Perfect 3D Printer Bed Adhesives - from the Grocery Store!
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2020
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Do you need specialty bed adhesives or is your pantry already hiding a perfectly suitable 3D printer bed coating? Let's find out!
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I can imagine when testing certain 'adhesives' people saying "Mmm, something smells good, what are you cooking?"
"Benchy."
What are you doing over here?? I see you on Bardwell's channel all the time. :-) :-)
@@twinturbostang :-) I've been designing & printing quad things on my Prusa i3 Mk3 for over 2 years now, like the 18650 holder for the Immersion PowerPLAY, Thingiverse 4080213.
BTW you're not the first FPVer to spot me 'out in the wild' so to speak, someone spotted me in the chat on several of bigclivedotcom's livestreams :)
@@licensetodrive9930 Oh well, and bigbrotherclive too? so... EEVlogs and ....@ve?
@@laiquocbao2565 I've not frequented Dave's channel much recently, but always enjoy the worldly musings of Uncle Bumblef___ and have one or two comments in his videos quite high ranked.
LoL🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
"Pineapple juice isn't really flat" - Thomas Sanladerer 2020
The paint might be a nice way for decorating glass. First paint the glass and then print the pattern that you want to remove from the paint.
Great idea!
Had the exact same idea... Also: if you need to adhere a PETG part to glass.. it would be very nice to know how to do it since when it sticks: it REALLY stick so well that it could be used as a method to attach stuff to glass..
Or if you want to print two coloured signs. The bottom layer is painted and the engraved letters are not
I was thinking the same thing. Make it look like traces on a pcb
or print first, then paint, then peel.
Great video Thomas as always. I use gluestick for PETG when printing on a mirror. However these days I just print on PEI sheets. I did however discover a trick that worked for mirrors/glass and PLA, and that is sugar water!
So what you do is you take 50% hot water, 50% sugar. Stir it up until the sugar dissolves and bring a small cloth to the printer. Heat up the bed and apply the sugar water with the cloth in vertical lines. Then stop, wait for 20 seconds or so for the heated bed to dry the sugar. Then reapply, but with horizontal lines. Wait again. Now, print! :) Gives you a mirror finish beneath your prints and is very sticky when warm,but just pops off when cold! Also on the first layer, if the hotend is above 190-200 the sugar will caramelize which further helps it stick. Please try this!
Will it not change color and color the bottom of the print when it's caramelized? I'm looking for a solution to print transparrent parts on a smooth surface without any texture or color on the bottom of the print :)
I've found that sugar water works really well, when it cools off the part pops right off.
For what materials?
This is what I've been using for the past few years. Perfect at least for pla and petg.
I was hoping to see sugar in the video too. It was the only thing that worked for me every time when I used PETG a few years back.
This looks way more tasty than the glue stick I use
I remember in kindergarten like 1 or 2 classmates would eat adhesive paste, which is probably the same stuff as the glue stick. It sounds nasty, but hey, at least they're not eating something that's actually toxic...
Im not going to lie theres this company that made vanilla scented clue sticks and they tasted as good as they smelled
You think so???
1:26 splooge
My advice on wood glue (or other random pics glue): make a milky water-glue mix and add a drop of dish soap to make it not pull together when applying. Apply with a brush. Lightly clean with IPA before first print after prolonged non-printing.
That's what i do for over a yaer now. I use a mixture of 1 part Woodglue and 4 parts water. Super reuseable and if the glue comes of you just brush some new on the surface.
I do something similar, I bought a bottle of spray-on purple glue, dilute with water, coat and let dry.
I've been using lime juice as a bed adhesive for a couple years now and it's better than anything else I've tried and smells great too.
Does it work with ABS?
My preference is to permanently apply a magnetic sheet to the bed so that I can use cheap cookie sheets from the dollar store covered with blue tape to print on. The print adheres to the blue tape repeatedly but can easily be replaced. The cookie sheet easily removes from the magnetic sheet. And the cookie sheet flexes to easily remove the part.
Next video idea: automatic oven levelling 😋
8:50 “Or you have a bumpy bed, which is not that common”
* * laughs in Ender 3 perfectly conic bed * *
I wish I could give you more than one thumbs up. I feel your pain, brother.
