Dryer Not Drying? Cycling Thermostat Testing, Troubleshooting
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Dryer won’t heat, is too hot, won’t start/stop or not drying clothes? This video demonstrates how to test a cycling thermostat on an electric or gas dryer. The cycling thermostat is a commonly replaced part for a dryer that won't heat or is taking too long to dry.
Other commonly replaced parts for a dryer that won't heat are:
Gas solenoid valve
Dryer igniter
Heating element
Flame sensor
High limit thermostat
Cycling thermostat
Main control board
Timer
Click here to purchase a replacement dryer cycling thermostat:
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Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:
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How to disassemble your dryer:
• Whirlpool/Kenmore Drye...
For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Roper, Samsung and Whirlpool.
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Excellent presentation! And thanks for not assuming we know how to operate a multi-tester. I didn't. But now I do.
Thank you, Joe! Yes, our video team does a great job translating complicated information into concise videos. We're glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the comment, we appreciate it! When you say "low cycle regulator" are you talking about the heater on the cycling thermostat? They would be the small terminals on the regulating thermostat. If so, the two small terminals show an open circuit the thermostat is bad. That won't keep the dryer from heating though, the dryer would just not get the lower heat.
These are the best repair videos for appliances! Thanks You
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
I have watched a bunch of your videos on dryers and have learned a lot. I have a Kenmore dryer Model # 110.C67492600. I blew the thermal fuse on my machine. I changed it and put in a new rigid steel vent. I have now noticed that my timer will advance from the
"12:00" off point all the way around till it get there again, whether the door is opened or closed. The heater coil comes on as well (only during heated cycles), whether door is oped or closed. The dryer doesn't need to be started.
Wow, this was SO clear, even I could understand it! 🙂 This is by far the clearest, most concise explanation I've seen about what the inner and outer terminals are there for and how they work. Thank you!
Your videos are masterfully done and extremely helpful. They've saved me so much money by showing me how to repair parts of my washer and dryer without paying a technician a mountain of money. My dryer is currently not heating, and using all of the continuity tests I've narrowed it down to a non-functioning Cycling thermostat. Mine has three terminals and I am having trouble determining the replacement part number. It has many, many numbers printed all over it and googling each one leads to all sorts of weird results. Any help you can give would be appreciated.
+Eric Salmonsen Enter you dryer model number at www.repairclinic.com?TLSID=1773 to look up the cycling thermostat. The numbers on the part aren't always valid part numbers.
The outside terminals are the cycling terminals the inner ones are the heater terminals and the meter would need to be set to a higher ohm range to get a reading. If the heater was bad in the thermostat you would not get the lower temps but the dryer would still heat. The heater just warms up the thermostat more to make it cycle at a lower temp. The problem is most likely not the thermostat. Hope this helps!
If only one of these repair videos would have said that. I've been searching for 2 hours trying to figure out the function of the 4 terminals. I got good continuity between the wide spaced ones and a resistive continuity between the closer ones. But if those 2 circuits are separate. I may have some leakage between the 2 pairs. Can't find any schematic to make sense of it
If the temperature is being checked at the dryer outlet, a different thermostat may be tripping the heat off. If the venting is partially plugged or something is in the blower wheel restricting the air flow, heat will build up at the heat source and trip the high limit thermostat before the regulating thermostat . I would check the air flow. The bi metal thermostats do not go bad that often.
Still and excellent video 8 years later!
Thanks for the comment, we appreciate it. The reason we don't talk about removing the thermostat is because it shouldn't be hard. However, if the connections were crimped by the manufacture, it may be smart to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle the wires off. If this doesn't work, please refer to the repair help section of our website.
I figured this was how it worked, but want to make sure. Thanks for making the video.
Amana Dryer removal of little plastic cover to check the ignitor
I would recommend using the repair help section on our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there and pick the symptom you're experiencing you will see a list of possibly causes for your dryer stopping mid-cycle.
Thank you for this video. I could not find a schematic for my dryer and wasn't sure what the inner terminals where for. Now I know the cycling thermostat is okay.
We unfortunately can't offer repair help from our UA-cam channel. I would recommend heading to the repair help section of our website (link in the description). From there you'll have access to model, part, and symptom specific repair help. I hope this helps!
This video was VERY helpful. My cycling thermostat is ok. On to the next check, Thermal fuse.
Good luck!
So if this cycling thermostat passes the continuity test, do I have to try the hot plate method next before deciding if this is defective? Or is the hot plate method a secondary test?
yes would be my answer to your question.
