For someone returning to minis after 35 years, I find these videos really clear and concise. If only I had them back then it would have saved no end of time trying to decipher the Haynes manual. Thanks
This video is just brilliant. Really clear, great tips. It's given more confidence that I can do this. Thanks massively for taking the time to make and share this.
Hi after watching you're video I decided to check my rear shoes someone put the shoes on wrong, Thanks to your video you have probably saved me from a bad accident, keep the good work up And thank you.
That is really helpful! I rebuilt my brakes but the brake efficency wasn’t enough to stop the car, I thought that the adjustment had to be set to the point where there was just a little bit of drag, but not as much as you show in the video. I though that too much drag would cause excessive wear or make the brakes too hot! I obiously was wrong! Thank you!
Your videos are the best! So straight forward and informative of what happens if you does things the wrong way. If thats not stressed out, its easy to overlook and for example turn the pads the wrong way. I wonder one thing though. If adjusting the brakes like that, with resistance prior to MOT. I guess the MOT inspection will complaint about brakes not losing. At least thats some common complaint here in Sweden. But I guess you tension them like that to wear them in fast so they get good even wide wear pattern, as opposed to just let them be to lose. When youve driven a couple of miles, they should let the wheels spin more freely right?
Hejsan! Thanks for the kind comment. If an inspector doesn't know that there should be a light drag on the rear wheels, then yes they might complain. What you could do is loosen them for the inspection to the point that they freewheel, and you will have a little more brake pedal travel as a result. Adjusting them to the point of having light drag makes sure that they begin clamping as soon as brake pressure is applied, and that you will have good brake pedal feel. And you're right, after a drive they will settle naturally and spin a bit more freely. Mini brakes actually need to be adjusted quite regularly if you are spending a lot of time standing on the brakes! :evilgrin:
I think the one thing I learned that wasn't in this video was how to mount the front slave cylinders (for drums), and I have a short video on my channel that shows that. But most of this video was refreshing to see, I like the atmosphere/lighting you have!
Oh wow I didn't make mine tight enough for sure. The brakes still feel very firm on the pedal but probably still feels good with the disc brakes up font
Great video, really informative. I've got my parts on order but thanks to the video I realise the brake shoes and the springs must go a certain way. Saved me making the mistake, nice to know what I'm now looking for.
thanks so much for this video! Was just about to go service my drum brakes when i came across this channel from Classic Mini DIY's suggestion. Keep up the good work!
this channel is quality. would you please do a quick vid on e break adjustment as well and a video on 12 to 10 brake conversions, and what kit is best to use because ive heard bad thinks about the cheaper options
These are great videos. I wish you had shown the wheel cylinder replacement. That is a pretty tricky project on it's own. Also, it looks like the previous mechanic had the lower spring on upside down. There appears to be a little wear in the center.
Thank you so much this is very clear...YOU SAVE ME ! I have a drum brake at the front wich is too loose (the drum turns too much free) and the car turn on the left when I brake too much !
Just the Video I needed! May need to adjust my rear as after 6 bleeds I still have a little pedal travel and handbrake doesnt work so well. Wheels definitely spin too freely 😂
Just readjusted mine and damn the pedal is firm now! I am getting a vibration from the back when I push hard on the brakes, is that due to the rears not being bedded in yet or are my new chinesium drums from Mini Sport a bit warped (they didnt seem to rotate perfectly centric when I spun them on the hub)?
A good video, however you should always use the correct tool, a square holed ring spanner for adjusting the brakes and not a normal opened spanner. If they're tight it will round them off.
Great info! I ran into a particular issue though: Once I reinstalled my rear drum, the wheel hub is very difficult to rotate and it does not free spin even with the adjuster all the way backed out. Any ideas what could be the cause?
Thanks for making the video. Amazing stuff. Just wanna know. If u tighten the wheel will the tires ware off fast due to da drag from the back wheels. I'm just wondering. I could be Wong on this
Glad it helped you out! Make sure everything is properly lubricated and nothing is binding. If your drums are warped and out of round that can also cause uneven wear. The mini has so little weight in the back, the rear brakes should last a very long time. Cheers!
