sand them down (Wet sand) then add 3-4 new layers of feather cement...finally, 3-4 layers of impregnated sealer followed by a really good food safe poly coating.
You could also opt for cement backer boar board such as Durock, which is impervious and affordable. Not quite as convenient to work with; however, you would be able to eliminate swelling without worrying about application of separate sealant.
Great video! This is just what I was looking for as I wanted to see how well it held up, so thank you for your informative and honest video! Im now a new and faithful sub! :-D
We're starting to run out of projects already, but we still have a small upstairs bathroom that's untouched and we gotta build some kind of railing for the stairs. We just haven't decided what to do just yet, but I'm sure I'll make some videos when we do.
Oh wow. Thanks for posting this update. I just bought some ardex, because I plan on refinishing my cultured marble vanity in my bathroom. This helps to set expectations. It won't get as much wear as a kitchen would, but I'll know to avoid the beeswax :)
a good choice for the constriction would be plywood with hardie backer on top then ardex forta finish then you can use a two part epoxy sealer that is incredibly durable or a acrylic sealer which can be recoated easily when needed.
+MrDiyDork unfortunately if it's not stone it will show indentations..even concrete can fall victim to pressure marks..I prefer James hardie products over durock..I was impressed with the appearance in your 3 year update video..
I find that if you seal with a gloss epoxy it completely changes the color of the countertop. It is all brown it does not even look gray like concrete anymore.
@@linnerellie209 If you do not mind the color truning an ugly brown, use it. The feather finish alone is not very durable. In hindsight I should have used multiple coats of a matte/flat water based polyeurathane. I do not think it would have changed the color like the tabletop epoxy resin did. The polyeurathane would have also added durability, less than the epoxy, but at least the countertop would have looked better.
Thanks! They've held up pretty awesome for as little as we paid for them. I should have troweled a couple more coats of the Ardex and used a better clear coat when I first did them, but hindsight is 20/20 I guess. I'm sure we could sand them a bit, recoat and clear again, but we've been thinking about swapping them out for something else, so that's what we're going to do.
I saw someone else mention that, and I think that might be able to work. It would be little harder to cut/shape than plywood, but could be pretty cool. I may have to experiment with that on a table or something to see.
They recommend using concrete board & dampen it with a sponge as the concrete bonds to the concrete board but does not bond to plywood. if you use plywood you must use a moisture barrier between the concrete & plywood. Handy dandy tip. 🤗
Just saw this update and thought the same thing. Cement board, or even a couple layers of Hardie Backer might hold up better, especially since they have fiber reinforcement inside them.
I have had my ardex feather finish kitchen countertops for 3 years also and have not experienced any of the problems that you describe in your video. What kind of clear coat did you use. I can put extremely hot pans on mine with no problems. Please ad in your video that all of the nicks, dents, shallow areas can be easily fixed by sanding the finish off of the damaged countertops, reapplying the ardex and resealing. I am a subscriber and love your videos and ideas! If you would like the name of the sealer I used I would be happy to share..it's just not handy to find right this second!
I didn't do a lot of research when I picked up our sealer. It was the only one I found at Menards. Don't remember the brand though. You could definitely re-sand the tops a bit, re-coat with Ardex, and clear again. We were thinking about it, but have also been wanting to put different tops on anyway. We're working on that now.
Yes, that's what I'm thinking. I was being careful not to add too much concrete to avoid possible cracks, but by the time I sanded it all, it was getting thin anyway. It was the first time I had ever tried this, so I didn't quite know what to expect. Next time, I'll definitely add more coats. I'll also try to find a better sealer next time.
sand them down (Wet sand) then add 3-4 new layers of feather cement...finally, 3-4 layers of impregnated sealer followed by a really good food safe poly coating.
I'm curious if putting a good quality seal on the plywood first would have prevented some of the wood swelling.
You could also opt for cement backer boar board such as Durock, which is impervious and affordable. Not quite as convenient to work with; however, you would be able to eliminate swelling without worrying about application of separate sealant.
Great video! This is just what I was looking for as I wanted to see how well it held up, so thank you for your informative and honest video! Im now a new and faithful sub! :-D
Thanks for the update!!!!
Can't wait to see what you guys decide to do next.
We're starting to run out of projects already, but we still have a small upstairs bathroom that's untouched and we gotta build some kind of railing for the stairs. We just haven't decided what to do just yet, but I'm sure I'll make some videos when we do.
Please tell us about your amazing blue refrigerator ! Did you DIY? if so how.
Thankyou for your honest appraisal & follow up. great video. excellent value. Cheers from Michael Australia.
So red-guard under would solve any issue of swelling. To take off the bee was, you can use acetone, very effective.
The refrigerator is still looking good too!
