Buy once, cry once! Only exception is starting with a router bit sets. Start with a cheap set (15 pieces or so) with 1/4" shanks. Find out which ones you use most (probably 4-6), you'll know since they will wear out then replace with the highest quality 1/2" shank. Long run you will save a lot.
I disagree. Buy as you need, look for good quality bits. Cheap ones will frustrate you and could potentially break off in operation. Very dangerous. Router bits, all of them can easily be sharpened.
I'm a fan of buying cheap stuff and seeing if upgrading is even something worth your time and money. I don't care to ever upgrade my router, jigsaw, circular saw, drill press, drills but I was super excited to upgrade my table saw.
Thankyou. I noticed your spoke shavers are nicely stored. I have recently got a spoke shaver off my Father, I refurbished it & then my Father told me it was my Grandfathers! Its over a hundred years old & after sharpening the blade it still works great. That really did bring a lump to my throat! All the best......
Hi Michael. I love a story like that. I have one of my grandfathers chisels, from the war. Can't use it well as it is a great big morticing chisel but just love the story and the connection. Great that the spoke shave works. Mine need some TLC but I am really looking forward to using them on a project when I think one up. Thank you for sharing and watching.
I love hand me down tools and tools that my dad bought for me. Adds extra meaning and sentiment to projects and brings back memories when using them. Keep doing you @startmaking1. Loving your videos.
You just said what I've finally come to realize in the last month. I've been woodworking for the last 5-7 years and I just came to the conclusion that you should use the same measuring instrument, i.e. ruler, measuring tape etc., for the same job. Do not change measuring tapes for the same project. I've learned that the hard way.
Here is the next video in the series outlining the replacements and fixes that were suggested to combat these poor tools. Please Subscribe first. ua-cam.com/video/E-glhRXBMa4/v-deo.html
As a rule, I never log in and seldom even leave a compliment. In this case, I will leave a compliment, you have done something that every beginner needs. I have a technical background and have been doing framing carpentry out of necessity for longer than I can remember. (~60 yrs) Having thrown good money after bad on gimcracks and geegaws for almost as long, I would have to say your "don't buy" articles is a bit over due. Like 60 odd years over due. . . I have learned what electrical tools to avoid, but still have many woodworking tools that are useless. Bi11 Hudson
Hi Bill. What a lovely comment. Thank you so much. I have also fallen for so many cons that I didn't need to when looking for tools to solve issues. I am glad that I can point people away from my mistakes. Thank you for watching and especially for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
2:00 I own some clamps that slip along the bar. it is very anoying. I wound up drilling incremental holes in to the bar and inserting a nail to block it from sliding. It works well. Next time one of my cheap clamps starts slipping I will first try your filing method and resort to drilling holes if al else fails.
Thank you so much for watching!! Please leave me a comment letting me know what you thought. I would be very grateful if you could like and subscribe too as that helps the channel enormously. Thank you again.
Just found your channel and was impressed that you are using a Worx drill- I now have 2 like yours, (just bought a second body only off ebay £46) and I have many other worx tools- I think they're excellent value. I always buy branded tools if I can, but for one offs I do cheap out as I am on a tight budget.
@@mickeyfilmer5551 Hi Mickey. Thank you so much for watching and for commenting. I just can't break this drill. It has proved to be a true work horse. The only draw back so far that I have found is that it is heavy. On a few of the larger builds I have done with lots of screws, I have felt the weight, Apart from that I love it.
Just thought I'd let you know I've just started restoring a Dewalt Dw 50 jointer I bought super cheap.So far I think I've been really luck it seems with a lot of elbow grease ill have a great machine.Have any idea of a suitable product to restore and polish the aluminium beds.All the tutorials I've found are American.Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
@@scottstuart6716 Hi Scott. Firstly, I have to say that I am a little jealous of your tool acquisition, no matter the state it is in. Nothing more satisfying than refurbishing a tool. That said, this is beyond my expertise. I have watched a few older ones being done up but I think that they are cast iron beds. More of the ones you see on US channels. Personally, if it is the lunch box style thicknesses, I would be tempted to make a longer, flatter bed rather than the wings that they come with. a long box of sorts that straddles through the opening on both sides. Basically to prevent snipe. I think most use melamine or some coated wood that can be paste waxed. Probably not much help. good luck.
Just found you - great video. I have suffered a number of similar fails with 'good value' purchases so it really is worth looking out for other people's views and experiences. Good luck going forward.
Hi Mark. Thank you for watching and commenting. I really appreciate it. If I can save anyone who is just starting out even one bad purchase then it is worthwhile. Good luck with your hobby and stay tuned for loads more starter builds and tips.
5 of 5.... Got them all. You are right. I have 5 or six squares... All of them are convinced that their angle is the right angle but they never aggreged each other.
Hi thePavuk. Thank you for your comment. I have never heard multiple squares summed up so well. Love that they don't agree. Well put. Thank you for watching.
Another thing to REMEMBER: if you drop your square CHECK it for square IMMEDIATELY! Every machinist who has a brain will tell you that all tools must be calibrated before use and after any fall. The drop is enough to knock it out of square.
I have to say, I expected this to be another amateur video by someone that had no real experience put into the craft. I have never seen your channel before. Upon the first several minutes into the video it was clearly apparent you were not just another average tinker. This presentation of the 5 items with clear explanations and demonstrations was excellent. I actually had a smile on my face, as I could appreciate that you genuinely care about sharing your true experiences so others won't have to. Outstanding contribution to the field and my gratitude as I click the subscribe button. Respect ! 🙂
Hi Steve. Wow I was worried that I was about to get a comment saying how poor the video was etc. I then read the second line and was so pleasantly surprised. Thank you firstly for taking the time to watch and secondly for writing such a kind comment. In truth this was 5 months ago and very early in the video journey. You summed up my thoughts as I made the video, that I was hoping to save people my displeasure and early set backs. That said, I fully consider myself to be a beginner in the woodworking world and hope that my videos don't try to pretend to be anything else. At least for now. It is very much trial and error though and I hope you stick around and keep me on the straight and narrow with comments that are honest. I am learning as much from my viewers as from the practise. Thank you again and happy holidays.
I know this is an older video. I too needed a drill press for my drill. I bought a milescraft. It barely functioned on arrival. I polished the slide uprights and dry lubricants the bearings and rods( uprights) . The smoother surfaces started to slide without catching but still had a lot of resistance. I bought a general brand about 35 years ago and it is still functional. Unfortunately it is in Tennessee and I am in California. I looked at some of the models like yours and thought there would be too much pressure on the sleeve bearing because of the lever arm where the drill is attached. Good work on your videos!!! The content is good and you organize it well.
Just found your channel and look forward to seeing more. It’s good to see a woodworker without thousands of pounds worth of kit making some nice stuff. I’ve just purchased the keg pocket hole jig to replace my trend one and you can see the quality difference. Buy once, cry once. Looking forward to seeing more from you. FFX is good for tools
Hi Steve. Thank you for watching and a huge thank you for the nice comment. I envy the guys with all of the tools and maybe one day will get there. But for now with the lack ion electricity in the shed it is a dream. Kreg seem to be the best and the difference, like you say, is night and day. I will check out FFX, great to get a recommendation. Thank you again.
@@Immolate62: Why not just buy it, and keep you lips sealed. I'm assuming you're referring to your significant other. If questioned, you can always say I thought you wouldn't really mind.😁
Great video very helpful. I’ve got some faithful squares and a planer and seem great it’s the prestige one black not had a problem. But did buy those Jorgensen clamps I got the set of 13 for Christmas
Hi Steve, I love the Jorgensen clamps. Even now, around a year after that video, they are still my go to clamps. Really good value. I don't hate faithful tools. I use their diamonds stones and am very happy. Good value for sure. Saw a carpenters set with squares and plane in it, also a spoke shaver, was tempted to take a look, maybe do a review.
Nice video. I have been wood working for decades, and still fall victim to the "must have syndrome!" Getting good measuring tools is critical. Using the same tape measure throughout the project has also been a game changer. I once saw a great trick for working with a carpenter's framing square. As you did, place the short end along a factory edge, draw a line. Flip the square and draw a second line 1/32 of an inch away, you can see them converge or diverge easily. Then if they are not perfectly parallel , use a metal punch close to the inner angle if the lines converge (this spreads the (-) 90 degree angle just a bit outwards), and toward the outside corner if the lines diverge. This has turned a cheap 16 x 20 inch (40 x 60 cm) framing square into a reliable and square tool. Please keep up the good work.
Hi Bob. That is really a relief to hear. I don't think I will eve kick the habit of must have. Love the tape measure tip. So simple yet so important. I saw the punch tip a couple of days ago and it is really strange that it works but it clearly does. I have to try it. Thank you of your kind comment and of course for watching.
Hi Michael. Thank you for watching. Good luck starting out. There is one for recommended beginner tools and I plan to release more. You have found a very rewarding, if not a little frustrating hobby. Best of luck.
I was at the kent garden show around 10 years ago. There are a few tool stalls that specialise in cheap,usually crappy tools. I saw a huge combination square with a 2’ rule. It was up for £10.00,I thought it’d be worth a punt,I never thought for a moment it’d be true. I thought it’d be useful for marking out. The stall holder said he’d be carting the square around for years,he was sick of looking at it. I got it for £2.00. I checked it out on some MDF using the same method as you. To my pleasant surprise this thing was spot on. That said,most of the cheap tools I’ve bought are rubbish(some of the expensive ones aren’t that great either). This advice is great for new woodworkers,saves money and frustration.
Even though it was a cheap tool, the fact that it was “new old stock” may suggest that it was made at a time prior to virtually everything being made like crap. You lucked out. There was probably a time when even cheap tool manufacturers, eager to get into the market, bothered to make their products with SOME integrity.
Has anyone taught you how to correct a square that's out? Take a punch (or hard nail) and strike a dimple into the square need the interior corner to increase the angle, and need the outside corner to reduce the angle. With your checking method and this tuning method you can make an accurate tool even out of a piece of rubbish.
Only recently found your channel and it is now a favorite. I like your down to earth approach. Your demo for checking the "squareness" of squares should be very helpful to anyone new into woodworking.I might slightly disagree with your comment about the red corner clamps, I've have a pair of something similar that I've had for at least 20 years, they've been used successfully at least hundreds (if not more) times over the years. What I have found over the years (I'm 67) is that brands and price points don't always tell the full story. I've experienced expensive that have been poor and cheap that have been good. The value of 'hands on' experience shared via YT channels such as yours is a great resource.
Hi, Welcome aboard. and thank you. I am glad that you have some decent corner squares. I suspect that you bought them when they were well made and not cheap and nasty like my ones. You are right about pricing too. I think that where possible walking into a shop and feeling them first is vital. Sadly not easy where I am based but for most , it would be my recommendation. All I can do is steer people away from the bad ones on places like Amazon,
Hi Travis. Thank you so much for the kind comment. Really appreciated. Good luck with the woodworking. You won't regret getting started, really rewarding.
Checking for square is easier then marking up your bench. It's called the "3-4-5 rule" and you can use it in multiples there of. Go to the 3 mark on one side and the 4 mark on the other side. The distance between 2 points should be 5.
I agree on any 90 degree angle clamps. I've bought many of them......and ALL of them have been disappointments. With the portable drill guides......it depends. I also had a cheap plastic one that was terrible and not worth my time. But I upgraded to the Rockler version and it's fantastic, albeit expensive. I heard the Woodpeckers version is great too. Basically you want an all metal version with thick beefy rails....but they cost more.
Hi Jackson. You re spot on. I saw the Rockler one but am struggling to get it over in the UK. Maybe the woodpecker one would be easier. I will have to look. thank you for the advice. And thank you for watching.
