Tip for new techs from newish tech: get in habit of replacing cycling thermostat/ thermistor anytime you replace the thermal fuse or high limit. Typically these don’t just blow for no reason. I’ve had scenarios where the element either didn’t shut off or I’ve been called back because the thermal fuse blew again. And of course check airflow.
The thread one dont give continuity so it damage but how it give continuity when you measure it again did you connected with other limit switch what is the idea of them it have conected with each other so it have giving continuity with each other the two limit switch i dont get the idea of the trouble shooting
I found out the 2 inner terminals on your cycling stat are only used for low heat and should normally test open. I verified by checking a dryer with no issues and those inner terminals did not ohm out. Since all else ohmed out, I'm pulling the drum and ohming out the element. If that ohms out, I'm thinking timer.
They shouldn’t test open, they should read 9000 ohms or so for GE dryers. You’d have to set the ohmmeter to something 10K or above instead of using the auto-detect, and try it. Both of those inner fuses with inner terminals should read around 9K. I’m looking at the service manual with this information.
@@joelmorales3151 Thanks for reply. I found the issue was not anything I owned out, prior to pulling the drum and seeing the now famous purple wire burned at the spade clip in the rear right. I will adjust ohm settings in future as the things aren't cheap!
My dryer would not come on at all. I pulled the lid off and checked all three of those same switches. The switch that you determined had no continuity was the same with my GE dryer the middle post. I ordered the part and when it arrived I checked the new part and it did not have any continuity between the middle post. What's the chances of the new part being bad?
Aka, don't buy GE. Im on my 3rd repair for the same burnt out cable, i never saw GE repair people (not you) do a poor job, outside that, why cant that clamp be screwed in?
Tip for new techs from newish tech: get in habit of replacing cycling thermostat/ thermistor anytime you replace the thermal fuse or high limit. Typically these don’t just blow for no reason.
I’ve had scenarios where the element either didn’t shut off or I’ve been called back because the thermal fuse blew again. And of course check airflow.
I have the same problem at my property. Thanks for the video 👍🤘
The thread one dont give continuity so it damage but how it give continuity when you measure it again did you connected with other limit switch what is the idea of them it have conected with each other so it have giving continuity with each other the two limit switch i dont get the idea of the trouble shooting
That cycling switch is crazy expensive like $170. Can buy used working dryer for $150.
I have my whole dryer apart rn and how long will the limit switch work.
Thanks for the helpful video. Now, if we could just get you to turn your phone horizontally we would be able to see what's going on in your video.
I found out the 2 inner terminals on your cycling stat are only used for low heat and should normally test open. I verified by checking a dryer with no issues and those inner terminals did not ohm out. Since all else ohmed out, I'm pulling the drum and ohming out the element. If that ohms out, I'm thinking timer.
They shouldn’t test open, they should read 9000 ohms or so for GE dryers. You’d have to set the ohmmeter to something 10K or above instead of using the auto-detect, and try it. Both of those inner fuses with inner terminals should read around 9K. I’m looking at the service manual with this information.
@@joelmorales3151 Thanks for reply. I found the issue was not anything I owned out, prior to pulling the drum and seeing the now famous purple wire burned at the spade clip in the rear right. I will adjust ohm settings in future as the things aren't cheap!
Also thermostats are in series so your explanation?
Try making sure the motor is clear of lent and exhaust before changing the limits, because it will end up with the same issues later.
My dryer would not come on at all. I pulled the lid off and checked all three of those same switches. The switch that you determined had no continuity was the same with my GE dryer the middle post. I ordered the part and when it arrived I checked the new part and it did not have any continuity between the middle post. What's the chances of the new part being bad?
It happens a lot unfortunately, I second guess myself all the time before I realize I was given a defective part.
It won't have continuity in the middle ones. You have to test top and bottom ones
Gracias por la información y pon más atención parqué no te cortes
But what it's a brand new gas dryer? & it has that problem where it won't heat up
What is the name of the part that is bad?
We’ll explained. Where is the fuse in this thing? Thank you
Is the breaker off ?
It’s unplugged from the wall.
Just keep that small metal panel on, no need to remove it
NOT Easy to Work on is Correct !. It is a nightmare for a trained tech. Does not pay if you need two people to repair one dryer.
I have one and it heat for two minutes and then stop.
Always Wear cut proof gloves when working inside appliances. Your explanations are really bad.
Aka, don't buy GE. Im on my 3rd repair for the same burnt out cable, i never saw GE repair people (not you) do a poor job, outside that,
why cant that clamp be screwed in?