These types of surfaces look really horrible and are all over the place here in India because people cannot afford anything better (otherwise they go with granite). Same goes for the "industrial" look, we're just not ready to short circuit the cycle from ugly to ugly without going to a clean look first, some of the international food chains have been doing this here. I thought you were going to put some laminate on top of the concrete! But thanks for the effort you took to create a great video.
@@meta5291 Thanks for the comment and all fair points. I would say that this type of project is exactly for the people you speak of that can't, or maybe don't want to spend a lot of money on countertops. Definitely not for everybody!
I did this on my kitchen counters 2 1/2 years ago, and still love it. A couple of pointers I learned the hard way. Sanding and even scoring my laminate was not enough for the Henry's concrete to stay adhered to my big surface areas. Most of it plopped off the I had st chisel and scrape the rest off. I used A good bonding primer on the laminate, then put on a Second textured bonding primer as well (I used Maori Eco Prim Grip). This gave the concrete an excellent surface to adhere to, and I've had no lifting). After putting on 2 coats of Henry's I did a third, settle coat that was easy to trowel and smooth. After it dried I used a concrete stain. I ordered several small sample bottles from DirectColors. I used a piece of concrete board as a sample board and played around with colors and solutions til I got what I liked. I wish I had used the penetrating sealer firsr, as the low gloss sealer I used has been worn in places, and the concrete can get stained if its not resealed quickly. I taped off my sink, and did extra sealing around it. Overall I love it, and would do it again. Note for a kitchen counter you'll probably have to pull your stove and fridge out for a couple days, and use thick plastic or paper to protect your cabinets and floors. It gets messy!
That Mapei Prim Grip is really good for many uses. I rolled it on a tile floor, after scraping out the grout, and applied another primer and coated it with Richard's porch paint and seal Crete. The floor I did without the prim grip has chipped from little things falling on floor
I highly recommend sealing these 'feather finish' concrete jobs with TWO COATS of "Thompson's WaterSeal Clear Flat Transparent Water-based Waterproofer", let dry for 24 hours, top with a Totalboat counter/table top epoxy flood coat. If you like the high gloss, just stop there, just know that all epoxy sealers will leave a lot of microscratches. If you want to avoid that problem, give it a honed finish with wet/dry sanding pads. There are tons of videos to teach you how to run through the grits. I've tried and TRIED hundreds of dollars of concrete and masonry sealers and waxes and none of them are truly stain resistant. My epoxy-coated concrete countertops look like they did the day they were finished and I tend to abuse my surfaces really bad. If you skip the Thompsons, there's a weird chemical reaction between the epoxy and the concrete that turns the concrete such a dark grey that it's almost black. Looks a lot like soap stone to me. It'll all cure and be just as durable as the other stuff, but you might end up with insanely dark counters. (I found that out the hard way.) If you've already applied failed sealers and waxes, you're still fine. Sand, wipe off to tack the dust, then carry on with the Thompson's like nothing happened. It'll still work. (Figured this out the hard way, too.) Please let my (very expensive and stressful) experience save you the same time and tears. You'll get a really beautiful result that'll last you for years of happy beauty. If you do manage to ruin it, you can just go over your project with another layer of concrete, Thompson's, and Totalboat when you feel like it. (I can only speak for Totalboat for non-yellowing and non-staining properties. If you try something cheaper and it doesn't work out, Just sand the hell out of it, and do it all over again.) And please pull the sink. It's not that hard to put back and you'll get a better result. Have some plumber's putty and caulk on hand for that job. Cheap and easy and looks pro.
Lots of detail which made it easy to follow. This is the video I was looking for. I love how it looks like tadelakt ! The hand smoothing makes the finish more interesting. Thank you!
Some unnecessarily unpleasant comments here. In contrast, I appreciate how brave you are to just do it, own it, no need to defend it. There are many people who can't or don't want to put massive amounts of money into a remodel. Not to mention all the debris accumulated going in the landfill. Congrats on a project that suits your needs.
Thank you! ~ I appreciate your kind words. I had been intrigued by the idea when I first heard of it and I think it turned out good for me. It may not be everyone and hopefully anyone that didn't like how it turned out, learned this project may not be for them.
there's so much videos out here that said concrete counters to be easy ,, than when start watching then they turn out to be an informercial for companies of products they are using it's a sham.. thank you for this video i can honestly say now I have the guts to do my small kitchen counter this way it seems easy as 1-2-3
Thank you for sharing this! It's really unfortunate to see so many negative comments on here that aren't even attempting to be constructive... kudos to you for still being kind in your responses and for doing your thing! 🙂
Thank you for the positivity! I think what most people are missing is that I've tried something I heard about and am sharing my experience, not trying to talk anyone else into it. Is it the best way to upgrade your countertop? No...but, if someone either doesn't have the money or doesn't want to spend a lot, it's an option to change the look.
