Well, that certainly explains everything. I have a small lathe with change gears and have been reluctant to mess with them. Now I feel like I can make changes like the big boys. It isn’t rocket science, it’s just a good explanation. Thank you.
After watching this video again for the umpteenth time it finally clicked. You weren’t setting it up to cut threads you were setting it up for travel. I went out and looked at my C9-10jr this morning and it was set up like you described. I checked and it travels .004 per revolution. Now i get the difference between threading and longitudinal travel speed via changing gears. Thanks for the video!!!
Mr. Pete, you have your nuts mixed up on the gearing when you change out the new gearing ratio. The thin nut belongs on the stud gear. You have it on the middle compound gear. The thick nut belongs on the compound gear. And yes, there is a washer behind the nut on the screw gear. I know this stuff too well from all the years of changing out gearing on the 9" SBL cutting threads. Dad was a stickler on this stuff just like Mr. Pete! Yes, I watched the full video and paid attention in class today! Thanks for sharing, Ken
Thank you for this, any, and all your videos related to lathe gears and quick change gear boxes. My Clausing 5914 engine lathe came in buckets and getting the gearing to match the threading chart is my last hurdle. You may not directly address my issue but your videos have a tendency to educate me to the point that I can. Thanks, again!
Lyle, thank you for this video. I have an old (1911) South Bend 11-inch lathe that is a model C -- your explanation really helps with understanding how to change its gears. Now I just need a set of 14-1/2 degree gear cutters so that I can machine replacements for the missing/incorrect change gears I ended up with when I bought the lathe! Then I'll be changing the gears as you demonstrated. ;) Also, I remember reading somewhere (in a book, not on the Internet!) that notebook paper makes a good spacer when setting the change gear clearances.
I have only changed my Atlas change gears once for the very reasons you demonstrated in this video. My Atlas has a beautiful OEM wood top base on cast legs. I like its originality, but the wood surface limits mag base attachment points for my indicators. Your steel table would be a welcome upgrade to me for function, but I have been loyal to the Atlas design. I see very few OEM Atlas bases. I treasure mine. It is a pretty handsome upgrade for an otherwise pretty basic and light machine. We set up my feed selection years ago in very cramped and poorly lit shop conditions. (The machine now has a well lit and spacious new home.) The feed is way too fast for good finish. This video encouraged me to set it up for a better universal finish and to get back to a long delayed LeBlond rebuild that I began years ago. The LeBlond is a true industrial machine and has a feed gearbox. It is also much larger. It deserves to be in use instead of being an aborted rebuild project... Too many projects...!
I would love to see a video on this using the metric gears and the quick change gear box on a SB9 and how to set the tumblers. Thanks Mr Pete for another great video.
@@MrEh5 Actually no. The intermediate gears between the spindle and the quick-change box allow not only metric threads but also other feeds and threads. My bench lathe will cut 17 other inch threads not listed on the QCB between 3.75tpi and 128tpi. Of course, you would probably never use any of these oddball threads, but they are available. An inch cutting lathe with a 120/127 compound gear will cut metric leads exactly. Lathes, such as bench model South Bends, use a compound gear that is very close to exact. By very close, I mean that you would have to have a length of engagement of over 12 inches (300mm) before you might detect any binding. The error would be very difficult to detect in a job shop, let alone the hobby shop.
@@MrEh5 My lathe came with extra gears required to cut all the metric standard leads. South Bend had them listed in their catalogs. Lyle has a video where he made SB gears in plastic on a flat-bed 3-D printer.
You must have been the world's greatest shop teacher. My shop teacher didn't go into things to the depth that you did. He was also the agriculture teacher.
Really appreciate the series, Thank you Mr. Pete. I bought a 9" SOUTH BEND LATHE model C from a neighbor about 12 years ago. Covid was my first opportunity of time I had with the machine. I'm not much of a machinist, but I always wanted Smitty's lathe if he ever sold it. I did get a quick change gear box in the deal, but it has never been fitted. I look forward to watching the entire series.