Retialus
I’m thinking about buying a new Creality bed, and something like buildtak.
Easy Peelsy looks very nice, but is unreasonably expensive
@@RamLaska I "fixed" my bed by evening out the surface with some packaging tape, now I can't complain. Seems cheaper and easier than buying a new bed and taking the gamble again.
@@redshifted8790
I've thought of doing the same. How old is your Ender 3? I'm hoping that new beds aren't warped like mine from Oct 2018
@@RamLaska Just a couple of weeks. I can assure you the problem has not been appropriately adressed.
Called it “pasta water”, haha. Your great grandma would inform you that it’s “wheat paste”. Turn of two centuries ago, it was commonly used to glue wallpaper to plaster walls.
Hmm, how about testing Wallpaper Paste from the paint store? It should act similar to wood glue.
Wallpaper paste is traditionally potato based, afaik.
@@JasperJanssen It depends on countires and on which resources were/are available, like, for example wheat flour or starch, rice starch, potato starch, ...
I doubt his grandmother speaks English, but in German they have both words, "nudelwasser" and "weizenpaste".
This was an amazing video! I really enjoyed the way you analysed each print and the concept is super fun. Thanks Tom!
yellow car!!
*Punches brother as hard as humanly posible*
Sugar water is a fantastic bed adhesive. I used it for my glass.bed for the longest time and it's great. Easy to spread on, easy to clean and always cheap and handy. A little less sugar than simple syrup works, like a 2:1 water to sugar ratio. Try it! But don't caramelize it heh
Ano Nony I was JUST thinking about that 😁👍
Sugar works for me too.
How exactly do you apply the sugar water?
@@hlavaatch I use a sponge
I use this as well. It's fantastic. I've never had an issue with bed adhesion since using it.
3M 45 spray adhesive (or comparable spray adhesive)
Works really well even for ABS and exotic filaments
My solution is 100% IPA and gluestick dissolved in it until it is saturated. Sift out the bits, thin it a bit (it is saturated solution, add a bit to compensate for evaporation). Apply with a brush or a sponge, store the applicator in the same container as the "magic goo". It comes out as super thin and fully smooth and it creates a "matte" finish that looks awesome: it is not fully mirror finish but looks more "manufactured".
you may have a better time of making your mix with liquid pva (wood glue) instead of the stick that way it's not so chunky.
Great idea and great video! Love your stuff, and just wanted to say that you’ve helped me out so much with 3D printing and enabled me to accomplish things that wouldn’t have been possible otherwise!!
Hey Thomas,
Wood glue (PLA) and hairspray (PETG) are my goto materials to get good bed adhesion. BUT NOT APPLIED PURELY AND DIRECTLY!!! If applied directly they both form more of a release agent than an adhesive. Especially the hairspray forms something that looks like a thin layer of cotton candy under the microscope. Here's the trick: Spray high strength hairspray onto the print bed, then add a few drops of water and spread out with a brush. Let the water evaporate and you will get ORDERS OF MAGNITUDE better adhesion. No more cotton-candy-release-agent behavior!
Additional benefit: 90% of the hairspray does not even get used, so you can re-juvenate the surface just by brushing over with a wet brush. Redistributing the leftover hairspray. That way a single spray coating (value < 5ct) gan be used for 5-10 prints.
I still use ABS dissolved in acetone, with a tiny piece of rubber from a rubber bowl used to mix plaster (kind of accidental discovery on my part, I used piece of that rubber as a gasket to stop acetone leaking around screws that hold a brush to the inside of the container lid, and over time something dissolved from the rubber into the abs juice, and made juice from that container work inexplicably good). Just a tiny bit, or the surface becomes too soft and will not hold. Apply with a brush at ~60c, prints will then pop off easily after the bed cools down.
Also, acid etched diffusing glass works well as a print surface for this (on the etched side, obviously). Makes nice matt bottom surface.
Hehe a bit old school i know, been 3d printing ABS since 2013 and stuck to what works :)
If you apply thick coating of glue stick and smooth it out with alcohol, then print something with a pattern on it, the next piece will have that pattern in the first layer when you reflect a light from the surface.. Accidental discovery, printed a mandala and then some translucent light reflectors and the mandala pattern was transferred. Very faint but nice little feature.
