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Boat Restoration .Gelcoat, compounded back. DeWalt DWP849X, 3M compounds, no Wetsanding!
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- Опубліковано 24 жов 2020
- Kind of a "how to" on bringing back the looks of an older boat. I'm not claiming perfection here. there were some deep gouges we could only reduce in appearance. Most of the scratches and scuffs were taken care of and the overall shine and color were very much restored.
I normally never use Super Duty but to save time on the sheer amount of issues we had before us, I went to it. Plus as this wasn't used on the white gelcoat, I didn't fear a color change from the compound.
Finess-it EX AC. I mess up the name a few times in this vid. If 3m wants to make me remember the name, they could try to change something like the label colors, bottle colors (It is slightly darker in hue) or cap from the last version of their product... I did a test you might like. Compounds, 5, on black gelcoat.
• 6 Compound TEST on bla...
Enjoy
I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
🔆🔆Want to help me make some changes @ 3M? Think about giving them a call and tell them to look at my videos. Give them a piece of your mind. Help me light a fire under their butts.
Phone: 1-866-279-1235 (general marine)
Phone: 1-877-666-2277 (waxes and compounding stuff) 🔆🔆
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructuremarine.com/fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/DDLee
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee
![How To Fix Boat Gelcoat Spider Cracks, Hairline Cracks, and Crazing [MATERIALS LIST👇] | BoatUS](/img/n.gif)
This guy really knows his stuff! Amazing work!
Yeah, Herbert rocks! Thanks Cody.
Lee
excellent job man, thanks for the video. Your man in the hoodie with the strings hanging down by the buffer had me on edge, not going to lie.
Yeah, I always tell them to cut them. This year, no goodie strings, they figured it out.
Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for inspiring me to tackle a simpler area on my boat.
Glad I could help. Good luck.
Wow ! An Amazing Transformation !!! I cannot believe you totally removed that awful place where 1,000 rabid piranhas attacked the hull !!!
You and Team = Still the Best !!!!
Thanks. The owner was very happy as were we. A am always appreciative of your support.
Piranhas lol
Bayliner? Im surprised the buffer didn't melt right thru the paper thin hull!
Oddly, the red/white Bayliner I did, sun shown through the sidewalls.
This one was built a bit better than their older stuff.
@@Local_Boydidgood There was a time when those things were sketchy af.
They helped make boating available. I can't hate them too much. They never became great but good enough to last a while and have fun with a middle-class family budget. They've paid my bills for almost 20 years. I can't hate but I can agree, they used to be a joke.
Lee
Great job on the boat as usual. Well done on the video too, best yet. Imho. Props to Herbert too.
Herbert is fun to watch grow into this. No worries, just patience and calm learning.
Thanks T!
(we shouldn't have to be directors, we're detailers for God's sake)
I scrolled through many videos to find this one. SUPER Excellent job. It would be awesome if you had Amazon links in the description to the products and you could make a bit of affiliate $. I’m going to have to watch this over again on my computer and pause to see exactly what 3M products you’re using to make sure that I buy the right ones.
I bought a 33ft hunter sailboat last fall and new to all of this. It sure would be nice to make her shine!
She’s a little lighter blue than this bayliner but this video gives me a good idea of what I’m looking at as a complete newbie. I’ll have a lot more surface to work with and hopefully I can borrow some scaffolding from the marina before she goes in the water.
Also the change of music towards the end was fun because it flows well with the stages of the project.
Hi Sü, thanks!
Congrats on the new boat, I mean project list that floats. I'm teasing but, not really. It's a labor of, sorry, labour(for my Kannaddian subs) love.
A few saw horses and a plank work too but be aware of your footing and if new, this could get you off balance if the buffer catches something and wrenches you sideways. A Geni lift, scissor lift or some scaffolding (good call)
I'm glad you found the music entertaining. I'm not very fancy with my videos always. I try when I have time.
I don't want to tell people where they should buy these things, let them bargain hunt like I do 😊 I do typically have some info in the description or the video, just so you can pause it, silly.
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (their Mirasol and fire glaze are my favorite products)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you. I think I have to say that.
I don’t agree with some if the methods, but great information and great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I'm not saying every boat needs this. I'm just showing what's possible with a rotary buffer, a wheel and some compounds. You might try ua-cam.com/video/VlJCwSxfrfI/v-deo.html
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you for the info! I appreciate you all
Sure. More than 1 way to skin a cat. The only thing I won't do is wetsand. Not that there's never a need for it but I'm generally faster doing thjngs my way. A boat that needs sanding is passed on and I've only seen 2 in 15 years.