Does it apply to other drum brakes too? I didn't know they were supposed to be that tight until I watched your video. I adjusted them too loose so the car was rolling backwards on a slope.
Hi, I hope you can help me. Back in the early 1980's I owned a 1967 Mini Panel van. When I purchased it it had 4 wheel disk Brakes, and was heavily modified by the previous owner. I know the front brakes were probably from a later model John cooper Works model but do you have any Idea where the rears would have come from. I have searched the internet for Classic Mini rear brakes and All I could find was was a KAD conversion kit I am making plans to do a Honda B16 engine swap, But I Don't want to spend 1700 dollars just for rear disks. Was there a later model mini that came with Rear Disks. I know the mini came from England. But why can't I find anything on the Net?
KAD is the only manufacturer of a bolt on rear disc kit. If your van has rear discs and they're not KAD, then someone has built up a custom kit. Nice upgrade, either way!
Hi, thanks for reply. I spoke to the original owner over the weekend. He is a master machinist. He said he used front brakes from a 1984 model, and custom machined every thing to make it work and that he used 12 wheels to fit the larger brakes. I no longer own the car. Sigh. I sold it when I got married. I was hoping that it was a simple thing to do, but I no longer own my lathe or my milling machine. So That won't be happening. He also said he converted the emergency brake to use a proportioning valve and separate reservoir from a different car to hydraulically activate the rear brakes only. I wish I still had the car so I could send you pictures. What do you think about the modern Mini's? I was looking at a 2011 Clubman JCW. I Know yo can build a Honda style sidewinder turbo exhaust manifold and with the right turbo get between 300-500 horsepower there are people on the Internet who have done so and I have looked into their set ups. I would be more than happy with 350 horsepower the problem is passing emissions here in BC. Do you think it could be done? The reason I am looking into a modern Mini is for safety, airbags etc. I know where I can get another classic Min ClubMan but if I have to pay a crap ton of money to put in a B18 (subframe kit, rear disks possibly adding a rear subframe to to make it all wheel drive etc) I might just be better off buying a modern one and modding that instead. It is not the same as an original Mini, does not handle the same. Anyway, thanks for your help.
I understand that it doesn't brake good if it is to loose, but doesn't it create drag when driving when they don't run free? Is it possible to convert all breaks into disc breaks and have less friction?
It creates drag, costs you power/ efficiency, and as I once found out, can give you fade on all for corners which you only find out about when needing to slow down from 70... That was the day I found out just how well a Mini can corner.
Interesting - same dumb adjusters as on my Saab 96. I'm guessing Lockheed made these brakes. edit: got to add - don't forget to adjust the parking brake! If you only use the adjuster on the back plate, you're only doing half the job.
Very similar, the level of drag on the drums is the same however there are two adjusters per side (one for each shoe). Do one at a time until you reach the desired tightness and make sure they are even side to side. We will most likely be doing a video on front brake adjustment soon.
good thing i read the comments to find the technique for the other half of the job, the most important front drums which are considerably different . Thanks for the follow up so I subscribed :)
A Very good Video ..However the correct way to adjust them is...When the trailing arm is back on the car, fit the road wheel, the car is still jacked up at this stage... turn the adjuster in a clock-wise direction until the hub is locked and you cannot turn the road wheel with your hands, Then slacken the adjuster 1 turn at a time and try to rotate the road wheel. When the road wheel rotates without rubbing it is correct... Repeat same on other road wheel.... if you have rubbing the brakes could/ will overheat and could cause brake fade...
great vid, although no cylinder replacement? is this because of how ridiculous that stupid snap ring retainer is? worst design ever for cylinder mounting urghh
For someone returning to minis after 35 years, I find these videos really clear and concise. If only I had them back then it would have saved no end of time trying to decipher the Haynes manual. Thanks
Once again learned something new! Need to inspect my rear drums now...
Love the breakdowns, tons of info and a really good digestible tutorial, answers all my questions. Can’t wait for more videos
Amazing classic mini DIY content! Please Please continue to produce these as there is a surefire need!
