11 Better TOOLS For Beginner Woodworkers || Spend Your Money Wisely.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Woodworking can be frustrating and expensive especially when you are starting out. I wish that knew about these tools and recommendations when I started Woodworking. None of the tools are expensive so save your hard earned cash for buying timber.
There are two at the end that Im not even sure all experienced woodworkers know about. Who knows....
For a comprehensive list of all my tools - www.start-maki...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Products seen in this video (Affiliate Links )
Gorilla CA glue - UK LINK - amzn.to/3ykX9si
US LINK - amzn.to/3CqeGRF
Super Thin CA Glue - UK LINK - amzn.to/3yl6rom
US LINK - amzn.to/3X1qTpr
Blue Painter's Tape - UK LINK - amzn.to/3T2YThQ
US LINK - amzn.to/3qFaye1
Activator Spray - UK LINK - amzn.to/3SRG7Kq
US LINK - amzn.to/42CoJxJ
Titebond TiteBrush - UK LINK - amzn.to/3rBstj6
US LINK - amzn.to/3p64ryL
Large Gluebot - UK LINK - amzn.to/3rDiR7a
US LINK - amzn.to/3Np09fs
Small Gluebot - UK LINK - amzn.to/3Mb0Kim
US LINK - amzn.to/43Ts9gw
Trend 5 pieve Countersink drill bit set - UK LINK - amzn.to/3ALE5VX
US LINK - amzn.to/3Pb69d4
Adjustable magnetic ring drill attachment. - UK LINK - amzn.to/3wvHG89
US LINK - amzn.to/3qHmsEh
Marking Knife - UK LINK - amzn.to/3T4mzlV
US LINK - amzn.to/3CrC2q7
Makita impact Driver - UK link - amzn.to/3T1XY1f
US link - amzn.to/40EIRPY
Makita 5Ah Battery - UK LINK - amzn.to/3AZ07ns
US LINK (6ah) - amzn.to/3NHYEcF
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other Tools that I love
DUST PREVENTION
GVS Ellipse Mask with p3 filters - UK LINK - amzn.to/3QOV0N3
US LINK - amzn.to/3NtYLs4
SQUARES
Speed Square 7" - UK LINK - amzn.to/3LDVrbl
US LINK - amzn.to/41cVGQu
Starrett Combination square - UK LINK - amzn.to/3M8TwgN
US LINK - amzn.to/3HJRuRz
Small Square 2" - UK LINK - amzn.to/3QPEQD3
US LINK - amzn.to/3X40XJO
Framing Square - UK LINK - amzn.to/3QPEVGR
US LINK - amzn.to/3Jap3Na
CARD SCRAPERS
Cabinet Scraper - UK LINK - amzn.to/3BPhdE7
US LINK - amzn.to/3TYWiWP
Burnisher - UK LINK - amzn.to/3BOKv63
US LINK - amzn.to/3qBmcXb
CLAMPS and CORNER SUPPORTS
Jorgensen 12" f clamps - UK LINK - amzn.to/3KyYPUl
US LINK - amzn.to/3W56rlw
Workpro one handed quick clamps - UK LINK - amzn.to/3VMPAEp
(IRWIN) - US LINK - amzn.to/3p4B5kk
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. It is a small income to the channel at no extra cost to the buyer.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can follow the channel on social media.
Instagram -------------------------- / startmaking2022
Website --------------------------- www.start-making.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you find this video entertaining or in any way helpful please click the Like, comment and Subscribe.
You can share it with your friends with the following link
• 11 Better TOOLS For Be...
My channel for subscriptions and to check out more videos is -
/ @startmaking1
#BeginnerWoodworking #BeginnerTools #diy
Thank you for watching and happy woodworking.
Please check out the Affiliate links in the description. A like or comment also is very much appreciated.
I wish I was able to use your affiliate links for US purchases. I've snagged a few things off your recommendations but just looked up a US seller equivalent. Cheers!
@@brentreitherman5268 Hi Brent. Appreciated you wanting to. Means a lot . I have them now in some newer videos, sadly like everything else in this journey, it seems to take me a long time to figure out how to do it. Glad some of it was useful. And thank you for watching. And commenting.