Okay. Take sinks out if you do this. And please sand the countertop and use a bonding promoter. Then make the slurry very wet and thin and put pieces of thin wood or paint sticks around the countertop to allow it to level off and use cardboard and tape around the sink cutout. When pouring the material just make sure it is very wet and aloppy and do it thick, like half an inch thick at least. Then let dry and sand with 220, 400, 600, 1000, 200, 3000 and then polish with a plconcrete polisher. However you are on your own for the edges and the backsplash because you need a half inch evenly on that too. I would probably mix that hydro cement in the yellow bucket from home depot that is more like the consistency of caulking and mix it with portland at a 1:1 mixture. Then paint it on the sides and backsplash really thick. Or maybe just the thick hydro stop concrete alone. Seems everybody is looking for a way to make real countertops the easy way. Why not just paint then epoxy them? Just paint with rustolium countertop paint and then sand with 409, 600, 800, 1000 and then one more coat of paint with a good foam roller and then epoxy the dang thing real quick using vlue tape and carboard and plastic to prevent epoxy from going wverywhere but it is self leveling. I am about to just acuff my laminate with 220 and then 409 then 600 and paint it with a medium grade roller then let dry for a day and pour epoxy on after that. It is just a rental but if it tirns out good i am doing my own home the same way. But maybe with a differemt color if countertop paint. No wiers deaigns for me. I just want a nice linen color or very light brown and a thicker coat of epoxy that is crystal clear and even and no orange peel on anyghing. Hopefully i am not asking too too much.
AWESOME job! Now, what do you suggest to me for the kitchen countertops & bar top (I'm starting with the bar top!)--I'd love to add some crushed glass--but not sure how that would work (in the final layer)....Suggestions? I've seen a lot of videos where it's just set into the final layer & lightly tapped down so it's flush with the concrete.....But I don't want to ruin it! HELP ! ! ! ! Thx....Also I will have to use a food safe sealer (511 &/or Cheng brands) in that application....
I cannot tell you how much you put my mind at ease with your video. This looks to simple to do. I'm glad you mentioned food safety because I have been thinking of refinishing my kitchen countertops. No matter what, jobs that people claim takes 15 minutes or an hour always takes me 4 to 5 x that. I am just not good at this stuff no matter how much I love diy. Your countertops look beautiful. Just what I want mine to look like. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for the thoughtful and kind words! I really appreciate the feedback and I'm glad you found the video helpful. Let me share something with you...I'm just like you, it generally takes me longer than others for things like this because I'm not a 'natural' at this kind of thing. But what I do is really try to learn to do it the right way and then I take my time....and it USUALLY works out for me, lol. It seems like you've been really thinking about this so, if you decide to do it, don't put pressure on yourself to do it fast. Just know it'll take some time, it'll be messy, but it's doable. If you do end up trying it, feel free to come back and let me know how it went for you.
Thank you! So, not to make you watch another video. but I do have a 6 month update video I did which you may want to check out, which is linked at the end of this reply. At this point, this project was completed over a year ago now and I'm still very happy with it...looks like it did in that last video. I would definitely error on the side of more coats of sealant if it's a rental just because you never know how someone else would treat it. I'm pretty easy on things so I've had no problem at all and have no regret in having done it. ua-cam.com/video/7Bxac0Uedy0/v-deo.html
Love what you did. A couple years ago i did a epoxy countertop but it stains really easy and isn't efficient. I came across your video and am thinking about doing this over my epoxy. Do you think it will work? Thanks again. Definitely subscribing!
Thank you! That's an interesting question...my first thought is that I would only try that if I was okay to end up buying a new one if it didn't work, because I think there's a high risk that it won't. I think my concerns with this are that you'd really have to scratch the surface well to get the concrete to attach. Also not sure that this type of concrete has enough strength to keep from cracking...and then finally, you would really have to keep up on resealing every so often. The more I think about this, I probably would not try it myself....but if you do, I'd love to hear it how it went for you!
Videos like this give people who are researching ideas for their counter tops good feedback and "you try if first" advice. I think this is a masculine/industrial look. Can it be painted before or after the seal with concrete stain or paint? I think continuing with the trowel would have given a more smooth, poured look. But textured is okay. I definitely would have put on a trim against mirror and caulked the rest of edges and around sink to smooth out the too rough look. Thanks for the video.
