2016 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI Timing chain replacement quick overview and key points
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
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If your doing this job, you’ll need:
1) Timing set (chain, tensioner, and two chain guides)
2) Two O-rings for the oil pump suction and discharge side. These go in between the timing cover and the engine block, as the oil pump is built into the timing cover.
3) Ideally both intake and exhaust camshaft phasers. For this car, this solved the timing issues, as I found the chain had not jumped timing like I expected it to.
4) RTV sealant, as that is what the factory uses to seal the timing cover to the engine. Pay special attention to the water pump area.
Use two M6 bolts to remove the timing cover from engine, using the factory tapped holes by the two dowel pins. DO NOT PRY!
Found the part number for the o-rings. Kia/Hyundai #21142-2b000 (part code 1710af). Hopefully this will save someone headaches trying to find it.
Nice, I’ll add that to the video description. Nice work Jay
Thank you this will help
i try those m6 bolts and it started cfoming off but wont come off... any suggestions? I removed the camshaft pulley bolt and harmonic balancer I wasnt supposed to like remove something else on that crankshaft pole was i looks like yours is still there
Hi tadd, i am located in Michigan and have sn 2014 eco diesel that needs some work, how do i contact uour business? Scott
My kia rio 2012, with 251.000 on it just starter making a ticking noise. When i opened the valvecover i noticed that when rotating the engine, the chain tightens and then loosens. Which made me think the chain isnt good anymore. Do u think changing it like this would solve the problem? And if so, what kit did u order on amazon, do u have a link maybe? Thanks for the video by the way, it helps alot!
Like and subscribe if you haven’t already please! But yes, I do think you should replace your timing chain and tensioner before it skips timing and causes major engine damage to your valve train.
Here is the chain I bought. I usually try to avoid no-name brands like this, but the reality is there is very little aftermarket support for this timing chain. But this kit works, and the Kia I fixed is still alive and well. I would also recommend you buy new camshaft phasers as well. In your case, with the high mileage you have, but a new oil pump, which is essentially the entire timing cover. Oil volume is critical for high mileage vvt systems.
A-Premium Engine Timing Chain Kit... www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9W6BB1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here is intake phaser: amzn.to/4amxxMm
Here is exhaust: amzn.to/43xIjxd
one last question I think. So I finally got a compression tester and so my plan is to go back out there sometime today when its cooler, put the old chain back on without the tensioner or guides, attached the compressioner tester to cyl 1 and turn the crank until it gets to the marks as outlined in the service manual as "TDC" and also have some sort of "reading?" on the compression tester and also when I put the timing cover back on, do I put the RTV Gray on the cover or on the engine or on both?
@@adairjanney7109 your thumb over the adapter hose will be enough to know when you are on the compression stroke for cylinder 1. You can also tell just by looking at the camshaft lobes as you watch them turn. Listen to what I’m saying here - turn the crankshaft until your at top dead center on cylinder 1 on the compression stroke. The timing mark on the crankshaft should be at the 4pm position as shown in the video. The exhaust camshaft mark will be at 11am, and the intake camshaft at 1pm. Take a good look at the video where I have the chain and tensioner installed, as I’m wrapping up the job. Roughly 12:45 in the video.
@@tadsworkshop just to clarify a thing you said earlier I was under the impression now that the chain is removed I could find the compression struke by just turning the crankshaft without turning the lobes indepedently basically, like all thre could independtnly be put into the correct position by hand, becuase once I tried to put the chain back on I realized I was never going to get it back on exactly like I had it. So I figure I need to do what you say now but indepdently, so plan was turn until i find compression strike which tester is failing to do, prob something I did wrong, and then turn each love to point in the exact direciton they should point. Also the marks one looks like a golden dash the other I assume is a little cut out on the disk but in the service manual it shows two dashes.
@@tadsworkshop and also I thought I asked you this but I think I thought you were someone else and have been asking him, he is like wtf are you talking about timing chain... anyway the timing marks, on your video since its a rio and a 1.6L the same year I figured the same, but if you go to kiasoulman for my year 2016 it shows them pointing together, do you recommend following your videos marks or following the service manual. I know it probably sounds like I dont have a chance in hell of getting this complete, but I just ask questions that might sound dumb as hell but I just dont want to make a mistake, even after getting the chain on and the lobes in place etc ill prob try to find a way to confirm its good
I actually got the cover off just needed longer bolts, anyway, do you know if I can use the new tensioner pin to put it in the old tensioner to get it off, or does that even matter, if I remove it does it ruin it? Just reading instrucitons it says to depress it and put a pin in it and I dont have that pin
@@adairjanney7109 for removing, no, you don’t have to put the pin in the old one. Don’t waste your time with that. But before you remove the chain and tensioner, to make your life easier, make sure you are on top dead center on the compression stroke of cylinder 1.
@@tadsworkshop so basically spin the crankshaft thing until it gets to "TDC" on compression stroke of cyl 1, is cyl 1 the closest to the timing chain also which is the compression stroke? Yeah I know prob should already know these things but you do what you have to do and with 251,000 miles I figured id better do this if i want it to keep running but maybe im causing issues where I shouldnt but I didnt even really take care of it the first 100k miles, im amazed it still runs the only thing I can think of is I constantly am begging God, PLease God do not let this damn car shit out on me, I do NOT want a freaking car payment.
@@adairjanney7109 I totally get it. New cars are insanely overpriced. Do what you gotta do to keep yours on the road. But yes, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing chain. I used a adapter hose from a compression tester kit and threaded it into the spark plug hole, and with my thumb over the end of the hose, that made it easy to tell when I was on the compression stroke. Just pay attention to the timing marks I’m talking about in the video. The video is somewhat disorganized, but later in the video, you can see what it looks like with the chain installed and everything aligned perfectly.