So well explained, you completely remove the margin for error. Best videos around for the classic Mini.
This video is just brilliant. Really clear, great tips. It's given more confidence that I can do this. Thanks massively for taking the time to make and share this.
Hi after watching you're video I decided to check my rear shoes someone put the shoes on wrong,
Thanks to your video you have probably saved me from a bad accident, keep the good work up
And thank you.
Which side? They are opposite to that shown on the RHS. ie Video shows LHS, RHS shoes are installed the opposite way around.
My Mini actually brakes now. Thanks guys! I'll definitely watch more of your videos. :)
That is really helpful! I rebuilt my brakes but the brake efficency wasn’t enough to stop the car, I thought that the adjustment had to be set to the point where there was just a little bit of drag, but not as much as you show in the video. I though that too much drag would cause excessive wear or make the brakes too hot! I obiously was wrong! Thank you!
Used this as a guide to do my front single leading shoes! Great video!
Great Video. Given me the confidence to replace and adjust my mini's rear shoes.
These are fantastic videos - great work!
Your videos are the best! So straight forward and informative of what happens if you does things the wrong way. If thats not stressed out, its easy to overlook and for example turn the pads the wrong way.
I wonder one thing though. If adjusting the brakes like that, with resistance prior to MOT. I guess the MOT inspection will complaint about brakes not losing. At least thats some common complaint here in Sweden. But I guess you tension them like that to wear them in fast so they get good even wide wear pattern, as opposed to just let them be to lose. When youve driven a couple of miles, they should let the wheels spin more freely right?
Hejsan! Thanks for the kind comment.
If an inspector doesn't know that there should be a light drag on the rear wheels, then yes they might complain. What you could do is loosen them for the inspection to the point that they freewheel, and you will have a little more brake pedal travel as a result. Adjusting them to the point of having light drag makes sure that they begin clamping as soon as brake pressure is applied, and that you will have good brake pedal feel. And you're right, after a drive they will settle naturally and spin a bit more freely. Mini brakes actually need to be adjusted quite regularly if you are spending a lot of time standing on the brakes! :evilgrin:
These videos are fantastic. Really helpful and good production quality.
Chew thanks!!
Very good video. One thing I would mention is when servicing to add some rubber grease in the wheel cyclinders behind the rubber boots.
I think the one thing I learned that wasn't in this video was how to mount the front slave cylinders (for drums), and I have a short video on my channel that shows that.
But most of this video was refreshing to see, I like the atmosphere/lighting you have!
Seems like a super easy drum setup and really easy to adjust.. loving these videos.. :)
Oh wow I didn't make mine tight enough for sure. The brakes still feel very firm on the pedal but probably still feels good with the disc brakes up font
Thank you for your video !!! 💪🏽 very good explications
Great video, really informative. I've got my parts on order but thanks to the video I realise the brake shoes and the springs must go a certain way. Saved me making the mistake, nice to know what I'm now looking for.
thanks so much for this video! Was just about to go service my drum brakes when i came across this channel from Classic Mini DIY's suggestion. Keep up the good work!
loving these videos. will keep em safe for when I get my mini....
I am looking to do mine, so this video was a great help .
This is so helpful, as I said in an earlier video.... please more often and frequently 😉
Great info, will help me get my siezed rear brakes taken care of!
Great deep dive on this subject!
Great very professional video well done.
Great teaching video as always.
really well explained thanks guys!
this channel is quality. would you please do a quick vid on e break adjustment as well and a video on 12 to 10 brake conversions, and what kit is best to use because ive heard bad thinks about the cheaper options
These are great videos. I wish you had shown the wheel cylinder replacement. That is a pretty tricky project on it's own. Also, it looks like the previous mechanic had the lower spring on upside down. There appears to be a little wear in the center.
Lol hi Dean!
Great video! Do you have a video on how to take the entire hub and drum assembly apart to replace it? Thanks!
That is the best video I could really understand so when I did do it on my car it was so good thanks.
I love your videos.Iove from SriLanka
Glad you like them!
