Everyone has heart failure over some small blemishes in the cyl. bores these days. On the farm we did work like this in the barn on a dirt floor with the 3 stone hone like you had there. There were no ball hones back then. Sometimes we actually bought new pistons mostly not, we would use a STD cast iron file to fit ring set and file them to the standard .004" per cyl. inch rule and buy a set of +.001" rod and main bearings and Sand the crank a little with wet and dry paper and some WD and a shoe lace or something handy (shoe laces weren't cheap and we used them till they were junk) and then polish the crank with some simichrome polish etc. and put her back together to run many more years. As you say i't depends on the intended use of the engine. I have done 389 Pontiacs and 350 Chevys and Austin-Healeys and Sunbeam and MG etc. engines like that without a problem/ The worse the economy gets the more you will see this. I'm building a 350 right now. Just to have the block boiled and cam bearings and fereeze plugs removed and tolerances checked was $240 and it took him 6 weeks to do it. I was going to go .030" and he said another 6 weeks. I said nope!!! brought it home and i'll ball hone it and run STD file to fit rings and new pistons and rods and all new bearings etc. and cam bearings. It was going to be over $1k for just the block machine work and the heads would have been close to that so I bought some Alum. AFRs when it's all said and done. I could have called Blueprint Engines and had a brand new engine with a dyno chart for the same price or just a little more deliver to the house.
On a lower performance engines with lower compression, you can usually get away with more pitting in the bore than people might expect. When I come up on this problem I learned to keep honing until you were right up against the edge of spec and long as the pits were still visible. If the pits are still visible after the last hone, but you cant catch it with your fingernail, they are .0005 or less, if you can't catch it with your finger tip, but you can with your nail then it's between .001 and .0005. This is likely fine for most engines. And even if some of the pits are deeper, but there aren't too many, the engine will likely be fine for low performance applications like daily drive, farm truck and tractor.
You can also do the ring light test You place a ring sqared to the bore place a light on the crank side and see how much tight shine around the bore No light tight fit to the wall
Great video, and excellent try to save these engines. I to am dealing with a ceased 430 out of my 69 Wildcat Coupe. It sat since 1990 so 32 years of sitting didn't help the big block. Some pitting in the #2 cylinder wall was present and that was the only piston stuck in the cylinder, the other ones come out relatively easy. Con rods were still moving freely on pistons. I haven't gotten around using a ball hone yet or a 3 stone hone. It'll be 2022/23 winter project. Hopefully up and running by the spring of 2023. Again love your videos on these particular engines. Your tips and tricks on these blocks is great knowledge and I'm absorbing it like a sponge. Lol
Best to try Cleaning up the cylinders before boring it out. Great video Dallas! Thanks!! I've got to break open my 396 BB virgin motor and see where I'm at with 👍
I recently tore mine apart, it was locked up but the rust wasn't terrible, I noticed the oil passage to the heads was already blocked off (car has sat since the late 70s) I'm trying to figure out what rockers and pushrods I need
I have a 383 chrysler bare block that I had in an old land yacht that I put on a stand and left it out in the yard for about 8 years, uncovered. A few weeks ago I had a wild idea and decided to bring it in my little shop. The block was bored .040 already, and a year or 2 ago I had honed it and greased the bores but still let it sit. After I started working on it last week, I honed the cylinders again, and was surprised how good most of them looked. Since I'm going to put forged pistons back in it, I'm going to "TRY" to get away with honing it to spec. 3 of the cylinders are almost as bad as the bad one you have, not quite thst bad, but bad enough, but hopefully honeable. I think with the 2 or 3 more thousandths I need for the forged pistons, I can get away with honing. I've found that some of them are 2 to 3 thousandths out of round, so I'm pushing the hone to the tight side and rechecked, and it seems to be working. If I had cylinders like the one you showed with the small pit, and all I was going to do was make it a running driver, I would definitely use the block as is, but that one bad one I wouldn't let it go and would just bore it. Unless you hone it and get .010 clearance and don't care about piston slap.
I needed an engine and my friend had one that needed to be rebuilt stuffed in the corner of his garage I talked him into selling it to me he couldn't believe I wanted to run it how it was I cleaned it up and he had a gasket kit so i threw it together went to the NMRA race and went runner up with it only because I red lighted on the last run otherwise I would have won the whole event . thanks for your video 👍
Have you tried using Crisco cooking oil to hone with? Its heavy enough to float the abrasive metal sliurry yet it not so light that it flings off. it is a close viscosity to Sunnen honing oil yet avalable every where. I find Marvel mystery oil to be very effective on cylinder clean up and rust prevention
This is why it's so frustrating when guys pull old engines and leave them outside or leave hoods open or off parts cars without covering the engine. A lot of the time if the engine wasn't too badly abused, and just has high miles, you can often just re-hone the bores and they will still be in spec. Same thing with the cranks. A lot of the time you can just home polish the journals and the plastiguage will still show in spec and long as water doesn't get in.
