@@jsncrso "Amp meter, not ammeter. An ammeter is something that measures wind speed" Ammeter is the correct abbreviation of Ampere meter. An anemometer is something that measures wind speed. 🤦♂
@@jsncrso That's an anemometer. A Ammeter measures current. Ammeter is the recognised abbreviation of Ampere meter. I won't judge you for calling it an Amp meter, many people commonly do.
@ 3:27 - it does have the marking 51 (upside down) on the PCB next to the resistor, so 51R0 is correct. The transistor next to it (Q1) also looks overheated.
Good fix, but I wouldn't keep that in as a permanent fix - the fact the bigger one split tells me that it resists...a lot.. and the smaller one might die even quicker. Anyway.. hope you enjoyed your break.
Tanks Kaltern, I agree! I've ordered up some of the 1206 resistors, and I might do a little comparison between the 2. I'm curious to see if the smaller one gets any hotter!
Well if that resistor is dropping the whole 5 volts, that's 0.5W - most 0603s are 100-250mW and if the original burned out it probably wasn't big enough either.
I love that right after you said "I need to get better at this" you took a breath, took a moment, lowered the air flow and then made a beautiful looking connection. When things are going wonky, practicing the pause helps quite a bit! Great job Steve!
I don’t think I’ve ever commented on any of your vids, but I can confidently say I’ve watched every one of them. I’ve learned quite a bit watching these too, so much so that I did my first soldering job earlier this week, replacing an adapter port on an SNES (successfully too). So big thanks to you for your excellent content! Keep up the good work, man. 👍✌️
I get through a lot of 50ohm ish resistors as GHD hair straighteners use two in series as part of their capacitor dropper PSU (some older ones use 100ohm). These things are £150++ so people are delighted when you quickly fix them using a resistor the size of a grain of rice that's sub 25p. They use MELF resistors and take care when googling that.
Nice they put the values of the components they used on the silk screen. That big resistor is probably the current shunt resistor used for sensing the current, pretty decent design if you ask me.
Just to politely point out, that there was a white “51” written on the board, might be helpful in you’re next videos for component identification,I’m really looking to watching you next videos, keep up the great work
I love these little fixes of tools and things that you actually use, like the UV solder mask one as it may not be the deepest dive into something but it is the sort of fix I think a lot of us start on. Plus we get to see you solve something for yourself and save you the headache of having to order a new one, as you say not expensive but if you have the technology. You can make it better, than it was. Better, stronger, faster.
I agree with you, regarding on appreciating the "easier" fixes. The more common faults are most likely to be stumbled across anyways... LOL... The Six Million Dollar - USB power tester. (There I go showing my age again) Fred (edited due to my inability to type on a keyboard)
For future reference - manufacturer of this board put resistor and capacitor nominal at silkscreen.. 😉 I love, when they do that, especially, if component can't be measured anymore after fault. I recommend replacing this resistor with proper size one, because with size power dissipation changes.. Smaller one was as great quick repair to verify, that other parts is in working condition, especially, MCU. And I, behind the screen, screamed "51ohms" until someone heard me and figured it out..😂 Anyway, great video as always! 👍
Nice fix. #repairnotreplace "I don't know how the current is measured" For future reference, it's gonna be the very low resistance (50mOhm by the looks of it) large shunt resistor just below the area you were working on, visible at the 1:02 or so mark. It's a super low value resistor, and that is used by the brain of the board by measuring the voltage drop across it and using Ohm's law to calculate the current flowing through it.
Hi, the resistor you replaced is not for measuring the current. The big one with marking "R050" should be the measuremtn shunt. The HT30 is a "reset device" for the microcontroller in the device
A slight bit of soldering advice. Heat the solder up then bring the component in to the molten solder. Relying on the flux to hold it mostly works, but limiting the time under the air flow will reduce the chances of yeet-age.
Steve! I've gone for years without any electronic thingo breaking. You can't seem to last a single week. Just how ruff [sic] are you with these things? PS love watching you fix these things.
Steve, where do you get all the smd components from? You always seem to have the right component or something close on hand. The books seem to have a good mix.