As always, thank you, Mr. Pete, for a very informative video. I’ve been looking for a South Bend lathe in my area for awhile now, and hope to join the community soon! Merry Christmas!
Well, I was accused recently of posting my videos on Saturday morning in an effort to capitalize on your posting on Saturday morning. I've got a series of videos in the works dealing with change gears and single point threading on "modern" import lathes. Guess I'll get crucified for capitalizing on you again. 🙂 Always appreciate your videos and looking forward to this entire series.
We have a large Monarch NN lathe at work that is mainly designed to cut cable grooves in cable drums for overhead cranes. The slowest feed it has is .009" but its a 50" swing lathe. It will cut cable grooves up to a 2" lead. That gets the carriage moving pretty good. I just turned a couple bronze split bushings on it that were 35" in dia. and 24" long. They weigh almost 2,000 lbs before I started machining.
That South Bend is a nice gift that's for sure, Tubalcain, great to see you explaining the gear change operation, definitely makes me appreciate the quick change in my SB 13"
Thanks Mr. Pete! The model C was the first rebuild I did a couple of years ago. I never knew about the dial indicator and turn the chuck trick. And the tailstock wrench fits the gear nuts??? what??? I have changed those so many times with that book in hand, and never even tried that wrench LOL. On a side note, I 3D printed a couple of gears to convert the 9C to thread metric. It worked like a charm. I purposely put extra stress on the machine to try and break off teeth on the plastic gear, but it held like a champ. Thanks Mr. Pete. You are a mensch.
it seems to be ironic in my life that about 3 months ago i bought this exact same lathe which is kind of a niche machine becuase of its age. and you sir made a video of just what i needed to know at the same time. thank you Mr tubelcain!
I have this lathe that was given to me by a friend. I got the change gears on Ebay several years ago but have been reluctant to fool with them as I am not a machinist. I am happy to find this video. Your videos are first rate, and I knew that you had been a shop teacher as soon as I began watching them. Please keep them coming.
Quite interesting. I have the great, great grand daddy of this lathe, the Atlas model 928 in original condition. The information that I have shows it to be from 1933. It has never been restored and still works just fine.
Thank you for all the time you take making us these videos thank you especially for this one I have a south bend see I set it up to cut threads i have short term memory lost miss placed my south bend book I want to set it back up for feed so this helps me a lot I worked in a shop where we remanufactured EMD s when they were setting up the front end water pump s oil pump s all meshed together they had to set back lash on every gear with a indicator
Great video Pete👍 well explained. I’ve had a 9” Southbend for many years and not used it very much as I have access to others at work if I need to machine anything. Mine has the deluxe apron but no quick change box. A model B as I’ve just learned😃. I had to replace the motor a few years ago and had to work out how to wire it for the reverse switch. Very complicated but satisfying when everyone tells you it can’t be done🤣
Mr. Pete I have a 6 inch atlas lathe . I have set it up for threading in the past but have always struggled with gear spacing . Would never have thought of using card stock between the gears . Thanks . the old retired cop from NC
A most informative video . First I've seen referring to the southbend 9 inch models . I have the model b and cant wait to see the next part as it's all new to me so this really helps . thank you
I am building me a lathe and I have the c headstock with banjo but i have to make all the gears . This just revived me in interest to continue on . Thanks !
I see that you are using a link type belt on your lathe. One of the few things that Horrid Freight sells is a green color American made belt of similar design. I have a couple that I use of the red variety like yours that for determining the belt length for replacing torn belts. Otherwise I don't typically use them as they are expensive.
Thank-you, I watch all your videos. I'd like to see the dimensions of that round back plate and how it mounts...(4:10 behind your finger.) It is missing from my SB.