Hi Mark, I am sure you have heard this before but I wish I had watched your videos first. I made every purchase mistake imaginable. I also work out of an 8 x 10 shed and it is cluttered, messy and very unorganized. You have given me a lot of ideas to make my shed. Much more organized. Unfortunately, it will be a slow process as I have already put in a lot of things that I thought would help me, but ended up not. Keep making those videos and I also think you have the perfect solution for world peace. If we all became woodworkers and watched all these woodworking videos and think about building things for gifts, family and friends or helping our community it would be a much nicer world and we wouldn’t have time for RV terrible things and humans each other take care of yourself and please keep on making these videos, warm regards Gary
I read this a few times as it made me smile. Thank you so much for taking the time to write it. You are right, this community is a wonderful place where people share and encourage and I want to add whatever I can to it. Much appreciated Gary.
Gluebot have a great business model- sell empty bottles for twice the price of full ones!
Glue removal- I use scraps of aluminium sheet (from projects) and cut to an angle of ~75deg. Held at an angle the scrape both sides of a 90deg joint. Ali is less likely to mark the wood, and if you forget to wipe it off on your kitchen roll (you do keep a roll in the workshop, yes?) a quick stroke with a file removes the dry glue. If it gets too bad, throw it away- they are free.
Fast drilling- it is not that it is an impact driver, it is that it is another 'drill'. I sometimes, on a large project, have three drills and an electric screwdriver on the go. Bare drills are so cheap, why struggle? Yes, one of them can be an impact driver.
Good idea with the aluminium. Gluebots, although expensive are very effective for practicality but then I guess it depends on what you get used to.
In regard to the marking knife: If you are cutting with a table saw, miter
saw or circular saw, the marking knife can help you avoid tear out.
(on a table saw, the knife would be used on the bottom side of the stock)
Hi Zapa1pnt . Great comment. Thank you. You are absolutely right and I should have included at least the circular saw recommendation. I am suffering form table saw envy right now. Thank you for watching and keep the comments coming. I seem to learn more in the comments that anywhere else.
You can even make a knife wall to easily start your cut in the perfect spot. On UA-cam they often knife wall the whole piece, but you only need enough to start the blade for proficiency. 1 chisel width should be fine.
The rectangular protrusion on the yellow lid is designed to house the red rubber cap (to save it dangling.) As for superglue, the other day I was using it on leather (no contact adhesive. Ended up with it everywhere, especially on my fingers. I managed to remove the glue with a nail sanding thingy. When I came to use my phone couldn't get into it because I'd sanded off my fingerprints! Doh!
Oh wow. Thank you Costa. Then, now I have no complaints on the Gluebot. I have done exactly that. No other way I have found to get superglue off. As always thank you for watching.
Was thinking exactly the same 😂
@@startmaking1 You can get superglue 'debonder' which dissolves dried superglue.
@@jthomlin Hi Joe. I had no idea. That will come in very handy. Googling it right now. Thank you
Use Acetone to clean CA glue. It's the same thing as nail polish remover. You can soak the tips if they get clogged also.
I never found a need for a marking knife because no matter how fine the line is the kerf is wider. Only good thing is the cutting of the wood fibers to help with tear out.
If I use a marking knife I have to remember which side of the line is the good piece. If I use a pencil I just mark the cutoff side.
Hi. I do like it when people tell me their techniques and favourite methods. It shows me how many different ways we all have of doing fairly similar jobs. I use it for the tear out and because at the time of the video I was using fairly rubbish pencils. I also like it for chisel work. Keeps me from too many mistakes.
the cut is still to be made on the waste side of the line, not along it, either with pencil or marking knife.
unless I misunderstood your comment 🤷♂️
marking knife will always give a cleaner finish
@@jaychet what I meant was when I use a pencil I mark a line on the off cut side but with a marking knife that is difficult. I could draw it easier than trying to put in words.
Thanks, Mark, for sharing this video. Great tips.
