AFTER Growing Grass From Seed DO THIS
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Once you manage to grow new grass from seed then the fun really begins. This is what I am doing to my newest patch of grass after my seed germinated two weeks ago and my new lawn started growing vigorously.
► Grow better grass roots:
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::: Products I Used And/Or Recommend :::
► Tenacity (Mesotrione)
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► Generic Mesotrione (MESO 4SC Select)
shrsl.com/365rn
► Sulphate Of Potash (Potassium Only)
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► Ironite
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► Other Products I Use And Recommend Frequently
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::: Resources :::
► How I Seeded A New Lawn In Only 10 Days
• Grow A NEW LAWN From S...
► When To Stop Watering New Grass Seed
• When To Stop Watering ...
► When To Mow New Grass From Seed
• When To Mow New Grass ...
► Another Big Reason Why Soil Tests Are Helpful
• Soil Tests Are Worth I...
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Hey Brian. This was a good video that educates in a specific area that is not often discussed on UA-cam.
Hey!
That Rye is sure looking good. I run a 50% RPR and 50% HGT (bluegrass) mix and my lawn is way dark green.
Anyway… even tho my P is high like yours, I will through down a little P because the P in the soil may be all locked up and not viable to the plant. I will use a little starter fert with my high P and my P level keeps going down each year. Anyway, love your new lawn. You rock!
Where can you buy pure RPR? I use Barenbrug Turf Star which is about 65% RPR.
Quite a few benefits to delaying the application of starter fertilizer. High salt index fertilizers can delay seed germination. It's something I've never heard any of the lawn UA-camrs talk about, however it's well documented in university research. And by putting the fertilizer down at seeding, a good portion of nitrogen is used up or or dissipated by the time the grass seed germinates. I understand why people do it though, most don't want to be walking around on new grass or just like to do everything all at once.
I put the starter fert down at the same time because that’s what the instructions on the bag said to do. I put peat moss on top of both. I’m brand new at this game trying to do a reno. About 15 in now, have pretty good grow as in height, but thin. Would it be bad to put down starter fert again? Idk if that runs the risk of killing it?
@@BMW18013 Just make sure it's getting enough water, that's far more important than fertilizer. It will thicken up with time. Don't fertilize new grass if the temperatures are above 80*F.
In the same boat. Seems Phosphorous will never leave the soil
Dam, y'all make doing yards look so easy!! Then I start my 22,000sq foot renovation. Holy sheep shit!! I wish I only had 5,000aq ft. Everything would be ALOT cheaper and easier. Lawn care is underrated.. that some serious work. All the steps are very time consuming. But I went all out. I hope it all pays off.
a few days ago I started pre-soaking some seed to try and fill in a few spots that didn't take in last year's plantings, this is my first _serious_ attempt at wetting/germinating grass seed before it is down on the soil(I did it once with old seed that didn't seem to want to start, to re-apply and give it a boost, but I also put down fresh dry seed - so hard to tell which worked) but I did this method in this case for two reasons: 1) I knew a cold snap was coming, but don't have the time to wait till after it passes for the earliest spring seeding possible ... and 2) I don't want to water a whole yard for weeks every few hours to just keep some random spots moist as I wait for the seed to start sprouting
this is the same Fescues/KBG seed mix I used in this higher traffic sun/shade area last year, and I think these spots didn't take because of temps(too hot or then too cold in the random fall weather, with very dry changing to flooded) or damage from use(before the seed came up, or just after on the young sprouts) but hopefully using this pre-soaking method how you did the lawn section shown in this video will cut down on the critical exposure time of trying to keep soil moist and warm of the early planting process - as I can just change the water in the bucket kept inside every day; plus it is pretty cool that one of the seed brands I get locally comes in an outer cloth bag, that is perfect to use to hold the seed in the water bucket once you take the plastic inner bag out(I knew I saved those cloth bags for something!)
anyway, as soon as I can get these spots patched, I will start this process all over again on the larger area that I'm leveling; but it is going to be the exact seed type and methods that are shown here(I think I even have the same push reel mower in the video) so really great to see all the updates, very helpful, thanks!
