Buffer speed with compound? Does it matter, really? It matters less than we think. Let me bore you.
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
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Phone: 1-866-279-1235 (general marine)
Phone: 1-877-666-2277 (waxes and compounding stuff) 🔆🔆
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructur...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/...
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee
“You’re gonna get bored, I’ll get bored; Suck It!” - LMAO 🤣
Always great info from you, Lee 😎
Sometimes, I just call it the way it is. Detailing ain't fun or exciting. It takes time and patience to do it right or to do a good job at the least.
Thanks!
I’ve commented before on another video but as I watch this, I can relate to the lesson in exactly the same way. I have been a welder and pipe fitter for 20plus years and you have the patience that has been acquired over years of success and failure along the way. You can ask 10 folks of your profession a question and will get 10 different ways to achieve the same result. But patience and repetition is the key. Spend a little extra time and get the best result the first try instead of rushing through and having to do it again. Cheers dude. I really appreciate all the knowledge that you are putting out here. Much love from North Carolina 🤙
Much luv back, thanks.
Lee
See, I knew I was going slow with the compound for a reason. I always thought it came out way better with no swirl marks. I've only been doing buffing and waxing with a buffer for less than 2 years. I've taught myself everything using UA-cam and researching. I switched my business from inside cleaning to boat's during the pandemic and so glad I did. See, I'm a chic and do a lot of work around a bunch of guys and because I do things way different than they do, they always come over and inspect my shit and not say a word and walk or drive away 🤣. I've done many other things other than buffing a boat that makes them do this. But that's a whole nother topic 🤣. Anyways, I think your boats come out great, and a matter of fact, better than any other videos of my favorite UA-camrs that I've been watching.
One more thing, you spoke about your special polish, which is for you and your students. I'm assuming you teach classes on this? I would love to know more about your classes and very interested in maybe taking them, depending on how expensive they are. I don't mind spending good money for great knowledge. I love to learn, because I know little compared to most who have been doing this for years like yourself. Besides, you seem like you work smarter, not harder, and that's my type of shit right there 🤣. Thanks for reading my long comment!
Hi Freedom.
Yes, you are supposed to go slow. I only go fast to show your "favorite" youtube boat detailing guys, that they're cuter but not as skilled, I'm showing off. If you stay below 1,200, you can do exactly what I do and don't risk hurting the boat, breaking stuff or swirling the gelcoat.
I also taught myself after reading bottles, watching and listening to other boat detailers do this. By "taught myself" I mean trial and error but also, the universe showed me what I was doing wrong one day and showed me a new path to take; don't fight the buffer, let it do its job, let the product do its job and just facilitate a meeting of the two with the boat. Things have been different ever since.
I do teach a class, the price is the same as it was in 2009 and basically covers the lack of my attention to the shop's needs as I play teacher and am not producing a finished Boat for 2-3 days (depending on how quickly the student grasps the core concept)
I only teach what you see in my videos. So, if you want, you can watch more of my videos if you prefer. There are over 200 of them if you go to my "boats and stuff" Playlist (seem like it takes about 10-20 hours of watching me do this for people on the tubes-of-you, before they "get it")
I'm in Chelan, WA if interested. My contact info is in my "about me" section of my youtube channel.
I'll add that detailers can be rather jealous and like to hate the competition so if you're out there doing this AND a female (rare in the boat buffing world) they're sure to be curious but saying "hi" won't happen until you start taking their business away. Haters be haters right?
I've taught 2 females how to do this.
Kelli of Nauti Boat Detailing (Swan Point, MD) 240 428-4886
&
Kelly
(Kailua-Kona, HI)
akeakeautodetailing@gmail.com
If you want a review of the class, I'm sure they would be happy to tell you about what/how I teach and their success stories.
Thanks for your kind words, let me know if I can help.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Hey Lee! Thanks for responding to my comment and for the info! Yeah I live in NC at the Coast so there is more business here than there are people to get the work done. I do a lot of work at one of the biggest boat yards on the East Coast. For the most part, all the guys are super nice and never bother me. I actually got my 15 year old a job this summer with one of the shop owners 🤣. He loves it. He has worked 2 days and said he has learned so much (in 2 days) which, is my goal for him. There are many women who work out there at the offices and canvas shop, I'm just normally the only woman out in the yard doing different things that normally guys do 🤣. I love being outside and work just as hard as the guys do (in my opinion 🤣).