Anytime, thanks for watching.
Thanks- the time watching 2 of your vids paid off in results already. Restoring shine/glitter on a '79 Glastron cv23. Returned the AIO 3m and now using Heavy Cut. Returned the girly-man pads I bought, asking where you source your beefy double sided pads. Menards, O'Reilly's, and West Marine have no such products locally. - Thanks for sharing-h
I order through Fisheries Supply in Seattle, West Marine or 3m.com
I'm glad you got something out of these vids. Thanks!
This! Thanks
That, you're welcome. 😂👍🏼
Hey there. Have a 2011 white sea ray that has been neglected by my Uncles Family. Never really been cleaned and no hull work at all. Ive bought a rotary buffer and thought i would start with 3m super and then go to 3m perfect it ex and then wax. Or should I just go super, heavy and then wax.
Thanks much. Love your videos and attitude.
Hi. Sorry about your Uncle's family.
You can but it'll take a lot of passes with Perfect-it. I know it isn't cheap but if you already have Super, a buffer and Perfect-it, Heavy Cut is just going to save you time and easily fix things you might have missed with Super. Using all 3 will generally (80% of the time) give you the best results. Results that after a good wash and dry, make a great anchor for the bonding of your preferred "wax".
You can sometimes get a great surface from Super-Duty but it's rare and I'm pretty good and even to me, it's rare. Heavy Cut fixes, everything leftover from Super-Duty, quickly and can finish almost as fine as Perfect-it ex ac.
You do whatever you want but if the bottle is new, return it and get Heavy Cut instead. Your shoulders will thank me. Let it finish (nice reflection of the sun or a bright light) Clean. Inspect. Protect (use a soft foam pad to apply and a fresh soft foam pad to remove the protectant on a random orbital if available)
If you only have the rotary, a soft nylon pad spun slowly and with as much care as but with 1/10th the effort as you used the wool with compound. Wipe with a clean microfiber and keep it clean and once a month, use a spray detailer to "top off" the 'wax' used and keep things happy.
You do you but since you asked, swap Perfect-it ex ac for Heavy Cut or buy Heavy Cut and enjoy boating. Fish don't care and people bouncing on tubes or crossing the wake on skis or boards, don't care.
If you don't like the results, there's always next time. I'm proud of you for getting in there and trying to do this. I wish you well. Hit me up if you get pissed off at the buffer, the boat or anything I said here or in a video.
Lee
@Local_Boydidgood wow. Thanks for the walk through. Have not bought compounds yet so excellent advice. Really appreciated!
Anytime. Use 3M wool pads to compound. Nobody makes more aggressive pads (some wobble. Buy 4, return the wobbly ones)
@Local_Boydidgood any other wax you can suggest. Seems I cannot get fire glaze up here in Canada. Thanks much.
Flagship liquid wax by Meguiar’s. All the stuff I use is either on the vid or the description.
This will give you 6-12 months of protection (depending on the level you get the gelcoat and how good you are at keeping a boat clean and shiny)
Lee
I know this video is almost 3 years old. But i have a 23' center console fishing boat that's gelcoat is in bad shape(it's chalky). What would be the best steps for someone thats never done this before to try to get the boat back presentable, i know it probably won't be perfect. Or would i just be better off to pay someone to do it?
My best advice is in all honesty, watch lots more of my videos and see if this is even something you want to do.
As a detailer, I don't mind taking money for my work but with over 200+ videos on UA-cam, on how to do this without me, I'm a fan if you hire a good detailer at a fair price or spend a week doing it yourself.
Not touching your boat or being able to see it's reactions to different things, I can't tell you what to use/do really. Gelcoat isn't paint. If it were, I'd have a list you could follow and you would nail it 1st try. Boats are a$$holes sometimes and take investigation, trial and error to figure out what's going to work best, sometimes. I don't want you to waste time listening to an unqualified answer/suggestion from me when I'm not there.
Even watch some of my long/boring vids to see the length of time, how many products, why I use each and what tools are used and how.
Before 20 hrs of watching, you'll either have a better question I can answer or (fingers crossed) you'll have figured out what you need from watching me be boring AF in a few videos. Bring beer.
