Not your specific model but manuals.ls has a manual for the commercial version that seems to have the same controls. In the text it says the O button is used to set the 'carbonate hardness' so the RO on the display may indicate that it's set up to be used with a reverse osmosis system (i.e. treated water with zero water hardness). If that's the case, the amount of CO2 it's using for each draw isn't enough for the hardness of the water in your area. Unfortunately the data for the settings needed for specific scenarios is in another document but essentially there are three levels of carbonate. Try changing the O button settings (the manual suggests they can be changed by repeated pressing when they flash) and see what other values it displays/what effect that has on the bubbles.
The issue in my area seems to be that the water is too soft. So no Matter how much co2 is added it has nothing to grab on to. This seems to sound right. As for the professional model. It has more settings. The manual for this one only allows you to change the hardness of the water to allow the filter to last longer.
I got that gtech. Working and the newer model of the air ram (like the one you have). But the air ram isn’t working. The bearings behind the impeller have failed. It tries to start. Feels resistance and then dies. Good battery and motor. Just one little bit that has plastic and metal welded on both sides of the bearing. It is sold as a complete part assembly. So I’ll wait to find a spare. I am insulating under the kitchen floor at the moment. That is when the Henry comes into its own. Real dusty work.
I'm not seeing any many Henrys or Gtechs at the moment, I'd assume you're in the right place to scoop them up. Yes floor insulation is vital, I got the first clue back in the eighties in the book Autonomous House, cheers@@bootsowen
I read and reread that book on your recommendation. Lots of good ideas. Some lend themselves better to retrofit than others. Once this insulation is done the next bit would be to do the cellar floor. Have to dig down to maintain headroom. But I’m cautious that by putting an impermeable layer under the insulation I will drive the moisture from beneath over to the walls. How did you get around it Andy. Presumably you didn’t manage a damp proof course under the walls too ?
Owen, well we had to be careful due to very shallow footings ( 2 bricks), but the membrane is under the oversite, then the polystyrene on top, followed by a screed and tiles. The membrane comes up the walls to the level of the injected damp proof. Lovely warm floor, especially near the Rayburn range. I'd be careful of your footing depth, especially in a cellar. Ground water may be a problem, might be better to leave be, cheers @@bootsowen
possible that there might be a limit of fizz thing inside the unit that restricts how much enters the water might be possible to adjust it or by pass it to an extent where it fizzes to the right need
Hi. Thanks. No adjustment of the fizz on this model. I think my water is too soft. So I have ordered an inline remineralisation filter. If that works there will be another video
I often wonder whilst waiting for hot water to flow whether it would be more efficient for all hand basins to have their own electric hot water unit. It only has to get to your usual warm temperature.
So. I have pondered this quite a bit, not from a money point of view, because I heat with a combi boiler and it costs pennies. but there are fractions of pennies waiting in the pipe each time. A few years ago I ran 10mm plastic pipe for hot water to the garage, so much nicer than cold for washing parts, but I noticed that it came hot before the kitchen tap. so now I have run a new 10mm line from the boiler to the kitchen tap, much faster and not as much waste. arguable if there is any return on investment, but in this case I had all the bits in stores, so no cost. The real benefit is time waiting for the tap to heat.
0:04 what’s going on with your looks 😊 maybe that shadow and red shirt 👚 is highlighting a new darker side 🤗 to you. Maybe stay away from the hot press for the videos unless you invest in more lighting 😮 although nice work ❤
Not your specific model but manuals.ls has a manual for the commercial version that seems to have the same controls. In the text it says the O button is used to set the 'carbonate hardness' so the RO on the display may indicate that it's set up to be used with a reverse osmosis system (i.e. treated water with zero water hardness). If that's the case, the amount of CO2 it's using for each draw isn't enough for the hardness of the water in your area. Unfortunately the data for the settings needed for specific scenarios is in another document but essentially there are three levels of carbonate. Try changing the O button settings (the manual suggests they can be changed by repeated pressing when they flash) and see what other values it displays/what effect that has on the bubbles.
The issue in my area seems to be that the water is too soft. So no Matter how much co2 is added it has nothing to grab on to. This seems to sound right. As for the professional model. It has more settings. The manual for this one only allows you to change the hardness of the water to allow the filter to last longer.
I'm hoping your many Henrys were not watching, at least it was Gtech. Yes you are right, interesting but only an an example consumer junk. Cheers
I got that gtech. Working and the newer model of the air ram (like the one you have). But the air ram isn’t working. The bearings behind the impeller have failed. It tries to start. Feels resistance and then dies. Good battery and motor. Just one little bit that has plastic and metal welded on both sides of the bearing. It is sold as a complete part assembly. So I’ll wait to find a spare.
I am insulating under the kitchen floor at the moment. That is when the Henry comes into its own. Real dusty work.
I'm not seeing any many Henrys or Gtechs at the moment, I'd assume you're in the right place to scoop them up. Yes floor insulation is vital, I got the first clue back in the eighties in the book Autonomous House, cheers@@bootsowen
I read and reread that book on your recommendation. Lots of good ideas. Some lend themselves better to retrofit than others. Once this insulation is done the next bit would be to do the cellar floor. Have to dig down to maintain headroom. But I’m cautious that by putting an impermeable layer under the insulation I will drive the moisture from beneath over to the walls. How did you get around it Andy. Presumably you didn’t manage a damp proof course under the walls too ?
Owen, well we had to be careful due to very shallow footings ( 2 bricks), but the membrane is under the oversite, then the polystyrene on top, followed by a screed and tiles. The membrane comes up the walls to the level of the injected damp proof. Lovely warm floor, especially near the Rayburn range. I'd be careful of your footing depth, especially in a cellar. Ground water may be a problem, might be better to leave be, cheers @@bootsowen
possible that there might be a limit of fizz thing inside the unit that restricts how much enters the water might be possible to adjust it or by pass it to an extent where it fizzes to the right need
Hi. Thanks. No adjustment of the fizz on this model. I think my water is too soft. So I have ordered an inline remineralisation filter. If that works there will be another video
I often wonder whilst waiting for hot water to flow whether it would be more efficient for all hand basins to have their own electric hot water unit. It only has to get to your usual warm temperature.
So. I have pondered this quite a bit, not from a money point of view, because I heat with a combi boiler and it costs pennies. but there are fractions of pennies waiting in the pipe each time. A few years ago I ran 10mm plastic pipe for hot water to the garage, so much nicer than cold for washing parts, but I noticed that it came hot before the kitchen tap. so now I have run a new 10mm line from the boiler to the kitchen tap, much faster and not as much waste. arguable if there is any return on investment, but in this case I had all the bits in stores, so no cost. The real benefit is time waiting for the tap to heat.
Did you find out any resolution to fizz?
I added a remineralisation filter after the chiller and before the tap.
Could you paste here link to that filter or send me the specific name of filter? Thank you 👏🏻
A family member got a similar model but it doesn't have the fizzy function instead it boils water just like a kettle
the boiling water taps are pretty popular now. I don't believe that they are really 100 degrees.
@@bootsowen I mean it's hot enough to give you a third degree burn so 🤷♂️
so is my gf
0:04 what’s going on with your looks 😊 maybe that shadow and red shirt 👚 is highlighting a new darker side 🤗 to you. Maybe stay away from the hot press for the videos unless you invest in more lighting 😮 although nice work ❤