I read reviews on the dryer heaters available and it sounds as if they fail pretty quickly in many cases. I was wondering I’d this was because no one seems to replace the cycling thermostat when they replace the heater. Doesn’t sing like that’s the issue, but thought I’d ask. It more likely seems that this part is cheaply made. Even the oem part failed relatively quickly in at least a few instances. Ours has lasted 8 years, and I’m getting the parts to replace all 3 parts. (Heater, limit and fuse)
Great video - simple and to the point
Great! Glad to help!
Oh man, this is helpful! Thanks for posting.
No problem! We're happy to help.
I have a 13 year old whirlpool dryer and it worked on one heat setting. Today I had to dry 3 times to get them dry. It’s hot when I open the door but clothes are just not dry. I had maybe 1/4 of a load in it
My thermostat tested OK across those terminals but had no continuity across the inner posts ( bad part) , need to test both pairs.
How to remove it? If the contact does not pull apart easily, do I just take the wires attached and pull very hard? Do I pry the edges apart with a screwdriver of sharp knife and try again to slide the contact off? Is there a tool designed for this purpose? This is a small thing which results in not being able to "remove or isolate" the part, which is step one.
My dryer has a cycling thermostat, a hi-limit thermostat and a hi limit fuse. I've had two heating elements burn out. Was wondering if the cycling thermostat fails to open will the heating element essentially operate at the much higher set-point of the hi-limit thermostat and eventually cause the heating element to fail.
My Maytag dryer MEDC400VW0 only dries on the low heat setting , not the high heat setting. It also seems to take longer than usual to dry. Does this sound like the cycling thermostat or the timer?
try unplugging the vent duct first.
What if there's no continuity in the middle ones, brownish ones? I can't figure out my dryer's problem and that's the only thing I've found so far with no continuity are the brown ones, but the outside silver ones do have continuity.
stephanie cherness I was looking for that answer too
it ended up being my coil for me. it tested okay for continuity but I guess they weren't working properly or were just too old. it's a common problem so maybe try replacing that?
It was my circut breaker, found out by testing the power terminals. The manual didn't allude to testing both 110v rails by placing a probe on each to get a total of 220v. Had to replace the breaker and all was good.
Every time I check any 220-240 VAC unit no matter what it is I Always check for 120V between L1 and Neutral, then between L2 and Neutral, then between L1 and L2 for my 220-240 VAC. This is a basic common standard test to make sure you have both L1 and L2 supplying and not just one of them. I've found circuit breakers with one of the two L's not working when switched on. Replace the breaker and that fixes that problem.
When replacing the thermostat, how do i know which terminal goes to which color wire? they're both the same size and i see no indication on it thermostat...
We have replacement videos for all different types of thermostats. They should be able to help you out!
Thank you very much
clear like crystal, thanks, i'm rookie in this, and checking u're videos result easy, i'm excited trying fix the appliances ;) wish me luke!
Good luck Alberto! Hope your repairs go great!
i did all the test all is working expect the heat
I did all the steps showing on your video: set up multimeter to the lowest OHM setting (x10) , cross ends to caliper to 0 but you said to check only the outer terminals (silver) which I did and showed continuity , checked the inner terminals (gold) and they did not have continuity. I read in another Forum that I should check BOTH TERMINALS ...for now I know that my dryer is not drying...should I replace the thermostat ? Or I should I check somewhere else?
FYI if you are feeling the dryer giving off a LOT of heat, before calling anyone, make sure the exhaust hose is still attached to the dryer... it may simply have slipped off and the heat you feel may just be the exhaust spewing directly into the laundry room...
my gas dryer will start out heating , about 5 min later heat will shut off. I have to let it set about 25 min then start it back up to get heat on again, over and over. Parts shop says my cycling thermostat has continuity but im wandering if they r just checking it when its in the right mod,(checking it cold),
Very helpful, thank you!
If the dryer thermal fuse that is located next to cycling thermostat is blown , "always replace both" as the thermal fuse should never blow if the Cycling Thermostat is working as it should. there is also a thermal fuse on the Heater itself along with a high limit thermostat. same issue if that thermal fuse fails "always replace both of them the fuse and "high limit" thermostat , "Always" perform a through inspection of the dryer vent system ensuring that dryers vent is not plugged up with lint , a restricted vent will make the dryer overheat as well as force cycle the thermostat so often it will wear its contacts out or cause them to weld closed ,, a blown thermal fuse on the dryer outlet (Where the cycling thermostat is located ) is almost always a sure sign you have a vent blockage "or" you have lint clogging up the blades of blower fan or ducts within the dryer restricting proper air flow , always check them before replacing as there is almost allways a reason why they failed ,, needless to say always unplug the dryer before doing any service on it. .