Looks like mostly Asian parts from the famous big resellers. Ali express and the likes. Amazon is usually extremely expensive for what you get. Bad thing about electronics is that you pay next to nothing in bulk, but high prices if you only need a couple parts here and there. "smd resistor book" search will be pretty useful. These parts are mostly from China anyway, so it's not a cheaper version of anything. You're just cutting out the businesses in the middle of the chain.
HT30 ( HT7130S) is a 3v regulator for the microcontroller. The 51ohm resistor is connected between +5v on the usb and V in on the regulator. The resistor value is probably not critical and likely only used as part of a stable current limited supply for the micro.
Warning: NorthbridgeFix reference incoming... 1.) That looks better than factory! Well done Steve! 2.) Get some hot tweezers (soldering tweezers) for stuff like this. 😀
Hi Stez have you ever considered buying a Smart tweezer? That way you can easily figure out what that resistor value was even though you can see the numbers.
not much good in this case as it was blown, ok he was lucky enough to make it out, and as others have said it is also on the silk screen, but on the next repair if the top is blown off then it would be hard to work it out with tweezers or meter as it will probably show OC
@@TheRasalhaag the dt71 is pretty nice, but pricey. Those smart tweezers are great if you want to check many parts fast. Otherwise I personally prefer a good multimeter
i had the same tester years ago, killed it by plugging it into a usb charger that outputted 12v. i think its only rated for upto 9v but didnt know at the time, in fact i wasent even aware my phone charger was using 12v
Hi StezStix, I've been watching your videos for over a year now and thoroughly enjoying them. I got an Arduino set for xmas and have built a few projects, but I have run out of components. Is there a place in UK where I can get cheap supplies without waiting a month for delivery. TIA Johnny
Likely aliexpress or all of the other Chinese sellers. Maybe an UK reseller of similar products. But the Chinese mats are great, have one of them myself.
When i did prototype pcba modification holding the square chip down with the tweazers and using my soldering pen on one side at a time worked best for me. Using hot air just blows the part around. Hope this helps!
I wanted to avoid this happening to my USB Volt / Ammeter, so I replaced the resistor with a 25 Watt aluminium type. After struggling for a few hours trying to clip the case back together, I was forced to resort to a couple of elastic bands to hold the assembly in together. I think the warranty might be compromised now, though. 🤔
Iron tips less expensive that hot station heater core, use more the iron for those small components, faster and cleaner, and you dont risk burning plastic😂
Which channel is Kip? I watch this channel,Vince and a channel called Buy It Fix It the most. Buy it fix it guy is _really_ good! Knows his stuff. Stez drops a video and it's like a Xmas present! I get all giddy😂
0603 resistors have a 1/16W power rating, whilst the 1206 has a 1/4W power rating. You are going to blow it up fairly quickly. You should replace it as soon as possible, since it can potentially damage the PCB when it smokes out.
0603 - you need to tack solder that - with a fine point iron. Or, point your air directly over the 0603 while pinning it down with the tweezers, so even the slight air is pressing down rather than blowing it away! Another tip: use blutak on one side of the 0603 to pin in place while soldering the other, then "gently" peel the tak away and solder the other side. Maplins used to sell blutak and I always wondered why: This is the reason ;) I swear by it to join thin wire and hold down finicky bits to solder ;)
Stupid. Thing.
Thupid. Sting. Love your videos Steve! ❤
Smaller resistor is likely lower wattage. You might be fixing it again soon.... or maybe not.
I need more stupid things
@@jsncrso "Amp meter, not ammeter. An ammeter is something that measures wind speed"
Ammeter is the correct abbreviation of Ampere meter. An anemometer is something that measures wind speed. 🤦♂
@@jsncrso That's an anemometer. A Ammeter measures current. Ammeter is the recognised abbreviation of Ampere meter. I won't judge you for calling it an Amp meter, many people commonly do.
@ 3:27 - it does have the marking 51 (upside down) on the PCB next to the resistor, so 51R0 is correct. The transistor next to it (Q1) also looks overheated.
I am new to this channel, the music on this channel is from a paralel universe...
You are right, the one next to it just had some flux on it though, looks alright.