Great comment~thanks for sharing your thoughts. I agree with the industrial look that you mentioned and that's what I was going for, very neutral, but that's what I like. I know that some people have done an acid stain to give it some color that has looked good. As far as the trowel, I tried it, but really couldn't get a mixture that it worked well with this type of concrete, so I gave up on it. Now to your point, the edges is where I definitely wish I had a 'do-over'; my plan was to use caulking, and I actually did and thought it looked terrible (tried white and 2 or 3 different concrete colored caulking and none looked good so I removed it)...the video was getting on the long side so I didn't put the caulking trials in it since I ultimately didn't use it. When you're not examining it really closely, the edges don't look too bad, but it's definitely not the neatest job, so I agree. And thanks for understanding the purpose of the video is to show someone else what I did to help them make the decision if it's something they want to try, not trying to talk someone into do it.
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve been running through videos in the past week and it made me afraid to go through with doing my own countertops. Your video has given me the confidence to complete my kitchen counter tops. Thanks again.
I highly recommend sealing these 'feather finish' concrete jobs with TWO COATS of "Thompson's WaterSeal Clear Flat Transparent Water-based Waterproofer", let dry for 24 hours, top with a Totalboat counter/table top epoxy flood coat. If you like the high gloss, just stop there, just know that all epoxy sealers will leave a lot of microscratches. If you want to avoid that problem, give it a honed finish with wet/dry sanding pads. There are tons of videos to teach you how to run through the grits. I've tried and TRIED hundreds of dollars of concrete and masonry sealers and waxes and none of them are truly stain resistant. My epoxy-coated concrete countertops look like they did the day they were finished and I tend to abuse my surfaces *really* bad. If you skip the Thompsons, there's a weird chemical reaction between the epoxy and the concrete that turns the concrete such a dark grey that it's almost black. Looks a lot like soapstone to me, but without the soft white veining to soften the look. It'll cure fine and be just as durable as the other stuff, but you might end up with insanely dark counters. (I found that out the hard way.) If you've already applied failed sealers and waxes, you're still fine. Sand, wipe off to tack the dust, then carry on with the 2 coats of Thompson's like nothing happened. It'll still work. (Figured this out the hard way, too.) *Please let my (very expensive and stressful) experience save you the same time and tears. You'll get a really beautiful result that'll last you for years of happy beauty. If you do manage to ruin it, you can just go over your project with another layer of concrete, Thompson's, and Totalboat when you feel like it.* I can only speak for Totalboat for non-yellowing and non-staining properties. If you try something cheaper and it doesn't work out, just sand the hell out of it, and do it all over again right over the ruined stuff. As long as everything has a full month to fully cure, it'll still work. (You guessed it... my bad.) And please pull the sink. It's not that hard to put back and you'll get a better result. Have some plumber's putty, caulk, and teflon tape on hand for that job. Watch 3-4 videos so you don't do something like wrap the teflon the wrong way and you'll be fine. It's cheap and easy and looks pro. You'll love yourself for taking that little bit of time. I see too many of these videos and my heart breaks for what's coming.
My countertops came out pretty cool. I used about 5 coats of Cheng Concrete Sealer (it’s a food grade top coat from Amazon) the 1st and 2nd coat basically soaked into the cement but it worked out fine. Thanks again for your help.
That is a good question! I don't know and would want to try over a small area first, but the sealant that I used is so easy to apply that I *think* it could work without coming up. If you end of trying it, let me know how it goes!
This is great! I hope nothing went terribly wrong and that's why you weren't on for so long. This channel is right up my alley. Currently I'm helping my mom enclose a car port. We're almost finished
Thanks Flimsy~so great to hear from you! I actually had you pegged as someone in the community who might enjoy this type of channel---might have to do a 'How To Smoke on the Grill' with you as a guest host, lol. That's awesome that you're taking on a project like with your mom, I'm very impressed! I'm all good...just was super busy and maybe a little burned out.
@@FlimsyIndo Thank you~and I'm glad you're still out there! I could make a video on how to make a YT vid..at I would just have to qualify it that it may not be the most technically perfect kind! LOL
I’m wanting to do this over my tile counter in my bathroom, I’m just wanting to create a smooth surface so I can paint it. Would I need to seal the concrete before painting? I think this was awesome and not so overwhelming like some other videos I have watched. I appreciate any tips!