Good luck,
Lee
Wow, thanks for replying. I've watched a few more of your videos. And I've also contacted two people locally to get an estimate. As far as me doing it myself, do you think one of the polishers from Harbor Freight would work good enough for my needs? I'm willing to try it, and luckily for me, I've got 2 other boats that aren't any "good" per say, that I can practice on.
Buy 2 buffers from Harbor freight to compensate for when the 1st one (seen it a few times in my life, being used by new detailer, pushing them too hard) bursts into flames. Any name brand rotary buffer around $200 ought to be fine. If you have boats, a good buffer is an investment like any good tool.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood just wanted to follow up, I contacted a few local detailers and was quoted what I would consider an outrageous amount. Mainly because they wanted to wet sand. So I went ahead and got a buffer and some heavy and perfect it ex ac. I haven't done the entire boat because I've only been working on it in the afternoons. But so far, what I have done looks great. Night and day difference. I also got some meguiars flagship and went ahead and waxed it. It looks great! I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos to encourage people to try their hand at buffing a boat. It's not as bad as a lot of people make it out to be. Thank you!
F'n-A! That's cool, thanks. I'm honored that you found this stuff helpful. Please tell your social media/3M your thoughts too if you don't mind.
Welcome to saving hundreds/thousands a season. Now it's all about maintenance. Clean and "happy-up" the boat as often as you think of it with a good boat soap that won't strip wax and a spray detailer (no carnauba.. I know, it smells and looks great, that day)
Cheers!
Lee
Great video. Would you please describe your general approach to restoring and/or protecting graphics/decals as you’re polishing the gel coat. Thank you.
Thanks.
That's not an easy answer. There are lots of factors to consider when dealing with decals or emblems. Most times, I don't give them a 2nd thought. If they're very faded and not too detailed, you can usually use masking tape and tape off the rest of the boat leaving gelcoat uncovered but covering the sticker/decal/whatever. You'll clean that up later.
Dealing with the oxidation on decals can be messy, thus the tape. Some colors bleed into gelcoat. Once you've polished up the gelcoat and the decals, do a light pass over both to remove any tape lines and enjoy? That's healthy oxidation in decals.
I prefer nothing on a boat but generally, don't ever edge your buffer over them, even new decals are just vinyl. Stay flat and go slow as general rules. Most decals can handle a buffer and if not, there's Google to find replacement decals.
There's chapters to that answer.
If you could be more specific I can give you a more specific answer.
If you're familiar with a rug-burn or rope burn, then you can imagine how quickly friction can build up intense heat. Your buffer can do the same thing on a surface, or not if you are using it correctly.
Thanks for replying. I appreciate it.
I’m trying to determine the best approach to restoring the surface of vinyl decals that are weathered/oxidized. Do I attempt to polish them with a Dual Action polisher, teamed up with a super fine abrasive (e.g., 3500 or 3800), or do I tape them off and work around them? I’m transitioning from auto paint correction to marine work, so I need to understand what it is exactly that I’m attempting to polish. I don’t want to be paying to have damaged decals replaced because I had no business touching them in the first place. I’ve seen guys polish them with success, and it makes all the difference in the final outcome, but a general rule of thumb from an experienced marine detailer (that’s you) would be invaluable. And I’m aware that not all vinyl is created equal, or in good condition. Thanks very much for your advice.
I had an '89 boat that was trashed. The vinyl was cleaned up as I compounded the boat, no seperation of surfaces, one buffer-one boat mentality.
I've also encountered painted graphics that have faded. Sometimes you polish the paint at the buffing stage and sometimes you segregate it from the rest of the work.
If you're familiar with cars, boat vinyl is the same material used for cars. Whatever you would normally do... that.
If you use DA you can more safely polish vinyl but, sometimes you'll literally need to tape off the whole decal, Buff the boat, reverse mask the decal (expose it and hide the gelcoat) to then polish the decal. Once done, unmask and do a light pass with a buffer to blend any tape lines.
Faded decals can fade back out quickly. I suggested new ones as an option for 2 reasons: 1) they're available and fairly inexpensive considering the overall work involved in keeping a faded decal-set going. I know, my entire boat was wrapped in a single strip of faded vinyl. I'd compound the boat twice a year just because of that stripe. I replaced it and could go a year between buffing. Also, for someone who wants to restore them, you want them looking great yes? New ones look amazing and tend to stay that way for longer. Focus on the rest of the boat and not worry about the decals. 2)
Because some vinyl/decals can't be brought back. The paint is too thin, the cracking in the surface goes to the boat's surface... It can be aggravating and not fun if you're OCD like me.