Excellent videos 👍🏻
thank you!
@@Stevestonmotorco You're welcome !
good video, i would have hoped to see how to do the adjustment so that shoes go all the way in.
Excelent information that was well presented, many thanks.
You're very welcome David. Hope to share lots more.
Thanks. great attention to details , very helpful.
Thank you so much this is very clear...YOU SAVE ME ! I have a drum brake at the front wich is too loose (the drum turns too much free) and the car turn on the left when I brake too much !
Jean-philippe Vincent awesome! It would be a good idea to check inside the covers as well.
Thanks very well explained
These videos are so great! Keep it up dude :D
Thanks for this. I had no idea. I’m doing mine soon.
Thank you for the demonstration. I don’t feel so worried about tackling my own rear brakes.
That's awesome! Taking time to learn about how they work plus a few simple tools can go a long way.
I managed to strip and replace the rear brakes with your demonstration so thank you once again.
Can you please show us how to do the front brakes, because it is different as well. Thanks!
Just the Video I needed!
May need to adjust my rear as after 6 bleeds I still have a little pedal travel and handbrake doesnt work so well. Wheels definitely spin too freely 😂
Sounds like a good adjustment should solve your ebrake issues :)
Hi Steve, lol your video explanation of a break service, didnt see the position of ebreak bracket being fitted..
Good videos and better explanations. Do you have a comparable video for front brake assembly and adjustment?
We don't as of right now. It's the same thing but with two adjusters.
Great video, would love to see disc and pad change too! I guess you don’t need to drain brake fluid to change shoes or pads?
This guys work is neat 👌
This is useful stuff! Absolutely HATING the clip on the back of the brake cylinder though, what a stupid design. Anyway, thanks for the video.
Thank you for the great videos, and not saying "Orientated"!
Nice video, but don't quite understand the concept here. When you adjust brake like this, won't the shoes rub the drum when the car running?
Just readjusted mine and damn the pedal is firm now! I am getting a vibration from the back when I push hard on the brakes, is that due to the rears not being bedded in yet or are my new chinesium drums from Mini Sport a bit warped (they didnt seem to rotate perfectly centric when I spun them on the hub)?
Thanks
A good video, however you should always use the correct tool, a square holed ring spanner for adjusting the brakes and not a normal opened spanner. If they're tight it will round them off.
Hi!
What would the basic setup for handbrake be, once you've done this?
Thanks!
life saver
Hi/ when adjusting, does the resistance cause power loss? Seems odd to have the brakes binding a bit 😊
Great info! I ran into a particular issue though: Once I reinstalled my rear drum, the wheel hub is very difficult to rotate and it does not free spin even with the adjuster all the way backed out. Any ideas what could be the cause?
Rotate the drum and tap between the wheel studs with a hammer that helps out a lot of times
Thanks for making the video. Amazing stuff. Just wanna know. If u tighten the wheel will the tires ware off fast due to da drag from the back wheels. I'm just wondering. I could be Wong on this
suranga fernando Hey, thx for the comment. No, it won't increase wear on the rear tires. The amount of drag is very minimal.
Stevestonmotorco thanks much appreciated. Love ur channel. Keep up the good work. I'll make sure to fix the breaks of mine
How do I sort out un-even wear on the brake pads, this video made me have some fun changing all my brakes but came across this problem
Glad it helped you out! Make sure everything is properly lubricated and nothing is binding. If your drums are warped and out of round that can also cause uneven wear. The mini has so little weight in the back, the rear brakes should last a very long time. Cheers!
I never knew they were supposed to be that tight! Would this not cause excessive wear to the shoes?
Surprisingly, no. The amount of pressure needed to make it feel that tight is not very much.
Does it apply to other drum brakes too? I didn't know they were supposed to be that tight until I watched your video. I adjusted them too loose so the car was rolling backwards on a slope.
Hello, just come across your video n tbh I think you did a brill video! but quick question whats a e brake(emergency brake)?