BTW, mandalas are the real stress test for first layer adhesion.. By far the hardest first layer, full of sharp corners and protruding thin edges.
I have tried acid etched glass too. But my experience is that it sticks better with diamond sanding. It would be nice if Tom could try sandblasted glass...
Initially when i started 3d printing, i also experimented with various adhesives to see which ones worked the best. The one which I settled for and still use now is fabric glue. It is also pva based but less viscous than wood glue or craft glue, and also holds down pretty much all kinds on printable materials.
You, Sir, are a crazy man!!! And that's exactly what we need!!! Great video, I've been having crazy adhesion problems but I think you've given me a lot to work with here!!!
I thought this was going to turn into a CNCKitchen colab.
Fantastic tests! On your PETG test with the plain glass, if you dried it with a paper towel that is probably the reason it released. Paper towel leaves a very slight residue of something left over from the manufacturing process. If you wipe it down with isopropyl and a coffee filter, it will usually steal a chuck or two of glass from the surface. I nice trick for PETG on glass is to put just one or two swipes of glue stick and then wipe the whole surface back down with a damp paper towel. The slight glue residue left on the surface gives a perfect amount of hold with a fairly easy release (also holds up great).
I would say that to get perfect release take the glass of and lett it and the print cool down to room temperature. Then you just have to pick it of the glass. Or just blow it off.
I can second that! A tiny bit of water (that will quickly evaporate) will leave a super thin and strong film. Works with wood glue and hairspray alike :-)
@@nutkickermotioncontrol8238 Exactly - works so much better than putting it on in an actual visible layer!
Only sandblasting or "blueing" removes atomic oil-films.
That is scientific fact.
One can't "blue" glass.
I'd be interested in a continuation of this, testing with ABS and Nylon. I typically use Aqua Net Extra Super Hold hairspray with ABS and glue stick with PLA and PET-G.
Wood glue in my experience works best with Nylon, and for ABS... it's ABS slurry.
Glue stick has always given me trouble, I think some brands add stearine or some sort of wax, which doesn't stick AT ALL.
@@hailstevemcqueen I noticed that the Elmers glue stick that's purple sticks really well, but a cheap glue stick from Dollar General causes nothing to stick. I haven't done much printing with Nylon yet, so I'll give your recommendation a try if I get some in the future.
Yes glue sticks are awesome for PETG, with a skirt I can get PETG to stick without a heated bed and it saves me so much over time in electricity so it's worth it for the extra filament and glue stick purchase (A decent sized stick can last you im sure over a thousand prints, washes off in water like nothing). Right now I switched from a glass bed to a magnetic flexible steel sheet PEI coated (Looks like someone cut a piece of a fridge/freezer lol) and it's so perfect, no more messing with clips and the weight savings, if you hit this with your brass nozzle, the nozzle goes and not the surface lol.
@@hailstevemcqueen I wish I had something different to use with ABS, I kinda hate the slurry.
I just use aqua net with everything LOL.
I wash my plate with Dawn every dozen or so prints, lay a fine mist on it, and then spot-treat any that comes off from a print.
PS: I don't print ABS. I would never. ASA is far better and non-toxic. There is zero point to ABS in 2023, LOL.
honey, add some high % alcohol, spread thin layer, let dry. Profit.
Sounds interesting...does it work with vodka?
@@herrmann3278 If you use drinkable alcohol, you might not need honey. Honey with alcohol should just leave a thin layer with high sugar concentration. So any drink, that mainly consists of alcohol and carbohydrates might work 🤔Maybe even beer or wine. (Although you would certainly smell them. But a bit of Glühwein wouldn't be the worst^^)
And today's sponsor is.... HONEY!
Does the honey dry to a nice smooth film after applying it and does it remain tacky?
Love it. And would love to see a round 2.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Just wanted to say good job on the test bench machine! looking forward to all the tests!
I've been using a high temp PET tape on my bed for years now. Works great with PLA and PETG (and I think ABS, but I haven't printed ABS in several years.) Leaves the smooth bottom just like glass.
"This is nuts", says every PEI bed user in the world.
I never thought i wanted to see this kind of video HAHAHAH..love it man!!