1- Quarantine the decals and treat them like museum pieces.
2 - quarantine the gelcoat and treat the decals afterwards
3 - don't worry about them and just be careful not to be aggressive when on, over or near decals but don't fear going over them
4 - remove them all and enjoy a clean look or after the gelcoat looks amazing, apply new decals
General guide
Thanks for the detailed replies. I appreciate the time that you’ve taken answer my questions. You’ve given lots of food for thought. Like you, I’m always chasing perfection, but it sometimes comes at a price (as I’m sure you know). So I’ll just be really damn careful and follow your “quarantine” advice. Good analogy. You eluded to your one polish/buff policy I believe it was. I assume you’re referring to a “one-around-the-boat” policy. Would that be correct? And thanks again.
I’ve received advice from a couple of viewers. I apologize if I’ve gotten my replies a bit mixed up. I’ve referenced comments made by both of you. Thanks again everyone.
This identical boat is in my driveway getting done right now, and I hate to admit that after seeing this I'm gonna go redo the whole thing.
Sorry?🙃
I have super, heavy, and a mequires mirror glaze product, not sure of number right now but it's a finishing one, arrow goes about halfway up the bottle, had pretty good result, should I throw it away and get the ex ac. Finishing up with flagship.
Don't throw it away, use it on your cars and yes, Perfect-it ex ac is awesome and for gelcoat, as hard as is needed to go.
Great videos with fantastic results! I have an 18 year old Bryant boat with plenty of oxidation. The gelcoat is in good shape otherwise. How do you decide whether to start with Super Duty or Heavy Cut. I am a bit nervous about going too aggressive at first.
Start with Heavy-cut, it looks more scary than it is. Perfect-it ex ac can be just as aggressive. Either will work and finish nicely but to save you some time, start with heavy cut.
Thanks for the kind words.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks, Lee, for your quick response. Your feedback is greatly appreciated! Do you think I need to have the Super Duty on hand just in case the Heavy Cut doesn't take care of all of the oxidation? There is quite a bit of oxidation on the red gelcoat (almost white), especially on the rounded corners around the stern. Very similar to the situation on some of the Cobalts that you have shown in your videos.
Try the Heavy Cut 1st. Generally, I'll pull out the Super-Duty if that fails.
My pleasure. Hope this all helps.
Lee
A couple questions for you.
I'm guessing the snaps just simply unscrewed, or is there a backer behind the fiberglass?
How do you handle white non-skid on the top of a sailboat? It's oxidized to the point of leaving Chalky residue on swimtrunks. I saw your video where you ised a brush on a DA. What about a rotary with compound, then finishing, and topping with Woody wax?
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the community. Thank you.
Yes, the snaps usually just unscrew. When replacing them, use a small drop of 3M's marine adhesive 5200 to seal them back. Never over tighten them. Fiberglass cracks.
You can use a pressure washer and a scrub brush with an abrasive cleaner or compound. You can use a wheel brush and some compound as you suggested as well as the woody's wax.
Repainting is an option but you need to get the oxidation out before painting so..
There's a product called Poliprep by Poliglow (their polish is a horrible product, never use) Poliprep is supposed to "wash away oxidized gelcoat". It doesn't suck at it, takes a few passes perhaps. Then use a sealant after it's dry..?
Sorry if that doesn't help much. Thanks for watching and the question.
Lee
Hi. Great video! Question: Can the sequence be Heavy (P800), Super Duty (P1000), then EX-AC (P1200)?
Why would it be that?
Super, Heavy then Perfect-it. 😊
I know the numbers on the bottle are misleading, please trust me on this.
That polisher is just floating in your hands after moved to flat... almost no pressure.
Just lett'n her do what she wants to do. I'm only the support and guidance like with a horse.
Just imagine how good that beverage would taste if it were a Canadian brew?
I mean, Canada might be able to produce a decent IPA by now eh?
@@Local_Boydidgood I just had a nice one on the weekend!
Then that confirms it, game on!
Lee, when you’re using a heavy roughing compound on some heavy oxidation, what would you say your typical rpm is, and how about polishing?
Slow 600. I say, go slow. I know you see me rippin @ 3,600 sometimes, it's because Drake and Simon (on youtube) can't. I'm just showing off.
I'd say if you need to turn it up to stabilize a pad, 1,000 tops.
For anything using a buffer, slower is safer and speed hardly ever saves time when detailing.