Be more specific on what you want. Then send me an email. You will find my email address in the following video, search for it. This is the title of the video Christmas special MrPete shop courses videos
I'm on my 3rd or 4th time watching this one and I do enjoy it. I also enjoy all the changing and setup as I do it but I'm sure I'm one in a few . I don't rush in my shop and I want to do it after all I am the boss lol .
Many thanks kind Sir, I really appreciate your video's, I inherited a 1980's Grizzly Gun lathe. Your wealth of information really helps even though it isn't on my lathe. Merry Christmas and I hope that you and your family have a Healthy and Happy New Year Lyle.
It would be interesting for some to know how to calculate threads & feeds if there is no chart. For example, how could one figure out that the original gearing (13TPI) was in fact 13 TPI if no chart was available? That might make an additional video for this series.
Well once you have all the teeth counted it is simple math to find the reduction ratio. Any idler gear can be ignored. The reversing gears are idlers and so can be ignored. However Mr. Pete does not tell us what the gear behind the stud gear is but you can count it in later part of the vid so 24t so the same as the spindle gear. Reduction is 32/52 = .6154 (80t is an idler) If the Lead screw is 8 tpi ( notice in the chart 8 tpi gears are 32/32 = 0 ratio) then the pitch is 1/8 = .125 So then .6154 x .125 =.0769 = 13tpi After the set up for turning 24/54 = .4444 18/72 = .25 18/80 = .225 and lead screw pitch is .125 .4444 x .25 x .225 x .125 = .0031
Another great instructive video. All those gear connections remind me of the old spiritual; “Oh, the hip bone connected to the thigh bone; the thigh bone connected to the leg bone; the leg bone connected to the knee bone; the knee bone connected to the ankle bone. All them bones gonna walk gonna walk, all them bones gonna walk!” 😂 Btw Lyle, you’ve got a good singing voice.
Hey Mr Pete, It seems like you can mathematically determine what gears are needed to an extent. For example, given the gears installed at the start (including the fixed gears on the spindle and the reversing set), I believe I can derive the threads per inch off the lead screw based on the lathe being set up to cut 13 threads per inch. At the start of the video, the gears affecting the ratio from the spindle down are: 24 to 32 to 32 to 52. 24 to 32 is a ratio of .75 32 to 32 doesn't change the ratio but if it did, I believe you calculate the effective ratio as the previous ratio (.75) * (the ration of the driving gear (32) to the driven gear (32) (or in other words the gear-to-gear ration is 1) so the effective ration is still .75 For 32 to 52, the ratio is the previous ration * (driving / driven) or .75 / (32 / 52) or 0.461538462 So, for every rotation of the chuck, the gear on the lead screw turns .461538462 of a revolution. If the thread being cut is 13 threads per inch, the per chuck revolution movement of the threading tool must be 1/13th an inch or 0.076923077 of an inch If the lead screw turns .461538462 of a revolution for every revolution of the chuck and the tool needs to move 0.076923077 of an inch then we need the lead screw pitch to be (.461538462 lead screw revolution / chuck revolution) / (0.076923077 of an inch / chuck revolution) or 6 lead screw turns / inch (if I handled the units correctly!). Thus, the lead screw must be 6 teeth per inch. How did I do?
Fascinating as always Mr. Pete! I can certainly see the appeal of a fast-change box. I wonder if it is possible to add one of those to the model 'B' like you did the apron? Were they sufficiently modular for that?
Oh for heaven sakes, the tail stock wrench. Never thought. But the wrenches provided will do much. This older 1928 has a fine feed of .004 per rev of the chuck. You just taught me that check and I tried it. Still astounded and even baffled on some of the production changes between this 22-RC 9C and your newer 9. The direction change lever for the lead screw really got me. That nice lathe went back to 1911 with the square head snug bolt to hold the position. This 28 has a nice spring-loaded brass unlocking lever on the change lever and a pin to lock it in the three positions. One armed banjo here with no guard between the lead screw and gear. Do you know your spindle speed as shown? I stick at 300 rpm's and dump oil to the spindle and he uses it. Scared to speed him up and accelerate wear on this once thru oiling system for the spindle. And more to come about gearing... Cool!