[edit] actually got a little snow the other day in Iowa and freeze warnings, which before that it was reaching up into the 80F degree days; but now after a somewhat back to warmer 50~60F today and yesterday, they now forecast what looks like yet another week of coldness to come .... this might screw up my pre-soaked germination planting, if I leave the seed in the water too long? as I was only planning to soak for about a week, or *is it okay to soak for two weeks?* - but on the other hand soil temps should still be good
I know this is old, but, you don’t soak for the entirety of the germinating process.
The soak is a 24 hr day 1 soak.
Then 24 hrs out of water, however, you do want to ensure the seeds are moist the entire time.
Then, day 3 basically and beyond is a rinse basically once or potentially twice depending on ur temps and humidity levels to ensure the seeds stay moist.
Then the second you notice a sprout get em on soil.
You can obviously just do this however many days you wanna cut down the germinating process on the ground.
I.e. take seed from bag and spread will be like 10 to 14 days of constant watering to ensure they are moist and good.
Do this process for even 5 days, you now have 5 to 7 days of watering cutting that cost in half ya know.
Additionally, if you wait until it about to sprout or just barely doing so, the. You can go right to watering 3 times n then 2 n so one very quickly to a normal amount that you will be able to tell visually how much water you need as the new grass will be ur source of knowing it needs water or not.
Point is, this does a much better job of germinating but also grows grass quicker, technically not as ur using the first few days of watering in a bucket rather time consuming sprinklers or hose or whatever.
This method is absolutely proven I think most seed companies don’t advertise it as theyd rather you buy more seeds when you screw it up lol.
It’s also difficult to explain to most people who truly just want a drop and water product
G'Day Brian, the grass is really looking great can't wait to see your main lawn area looking as good
Oh Tony I can't wait. I haven't showed it in a couple weeks now, partially because I applied Sulfosulfuron to it to kill off poa and stress the fescue there. It's looking so bad now with the discoloration and different heights as that active ingredient inhibits growth in the target unwanted foliage. It'll be worth it in a few weeks. I knew ghis would happen too so its not suprising just unsightly. Vid will be out in a week or less (probably) showing the carnage but I can't help but wish I had had a warmer sunnier winter to have made more progress on it by now.
@@TurfMechanic Hey Brian can't wait to see your lawn in month's time sure it will be growing well and I'll probably be freezing in our winter😂
Damn I want your mower!! Looks satisfying
not going to lie, that overgrown cut with the reel mower was pretty sweet!
@@TurfMechanicwhat is that little rotary mower called? I want one!
love all your vids 🙌🙌
I like the thinking here. Enjoyed the video.
much appreciated!
I put down 13-13-13 in my front lawn. Gonna do back Lawn in about a month Mid May >
Looks good, I seeded a new spot approximately the size you did and used ryegrass grass and kentucky blue watering it twice a day a good amount of water and covered it with straws but still don't see nothing yet
Soil test, soil rest, soil test. It’s a lawn, why are people not sowing lawns and then keeping them year on year, mini golf course ye have
I hope my new lawn grows, cheers for the info bro😊
I like to follow the renovation guide from The Lawn Forum.
I had to bag the first clippings due to weeds that came with the seeds i suspect. anyways did what you did and reseeded but threw some top soil on it.
Looking good brother
5:40 it's a stretch to say smarter, saying more well informed makes sense. Although there is a point to be argued that informing yourself preemptively does make you smarter
Thanks for the education bruh... what or do you need a grass seed fertilizer for the seeds or not necessary...thank you!
I love you videos. Thank you so much. Can you tell me, once you are watering once per day as you say in this video, when is the best time of day to do that one time watering?
Thank you
Peter
thanks a lot for the compliment, glad you enjoy them. As for one time per day watering it would ideally be before dawn with the cycle ending at sunup. If sun rises at 5:30am then I would start the cycle early enough for it to run and finish right at 5:30. This usually minimizes water loss and still allows the leaf blades to dry off during daylight hours. Here's a somewhat long video I put out last year on watering if you haven't seen it: ua-cam.com/video/oLXN8oQhYm0/v-deo.html
@@TurfMechanic Thank you so much for the speedy response. Much appreciated. Would watering that early cause to much evaporation and the water would be dried by the sun before it is beneficial to the new lawn? Do you think watering once a day early afternoon around 1:00 p.m. would be okay?