There's a towing bracket on the back of the boat - how did you get in between the posts on that towing attachment? I don't see you remove it? Also would you always use double sided pads over single? I'm in the UK and have an oxidised Mastercraft that I'm going to have to attack. Great video of "how to" . Thanks
Hi Anthony. Here's a full Mastercraft vid, a real "how to" if you will and I don't hide much. The transom on these things is murder for a novice and a buffer but it can be done. Don't fear the nooks and crannies. You'll see what I mean in this video. Break that back area down into manageable sections and blend the sections together, it's what I do.
ua-cam.com/video/byVUPUjAat8/v-deo.html
(about the 24 minute mark)
That should answer your questions on the back area and how I deal with them (probably towards the end). This area isn't easy. I brought a drill attachment but it was too thick to be any help. That's all buffer, all of it.
I like double-sided pads 99.9% of the time. My foam pads are single-sided to keep sharp edges and to do detailed work. Single-sided pads fly off doing this kind of work and land in the drink, costing $ and time. Once or twice of that and I changed up the pad situation. I haven't looked back.
Let me know if I can help further.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you for the video - that is amazingly helpful.
My pleasure.
@@Local_Boydidgood Hi. So the restoration of my gel coat has commenced and I’m having an issue with the transom. It was heavily oxidised and in the main it’s come up ok, but I have a few patches that are still cloudy. Do I just keep cutting? I have a double sided wool pad, which I have to say is far superior to any foam pad I’ve ever used (so thanks for the advice) and I’m using a medium cut compound.
I assume a Heavy-cut compound but I can't tell you what will work from here.
Dull spots, yes, hit them again.
Hi Lee, I noticed you're using the same wool pad on the white gelcoat as you were using on the blue. I'm a newbie would you recommend using a different side of the pad for a beginner? Can the blue on the pad come off on the white?
Hi. Good question. It is possible that color can transfer sometimes on really bad oxidized colored gelciat next to a white section. It's rare but it can happen.
If it does, just mask of sections and compound them out. The color will come out with a little more compounding.
Generally, if I clean a dry pad, the color left behind is not ever going to transfer. If it was wet, possibly but still fairly rare and any transfer would either wash off or get pulled out with the waxing part.
Same pad, different sides but if concerned, use 2 pads, one for color and one for whites.
@@Local_Boydidgood Okay thanks!
You got this. Go slow, stay small. One section at a time, blend these sections together.
This might be a dumb question but is that wool pad basically a one time use thing when it picks up whatever color the gel coat is? specifically, if you were to use the same pad on a white section of the boat will it make it blue?
No, very rare for that to happen and not all that difficult to fix if it occurs. If your pad is wet with compound, colored by the last boat or the last colored section, you will wait till it dries out and you're going to Spur it "clean". You can still see color in the wheel but it won't generally transfer.
If this is happening, you use a compound, by hand and clean up the "stain" and then mask of the different colored pieces and deal with each one separately. It's rare, happens mostly in much older boats with painted decals or Pinstripe. Think Tollycrafts with that big blue band around the boat, there sometimes, it can happen.
Do the white 1st (all the steps including the wax), mask off it's edges and then do the color the same way and you can mitigate the bleeding of any color.
I can use a single pad for 3-6 months depending on its lifestyle (how many boats need Super-Duty, Heavy Cut or just Perfect-it ex ac)
Not a 1 time use at all unless it falls into the water and you can't grab it before it sinks. @ $36-45 a pop, they need to last.
Not a stupid question.
Lee
Question:What is it that you are looking for when you are buffing?..does the compound look different somehow or does the polisher feel different ?
I’m new at boat detailing but many years of paint work on cars.
Thank you
Forget everything you know about cars, step one. Polishing paint is like whispering a poem. Polishing bad gelcoat is like wrestling a bear sometimes and both take completely different approaches.
I look, listen and feel for all sorts of things. I teach these in my classes.
These videos I do here are mostly to get people out of the 20th and even 19th century when it comes to using the available products and tools now available.
I can sometimes polish a car. I can always polish a boat. Most car guys take 3-6 months to transition out of car paint thinking. Picture my knee atop my buffer spinning a wool pad at 2k rpm with a gritty rubbing compound on any car for half a second. Now picture it on gelcoat for like 5 seconds. Welcome to gelcoat. Marine paints are something else. Thicker, single stage epoxy, double stage epoxy... Skin-forming, sealing, breathable... Tougher than car paint, sometimes used on aircraft. Usually easier than gelcoat.