I bought an chevy k1500 for 500 running and driving. The guy made a comment about the engine being junk, not thinking Id hear him. For that reason after getting a lot more f use out of that truck I parted it out. I wanted to see why he said junk, so I pulled the heads off, and saw one cylinder like the one in your motor. Never smoked, never had any problems with it, even with that much pitting
Its maybe the last time Lol, saving money is cool but the clearance is what decides it . Pits no big deal. Wavy and tapered and loose is no good. Almost any cheap overhaul will last a while but time is money so get it good the first time. Proper clearances and very clean.
I really wanted to see if there was anything left to work with. I have since bored the block .060 over and am getting ready to reassemble it on the show. It's called the Give an "F" 430
If you measure the bores out of round and taper you will find it's usually out of spec. Even without the corrosion if you reringed this the motor would run but have piston rattle and be noisy due to piston wear and clearances
Are you trying to determine if the Buick V8 HEI Distributor will fit the engine? If so, the deck height increase of the 4.4 Leyland should help with clearance. I know it's difficult to get one to fit a 215 Buick (same as Rover V8), but the later Buick V8 HEI fits the 300 Buick just fine. The 300 Buick has virtually a 9.5" deck height, the Leyland has a 9.65" deck height from what I can find... this tells me it has a distinct chance of fitting as easily as the Buick 300. I have no idea if the water crossover would be in the way in regards to how its plumbed, but if it looks anything similar to the 300 Buick... it should work just fine.
if it's going to only get 250 miles a year , are the little pits that big of a deal , if it's not for the Suburban put it back with new rings don't look back
There are pistons available, was hoping I could save the bores without taking it out more. I don't have much of an option after finding that REALLY bad bore on #5 Cylinder.
There's plenty enough meat on those cylinders to go 30 over and even after that it can still be boared out way more than 30 and I've seen worse than that put together with no problems 🤣🤣🤣🤣 like you said the old timers would throw anything together and it would work most of the time
Yes, it can be bored easily. That was not the point of the video. I wanted to see if it could be saved without boring it... there are not any new 1967 430 blocks out there. Keeping what you have is important if possible. In this case, you are right... it had to be bored. That last cylinder was not salvageable.
Very interesting boring is needed but i do not think Crazy numbers 30 if pistons are available some pitting is Or can be a good thing if not too far with the wight fuels and Care even small pitting can go a long ways this is interesting i will look for the next video UA-cam is not working right not can not mark Thumbs up so i'll tell you go for-it
I don't use scotchbrite much anywhere, unless cleaning the pistons. The cylinder I normally clean with engine degreaser or kerosene and then wipe it out with a shop towel. Then you start honing.
you get a glase buster to take the surface rust off then use a delapena hone 2 stones 2 guides it will show up any high low areas instantly pitting on the lower part of the bore dont matter so much 2 strokes have big pitting but run ok
Go ahead, clean up the pistons, free the rings and pins, throw it back together with new bearings and oil pump and see how it works. I know of an engine that had pitting in the cylinders like your 430 that made 660hp and nearly 700ftlbs.... for the Engine Master's competition. I have a Pontiac 400 short block I got from a machine shop that was closing, no spun bearings, no broken parts, so I think its a good candidate for a dirt cheap rebuild. Thankfully its not stuck, but its full of carbon and dirt from sitting for years. I've had it sitting on a stand since 2008. Maybe rings, definitely bearings and an oil pimp, one of the used cams I have sitting around, used Comp springs, and the $200 set of big valve heads from a 1969 400. Basically it would be a RA III. I would build it and throw it in a vehicle for the #nonamenationals but I can only pull one car at a time on my trailer.. and a trailer is mandatory since its a 14 hour drive from my house to the track. Gotta sleep in the truck while I am there too.. lol. I need more subs, I hit 360 a couple nights ago, then ten dropped off, and Im back up to 357 today. It might be my sense of humor....
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I'd still give it a try, as long as you don't chuck parts around inside it could be a fun experiment, see how bad it can be and still run. Come on man, Tony would run it...ok if it were an LA not a 430.