I usually print with PLA on clean glass.
I found that ambient temperature in the room or a drafty room can play a huge role in how well the print sticks. (open frame Prusa clone). Adjust temps accordingly as seasons change and room gets cooler.
I also found that printing the first layer 10-15C warmer on the bed, and 10C warmer on the hotend, then continue printing at normal temps after initial layer has helped eliminate warping and the part sticks well. Still releases perfect when glass gets around 45C. The part I print the most is about 25x150 on the initial layer, but looks awesome with a glass finish on the bottom.
PLA+ however, I have found some brands don't behave as nicely, and I'll use hairspray to make them stick.
I just tried frosted glass, had the glass cutters sandblast one of my sheets of glass, seems to work well when i can get that first layer right (and keep it clean)
But as for adhesive, shower spray cleaner, thats what i used for a while, i found straight window cleaners can leave a film (I think its to make windows look nicer) where shower cleaner doesn't leave anything, when wiped off completely just using that and plain glass worked like 90% of the time for me
thomas my friend, your mendel 9001 is inspirational and what i have been working towards without even previously knowing of its existence, but wow, talk about modular to the maximum degree! kudos to you good sir
Garlic used to be used as glue also, maybe it could work pretty well as bed adhesive, nice thing is you can rub it on the surface like a glue stick.
With a glass bed, One swipe of dollar store glue-stick; then spread it out with a paper towel that is wet with IPA. That is all you need. This technique has given me the perfect thin yet clingy surface for my prints. It is quick, cheap, and easy to apply. One treatment can do more than one print, but I prefer to just give the surface another wipe with the paper towel/IPA to re-spread the glue between prints. It just takes a few seconds and the surface is perfect again. Eventually you will need another wipe of glue-stick, but just the smallest amount as you want to avoid build-up of the glue.
It would have been nice if the test included sandblasted glass without any adhesives. The blasting increases the area where the filament can grip on to the surface. Might be a bit to much when printing PETG but from experience I can say that it works great with PLA and ABS. Just clean with a little Isopropyl alcohol between sessions.
I always use simple standard household sugar with water. I just poor a bit sugar on a small plate and add a little hot water and I mix it with a normal kitchen sponge. When it has mixed I apply it to the bed with the sponge. I "massage" the bed, it is very satisfying and easy. Usually I preheat the bed then to let it dry. Sometimes I repeat it twice or so to "prime" the layer, between prints I just freshen it up with the sponge.
For me this has several advantages:
- It is super cheap and always ready to use available, you can't run out of it
- It is super easy to clean off (just rinse under water tap)
- It is very easy to freshen up between prints
- Because of the surface tension it flattens out perfectly
If for whatever reason the print does not stick, I also love the Cura "Z Offset Setting"-Plugin. If you give it negativ z-offset it will smush the print into the plate. I increment in 0.2 mm steps. Same if it sticks to much, just add positive offset. This allows you to finetune your bedleveling.
Regarding sticking I also like to play with the bed-temperature. Higher temperatures help the stuff to keep stuck (e.g. 70 or 80 degrees) and when you let the bed cool off completely, the material tensions will pop the piece off the bed almost by themselves. It takes longer to heat up and cool down though. So I use higher bed temps seldomly.
Great test!!! If I were you I would also test it with 3M Blue Tape because its acrylic cover combines with most ingredients and makes it stickier and proper for 3D printing, and unsticky when you put it underwater, so to me it's the perfect 3D printing cover and can be used with all the ones that can be used in the plain glass.
Great and creative video. Thx!
Großartig!
All das, was du an Wissen bietest, ist unglaublich wichtig für abertausende Menschen rund um die Welt!
Vielen herzlichen Dank!
Sobald mal wieder mehr Geld da ist, werde ich auch deinen Patreon-Account stürmen.
Nice to see the testbench finaly in action.
Last I saw a guy print on a pizza box and I thought that was crazy. Now you print on egg whites. Such a pleasant crazy for the crazy 2020.