The dryer is a whirlpool duet electronic electric dryer
My heating element burned out, would that be caused by a bad thermostat? I ended up replacing everything in back…
Testing the solenoids is inconclusive. They have a very high resistance so you have to have the meter set up properly to get a resistance and just because the coils have continuity does not mean they are good. They often fail after a cycle or two of heat. If the igniter is glowing for 90 seconds without igniting a flame I would recommend replacing the valve solenoids. Keep in mind that if you order through us and the solenoids aren't the problem you can always return them and get your money back
I have a 140-20 cycling thermostat. It opens the circuit at 120 and closes at 100. Do I need to replace it? My timer does not advance in the auto mode.
Did you ever have too? I tried using a lighter and them measure the temperature after it opens and then close. I have an L155-25F but it opens at around 115 and then closes around 95. I have two that was doing that so I don't know if need to use a skillet or if the lighter will do.
Great videos! I had a no heat issue and tested everything I could. I found no reason for my no heat problem. So I replaced the cycling thermostat thinking maybe it was switching off prematurely. I got it to ignite and heat up but it shuts off and never gets hot again. I just bypassed the high limit thermostats one at a time and still it just glows but does not ignite. How do I test the valve solenoids?
Switch off when heated? So as soon as my dryer starts, the circuit is interrupted and my dryer should be running properly.
My center 2 posts don't show continuity. Is this normal? My outer 2 posts are showing continuity.
How can you tell if it's switched off? What will a digital display read?
What does the two violet colored wires do?
How can I compare this cycling thermostat quality from different shop? or is it the same?
Thanks for sharing ..
No problem!
Thanks for the post. The heat in my dryer comes and goes on my Amana electric dryer. After the dryer is completely off for a while, and we turn it back on, the heat element works again. I have disconnected the dryer vent from the wall and the issue continues to happen. I have tested the thermostats, high limit cut off and heating element with a multimeter and everything is reading fine. However when i test the cycling thermostat on the prongs that the purple wires attach to (i understand this is for delicate heat setting) I do not receive a reading on the multimeter (or ohlms reading). I do get a good reading on the prongs for the red wires that attach to the Cycling Thermostat. Could the Cycling Thermostat be my problem (due to no reading from purple wire connections) even though we never use the delicate setting? Thanks for your time.
Would a failed cycling thermostat cause my dryer to overheat?
I’ve replaced thermal fuse, upper and lower thermostat, and heating element. I’ve checked the breaker. Have checked the fuses, what would be the next step?
Did you ever figure it out? I'm having that issue as well.
@@rebeccaspratling2865 Solenoid
What about the purple wire terminals?
Great video!!! Thanks for making it so easy to understand!
My old dryer, Whirlpool Mod.# LEN1000 PQ0 is on it's 4th element, ck/ok and all thermostats ck/ok. Is there any hope for a cheap fix (no heat) ?
We recommend using the repair help section of our website. This can be found here: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help?TLSID=1621
My Maytag dryer is heating but after 2 or 3 drying it blows a fuse in the house and just started doing it. I replaced the thermostat and still does it I took the cycling thermostat out and seems to be fine. any suggestions.
Can WP 3387134 replace this WP 3387137 part? Please advise me, thank you
i tried this using digital tester and gets 0.04-0.8 reading.on high limit cycling thermal fuse.still good ir need new one.thanks
My thermostat has continuity. Is it supposed to rattle inside
So i just tested all the parts mentioned on this video. Still no heat...everything tested good. Continuity shows for all parts... What else could it be???
I have a Whirlpool LGN1000HQ0 gas dryer and I noticed the machine will turn on, but when it gets to the energy saving * setting it will turn off and not re-start at all settings. I have to wait till it cools and than it will start. It drys well, so problem with the heat, could it be the thermal fuse or the cycling thermo thermostat? I also noticed it has 4 prongs (cycling) and I tested them using a multimeter it beeps between the far away prongs, but not the close ones (purple wires), Thanks.
My dryer turns off the gas after a couple minutes it was first turned on, and the drum would just keeps on rolling, the gas stays off after that, unless you I cycle the dyer again (turn it off and turn it back on). All thermostat shows continuity though, What could be the problem?
I have a maytag neptune gas dryer model # MDG6700AWW, it stopped getting hot last night, it's getting gas, all of the sensors, switches, thermostats seem to be showing continuity and still i get nothing, am i missing something?