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback! And you're project sounds interesting...I'm thinking you're trying to use concrete over tile to fill in the grout lines in order to smooth it out, right? I've never done that, but think it could work out really nice, just might need a little more concrete.. As to your question, I would say you probably wouldn't need to seal the concrete before you painted it; I would just use a concrete primer first. Then paint it....and then seal it. Hope it works out well for you...feel free to keep me posted!
Does the concrete finish so well with full moisture/regular water?? My bathroom counter includes the sink.. meaning id have to concrete the counter & the entire inside of the sink if I wanted to do the counter.
What I heard was a lot of coats being applied. I do like the final look though but, hopefully I can find something a little less time consuming. Thank you for sharing 😊
I'll subscribe.... Wonder what you think the total thickness was. And would it adhere to a wood countertop for kitchen. My experience in concrete is backgrounded in pouring real concrete. Concrete without aggregate is usually weaker, easily cracked. So skimming with Henry brand must have some other type of bonding agent to assist in strength. Most videos pertaining to concrete countertop projects are pouring on a thicker base of about 1½" to 2" thick. Not condemning your project at all. Just trying to figure out my own best course of action that would produce the best end result.
Hi Gene, sorry for the delay in my response...it's been a busy beginning of the year! It's a great question, I can't say exactly, but I would guess anywhere from an 1/8 to maybe a 1/4" with the coats I put on and the minimal sanding I did. I was skeptical on the strength, especially on the edges but it's held up really well (I'm planning to do a 6 mon. follow up video hopefully in the next week or so). Honestly, I'm sure pouring it would be the best for look and strength, but I was going for a cost-effective way to improve the look of my countertop while willing to replace the whole thing if it turned out bad. I like it the look personally (much better than the laminate), but it's not a standard, consistent look that you would get from poured (which some people don't like and then do other things to give it a more exciting look, so personal preference I guess). As far as the strength, I don't know if this will help, but here's what's in the Henry's mix per the SDS: Calcium aluminate cement Limestone Vinyl acetate copolymer (maybe this is where the strength comes from???) Calcium sulfate Cellulose Portland cement Crystalline silica, quartz Feel free to keep me updated on what you decide to do!
@How To with Kevin thanks for answering. Still not involved in project yet. My wife has become more vocal about proceeding with a finished wood countertop. I'm a quasi-woodworker, with enuf experience to know wood moves with atmospheric moisture...so I guess we're going down that rabbit hole. Thanks again!
@@genesloan3175 Sure thing! Going with wood seems to be in your wheelhouse and I'm sure it'll look great....and if your wife is all for it, then that's probably what you should do, lol. Best of luck!
There are some DIY-ers who combined another kind of compound with the leveling concrete instead of water, if you hunt about. I’d wondered about the same question, particularly as I’m interested in doing a kitchen counter that’ll see more weight/action than that of a bathroom. As you’re experienced in concrete, what would you recommend be combined with the Henry product?
I'm thinking of doing this is my kitchen. Is the concrete heat resistant? Like, can I take something out of the over and put it straight on the counter?
Great question~obviously mine being in the bathroom hasn't led me to try this. I did a quick search and couldn't find anything so you may want to contact the company directly (contact info. below). The concrete I think would be fine, but not sure if a thin layer would be more susceptible to damage. And then also would have to consider the sealant. Here's some info to reach Ardex/Henry's: ARDEX Americas 400 Ardex Park Drive Aliquippa, PA 15001 USA 724-203-5000 888-512-7339 www.ardexamericas.com
Thank you for the taking the time to comment! It took me awhile to finally take the leap to do it; but I'm glad I did it. And it's holding up great so far.
Great question; I planned to use a thin line of silicone type of caulk around the sinks, however, even after trying different concrete/gray colors and also white to match the sinks, they just didn't look good, so I removed them. Since the video was already getting long and because I ultimately didn't use them, I just left that part out of the video. I didn't use any bonding agents and just used the sealers I mentioned in the video; I haven't had any problems with any wear to the countertop at all.
Good question Anita...I don't know as I've never tried it. Just thinking about it, it may possibly work better if the concrete is fairly smooth, but not sealed. If there's sealant on it, it would most likely have to be roughed. Again, I don't know...just brainstorming with you. If you end of trying it, let me know how it goes!
Thanks for sharing that info! I did consider doing that for this project when learning about how to do this, but wasn't sure how it would turn out since I was looking to keep it neutral. Are there any specific types of stains that you would recommend?
So glad you found it and I appreciate you taking the time to let you me know you enjoyed the video! Good luck on trying the project and definitely feel free to let me know how it works for you. I'm planning on doing a follow up video sometime soon on this video.
