You can't use a pre emergent weed and feed around end of August because September is the time you need to start aeration and seeding. Grass seed will not grow with pre-emergent on the ground.
Very true, the weed and feed I showed in this video had PE in it but not all of them do. If you use a weed and feed that doesn't include PE around August 31 and then overseed in late sept then things should be ok but not with the Bio-Advanced product I showed in this video.
I'm new to the lawn care community and Im only taking advice from yours and one other channel. Wondering if you can help me with a question. I'm laying brand new tttf in so cal this Sunday. (I know... It's spring..) I'm putting the seed down with Scott's trip action with misotrione at the same time. Should I or can I apply milogranite at that time as well to help with root development before summer or maybe do that 4 weeks after germination?
@@derekshane8786 Scotts® Turf Builder® Triple Action Built For Seeding is formulated to help grow new grass and control against weeds while feeding and strengthening grass. But I think putting down Milorganite would be over-fertilizing it so do it 4 weeks after.
For most home owners the Weed & Feed type of products are a lot more convenient and practical, most folks aren't really into lawn care and 1 or 2 applications of Weed & Feed keeps the HOA trolls from complaining, warning and issuing fines hence they're very popular. Although they are not the most effective at controlling weeds and feeding your grass, they are adequate enough for the majority of customers, so I won't say not to use it but just know you're paying for the convenience in cost and effectiveness.
I'm using Anderson Fertilizer with surge on my Texas St Augustine and alternating with Celsius WG each month. I have a house with a 40 year bad lawn we bought 2 years ago, and I am going for the nuclear option.
For a few years I've maintained the opinion that an annual 8-2-5 ratio is best which is fairly similar to your 3-1-2 target. Here's the long video where I first talked about this: ua-cam.com/video/aZWHd-O5EBY/v-deo.html The reason for that has to do with tissue tests that indicate that extra P & K don't seem to affect tissues beyond that ratio and both P & K can leech from the soil if over applied so soil holding of soluble P & K is likely to wane if over applied as well. So long as you are applying N to the lawn then keeping the other macros in line should keep your lawn looking it's best. Biggest caveat here though is as your lawn improves over time then the soil microbial life will multiply and more bound nutrients will become plant available making the extra addition of P & K a little less necessary. This however really gets us into diminishing returns. Stick with 3-1-2 every year or 4-1-2 (probably better) or with my 8-2-5 and you'll never have to second guess yourself again. :)
yeah, from my understanding CGM needs to be applied with perfect soil moisture to have any noticeable effectiveness and it needs to be applied regularly through the spring at diligent intervals meaning the nitrogen add gets pretty high...even then you have to use it regularly for multiple years before you really see a significantly diminished amount of weed breakthrough. For sure it's expensive that's why most people up North tend to go the post-emergent route. Does that sound right to you? I'm still trying to hone in my Canadian lawn care regimen in my head. LOL
@@TurfMechanic Yes, we totally go post-emergent. My lawn is almost weed free, so I dont use much. I mostly pull weeds. Had a problem with creeping charlie the other year, but that’s gone now. (Stubborn weed) but gone now 😎
Great timing then, it does make a slightly more difficult application but definitely use a pre-emergent and a dedicated fertilizer. See this blog post for your estimated pre-emergent date; if you're date is past then I'd probably use a dithiopyr product. These things can usually be found locally and online. Good luck!
Nearly every video I publish these days is sped up 6%, I've been doing this most of the time for the past 9 months or so. Videos where I adlib (no script) like this one I talk faster because I'm not trying to follow the script which slows me down. It's weird, scripts make the videos shorter because every word is deliberate but they are harder for me to make because I'm not an actor, I have trouble following scripts precisely. When I just ramble on a topic I am passionate about I say a lot more words but I rattle them off the top of my head faster naturally. Anyway, hope you find that peak behind the curtain interesting at least. Also, fun fact, you are the first person to ever ask in comments if the video was sped up. :)
I would agree, but I did use a type of weed & feed because its the only thing I can get my hands on easily where I live (Netherlands). I had a type of lesser celandine coming in through winter (does so every winter), it was in there hiding when getting sod in summer when it is dormant below ground.