Great stuff :)
good video but you should warn people that the smaller thermostat is actually a one time use limit switch. if you test it with the hotplate method, you'll blow it and have to replace it. you can look up the part number to determine the type. found out the hard way. :(
Ken Reynolds Thank you for sharing.
I have checked all the thermostats and they all have continuity. What reading should the low cycle regulator have?
how many did you check?
my amana washer will agatiate but will not spin. I have checked and replaced the lid switch and you told me my motor coupler was good when I brought mine into your store. I am thinking the drive block mabey bad. It used to make a loud noise when the spin cycle ended. To remoce the nut you need a spanner wrench? Do I need one or can use something else? Thanks for your help.
I agree that the drive block is most likely stripped out. A spanner wrench will make it easier to get the nut off but you can use a small pipe wrench. You just have to be careful not to hit the side of the tub with the wrench or the hammer. If you still have trouble getting it off, you may need to get the spanner wrench.
What if Low setting is burning hot....Mine seems like it's getting too hot..I also have a venting issue too, it's been shuved in a hole in the floor behin it, & goes to the insulation inside by the a/c vent on other wall..?!!Thanks
The vent issue is the first thing to address... Have you cleaned the dryer very good? If so try running it for a few minutes without the vent hooked up. If the problem is gone then the vent is the problem.
I have an Amana dryer that is taking to long to dry clothes. Here is what I've found so far.
The heat coils heat up and ignite the flame.
BUT, if I have the exhaust vented outside, it shuts the flame down.
If I take the vent tube off of the wall where it goes outside, it still shuts down.
If I take the vent tube off of the dryer itself, it works fine.
The tubing is clean and clear and so is the vent to outside. I ran a long vac hose through it to be sure and I went outside and it's blowing strong air.
The flexible tubing is only about 3' long and the solid pipe in the wall to outside is about 2'.
What would be causing my dryer to shut the flame down with the flex tube attached to the back of the dryer, but not out the wall, and it works fine without the pipe attached to dryer at all? Is there a pressure switch that can sense that tube and going bad?
+Sean Hass We recommend getting rid of the flexible vent and installing ridge venting. There is no pressure switch when air flow is poor the flame does not get pulled through burner and trips the high limit thermostat.
Ok, So I have an odd issue, I have a Maytag DE106 Dryer (a beautiful classic from 1979!) as nice as she looks... The 220 cord got loose, melted and grounded on the chassis so I replaced the cord with an even thicker one I found new which looks very close to the original part, I also replaced the heating element with a 240v and it tested good, and both of the thermostats tested good, also the dryer turns on and the timer ticks down as it should....BUT....Still no heat!
(Edit) I stood by and watched as the timer clicked down to OFF and it shut off, and still no Heat. Could my 220 connection or the breaker be bad?
The first thing to check is for 220 volts at the terminal block on the dryer. You should have 220 volts from the red and black wires and 110 from the black to the white and red to the white wires on the terminal block. If you don’t, you may have a breaker problem.
I have my multimeter set to 200, and it is displaying 0.4 on one thermostat, and 0.5 on the other. Does that mean it's working, or that it's broke?
Depending on the meter, you may get a slight resistance reading. .4 and .5 would be a closed circuit. If the thermostats you are checking are supposed to be closed, then they are good.
Just checked mine, only went 1/4 way, never went full
My ESTATE electric dryer has the heating element "on" all the time. Everything checks fine! Continuity checks OK at all thermostats and fuses. Any ideas?
Chris
One part of the element is most likely touching the case and not shutting off. If you disconnect the wires going to the element and use an ohmmeter you can check to see if you have continuity to ground or to the case. If you can find where it is touching you can move it away from the case. If the element breaks or is damaged it will need to be replaced.
***** Thanks! I found a broken ceramic insulator allowing the heating element to touch the metal housing. This site is the best!
That's great! We;re glad you figured it out.
Sludge on brother!
Should there be continuity with the inner terminals? In room temperature?
The inner terminals go to a small heater inside the thermostat that has a high resistance. If you are using an analog meter you will need to use a higher ohm setting to read it correctly. If you don’t the needle will not move and you will think you have an open circuit. Hope this helps.
***** when I test the INNER SMALLER TERMINALS i get NO CONTINUITY with digital meter and an analog reading of 7.05 ohms, so does this mean the internal bias heater is okay. The larger outer terminals have continuity (0.00 ohms).