Thank you for going back and watching the older ones.
keep the videos coming im just starting out and love your frankness
Hey Glasgow John. Thank you very much. Really appreciated. Don't hesitate to comment or ask any questions. there are a lot of really helpful people who watch and reply to the comments
You can also use a drinking straw to remove glue squeeze out from inside joints. Flatten it a bit, it will fit into the joint and the straw will collect ( internally) the glue. Of course the larger the diameter the more internal volume it will contain. Try it. I keep straws on my bench for such.
Great advice Wilbur thank you
I use my glue towel around a putty knife to get inside corners.
It's the same method I use for perfect caulking joints.
Squeeze in caulk, finger it in further, wipe with sponge, scrape putty knife along edge, wipe with sponge again, wring out towel (t-shirt type material), wrap around putty knife, scrape along the edge, wringing out as necessary to stay clean. This gets you a perfectly vertical caulking joint that blends into painted surfaces or gives nice transitions to tile work.
For silicone you can skip the sponge, and use rubbing alcohol instead of water for cleanup. Taping can help if needed.
i will add a tip, glue a washer on top of your speed marker and pencils and glue small magnet on the underside of a wall shelf, now you got a place to easy leave and take a pencil during working, onstead of leaving pencils all over the table, pockets and behind the ear
Excellent tip. thank you.
Recently saw a less than enthusiastic review about the GluBot, from a German pro woodworker who had been using it for a few years: the thing that keeps the cap attached will wither and deteriorate, the nozzle clogs up, so does the narrow pipe, and due to its design the thing is a nightmare to clean. I’ve never understood the problem in the first place: just buy a small bottle and refill it. Or any other squeeze bottle.
That is interesting. I have had mine around a year. So far, no issues. Top can be a little stiff, but the nozzle has clogged once, and there are plenty of spares. To be honest, I think I will go to a 2 bottle system. This for accurate work and a ketchup style diner bottle for larger applications. That, for me, is the only drawback that bugs me now, you just can't get a lot out easily. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
If they make a drill for 1/32 with a counter sink bit, I'd buy one. But I tend to need thinner drill bits for what I do.
Another option for glue clean up is a plastic straw.
Hi Bekah., . Great suggestion. I wanted to try but then people say a fair amount about plastic and I didn't know if I would be making too much waste. You are right about the drill bit. Only really works for the most standard of sizes I guess. Thank you for commenting, and for watching
@@startmaking1 I've always just rinsed out the straw. Another is I've taken an old gift card and filed a few slits in it for spreading out glue
@@bekahmarie489 in that case. I had better give it a go. Thank you
I have come late to your Channel but catching now. One suggestion about the Tite Bond silicone glue spreader. May I suggest silicone pastry brushes, Amazon have quite a choice and great choices. I cannot vouch for longevity as I do not have aTite Bond brush to compare with but it works for me. Keep up the great work, really interesting.
Hi E C. thank you for the tip,. to be honest as good as the brush is, the bristles still snap off quite regularly. I think I will check out the Amazon ones you recommend. Thank you for your kind comment.
Hi Mark, I'm a newcomer to your channel, some great tips here. CA glue is a real help in the workshop when you want to get things done! Looking forward to watching more of your videos 👍🏻🇬🇧
Hi. And welcome. And thank you for the kind comment.
I started out with 2 drills. One with a drill bit and a driver but in the other. It worked. However, after I got the impact driver I discovered that the torque on my hands was way less when the screws start getting tight. My drill felt like it was going to twist your arm off with all the torque. Also a impact driver is wonderful on really tight screws and bolts to get loose.
The drill I have now is so heavy and torquey that I suffered the same thing. The impact driver may need ear plugs but that is the only down side I can see.
@@startmaking1 I completely agree 👍.
Seriously - my favorite tool is the Worx Switchdriver cordless drill - I keep the drill bit and driver bit for the task at hand - and in a quick second, can switch from pilot hole drilling to driving in the screw - same tool. and less than $80 (USD) on sale. - I'm new to all this - but have built three 8'x4' raised garden boxes out of pallet wood this year - this tool was essential !
@@elcarpe9186 i have heard a few times that they are very good.