I will definitely take some time and watch more of your videos and if I have any questions, I'll definitely reach out to you if that's okay? Much love and appreciation for you my friend!
Much luv back. I'm here, I try to always reply.
Thank you. I thought I had to buy three different Machines. I appreciate it.
Nope, one, 2 if you want to get better results but 1 works. Read the descriptions.
I'm detailer here in Louisiana. I do a lot of boats and enjoy them, I have all sort of polish and leveling fluids, 3M Super Duty included, just never used it but will try later this week on an oxidized bay boat.
Nice job man
Well, thanks. Super-Duty has a place, especially when you think "should I wetsand it?" Try Super-Duty 1st and see if it can't get through the ugly 1st.
I don't envy your humidity and I salute you for being able to even do this work in it, I'd flat die.
@@Local_Boydidgood
I will try it, hopefully I don't have to wet sand the boat.
It is very hot here, been at it since 1982
Damn! '82? I didn't start till' 05. Trooper!
@@Local_Boydidgood
Well, I'm on the boat, it's messed up, the inside will consume most of the labor but no sanding. I tried the 3M Super Duty but the Menzerna Heavy Duty is doing a little better so I'm going with that.
Always go with what works. Just be sure to wash the boat well and inspect it before waxing. Menzerna is greasy and hides stuff sometimes. Good luck! (I hate doing the interior gelcoat, such small spaces!)
Very nice result using the Super Duty.
This boat looked like it had some shine still, so I’m a little surprised you didn’t start with Heavy Cut? I think I’ve seen you tackle gelcoat that was in worse condition than this with just Heavy Cut in previous videos.
Would you recommend going with the Quick Disconnect wool pads or the screw-on wool pads?
Screw on if personal and quick connect if doing this all day.
This was just a demo mostly but Cobalt uses a hardener for their gelcoat so if there's stuff in the gelcoat, you have to dig deep to get to it and while heavy cut would produce a similar lasting result as this boat mostly held since last year, I wanted to see how much better I could get the gelcoat before trying to lock it in with a special polish.
Thanks for the reply. Are you recommending the screw-on pads over the quick disconnect for personal use because the pads are a little less expensive?
So I will need a 3M wool double sided compounding pad and a 3M polishing pad (for the Cobalt riveted snaps), it will I need a 3M wool polishing pad also?
I received my used ebay DWP849X today and it is cleaning up very nicely. But I am having a really hard time getting the hook-and-loop pad to unscrew off of the threaded spindle. I don’t think it has ever been off before and the old compound seems to have glued it in place. And 3M in their wisdom did not put any wrench flats on the hook-and-loop pad. Any tips?
WD40 and turn the wheel while pushing in the spindle lock button on top of the buffer (don't press while she's spinning under power) once she locks, torque that pad off, I had to do the same thing today..
I recommend the screwed on pads for the simplicity and one other reason I won't go into publicly. Easy is simple, simple is repeatable and available everywhere buffing supplies are available. (always use a spacer nut. Coarse thread 5/8")
Use whatever you want. This is all more than just the tools it's the feel and what works for you. If you're comfortable you're confident. If confident capable of doing something cool (or disastrous as we lean)
I have been in mourning for that Velcro backing pad. It did not survive the dismantling procedure, but it sure did not go gentle into that good night. Resistance is futile and it is in a bunch of little tiny pieces now.
The 3M website on buffing pads is a little confusing.
05703 screw-on, double-sided wool 9” for compounding
05704 Same as above except for polishing
33281 Same as above except for buffing
33280 Quick Disconnect version of 33281
05753 Quick Disconnect buffing and compounding
I think I want at least one pad from the first three pads listed? Also which foam pad to deal with the riveted Cobalt snaps?
Thanks again for all your help.
Sorry T, I just saw this (youtube app sucks)
One white (doesn't really matter which wool pad from them)
One yellow (also, they're all going to work)
A white foam pad with a 3D pattern on the face. You'll need another backing plate if you don't use double-sided pads like I enjoy to.