You must be testing a thermostat with a small bias heater in the center for the low temp setting. There will be continuity between those two terminals but the resistance is VERY high so the meter being used has to be capable of reading the high resistance. Thanks. RepairClinic.com
***** okay so a high resistance reading of 7k between those two terminals on small bias heater means its good.
Yes that is correct.
what does it mean if the continuity is 0.3? good or bad? I have a Samsung Dryer Model DV50F9A8EV that has no heat. Element shows continuity , the devices on the heater housing show either .3 or .4 ohms of resistance. what else can I check for no heat? there also is no error codes on dryer
+JIm Hribnak Anything that measures less than one ohm resistance can be considered to have continuity which for a element is good. The element will likely measure a higher resistance between 5-50 ohms if you adjusted the ohm range. Thermal fuses and thermostats should be checked for continuity also if you have no heat.
+RepairClinic.com well the high limit works and shuts off using the electric fry pan. is there anything else to check? everything checks out have not checked to see if I am getting 240 to the dryer yet
If all of the thermostats have continuity but my dryer is still not heating, what else could be wrong?
+jean The element, thermal fuse, or circuit breaker.
My thermostat says L210-30F isn't 210⁰F wayyy too much??
Ok Hopefully someone can help me.. I just bought a Multimeter and it's my first time ever using one. Well I was testing my dryer thermal Fuse at the lowest setting (200) And it had no continuity but once i upped it to about 200k 2000k It fluctuated to 0.00 So i'm not sure if I should replace the fuse or not?
First, always pull one of the two wires to isolate when checking a single component. Second, if you are getting weird readings I would replace the part.
When I test mine with tone it reads 002 at room temperature is it good or bad I see yours is 000 please help
Robert Estep Hi Robert, your thermostat is good. 002 is close enough to zero. If you are not getting heat, you'll need to test other components in the heat circuit.
***** How far from 000 would be too far from zero? My reading is constantly fluxuating wildly between 003 and 009.
Everything except where it's located.
When I shaked the cycling thermostat it was making noise , sound like something broken in there , is that bad?
I don't think that's means it's bad. Heat it up till it clicks and check if it still rattles.
d walker I heated it up and it clicked right away then I tested it but nothing , then I waited about 1 minute and it clicked again the I tested it was rattled, what do u think ? Thanks
@@KietNguyen-td7ze That sounds like it's working fine to me. The rattle that you hear is a little plunger in the switch. And when the switch is heated up and pops it is pushed against a spring loaded set of points in the switch and is held firm in place. And then it doesn't rattle. When it cools down again and pops. The spring pressure is released and it will rattle again.
@@dwalker399 thanks, that's what I thought too . I think my next step to move on is the timer
@@KietNguyen-td7ze If you can get to them after you remove the timer. There should be another contact switch in the main body of the timer heat control that might be corroded and not making contact. Be sure to check those. A board type fingernail file works great for cleaning up the contact points.
my washer is like only 3 years old. its model number is ntw4500xq this is to go with the below comment.
what do you mean about switching off you keep saying switching off but you're not explaining what do you mean about switching off? We're amateurs here.
I have an amana electric dryer. model number is ned4500vq0. It started stopping after about 10 mins running. It stops like this all the time. Only way for it to work like normal is to leave screen filter out. Then it works like it should. also I have checked high limit and thermal fuse for conn. and it checks out good. Anybody have an idea or something else to check. please let me know here or email at mwilt4822@sbcglobal.net thanks Mike
If removing the lint filter allows the dryer to stay running, we recommend that you inspect the filter to ensure it's not clogged or damaged. Dryer fabric softener sheets have been known to cause residue buildup on the filter, clogging some of the filter holes. If some or most of the holes are plugged, it may be enough to cause the motor to overheat and cut out. You can clean he filter with water and a bristle brush or replace it if necessary. Also, make sure the filter housing is clean. If of that all looks OK, check the dryer's venting; there may be a partial lint blockage in the venting. The symptoms you are describing are most likely the motor overheating and tripping out the motor thermostat, which will reset after it cools down and will allow the motor to start again until it trips out. If you have checked the venting and the lint screen for clogging and found no restriction, you may need to replace the motor to solve the problem. You may find our website's repair help to be helpful. Be sure to enter your dryer's model number: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp.
***** I have opened up the dryer by taking it all apart back and lint vent and vent to outside. nothing is there to speak of. I have also tore apart the front cover and removed the drum and checked and vacuumed clean all. what will it hurt if any to use the dryer for now mabey 2 loads a week to leave lint filter out? I live on a fixed income and at this time don't have the funds to repair this or have someone come in. The dryer is only about 4 yrs. old and I take care of it and all my things good. Please let me know thanks Mike
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