@@startmaking1 You can just buy the Axminster version model 106072. They are almost the exact same thing except for color and knobs and such. They might even be the same manufacturer.
The Milescraft one is quite good if you do a small modification to it, as it comes the base is very unstable but if you add a nice flat plywood base plate to the unit then it becomes quite stable and it cost considerably less then the Rockler
I have that Kreg tool and I love it. I bought as well the little clamp to keep the tool in place when I’m using and after I mark where I want the holes to go is really fast.
Hi Luis. Thank you for your comment. I have the clamp somewhere. Usually I use it if I am doing a lot of holes. I got lazy this time. Thank you for watching.
Hi Mark. First time on your channel and you now have a new subscriber. good useful and well explained content. Fantastic. Keep up the good work and thank you. 👍
i love to get several different looks and opinions at methods and tools that others use to see what works, what doesn't as well why it may work for some and not others. Thank you for making this video, it was very informative. And you backed it up by demonstration, great job!
I just purchased and used the first set of corner clamps same as the red ones with the screws. Very much needed them to hold the pieces together even with a helper but only square at the direct area where they wood was in the vice, the top of the wood looked warped. Wish I hadnt spent the money on the wrong type of corner clamps! Thanks. Love ur videos.
Basic Graphics 101: don't scribe one line directly over the other (checking parallel). Draw two very close lines/scribes. Your eyesight is enough to gauge the gap between lines, and tell if the lines are parallel (and that the square is square). "Eyeballing" is accurate to a fraction of a degree: mis-alignment will jump right out at you. Courtesy high school drafting circa 1962.
I wish I would of seen your posts before I got started woodworking…. I wouldn’t of bought some of the same junk you bought and your tips are “right one”!….. Thanks for the videos, I’ve enjoyed them all. Howard in Arizona
Two tips. #1: Buy once, Cry Once. #2: Stay away from Banggood's junk/knockoffs. Well, OK, 3 tips. If you're drilling by yourself, you can use a mirror (or CD's remember those?). Check out Andy Klein's video on how to do it.
Great channel , F clamps, I bought a set (4) of not inexpensive clamps (Axminster!) useless! I drilled a series of holes in the bar, turning them into sash clamps that could also be bolted together, not sure I would trust most speed squares to be true, best square I've got is the Bench dog, It's ....... well square. Excellent vid thanks for posting
hi Paul. Thank you for watching and commenting. What a good idea with the f clamps. I may have been lucky with my speed square, love it. That said for more precise work my starrett is where I turn.
Great tip for making the cheap F clamps usable. I stumbled on this idea after buying some 'bargain' clamps and used a hacksaw to re-cut the friction grooves. What you can't get past is if the screw threads on the clamp bar and hand screw are really crudely cut, so that the hand clamp slides through the clamp bar. If that happens, return it immediately to the shop for a replacement or refund. This seems to be a common fault on cheap (Chinese?) clamps. If you're on a tight budget and can't afford more expensive ones, just check them out in the store before buying.
Quite..on a budget, buying Chinese tools is hard to avoid...on principle I'd avoid them if possible. I've had the same trouble with one150mm clamp and tried your method of fixing the grip .not successful but I'll give it another go ..don't want to have to throw $nz14 away😊🇳🇿
Hi Mark, I am a new subscriber and enjoyed this video. I think comparison videos are always helpful, especially for people just getting started in woodworking. There is a hidden compromise we all make when shopping for new tools, but we are not always aware of as we evaluate quality and price. As we move lower on the price scale we need to be aware that our expectations for how the tool will perform also needs to be lowered. When I purchase a new tool for my shop, I select the best quality I can afford at the time. Over the years, I have had the pleasure and enjoyment of using good quality tools and accumulating far less junk that failed and needed to be replaced. Good luck with you UA-cam channel.
Your comment is right on! In the past, one way I've saved money is purchasing used tools at garage or estate sales. I've been quite surprised at some of the real "gems" I've been able to find!
Great video again Mark. I honestly laugh out loud because the stuff you’ve identified has already passed through my hands! Those bloody red picture frame clamps and F clamps ended up in round receptacle filing cabinet in the corner some years ago. Great advice on checking squareness and pocket hole equipment. Love the videos matey. W
The clamps you were using for boxes are actually for joining together picture frames. I have made more frames than I can count. The pieces for the box sides are so tall there is no way just by physics those clamps were made for that use. You either have to use those clamps for the bottom & the top or better yet miter your corner joints to 45 degrees & use a ratchetting strap clamp. But, again if your box sides are tall enough, use 2 ratcheting straps to ensure your joints properly meet.
Hi Brian. Thank you for commenting. You are absolutely right. I have no idea when I bought them. Happily I can learn from the experienced eyes watching. I have one ratchet clamp that I use, a second is a good idea. Thank you for watching .
This is the first of your videos I have watched and I subscribed. Love your sincerity and enthusiasm. Thanks for the extremely meaningful content, too! Thank you!
I don't know about availability in your area, but rockler has a nice drill guide, its kind of middle of the road on price but it works well, is good quality, and has a decent amount of features included, with some purchasable features too. It has worked well for me.
I like the look of Rockler. It is definitely more available in the US but I will have a hunt around as some things seem to be available over here.Thank you
I’ve got one from Milescraft that is also serviceable. Used it to make a lot of dog holes in my bench as well as holes bored for hinges and it gets the job done fine. I would still love a drill press in the future though.
Hi Boyan. That is very good advice. On elf my issues is the location of shops nearby. A lot of what I order is online which is part of the issue. thank you for commenting and for watching
@@startmaking1 That's why i am very reluctant to buy online precision instruments save they are stated to respond to a DIN standard / i am in Europe/ Great video! My note anyway was toward beginners when they are going to buy what's cheap locally
For a better corner clamp, cut some 45 degree miter triangles about 6 in wide from plywood or scrap. Drill a couple of holes an inch away from the square sides 1 1/2" or so wide. Use squeeze clamp or f clamp to squeeze the work pieces together clamping with the holes as holds. Extremely versatile and cheap, and easier to set up. Can work on large work pieces like cabinets, and can clamp to your workbench as well to keep in place while setting up the joint.
Thanks, Mark. Only yesterday I watched another video on squares being misaligned and went to my shed to check. 3 out of 5 were not square and yes, in the past, I thought it was my fault. I had 1 x adjustable square but the other 2 I have thrown away in frustration. I will now not by cheap. Never thought about the corner clamps but will check that in about 1/2 an hour. Great work and thanks again 👍
Great that you have found the squares issue. It would have caused you issues for a long time. Glad I could help. Seems we all take very similar journeys. I now swear by my starrett square as the one to test the rest against,
I also bought the drill press tested it out never used again for the reasons you showed, if you are only using pocket holes occasionally try the trend unit for the same price as your wolf does a decent job maybe not as good as the kreg but still for the price worth looking at
Hello, nice and informative video, especially for a novice like me. Even though i agree with you concerning the uselessness or unaccuracy of cheap tools, quality ones are far from being achieveble for some people, myself included. So, i have a rule and always buy the best tool within my budget, one of them being the wolfcraft pocket jig. For me, that item is not a cheap one and even though it is impossible to make clean holes with it, none of the screws i used were sticking out like in your video (i did not use the screws that came in the set, i used screw with a washer head, for pocket holes). In conclusion, you might not use that jig properly, and after plugging the holes and a bit of an effort and some paint, no one will even see the "not so clean pocket holes". True, Kreg ones might be faster, might be better, might make cleaner holes, and i want one for sure but wolfcraft pocket jig should not be on this list since it does what is supposed to do.
Hi Serban. Thank you for such a detailed comment. I agree with you on a lot of the points. The only one for me is one that I suspect comes down to the difference between out jigs. I have adjusted the depths of the collar on the drill, I have clamped the jig in a number of different ways. I have had it for around 3 yrs and have done maybe 300 holes and not one has left the screw inside of the wood's surface. With the amount of experimenting I have done, surely one would have worked. Either way I do agree with you about budget and everything else. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting. I am very happy that you are getting good results from the Wolfcraft Jig. I plan to do a follow up video where I suggest alternatives/ improvements to the 5 tools assessed and I will try to make the Wolfcraft jig work on camera to show the real results for me.
I never really use screws for joinery, because I normally restore furniture from an ago where they did not exist yet. But, when I had to make and install some kitchen cabinets, pocket holes seemed a good enough and cheap solution. When using something once or twice you don't buy the best money can get, so no Kreg for me. However I have the same experience you did with this Wolfcraft setup. None of my (Truss head) screws stuck out, and no frayed edges either. They were deep enough to fit the entire slanted dowels in the hole and fit tightly. However, I did sharpen the drill beforehand as it seemed a little dull. I just set up the thickness of the wood, got the drill depth from the chart on the back of the jig and that's it. Worked just fine. So I did not drill 300+ holes, as 48 was enough for me but honestly I don't see any real problems with this jig if you're just using it occasionally.
I've seen videos disparaging the $7 speed squares you can get at Home Depot or Menards for not being accurate, claiming you need to spend $50-100 to get a square worth using. Might be true for someone who needs very high precision, for mortise and tenons, or where you're building a $7000 hardwood desk where a client isn't going to accept any wiggle room in joints...but for those of us who are relatively new to woodworking "pretty square" is probably good enough.
Hi Horatio. Thank you for watching and also taking the time to comment. I have a couple of easy build videos lined up for the next few weeks. Then maybe I can pop in the best 5 tools. Thank you again.
couple of points about the pocket joint. First, you can make the jig yourself from a block of scrap wood. Drill a hole into a piece of wood clamped on an angle or flat on and saw to your preferred angle. added points if you give your wood jig a metal face. Second point. Slight user error on the small jig. Reduce the tolerance on your drill. Have the tolerance to be just enough to make the hole. That way instead of driving through the wood your drill would just spin. Yes, the bigger jig is better but with a lot of things best practices can win out over fancy toys.
Hi Vagabond. What a great idea about making a jig. I fancy giving that a try. Love a good homemade jig. And great advice on the drill. I didn't consider that less is more. Will give it a shot asap. Thank you for commenting and for watching ,
Hi Mark, I also bought the last Item you reviewed the Drill Press, from a place that we have all heard of, It was the biggest load of rubbish that I can say that I have spent my money on, the thing was that I didn't really need it. I just got caught up with web site and thinking oh this looks ok or that looks good until the package arrives and you find your costly mistakes. Keep up the the good work. Pete..
Hi Pete. It's a shame as from the comments it seems a fair amount of us have fallen for this . the real shame is that it would be really useful if it worked.
1) Just found you this morning and really enjoy the videos I've watched!!! 2) I've got a couple of the items you were less than pleased with and they both work very well for me. 3) I like that you make nice stuff with a very limited workshop, I shows that you don't need the big expensive tools to make quality products. 4) Being a Brit makes your videos that much more enjoyable. I watch quite a few British shows and love the accent and find the different terminology (Rebate instead of rabbit for one) interesting. Thank You for the job you're doing.
Hi. Thank you for watching. I am very happy that they have worked for you. It seems a 50-50 split on these items. I have been working for a while in that little shed and in truth miss it a lot now it is being replaced by the workshop I am building. That said, I still wont fill it with loads of inaccessible equipment. Maybe as table saw. Happy that you like the accent too. It's the only one I have lol.
Great video thanks for the pointers. I haven’t seen a more supportive community than woodworkers. Fewer gatekeeper types, the sellout shills just peddling products for sale without skills get called out, and everyone seems to have a niche for their specialized interest. Hope those lumber prices go down. Happy making
I have to say that ity's nice to see someone British so I'm looking at things available here. Also, I have bought some of those and learned the hard way. Loving the videos mate.