A suggestion for cool season lawn Crabgrass Prevention---Prodiamine (cheaper over time)-- use large droplet sprayer tip to put onto the ground. Crabgrass killer--DriveXLR8 (Quinclorac)--mix with MSO and use mist spray tip to get post emergent onto the weed leaves. Poa elimination--Velocity PM available as of March 2024 if you can get it (expensive but effective) Hope this helps.
@@slowjett7343 I spot sprayed some POA areas with Image, the instructions said use 4 oz for 1 gallon but it seemed to strong everything turned yellow after a few days, I'm kinda Leary about spraying any more , I'm in California.
Slowjett's got some good info in his comment - just remember crabgrass germinates in the Spring. If you apply straight dithiopyr or prodiamine or pendimethalin now you will prevent it's germination and if any breaks through anyway by July/August you can apply straight quinclorac to kill it off before it goes to seed. Just make sure to attack it on a cooler summer day. If you look closely at the label of the product I showed in this video it uses Dithiopyr and has quinclorac on the active ingredient list along with the fertilizer. The active ingredients are the right ones to use for everything but the timing is convoluted. As for POA it germinates in the fall and dies off naturally by late spring usually so the weed and feed isn't actually killing it; it's simply at the end of it's life cycle this time of year. If you want to prevent that then a second well-timed application of pre-emergent in the fall will do the trick. For a lot of extra help with pre-emergent timing in the spring see this blog post I put together earlier this year: turfmechanic.com/when-to-apply-pre-emergent-table-by-usa-city/
@craigros5 Yes. There's a PBS YT vid of an old guy with a DIY spray fertilizer and weed killer. The soap helps it stick too plants (killer) and acts as an adjuvant to help penatrate the soil by reducing water surface tension (fert) Jerry Baker the guy
Love the intelligent adult delivery of information. Anyone saying you're long winded should take a deeper breath and smaller bites.
You can't use a pre emergent weed and feed around end of August because September is the time you need to start aeration and seeding. Grass seed will not grow with pre-emergent on the ground.
Very true, the weed and feed I showed in this video had PE in it but not all of them do. If you use a weed and feed that doesn't include PE around August 31 and then overseed in late sept then things should be ok but not with the Bio-Advanced product I showed in this video.
I'm new to the lawn care community and Im only taking advice from yours and one other channel. Wondering if you can help me with a question. I'm laying brand new tttf in so cal this Sunday. (I know... It's spring..) I'm putting the seed down with Scott's trip action with misotrione at the same time. Should I or can I apply milogranite at that time as well to help with root development before summer or maybe do that 4 weeks after germination?
@@derekshane8786 Scotts® Turf Builder® Triple Action Built For Seeding is formulated to help grow new grass and control against weeds while feeding and strengthening grass. But I think putting down Milorganite would be over-fertilizing it so do it 4 weeks after.
For most home owners the Weed & Feed type of products are a lot more convenient and practical, most folks aren't really into lawn care and 1 or 2 applications of Weed & Feed keeps the HOA trolls from complaining, warning and issuing fines hence they're very popular. Although they are not the most effective at controlling weeds and feeding your grass, they are adequate enough for the majority of customers, so I won't say not to use it but just know you're paying for the convenience in cost and effectiveness.
I'm using Anderson Fertilizer with surge on my Texas St Augustine and alternating with Celsius WG each month. I have a house with a 40 year bad lawn we bought 2 years ago, and I am going for the nuclear option.
💯…. What are your thoughts on maintaining 3-1-2 NPK ratio if your soil test results are all normal?
For a few years I've maintained the opinion that an annual 8-2-5 ratio is best which is fairly similar to your 3-1-2 target. Here's the long video where I first talked about this: ua-cam.com/video/aZWHd-O5EBY/v-deo.html The reason for that has to do with tissue tests that indicate that extra P & K don't seem to affect tissues beyond that ratio and both P & K can leech from the soil if over applied so soil holding of soluble P & K is likely to wane if over applied as well. So long as you are applying N to the lawn then keeping the other macros in line should keep your lawn looking it's best. Biggest caveat here though is as your lawn improves over time then the soil microbial life will multiply and more bound nutrients will become plant available making the extra addition of P & K a little less necessary. This however really gets us into diminishing returns. Stick with 3-1-2 every year or 4-1-2 (probably better) or with my 8-2-5 and you'll never have to second guess yourself again. :)
Lol, Canadian weed & feed (Scotts) is 100% corn gluten. It’s expensive and need to apply alot for minimal results. Used once and never again!