Good fix, but I wouldn't keep that in as a permanent fix - the fact the bigger one split tells me that it resists...a lot.. and the smaller one might die even quicker. Anyway.. hope you enjoyed your break.
Tanks Kaltern, I agree! I've ordered up some of the 1206 resistors, and I might do a little comparison between the 2. I'm curious to see if the smaller one gets any hotter!
Put 2x 1206 100ohm in paralel.
@@StezStixFixDoes your sheet tell you how many watts the tiny resistor can take? That's the relevant thing here
Well if that resistor is dropping the whole 5 volts, that's 0.5W - most 0603s are 100-250mW and if the original burned out it probably wasn't big enough either.
would the spec sheet help in determining the difference in package size?@@StezStixFix
I love that right after you said "I need to get better at this" you took a breath, took a moment, lowered the air flow and then made a beautiful looking connection. When things are going wonky, practicing the pause helps quite a bit! Great job Steve!
Honestly as soon as you post something. I watch it. You are among a very select few that get insta watched. Thank you!
I agree. It's also great to get a surprise short vid during the week.
Yeah, it's like ASMR for people who hate actually ASMR but just want something relaxing and informative, and amusing to watch.
Not me screaming at the TV as soon I saw that hole in the resistor 😂😂😂! I'm learning things from ya
I don’t think I’ve ever commented on any of your vids, but I can confidently say I’ve watched every one of them. I’ve learned quite a bit watching these too, so much so that I did my first soldering job earlier this week, replacing an adapter port on an SNES (successfully too). So big thanks to you for your excellent content! Keep up the good work, man. 👍✌️
I like the way you leave your mistakes in, it makes me feel better to know I'm not the only one who makes them!
I get through a lot of 50ohm ish resistors as GHD hair straighteners use two in series as part of their capacitor dropper PSU (some older ones use 100ohm). These things are £150++ so people are delighted when you quickly fix them using a resistor the size of a grain of rice that's sub 25p. They use MELF resistors and take care when googling that.
Awesome I’m glad you fixed it. But never forget you broke it first. You did.
Hell yeah, I didn't think we were going to get a video this week.
Nice they put the values of the components they used on the silk screen.
That big resistor is probably the current shunt resistor used for sensing the current, pretty decent design if you ask me.
Just to politely point out, that there was a white “51” written on the board, might be helpful in you’re next videos for component identification,I’m really looking to watching you next videos, keep up the great work
Thanks, only a hundred people pointed that out before you did.
I love these little fixes of tools and things that you actually use, like the UV solder mask one as it may not be the deepest dive into something but it is the sort of fix I think a lot of us start on. Plus we get to see you solve something for yourself and save you the headache of having to order a new one, as you say not expensive but if you have the technology. You can make it better, than it was. Better, stronger, faster.
I agree with you, regarding on appreciating the "easier" fixes. The more common faults are most likely to be stumbled across anyways... LOL... The Six Million Dollar - USB power tester. (There I go showing my age again) Fred (edited due to my inability to type on a keyboard)
Thanks for leaving the 51k mistake in, it makes me feel better. Great video!
For future reference - manufacturer of this board put resistor and capacitor nominal at silkscreen.. 😉 I love, when they do that, especially, if component can't be measured anymore after fault.
I recommend replacing this resistor with proper size one, because with size power dissipation changes.. Smaller one was as great quick repair to verify, that other parts is in working condition, especially, MCU.
And I, behind the screen, screamed "51ohms" until someone heard me and figured it out..😂
Anyway, great video as always! 👍
Nice fix. #repairnotreplace
"I don't know how the current is measured"
For future reference, it's gonna be the very low resistance (50mOhm by the looks of it) large shunt resistor just below the area you were working on, visible at the 1:02 or so mark. It's a super low value resistor, and that is used by the brain of the board by measuring the voltage drop across it and using Ohm's law to calculate the current flowing through it.
Hi, the resistor you replaced is not for measuring the current. The big one with marking "R050" should be the measuremtn shunt. The HT30 is a "reset device" for the microcontroller in the device
Who are you calling a measuremtn shunt? 🤣
Came to say the same. If the current shunt had burned, the downstream port wouldn't have had power.