I'm loving milwaukees impact gun. So much more power compared to my 15 year old makita. It's too much power! Thankfully it can be toned down with multiple power settings. It also just eats bits! You just push them in and it locks on, then when you pull the lock it just plops the bit in your hand. What's next? Vacuum bits!
They even have a my-key version which is a connected device. You can literally turn your impact gun into a Torque wrench by specifying its Torque settings in the app! It also has next level anti theft. If you activate it. The next time the tool gets near wifi, it shuts off permanently, if it ever goes in for service, it alerts them it's a stolen device and where to send said tool. If you ever get it back, you can unlock it!
The Glue Bot spout cap fits onto the fill lid center post. That keeps it from dangling and getting in the way.
Hi KEn. I am embarrassed to say that it took me way too long before I started doing this. And I did not figure it out for myself. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting. Much appreciated
A worthwhile sharing of experiences for the benefit of others. Thanks
Thank you for watching so many
Double sided tape should be compulsory in every workshop. For glue removal in angled corners take a plastic drinking straw cut at 45° and voila perfect glue removal tool, glue accumulates in the straw.
100% agree. At the time of filming I was all about blue tape and CA glue, now I love my double sided tape. Great tip with the straw too.
I use my moist towel wrapped around a putty knife for cleaning inside corners. The backside of this tubers glue applicator has a mini putty knife type thing that would work too.
I like to use water to clean my glue off the wood before it's a problem.
I got cheap bbq basting brushes made of silicone for spreading glue. Walmart had them for about $1 each if you bought them from the garden & grill center vs the kitchen area for 90% the same thing. Glue doesn’t stick, contact cement comes of with some mineral spirits, and they’re easy to replace as needed. Great video. Thanks for the tips
Hi Patrick. That'd a great tip. Thank you. I have seen some silicone spatulas use too which seems to work well. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Nope not the same. I'll take the tool made for the job. I would have to customize the tassles to work properly and would still be missing the mini spatula which can be used to glue inside mortises and you can wrap a towel around for glue cleanup to get in those corners.
Do you apply BBQ rub with a sifter? No, it's the wrong tool for the job...
The Gluebot red cap, if you look at the lid of the bottle, has that little nub the same shape as the inside of the red cap, put it on the lid and it stays out of the way. Removes that perceived drawback.
Hi. It took me way too long to realise this. Well, it actually took you all telling me. Thank you, it helped no end.
Thanks for the links - FYI the small gluepot link is a duplicate of the Titebrush one.
Love the content!
Hi Tim. What a legend. Thank you for pointing that out. I would never have known. Thank you for watching too.
I have enjoyed your channel from day one and I believe that you guide new woodworkers in the right direction. When you talk price you refer in pounds and if you were to show in the background the imperial equivalent it would make your channel better and friendlier in the eyes of many including subscribers who only know the imperial method. Keep up the good work !
Hi Michael. What a great comment. First of all thank you for your ongoing support.How amazing,. And for the compliments. And finally for the constructive feedback. That is a very very good point. I am currently editing a video with pricing in it for a hand plane in pounds and will figure out the dollar value to pop in. Great advise. Thank you
You want imperial costs displayed!? Where in the British Empire do they still use £ sh d ? Surely not in Hong Kong or USA
Hi from South Africa, another thing that would probably work for the glue removal, corners and clamped boards, is a square edge window putty knife. I have also used a flat head screwdriver.
Hi Angus. You are absolutely right. Bit of flex to it too which would help. Flat head screw driver for emergencies.
#4 On the Glue Bot main lid there is a tab that the nozzle cap fits on for storage that prevents it from dangling.
Great point. Cant believe how long that took me to realise.
And now I'm picturing a glue bot with a main lid!
Mine looks like R2D3PO! Doing "I'm a little teapot"
I still reckon an impact driver is the best investment in a tool I’ve ever made - there are parts of my house wouldn’t exist without it.
After putting in well over 1000 screws this week i think I am in agreement.
id like to recommend the erbauer cordless range.
amazing quality for money, all same battery, i dont know how long they would last for professional use, but mine have been going a long time with fairly consistent hobbyist workload
Thank you. I hear good things. Good value. especially for a hobbyist, like you say.