Yes, anyone not paying super close attention to what the product, tool and surface are doing while you're working is a hack. You need to be in tune with the buffing.
What do you do to the non-skid to get it to match the beautiful some of the rest of the boat?
I typically clean it and that's it.
If you need to,
ua-cam.com/video/kx0xZA8Cg6M/v-deo.html
Or
ua-cam.com/video/VcPB4kwy7w0/v-deo.html
Or
ua-cam.com/video/kIi3DG0ONgI/v-deo.html
Let"s say you are doing a multiple color boat, will the pad transfer the colors, should you use a different pad for each color or wash the pad between colors?
It can but usually not really. By the time you wax it, after a cleaning, it goes away. If it bleeds a ton, tape stuff off and attack each color separately.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you so much!
Any time brother!
What speed does Herbert jump too and from when he's doing that heavy cut step??
600-3000 rpm
Will the super dry change the color on a silver with metal flake that is severely oxidized.
Super Duty? No more than if you had an oily finger and wiped it on the gelcoat. It deepens the color but won't change it. You're safe. You can get the reddish tint out with either a good wash or the next compound to follow to get the swirls left behind by Super duty.
Thanks
Just to make sure I am clear you used super cut and then heavy cut then .,compound then wax
Only if your oxidation is the same as shown. Super-duty, heavy cut, perfect-it ex ac (clean & inspect) lock it in if you like what you're seeing. If you have light oxidation, try perfect-it 1st. In the right hands, it can work miracles and leaves a great finish you can trust when used right.
Start light in a spot, a test. Try something else if that wasn't good enough. Go with more grit (abrasive solids as opposed to the lighter yet very capable Meguiar's #91 or perfect-it, that use linked chains of molecules and chemicals to get the job done.
By the way, we recently saw this boat as it was being serviced. It's showing signs of the oxidation returning in areas. She was very neglected and had a thirst for attention, we gave it to her. I'm not at all mistifyed that the old girl is showing some age after 8 months. The next time we deal with that boat, we'll remove the Super-duty step as it won't be required. The next time we deal with it, perfect-it only.
This is the goal, getting the boat able to carry a shine for longer and longer each time so that in between waxing, just light routine maintenance is required to make it all work.
Sorry, long answer.
What do you think of the stark level r heavy cut is it a better cut then The 3m heavy cut or is it a bit simular whats your opinion about it?
I've never used Stark products so it isn't fair for me to get too crazy here. If you have a compound, made for gelcoated surfaces (porous) that has a reducing molecular basis for how it breaks down, my technique should be fine and should give you the results you want.
This might surprise you as to how aggressive the "cut" is on Heavy cut Vs. Perfect-it ex ac.
ua-cam.com/video/Hq36ZA4Psa8/v-deo.html
Car products aren't always great on boats and vice versa. There's reasons I use what I use and like I said, I haven't used Stark's stuff so I can't give you great opinions here as to which is best or not. I say it's how they're used.
If you do what I did to search UA-cam for answers, you'll see 2 boat vids comparing them, one in a garage that shows nothing after the kid is done and another is in the shade, no real comparison I've seen,
sorry.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks you for the 3m super duty they dont deliver it to holland do you have a other good product that is a ultra heavy xut or you think 3m heavy cut is enough?
I am sorry about 3M not being available in Holland. Lijkt me een stomme situatie.
If you use good pads and a good technique, you should see good results with any compound.
My best hopes.
@@Local_Boydidgood 3m is available but the rubbin compound not i use 3m hwavy cut and 3m finishing material on a excentric flex for the second step
Heavy Cut by 3M is pretty powerful. I can do most boats with it. Perfect-it or your "finishing material" after that should work well.
I would say that retitled something like this to "CAN WE SAVE IT?" Boat detail and restoration. Gotta increase those click bait titles to increase the average person to HAVE to watch it.
I hate HATE, feeling like a sellout to the masses but you're right, click ait works.
I'll stick with my MO for now but down the road, might step it up a notch or two.
Click bait is that fastest way to have unsubscribers. True content in the image is what the people want. You can have 100k random I dividuals who aren't taking in anything you teach and it overwhelms the comment section so you aren't able to keep up with replies. or you can have a solid 50k that truly appreciate your doings. I highly envy the guys that are doing videos with minimal ads, not much blabbing other than what you need. This channel is perfect.
Well, damn. Thanks.
Lee