Decided to put grass seed down all over my bare soil garden…. I have started to see germination over the past two days after 7 days however I used a fair amount of seed but it’s coming through patchy… shall I wait until it’s more established before adding further seed down? Or do I need to wait until it’s a certain length. Cut it then add further grass seed. Any advice would be much appreciated🙏🏻
6:41 same!
🤓
Good info. What do you think of fertilizers like Milorganite?
Can you put down the Scotts triple action at the same time as laying the seed?
Hey man. Great videos. Can you make a video on how to overseed? I have kikuyu and live in Socal. I read tall fescue is a good grass to mix with kikuyu to have a green lawn year round.
Thanks for the update. You mentioned not applying more phosphorous, is there a potential harm in giving too much of it to a lawn?
I think it’s more just a waste of money. I don’t think it will hurt having a bit more
What brand of mower are you using in this video?
Okay, when should i cut my grass after seeding?
Thoughts on espoma irontone vs ironite?
You kind of contradicted yourself. You said early on that you allow the grass clippings to fall onto the soil after you reseed the thin spots, and it helps the new grass germinate. Later in the video you said these grass clippings will help stop weed seed germination. How does the grass clippings help one seed type to grow and disallow another seed type from doing the same thing? I tend to bag the clippings for the first mowing or two until the grass has established a little to get full sunlight to the soil and new blades of grass to help those seeds that take a few more days to germinate. Once the blades are a little higher, I don't mind grass clippings falling back on the soil.
Ignore this - I paused the video and 2 seconds after I paused you brought up Mesotrione (Tenacity). I used this on my 600 sq. ft. test patch of Rye and Midnight KBG and it worked great. I had almost zero weeds, at first. You can't do a second application until 30 days after the initial application, so you have about 10 days of no protection. In this period goosegrass invaded, but around day 30 I applied another round of Mesotrione and it killed the tender goosegrass and most other weeds since they were so young and tender. Did you put down Mesotrione at the time of seeding?
Wow, your soil test looks almost exactly like my soil test in my back yard. Your Mn (mines is really high) and pH is better, but your iron and potassium are almost exactly matching mine.
How long after baby grass has grown can you apply tenacity?
I’ve heard around 30 days after germination
Label says 4 weeks.
per label you apply at time of seeding or 4 weeks (two mows) after seedling emergence. I tend to not apply at time of seeding and usually apply a couple weeks after seedling emergence. This might slow the new grass a bit but I'd rather do it this way then apply on day 1 and day 28. Different grass types are more or less tollerant of tenacity though, fine fescues I've sprayed on and I probably won't do that again even though it didn't kill it all off. Here's the label that you could read deeply into if you like: www.domyown.com/msds/Tenacity_Herbicide_Label_2020.pdf
When should you start the first mow for couch?
couch otherwise known as bermuda should be mowed early IMO to encourage as much lateral spread and density as possible. If it's new from seed then make sure to use a sharp reel mower to not uproot it or a sharp rotary mower on the lowest setting if you don't have a reel. If it's sod or plugs then you can start mowing once the canopy starts growing which might only take a few days in great conditions.
@TurfMechanic Could you do the early Bermuda mows with just a weedeater to avoid running a pushmower over the young grass? (Planted from seed)
I have a question about weeds that grew with our new lawn. What do I do before I mow?
Imo your best options are to hand pluck what you can, then spray mesotrione on the area if you are up for using a product of that sort (look for tenacity on amazon), and then spray iron based herbicides (active ingredient is FeHEDTA) so long as your baby grass has been growing for at least 7-10 days. Baby weeds are easy to kill but you can't use traditional herbicides on baby grass without damaging or killing it.
What height should you cut new grass seed?
I personally like to cut my new grass super short for the first month to encourage lower to the ground leafing and then gradually allow the lawn to grow up to my eventual desired height. Last year I seeded a project lawn I documented on the channel well with tall fescue in May, I still cut that grass around 1.5" for the first month before letting it get up closer to 2" by month two, and eventually around 3-3.5" by month four. You don't have to take my approach though, it's perfectly fine to just start cutting baby grass at your ultimate desired height right out of the gate. Many sprouts will grow tall fast once they sprout and they can easily start laying over under the weight so don't wait too long to start cutting once baby grass gets up past 2-3 inches.