Forget about cross head screws, use Robertsons. Square head.
Good advice. I have that style for my kreg. But one thing with the square bit is that if the bit gets rounded even a little they slip really easily. I don't get that with the star shaped ones.
Finish the surfaces around the joint before you glue. Stops the glue soaking into the grain
Thank you Jimbo great advice.
I brought a switch driver from worxs fantastic drill. Has a drill holder and bit holder you push a button turn the head to drill or the bit dead easy
Hi Steve. Thank you for the recommendation. This is the second time in a week or so that someone has mentioned this drill. It looks really cool but I was worried about the wear and tear on the mechanism. Though if it is a well made as my drill it can service just about anything.
@@startmaking1 I put up all the plywood in my 16x10ft shed including ceiling it never missed a beat there are settings you can adjust for the driver bit. I’ve have loads of worxs tools including two circular saws and the one that does a jigsaw and reciprocating saw work well. The circular saw that lifts up one side the exactrack I think it’s called I put that through it’s paces and battery life I found great
@@Steve-dr7rr That is brilliant. Thank you.
I don’t know if this helps but Rutland do 40 glue brushes I think there. £30 also a small roller if you have a bigger piece like chopping boards
Thank you Steve. I have been meaning to take a look at Rutland . The roller is one thing that I could definitely get use out of.
Impact gun. I got a new milwaukee to replace my 15 year old makita. OMG! I can just push bits into it and it locks on! Its got power to get you into trouble... But dont worry it has multiple power levels and a self tapping screw setting! If you get the my key version, it will even link to your smartphone and you can set tourque limits! Not to mention anti theft technology.
My makitas were getting old, the motors smelled like they wanted to retire, and they have the power of yesteryear.
I think they have magnetic auto-chucks too, or maybe the magnetic ones always have been?
I've moved away from using phillips head screws. I use torque bits. Even the square head falls short when driving screws all day. Phillips bits are just anchient technology for me now.
could not agree more on the Philips heads. From the workshop build I can say how much of a pleasure it was using Torx. I also find the square, Kreg style ones bizarre as they can slip worse than Philips.
@@startmaking1 ya it's because the square bits still have a taper to them. Once the square rounds up a bit it just wants to push itself out. The torx has such a slight taper it's a non issue, and so many points you can't round it out if you try. They only break on you eventually, even when they have a decent twist in them they still seem to keep going.
YEs, that is what I found with the square bits, drives me nuts. Torx all the way from now on.
The great thing about the Robinson (square) screw is you don't need a magnetic bit to hold the screw to the bit like that of the Phillips. I have never used the Torx screw so I don't know if it also has this feature.
@@efgee its works even better with torx. The torx bit and the screw share a more intimate connection so they snuggle right up to each other, leaving your screw stiking out in a perky fashion like its excited about something! The square bit by comparison looks a bit flacid at times, particularly as the bit begins to round off as always seems to happen with the square bit. Torx bits tend to last until they snap off in the screw, another added bonus (longevity).
The everbuild yellow cap glue is great there’s two types both great comes in 20 or 50 grams. I use a activator call flash for my scale modelling and seems to work on other makes
Hi Steve. Thank you for the recommendation again. I am testing another brand out at the moment. A UK available one and I forget the name. Seems ok so far, will take a look at your one though too. Thank you
I do consider the Cordless Impactor just as much a necessity as the Cordless Drill. The impactor is just so much easier to drive in screws and infinitely better on your wrist. Does not matter if you are a new DIYer or a professional, invest in a Cordless Drill and Cordless Impactor.
Good advice.
Hey Mark. Great video. Instead of a marking knife, try a straw. I just started doing it and it's awsome
Hi Aron. Thank you so much and thank you for commenting. I was trying to avoid straws as I was worried about plastic waste. Then in another comment, it was suggested to wash the straw. How did I not think about that. So simple.
And one will last, or metal straw
@@aronboersma4166 on it
You can use a straw to scrap the internal corners
I was going to include this in the video but then my wife suggested that I should not as it was bad for the environment. It is a great tip though.