The fact that the reversing gears are 32t doesn't matter because they are idler gears just like the 80t in the first part. You didn't count the gear behind the stud gear but I did and it is 24t same as the spindle (on my atlas they are also the same) So the Stud Gear rotates at spindle speed.
Hello Mr Pete.. got any videos on a 9" South Bend Model C forward and reverse switch rebuild? It seems that my 1935 has one burnt contact fingers-looking thing? not sure if there are any replacements? Dont want to buy a whole switch just because of one contact.
I just purchased an old South Bend machine, I only have one gear up top engaging into the Chuck gear? Also, my banjo only has slide for gearing the model you’re working on has two? Is my unit older?
@@mrpete222 thanks for replying, after many hours of research, I figured out my unit is a model 405 from 1934 and the gearing and everything is noticeably different
hola. soy de argentina. necesito una fotografia del del motro y sus poleas y correas . tengo uno hace años y estoy tratando de restaurarlo. podras ayudarme?
Well, that certainly explains everything. I have a small lathe with change gears and have been reluctant to mess with them. Now I feel like I can make changes like the big boys. It isn’t rocket science, it’s just a good explanation. Thank you.
👍
After watching this video again for the umpteenth time it finally clicked. You weren’t setting it up to cut threads you were setting it up for travel. I went out and looked at my C9-10jr this morning and it was set up like you described. I checked and it travels .004 per revolution. Now i get the difference between threading and longitudinal travel speed via changing gears. Thanks for the video!!!
Glad it finally clicked!
Good morning Mr.Pete. i can't speak for anyone else...but i enjoy every second of your videos. Keep them coming please. Have a wonderful weekend.
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Good Morning Mr Pete!
Love your videos, takes me back 50 yrs.
😀
Mr. Pete, you have your nuts mixed up on the gearing when you change out the new gearing ratio. The thin nut belongs on the stud gear. You have it on the middle compound gear. The thick nut belongs on the compound gear. And yes, there is a washer behind the nut on the screw gear. I know this stuff too well from all the years of changing out gearing on the 9" SBL cutting threads. Dad was a stickler on this stuff just like Mr. Pete! Yes, I watched the full video and paid attention in class today! Thanks for sharing, Ken
Thanks, when the weather warms up, I’ll fix that
Good mourning mr.pete , great video wright up my alley on my southbend. Thankyou 😎👌
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You are a machine Mr. Pete! Very productive.
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This is why you are the inter-web shop teacher thank you Lyle.
👍👍👍
Thank you for this, any, and all your videos related to lathe gears and quick change gear boxes. My Clausing 5914 engine lathe came in buckets and getting the gearing to match the threading chart is my last hurdle. You may not directly address my issue but your videos have a tendency to educate me to the point that I can. Thanks, again!
👍👍
Good morning Mr Peter.
I apreciete the information in your videos. Thanks a lot.
Cordial greetings from Mexico.
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This is why you can find them set for .003 and have a tailstock die holder. Thanks Mr Pete.
Lyle, thank you for this video. I have an old (1911) South Bend 11-inch lathe that is a model C -- your explanation really helps with understanding how to change its gears. Now I just need a set of 14-1/2 degree gear cutters so that I can machine replacements for the missing/incorrect change gears I ended up with when I bought the lathe! Then I'll be changing the gears as you demonstrated. ;)
Also, I remember reading somewhere (in a book, not on the Internet!) that notebook paper makes a good spacer when setting the change gear clearances.