Good work! I'm a hand tools woodworker and my first metal planes were from Faithful. They are really janky! Now I prefer wooden planes (although I don't shy away from metal planes, but wooden planes are also a lot cheaper were I'm from).
Hi Thomas. I see a lot of Faithful planes on Amazon and around. I love my old Stanley no 4s and to be honest the low angle Stanley is pretty good too. The Record I have is a real pain to tune and don't get me started on my Woden. I am yet to try a wooden plane. Always figured the base would not stay flat. I am interested to try though. Thank you for the comment and the advise.
@@startmaking1 Don't get me wrong, I will definitely invest in some metal planes eventually. Right now I'm more concerned with having what I need, and when you live in Scandinavia used wooden planes are everywhere. However, because of UA-cam and the pandemic metal planes are taking over. The sole stays nice and flat no problem, but if something should happen to it, you can just reflatten it :^) Faithful is absolute trash. It's not worth the money. My experience with it is very much like the cheap clamps you show in the beginning-I had to spend hours to make them work! And then I thought: "well, now they are kinda nice", but then I became better at what I do and realised that, no, they are trash.
@@thomashverring9484 Im going to get me a wooden plane as I think it will feel good to use it too. Faithful seem to be sub standard once you are at a level where you can use it properly. I have just got back from an outing where I found a vintage no 5 Stanley for £20. I am pretty happy but haven't yet tested the base or the iron. We will see.
@@startmaking1 Oh, that sounds great. It's so rare to see the vintage Stanley planes in Denmark, although I've made a few connections that could help me :^)
Great video! I even learned a few new karate moves in the shop from watching you test squares. I would add to your list anything from Kreg that isn’t a pocket-hole jig. I’m sure this is blasphemy to many but I found there stuff is flimsy and often awkward to use - just say’n.
Hi Mojo. Thank you for commenting. love the karate reference. I will hold out hope for Kreg as I have just bought their circular saw guide to try and counter the fact that without electricity a table saw is out of the question. Was hoping to be able to make small square cuts with it. Fingers crossed that I can get some use.Thank you for watching too.
You can fix those squares by using a file on the edges. Go slow, take minor passes and check. Repeat until it's square. Ive had to do that with antique squares. To add to your "Dont Buy" list, I would suggest avoiding, at all cost: Cheap hand planes. The big box stores carry cheap hand planes and they are garbage. They either dont work at all (IE: the blue painted smoothing plane with a K) or they need so much setup and be handled with kid gloves (IE: Initials are WD from the store HF) that it is not worth your money. Cheap chisels and anything from those tractor trailer sales
Hi Timothy. Thank you for commenting. I fully agree with the additions to the list. I did a video aimed at people buying a good vintage Stanley and refurbing rather than the big star cheap planes. I will try to file the squares. I hate throwing anything out. Well, not the drill press, that one has gone. thank you for watching.
A better solution is to use a centre punch. On the one he showed use the centre punch on the upper side about 3mm from the edge near the handle. It will force the plate closer to square with each punch. Check for square after each punch
@@richardeyre481 Hi Richard. Thank you for commenting. I will give it a shot. Though, for the price I paid I am very tempted to get something more suitable for my needs. I don't do a lot of framing, if any but I do a lot of boxes. Maybe a second band clamp if that is the right name. though they are a mess to store. Won't fit nicely on my cleat wall. Oh well. Thank you for watching.
Hi Chris. From the comments. So long as they are used to make frames, they do an OK job. Apparently you can knock them back to square too. Not tried though
Mark - What I have done is buy quality tools, damn the expense, for tools I will be using all of the time, table saw, joiner, lathe, for those one time jobs I usually buy from Harbor Freight, and if I use the tool enough to wear it out, I replace with the better tool. So far have had good luck with the "cheap" tools from Harbor Freight, but they are not used all the time. Just my way of doing things.
Hi Pat. Thank you for commenting. That sounds like a very good way of going about it. I look forward to the day that I can add all of those awesome tools to a workshop. For now, I will be avoiding the very cheapest options and spending a little more. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for the video You took me back probably 25years,you reminded me of a technique for checking my square,for woodworking and even metalworking Appreciated Emil
This will surprise many, but after a decade of woodworking I must say the advice I give to all beginners about tool buying is: do NOT buy a table saw! Absolutely the worst choice of saw for a beginner in the craft. Now I won’t deny, I enjoy having my big cabinet saw, but if money ever got tight or I needed more space it would probably be the first thing to go. They are significantly more dangerous, more expensive, and more of a space hog than other equipment that can do the exact same task. When you buy a table saw for woodworking, you have to not only buy a saw, but you have to get a larger, nicer one to get the full functionality of it. You also need to purchase accessories, like dust collection and a few nice blades to get full functionality. You also need to make or purchase an outfeed table, and you need to budget at least 8-10 square meters of shop space to get full functionality. Overall, it’s not something for a beginner!
Hi Lyster1ne. Thank you for such a detailed piece of advice. I agree whole heartedly. While I wish I had one, I know that the time has to be right. thank you for watching.
I disagree a little with the assertion that you need to get a big saw for it to be useful, and if you are doing a lot of rip cuts, it's hard to find a good alternative. I would agree not to get the very cheap table saws, but the worksite table saws in the $600-700 range (less when on sale) work just fine for most of us. An outfeed table would be helpful. And for blades, a thin kerf general purpose or combination blade in the $30 ballpark (like CMT or Diablo) will suit you well, and probably eventually a dedicated rip blade. As for safety, if you are new to using a table saw, learn everything you can about table saw safety before you turn on your saw. And buy the safety accessories - push blocks, push sticks, etc.
Hi Thomas. You are spot on, thank you. I use it as I said as a helping hand. It was just a recommendation as a thought that may help others who, like me struggle with clamping in the early days. The odd thing though is that in the advert I saw, the guy was making a box.Thank you again for your comment.
Nice video. You earned a subscription. I'm in Florida. I have a big shop and lots of tools. Still, I find it enjoyable and reminiscent to watch a new-but-earnest craftsman learn and grow. As we Yanks say, "Keep it up!"
Tom, what a lovely comment. Thank you so much. I aspire to the big shop but want to learn the skills and earn the money at the same time to pay for it. Its a long way from a shed with no power but I am having a blast. Thank you for watching and any advise is greatly received.
@@startmaking1 I do have one bit of advise. As a watcher of crafty UA-camrs for years now, I've seen a lot of them find success and the money to transform themselves from regular people to "stars." I've seen them buy their mega-shops and climb aboard with big sponsors and patrons, and over time I just stop watching them because I can no longer relate to them. I don't know how you avoid that, or even if you should, but an example of someone who has managed it is Steve from Woodworking for Mere Mortals. Here's hoping you have to deal with this thorny problem in the not-too-distant future.
@@Immolate62 Hi Tom. Thank you for such a lovely piece of advice. I personally watch a lot of WWMM. You are right, he has kept himself very well grounded in a world where UA-cam can make stars. While on one hand I would love to see the channel grow to the extent that I could consider making it my job, I can't see my shed taking in too many tools. Joking aside, I always said that I would never buy big tools before I had the skills to match them and I stand by that. Thank you again for being so kind with your input and helpful.
Hi Rick. Very good spot. The video was running long so I cut the part where I checked the edge of the ply counter top. Annoyingly it makes the test inaccurate looking without the scene. Apart from a load of dents and chips the edge was surprisingly straight. Straight enough for this test in my opinion. Next time I would definitely follow your comment. thank you for reaching out and for watching .
The sandpaper disc holder behind you on the wall is worth doing a build video for sure. .. or maybe there is already I don’t know, I just subbed. I need a sandpaper organizer in my life
Hi. thank you for watching, commenting and subbing., Full house. Funny, I actually have a very early film of the disc rack build and like my early ones it is detailed and long. I was always planning on putting a few together like the scraper holder. then I found I had not recorded half of the scraper build. I was annoyed and never came back to the idea. I think it is time to dust off the old footage. Thank you for reminding me.
The drill guide is a cheap knock off of an expensive Woodpecker tool. I bought it as well. I was fully aware of the risk. And I demanded a refund since it really was unacceptable.
Hi Yossi. I should have done the same. Annoyingly I bought it and didn't use it for too long before finding out that it was that bad. Live and learn I guess. Thank you for commenting and for watching.
I bought the aluminum Woodpecker version of this - and it's really good. Highly recommended. This plastic knock-off - not so much. I can see where it wouldn't hold up to even minor use. I went without such a thing for a long time - got it last year and have used it several times on projects that it was really helpful for.
Hi Alejandro. thank you for the feedback. It was something that I considered but in all honesty two of the tools didn't even seem to have brands that I could find when I searched. Maybe I can include Amazon links in the description as they were all brought online. Great feedback, thanks you again.
Very helpful, Mark. I was suspicious of the drill press. Thanks for showing its faults. I use the Kreg pocket hole jig. I've built cabinets, drawers, and a picnic table using pocket screws. Kreg has many how-to videos for their products, too.
Hi Jon. thank you for the comment. That was a great dodge on the drill press. It is truly awful. Worst of the bunch. I love pocket holes in the right application. I have a video on draws coming up. Nothing fancy just a Kreg demo of sorts. You send like you are already past that stage though. Thank you again for watching.
Hi Larry. Thank you for your comment. You won't be the only one. One positive is that from the comments and from taking a second look at some of the bad tools, there are fixes around. I feel another video coming along.
Had a good laugh when you started with the Bessey clamps, I knew exactly what you would say! While shopping I foresaw the exact problem you discussed and bought the Jorgensen, the spring lock is essential for F-clamps. What I didn't foresee was how under engineered the bar itself is with respect to clamping force. I bought the less expensive 300lbs clamps, as opposed to the 600lbs or 1000lbs versions. How much force do you really need to put on wood, you'll just crush it, right? Well true, but its not the force on the wood that is necessary, but rather the strength of the bar itself because it will bend and deform during use, and the longer the bar the more it deforms. My 6in clamps have some bend, but the 12in have quite a bit more making it difficult to slide the clamp arm from end to end, plus the clamp jaw is no longer parallel. Your Jorgenson 12in in the video looked as if it was bent as well. The 600lbs and 1000lbs versions have a thicker sturdier bar, which should better resist bending and deforming. I can't say with a certainty, only because I haven't had the need to buy any new clamps yet, since the 300lbs version are still doing there job though less than efficiently, but next time I'm going to spend the extra money for the heavier duty versions. That being said I love the smaller Jorgensen F-clamps, they still work well even after bending, however not the long 48in(120cm) Jorgensen Parallel clamps. They all had bent bars while still sitting in the store, just bad manufacturing. On the other hand, the Bessey Parallel clamps were all straight as an arrow and I haven't experienced any bending even when clamped. Additionally, the Bessey Parallel clamps have some nice extra features that Jorgensen doesn't provide. In short, heavy duty Jorgensen for the small F-clamps and Bessey for the large Parallel clamps seems the best choice in my experience. Oh, and thanks for confirming my suspicions about those 90deg corner box clamps things. I have long held off on buying them, now I won't!
Hi Christopher. Thank you for the detailed reply. I had to read it twice, so much information. I better pop to the shed to check if my Jorgensen clamp I in fact bent. I did have a longer one bend on me. I am looking forward to buying my first parallel clamp, sash and f style clamps only go so far. Thank you again for watching and such a helpful comment.
I have four 24" Bessey F clamps and the bars are bent on all of them. I don't notice any bend in the 12" and 6" clamps. However, my issue with them is not that the pads on the clamps "walk" as they are tightened, rather they cause the glue joint to slip as they are tightened. I must be extremely vigilant to ensure that the glue edges stay straight/flush. I hate to resort to pin nails to achieve perfect alignment, but I am almost ready to do so.
