thanks for the video. always enjoy learning from those that know what they are doing. before shooting the video make sure both of you make sure your body is not blocking the view. this is for those of us that are not as experienced in these repairs and without someone shadowing you who really does know the details of these repairs, the smallest task can become a nightmare. love your tips on making the job easier/correct. most of the camera work was excellent. be safe.
Typically the trap door screws are very difficult to loosen, especially when they have been installed with Loctite . Heat the screws with a MAPP or Propane torch and they will come loose.
Just happened to be going through the clutch on my '67 Bonneville when your clutch rebuild videos popped up in this week's email. Watched all three and learned a few things along the way. My clutch plates look okay so I'm going to go back in with them. My thought was to just wipe them clean and reinsert them into the basket. But a fellow Brit biker tells me I should spray them with a cleaner such as CRC Brak Kleen, Laquer Thinner, Acetone, or Alcohol. I'm okay with doing that on the steel plates, but leery of applying such an aggressive cleaner on the bonded plates, for fear that the bonded material might begin to disintegrate. Should I clean the bonded plates with an aggressive cleaner, or just wipe them dry with a clean cloth?
In your first video (Disassembly) you extracted the chainwheel, clutch center, primary chain, and engine sprocket all together at the same time. I'm trying to extract the clutch center by itself without pulling everything else out. Just want to install new clutch rubbers in the shock absorber unit (clutch center). After removing the clutch center nut, I used that special puller tool (the clutch hub extractor) thinking I would be breaking loose the clutch center loose from the clutch hub. The clutch hub broke free but I can't get the clutch center to slide off of the clutch hub. When I pull on the clutch center, the chainwheel and clutch hub want to come out with it. This bike sat for many years. Could it be that the clutch center splines are frozen to the clutch hub splines? Or is not possible to remove the clutch center by itself?
Sometimes the sleeve will come out of the hub easily, sometimes not. If the sleeve is tight, you will have to press it out or drive it out. I hope this makes sense?
@@classicbritishspares Makes total sense. Reason I'm asking is I was able to slide a center (sleeve) off by hand on one of my other Triumph''s several years ago. Hopefully I can tap it out with soft blows from a hammer. I remember from the assembly video Curtis having to press the sleeve back onto the hub. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to slide the sleeve back onto the hub by hand. If not, then I'll have to tap it back on or get it pressed on. This leads me to another question. How do you determine if the primary chain is worn. Do you measure the amount of stretch on a table with a ruler? For example, if there's more than 1/8" of stretch, then it's time to replace? Really appreciate your willingness to field questions. It's huge in helping us Brit bikers!
@@robertmiddleton1053 Comes down to tolerances on the sleeve. I go by the chain adjuster, if the adjuster pad is in good shape and the adjuster is not maxed out, then I assume the chain is not stretched. A new chain fitted would mean that the adjuster pad would barley be engaged. If you get the chain adjusted with the right slack, but the adjuster is "bowed", the chain is stretched. I use that as a measure. No worries!!
Good work guys. Thanks for the info. 🏍🌞
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
thanks for the video. always enjoy learning from those that know what they are doing. before shooting the video make sure both of you make sure your body is not blocking the view. this is for those of us that are not as experienced in these repairs and without someone shadowing you who really does know the details of these repairs, the smallest task can become a nightmare. love your tips on making the job easier/correct. most of the camera work was excellent. be safe.
Thank you for watching and thank you for the tips!
Suggestion; use a bungee cord to hold the brake lever out of the way.
Typically the trap door screws are very difficult to loosen, especially when they have been installed with Loctite . Heat the screws with a MAPP or Propane torch and they will come loose.
Right, in this case we used an impact driver to break them free. Thanks for the suggestion on the bungee cord. Thanks fo watching!
Just happened to be going through the clutch on my '67 Bonneville when your clutch rebuild videos popped up in this week's email. Watched all three and learned a few things along the way. My clutch plates look okay so I'm going to go back in with them. My thought was to just wipe them clean and reinsert them into the basket. But a fellow Brit biker tells me I should spray them with a cleaner such as CRC Brak Kleen, Laquer Thinner, Acetone, or Alcohol. I'm okay with doing that on the steel plates, but leery of applying such an aggressive cleaner on the bonded plates, for fear that the bonded material might begin to disintegrate.
Should I clean the bonded plates with an aggressive cleaner, or just wipe them dry with a clean cloth?
In your first video (Disassembly) you extracted the chainwheel, clutch center, primary chain, and engine sprocket all together at the same time. I'm trying to extract the clutch center by itself without pulling everything else out. Just want to install new clutch rubbers in the shock absorber unit (clutch center). After removing the clutch center nut, I used that special puller tool (the clutch hub extractor) thinking I would be breaking loose the clutch center loose from the clutch hub. The clutch hub broke free but I can't get the clutch center to slide off of the clutch hub. When I pull on the clutch center, the chainwheel and clutch hub want to come out with it. This bike sat for many years. Could it be that the clutch center splines are frozen to the clutch hub splines? Or is not possible to remove the clutch center by itself?
Sometimes the sleeve will come out of the hub easily, sometimes not. If the sleeve is tight, you will have to press it out or drive it out. I hope this makes sense?
@@classicbritishspares Makes total sense. Reason I'm asking is I was able to slide a center (sleeve) off by hand on one of my other Triumph''s several years ago. Hopefully I can tap it out with soft blows from a hammer. I remember from the assembly video Curtis having to press the sleeve back onto the hub. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to slide the sleeve back onto the hub by hand. If not, then I'll have to tap it back on or get it pressed on.
This leads me to another question. How do you determine if the primary chain is worn. Do you measure the amount of stretch on a table with a ruler? For example, if there's more than 1/8" of stretch, then it's time to replace?
Really appreciate your willingness to field questions. It's huge in helping us Brit bikers!
@@robertmiddleton1053 Comes down to tolerances on the sleeve. I go by the chain adjuster, if the adjuster pad is in good shape and the adjuster is not maxed out, then I assume the chain is not stretched. A new chain fitted would mean that the adjuster pad would barley be engaged. If you get the chain adjusted with the right slack, but the adjuster is "bowed", the chain is stretched. I use that as a measure. No worries!!