👍
I have only changed my Atlas change gears once for the very reasons you demonstrated in this video. My Atlas has a beautiful OEM wood top base on cast legs. I like its originality, but the wood surface limits mag base attachment points for my indicators. Your steel table would be a welcome upgrade to me for function, but I have been loyal to the Atlas design. I see very few OEM Atlas bases. I treasure mine. It is a pretty handsome upgrade for an otherwise pretty basic and light machine. We set up my feed selection years ago in very cramped and poorly lit shop conditions. (The machine now has a well lit and spacious new home.) The feed is way too fast for good finish. This video encouraged me to set it up for a better universal finish and to get back to a long delayed LeBlond rebuild that I began years ago. The LeBlond is a true industrial machine and has a feed gearbox. It is also much larger. It deserves to be in use instead of being an aborted rebuild project... Too many projects...!
At one time, I had a atlas machine on the cast iron legs It also has the nice wood top that you mentioned.
I would love to see a video on this using the metric gears and the quick change gear box on a SB9 and how to set the tumblers. Thanks Mr Pete for another great video.
A quick change gearbox leaves you no threading options other than what it has.
@@MrEh5 Actually no. The intermediate gears between the spindle and the quick-change box allow not only metric threads but also other feeds and threads. My bench lathe will cut 17 other inch threads not listed on the QCB between 3.75tpi and 128tpi. Of course, you would probably never use any of these oddball threads, but they are available.
An inch cutting lathe with a 120/127 compound gear will cut metric leads exactly. Lathes, such as bench model South Bends, use a compound gear that is very close to exact. By very close, I mean that you would have to have a length of engagement of over 12 inches (300mm) before you might detect any binding. The error would be very difficult to detect in a job shop, let alone the hobby shop.
@@aceroadholder2185 yes but most people don't have extra change gears when they have a quick change gearbox.
@@MrEh5 My lathe came with extra gears required to cut all the metric standard leads. South Bend had them listed in their catalogs. Lyle has a video where he made SB gears in plastic on a flat-bed 3-D printer.
You must have been the world's greatest shop teacher. My shop teacher didn't go into things to the depth that you did. He was also the agriculture teacher.
Yes, I wasn’t in the worlds, greatest shop teacher, lol
That makes me appreciate my quick change gear box even more. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
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Great video! Thanks for the detailed demonstration. It gives me a great respect for the men that designed and engineered these versatile machines.
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Thanks Mr Pete, it like being back at trade school, so many years ago. We got told to use news paper to set backlash space.
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Really appreciate the series, Thank you Mr. Pete. I bought a 9" SOUTH BEND LATHE model C from a neighbor about 12 years ago. Covid was my first opportunity of time I had with the machine. I'm not much of a machinist, but I always wanted Smitty's lathe if he ever sold it. I did get a quick change gear box in the deal, but it has never been fitted. I look forward to watching the entire series.
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As always, thank you, Mr. Pete, for a very informative video. I’ve been looking for a South Bend lathe in my area for awhile now, and hope to join the community soon! Merry Christmas!
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Well, I was accused recently of posting my videos on Saturday morning in an effort to capitalize on your posting on Saturday morning. I've got a series of videos in the works dealing with change gears and single point threading on "modern" import lathes. Guess I'll get crucified for capitalizing on you again. 🙂 Always appreciate your videos and looking forward to this entire series.
We understand
We have a large Monarch NN lathe at work that is mainly designed to cut cable grooves in cable drums for overhead cranes. The slowest feed it has is .009" but its a 50" swing lathe. It will cut cable grooves up to a 2" lead. That gets the carriage moving pretty good. I just turned a couple bronze split bushings on it that were 35" in dia. and 24" long. They weigh almost 2,000 lbs before I started machining.
Wow
That South Bend is a nice gift that's for sure, Tubalcain, great to see you explaining the gear change operation, definitely makes me appreciate the quick change in my SB 13"
It sure is!
Really nice demonstration, thank you for taking the time to do it for us . Length just perfect 👍☘️
😀
Ive owned this model for 30 years. Today I got more practical information than in all that time. Thanks Mr. Pete.
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Yes,we like this video.Back to basics.Thank you.
