Better Bed Adhesion | Making 3D Prints Stick
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- In this video I go over all the basic fundamentals about how you can achive better bed adhesion when it comes to FDM printers. Getting the best bed adhesion for your 3d printer is completely possible. I go through several things to help you get better adhesion. Check out the time code below to skip to the section you desire.
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00:00 Intro
00:54 Cura Settings
2:53 The Printer
4:28 Nozzle Height Examples
7:50 Leveling Your Bed
8:13 DON'T USE PAPER!!
12:33 Level with Feeler Guage
14:21 Awesome People
14:57 Leveling
18:20 Types of Build Plates
20:22 Keep It Clean
21:31 Get the Extra Grab!
The feeler gauge: amzn.to/3AVTxPj - Навчання та стиль
As a career mechanic it blew my mind when I bought my first 3D printer and it said to use paper to set the height. Feeler gauges are simple and accurate! Enjoyed the video, I’m going to try several Cura settings you suggested.
Yeah I’m on the other side as a designer I knew paper is so varied and inaccurate. Hope those settings help you. Happy printing!
Perrrfect! I purchased my first 3D printer some days ago, and I had some adhesion problems... after accurately leveling the bed, it prints like a dream with perfect adhesion 👏👏👏
You did a great job explaining all of this. Thanks so much!
Thanks I’m glad it could help!
Great info.
I watched a video by Maker's Muse where he talked about using garolite fiberglass. I bought a sheet for $10 and cut it myself. It's amazing. I don't need glue and my prints release once it's cool. It's thin enough where I can flex it a little to help pop it off. The only adhesions issues I've had were due to me screwing up something else. I also use a BLtouch auto leveler.
That’s awesome I’m gunna have to get some and try it! Thanks for the tip!
As you're saying this here I am leveling with a strip of paper 😂 i need to upgrade to a feeler gauge. I need to become a patrion ill do that when i get paid.
Feeler gauges are great. Feel free to join the free UA-cam discord link is in the description
Excellent video. This is where I'll point anyone struggling with bed adhesion in future. One small comment. I prefer sugarwater to glue stick. It works just as well, is even cheaper (!) and cleanup is as easy as holding the bed or print under running water for a few seconds. I keep a ready mixed little squirt bottle next to the printer and just squirt it on and wipe it around with a little paper towel. I usually don't have to redo it for every print.
This is interesting I'm going to have to try this. Thanks for the tip!
I'm glad someone else besides me, uses feeler gauges for leveling... I personally use a.foot-long .038mm gauge. I also use a glass build plate.... clean works fine, but works best with a light mist of hair spray.
Oh yeah I want to be accurate. I use to use hair spray and switched to glue sticks. Less mess. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you!! I feel prepared to print now. Printer is shipping to me now.
Your very welcome I wish you luck with your new printer.
Great Video. I still have a couple of printers without autolevel. On the ones I have with a BL touch, I just tweak it once every month or so with octoprint. I never though of using 130% on the first layer. I'll try that!
Thanks glad you liked it. BL touches can be great to have for sure. Less hassle.
Hi Chris. Love your Cura videos. I haven't seen anything on Cura Bridging in your series. Any thoughts on doing a tutorial on Bridging?
Thanks for all the other videos, they are VERY HELPFUL.
Great video as usual my friend. And just like you all I use is purple glue hehehe
Ha ha. Yeah purple glue stick is amazing.
I have played about with brims and rafts..... usually successfully..... but USING A GLUE STICK has been a complete revelation!
I've been printing for 2-3 years and started using a glue stick last week. All the filaments that gave me adhesion problems have started behaving perfectly! I haven't used a raft on any of the small prints that I was previously having to use rafts for since I started using 'scotch' brand version of Pritt. It seems like admitting defeat, but try some glue instead of rafts..... it'll save ages and make like just nicer!
What did you set set your z-offset and how did you determine the value. The 0.1 mm is not your z-off set.
15:54 and 17:41 you were adjusting it in different spots. The most effective way is to tram the bed right over the adjusting screw, where bed is pivoting.
I know this is ol...now i have a neptune 3 pro that has the touch screen to lvl...now i have the feeler...i go to .1 but do you need to change the feeler if you have to go closer too?? Or jus keep it at .1 as you adjusting??