Thanks for the question~I have to say that the High Gloss has protected the concrete well from water stains, which is what I was most worried about, so in that way I was happy with it. But I am partial to the more natural look of the 511 Impregnator...if you were really looking for the concrete look, I would go with that. So I think it comes down to if you want the look or the durability. However, there is another option from Miracle Sealants to consider, a Matte version of the High Gloss sealer, which might offer a compromise, but I didn't test that one (I would've had to order it) : www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/miracle-sealants/color-enhance/finish-sealer-matte
Hey I love what you did with your countertops using the concrete. And I've seen several videos on this and yours is by far The Best! I've Saved your video as I plan to do this to my Kitchen counter tops but now after watching you do your bathroom, I'm thinking I'll do in my bathroom too! Thanks so much for sharing this with us!
Thank you so much for the feedback~I really appreciate the kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video; as I was doing a thorough cleaning for the holidays, I took some video of the countertop, which it's now been about 6 months ago since I did the project, so I figured I would do a quick follow up video so everyone can see how it's held up...and spoiler alert: it's held up pretty good. Good luck on your project and definitely feel free to let me know how it goes once you get into it. For me, I think doing the bathroom first was better in that I didn't feel the pressure of ruining the much bigger countertop in the kitchen if it didn't go well. But luckily it turned out really well, at least I think so 😊
Not a silly question...some people do! Others will use acid stains. Full disclosure, I've not done either, but the acid stain looks really nice...you may want to look more into that.
I used 60 just to know any obvious high spots and then 120, so nothing too fine. Probably could use finer grit sandpaper after you smooth it out with the coarser grit, but I didn't think it needed it. The key thing to remember is that this type of concrete can be sanded easily so you don't want to over-sand it.
Thanks for the feedback! I watched a lot of other videos on this myself and was really hoping I could make one that would be easy to follow and helpful to others.
For the first coat, I waited until it was completely dry which was by the next morning. As time went on, I used fans and it dried quicker, to the point where you can do a couple of coats/day.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback on the gloves...I think that was the best thing I discovered. Feel free to let me know how it turns out when you're all finished....best of luck!!
Good point...although many people often use the terms concrete and cement interchangeably (obviously guilty myself) they are not technically the same as feather finish is a Portland cement-based skimcoat. And cement in general is just one component of concrete.
I would have taped off the wall, light switch, mirror and SINKS and the pan sealed with caulk afterward. Good luck ever removing those sinks. Otherwise looks nice.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts...all good ones. I've mentioned in some other comments I tried caulk but it looked terrible (I used white and I think 3 different concrete colored caulking that just didn't match well) so I removed it and put one more coat of concrete to finish it off and brought up to the sink edge (left the caulking part out of the video since I ultimately didn't use it and the video was getting long). I have to say that as I went into the project, I was willing to replace the countertop and sinks if it turned out bad, so I wasn't worried about removing the sinks....but you're absolutely right about removing the sinks in the future being a problem. The caulking issue also affected the result along the walls and that caused that part to look a little sloppy. At some point, I'll try to clean it up and post another update, but since it really doesn't look that bad when you're not right up against it, I haven't jumped on that.
WOW... What a fantastic finish for people with low standards! I'm so glad that is in your house and not mine.... now back to videos on micro cement/professional finishes....
Oh my goodness! And I thought women were the petty, nit picking, hateful ones. After reading these comments it turns out the guys are actually the ones threatened by one another’s talents and can’t be proud of each other. 🤣🤣
These lines around the edges, like along the back wall, under the mirror and sink, aren't clean at all... you probably should have sanded these for a clean smooth surface. There is so much you can do with concrete and this seems really lazy to pour slate gray concrete in your bathroom without any sort of design.
I agree with you along the lines; the mistake I made was trying to put a caulk on that ended up not looking good and it was almost impossible to remove so I did what I could to clean it up as best as I could; I cut that part out of the video because it was already getting too long. However, the look of the concrete is exactly what I wanted, although you are correct in that there are things you can do to add to it..
It looks good except the sinks should have been removed first. It’s easy to do if you watch tutorials online. The finish looks sloppy coming up to the edge of the sink basin when we very where else the finish looks good. Best to go the extra mile to make it look professional.
Thanks for the feedback...I agree with you. My intent was to use caulking and that turned out terrible (tried white and various concrete colored caulking), so I removed it and put on one more coat. The video was getting long so I left that part out since I ultimately didn't use it. Overall, I still like it, but I agree it could've had a more finished look.