Thanks Mr. Pete! The model C was the first rebuild I did a couple of years ago. I never knew about the dial indicator and turn the chuck trick. And the tailstock wrench fits the gear nuts??? what??? I have changed those so many times with that book in hand, and never even tried that wrench LOL. On a side note, I 3D printed a couple of gears to convert the 9C to thread metric. It worked like a charm. I purposely put extra stress on the machine to try and break off teeth on the plastic gear, but it held like a champ. Thanks Mr. Pete. You are a mensch.
Thank you, I’m glad you liked the video. Those printed gears really seem to be a strong
it seems to be ironic in my life that about 3 months ago i bought this exact same lathe which is kind of a niche machine becuase of its age. and you sir made a video of just what i needed to know at the same time. thank you Mr tubelcain!
👍👍👍
I have this lathe that was given to me by a friend. I got the change gears on Ebay several years ago but have been reluctant to fool with them as I am not a machinist. I am happy to find this video. Your videos are first rate, and I knew that you had been a shop teacher as soon as I began watching them. Please keep them coming.
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Thank you for education us. I bought a mini lathe that came with a set of change gears but not manual. Your video clarifies the gears operation
That’s a nice little lathe
Quite interesting. I have the great, great grand daddy of this lathe, the Atlas model 928 in original condition. The information that I have shows it to be from 1933. It has never been restored and still works just fine.
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Thank you for all the time you take making us these videos thank you especially for this one I have a south bend see I set it up to cut threads i have short term memory lost miss placed my south bend book I want to set it back up for feed so this helps me a lot I worked in a shop where we remanufactured EMD s when they were setting up the front end water pump s oil pump s all meshed together they had to set back lash on every gear with a indicator
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You are awesome! I inherited this lathe from my grandfather and your videos are a great help to setting it up.
Glad I could help!
Great video Mr. Pete. I just picked up a old Logan lathe .
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Outstanding Edutainment! And thanks for the safety reminders as well. I had to take a person to the ER who inadvertently remove 4 of his "digits".
Ouch
Just bought a South Bend model C, your videos are really helping me get it up and going!
Have fun with that new machine
Great video Pete👍 well explained. I’ve had a 9” Southbend for many years and not used it very much as I have access to others at work if I need to machine anything. Mine has the deluxe apron but no quick change box. A model B as I’ve just learned😃. I had to replace the motor a few years ago and had to work out how to wire it for the reverse switch. Very complicated but satisfying when everyone tells you it can’t be done🤣
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Mr. Pete I have a 6 inch atlas lathe . I have set it up for threading in the past but have always struggled with gear spacing . Would never have thought of using card stock between the gears . Thanks . the old retired cop from NC
A most informative video . First I've seen referring to the southbend 9 inch models . I have the model b and cant wait to see the next part as it's all new to me so this really helps . thank you
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And now we know why quick change gear boxes exist. I have an O'Brien Machine Co aftermarket on the Logan. Both made about 1945....
thank you, I have seen those gear boxes advertised in old magazines
I am building me a lathe and I have the c headstock with banjo but i have to make all the gears . This just revived me in interest to continue on . Thanks !
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I bought a small lathe two weeks ago, and this lesson is exectly what i need. Thank you.
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I see that you are using a link type belt on your lathe. One of the few things that Horrid Freight sells is a green color American made belt of similar design. I have a couple that I use of the red variety like yours that for determining the belt length for replacing torn belts. Otherwise I don't typically use them as they are expensive.
They are costly. But easy to install, and seem to work quite well.
How about changing the gears to cut metric threads on an imperial machine, and the rule of clasp nu engagement
Very well explained and executed demonstration, keep up the good work Mrpete 👍👍
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Not a machinist here, but I always enjoy technical videos. I think I might have made a decent machinist in my youth. Thanks.
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Very good and thorough explanation...as always, very interesting.
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Very informative video.
Thank you
Very nice explanation of change gears.
Thank you , I have a model C just like that one . Mine has a tag riveted to the bed that says (certified for war production)
Thank you Mr. Pete, very well explained!