Just admit it, you make this video as an excuse to eat the white omelet with sriracha sauce.
and write it of as business expences :P
I have previously used lamination pouches applied to glass (suggested by another use on a different forum). Applying is simply place the inside of the pouch on a glass sheet, and heat to above 80C, while applying pressure to get a nice flat surface (without bubbles). It works very well for PLA and Flexible, PETG sometimes ruins the surface.
Have been printing on beer covered glass with PLA for a long time. Works 👌🏻. Haven’t tried PETG.
Hmm... that sounds like someone looking for an excuse for spilling their beer. :)
Wood glue works extremely well. May be too much.
And wood glue works very well to glue pla pieces together if you use a clamp, just like wood.
Nice instructive video. Thank you!
Contact adhesive is similar when it comes to gluing parts together. It is not fully permanent join so you can pry the pieces apart but holds well enough that at least visual stuff, art etc. it is nice to have something that isn't super strong. Superglue and epoxy will stick so well that they rip the layers apart before letting go.
I got to admit, I can't say I've ever gone into my pantry and wondered about what I could use on my printers bed.... However, that wasn't going to stop me from watching the video. And the results where interesting. :-) Thanks!
Now this is an awesome idea, really nice
Thanks!
Nice alternatives for when needed...
I have a little can with 'sugar-alcohol-mix'and brush on-hand near my printers when needed. Sometimes for easier release for PETG or for sticking better (TPU, PLA). Coming off easy after cooling down but sticking well when printing.
I use: fully concentrated sugar-water (so it is just dissolved), added water 5 times and then added 100% ethanol for doubling.
This way, it is keeping dissolved quite well, easy to put on the bed with the paintbrush in thin layer and dries fast (room-temperature or preheating the bed).
And here: never need to go extra to the shop or buy glue or things like that. It is just a very thin coating that stays on the bed pretty well, only if applied too thick you get a sugar-coating on the bottom of the print - but that is easy removed with some water.
best thing by far was just sanding up my glass on one side to frost it (pla,abs, asa, pteg, HDPE, all worked fine no additional glue). Getting off super hard, just heat up the bottom side of the glass. Hairdrier, hot water towel, etc. Just sand it back when needed. Also sugar water works well.
Been using Kapton sheet in the beginning, then when removable PEI sheets became available I changed to those and never ever, not once used any gluestick, hairspray or anything to treat the bed. In my opinion just too messy and not needed 🤷♂️... I wipe down the bed with isopropyl alcohol after every print and just before starting a print... works perfectly 👍
petg and painters tape works fantastic! I covered my whole plate in painters tape and been printing petg on it for about a month before having to redo the bed with new tape.
I dilute wood glue and apply with a sponge. Works really well and wipes off with water.
I very much enjoy the lo-fi background printing music.
What work very well for pla is saturated salt and water, leaves a foggy surface , drys quickly and removes all the oils of the glass. When is cold you can listen to the parts releasing from the glass
you forgot to test double sided tape (carpet tape) :) (works awesome for all type of materials, even impossible to stick HDPE and PP)
Im new to 3D printing, but not new to the internet so im really glad to see theres a 'weird side of youtube' for 3D printing XD
I use jelly block. Spray the glass with a water spay bottle then rub the jelly block on it just like glue stick. Then turn bed heater on. By the time the beds up to temp surface is dry and tacky. Prints stick well and when bed cools release easily. Parts are cleaned from any residue with just water. Raspberry is my fav 😀
Damn, I wanted the Rooster Ketchup to spice up my tasty prints. Thanks for the video and have a great weekend.
Started out using blue painters tape 2 inches wide, works wonderfully, got tired of the seam marks from the tape. I was printing on the aluminum bed so I bought a textured glass plate. That worked for a little while, then didn't. I turned it over to the plain glass side and used hair spray from the dollar store, haven't looked back. $2.50 for a huge can. I have to wash the glass periodically because of hairspray buildup
sheet (ultra wide) masking tape on glass for me - perfect results, lasts for many prints. Old school.
Gelatine or hide glue.
Potato starch.
Balsamic vinegar.
Jam.
Cola.
Fruit juice.
Paper towel.
"Bei zweihundert Grad für fünfzehn Minuten backen und KEINE EIER!"
That was awesome!
In the US we have a hairspray called Aqua Net, extra super hold, unscented. This stuff is magic. I can spray it on cold class and by the time the bed is hot, it's dry. I have used this on PLA, PETG, and (if the part isn't too big) ABS.