I saw that resistor at 1:16 I taught maybe is some solder but it was looking strange and it's actually a big hole
Is that a 51 etched on the board 😂😂🤙
❤ all your vids
No, it's printed.
Might be an idea to change the transistor/voltage regulator next to the 51R0 resistor. The resistor blew for a reason.
Great video as always!
A slight bit of soldering advice. Heat the solder up then bring the component in to the molten solder. Relying on the flux to hold it mostly works, but limiting the time under the air flow will reduce the chances of yeet-age.
Steve! I've gone for years without any electronic thingo breaking. You can't seem to last a single week. Just how ruff [sic] are you with these things?
PS love watching you fix these things.
Good job. Thanks for the quickie, Steve.
I have one of those (several actually, but 1 of that exact make) --- if it ever fails I know what to look at
It seemed like this video was a minute long. Lol. Great fix.
Its always nice to have somewhat obvious failed components on the board :D
Where did you get book of different types of resistor and capacitors?
Waterohms
you should take a look into cross tweezers where you put pressure to open and where you could have a much more steady hand holding a part
Steve, where do you get all the smd components from? You always seem to have the right component or something close on hand. The books seem to have a good mix.
I asked the same question. He always seems to have a SOLID selection.
Just said it on another post. Aliexpress "smd resistor book" for example.
Keep the vids coming. I have subscribed to many channels and i enjoy yours the most
If the hot air keeps blowing parts away, angle the air so it blows straight down. Look for an air attachment that is bent on the end.
Genuinely enjoy your video's Stez! Where do you source your parts? And do you find Amazon at all helpful with them?
Looks like mostly Asian parts from the famous big resellers. Ali express and the likes. Amazon is usually extremely expensive for what you get. Bad thing about electronics is that you pay next to nothing in bulk, but high prices if you only need a couple parts here and there. "smd resistor book" search will be pretty useful. These parts are mostly from China anyway, so it's not a cheaper version of anything. You're just cutting out the businesses in the middle of the chain.
hmm.. i wonder if you could just fit a full size resistor.. seems more up to the task and more permanent
I killed mine a while back too! I might have to try fixing mine.
HT30 ( HT7130S) is a 3v regulator for the microcontroller. The 51ohm resistor is connected between +5v on the usb and V in on the regulator. The resistor value is probably not critical and likely only used as part of a stable current limited supply for the micro.
The component marking on the PCB may have helped tell you what the value was - Just saying. However, good video as I have one of those same units.
Nice fix
By the way the value of the components are all written on the board next to each one
Well done Bodge. Good fix. However... days since unnecessary "air" component removal = 0. Although really, these things are soooo tiny.
Warning: NorthbridgeFix reference incoming... 1.) That looks better than factory! Well done Steve! 2.) Get some hot tweezers (soldering tweezers) for stuff like this. 😀
1:19 That looks like a lovely mini explosion/crack on there
Love this channel. Brilliant.
Hey Steve, I was just wondering what solder mask do you use? The one I bought won't cure no matter what
good save! that thing is amazing!
@stezStixFix what are all these books of components you have? And where did you get them? :O!
Oooh that went in straight. Nice❤
I was hoping you would say "get in there!" when you fixed it, buit ill wait for that in your next video...
Why do you keep using hot air, that resistor could've been removed and replaced with an iron
Love your videos, what solder and flux do you use ?
Steve - you need ceramic tweezers for the hot air work!
Hi Stez have you ever considered buying a Smart tweezer? That way you can easily figure out what that resistor value was even though you can see the numbers.
which one would you recommend? is the miniware dt71 recommended or better avoided?
Never knew that was a thing...
not much good in this case as it was blown, ok he was lucky enough to make it out, and as others have said it is also on the silk screen, but on the next repair if the top is blown off then it would be hard to work it out with tweezers or meter as it will probably show OC
@@TheRasalhaag the dt71 is pretty nice, but pricey. Those smart tweezers are great if you want to check many parts fast. Otherwise I personally prefer a good multimeter
is it accurate? maybe it is calibrated with the resistor?