Thank-you, I watch all your videos. I'd like to see the dimensions of that round back plate and how it mounts...(4:10 behind your finger.) It is missing from my SB.
Be more specific on what you want. Then send me an email. You will find my email address in the following video, search for it.
This is the title of the video
Christmas special MrPete shop courses videos
@@mrpete222 Thanks, found it, PT No. 389NK2 if anyone else needs one.
Thanks, I found this very informative, I also like the in-depth explanations. It cuts out the yeah, but what abouts.
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Thanks Mr Pete for this video. I found most helpful.
I'm on my 3rd or 4th time watching this one and I do enjoy it. I also enjoy all the changing and setup as I do it but I'm sure I'm one in a few . I don't rush in my shop and I want to do it after all I am the boss lol .
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Thanks Mr.Pete very informative.
That was a very helpful video. Thank you for doing all the work required to demonstrate that for us.
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@mrpete222 check out this scammer with the fake account!
Great explanation, thank you
Many thanks kind Sir, I really appreciate your video's, I inherited a 1980's Grizzly Gun lathe. Your wealth of information really helps even though it isn't on my lathe. Merry Christmas and I hope that you and your family have a Healthy and Happy New Year Lyle.
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Thanks master for sharing I do need these gears for my homemade lathe
It would be interesting for some to know how to calculate threads & feeds if there is no chart. For example, how could one figure out that the original gearing (13TPI) was in fact 13 TPI if no chart was available? That might make an additional video for this series.
That's something I've wondered about myself. I would definitely be interested.
Well once you have all the teeth counted it is simple math to find the reduction ratio. Any idler gear can be ignored.
The reversing gears are idlers and so can be ignored. However Mr. Pete does not tell us what the gear behind the stud gear is but you can count it in later part of the vid so 24t so the same as the spindle gear. Reduction is 32/52 = .6154 (80t is an idler) If the Lead screw is 8 tpi ( notice in the chart 8 tpi gears are 32/32 = 0 ratio) then the pitch is 1/8 = .125 So then .6154 x .125 =.0769 = 13tpi
After the set up for turning 24/54 = .4444 18/72 = .25 18/80 = .225 and lead screw pitch is .125
.4444 x .25 x .225 x .125 = .0031
@@Bargle5 See my Comment below
Look at "Advanced Machine Work" which is available online. My 1917 edition shows how to do this with any lead screw pitch.
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Such a Pleasure Lyle...
Thanks Much..
Mike M.
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I like every video you make. And I thumbs up them beforehand just to prove it!!!!!
😀😀😀
As always, thanks for a great video. You just seem to get better and better.
my wife says I’m getting worse and worse
Thank you for a clear explanation of this, although I have a Myford ML7 the principal seems transferable.
Yes
My husband has asked me to let you know that this was a fantastic video, can you do more please.
Yes
Don't apologize for the length of the video, it was perfect !!
Thanks
Another great instructive video. All those gear connections remind me of the old spiritual; “Oh, the hip bone connected to the thigh bone; the thigh bone connected to the leg bone; the leg bone connected to the knee bone; the knee bone connected to the ankle bone. All them bones gonna walk gonna walk, all them bones gonna walk!” 😂
Btw Lyle, you’ve got a good singing voice.
You mean them dry bones. I will watch the video link that you gave me. I always liked George Younce.
Hey Mr Pete,
It seems like you can mathematically determine what gears are needed to an extent.
For example, given the gears installed at the start (including the fixed gears on the spindle and the reversing set), I believe I can derive the threads per inch off the lead screw based on the lathe being set up to cut 13 threads per inch.
At the start of the video, the gears affecting the ratio from the spindle down are: 24 to 32 to 32 to 52.