@@startmaking1 could use paper straws
very true, I wonder if they would work as well in the corners . Probably.
@@startmaking1 you could also be quite efficient with a straw cutting off the end once the glue has dried so it's not 1 straw per corner
Good information and great video .
Thank you Steve. You are very kind.
Some great ideas, Mark. Definitely will get a GlueBot soon. Been using a 1 litre Evo-Stik bottle, which is ok. Do you fill your Gluebot from a large container, such as the Titebond 1 gallon jug? Got an impact driver recently and the relief of not having to constantly switch from drill-bit to screw-bit holder is so good.
If you can, get the medium glue bot. Not sure if there is a large but I got a small one first and it was way too small. good but too small for what I do. You are spot on, I refill from a gallon of titebond. I use 3 though as it is more versatile for what I need, food safe and outdoor etc. The impact driver is awesome. one thing though, wear ear protection. I only used it for the larger tools and thought that drivers were fine but mine is really noisy and a certain pitch.
You need one of these it will half your record on drill and screw: DEWALT Drill Flip Drive Kit (DW2702)
Great advice. And thank you
Superglue saved me such alot of time when i made my tool holders for my cleat wall
Hi The POG Senpai. Great point. I don't have a brad nailer and superglue and activator would have been a great replacement while the wood glue dried. Save me a few screws too. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
When fitting countersunk screws, use the countersink bit first, then drill the hole. You'll get perfectly smooth countersinks every time.
Hi Ray . Thank you for the advice and thank you for watching
you are doing the glue bottle wrong the red tip goes on top.
Yep., Cant believe I missed that
Excellent video, new subscriber
Great to have you Mark, Subbed right back. =Figured you were a UA-camr from the great name.
If you use the excelerator it goes off in seconds
Yes. Who would have thought how useful that stuff would be.
New paint looks good.
Hey Pazmania OH. I did wonder if anyone would notice. Thank you very much. You are the first. Seems silly to decorate such a shabby shed but I was a little bored of the ply. Thank you for watching another and for commenting.
Just curious on the glue bot does the red cap not just slip onto the little circle in the centre on the yellow lid (like a pen cap and pen)
Yes, yes it does. And it took me way too long to know that lol.
Actually you HAVE to call it CA Glue, Superglue's legal team is nasty.
Oh wow. I didn't even think that it would be a brand issue. Very good point. Thank you
Some classics there but if I may say it feels a little North American and they have done these to death.
Have you tried the Bostick / Evo stick interior or exterior wood glue in the green or blue bottle? I've found the lid to be very good for cleaning and I've had mine open for months with no problem. Not a UK brand but feels less of a US UA-cam import.
Similar with blue tape, what is it? What happened to our traditional cream coloured masking tape, is this stuff the same?
With your willingness to get in to the shed and try stuff, you could really help translate US trends and products for the UK viewer and tell us what really works.
Hi Adam. Thank you for your comment and for watching. I have not tried the Bostick glue yet. I was frustrated with the gorilla glue and needed a quick fix. I think that the fact that I was watching US channels definitely led me this direction. Sadly I would love to try and aim at the UK market solely with these videos but I am already struggling for views and from the views that I have the percentage from US is around 60 to 70. Hard to know whether to try to keep it widely aimed or narrow focused. That said, I am more than willing to test out most things in the shed. I will take look into UK based brands for future videos. As far as Tape is concerned I find the blue version stronger and with a little more stretch. Just my experience though. As for this being done to death, you are absolutely right, my aim though is to try and get a wide range of videos that I believe in and back, here on my channel. Some will be familiar. Probably not the best way to go about UA-cam especially as trends get views but I can't face epoxy river tables and large slab builds. There will be more builds in the future though as they are the enjoyment for me even if they don't necessarily get views. Thank you you as always for watching and your honest advice. It is always appreciated, please keep it coming.
Blue tape is not as grippie as masking tape.
@@brucewelty7684 I do find blue tape a little more stretchy though which is handy for clamping
Did you take off the clamps for your last tip?