Why would you put concrete over a laminate, pressed wood counter? The reason behind concrete countertops is the longevity and durability for the cost, this defeats the whole purpose.
I did this purely for the cosmetic effect. Having watched other videos, I liked the look so I gave it a try, willing to just tear it out and put a new countertop in if I had to. To your point, if this were a bathroom with a lot of traffic with a lot of wear and tear on it, this probably wouldn't be a great option. I just put out a 6 month update video and overall it's held up pretty well.
Not everyone can afford $3,000 for a small piece of granite countertop. This is a cost effective solution for those who appreciate nice things on a budget.
Layers? No man. Gloves instead of trowel? Lmao No. Dude just tack up a form around the entire countertop and put a small bead of caulk in every corner. Mix self leveling concrete and pour. Wait 2 hrs and take forms off. Tah-dah concrete countertop. Perfect for someone who wants to feel like they're in jail everytime they take a shit or brush their teeth.
No need to be sorry, it's not for everyone! I think it looks better in person without the angle and lighting for recording it. I went into the project just to try it because it was cheap and was ready to just tear it out and put in a new countertop if I didn't like it, but I actually thinks it looks a lot better than what I had before. Just putting together a 6 month update on this and during it, I showed a part of it in natural light.
Thanks so much for watching---please LIKE, SUBSCRIBE and SHARE! How do you think this project turned out? Is it something you’re considering doing?
looks like crap
that is a hard no
These types of surfaces look really horrible and are all over the place here in India because people cannot afford anything better (otherwise they go with granite). Same goes for the "industrial" look, we're just not ready to short circuit the cycle from ugly to ugly without going to a clean look first, some of the international food chains have been doing this here.
I thought you were going to put some laminate on top of the concrete!
But thanks for the effort you took to create a great video.
@@meta5291 Thanks for the comment and all fair points. I would say that this type of project is exactly for the people you speak of that can't, or maybe don't want to spend a lot of money on countertops. Definitely not for everybody!
I am trying this but my layers do not dry…did u have layers completely pail in color before u did any next layers?
I love this! Ty for the video, going to do it to my old counter🤗
I did this on my kitchen counters 2 1/2 years ago, and still love it. A couple of pointers I learned the hard way. Sanding and even scoring my laminate was not enough for the Henry's concrete to stay adhered to my big surface areas. Most of it plopped off the I had st chisel and scrape the rest off. I used A good bonding primer on the laminate, then put on a Second textured bonding primer as well (I used Maori Eco Prim Grip). This gave the concrete an excellent surface to adhere to, and I've had no lifting). After putting on 2 coats of Henry's I did a third, settle coat that was easy to trowel and smooth. After it dried I used a concrete stain. I ordered several small sample bottles from DirectColors. I used a piece of concrete board as a sample board and played around with colors and solutions til I got what I liked. I wish I had used the penetrating sealer firsr, as the low gloss sealer I used has been worn in places, and the concrete can get stained if its not resealed quickly. I taped off my sink, and did extra sealing around it. Overall I love it, and would do it again. Note for a kitchen counter you'll probably have to pull your stove and fridge out for a couple days, and use thick plastic or paper to protect your cabinets and floors. It gets messy!
That Mapei Prim Grip is really good for many uses. I rolled it on a tile floor, after scraping out the grout, and applied another primer and coated it with Richard's porch paint and seal Crete. The floor I did without the prim grip has chipped from little things falling on floor
I love it. So simple that it put my mind at ease. $50 budget sounds better than $3,000-4,000 for a tiny piece of granite.
I highly recommend sealing these 'feather finish' concrete jobs with TWO COATS of "Thompson's WaterSeal Clear Flat Transparent Water-based Waterproofer", let dry for 24 hours, top with a Totalboat counter/table top epoxy flood coat. If you like the high gloss, just stop there, just know that all epoxy sealers will leave a lot of microscratches. If you want to avoid that problem, give it a honed finish with wet/dry sanding pads. There are tons of videos to teach you how to run through the grits.
I've tried and TRIED hundreds of dollars of concrete and masonry sealers and waxes and none of them are truly stain resistant. My epoxy-coated concrete countertops look like they did the day they were finished and I tend to abuse my surfaces really bad.
If you skip the Thompsons, there's a weird chemical reaction between the epoxy and the concrete that turns the concrete such a dark grey that it's almost black. Looks a lot like soap stone to me. It'll all cure and be just as durable as the other stuff, but you might end up with insanely dark counters. (I found that out the hard way.)
If you've already applied failed sealers and waxes, you're still fine. Sand, wipe off to tack the dust, then carry on with the Thompson's like nothing happened. It'll still work. (Figured this out the hard way, too.)