E-brake = Handbrake= parking brake (depending on where you live)
Hi, I hope you can help me. Back in the early 1980's I owned a 1967 Mini Panel van. When I purchased it it had 4 wheel disk Brakes, and was heavily modified by the previous owner. I know the front brakes were probably from a later model John cooper Works model but do you have any Idea where the rears would have come from. I have searched the internet for Classic Mini rear brakes and All I could find was was a KAD conversion kit I am making plans to do a Honda B16 engine swap, But I Don't want to spend 1700 dollars just for rear disks. Was there a later model mini that came with Rear Disks. I know the mini came from England. But why can't I find anything on the Net?
KAD is the only manufacturer of a bolt on rear disc kit. If your van has rear discs and they're not KAD, then someone has built up a custom kit. Nice upgrade, either way!
Hi, thanks for reply. I spoke to the original owner over the weekend. He is a master machinist. He said he used front brakes from a 1984 model, and custom machined every thing to make it work and that he used 12 wheels to fit the larger brakes. I no longer own the car. Sigh. I sold it when I got married. I was hoping that it was a simple thing to do, but I no longer own my lathe or my milling machine. So That won't be happening. He also said he converted the emergency brake to use a proportioning valve and separate reservoir from a different car to hydraulically activate the rear brakes only. I wish I still had the car so I could send you pictures. What do you think about the modern Mini's? I was looking at a 2011 Clubman JCW. I Know yo can build a Honda style sidewinder turbo exhaust manifold and with the right turbo get between 300-500 horsepower there are people on the Internet who have done so and I have looked into their set ups. I would be more than happy with 350 horsepower the problem is passing emissions here in BC. Do you think it could be done? The reason I am looking into a modern Mini is for safety, airbags etc. I know where I can get another classic Min ClubMan but if I have to pay a crap ton of money to put in a B18 (subframe kit, rear disks possibly adding a rear subframe to to make it all wheel drive etc) I might just be better off buying a modern one and modding that instead. It is not the same as an original Mini, does not handle the same. Anyway, thanks for your help.
great video :D
I understand that it doesn't brake good if it is to loose, but doesn't it create drag when driving when they don't run free?
Is it possible to convert all breaks into disc breaks and have less friction?
It creates drag, costs you power/ efficiency, and as I once found out, can give you fade on all for corners which you only find out about when needing to slow down from 70...
That was the day I found out just how well a Mini can corner.
Interesting - same dumb adjusters as on my Saab 96. I'm guessing Lockheed made these brakes.
edit: got to add - don't forget to adjust the parking brake! If you only use the adjuster on the back plate, you're only doing half the job.
95% of the pedal feel of a mini comes from proper drum adjusting and proper bleeding, in that order.
Is the adgustment the same for minis with frount dums too?
Very similar, the level of drag on the drums is the same however there are two adjusters per side (one for each shoe). Do one at a time until you reach the desired tightness and make sure they are even side to side. We will most likely be doing a video on front brake adjustment soon.
Stevestonmotorco Cheers 👍
good thing i read the comments to find the technique for the other half of the job, the most important front drums which are considerably different . Thanks for the follow up so I subscribed :)
If I had everything this organized, I wouldn't need five of each tool so that I have a high probability of finding at least one when I need it :S
A Very good Video ..However the correct way to adjust them is...When the trailing arm is back on the car, fit the road wheel, the car is still jacked up at this stage... turn the adjuster in a clock-wise direction until the hub is locked and you cannot turn the road wheel with your hands, Then slacken the adjuster 1 turn at a time and try to rotate the road wheel. When the road wheel rotates without rubbing it is correct... Repeat same on other road wheel.... if you have rubbing the brakes could/ will overheat and could cause brake fade...
Gracias ok
in reality nothing goes by that easy
😎👍
great vid, although no cylinder replacement? is this because of how ridiculous that stupid snap ring retainer is? worst design ever for cylinder mounting urghh
It's an easier job with snap ring pliers
That doesn't even cover half the vehicles on the road.
How to remove fan belt rav4 2000
Good video, but would have been a lot better without the distracting and unnecessary music.
Great video but please leave off the stupid music.