Good question., I really hope so.
The first time I used an impact driver (just a few weeks ago) I needed to drive a somewhat inaccessible screw at the back of a 24" (61 cm) deep cabinet. Sheared the head right off as soon as it hit bottom. I had bought one of those bit holders that's supposed to prevent that but that didn't allow enough grab in the slightly angled position I had to use because of the inaccessibility. I'm old school and usually prefer a regular screwdriver (or bit brace with driver) but I'm more accepting of a few conveniences as I enter seniorhood....
p.s. I was going to make a joke aboit how much you sound like Russell Brand to these Yankee ears. Do you by chance come from the same area?
Hi Mike. I will take the Russell Brand comment as a compliment, I think haha. To be honest he is more London but as we dont have very Northern area accents I can see the comparison. It is quite the step from a brace to an impact driver. I take my hat off to people who use the more traditional tools.
Impact guns have a lot of power in those impacts. Well depending on the impact gun! They are known to break bits. I would make sure both the bits and bit holder are "impact rated" or stated to work with impact guns.
A big game changer is changing the type of screw. I vastly prefer a Torque head screw in all circumstances, if I can't get that then a square bit is decent. Philips bits are ancient technology for me now. I only use them if forced into it. Phillips bits break and bend until unusable too fast. Square bits hold up better, but still suffer the same fate. Torque bits last easily 2-3x as long as anything else, one day it will break, but it won't ever push you out of the screw.
This all gets into ease of use as well. Both Philips and square bits require more force to be applied, requiring more strength and offering less finesse when screwing things in. The Torque bit is just superior science. It will have your arm less tired at the end of the day, and the cost of swapping screws is down to a couple bucks per box. Which should get charged to the customer anyways.
One bit jumping into your fine work can cost much more than one would ever want!
Lol had to look up a bit brace! That was my 1st drill! My grandpa gave it to me! It didn't survive being a teenager... Thank the heavens it's dining in Valhalla!
Dbl sided tape ?
Great suggestion. I have only recently started using it more and more.
Dude, this stuff has been done like hundreds of times on the tube , if you want to distinguish youself from all the others , you will need to come up with something totally different 🙄👍👍
Hi Ifernand. Thank you for your comment. And for watching. Hard to know what people want. Build videos don't seem to entice people like they did.
That is true it has but most these are American woodworkers or content creators and half the stuff you can't get here or costs fortune to get.
@@michaelwillson6847 Hi Michael. Thank you for commenting. In many ways he is right but what you say is really why I released the video. That and annoyingly the video I was promising you on small items that sell well was lost when my Mac crashed yesterday. I have the footage but need to start again with the edit. Really annoying. Still, I should have it for 2 weeks time.
@@startmaking1 well look forward to that seems to be a common problem the now. Woodstock resin had the same problem lost whole video (ps go check out his channel top guy and woodworker) I've learned allot from him. It's true though allot the stuff the put out is useless or hard to get they all talk about dado blades etc etc and the stuff over there seems really well priced try buy stuff like it over here it's 3-4 times the price 🏴👍
Doesn't matter - we forget things (esp. if you're not actively making (yet)) - so, good reminder! (and: waiting for your free tips).
Dude , this stuff has been done like hundreds of time on the tube, if you want more viewers you need to distinguisch youself and do something different 😁😁👍👍
Hi Ifernand. Thank you for your comment. And for watching.
How about we all do each other? That would be different!
I think the man's doing just fine on his journey. I'll take tool advice even if I already feel like I'll know it all. You never know what tips there are to be had!
If anyone wants good cheap speed squares, Swanson is the one to beat. Unless you need your speed square accurate to tight tolerances on measurements. Similar price to Empire, yet much better. They aren't anodized all fancy so when it scratches you won't feel any pain, they have all the edges softened so it won't scratch, they filled the markings for high visibility, and gave it all a matte finish so it never hits you with a glare! The only downside is it doesn't have holes every 32th of an inch like a woodpecker version. But I don't use my speed square like that. Mine are accurate to within 2 hairs off a knats ass over eleventy two feet!