Please let my (very expensive and stressful) experience save you the same time and tears. You'll get a really beautiful result that'll last you for years of happy beauty. If you do manage to ruin it, you can just go over your project with another layer of concrete, Thompson's, and Totalboat when you feel like it.
(I can only speak for Totalboat for non-yellowing and non-staining properties. If you try something cheaper and it doesn't work out, Just sand the hell out of it, and do it all over again.)
And please pull the sink. It's not that hard to put back and you'll get a better result. Have some plumber's putty and caulk on hand for that job. Cheap and easy and looks pro.
I have laminate with damaged back, I am seriously thinking of doing concrete counter. Have floor and tub/walls being done professionally.
Lots of detail which made it easy to follow. This is the video I was looking for. I love how it looks like tadelakt ! The hand smoothing makes the finish more interesting. Thank you!
Some unnecessarily unpleasant comments here. In contrast, I appreciate how brave you are to just do it, own it, no need to defend it. There are many people who can't or don't want to put massive amounts of money into a remodel. Not to mention all the debris accumulated going in the landfill. Congrats on a project that suits your needs.
Thank you! ~ I appreciate your kind words. I had been intrigued by the idea when I first heard of it and I think it turned out good for me. It may not be everyone and hopefully anyone that didn't like how it turned out, learned this project may not be for them.
The naysayers probably own granite stores and specialize in remodels and are concerned about people finding cost effective solutions and diy’s.
@@aprilleak4356 Bingo!
there's so much videos out here that said concrete counters to be easy ,, than when start watching then they turn out to be an informercial for companies of products they are using it's a sham..
thank you for this video i can honestly say now I have the guts to do my small kitchen counter this way it seems easy as 1-2-3
Thank you for sharing this! It's really unfortunate to see so many negative comments on here that aren't even attempting to be constructive... kudos to you for still being kind in your responses and for doing your thing! 🙂
Thank you for the positivity! I think what most people are missing is that I've tried something I heard about and am sharing my experience, not trying to talk anyone else into it. Is it the best way to upgrade your countertop? No...but, if someone either doesn't have the money or doesn't want to spend a lot, it's an option to change the look.
Okay. Take sinks out if you do this. And please sand the countertop and use a bonding promoter. Then make the slurry very wet and thin and put pieces of thin wood or paint sticks around the countertop to allow it to level off and use cardboard and tape around the sink cutout. When pouring the material just make sure it is very wet and aloppy and do it thick, like half an inch thick at least. Then let dry and sand with 220, 400, 600, 1000, 200, 3000 and then polish with a plconcrete polisher. However you are on your own for the edges and the backsplash because you need a half inch evenly on that too. I would probably mix that hydro cement in the yellow bucket from home depot that is more like the consistency of caulking and mix it with portland at a 1:1 mixture. Then paint it on the sides and backsplash really thick. Or maybe just the thick hydro stop concrete alone.
Seems everybody is looking for a way to make real countertops the easy way. Why not just paint then epoxy them? Just paint with rustolium countertop paint and then sand with 409, 600, 800, 1000 and then one more coat of paint with a good foam roller and then epoxy the dang thing real quick using vlue tape and carboard and plastic to prevent epoxy from going wverywhere but it is self leveling.
I am about to just acuff my laminate with 220 and then 409 then 600 and paint it with a medium grade roller then let dry for a day and pour epoxy on after that. It is just a rental but if it tirns out good i am doing my own home the same way. But maybe with a differemt color if countertop paint. No wiers deaigns for me. I just want a nice linen color or very light brown and a thicker coat of epoxy that is crystal clear and even and no orange peel on anyghing. Hopefully i am not asking too too much.
AWESOME job! Now, what do you suggest to me for the kitchen countertops & bar top (I'm starting with the bar top!)--I'd love to add some crushed glass--but not sure how that would work (in the final layer)....Suggestions? I've seen a lot of videos where it's just set into the final layer & lightly tapped down so it's flush with the concrete.....But I don't want to ruin it! HELP ! ! ! ! Thx....Also I will have to use a food safe sealer (511 &/or Cheng brands) in that application....
I've watched tonnes of videos on concrete resurfacing and this is another great one-thanks for your hard work!
It's a great solution and easy on the wallet and labor. I probably would like a matte final finish, but yours looks great also.
Spartan as long as a sealer 3M stain resistance...