24 to 32 is a ratio of .75
32 to 32 doesn't change the ratio but if it did, I believe you calculate the effective ratio as the previous ratio (.75) * (the ration of the driving gear (32) to the driven gear (32) (or in other words the gear-to-gear ration is 1) so the effective ration is still .75
For 32 to 52, the ratio is the previous ration * (driving / driven) or .75 / (32 / 52) or 0.461538462
So, for every rotation of the chuck, the gear on the lead screw turns .461538462 of a revolution.
If the thread being cut is 13 threads per inch, the per chuck revolution movement of the threading tool must be 1/13th an inch or 0.076923077 of an inch
If the lead screw turns .461538462 of a revolution for every revolution of the chuck and the tool needs to move 0.076923077 of an inch then we need the lead screw pitch to be (.461538462 lead screw revolution / chuck revolution) / (0.076923077 of an inch / chuck revolution) or 6 lead screw turns / inch (if I handled the units correctly!).
Thus, the lead screw must be 6 teeth per inch.
How did I do?
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Fascinating as always Mr. Pete! I can certainly see the appeal of a fast-change box. I wonder if it is possible to add one of those to the model 'B' like you did the apron? Were they sufficiently modular for that?
I am not sure
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Do you have any video on what to look for when buying a new used machine.
#52 buying a lathe tubalcain
@@mrpete222 thank you
Great videos brother! Lodge #95, Beckley, WV.
Thank you Sir! Great explanation!
Good tutorial. I will add, though, that the two gears on the reverser level are also idlers. They do NOT need to be the same tooth count.
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Oh for heaven sakes, the tail stock wrench. Never thought. But the wrenches provided will do much.
This older 1928 has a fine feed of .004 per rev of the chuck. You just taught me that check and I tried it.
Still astounded and even baffled on some of the production changes between this 22-RC 9C and your newer 9. The direction change lever for the lead screw really got me.
That nice lathe went back to 1911 with the square head snug bolt to hold the position. This 28 has a nice spring-loaded brass unlocking lever on the change lever and a pin to lock it in the three positions. One armed banjo here with no guard between the lead screw and gear.
Do you know your spindle speed as shown? I stick at 300 rpm's and dump oil to the spindle and he uses it. Scared to speed him up and accelerate wear on this once thru oiling system for the spindle.
And more to come about gearing... Cool!
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Thank you
Great video! thank you! keep the videos coming!
The fact that the reversing gears are 32t doesn't matter because they are idler gears just like the 80t in the first part. You didn't count the gear behind the stud gear but I did and it is 24t same as the spindle (on my atlas they are also the same) So the Stud Gear rotates at spindle speed.
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thanks for informative video, I wish I had the change for my 9" c. Just an idea, how about a video on lubrication of the 9".
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Always fantastic.......
Yep I know how you feel I own a model c 😢
Love this Video Mr Pete........
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As always, great video!! It's time for a Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew conversion. It brings an old lathe into the 21st century!
Hello Mr Pete.. got any videos on a 9" South Bend Model C forward and reverse switch rebuild? It seems that my 1935 has one burnt contact fingers-looking thing? not sure if there are any replacements? Dont want to buy a whole switch just because of one contact.
I put a small piece of writing paper between the gears.
Thanks for the video
How many tooth gear is the one behind the spur gear ? The one that meshes with the 32 tooth reversing gear .
15:22 lol 'tormented' .......
I just purchased an old South Bend machine, I only have one gear up top engaging into the Chuck gear? Also, my banjo only has slide for gearing the model you’re working on has two? Is my unit older?
I am really not sure
@@mrpete222 thanks for replying, after many hours of research, I figured out my unit is a model 405 from 1934 and the gearing and everything is noticeably different
Who is John Collings? Previous owner?
Yes. And donator or do I mean donor
@@mrpete222 yes, I typed it then I heard you mention his name lol
@@mrpete222 and thank you for sharing this
Wanna be machinists.. wow. Pretty arrogant way of saying novice
Pick, pick
hola. soy de argentina. necesito una fotografia del del motro y sus poleas y correas . tengo uno hace años y estoy tratando de restaurarlo. podras ayudarme?
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