@@marshallmurrell4583 I'm not surprised to hear Bessey clamps bend as well. This happens to all clamps to some degree, its the physics of the forces applied on the clamps, f-style, trigger, or etc. One way to combat it is to get sturdier bodied clamps as I discussed above. As to your other problem, if I understand you correctly, joints slipping is a common problem with all glue ups. In my experience, the underlying problem is miss alignment of the clamps, whether caused by slightly improper placement, or as you suggested the clamp arm sliding within those little rubber feet, or flex/bending of the bar as you tighten it shifting the angle of the force, too much glue, etc. And, even a slight bit of miss alignment (whatever the cause, it doesn't take much) will cause slipping. Imagine clamping boards with only your hands, as you compress the boards you would feel the joint slipping around on the glue. To compensate, you would adjust the angle of the pressure you apply with your hands until eventually you get the pressure just right and the slipping stops. Clamps suffer the same problem, but unlike your hands they can't adjust themselves. I frequently have to loosen my clamps and readjust them several times, and I still don't always get it right. Yes, it takes extra vigilance and quite a bit of practice/experience to get good at it, I'm still working at it after 2.5 years in the hobby. In my opinion, gluing can be the hardest and most critical part of woodworking, and I feel the most overlooked part of woodworking by our wonderful lot of woodworking UA-cam educators. I've often thought one could easily make a multiple part series just on the nuances of gluing. There's a great topic for you @Start Making, have at it! Anyway, don't give up, or...well...give up and use pin nails, both are ways fine if your happy with the end result!
@@christophermoore1774 Thanks for your thoughtful response. The bend in the F clamps to which I was referring is not the typical flex one gets as one tightens the clamp. I get some of that even with sturdy pipe clamps. The bend to which I referred is a sideways bend of the bar when the clamp is loosely clamped to a flat and level surface. It is quite hot where I live in Texas. I often do not have enough working time to fiddle with the clamp multiple times before the glue begins to set. You did hit on one other possible remedy which I intend to try and that is using less glue. Eliminate a bit of the squeeze out and perhaps make the joint less prone to slip. I also wonder whether parallel clamps would reduce the issue.
@@marshallmurrell4583 yeah, been there, heat can murder your open time. I'm a titebond person, type 3 - 10min, I always use 3 for complex glue ups. Parallel may help, hard for me to say, I only have big 48in, so I dont use them much, they still slip around some , but less than regular f-clamps.
Hi Jamie. Thank you so much. Sorry that you, like me, learnt the hard way. I bet these aren't the only tools of that type too. I keep finding random ones at the bottom of boxes. I feel another video coming on. thank you for watching this one.
My name is Mike and I am just starting out in woodworking however I have a general knowledge of the workings of the craft. I have a lot to learn and I love videos like yours. Great job on all of it, very informative and articulated. I don't have very much money so I will have to build from the ground up. I use these videos as a guide to figure out what tools to get. Also I'm still trying to figure out what I want to build which will also affect what tools to get. I hope to make videos just like these as well as building various items like tables, coffee tables, ect... Hope to see more, Happy Building!!!💯😁
What a lovely comment. Thank you. That is the best advice you can get. Only buy the tools you need to complete the next project. That way you will buy a tool that will get use and you will complete projects to either learn from or sell. Good luck with the builds and the videos.
Hi Kathryn. They drive you bonkers. I tried everything until I realised that cutting square was more important that the clamps. Took me at least a year.
This is a helpful video for beginners. I would totally agree with the cheap clamp and corner clamp comments. I would only make one comment about how to check out your squares and that is, that your method is fine, but I would not trust the edge of the bench without first checking closely that it is absolutely straight for at least twice the length of the square stock and is completely clear of old glue dribbles etc. as any imperfections will give you a false reading.
SuperEwokk. That is absolutely spot on. I realised this after this video and in the follow up I think that I corrected the edge that I used. The square was still off but at least thanks to comments like yours I have learnt some vital lessons. Thank you
In regards to the potentil problem with the tape riping ; dings and dents caused by it being thrown around on the work bench and in storage seans to be bigest cause of riping in my shop.
Hi Gavin. On further inspection I think you may be right. They come in a pack of ten and the corner so to speak is very rounded. Maybe I also had a dodgy batch. Someone recommended storing them in a broken fridge which seems sensible. Thank you for watching and such a useful comment.
Ha! yep! I have one of those red handled horrors at 1:30 . It does clamp firmly, but as it tightens it ‘walks’ off sideways across the work, pulling the work out of alignment. Good job I only have the one. The line and flip square test works better if instead of overlapping the pen lines, you deliberately draw them a couple of mm apart. You’ll spot two close lines out of parallel much easier then overlapping lines.
Hi Contessa Adella . Thank you for your comment. Nice to know there are others like me. Great idea with the lines. I was struggling to even show it on the video. Thank you for watching
Hi Philip. Thank you for your comment. I am still searching but from the advice in the comments I am close to buying the miles craft one or if I had access to a US shop maybe Rockler. Thank you for watching and as soon as I have one I will be sure to give it a thorough test.
i enjoyed your video, that second corner clamp is crap too lol tho you said it really only good as a second hand i dont think they are any good as that either.. just dont buy them everyone .. if you want some you can have mine lol and i bought that drill press thing and i dont think i like mine either tho it wasnt very cheap.. i havnt had a chance to use it really but when i got it i tried to drill a hole with it and it was super cumbersome so i dont know if that will ever get any use either.. loved your vid
Hi Salty Dawg. Thank you very much for watching and for your kind comment. Much appreciated. I would also give away my clamps in a heartbeat. The drill press is long gone. And I am not sad.
Informative video, Mark… thanks! I bought Woodpeckers auto line drill guide because I don’t have the room for a proper dress press. The engineering is fantastic. Virtually zero runout on the drill bit and it bores at precisely 90 degrees. The price was a killer, though!
Love this video. I made all the similar mistakes and then came to the same conclusion of getting it done better. The pains of cheap painter tape really resonated with me too!
Glad I came across your channel. I'm interested what future videos you will produce. You seem to be in a similar place to my channel & wood working. But I'm envious of your workshop. Mine is so small lol.
Hi Milmo Wood. I have just subbed to yours, looks like a lot of quality videos. My workshop is a shed with no power. one wall looks nice. If yours is smaller I am very surprised but then, great things can be made anywhere. I look forward to seeing your next build.
@@startmaking1 oh thanks my friend. I started my channel just to record stuff for myself. So my early videos are just photographs really. I decided to get in front of the camera more just recently. Unfortunately long covid has really curtailed my output. The last 12 months have personally been quite difficult but I've put a few videos out. Can't keep a wood worker down lol
@@MilmoWood I am so sorry to hear that you are not well. We are experiencing the long covid in my house too. It is so debilitating. I hope that your health improves and you have a great attitude, one that many woodworkers seem to have.
Hi Dave. Thank you for the nice comment. And for watching, The Black speed square was fairly inexpensive from amazon. www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminum-Carpenter-Triangle-Measuring-Woodworking/dp/B08LVGGNQQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1W7OD8UTHD17H&keywords=speed+square&qid=1659183368&sprefix=speed+sqaure%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0xUUDg2RDlRUkJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzY4NDQzMjFGOEYwTks0REM3RiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzI1ODg4QTFaNUU2WDdNSlBFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Hope that this helps. Check the size and there are other models etc.
Buy once, cry once! Only exception is starting with a router bit sets. Start with a cheap set (15 pieces or so) with 1/4" shanks. Find out which ones you use most (probably 4-6), you'll know since they will wear out then replace with the highest quality 1/2" shank. Long run you will save a lot.
Hi Matthew, Great advice on the router bits. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
💯! 👍🖐️🍻
I disagree.
Buy as you need, look for good quality bits. Cheap ones will frustrate you and could potentially break off in operation. Very dangerous.
Router bits, all of them can easily be sharpened.
I'm a fan of buying cheap stuff and seeing if upgrading is even something worth your time and money. I don't care to ever upgrade my router, jigsaw, circular saw, drill press, drills but I was super excited to upgrade my table saw.
I’ve got a set of router bits bough 20 years ago. They don’t get enough use to wear out. Thankfully they were B&Q own brand.
Thankyou. I noticed your spoke shavers are nicely stored. I have recently got a spoke shaver off my Father, I refurbished it & then my Father told me it was my Grandfathers! Its over a hundred years old & after sharpening the blade it still works great. That really did bring a lump to my throat! All the best......
Hi Michael. I love a story like that. I have one of my grandfathers chisels, from the war. Can't use it well as it is a great big morticing chisel but just love the story and the connection. Great that the spoke shave works. Mine need some TLC but I am really looking forward to using them on a project when I think one up. Thank you for sharing and watching.
I love hand me down tools and tools that my dad bought for me. Adds extra meaning and sentiment to projects and brings back memories when using them.
Keep doing you @startmaking1. Loving your videos.
You just said what I've finally come to realize in the last month. I've been woodworking for the last 5-7 years and I just came to the conclusion that you should use the same measuring instrument, i.e. ruler, measuring tape etc., for the same job. Do not change measuring tapes for the same project. I've learned that the hard way.
I also did that for way too long. Still accidentally do to be honest.
Totally agree, it's amazing how so many brands vary, it's very slight but can make massive difference
Here is the next video in the series outlining the replacements and fixes that were suggested to combat these poor tools. Please Subscribe first.
ua-cam.com/video/E-glhRXBMa4/v-deo.html
I’ve been in the job over 40 years but you’ve brought things to the fore that I haven’t thought about like forever lol. Brilliant
Hi Trevor. Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I have a lot to learn from someone of your experience, feel free to comment any time.
As a rule, I never log in and seldom even leave a compliment. In this case, I will leave a compliment, you have done something that every beginner needs. I have a technical background and have been doing framing carpentry out of necessity for longer than I can remember. (~60 yrs) Having thrown good money after bad on gimcracks and geegaws for almost as long, I would have to say your "don't buy" articles is a bit over due. Like 60 odd years over due. . . I have learned what electrical tools to avoid, but still have many woodworking tools that are useless.
Bi11 Hudson
Hi Bill. What a lovely comment. Thank you so much. I have also fallen for so many cons that I didn't need to when looking for tools to solve issues. I am glad that I can point people away from my mistakes. Thank you for watching and especially for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
I was sceptical when I started watching, but you are spot on. Very informative. Well done
Hi Walter. Thank you for your very honest comment. Much appreciated
2:00 I own some clamps that slip along the bar. it is very anoying. I wound up drilling incremental holes in to the bar and inserting a nail to block it from sliding. It works well. Next time one of my cheap clamps starts slipping I will first try your filing method and resort to drilling holes if al else fails.
That sounds like a good alternative.
Thank you so much for watching!! Please leave me a comment letting me know what you thought. I would be very grateful if you could like and subscribe too as that helps the channel enormously. Thank you again.
Just found your channel and was impressed that you are using a Worx drill- I now have 2 like yours, (just bought a second body only off ebay £46) and I have many other worx tools- I think they're excellent value. I always buy branded tools if I can, but for one offs I do cheap out as I am on a tight budget.
@@mickeyfilmer5551 Hi Mickey. Thank you so much for watching and for commenting. I just can't break this drill. It has proved to be a true work horse. The only draw back so far that I have found is that it is heavy. On a few of the larger builds I have done with lots of screws, I have felt the weight, Apart from that I love it.
@@ingulari3977 Hi Ingu. That is some great advice. Mine have been with me too long to return sadly but others definitely should.