Alternate title: "I put a bunch of consumer paste products on my printer bed because I needed a video for this Autodesk sponsorship"
That thumbnail is great
Except the video has nothing to do with the Prusa i3.
Yes but it doesn't prevent it from being funny or relevant since siracha was actually one of things tested
I use Glue Juice that I make by dissolving 10 grams of Elmer's X-treme glue stick in 500 ml of distilled water. A thin coating distributed over a glass sheet makes a great surface to print ABS. The 154th three hour part just finished. It self releases in 15 minutes when the 110C bed cools. Turnaround between parts takes less than a minute, including part inspection.
I've tried Glue Juice made with three different types of white glue and all were complete failures. I need to try wood glue to make Glue Juice.
Thanks for the interesting experiment.
Tom, nice test! One thing which is worth to mention is that glass has 2 sides. In "printing on the glass" world only air side is that which is printable. The tin side has worst adhesion and print can detach from it in time. It would be nice if you could check does this rule also work in 3D printing.
Easiest way to check which side is which is by using UV C light. Mostly common place where you can find this kind of UV bulbs is in the uv money checker **WARNING UV C IS DANGEROUS!! **.
Uh... Are you sure you mean UV-C? It's not visible to the human eye, you can usually just see the faint blue-ish glow on the bulbs. UV-A and -B is the semi-visible purple-ish light that is used in money checkers (because they include fluorescent parts that start to "glow", just as light fabric "glows" under your typical "disco light" that also uses UV-A/B). UV-C is very dangerous for your eyes and you should NEVER be near a running bulb that's not fully covered/enclosed!
Nifty. Now, I remember responding on Joel's big printer video: my first printer had a glass bed and I printed PET(G) on it (more specifically, ColorFabb XT, so it may not be the same to some people), and it didn't break the glass. It may not be "which PETG" it may be "which glass", or both.
What I'm more interested in is testing other materials: PC, Nylon, OBC, TPU/TPE. Those are the ones that always seem to require something to help with adherence.
OBC is also well documented as needing clear packing tape or some polypropylene item for adhesive. But myself (and enough others) have indicated no interest in putting packing tape on their PEI or similar (and I don't see much interest in it to print enough to warrant buying a surface that will always have packing tape on it).
When I was first starting out, I used watered-down wood glue and got great results.
Now I use hairspray, and wonder whether the wood glue was less messy.
Very interesting comparison. I have been using Kapton tape on aluminium, which works quite well for pla and tpu. The main advantage is that it does not break after a few prints and it leaves a nice shiny surface.
Hi Thomas, for the last 5 years I have been using Liquid UHU office glue. After a print or two the glue dries out but I then reactive the glues stickiness with a few drop of vinegar. Form time to time I add a drop of glue to keep a even amount of adhesive surface. The cool thing is that all print pla, petg does not stick when the bed is cooled down to about 35 degree C.
Great idea for a video!
Geil, dass ich mal jemanden sehe, der ebenfalls diesen ollen Bauhaus-Werkzeugkoffer-Cutter benutzt. Das hätte ich nicht gedacht :)
I rub a 'magic eraser' (melamine foam sponge) on my Prusa's PEI covered spring steel sheet, it works extremely well at removing finger grease etc. especially for printing PLA, but to print TPU I have to use a gluestick or it sticks too well, there's a couple of tiny chunks of the PEI ripped out from TPU sticking too hard...
100% IPA, gluestick. Dissolve stick until fully saturated, sift out the bits, add a bit more alcohol to compensate for evaporation during storage. Apply with melamin sponge or a brush (i use both, brush adds more solution, sponge is used to even it out and it soaks the excess). Store the applicators in the same jar as the "goo". One layer lasts for 10-15 prints easily if not printed exactly in the same spot each time. Cleaning is easy, wash it out, apply a new layer. 30g gluestick will last at least a year or two.
Brilliant!
Magic erasers are abrasives.
I use a v05 gel spray hair spray, squirt on a few sprays, spread, heat up the bed to dry it out and print. The coating lasts ages and seems to work fine. I printed a 200X200X1 flat square on a glass bed with that hairspray and I got only a small warp in one corner that was in a breeze.