Just use a petg bed and use 90% alcohol. Wipe it 1 time and spray it a 2nd time wipe quick leave it wet and evaporate by itself. Never once in 4 months have i had a adhesion issue. The feeler gauge was a game changer.
Yeah PETG beds are nice. I’ve had good luck with them on past printers as well. I prefer glass. 😄
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I'm fighting with roof quality with supports now.
I have the Elegoo neptune 4 plus
I replaced the bed leveling springs with metal tube so i dont ever have to manually level the bed, now i just let it autolevel knowing that the bed is now flat n fixed i only have to worry about the nozzle hight
And If i have a bad print i know its the filament and not the bed leveling
1 less headache 😅
On an i3-like printer, i got rid of springs as well. I simply have a screw from the bed be supported by one nut below the bed, one nut above carrier, and one nut below the carrier. I have really flat thumb wheels on the two nuts around the carrier, barely thicker than the nut. It all locks together and the bed isn't going anywhere. I have also installed diagonal rods that tie the front of the printer to the top and make it rigid. I haven't had levelling trouble before, i did this to eliminate the resonance introduced by the spring mass system of the bed springs and the bed.
Mind though that as soon as i finished that mod, i accidentally bumped and broke my bed probe which is also my Z endstop. So i crashed the nozzle into the bed and the glass shattered. Had to learn making glass, it was fun.
I inherited a printer. The aluminum bed has a Lot of divots and things from head crashes. I use tape because it's .... sort of soft and evens things out. Stuff sticks really well, it's a pain in the butt to change though.
Yeah I know exactly what you mean I used it on an older printer and it stuck great and a huge pain to change. Thanks for the comment. 😁
Gatta baby sit 🪑 that first layer 😅
Yo dude loving your videos. Any chance you could please do one on temp towers and retraction towers? I keep making them but cant see any differences all the way up.
I already did that you can watch them in this playlist.
ua-cam.com/play/PLv65CP2QM2rFHMu6OGJVkwC3ictFhB00n.html
@@ItsMeaDMaDeoh great it's those vids. I actually just saved them to watch later. Thanks man and keep up the great work! Just while you're here I dont suppose you would have any ideas why on my temp tower it all looks the same from bottom to top..? I'm using a bondtech ddx v3 with microswiss hotend. I hate asking but it's really bugging me. Help me ItsMeaDMaDe, you're my only hope. (Star Wars reference lol)
@@danielcoombes3310 I guess in this instance UA-cam is acting as a R2-D2 relaying the message 😂
I digress, anyway that does happen the main reason is some filaments actually print good at all temps after it hits it’s melting point. When it comes to laying down filament it works great it sometimes depends on if it strings at different temps so you may have to do a few string/retraction tower tests at different temps to see what works best. But I have found some filaments just work great at any temp. Best of luck I hope this helped.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe yeah dude it most definitely helped. Thanks for taking the time to reply to me. I watched your other vids too. All really helpful
Probably off topic but what do you do with all the scrap plastic (flashing, failed prints, etc.)? Can it be re-melted and made into new filament?
There is a company in Germany which will accept your sorted garbage (needs to be sorted by material; doesn't need to be sorted by colour) which extrudes it into fresh filament. Mind though that recycled filament is more expensive than virgin. Should it not go bankrupt, perhaps there will be other businesses like that in other regions, which for now just... well many makers sort and collect plastic waste in the hope that one day this comes along.
Great video, ok you use 0.1 gap for pla what would you suggest for petg, I use 0.3
No matter what the layer height I always use a .1mm gap
No , I mean petg needs a bigger gap to the bed than pla, wonder what you suggest
Can we have the link to the feeler gauge? 👀
So sorry I forgot to put it. It is there now down in the description.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe awesome thank you!
They sell these everywhere. Go to autozone and get one today. Maybe Walmart
Iv just got a elgoo Neptune 3 max second hand Iv done 4 prints of a statue different sizes fine now I’m trying to build a dredd helmet and my first try built fine but missed 2 thin support at the front of the helmet and it got 18 hours in and stopped? Now I’m trying to do the print again it’s not sticking in areas on the bed why ?? What am I doing wrong??