yeah, from my understanding CGM needs to be applied with perfect soil moisture to have any noticeable effectiveness and it needs to be applied regularly through the spring at diligent intervals meaning the nitrogen add gets pretty high...even then you have to use it regularly for multiple years before you really see a significantly diminished amount of weed breakthrough. For sure it's expensive that's why most people up North tend to go the post-emergent route. Does that sound right to you? I'm still trying to hone in my Canadian lawn care regimen in my head. LOL
@@TurfMechanic Yes, we totally go post-emergent. My lawn is almost weed free, so I dont use much. I mostly pull weeds. Had a problem with creeping charlie the other year, but that’s gone now. (Stubborn weed) but gone now 😎
Nice classic car.
Great information. I was going to buy some wees and feed this weekend!
Great timing then, it does make a slightly more difficult application but definitely use a pre-emergent and a dedicated fertilizer. See this blog post for your estimated pre-emergent date; if you're date is past then I'd probably use a dithiopyr product. These things can usually be found locally and online. Good luck!
Is this video sped up or are my eyes n ears deceiving me?
Nearly every video I publish these days is sped up 6%, I've been doing this most of the time for the past 9 months or so. Videos where I adlib (no script) like this one I talk faster because I'm not trying to follow the script which slows me down. It's weird, scripts make the videos shorter because every word is deliberate but they are harder for me to make because I'm not an actor, I have trouble following scripts precisely. When I just ramble on a topic I am passionate about I say a lot more words but I rattle them off the top of my head faster naturally. Anyway, hope you find that peak behind the curtain interesting at least. Also, fun fact, you are the first person to ever ask in comments if the video was sped up. :)
I would agree, but I did use a type of weed & feed because its the only thing I can get my hands on easily where I live (Netherlands). I had a type of lesser celandine coming in through winter (does so every winter), it was in there hiding when getting sod in summer when it is dormant below ground.
sounds like you know what you're doing; there's always exceptions. :) Glad to have my international viewers btw! :)
My biggest concern is crabgrass and POA everything else W&F seems to work pretty well.
A suggestion for cool season lawn
Crabgrass Prevention---Prodiamine (cheaper over time)-- use large droplet sprayer tip to put onto the ground.
Crabgrass killer--DriveXLR8 (Quinclorac)--mix with MSO and use mist spray tip to get post emergent onto the weed leaves.
Poa elimination--Velocity PM available as of March 2024 if you can get it (expensive but effective)
Hope this helps.
@@slowjett7343 I spot sprayed some POA areas with Image, the instructions said use 4 oz for 1 gallon but it seemed to strong everything turned yellow after a few days, I'm kinda Leary about spraying any more , I'm in California.
Slowjett's got some good info in his comment - just remember crabgrass germinates in the Spring. If you apply straight dithiopyr or prodiamine or pendimethalin now you will prevent it's germination and if any breaks through anyway by July/August you can apply straight quinclorac to kill it off before it goes to seed. Just make sure to attack it on a cooler summer day. If you look closely at the label of the product I showed in this video it uses Dithiopyr and has quinclorac on the active ingredient list along with the fertilizer. The active ingredients are the right ones to use for everything but the timing is convoluted. As for POA it germinates in the fall and dies off naturally by late spring usually so the weed and feed isn't actually killing it; it's simply at the end of it's life cycle this time of year. If you want to prevent that then a second well-timed application of pre-emergent in the fall will do the trick. For a lot of extra help with pre-emergent timing in the spring see this blog post I put together earlier this year: turfmechanic.com/when-to-apply-pre-emergent-table-by-usa-city/
Thanks for the Velocity PM mention. I'll have to give that a look soon.
What about a liquid weednfeed?
Better..Add a little baby shampoo
@@bradleyrounds9148 does that allow it to stick to plant better?
@craigros5
Yes. There's a PBS YT vid of an old guy with a DIY spray fertilizer and weed killer. The soap helps it stick too plants (killer) and acts as an adjuvant to help penatrate the soil by reducing water surface tension (fert)
Jerry Baker the guy
@@bradleyrounds9148 love it will add in baby shampoo.