Thanks! I'm not sure I'll ever be able to go back to a plain white one again. lol
+MrDiyDork lol
Oh wow. Thanks for posting this update. I just bought some ardex, because I plan on refinishing my cultured marble vanity in my bathroom. This helps to set expectations. It won't get as much wear as a kitchen would, but I'll know to avoid the beeswax :)
Yeah, I shouldn't have tried the beeswax. I'd recommend getting the best concrete clearcoat you can as well.
Thanks for the durability update! This is really helpful!
If you miter the corners of the plywood its less likely to cause that expansion crack.
a good choice for the constriction would be plywood with hardie backer on top then ardex forta finish then you can use a two part epoxy sealer that is incredibly durable or a acrylic sealer which can be recoated easily when needed.
That sounds like a great idea! Wish I would have though of it then. I may have to give it a shot in another place some time.
+MrDiyDork unfortunately if it's not stone it will show indentations..even concrete can fall victim to pressure marks..I prefer James hardie products over durock..I was impressed with the appearance in your 3 year update video..
I find that if you seal with a gloss epoxy it completely changes the color of the countertop. It is all brown it does not even look gray like concrete anymore.
@@punchymuffin6402 so are you suggesting to use an epoxy or avoid it
@@linnerellie209 If you do not mind the color truning an ugly brown, use it. The feather finish alone is not very durable. In hindsight I should have used multiple coats of a matte/flat water based polyeurathane. I do not think it would have changed the color like the tabletop epoxy resin did. The polyeurathane would have also added durability, less than the epoxy, but at least the countertop would have looked better.
This is a graet cheap start. You can prime and put microcement over it which is the permenant producr dor this use. Its a twp part used on pools.
Looks great man, good to see they've held up so long
Thanks! They've held up pretty awesome for as little as we paid for them. I should have troweled a couple more coats of the Ardex and used a better clear coat when I first did them, but hindsight is 20/20 I guess. I'm sure we could sand them a bit, recoat and clear again, but we've been thinking about swapping them out for something else, so that's what we're going to do.
What about self leveling epoxy poured over top? Seems like that that would give a glass like finish and protect really well.
That could be pretty awesome too. I'd love to see a way to make that epoxy have a satin finish instead of the high gloss.
@@MrDiyDork You sand it to make it have a satin finish. Start with 120 and work up to 800 or 1000.
Think you could use concrete board, like I've used under ceramic tiles? Screwed down to the old counter?
I saw someone else mention that, and I think that might be able to work. It would be little harder to cut/shape than plywood, but could be pretty cool. I may have to experiment with that on a table or something to see.
They recommend using concrete board & dampen it with a sponge as the concrete bonds to the concrete board but does not bond to plywood. if you use plywood you must use a moisture barrier between the concrete & plywood. Handy dandy tip. 🤗
Thanks for the update:)
Next time think about using concrete backer board. It is used behind shower and bath walls. Will not swell.
Just saw this update and thought the same thing. Cement board, or even a couple layers of Hardie Backer might hold up better, especially since they have fiber reinforcement inside them.
I have had my ardex feather finish kitchen countertops for 3 years also and have not experienced any of the problems that you describe in your video. What kind of clear coat did you use. I can put extremely hot pans on mine with no problems. Please ad in your video that all of the nicks, dents, shallow areas can be easily fixed by sanding the finish off of the damaged countertops, reapplying the ardex and resealing.
I am a subscriber and love your videos and ideas!
If you would like the name of the sealer I used I would be happy to share..it's just not handy to find right this second!
I didn't do a lot of research when I picked up our sealer. It was the only one I found at Menards. Don't remember the brand though. You could definitely re-sand the tops a bit, re-coat with Ardex, and clear again. We were thinking about it, but have also been wanting to put different tops on anyway. We're working on that now.
What sealer did you use
SL D please share which sealer you used. Thanks
Echoing the others. @SL D--what sealer did you use?
How many coats of the feather finish
did you do
What ardex product did you use as they have heaps.
great job and video. It seems that a few more coats would have done the trick? Right? Best, John
Yes, that's what I'm thinking. I was being careful not to add too much concrete to avoid possible cracks, but by the time I sanded it all, it was getting thin anyway. It was the first time I had ever tried this, so I didn't quite know what to expect. Next time, I'll definitely add more coats. I'll also try to find a better sealer next time.
MDF would have been a much better choice than plywood. I'm surprised it lasted this long.
Do you know what you might replace them with?
Butcherblock!
Will several coats of polyurethane work to protect?
I am about to try waterbased Varathane. I will let you know how it turns out.
@@punchymuffin6402 ????
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 It protects the surface, but turns it an ugly brown color fornsome odd reason.
Tape and sealing the plywood..
looks like you got your 80$ worth 🤙
Need seal them
Look great
I would patch them up than seal it concrete seal
Thank you but I will not be using adrex. Too much wear and damage.
This product works on exterior?