Porsche 911 997.2 Strut mount and bump stop replacement without spring compression tool
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- In this video I tackle the replacement of strut mount bearings without the use a strut compression tool. I also replace the bump stops. I don’t replace the struts but show how to do 99% of the work associated with strut removal. Enjoy.
Must be a Florida DIY mechanic…. flip flops and shorts. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
South Carolina at the beach. Safety first : ). Thanks for watching. Simple cars to work on.
Thanks for the tutorial. I’d still spent a few bucks on the compression tool though. Everything else is good info. 👌🏻
Thanks for the kind words. I agree it’s always a good idea to have the compression tool so as to not turn the strut assembly into a projectile.
Excellent video, thanks.
Hey thanks for the kind words. I just wanted to show how easy it is to work on these cars and that you don’t need a bunch of expensive tools to do so. Thanks again for watching.
Nicely done! I watched your vid to refresh my memory (I'd done this project on my 987 Boxster S some years back) on how to do this on my 997.1 Carrera. I have a different issue, but still believe it is related to the strut bearing and/or upper strut mount, so will be replacing those on both sides, front. Many thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad it was a refresher for you. I just wanted to show people that you don’t need a bunch of expensive tools to do basic work on these cars. All you need is a bit of mechanical acumen and some sweat. The strut mount replacement totally resolved the noise I was experiencing. Good luck with your car.
@@didifixthat7910 Hey there. Thanks again for the excellent vid. Quick question please. M problem is a sudden "stiff" feeling in steering. I see no issues with the power steering system, and instead, it seems to be related to the front suspension (thus my interest in your vid). I know that in your case it was noise occuring while turning the wheel, but did you experience any additional stiffness/drag in steering feel at slow speeds, like while parking? My suspicion is that it is my strut bearings, though it might also be the strut mounts (as your's was). My car only has 47k on the clock, so not sure if this kind of thing should be "dead" already. Anyway, thanks in advance for any comments sent my way.
Talos IV I really didn’t have any binding or tightness in the steering at all. Mine was just a groaning sound when turning the steering wheel. I would think the steering rack is giving you issues. Have you taken off the under body covers and looked to see if anything is leaking or looks amiss?
@@didifixthat7910 Hey there. Yes, I'd been under there last weekend and just don't see anything wrong with the rack. When there is no weight on the front wheels, the rack/wheel turn quite freely, which is why I thought something might be binding/dragging in the upper strut mount area. No sign of any issues in the engine bay either. Fluid level fine, etc.. I'm into again this morning and was about to take off one of the shocks in order to positively examine the upper mount and bearing. I did notice that the bottoms of the mounts looked "damp" from below in the wheel well, which seemed odd, as though oil had been release up there somehow. The one annoyance of course, is that once I've taken things apart, I'll probably have to go get a front end alignment. And of course I COULD just take it to a shop, but that is usually a bit of a last resort for me, unless it is something that seems truly serious.
@@talosiv4927 I agree that taking it to the shop is an admission of defeat. Fight the fight and persevere. The strut mount looking damp could be from the grease in the bearing working it’s way out over time. I guess it’s possible that the bearings could be “binding up” and causing the sensation your feeling but….. I would think that the chances are slim. That being said, the parts aren’t too expensive and you can totally do this yourself. As far as alignment, I haven’t had to do that. I really thought the car would “pull” after removing the strut but it doesn’t. It’s straight as an arrow. Don’t know if I got lucky or not, and I would have thought I needed to bet an alignment but, it truly is straight as an arrow. Keep me posted on how this turns out for you. Good luck, you totally got this.
Well done! I'm looking forward to your next 997 maintenance or upgrade video!
Thanks for the kind words. I usually put up videos when I have to solve/fix a problem with the car. Fortunately, knock on wood, it’s been a very reliable car and I haven’t had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
@@didifixthat7910 Yes, I love how reliable my 997 has been too. I need to refresh my transmission fluid and engine mounts soon, though.