Everyone has heart failure over some small blemishes in the cyl. bores these days. On the farm we did work like this in the barn on a dirt floor with the 3 stone hone like you had there. There were no ball hones back then. Sometimes we actually bought new pistons mostly not, we would use a STD cast iron file to fit ring set and file them to the standard .004" per cyl. inch rule and buy a set of +.001" rod and main bearings and Sand the crank a little with wet and dry paper and some WD and a shoe lace or something handy (shoe laces weren't cheap and we used them till they were junk) and then polish the crank with some simichrome polish etc. and put her back together to run many more years. As you say i't depends on the intended use of the engine. I have done 389 Pontiacs and 350 Chevys and Austin-Healeys and Sunbeam and MG etc. engines like that without a problem/ The worse the economy gets the more you will see this. I'm building a 350 right now. Just to have the block boiled and cam bearings and fereeze plugs removed and tolerances checked was $240 and it took him 6 weeks to do it. I was going to go .030" and he said another 6 weeks. I said nope!!! brought it home and i'll ball hone it and run STD file to fit rings and new pistons and rods and all new bearings etc. and cam bearings. It was going to be over $1k for just the block machine work and the heads would have been close to that so I bought some Alum. AFRs when it's all said and done. I could have called Blueprint Engines and had a brand new engine with a dyno chart for the same price or just a little more deliver to the house.
Man, I hope you passed this knowledge on.
On a lower performance engines with lower compression, you can usually get away with more pitting in the bore than people might expect. When I come up on this problem I learned to keep honing until you were right up against the edge of spec and long as the pits were still visible. If the pits are still visible after the last hone, but you cant catch it with your fingernail, they are .0005 or less, if you can't catch it with your finger tip, but you can with your nail then it's between .001 and .0005. This is likely fine for most engines. And even if some of the pits are deeper, but there aren't too many, the engine will likely be fine for low performance applications like daily drive, farm truck and tractor.
You can also do the ring light test You place a ring sqared to the bore place a light on the crank side and see how much tight shine around the bore No light tight fit to the wall
Great video, and excellent try to save these engines. I to am dealing with a ceased 430 out of my 69 Wildcat Coupe.
It sat since 1990 so 32 years of sitting didn't help the big block. Some pitting in the #2 cylinder wall was present and that was the only piston stuck in the cylinder, the other ones come out relatively easy. Con rods were still moving freely on pistons. I haven't gotten around using a ball hone yet or a 3 stone hone. It'll be 2022/23 winter project. Hopefully up and running by the spring of 2023. Again love your videos on these particular engines. Your tips and tricks on these blocks is great knowledge and I'm absorbing it like a sponge. Lol
Thank you for trying this angle before automatically hauling it to the machine shop. I'm looking at a 4 cylinder that's been idle for 8yrs.
Give it a try! I got 7 of the 8 to clean up and that block sat for 25 years.
Best to try Cleaning up the cylinders before boring it out. Great video Dallas! Thanks!!
I've got to break open my 396 BB virgin motor and see where I'm at with 👍
Sound effects on point dude lol
I downloaded them from Microsoft, their quality is slipping!
Buddy! MAD RESPECT! Emplying a drill motor with an extreme speech impediment is very kind of you!😂😅
Great video sir!
Thanks Dallas ,keep on keeping on you're doing a Great job!
I recently tore mine apart, it was locked up but the rust wasn't terrible, I noticed the oil passage to the heads was already blocked off (car has sat since the late 70s) I'm trying to figure out what rockers and pushrods I need
If it’s a 400 or 430, run the stock stuff. It’s the best combo from GM originally.
I have a 383 chrysler bare block that I had in an old land yacht that I put on a stand and left it out in the yard for about 8 years, uncovered. A few weeks ago I had a wild idea and decided to bring it in my little shop. The block was bored .040 already, and a year or 2 ago I had honed it and greased the bores but still let it sit. After I started working on it last week, I honed the cylinders again, and was surprised how good most of them looked. Since I'm going to put forged pistons back in it, I'm going to "TRY" to get away with honing it to spec. 3 of the cylinders are almost as bad as the bad one you have, not quite thst bad, but bad enough, but hopefully honeable. I think with the 2 or 3 more thousandths I need for the forged pistons, I can get away with honing. I've found that some of them are 2 to 3 thousandths out of round, so I'm pushing the hone to the tight side and rechecked, and it seems to be working. If I had cylinders like the one you showed with the small pit, and all I was going to do was make it a running driver, I would definitely use the block as is, but that one bad one I wouldn't let it go and would just bore it. Unless you hone it and get .010 clearance and don't care about piston slap.