I think it's 4 inches. At least that's what I did, and I well for my lawn.
Sorry, my lawn is a tall fescue lawn. It'll probably be different if you're growing different seeds.
definitely a good approach for tall fescue especially if it's continuing to stand tall at that height in it's earliest stage of life.
My lawn is in dire need of repair, it’s June, is it too late to start the repair with airation, weed/bug killer, seeding, topsoil, etc…? I’m really anxious to fix this lawn, I’m in TX with Bermuda grass
I just answered this on your other comment. If it was me I'd get started right away. Bermuda thrives in summer so this is the time to push it. Add in fert to the mix too to push the existing grass to spread a bit. Good luck!
@@TurfMechanic thanx for advice and your channel, im just starting in my lawn care and your videos are a major help! Thank you for all your efforts with the vid’s👍
@@TheGlider40 always glad to help, don't hesitate to reach out anytime with questions
Hey Brian, would you recommend tttf for an area that gets snow 4.5(a lot)months with below zero temps with an altitude of just below 2k feet?
I planted tttf on my project lawn last year in Klamath Falls or, 4000 ft and snow from November through April. It can work just fine in these areas. Project lawn series is dubbed Phil's lawn if you want to find the playlist.
@@TurfMechanic thanks so much Brian. I’ll definitely watch it
My soil is low in Nitrogen and Phosphorus
most lawns are low in plant available nitrogen, microbial life in the soil transforms unavailable nitrogen into plant available nitrogen so the more healthy biology exist in your lawn the more nitrogen becomes available to the plants naturally throughout the year. In the interim adding extra nitrogen and in your case phosphorus can help thicken up a lawn. Milorganite is a good add of nitrogen and Phos but also I use Lawnbox products, the Fall Fix product is a 5-5-5 mix of NP and K. Otherwise a cheaper synthetic blend of locally sold fertilizer should be fine for you, just stick with anything balanced or higher in phosphorus. No need to go crazy though, starter fertilizers are high in phos but you probably don't need that high concentration rate for an established lawn.
How long will the lime green color stay with the rye? Doing the same in nj.
Annual rye stays light green.
@@TofuInc I’ve got perennial, forgot to mention that..
as Tofulnc said it will stay light green as it's annual rye but I'm curious if the ironite will give it a noticeably deeper green color. I've never managed a lawn space of just annual rye before so I'm trying to learn something here too. PR won't take too long to achieve a deep green. I seeded a small space of PR last year in late Spring early summer and I swear it was just as dark as my established lawn in only a month. Here's the vid where I seeded the space: ua-cam.com/video/Pf2xNYdPo-I/v-deo.html and here's the vid showing that same lawn space at day 17 ua-cam.com/video/PtY_v6dq0Sw/v-deo.html at the 6 min mark you can see the new perennial rye at the bottom of the hill already looks roughly the same green color as the main lawn next to it.
Do you remember your seeding rate per 1000 feet?
I went a little more dense than normal since my space is only around 300 sqft and I anticipate a lot of heat coming in the next 45 days or so. I think I did around 12 lbs per 1k which is something I wouldn't probably do for a larger lawn space or if I was using a perennial grass. Even those thin spots in the lawn I showed in the vid would probably fill in pretty good in another month as they add new leafs to each plant and after I start cutting the grass slightly taller...which is why less dense seeding is just fine for most lawns.
Mowing once a day? Yeah right! Lmfao! Lolololololol
you sure don't need to go that extreme but if you want the best lawn possible (dense turf) then that's the goal, daily or close to daily for those first weeks or months a new lawn is growing. If you mow that often then in subsequent years your lawn will be so thick that you'll need to water way less frequently and you won't have to mow nearly as often if you don't want to.
No, No. You're doing it all wrong.
I mean, if you're going to correct someone you might as well explain how they're wrong, and the correct methods they should be using. Not just vague disagreement.
Yes yes, he's right lol.......i don't even know what you're referring to, but see how easy it is to just blurt out statements with no context 😂😂
Cutting that grass at the beginning was orgasmic
Lol, im not going to lie...it felt really good 😁
If i threw down fert just before the snow last year should i still fertilize after snow melt or wait a month?