Thanks for posting a great walkthrough. What kit did you use? I was going to replace a burnt valve when i noticed the timing chain was skipped :/
Thanks for the kind words.
I bought an “A-Premium” kit on Amazon. Normally I would try to find a name brand kit through rockauto, or a local parts store, but was surprised that there is almost no aftermarket kits for this engine. I found that kit on Amazon, and it was fast, and ultimately, it worked well. I also used the same brands camshaft phasers as well.
@@tadsworkshop Thank you so much! I've trying to find the parts but surprisingly there's hardly any available.
@@diegovelasquez4005yes, I was also surprised by this. Rockauto does have a kit, but no picture. But keep in mind, that Amazon kit will have one guide that cannot be used, as I pointed out in the video. I just reused the original guide on the radiator side of the engine. Also, be sure to use those 6mm bolt holes by the dowels pins to pull that timing cover off the engine. Don’t pry on it!
Thank you so much! I will definitely look into the rock auto part. Thanks for following up, I appreciate you!
Hey so I put everything together according to spec and it ran great but after a while I noticed it ran rough and then there was coolant in the oil after getting a p0108 and white smoke in the exhaust. I doubt its the cylinder gasket could a bad seal on the timing cover for the water pump be the culprit?
well I think I messed up, I followed a videos guide on how to find top dead center by using a screw driver going up and down and also watching the timing marks but I didnt pay attention to the marks on the outside of the cam just the position of the timing chain marks (different colored chains) and when they were in the right place and the first cylinder was at the top I thought I had found top dead center, and then removed everything. Now I am thinking that was wrong looking at your video again because my timing marks the little cutout and the mark on the variators whatever you called them, are the exact opposite direction that yours are, and they def dont point towards each other like to book claims, cyl one is all the way to the top, 2 and 3 are all the way to the bottom and cyl 4 is all the way to the top, did I screw up, can I put the chain back on without the tensioner and keep runing to get it where I need it or will that be insanely dumb? Or do i have to put EVERYTHING back how it was and turn it to get it to where it should be ? unless I am at TDC everything but those two marks look right but that probably means boo hoo you screwed up, this has turned out to be a lot i would say harder, just more involved that I had orignally imagined, have a feeling im talkinjg to my supervisor on monday, look bro not making it in today
@@adairjanney7109remember, this is all in reference to TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder 1. Keep in mind cylinder 1 is also at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke as well. Watch the camshaft lobes and their position to make sense of what stroke you are on. Remember, it goes intake stroke, compression stroke, power stroke, and exhaust stroke.
I realize from how you’re describing it, you may be a bit over your head, but I get it, you’re desperate to get the engine running again. In the engine, just make sure the marks are lined up exactly like in my video, where I have the new chain installed. Just focus on that. As long as the camshaft marks are where they should be, and the crankshaft mark is where it should be, you’re good.
Also - absolutely do not consider running it without tensioner installed. May as well scrap the engine if you do.
@@tadsworkshop no not run it, but can i put the chain back on without the guides and tensioner, and use the camshaft bolt to turn it again to get it correct?
@@adairjanney7109 yes you can. You can also turn the camshafts individually. What I like to do is turn the crankshaft by hand until all the pistons are halfway through their stroke. Halfway in between TDC and bdc. This will allow you to turn the camshafts without fear of bending a valve.
@@tadsworkshop thanks, now im just waiting for some more shade to get started again, freaking hot out west, dont know where you are but holy crap
@@adairjanney7109 Michigan here. 84 today. Not nearly as bad as out west im sure. Best of luck, I hope you can bring that engine back to life this weekend. Hit me up if you need more help.
hi, I have exactly the same Kia Rio and the same engine, but the VVTI clutch is noisy
Time to replace both vvt phasers and the timing set! Not a bad job overall. Just take your time and exercise care.
@@tadsworkshop thank you, my phase shifter is very noisy, both of them are very noisy, but for now I don’t have the money to change them, but I will change them soon, I’m from Kazakhstan
Do you have the part number for those oil pump o-rings? My dealer can’t seem to find the seal at all and I’m planning on doing this job soon. I found part numbers for the 2.0 engine (21356-2E021 & 21355-2E021) but I’m at a loss since the two I need are supposed to be identical. Should I just go with high pressure o-rings from a parts store that are close enough?
I ended up using some o-rings from those generic o-ring master kits you see everywhere. It worked out well, but if I could do it again, I would seek out the original o-rings. You might have to be your own parts guy and delve through the Kia parts diagrams online to find those part numbers.
@@tadsworkshop Thanks for the reply. What did you use to seal around the water pump? The repair manual calls for Three Bond (part #$$$$$) but Permatex makes rtv specifically for water pumps and t-stat housings.
@@jaywhite1850 I would use gray permatex RTV - that particular RTV is designed to go in between two rigid machined surfaces, so that would really be ideal.
@@tadsworkshop I’m running into an issue where I’m getting resistance when I manually turn the crankshaft to make sure everything is in sync. I had everything together and was making my revolutions but the marked links were out of sync and I hit a point where the crank wouldn’t turn at all. I disassembled everything and CAREFULLY lined everything back up but the crank will only turn about a quarter turn. Any suggestions on a next step?
@@jaywhite1850 did you remove the spark plugs so your not fighting against compression? I’m not saying that’s your issue but that will make it easier to get a feel for the engine. Just make sure when your setting your timing, your doing it with cylinder 1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure the exhaust lobe looks like it’s about to actuate the exhaust valve for the exhaust stroke.
kia.parts id pretty fast