I needed an engine and my friend had one that needed to be rebuilt stuffed in the corner of his garage I talked him into selling it to me he couldn't believe I wanted to run it how it was I cleaned it up and he had a gasket kit so i threw it together went to the NMRA race and went runner up with it only because I red lighted on the last run otherwise I would have won the whole event . thanks for your video 👍
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing. That's what I'm about. It ain't all about the money.
@@BigMikesHooptyBarn just subbed good luck getting your numbers up for your channel
@@terrygrover6440 Thanks so much!
Just wondering what size ball hone u used? I have the same engine that's been out side for years trying to rebuild on a budget
Have you tried using Crisco cooking oil to hone with? Its heavy enough to float the abrasive metal sliurry yet it not so light that it flings off. it is a close viscosity to Sunnen honing oil yet avalable every where. I find Marvel mystery oil to be very effective on cylinder clean up and rust prevention
This is why it's so frustrating when guys pull old engines and leave them outside or leave hoods open or off parts cars without covering the engine. A lot of the time if the engine wasn't too badly abused, and just has high miles, you can often just re-hone the bores and they will still be in spec. Same thing with the cranks. A lot of the time you can just home polish the journals and the plastiguage will still show in spec and long as water doesn't get in.
Plug the bore with a plumbing test plug. Set it upright. Fill with evaporust. Wait a day. Drain and then hone
Worst case you can just sleeve that one cylinder and bore it to match the others if they are .030
When times were hard I wouldn't have hesitated to rering and run it depends on your budget and as you said purpose of the motor
The times are hard, have you looked at the prices of everything. And it isn't going to get better.
I bought an chevy k1500 for 500 running and driving. The guy made a comment about the engine being junk, not thinking Id hear him. For that reason after getting a lot more f use out of that truck I parted it out. I wanted to see why he said junk, so I pulled the heads off, and saw one cylinder like the one in your motor. Never smoked, never had any problems with it, even with that much pitting
SEND IT!!!!!!!!
good info Dallas, always worth a shot if you got the tools anyways, at least you know exactly the condition of the bores!
exactly!
What size is the clean bore now, in speck or not?
I had it bored .060 over and sent it out the door a while ago.
Its maybe the last time Lol, saving money is cool but the clearance is what decides it . Pits no big deal. Wavy and tapered and loose is no good. Almost any cheap overhaul will last a while but time is money so get it good the first time. Proper clearances and very clean.
I really wanted to see if there was anything left to work with. I have since bored the block .060 over and am getting ready to reassemble it on the show. It's called the Give an "F" 430
Oh, hey Dallas. Didn't know about this channel. I'm subbin.
Has anyone heated the ceased pistons with a propane torch then cooled quickly with cold water , the expansion and contraction could free the pistons.
Do you have any Buick 300 or 340 heads kicking around? you want to get rid of?
I sure do! email me at dallas@ahraonline.com
Thanks for the Sub Dallas! I'm idling right now but I'll be back on track shortly! Glad to see you're feeling better!
Hey so I just subscribed to your channel and have a few questions
What do you have?
Dingle ball the hell out of it and send it!
Mr Roooooder! 🤘
Yeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaahhhhssss!
That thing would run just fine for years
If the piston bore oout of round and taper clearances are in spec agree, or it would be noisy and rattle
If you measure the bores out of round and taper you will find it's usually out of spec. Even without the corrosion if you reringed this the motor would run but have piston rattle and be noisy due to piston wear and clearances
Subbed, ill start getting caught up on your vids!
I need help . I am rebuilding a Leyland 4.4 V8 Trying to find out about HEI Distributor size.
Are you trying to determine if the Buick V8 HEI Distributor will fit the engine? If so, the deck height increase of the 4.4 Leyland should help with clearance. I know it's difficult to get one to fit a 215 Buick (same as Rover V8), but the later Buick V8 HEI fits the 300 Buick just fine. The 300 Buick has virtually a 9.5" deck height, the Leyland has a 9.65" deck height from what I can find... this tells me it has a distinct chance of fitting as easily as the Buick 300. I have no idea if the water crossover would be in the way in regards to how its plumbed, but if it looks anything similar to the 300 Buick... it should work just fine.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I can take a Photo o Front timing case/water pump for you . Can i post it here . were to send it
PS thanks for your Reply
just too bad for me to run but it did clean up better than i thought
It's too bad for me to run also. Thought I'd give it a try, cost nothing but some elbow grease.