Just thought I'd let you know I've just started restoring a Dewalt Dw 50 jointer I bought super cheap.So far I think I've been really luck it seems with a lot of elbow grease ill have a great machine.Have any idea of a suitable product to restore and polish the aluminium beds.All the tutorials I've found are American.Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
@@scottstuart6716 Hi Scott. Firstly, I have to say that I am a little jealous of your tool acquisition, no matter the state it is in. Nothing more satisfying than refurbishing a tool. That said, this is beyond my expertise. I have watched a few older ones being done up but I think that they are cast iron beds. More of the ones you see on US channels. Personally, if it is the lunch box style thicknesses, I would be tempted to make a longer, flatter bed rather than the wings that they come with. a long box of sorts that straddles through the opening on both sides. Basically to prevent snipe. I think most use melamine or some coated wood that can be paste waxed. Probably not much help. good luck.
Just found you - great video. I have suffered a number of similar fails with 'good value' purchases so it really is worth looking out for other people's views and experiences. Good luck going forward.
I have some of those red corner clamps and I like them. But, I put them on from the top and set my square in the bottom corner. Works perfect.
Hi Cindy. Great advice, thank you
Just getting into woodworking. Very useful information. Thank you. These will save me money and frustration.
Hi Mark. Thank you for watching and commenting. I really appreciate it. If I can save anyone who is just starting out even one bad purchase then it is worthwhile. Good luck with your hobby and stay tuned for loads more starter builds and tips.
“The Bitterness of Poor Quality Remains Long After The Sweetness of Low Price Is Forgotten” Benjamin Franklin
I love that summary. So very true. Probably why I like it. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
@@startmaking1 thanks for replying! Save your money and get the very best you can afford! Good Luck!
@@viewer1youtuber529 agreed.
5 of 5.... Got them all. You are right. I have 5 or six squares... All of them are convinced that their angle is the right angle but they never aggreged each other.
Hi thePavuk. Thank you for your comment. I have never heard multiple squares summed up so well. Love that they don't agree. Well put. Thank you for watching.
Another thing to REMEMBER: if you drop your square CHECK it for square IMMEDIATELY! Every machinist who has a brain will tell you that all tools must be calibrated before use and after any fall. The drop is enough to knock it out of square.
I have to say, I expected this to be another amateur video by someone that had no real experience put into the craft. I have never seen your channel before. Upon the first several minutes into the video it was clearly apparent you were not just another average tinker. This presentation of the 5 items with clear explanations and demonstrations was excellent. I actually had a smile on my face, as I could appreciate that you genuinely care about sharing your true experiences so others won't have to.
Outstanding contribution to the field and my gratitude as I click the subscribe button. Respect ! 🙂
Hi Steve. Wow I was worried that I was about to get a comment saying how poor the video was etc. I then read the second line and was so pleasantly surprised. Thank you firstly for taking the time to watch and secondly for writing such a kind comment. In truth this was 5 months ago and very early in the video journey. You summed up my thoughts as I made the video, that I was hoping to save people my displeasure and early set backs. That said, I fully consider myself to be a beginner in the woodworking world and hope that my videos don't try to pretend to be anything else. At least for now. It is very much trial and error though and I hope you stick around and keep me on the straight and narrow with comments that are honest. I am learning as much from my viewers as from the practise. Thank you again and happy holidays.
I know this is an older video. I too needed a drill press for my drill. I bought a milescraft. It barely functioned on arrival. I polished the slide uprights and dry lubricants the bearings and rods( uprights) . The smoother surfaces started to slide without catching but still had a lot of resistance. I bought a general brand about 35 years ago and it is still functional. Unfortunately it is in Tennessee and I am in California. I looked at some of the models like yours and thought there would be too much pressure on the sleeve bearing because of the lever arm where the drill is attached.
Good work on your videos!!! The content is good and you organize it well.
A few people say the miles craft is good value. Appreciate the kind comment too. Thank you.
Just found your channel and look forward to seeing more. It’s good to see a woodworker without thousands of pounds worth of kit making some nice stuff. I’ve just purchased the keg pocket hole jig to replace my trend one and you can see the quality difference. Buy once, cry once. Looking forward to seeing more from you. FFX is good for tools
Hi Steve. Thank you for watching and a huge thank you for the nice comment. I envy the guys with all of the tools and maybe one day will get there. But for now with the lack ion electricity in the shed it is a dream. Kreg seem to be the best and the difference, like you say, is night and day. I will check out FFX, great to get a recommendation. Thank you again.
I didn't know they'd come out with a new one. It is a revolutionary design change. Now to figure out how to get the chief accountant to allow it.
@@Immolate62: Why not just buy it, and keep you lips sealed. I'm assuming you're referring to your significant other. If questioned, you can always say I thought you wouldn't really mind.😁
Great video very helpful. I’ve got some faithful squares and a planer and seem great it’s the prestige one black not had a problem. But did buy those Jorgensen clamps I got the set of 13 for Christmas
Hi Steve, I love the Jorgensen clamps. Even now, around a year after that video, they are still my go to clamps. Really good value. I don't hate faithful tools. I use their diamonds stones and am very happy. Good value for sure. Saw a carpenters set with squares and plane in it, also a spoke shaver, was tempted to take a look, maybe do a review.
I learned years ago, after buying cheap stuff, and having to buy over & over to buy the best I can afford, and only buy it once...hopefully!
Hi Roy. Thank you for watching and commenting. It is a tough lesson but one I have now learnt.
Useful video, neat test for the squares.
Thank you.
Thank you very much. Was a real eye opener.
Nice video. I have been wood working for decades, and still fall victim to the "must have syndrome!" Getting good measuring tools is critical. Using the same tape measure throughout the project has also been a game changer. I once saw a great trick for working with a carpenter's framing square. As you did, place the short end along a factory edge, draw a line. Flip the square and draw a second line 1/32 of an inch away, you can see them converge or diverge easily. Then if they are not perfectly parallel , use a metal punch close to the inner angle if the lines converge (this spreads the (-) 90 degree angle just a bit outwards), and toward the outside corner if the lines diverge. This has turned a cheap 16 x 20 inch (40 x 60 cm) framing square into a reliable and square tool.
Please keep up the good work.
Hi Bob. That is really a relief to hear. I don't think I will eve kick the habit of must have. Love the tape measure tip. So simple yet so important. I saw the punch tip a couple of days ago and it is really strange that it works but it clearly does. I have to try it. Thank you of your kind comment and of course for watching.
Thanks for the video I'm just starting my woodworking journey. This video will save me a lot of headaches
Hi Michael. Thank you for watching. Good luck starting out. There is one for recommended beginner tools and I plan to release more. You have found a very rewarding, if not a little frustrating hobby. Best of luck.
I was at the kent garden show around 10 years ago. There are a few tool stalls that specialise in cheap,usually crappy tools. I saw a huge combination square with a 2’ rule. It was up for £10.00,I thought it’d be worth a punt,I never thought for a moment it’d be true. I thought it’d be useful for marking out. The stall holder said he’d be carting the square around for years,he was sick of looking at it. I got it for £2.00. I checked it out on some MDF using the same method as you. To my pleasant surprise this thing was spot on.
That said,most of the cheap tools I’ve bought are rubbish(some of the expensive ones aren’t that great either).
This advice is great for new woodworkers,saves money and frustration.
Hi John. I love that story. Mark that down as a win. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Even though it was a cheap tool, the fact that it was “new old stock” may suggest that it was made at a time prior to virtually everything being made like crap. You lucked out.
There was probably a time when even cheap tool manufacturers, eager to get into the market, bothered to make their products with SOME integrity.
Has anyone taught you how to correct a square that's out? Take a punch (or hard nail) and strike a dimple into the square need the interior corner to increase the angle, and need the outside corner to reduce the angle. With your checking method and this tuning method you can make an accurate tool even out of a piece of rubbish.
@@rallen7660 Hi. Thank you for the clear advice. I will give it a shot on this one and see what I can do. Much appreciated.
Only recently found your channel and it is now a favorite. I like your down to earth approach. Your demo for checking the "squareness" of squares should be very helpful to anyone new into woodworking.I might slightly disagree with your comment about the red corner clamps, I've have a pair of something similar that I've had for at least 20 years, they've been used successfully at least hundreds (if not more) times over the years. What I have found over the years (I'm 67) is that brands and price points don't always tell the full story. I've experienced expensive that have been poor and cheap that have been good. The value of 'hands on' experience shared via YT channels such as yours is a great resource.
Hi, Welcome aboard. and thank you. I am glad that you have some decent corner squares. I suspect that you bought them when they were well made and not cheap and nasty like my ones. You are right about pricing too. I think that where possible walking into a shop and feeling them first is vital. Sadly not easy where I am based but for most , it would be my recommendation. All I can do is steer people away from the bad ones on places like Amazon,
Just getting into woodworking. Very useful information. Thank you. Good luck with your channel.
Hi Travis. Thank you so much for the kind comment. Really appreciated. Good luck with the woodworking. You won't regret getting started, really rewarding.
Checking for square is easier then marking up your bench. It's called the "3-4-5 rule" and you can use it in multiples there of.
Go to the 3 mark on one side and the 4 mark on the other side. The distance between 2 points should be 5.
Pythagoras . Very good idea.
I agree on any 90 degree angle clamps. I've bought many of them......and ALL of them have been disappointments. With the portable drill guides......it depends. I also had a cheap plastic one that was terrible and not worth my time. But I upgraded to the Rockler version and it's fantastic, albeit expensive. I heard the Woodpeckers version is great too. Basically you want an all metal version with thick beefy rails....but they cost more.
Hi Jackson. You re spot on. I saw the Rockler one but am struggling to get it over in the UK. Maybe the woodpecker one would be easier. I will have to look. thank you for the advice. And thank you for watching.
@@startmaking1 You can just buy the Axminster version model 106072. They are almost the exact same thing except for color and knobs and such. They might even be the same manufacturer.
@@Jackson-T23 Hi Jackson. thank you so much for going the extra mile to help. I will save this message and check out Axminster later today. Brilliant.
The Milescraft one is quite good if you do a small modification to it, as it comes the base is very unstable but if you add a nice flat plywood base plate to the unit then it becomes quite stable and it cost considerably less then the Rockler
@@Ross-2077 Great advice Ross. Thank you
A good and honest video including demonstrations why they did not work for you. We all have purchased products that are not what they seem. Thanks
Agreed. If I can spare a few people the pain of these ones, more the better.
I have that Kreg tool and I love it. I bought as well the little clamp to keep the tool in place when I’m using and after I mark where I want the holes to go is really fast.
Hi Luis. Thank you for your comment. I have the clamp somewhere. Usually I use it if I am doing a lot of holes. I got lazy this time. Thank you for watching.
Just started to watch your videos, I'm really liking them thanks for that I like the hobby and happy I found ur videos on UA-cam
Hi. Thank you very much.
Hi Mark. First time on your channel and you now have a new subscriber. good useful and well explained content. Fantastic. Keep up the good work and thank you. 👍
Hi Stewart. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and Subbing, The perfect triple.
I loved this video! I have all 5 of these and threw them out. The kids bought me the Kreg jig you have for Father’s Day, and I LOVE it!
Hi Greg. Brilliant. What a great gift. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
i love to get several different looks and opinions at methods and tools that others use to see what works, what doesn't as well why it may work for some and not others. Thank you for making this video, it was very informative. And you backed it up by demonstration, great job!
Hi Jason. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Very much appreciated.
I just purchased and used the first set of corner clamps same as the red ones with the screws. Very much needed them to hold the pieces together even with a helper but only square at the direct area where they wood was in the vice, the top of the wood looked warped. Wish I hadnt spent the money on the wrong type of corner clamps! Thanks. Love ur videos.