I see the board has silk screened the resistor values :)
It's printed; not silk screened.
Where did you get that book of electronic parts?
Where did you get your binder of resistors?
i had the same tester years ago, killed it by plugging it into a usb charger that outputted 12v. i think its only rated for upto 9v but didnt know at the time, in fact i wasent even aware my phone charger was using 12v
Mix the pads with fresh leaded solder before using hot air
A small but satisfying repair its nice to repair and keep great stuff working 😊
I love it when your tools go wrong because they turn into a “stupid thing” 😂
Hi StezStix, I've been watching your videos for over a year now and thoroughly enjoying them.
I got an Arduino set for xmas and have built a few projects, but I have run out of components.
Is there a place in UK where I can get cheap supplies without waiting a month for delivery.
TIA
Johnny
Hi new to your channel. Any chance you can tell me where you got the blue work bench tray from please. 😊
Likely aliexpress or all of the other Chinese sellers. Maybe an UK reseller of similar products. But the Chinese mats are great, have one of them myself.
"51" is written on the PCB silkscreen.
When i did prototype pcba modification holding the square chip down with the tweazers and using my soldering pen on one side at a time worked best for me. Using hot air just blows the part around. Hope this helps!
All good
There are component values written on pcb
was this a temporary fix until you get a bigger sized one? i assume this is 1/4w compared to a 1/8w one, however i am no whizz at SMD stuff.
What is the book of resistors you used and where did you get them?
@@nemesis2264 it's good to know the ones that these UA-camrs use.
5:40
Is that Munchkins in the background?
I feel for your loss, is there a collection or where do we send flowers?
I wanted to avoid this happening to my USB Volt / Ammeter, so I replaced the resistor with a 25 Watt aluminium type.
After struggling for a few hours trying to clip the case back together, I was forced to resort to a couple of elastic bands to hold the assembly in together.
I think the warranty might be compromised now, though. 🤔
you are the best 👍
Nice! 😊
Reduce air flow with a smaller nozel
Have you seen soldering iron tweezers…?
51Ohms... maybe that's why there a 51 written on the board... 😁🤣
Resistor blown away into the ninth dimension
Hoorah! 🔧
start the air gun from further away and slowly get closer to the component
Nice.
What kind of flux are you using?
That was surface mount, disguised as unused rivets😂👍
Transistor. Resistor. Red beans and rice did miss her.
Can't believe you didn't do a device opening rap for this
Bonus stez!
Iron tips less expensive that hot station heater core, use more the iron for those small components, faster and cleaner, and you dont risk burning plastic😂
It says "51" upside-side right under it.😆
If stez,vince or kip cannot fix it then its probably broken great video
Probably broken by Vince.
Which channel is Kip?
I watch this channel,Vince and a channel called Buy It Fix It the most.
Buy it fix it guy is _really_ good! Knows his stuff.
Stez drops a video and it's like a Xmas present! I get all giddy😂
To be fair, it does say 51 right there on the board.😊
The outro!!!!! 😂😂😂
0603 resistors have a 1/16W power rating, whilst the 1206 has a 1/4W power rating. You are going to blow it up fairly quickly. You should replace it as soon as possible, since it can potentially damage the PCB when it smokes out.
Depends if it's 0603 metric or 0603 imperial.
Why did the resistor blow, that’s the question.
Resistor is futile 😆 nice fix!
One thing less for the landfill. Skills.
3:56 Well there's your problem! 😆
The silk screen says 51 next to the resistor, I noticed.
0603 - you need to tack solder that - with a fine point iron.
Or, point your air directly over the 0603 while pinning it down with the tweezers, so even the slight air is pressing down rather than blowing it away!
Another tip: use blutak on one side of the 0603 to pin in place while soldering the other, then "gently" peel the tak away and solder the other side.
Maplins used to sell blutak and I always wondered why: This is the reason ;) I swear by it to join thin wire and hold down finicky bits to solder ;)
Nice
What does Steve do to his tools, half of his channel seems to be fixing his own stuff nowadays:)
I have a challange for you to fix. Reset a makita powertool battery
51R but what power rating?