Just depends on if you're using the spindle nut or the quick-connect adaptor. I don't remember the numbers because as you've seen, they're confusing.
I list what I use in all the descriptions.
Lee
Is this super duty just basic or a special marine version? Wanting to order exactly what you’re using. Thanks in advance and enjoy your videos.
Nope, just old, reliable garbage from the day but it works.
This is my 2nd message. I buffed a boat that was 15 years old. When I was finished I was very unsatisfied. The paint had what looked like a haze left on it. It wasn’t that bad when I started and it did look somewhat better but nothing like I feel certain it was capable of looking like. I have been told to always use a wool pad which I didn’t do and looking back I feel like I was way to conservative with the buffing compound. I think I should have used a lot more. Could you please tell me what you think the problem was after what I have explained to you? Thank you and thanks for the video!! Sorry I also meant to let you know I used the latest 3M Super Duty Compound and finishing compound or compound/wax.
Practice, that's what was missing. This works, not because of the products or the tools but because I've been practicing since 2005.
@@Local_Boydidgood Understood and thank you very much!!.. 👍
Make sure you have even product coverage on the pad as well as the surface. Make sure to use a pad that does not shake your buffer too much when spinning. The other thing to try is (sounds stupid but works 70% of the time) hold the buffer differently. Adjust the pressure and rigidity of your hold on the buffer. Change hands. Pull the buffer off and spin it full speed. Flip the pad over. Clean the pad. Brace the hull of your boat, there might not be good enough rigidity in the fiberglass to resist a harmonic resonance that will literally shake a hull back and forth and bounce the buffer wheel off of it in the process, use a knee or shoulder.
There's a million things that can cause that hopping. I'm giving you the basics.
I teach a class if you ever want to learn how never to deal with that again.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you friend for the info. I have buffed before many years ago on cars. Freshly painted cars that were painted in Base Coat, Clear Coat. The buffer I used then was much stronger. It was air and what I use now is electric. If that air buffer ever started bouncing, it would burn through the clear coat instantly. So I am familiar with the bouncing. Do you teach your class online? I would be very interested. Thank You!!
My guess is, the problem is in the pad more than anything but you've obviously had hopping in car body's when there's a large area of unsupported sheet metal to be polished with a rotary and even a DA.
As to the class, it's in-person. 2-3 days (depending upon you're speed at picking up the info) In Chelan WA and is $500.
I can't imagine trying to learn this online.
With a large RV after using Super Duty what would be the next step?
Polish then a ceramic wax? If I do this on a 45ft fifth wheel I never want to redo this amount of buffing again.
How do I keep the shine afterwards and what’s the most bang for the buck with such a large surface area?
Next steps, watch a few more of my vids.
Not a ceramic. Never is a long time.
If you have clear/clean gelcoat, Restructure marine polish
www.restructuremarine.com/
Next step (assuming you've seen other vids of mine)
Next step is Heavy-cut then Perfect-it ex ac and then if you like the results, a clean/inspection and then a sealant/wax/polish.
Super-duty is rough. That I can sometimes make it shine like this is rare in the world and I can't always do it. Not sure if it's the boat or my pads or my attitude that affects the final result. Mostly, I use Super-duty as a liquid sand paper and like any grit used with paper we shouldn't be happy with just a sheen. We shouldn't even be happy with a swirled up gloss from Heavy Cut and while I can usually get great results most people would be proud of, it should be the step specifically to clean up WHAT Super-duty left behind. If you see swirls-holograms, grab some perfect it ex ac and hit that spot again. If you see a great finish after, cool, wash/inspect the boat and look for things you missed and address them again with whatever you think is needed to fix the spots showing signs of oxidation.
I did a black Cobalt hull today : started with Super-duty because I removed everything! Logos, hull registration "Kevlar blah blah blah.." everything.
Got it almost perfect but then after the wash it told me I was about halfway there. The rest of the day for one side of a 25' boat but I'm doing the extra work now to avoid it next year. There will still be work but easier work and for the profit won't be as easily consumed by time and product. If you can make today's compounding and waxing, tomorrow's cleaning and waxing, you've won.