You and me both Amanda. I have hung onto mine incase I do any frames. I am told that is what they are ok for. And thank you.,
Basic Graphics 101: don't scribe one line directly over the other (checking parallel). Draw two very close lines/scribes. Your eyesight is enough to gauge the gap between lines, and tell if the lines are parallel (and that the square is square). "Eyeballing" is accurate to a fraction of a degree: mis-alignment will jump right out at you. Courtesy high school drafting circa 1962.
Hi Pete. Thank you for commenting and for watching. I will give that a go next time. Thank you for the advice.
I wish I would of seen your posts before I got started woodworking…. I wouldn’t of bought some of the same junk you bought and your tips are “right one”!….. Thanks for the videos, I’ve enjoyed them all.
Howard in Arizona
Thank you Howard. I think we have all been on a similar journey in truth.
Two tips. #1: Buy once, Cry Once. #2: Stay away from Banggood's junk/knockoffs. Well, OK, 3 tips. If you're drilling by yourself, you can use a mirror (or CD's remember those?). Check out Andy Klein's video on how to do it.
Hi Hansang Bae. Great tips. Thank you. I will check out Andy's channel. Seen it before, very good videos. Thank you again .
Great channel , F clamps, I bought a set (4) of not inexpensive clamps (Axminster!) useless! I drilled a series of holes in the bar, turning them into sash clamps that could also be bolted together, not sure I would trust most speed squares to be true, best square I've got is the Bench dog, It's ....... well square. Excellent vid thanks for posting
hi Paul. Thank you for watching and commenting. What a good idea with the f clamps. I may have been lucky with my speed square, love it. That said for more precise work my starrett is where I turn.
Great tip for making the cheap F clamps usable.
I stumbled on this idea after buying some 'bargain' clamps and used a hacksaw to re-cut the friction grooves. What you can't get past is if the screw threads on the clamp bar and hand screw are really crudely cut, so that the hand clamp slides through the clamp bar. If that happens, return it immediately to the shop for a replacement or refund. This seems to be a common fault on cheap (Chinese?) clamps.
If you're on a tight budget and can't afford more expensive ones, just check them out in the store before buying.
Hi Martin. Thank you for watching and commenting. You are absolutely right, there is only so much you can fix.
I would use a Dremel tool with a cutting disk to do/redo the grooves.
@@jackwise5568 That would save a lot of time and energy.
Quite..on a budget, buying Chinese tools is hard to avoid...on principle I'd avoid them if possible. I've had the same trouble with one150mm clamp and tried your method of fixing the grip .not successful but I'll give it another go ..don't want to have to throw $nz14 away😊🇳🇿
@@neville132bbk Hi Neville. I agree, very hard to avoid. Fingers Crossed you can get the clamp fixed.
Great tip with the set square. Thank you.
Thank you.
Hi Mark, I am a new subscriber and enjoyed this video. I think comparison videos are always helpful, especially for people just getting started in woodworking.
There is a hidden compromise we all make when shopping for new tools, but we are not always aware of as we evaluate quality and price. As we move lower on the price scale we need to be aware that our expectations for how the tool will perform also needs to be lowered. When I purchase a new tool for my shop, I select the best quality I can afford at the time. Over the years, I have had the pleasure and enjoyment of using good quality tools and accumulating far less junk that failed and needed to be replaced.
Good luck with you UA-cam channel.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Words well spoken. Thank you for sharing.
I never buy a tool that I can't make money with...
Your comment is right on! In the past, one way I've saved money is purchasing used tools at garage or estate sales. I've been quite surprised at some of the real "gems" I've been able to find!
Great video again Mark. I honestly laugh out loud because the stuff you’ve identified has already passed through my hands! Those bloody red picture frame clamps and F clamps ended up in round receptacle filing cabinet in the corner some years ago. Great advice on checking squareness and pocket hole equipment. Love the videos matey. W
you are kind thank you. After reading all of the comments, it seems that there are a fair few of us that have walked the same road.
The clamps you were using for boxes are actually for joining together picture frames. I have made more frames than I can count. The pieces for the box sides are so tall there is no way just by physics those clamps were made for that use. You either have to use those clamps for the bottom & the top or better yet miter your corner joints to 45 degrees & use a ratchetting strap clamp. But, again if your box sides are tall enough, use 2 ratcheting straps to ensure your joints properly meet.
Hi Brian. Thank you for commenting. You are absolutely right. I have no idea when I bought them. Happily I can learn from the experienced eyes watching. I have one ratchet clamp that I use, a second is a good idea. Thank you for watching .
Yep this guy is over his head
This is the first of your videos I have watched and I subscribed. Love your sincerity and enthusiasm. Thanks for the extremely meaningful content, too! Thank you!
Hi Andie. Thank you so much for watching. Really kind comment too. Still learning but this video seems to have interested lots of people.
I don't know about availability in your area, but rockler has a nice drill guide, its kind of middle of the road on price but it works well, is good quality, and has a decent amount of features included, with some purchasable features too. It has worked well for me.
I like the look of Rockler. It is definitely more available in the US but I will have a hunt around as some things seem to be available over here.Thank you
I’ve got one from Milescraft that is also serviceable. Used it to make a lot of dog holes in my bench as well as holes bored for hinges and it gets the job done fine. I would still love a drill press in the future though.
Always check squares against each other in the shop. Easy to spot if it's crap. Same with levels, just flip them over
Hi Boyan. That is very good advice. On elf my issues is the location of shops nearby. A lot of what I order is online which is part of the issue. thank you for commenting and for watching
@@startmaking1 That's why i am very reluctant to buy online precision instruments save they are stated to respond to a DIN standard / i am in Europe/ Great video! My note anyway was toward beginners when they are going to buy what's cheap locally
@@BoyanSilyavski It was a great comment for beginners, I could not agree more.
For a better corner clamp, cut some 45 degree miter triangles about 6 in wide from plywood or scrap. Drill a couple of holes an inch away from the square sides 1 1/2" or so wide. Use squeeze clamp or f clamp to squeeze the work pieces together clamping with the holes as holds. Extremely versatile and cheap, and easier to set up. Can work on large work pieces like cabinets, and can clamp to your workbench as well to keep in place while setting up the joint.
Hi Bill. I love this idea and how simple it is. Thank you very much,
Great informative video and useful tips found reading through these comments too!
Thank you
Over the years I have realized that the most expensive thing in the world is a cheap tool.
Hi Michael. That is a great way of putting it. Thank you
Thanks, Mark. Only yesterday I watched another video on squares being misaligned and went to my shed to check. 3 out of 5 were not square and yes, in the past, I thought it was my fault. I had 1 x adjustable square but the other 2 I have thrown away in frustration. I will now not by cheap. Never thought about the corner clamps but will check that in about 1/2 an hour. Great work and thanks again 👍
Great that you have found the squares issue. It would have caused you issues for a long time. Glad I could help. Seems we all take very similar journeys. I now swear by my starrett square as the one to test the rest against,
I also bought the drill press tested it out never used again for the reasons you showed, if you are only using pocket holes occasionally try the trend unit for the same price as your wolf does a decent job maybe not as good as the kreg but still for the price worth looking at
Hi Mark. thank you for the comment and the advise. Will check it out.
I fell for the drill press thingy... and it is utterly useless. I'm just going to check my squares and look at my clamps. A very useful video
Thank you Simon. Sorry that you have gone down a similar route to myself bud.
Hello, nice and informative video, especially for a novice like me. Even though i agree with you concerning the uselessness or unaccuracy of cheap tools, quality ones are far from being achieveble for some people, myself included. So, i have a rule and always buy the best tool within my budget, one of them being the wolfcraft pocket jig. For me, that item is not a cheap one and even though it is impossible to make clean holes with it, none of the screws i used were sticking out like in your video (i did not use the screws that came in the set, i used screw with a washer head, for pocket holes). In conclusion, you might not use that jig properly, and after plugging the holes and a bit of an effort and some paint, no one will even see the "not so clean pocket holes". True, Kreg ones might be faster, might be better, might make cleaner holes, and i want one for sure but wolfcraft pocket jig should not be on this list since it does what is supposed to do.
Hi Serban. Thank you for such a detailed comment. I agree with you on a lot of the points. The only one for me is one that I suspect comes down to the difference between out jigs. I have adjusted the depths of the collar on the drill, I have clamped the jig in a number of different ways. I have had it for around 3 yrs and have done maybe 300 holes and not one has left the screw inside of the wood's surface. With the amount of experimenting I have done, surely one would have worked. Either way I do agree with you about budget and everything else. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting. I am very happy that you are getting good results from the Wolfcraft Jig. I plan to do a follow up video where I suggest alternatives/ improvements to the 5 tools assessed and I will try to make the Wolfcraft jig work on camera to show the real results for me.
I never really use screws for joinery, because I normally restore furniture from an ago where they did not exist yet. But, when I had to make and install some kitchen cabinets, pocket holes seemed a good enough and cheap solution. When using something once or twice you don't buy the best money can get, so no Kreg for me. However I have the same experience you did with this Wolfcraft setup. None of my (Truss head) screws stuck out, and no frayed edges either. They were deep enough to fit the entire slanted dowels in the hole and fit tightly. However, I did sharpen the drill beforehand as it seemed a little dull. I just set up the thickness of the wood, got the drill depth from the chart on the back of the jig and that's it. Worked just fine. So I did not drill 300+ holes, as 48 was enough for me but honestly I don't see any real problems with this jig if you're just using it occasionally.
I've seen videos disparaging the $7 speed squares you can get at Home Depot or Menards for not being accurate, claiming you need to spend $50-100 to get a square worth using. Might be true for someone who needs very high precision, for mortise and tenons, or where you're building a $7000 hardwood desk where a client isn't going to accept any wiggle room in joints...but for those of us who are relatively new to woodworking "pretty square" is probably good enough.
Great advice. Looking forward to more videos. Good luck the channel.
Hi Horatio. Thank you for watching and also taking the time to comment. I have a couple of easy build videos lined up for the next few weeks. Then maybe I can pop in the best 5 tools. Thank you again.
couple of points about the pocket joint. First, you can make the jig yourself from a block of scrap wood. Drill a hole into a piece of wood clamped on an angle or flat on and saw to your preferred angle. added points if you give your wood jig a metal face.
Second point. Slight user error on the small jig. Reduce the tolerance on your drill. Have the tolerance to be just enough to make the hole. That way instead of driving through the wood your drill would just spin.
Yes, the bigger jig is better but with a lot of things best practices can win out over fancy toys.
Hi Vagabond. What a great idea about making a jig. I fancy giving that a try. Love a good homemade jig. And great advice on the drill. I didn't consider that less is more. Will give it a shot asap. Thank you for commenting and for watching ,
Hi Mark, I also bought the last Item you reviewed the Drill Press, from a place that we have all heard of, It was the biggest load of rubbish that I can say that I have spent my money on, the thing was that I didn't really need it. I just got caught up with web site and thinking oh this looks ok or that looks good until the package arrives and you find your costly mistakes. Keep up the the good work. Pete..
Hi Pete. It's a shame as from the comments it seems a fair amount of us have fallen for this . the real shame is that it would be really useful if it worked.
Amazon has lots of bad stuff, one must examine the reviews wisely before purchasing...
Great advice. Thank you for commenting and watching.
1) Just found you this morning and really enjoy the videos I've watched!!! 2) I've got a couple of the items you were less than pleased with and they both work very well for me. 3) I like that you make nice stuff with a very limited workshop, I shows that you don't need the big expensive tools to make quality products. 4) Being a Brit makes your videos that much more enjoyable. I watch quite a few British shows and love the accent and find the different terminology (Rebate instead of rabbit for one) interesting. Thank You for the job you're doing.
Hi. Thank you for watching. I am very happy that they have worked for you. It seems a 50-50 split on these items. I have been working for a while in that little shed and in truth miss it a lot now it is being replaced by the workshop I am building. That said, I still wont fill it with loads of inaccessible equipment. Maybe as table saw. Happy that you like the accent too. It's the only one I have lol.