I keep toying with the idea of changing my transmission fluid but…I have a pdk. I think I could pull off a simple fluid change but I don’t have a computer that will allow me to fill it properly. My car is coming up on 120k miles so it’s fluid and filter for the transmission. I may have to breakdown and pay for the service and it will kill me to do so but I don’t want to gernade a $20k transmission. Is yours a manual or pdk? If you have a pdk put up a video for all of us to learn from. Thanks again for watching and commenting.
@@didifixthat7910 Mine is manual. Didn't know the PDK required a computer to change fluid. That seems bonkers to me. How much is the computer to do that yourself?
The computer is call durametric or piwis, I think. I think the computer is around $800 or so. The manual should be easy to accomplish but before you drain the oil make sure you can remove the fill plug or you will be in trouble. These cars really are fairly simple to work on but some things do require some specialized computers to make the transmission open and close valves in order to properly bleed the system. The are great vehicles and I truly enjoy them.
Great job with minimal and basic tools!...
Don’t forget to add minimal skills. Ha ha. It’s not too bad of a job.
Love your videos as I have recently purchased my first 997.2. I am requesting that you do a video for replacing the PDK clutch oil and the PDK transmission fluid. Not sure if your 997.2 is in need of this anytime soon, but I hope it is and that you do a video on it for us. Thanks.
Thanks for the complement. Unfortunately I no longer have the car as an elderly man ran a red light, hit me, and the car was totaled. I was indeed due for the service and was contemplating performing it. The pdk transmission filter is built into the pan so it’s sold as a single piece and I think it was around $600 if memory serves me correctly. The issue with diy transmission service is the refilling and purging of the transmission. I think that you have to use a proprietary software system or durametic. I like to tackle this kind of stuff on my own but for this service I was going to turn in my guy card and take it to the dealership. It’s just too technical as far as properly bleeding the system and I didn’t want to screw it up and have to replace the transmission at a cost of $25k. Sorry I can’t help you out. Enjoy the car they are fairly simple to work on, exception of electronics and transmission, and fun to drive. Ended up getting a 2006 BMW M3.
Great video! subscribed.
Man… I admire your willingness and perseverance in doing this with just a few basic tools. I really do. Kudos!
Would a spring compression tool minimize a lot of the hassle? Correct me if I’m wrong but they are not that expensive, are they?
Either way… I enjoy your videos and they encourage me to brave projects on my own 997. Cheers!
I will say I did use a spring compressor on the other side but I still had to step down on the wheel hub to get the strut to drop down and put under the fender. I think the spring compressor would help on reassembly as you wouldn’t need to swing the strut in and out of the car in order to start the but that is on the top of the strut. It’s really not that difficult of a job. I typically post videos as problems surface on the car. To be honest with you, it a pretty reliable car and I haven’t had to do much work on it. I use it as a daily driver and so far so good. The spring compressor is about $30 at harbor freight but I would honestly say keep your money. Thanks again for the kind words and watching.
Hey, I have to replace the bump stops and I will replace the strut mount seeing it is out, am I right in assuming the car will need a wheel alignment. Thank you for a great presentation...Cheers.... Chris
I would say the technical answer is yes but…….I didn’t have an alignment performed after I completed the job. I really thought that I would have to but the car tracks straight as an arrow so I’m gonna pocket that money. Overall simple job to perform. You totally got it. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Did You install the dust cover and bump stop in wrong order?
Oh man don’t tell me that. I believe the bellows goes on first and then the bump stop on top of that. The original was disintegrated and I believe that I reassembled it in the correct order. Please set me straight if I’m wrong. Hopefully I’m right?
@@didifixthat7910 My bad. The bump stop at top, but it goes thru the dust cover connecting them
I hope I’m correct. I looked at the time on the video of 12:15 and can see how the factory one, or at least what’s left of it, was assembled. I think I put it back in correctly as can be seen at time 15:05 in the video. The bump stop has a rounded end, that’s the part that I put thru the dust cap as it has a ring on it that acts as a seal for the dust cap. I also looked at an explosion parts diagram and I think I have it on correctly. Please let me know what you think. Also thanks for the feedback.
#Girlboss
Ummm ok.