Just sleeve the bad two and then you could re-use pistons?
I broke 4 pistons getting them out. It will need new pistons either way I go. It's cheaper to just bore than sleeve it.
I think you can add sleeves to the bad ones...keep them the same size.
Just Subscribed
Thanks so much for subscribing! I hope you enjoy it!
if it's going to only get 250 miles a year , are the little pits that big of a deal , if it's not for the Suburban put it back with new rings don't look back
It was the backup for the Burb, but with the extra costs in machine work...it will likely be up for sale after reassembly.
Dallas maybe board 10 th. Custom pistons from auto Tec.they make any piston pretty fast.got custom piston for my Pontiac 2.5
There are pistons available, was hoping I could save the bores without taking it out more. I don't have much of an option after finding that REALLY bad bore on #5 Cylinder.
You wouldn't need a few 430s and 455s? I used to run them in a Vega. I have several that should be decent cores
I’m always needing them. Depends where you are.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Central Nebraska here, you're in Illinois? if I remember right
@@Raycr no I’m in Tennessee. Near Nashville.
Good Video
Great informative video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
There's plenty enough meat on those cylinders to go 30 over and even after that it can still be boared out way more than 30 and I've seen worse than that put together with no problems 🤣🤣🤣🤣 like you said the old timers would throw anything together and it would work most of the time
Yes, it can be bored easily. That was not the point of the video. I wanted to see if it could be saved without boring it... there are not any new 1967 430 blocks out there. Keeping what you have is important if possible. In this case, you are right... it had to be bored. That last cylinder was not salvageable.
add a sleeve.
Run it. Let's see wat we can get away with
Machine dye would help
Yes a ball hone does not show imperfections, but if you absolutely are not boring, its the way to go
long time no see ? everthing ok ?
Everything is fine. I'm trying to get the AHRA Racing Season and rulebook together and I'll be back at it!
I sure hope engines are around in 50yrs
It won’t be an issue, there will be plenty to go around. New ones are being made every day.
Very interesting boring is needed but i do not think Crazy numbers 30 if pistons are available some pitting is Or can be a good thing if not too far with the wight fuels and Care even small pitting can go a long ways this is interesting i will look for the next video UA-cam is not working right not can not mark Thumbs up so i'll tell you go for-it
Why not hone it to .030 and save $$$?
That's not possible if I want to keep the bore straight. It's best to bore it at a machine shop to have a true and straight bore.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Thanks.
UTG can kick rocks😂😂😂😂
How clean do you have to get it with a scotchbrite or something before you hone?
I don't use scotchbrite much anywhere, unless cleaning the pistons. The cylinder I normally clean with engine degreaser or kerosene and then wipe it out with a shop towel. Then you start honing.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Ok so you can hone with some crud on the cylinder walls? Its ok for it to not be squeaky clean before you go at it?
scotchbrite embeds abrasive in aloominum and you end up with a self lapping piston
you get a glase buster to take the surface rust off then use a delapena hone 2 stones 2 guides it will show up any high low areas instantly pitting on the lower part of the bore dont matter so much
2 strokes have big pitting but run ok
Go ahead, clean up the pistons, free the rings and pins, throw it back together with new bearings and oil pump and see how it works. I know of an engine that had pitting in the cylinders like your 430 that made 660hp and nearly 700ftlbs.... for the Engine Master's competition.
I have a Pontiac 400 short block I got from a machine shop that was closing, no spun bearings, no broken parts, so I think its a good candidate for a dirt cheap rebuild. Thankfully its not stuck, but its full of carbon and dirt from sitting for years. I've had it sitting on a stand since 2008. Maybe rings, definitely bearings and an oil pimp, one of the used cams I have sitting around, used Comp springs, and the $200 set of big valve heads from a 1969 400. Basically it would be a RA III.
I would build it and throw it in a vehicle for the #nonamenationals but I can only pull one car at a time on my trailer.. and a trailer is mandatory since its a 14 hour drive from my house to the track. Gotta sleep in the truck while I am there too.. lol. I need more subs, I hit 360 a couple nights ago, then ten dropped off, and Im back up to 357 today.
It might be my sense of humor....
It will not happen, watch the video to the end. I find a cylinder that has caverns large enough to hide a family of rabbits.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I'd still give it a try, as long as you don't chuck parts around inside it could be a fun experiment, see how bad it can be and still run. Come on man, Tony would run it...ok if it were an LA not a 430.