Great video thanks for the pointers. I haven’t seen a more supportive community than woodworkers. Fewer gatekeeper types, the sellout shills just peddling products for sale without skills get called out, and everyone seems to have a niche for their specialized interest. Hope those lumber prices go down. Happy making
Hi Patrick. I could not agree more. Thank you for taking the time to comment and for watching. With you on the lumber prices.
I have to say that ity's nice to see someone British so I'm looking at things available here. Also, I have bought some of those and learned the hard way. Loving the videos mate.
Thank you very much. It seems that a lot of people have gone down the same rabbit hole with starting off. Appreciate the kind comment.
Good work! I'm a hand tools woodworker and my first metal planes were from Faithful. They are really janky! Now I prefer wooden planes (although I don't shy away from metal planes, but wooden planes are also a lot cheaper were I'm from).
Hi Thomas. I see a lot of Faithful planes on Amazon and around. I love my old Stanley no 4s and to be honest the low angle Stanley is pretty good too. The Record I have is a real pain to tune and don't get me started on my Woden. I am yet to try a wooden plane. Always figured the base would not stay flat. I am interested to try though. Thank you for the comment and the advise.
@@startmaking1 Don't get me wrong, I will definitely invest in some metal planes eventually. Right now I'm more concerned with having what I need, and when you live in Scandinavia used wooden planes are everywhere. However, because of UA-cam and the pandemic metal planes are taking over.
The sole stays nice and flat no problem, but if something should happen to it, you can just reflatten it :^)
Faithful is absolute trash. It's not worth the money. My experience with it is very much like the cheap clamps you show in the beginning-I had to spend hours to make them work! And then I thought: "well, now they are kinda nice", but then I became better at what I do and realised that, no, they are trash.
@@thomashverring9484 Im going to get me a wooden plane as I think it will feel good to use it too. Faithful seem to be sub standard once you are at a level where you can use it properly. I have just got back from an outing where I found a vintage no 5 Stanley for £20. I am pretty happy but haven't yet tested the base or the iron. We will see.
@@startmaking1 Oh, that sounds great. It's so rare to see the vintage Stanley planes in Denmark, although I've made a few connections that could help me :^)
@@thomashverring9484 Here it is a lottery as to what quality you get. Blade included,
Valuable information. You taught me a critical
lesson. Greatly appreciated!
Hi Louis. Thank you for your comment. Very kind. Im glad it was of some use.
Great video! I even learned a few new karate moves in the shop from watching you test squares. I would add to your list anything from Kreg that isn’t a pocket-hole jig. I’m sure this is blasphemy to many but I found there stuff is flimsy and often awkward to use - just say’n.
Hi Mojo. Thank you for commenting. love the karate reference. I will hold out hope for Kreg as I have just bought their circular saw guide to try and counter the fact that without electricity a table saw is out of the question. Was hoping to be able to make small square cuts with it. Fingers crossed that I can get some use.Thank you for watching too.
Wish I had seen this sooner! But now is NOT too late! Thank you.
Hi ROger. Thank you for your comment and for watching . Never too late as they say.
You can fix those squares by using a file on the edges. Go slow, take minor passes and check. Repeat until it's square. Ive had to do that with antique squares.
To add to your "Dont Buy" list, I would suggest avoiding, at all cost:
Cheap hand planes. The big box stores carry cheap hand planes and they are garbage. They either dont work at all (IE: the blue painted smoothing plane with a K) or they need so much setup and be handled with kid gloves (IE: Initials are WD from the store HF) that it is not worth your money.
Cheap chisels and anything from those tractor trailer sales
Hi Timothy. Thank you for commenting. I fully agree with the additions to the list. I did a video aimed at people buying a good vintage Stanley and refurbing rather than the big star cheap planes. I will try to file the squares. I hate throwing anything out. Well, not the drill press, that one has gone. thank you for watching.
A better solution is to use a centre punch. On the one he showed use the centre punch on the upper side about 3mm from the edge near the handle. It will force the plate closer to square with each punch. Check for square after each punch
@@richardeyre481 Hi Richard. Thank you for commenting. I will give it a shot. Though, for the price I paid I am very tempted to get something more suitable for my needs. I don't do a lot of framing, if any but I do a lot of boxes. Maybe a second band clamp if that is the right name. though they are a mess to store. Won't fit nicely on my cleat wall. Oh well. Thank you for watching.
I was given a couple of those corner clamps. Will now need to go and check the squareness of then 😮
Hi Chris. From the comments. So long as they are used to make frames, they do an OK job. Apparently you can knock them back to square too. Not tried though
@@startmaking1 yep just saw on one of your letter videos 😀
Mark - What I have done is buy quality tools, damn the expense, for tools I will be using all of the time, table saw, joiner, lathe, for those one time jobs I usually buy from Harbor Freight, and if I use the tool enough to wear it out, I replace with the better tool. So far have had good luck with the "cheap" tools from Harbor Freight, but they are not used all the time. Just my way of doing things.
Hi Pat. Thank you for commenting. That sounds like a very good way of going about it. I look forward to the day that I can add all of those awesome tools to a workshop. For now, I will be avoiding the very cheapest options and spending a little more. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for the video
You took me back probably 25years,you reminded me of a technique for checking my square,for woodworking and even metalworking
Appreciated
Emil
Hi Emil. Thank you so much for the comment. I imagine that in 25 yrs you have a lot of techniques that I haven't learnt yet. Thank you for watching
Great video overall, you should try Armour tools pocket hole tools. They're auto adjust clamps are particularly fantastic.
Great advice. Thank you Jolly Oak. And thank you for watching,
Thanks but I'll stay with Kreg... In 30+ years they have never let me down...
Well I get that, but for the auto adjust clamps, I would go invest in a pair and try them out. They work much better than the kreg.
Most of the wolfcraft stuff I’ve bought off Amazon has been craptastic.
Agree on all those “do not buys” - they really are crap.
Hi MD. Thank you for your comment and for watching. Good to know I a not alone in my mistakes
This will surprise many, but after a decade of woodworking I must say the advice I give to all beginners about tool buying is: do NOT buy a table saw! Absolutely the worst choice of saw for a beginner in the craft. Now I won’t deny, I enjoy having my big cabinet saw, but if money ever got tight or I needed more space it would probably be the first thing to go. They are significantly more dangerous, more expensive, and more of a space hog than other equipment that can do the exact same task. When you buy a table saw for woodworking, you have to not only buy a saw, but you have to get a larger, nicer one to get the full functionality of it. You also need to purchase accessories, like dust collection and a few nice blades to get full functionality. You also need to make or purchase an outfeed table, and you need to budget at least 8-10 square meters of shop space to get full functionality. Overall, it’s not something for a beginner!
Hi Lyster1ne. Thank you for such a detailed piece of advice. I agree whole heartedly. While I wish I had one, I know that the time has to be right. thank you for watching.
I disagree a little with the assertion that you need to get a big saw for it to be useful, and if you are doing a lot of rip cuts, it's hard to find a good alternative. I would agree not to get the very cheap table saws, but the worksite table saws in the $600-700 range (less when on sale) work just fine for most of us. An outfeed table would be helpful. And for blades, a thin kerf general purpose or combination blade in the $30 ballpark (like CMT or Diablo) will suit you well, and probably eventually a dedicated rip blade.
As for safety, if you are new to using a table saw, learn everything you can about table saw safety before you turn on your saw. And buy the safety accessories - push blocks, push sticks, etc.
Great content, wish I’d seen it earlier in my making, thanks keep going
Hi Philip. Thank you so much for a positive comment.
The 90 degree little red clamp isn't designed for use while making a box, it's intended to be used when you're making picture frames.
Hi Thomas. You are spot on, thank you. I use it as I said as a helping hand. It was just a recommendation as a thought that may help others who, like me struggle with clamping in the early days. The odd thing though is that in the advert I saw, the guy was making a box.Thank you again for your comment.
Nice video. You earned a subscription. I'm in Florida. I have a big shop and lots of tools. Still, I find it enjoyable and reminiscent to watch a new-but-earnest craftsman learn and grow. As we Yanks say, "Keep it up!"
Tom, what a lovely comment. Thank you so much. I aspire to the big shop but want to learn the skills and earn the money at the same time to pay for it. Its a long way from a shed with no power but I am having a blast. Thank you for watching and any advise is greatly received.
@@startmaking1 I do have one bit of advise. As a watcher of crafty UA-camrs for years now, I've seen a lot of them find success and the money to transform themselves from regular people to "stars." I've seen them buy their mega-shops and climb aboard with big sponsors and patrons, and over time I just stop watching them because I can no longer relate to them. I don't know how you avoid that, or even if you should, but an example of someone who has managed it is Steve from Woodworking for Mere Mortals. Here's hoping you have to deal with this thorny problem in the not-too-distant future.
@@Immolate62 Hi Tom. Thank you for such a lovely piece of advice. I personally watch a lot of WWMM. You are right, he has kept himself very well grounded in a world where UA-cam can make stars. While on one hand I would love to see the channel grow to the extent that I could consider making it my job, I can't see my shed taking in too many tools. Joking aside, I always said that I would never buy big tools before I had the skills to match them and I stand by that. Thank you again for being so kind with your input and helpful.
When checking the squares, one should ensure the square is referenced to a known good straight edge.
Hi Rick. Very good spot. The video was running long so I cut the part where I checked the edge of the ply counter top. Annoyingly it makes the test inaccurate looking without the scene. Apart from a load of dents and chips the edge was surprisingly straight. Straight enough for this test in my opinion. Next time I would definitely follow your comment. thank you for reaching out and for watching .
Good point - I've made THAT mistake once or twice! 😄
The sandpaper disc holder behind you on the wall is worth doing a build video for sure. .. or maybe there is already I don’t know, I just subbed. I need a sandpaper organizer in my life
Hi. thank you for watching, commenting and subbing., Full house. Funny, I actually have a very early film of the disc rack build and like my early ones it is detailed and long. I was always planning on putting a few together like the scraper holder. then I found I had not recorded half of the scraper build. I was annoyed and never came back to the idea. I think it is time to dust off the old footage. Thank you for reminding me.
@@startmaking1 sometimes it’s a simple and utilitarian ideas that really take off
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 so very true
The drill guide is a cheap knock off of an expensive Woodpecker tool.
I bought it as well. I was fully aware of the risk. And I demanded a refund since it really was unacceptable.
Hi Yossi. I should have done the same. Annoyingly I bought it and didn't use it for too long before finding out that it was that bad. Live and learn I guess. Thank you for commenting and for watching.
I bought the aluminum Woodpecker version of this - and it's really good. Highly recommended. This plastic knock-off - not so much. I can see where it wouldn't hold up to even minor use. I went without such a thing for a long time - got it last year and have used it several times on projects that it was really helpful for.
@@LDBecker Thank you Lawrence
As a novice who started hand tool wood working about two years ago, i cannot agree more. I have made exactly the same mistakes. Thank you for this
Hi Soofi. My pleasure. And thank you for watching and commenting.
You should put the names, brands, model numbers of these tools so we know exactly what NOT to buy.
Hi Alejandro. thank you for the feedback. It was something that I considered but in all honesty two of the tools didn't even seem to have brands that I could find when I searched. Maybe I can include Amazon links in the description as they were all brought online. Great feedback, thanks you again.
Made all the same mistakes! Lucky that my wife bought me the fine Kreg tool for my birthday! Nice video.
Good choice! Thank you for watching Guy.
Very helpful, Mark. I was suspicious of the drill press. Thanks for showing its faults. I use the Kreg pocket hole jig. I've built cabinets, drawers, and a picnic table using pocket screws. Kreg has many how-to videos for their products, too.
