started stropping). After polishing with the stones you can start polishing the bevel with a leather strop. You should use a high grit aggressive compound for this like the bark river white compound. The leather is soft and slightly takes the form of the bevel when polishing. This will make a uniform scratch pattern so minuscule that it will appear as a mirror. Make sure there is enough compound on the leather and prevent the leather from touching the cutting bevel (apex) as the long stropping process will 'overstrop' and dull the knife (making it too convex).
You can also chose to fold a small stone like a nagura in a piece of compound loaded leather. The flat surface of the stone will give you a hard surface to rub your leather over the knife almost like a sanding block.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives
Hello, thanks for the reply.
I mean in your video clip around 11min 18sec you say that you will polish the knife because of the scratches...You do that with the leather strop and the white compound?
yes, the core steel of the F1 Pro is sandwiched between softer steels. These softer steels take a mirror much more easy than the core steal would. So if you did a propper polishing job on the sharpening stones up to 8k or 12k it doesn't take long to strop out all scratchess. On hard steals it can take a very long time to do (so I don't bother most of the time). If you have a knife with a small scandi-bevel like the enzo trapper it is also easy to make a nice mirror.
Another method is using sandpaper up to 2000 grit to polish up the sides (don't sharpen with the paper, only polish). This will create a much more uniform scratch pattern than stones making it more easy to make a mirror.
Last method could be a dremel or a buffing wheel. I wouldn't use a buffing wheel as it can be dangerous and will easily dull the bevel with the slightest mistake.
Ok, Thanks! One question more...:)
What is your favorite steel for knive? Elmax, 3G, VG10 or LamCoS of the F1 pro?
haha thats a hard question. I am really in love with elmax at this moment. Elmax is harder to sharpen but has incredible edge holding ( and i am a sucker for edge holding :D ). VG-10 is very awesome as it takes a very keen edge with minimal effort and keeps it quite long as well. However, I think CoS surpasses vg-10 and I think I will like it better than vg-10. It's hard to say after only owning this knife for a few months. Lam. CoS is very awesome either way. I don't really like 3G as it was hard to sharpen and felt a little bit chippy.
it sure is a great knife, just ordered it from knivesandtools. My benchmade mini-grip with cpm-20cv has the same sharpness, and has yet to be sharpened with a higher grit than 1200
vincentvdh9 Knivesandwhat? Pretty damn expensive
Where are you from?
my misses gets so pissed off finding cut up bits of paper all round the house!
hahaahah I know how you feel.
How long did it take you
I think around 1 and a half hour
👍
13:26 haha, screw the hairs - it shaved a couple of skin layers off :D
Anyone realised that the BGM is like the one in the massage shop😹
Now my USMC just looks like a piece of barbaric combat weapon but nothing more, LMAO... fallkniven is so delicate.
Ik ga dit mes denk ik vanmiddag ophalen in apeldoorn. Of een ultralight bushcrafter. Word vervolgd
Nice! de ulta light bushcrafter heb ik in mijn handen gehad. Niet te vergelijken met de F1 pro voor het harde werk maar wel een handig edc mesje. Ben benieuwd wat het wordt.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives De Fallkniven hadden een te klein handvat voor het zware werk voor mij. Het is de Maroon rode ultralight bushcrafter geworden.
Mooi mesje :) en echt super licht. Ik denk niet dat er een alternatief is dat zo licht is en nog steeds full tang. Een van de stevigste mini-mesjes op de markt volgens mij.
For me it's totally impossible to obtain a mirror polish.
+Peo Wahlberg hey Peo what stones are you using and what stropping compound?
I don’t know how I ended up addicted to Dutch Knife Porn, but, hey, whatever.
Back when your videos were actually good with not goofy ah stuff like recent ones
Bohler N690
+Mark Anthony Stringfellow Whats up with N690? I own some N690 blades. pretty sweet steel.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives Theres nothing wrong with it, its one of my favourite along with Infi and Cpm-3v, but n690 does have much better corrosion resistance in wet and miserable uk lol!
As much as a I would like to buy a good bushcraft knife I have no sharpening skills
your T-shirt says black banana if you wonder.
+麥麥可 haha i know its the brand name. Thanks though haha
黑色香蕉。哈哈哈哈哈
its not as bad as it sounds! it really is a brand haha
Ok..we all know these are a convex grind?...flat hard stone.....NO.....rubber block with 1200 wet&dry ...yes...wake up everybody 😴
Convexed