Are you applying a lot of pressure? Thanks friend.
Not more than needed. Not much at all unless the boat isn't playing nice. Then I can get grumpy and aggressive.
@@Local_Boydidgood Lol concha. Thanks Buddy!! :))..
Anytime
I've taking what you're demonstrating and tried on my Gelcoat rv. I basically have the same equipment as you, the problem is my buffer will wobble and jump on me. What am I doing wrong
Not sure. Without being there.. Try a new pad? Being fair, my demonstration videos are not a class. I do however teach a class if you're ever interested. the cost is $500 and takes anywhere from two to three days. all I teach is how to compound nothing else, this isn't something that can be learned by watching a video. Not learned well at least, by most people.
Make sure you have even product coverage on the pad as well as the surface. Make sure to use a pad that does not shake your buffer too much when spinning. The other thing to try is (sounds stupid but works 70% of the time) hold the buffer differently. Adjust the pressure and rigidity of your hold on the buffer. Change hands. Pull the buffer off and spin it full speed. Flip the pad over. Clean the pad. Brace the hull of your boat, there might not be good enough rigidity in the fiberglass to resist a harmonic resonance that will literally shake a hull back and forth and bounce the buffer wheel off of it in the process, use a knee or shoulder.
There's a million things that can cause that hopping. I'm giving you the basics.
I teach a class if you ever want to learn how never to deal with that again.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks for all the suggestions, I think one of my biggest problems was being stingy with the compounds. It's definitely an art, I'll keep working on it!
If you apply too much pressure it will wobble on you. Just light to medium pressure will do it.
With a nice pad, you should be able to almost twist it 90° and not have hop. You would never want to do this unless you're really mad at the buffer or boat then it's totally OK. 😅
Hi, I'm a car detail but trade. I've recently been asked by a client if I could polish his boat. Now I only own Rupes bigfoot DA machines, I don't currently own a rotary. Would the bigfoot be enough to do the job? Or would you recommend I invest in a rotary?
Thanks in advance 🤙🤙
Any detailer worth anything has a rotary buffer in his (or her) Arsenal. I don't think that any of the boats that you see in my videos could be handled with a dual action. Without seeing the boat that you're talking about, I can't give you a 100% accurate answer. You can definitely try a very stiff foam pad with your machine and see if it makes a dent. My guess is that it will only add some color and a little bit of shine but nothing like you will see in my videos. Go online and buy the DeWalt DPW 849x and some wool pads by 3M Plus the spindle nut adapter.
Yup I thought as much. I barely used mine so gave it away, regretting it now..
Thanks again for fast reply, I appreciate mate
Any time. EBay, (people use these a few times and sell them often)
Followed your advice and purchased a cordless rotary and man what a difference that made in productivity... Thanks again for the help 🤙🤙🤙
I don't remember suggesting a cordless one but I hope it works for you. I usually offer the DeWalt DWP849X as an option.
All my best!
What polish and pad are you using for the final polish?
Soft foam pad (Shurehold) on a dual-action or random orbital to apply and remove Restructure marine polish.
@@Local_Boydidgood How is that polish compare to the 3M Perfect-It EX Ultrafine Machine Polish? and 3m Yellow polishing pad?
I guess we, you and I had the word "polish" mixed up. After Perfect-it ex ac, I don't use a polish like you would for a car. Once you reach a mirror-like reflection when clean and dry, you can 'polish" it with a "wax" sealant, polish..whatever. Different words mean different things in different industries.
So, now that I know what you mean by "polish", my answer is, I don't use it unless it's paint. In that case, a yellow "polishing" pad would be fine.
The 3m polishing pad wouldn't matter to me on a boat because A) it's too rough and B) for perfect results, a super soft foam pad on a DA or random orbital to both apply and remove the boat "wax' is needed.
- you can achieve perfect finishes with a rotary but it takes too much skill for the average detailer. With time it's possible -
@@Local_Boydidgood In my experience the polish step has always giving a longer lasting finish on gelcoat.
I've never seen a difference from Perfect-it to the # 3 or the polish. I think I get my longevity in my wax from washing the boat down after compounding.
If you are using a polish that you like, keep doing what works for you.