Hi Jon. thank you for the comment. That was a great dodge on the drill press. It is truly awful. Worst of the bunch. I love pocket holes in the right application. I have a video on draws coming up. Nothing fancy just a Kreg demo of sorts. You send like you are already past that stage though. Thank you again for watching.
Good day to you Mr Kirkwood, from sunny South Africa! I am also a carpenter. I think it is our surname that make us choosing this profession!
Too late! I already bought all the same bad tools! You are spot on! Just wish I viewed this sooner!!!
Hi Larry. Thank you for your comment. You won't be the only one. One positive is that from the comments and from taking a second look at some of the bad tools, there are fixes around. I feel another video coming along.
Had a good laugh when you started with the Bessey clamps, I knew exactly what you would say! While shopping I foresaw the exact problem you discussed and bought the Jorgensen, the spring lock is essential for F-clamps. What I didn't foresee was how under engineered the bar itself is with respect to clamping force. I bought the less expensive 300lbs clamps, as opposed to the 600lbs or 1000lbs versions. How much force do you really need to put on wood, you'll just crush it, right? Well true, but its not the force on the wood that is necessary, but rather the strength of the bar itself because it will bend and deform during use, and the longer the bar the more it deforms. My 6in clamps have some bend, but the 12in have quite a bit more making it difficult to slide the clamp arm from end to end, plus the clamp jaw is no longer parallel. Your Jorgenson 12in in the video looked as if it was bent as well. The 600lbs and 1000lbs versions have a thicker sturdier bar, which should better resist bending and deforming. I can't say with a certainty, only because I haven't had the need to buy any new clamps yet, since the 300lbs version are still doing there job though less than efficiently, but next time I'm going to spend the extra money for the heavier duty versions. That being said I love the smaller Jorgensen F-clamps, they still work well even after bending, however not the long 48in(120cm) Jorgensen Parallel clamps. They all had bent bars while still sitting in the store, just bad manufacturing. On the other hand, the Bessey Parallel clamps were all straight as an arrow and I haven't experienced any bending even when clamped. Additionally, the Bessey Parallel clamps have some nice extra features that Jorgensen doesn't provide. In short, heavy duty Jorgensen for the small F-clamps and Bessey for the large Parallel clamps seems the best choice in my experience. Oh, and thanks for confirming my suspicions about those 90deg corner box clamps things. I have long held off on buying them, now I won't!
Hi Christopher. Thank you for the detailed reply. I had to read it twice, so much information. I better pop to the shed to check if my Jorgensen clamp I in fact bent. I did have a longer one bend on me. I am looking forward to buying my first parallel clamp, sash and f style clamps only go so far. Thank you again for watching and such a helpful comment.
I have four 24" Bessey F clamps and the bars are bent on all of them. I don't notice any bend in the 12" and 6" clamps. However, my issue with them is not that the pads on the clamps "walk" as they are tightened, rather they cause the glue joint to slip as they are tightened. I must be extremely vigilant to ensure that the glue edges stay straight/flush. I hate to resort to pin nails to achieve perfect alignment, but I am almost ready to do so.
@@marshallmurrell4583 I'm not surprised to hear Bessey clamps bend as well. This happens to all clamps to some degree, its the physics of the forces applied on the clamps, f-style, trigger, or etc. One way to combat it is to get sturdier bodied clamps as I discussed above. As to your other problem, if I understand you correctly, joints slipping is a common problem with all glue ups. In my experience, the underlying problem is miss alignment of the clamps, whether caused by slightly improper placement, or as you suggested the clamp arm sliding within those little rubber feet, or flex/bending of the bar as you tighten it shifting the angle of the force, too much glue, etc. And, even a slight bit of miss alignment (whatever the cause, it doesn't take much) will cause slipping. Imagine clamping boards with only your hands, as you compress the boards you would feel the joint slipping around on the glue. To compensate, you would adjust the angle of the pressure you apply with your hands until eventually you get the pressure just right and the slipping stops. Clamps suffer the same problem, but unlike your hands they can't adjust themselves. I frequently have to loosen my clamps and readjust them several times, and I still don't always get it right. Yes, it takes extra vigilance and quite a bit of practice/experience to get good at it, I'm still working at it after 2.5 years in the hobby. In my opinion, gluing can be the hardest and most critical part of woodworking, and I feel the most overlooked part of woodworking by our wonderful lot of woodworking UA-cam educators. I've often thought one could easily make a multiple part series just on the nuances of gluing. There's a great topic for you @Start Making, have at it! Anyway, don't give up, or...well...give up and use pin nails, both are ways fine if your happy with the end result!
@@christophermoore1774 Thanks for your thoughtful response. The bend in the F clamps to which I was referring is not the typical flex one gets as one tightens the clamp. I get some of that even with sturdy pipe clamps. The bend to which I referred is a sideways bend of the bar when the clamp is loosely clamped to a flat and level surface.
It is quite hot where I live in Texas. I often do not have enough working time to fiddle with the clamp multiple times before the glue begins to set. You did hit on one other possible remedy which I intend to try and that is using less glue. Eliminate a bit of the squeeze out and perhaps make the joint less prone to slip. I also wonder whether parallel clamps would reduce the issue.
@@marshallmurrell4583 yeah, been there, heat can murder your open time. I'm a titebond person, type 3 - 10min, I always use 3 for complex glue ups. Parallel may help, hard for me to say, I only have big 48in, so I dont use them much, they still slip around some , but less than regular f-clamps.
Ha ha, great video, thank you for helping me justify the buying a Kreg pocket hole jig rather than a cheaper alternative.
Hi Adrian. My pleasure. You won't regret it. Thank you for watching.
Great video, thanks for making it. From the owner of those red corner clamps and a cheap pocket hole jig I'm yet to use 😂😂.
Hi Jamie. Thank you so much. Sorry that you, like me, learnt the hard way. I bet these aren't the only tools of that type too. I keep finding random ones at the bottom of boxes. I feel another video coming on. thank you for watching this one.
My name is Mike and I am just starting out in woodworking however I have a general knowledge of the workings of the craft. I have a lot to learn and I love videos like yours. Great job on all of it, very informative and articulated. I don't have very much money so I will have to build from the ground up. I use these videos as a guide to figure out what tools to get. Also I'm still trying to figure out what I want to build which will also affect what tools to get. I hope to make videos just like these as well as building various items like tables, coffee tables, ect... Hope to see more, Happy Building!!!💯😁
What a lovely comment. Thank you. That is the best advice you can get. Only buy the tools you need to complete the next project. That way you will buy a tool that will get use and you will complete projects to either learn from or sell. Good luck with the builds and the videos.
Really helpful, I also struggle with boxes and nearly bought some of those corner clamps…..
Hi Kathryn. They drive you bonkers. I tried everything until I realised that cutting square was more important that the clamps. Took me at least a year.
This is a helpful video for beginners. I would totally agree with the cheap clamp and corner clamp comments. I would only make one comment about how to check out your squares and that is, that your method is fine, but I would not trust the edge of the bench without first checking closely that it is absolutely straight for at least twice the length of the square stock and is completely clear of old glue dribbles etc. as any imperfections will give you a false reading.
SuperEwokk. That is absolutely spot on. I realised this after this video and in the follow up I think that I corrected the edge that I used. The square was still off but at least thanks to comments like yours I have learnt some vital lessons. Thank you
In regards to the potentil problem with the tape riping ; dings and dents caused by it being thrown around on the work bench and in storage seans to be bigest cause of riping in my shop.
Hi Gavin. On further inspection I think you may be right. They come in a pack of ten and the corner so to speak is very rounded. Maybe I also had a dodgy batch. Someone recommended storing them in a broken fridge which seems sensible. Thank you for watching and such a useful comment.
Very interesting video. Thanks for sharing. I'm new to your channel. I'll have a look at some of your other videos during the weekend.
Hi Hans. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I am about to put out the follow up to this video too so I hope you enjoy.
Invaluable info, many thanks, just saved me a few extra pennies thank you. Also lovely to watch a British vid for a change, good ol' blighty.
Oh that is very kind. And I am glad you liked it.
Thanks for taking the time to give us this advice
Hi Johnny Boy. Thank you for your kind comment and of course for watching.
Ha! yep! I have one of those red handled horrors at 1:30 . It does clamp firmly, but as it tightens it ‘walks’ off sideways across the work, pulling the work out of alignment. Good job I only have the one. The line and flip square test works better if instead of overlapping the pen lines, you deliberately draw them a couple of mm apart. You’ll spot two close lines out of parallel much easier then overlapping lines.
Hi Contessa Adella . Thank you for your comment. Nice to know there are others like me. Great idea with the lines. I was struggling to even show it on the video. Thank you for watching
Thank you for the very valid comparisons
hi Sarah. thank you for taking the time to comment. And for such a nice one.
Great vid and will be looking out for a drill press that you think is good
Hi Philip. Thank you for your comment. I am still searching but from the advice in the comments I am close to buying the miles craft one or if I had access to a US shop maybe Rockler. Thank you for watching and as soon as I have one I will be sure to give it a thorough test.
i enjoyed your video, that second corner clamp is crap too lol tho you said it really only good as a second hand i dont think they are any good as that either.. just dont buy them everyone .. if you want some you can have mine lol and i bought that drill press thing and i dont think i like mine either tho it wasnt very cheap.. i havnt had a chance to use it really but when i got it i tried to drill a hole with it and it was super cumbersome so i dont know if that will ever get any use either.. loved your vid
Hi Salty Dawg. Thank you very much for watching and for your kind comment. Much appreciated. I would also give away my clamps in a heartbeat. The drill press is long gone. And I am not sad.
Informative video, Mark… thanks!
I bought Woodpeckers auto line drill guide because I don’t have the room for a proper dress press. The engineering is fantastic. Virtually zero runout on the drill bit and it bores at precisely 90 degrees. The price was a killer, though!
Hi Jes. Thank you for watching and commenting. IS it worth the money. If it is perfect I would consider it.
Love this video. I made all the similar mistakes and then came to the same conclusion of getting it done better. The pains of cheap painter tape really resonated with me too!
Hi Not the Stig. Thank you so much for your comment. Very kind. I still make the same mistakes now, annoyingly.
Glad I came across your channel. I'm interested what future videos you will produce.
You seem to be in a similar place to my channel & wood working. But I'm envious of your workshop. Mine is so small lol.
Hi Milmo Wood. I have just subbed to yours, looks like a lot of quality videos. My workshop is a shed with no power. one wall looks nice. If yours is smaller I am very surprised but then, great things can be made anywhere. I look forward to seeing your next build.
@@startmaking1 oh thanks my friend. I started my channel just to record stuff for myself. So my early videos are just photographs really. I decided to get in front of the camera more just recently.
Unfortunately long covid has really curtailed my output. The last 12 months have personally been quite difficult but I've put a few videos out.
Can't keep a wood worker down lol
@@MilmoWood I am so sorry to hear that you are not well. We are experiencing the long covid in my house too. It is so debilitating. I hope that your health improves and you have a great attitude, one that many woodworkers seem to have.
Hi like the channel.. where did you get your funky set square, the black triangle, ? cheers
Hi Dave. Thank you for the nice comment. And for watching, The Black speed square was fairly inexpensive from amazon.
www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminum-Carpenter-Triangle-Measuring-Woodworking/dp/B08LVGGNQQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1W7OD8UTHD17H&keywords=speed+square&qid=1659183368&sprefix=speed+sqaure%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0xUUDg2RDlRUkJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzY4NDQzMjFGOEYwTks0REM3RiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzI1ODg4QTFaNUU2WDdNSlBFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Hope that this helps. Check the size and there are other models etc.