I'm thinking of trying either white or yellow glue thinned with about 50% water. Thanks for the video it gave all of us some good ideas.
hey Thomas! great video! as a follow up might i reccommend doing a video on poilishing prints when finishing with things in your pantry? I often use olive oil, but i have also used coconut oil as well, and glanced at a few other items and wondered. You are welcome to the idea! maybe ill do a follow up on my channel.
I’ve had good luck with lite beer on glass print beds in the past.
Nice idea. One thing I found with the ones I tried: PVA glue and hairspray, is that it's difficult to get consistency and it's difficult to clean off ready for a new coat (although I was applying direct to the printer bed).
In my opinion it's worth paying the extra for specialist 3D printer bed glue.
That Mendel 90 is by far my favorite printer.
I have used wood glue because that's what I have sitting in my garage close to the printer. I have also used elmer's school glue. With both I put on a thin layer and spread it out then stick it on the heated bead @ 70c so it dries pretty quickly. They last for several prints then I can scrape it off really easily and re-apply when it's time to refresh it.
Crazy, I've never had PETG bond to glass. Aguanet is my go to for hairspray too. AWESOME Video!
One to one mix of PVA glue and water, applied extremely lightly with a MF cloth, has been an absolute game changer for me on Creality glass. I had no end of curling, warping, dragging and lifting prior.
I use a 5% solution of PVA glue in water applied with a paint brush on glass. Works great and if you get a stuck part, just dribble water around it and leave for 10 mins. One coat does many prints.
I love to use water soludable liquid glue. By using spunge you can get really even and thin layer. It stick well and surface after printing is great!
very interesting video Thomas. A factor here is also ease of use. I have always used Aqua Net on glass because it is so simple and easy to do. I wash my plates, dry then a spray and then dry on the heated bed. Works every time. I'd go crazy if I had to prepare my my printer slides like old school photographic plates. I have a suggestion with the wood glue, thin it down with a 25%/75% water solution and try it in a spray bottle. The pasta water might be interesting sprayed as well. The albumen should work but it's a bio hazard.
The best bed-adhesion I have ever gotten, is by a thin layer of ABS-slurry on glass (ABS in Acetone).
And, it keeps on trucking for 50+ prints without damage or problems.
I have had zero issues with aquanet extra hold. Works great just spray it on thick
3DLac is rebranded Nelly Hairspray
Thanks! I like my 3D Lac that i got for free with one of my printers. I was wondering what kind of hairspray they rebranded. Tryed to buy some water based hairspray, but that just did not work at all. I'll have to check if there is a supplyer for Nelly around here.
@@ProtonOne11 Can I ask what printer was that?
Do you have a source for that claim?
@@leopshef you have to look at the cap of the spray bottle, It has the Nelly logo on it, as well as on the manufacturer on the label
@@mathiaszwirschitz2463 Interesting. I've never bought it but they're adamant it's not hairspray.
enjoyed the video
Salt water is working extremely good on glas. Did this for a while until I swapped to a filabase surface on my Ultimaker S5.
I've been using water saturated with sugar for years - never failed a print (PLA & PETG) - I emptied a tube of liquid glue and always keep it filled with sugar water, have a large paintbrush handy and even the worst print surface will stick (1st gen CR10 with crooked bed, a hemera, bltouch, SK1.4, new bed mosfet and noctua fans)
I use alcohol to clean the bed then spray the bed with hairspray, start print lay down four layers, then pause the print let it cool down then respray the whole part to stiffen, and restart the print, works like a dream.
You can clean the glass with Toothpaste and water, then print on it instead of directly into the toothpaste.
Because the toothpaste is abrasive the glass will get more likely to keep the prints in place.
For the purpose of science, you should try a thin sugar syrup and a thin starch solution - cornstarch or rice starch. They are analogous to the pineapple juice and pasta water respectively but more controlled.
Aquanet ( Extra Super Hold) Hair Spray rocks .. Works most every time for me on my Gold edition Tevo Tornado ! Great Video by the way !
Nice Experiment! I use some Styrofoam or EVA glue, and diluted with alcool. its works very well with most plastic i used so far.