I cannot tell you how much you put my mind at ease with your video. This looks to simple to do. I'm glad you mentioned food safety because I have been thinking of refinishing my kitchen countertops. No matter what, jobs that people claim takes 15 minutes or an hour always takes me 4 to 5 x that. I am just not good at this stuff no matter how much I love diy.
Your countertops look beautiful. Just what I want mine to look like. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for the thoughtful and kind words! I really appreciate the feedback and I'm glad you found the video helpful. Let me share something with you...I'm just like you, it generally takes me longer than others for things like this because I'm not a 'natural' at this kind of thing. But what I do is really try to learn to do it the right way and then I take my time....and it USUALLY works out for me, lol. It seems like you've been really thinking about this so, if you decide to do it, don't put pressure on yourself to do it fast. Just know it'll take some time, it'll be messy, but it's doable. If you do end up trying it, feel free to come back and let me know how it went for you.
Yes it looks really good. I’m wanting to do my kitchen counters. But I would like white concrete.
I am so glad I found this video! I love the idea of using my hands so much. Going to start on my kitchen today!
Awesome~glad you found it, too! Best of luck and feel free to come back and let me know how it turned out!
What sealer did you end up going with?
Great video! How’s it doing 7 months later? Considering this in a rental
Thank you! So, not to make you watch another video. but I do have a 6 month update video I did which you may want to check out, which is linked at the end of this reply. At this point, this project was completed over a year ago now and I'm still very happy with it...looks like it did in that last video. I would definitely error on the side of more coats of sealant if it's a rental just because you never know how someone else would treat it. I'm pretty easy on things so I've had no problem at all and have no regret in having done it.
ua-cam.com/video/7Bxac0Uedy0/v-deo.html
Love what you did. A couple years ago i did a epoxy countertop but it stains really easy and isn't efficient. I came across your video and am thinking about doing this over my epoxy. Do you think it will work? Thanks again. Definitely subscribing!
Just sand and attack or lay as long grout has something to grip onto...🤔✌️💪☯️☝️
You’re awesome!) Love your positive, friendly vibe with getter done and help others also to learn from that 🙌🏽
Hi this is amazing do you think The same could be done for an old bathtub?
Thank you! That's an interesting question...my first thought is that I would only try that if I was okay to end up buying a new one if it didn't work, because I think there's a high risk that it won't. I think my concerns with this are that you'd really have to scratch the surface well to get the concrete to attach. Also not sure that this type of concrete has enough strength to keep from cracking...and then finally, you would really have to keep up on resealing every so often. The more I think about this, I probably would not try it myself....but if you do, I'd love to hear it how it went for you!
Great video!!!! I will be doing this in my kitchen in the spring...it looks fantastic!!
Thank you! Really appreciate the feedback Valerie...feel free to come back and let me know how it went for you!!
Videos like this give people who are researching ideas for their counter tops good feedback and "you try if first" advice.
I think this is a masculine/industrial look.
Can it be painted before or after the seal with concrete stain or paint? I think continuing with the trowel would have given a more smooth, poured look. But textured is okay. I definitely would have put on a trim against mirror and caulked the rest of edges and around sink to smooth out the too rough look.
Thanks for the video.
Great comment~thanks for sharing your thoughts. I agree with the industrial look that you mentioned and that's what I was going for, very neutral, but that's what I like. I know that some people have done an acid stain to give it some color that has looked good. As far as the trowel, I tried it, but really couldn't get a mixture that it worked well with this type of concrete, so I gave up on it. Now to your point, the edges is where I definitely wish I had a 'do-over'; my plan was to use caulking, and I actually did and thought it looked terrible (tried white and 2 or 3 different concrete colored caulking and none looked good so I removed it)...the video was getting on the long side so I didn't put the caulking trials in it since I ultimately didn't use it. When you're not examining it really closely, the edges don't look too bad, but it's definitely not the neatest job, so I agree. And thanks for understanding the purpose of the video is to show someone else what I did to help them make the decision if it's something they want to try, not trying to talk someone into do it.
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve been running through videos in the past week and it made me afraid to go through with doing my own countertops. Your video has given me the confidence to complete my kitchen counter tops. Thanks again.
I highly recommend sealing these 'feather finish' concrete jobs with TWO COATS of "Thompson's WaterSeal Clear Flat Transparent Water-based Waterproofer", let dry for 24 hours, top with a Totalboat counter/table top epoxy flood coat. If you like the high gloss, just stop there, just know that all epoxy sealers will leave a lot of microscratches. If you want to avoid that problem, give it a honed finish with wet/dry sanding pads. There are tons of videos to teach you how to run through the grits.
I've tried and TRIED hundreds of dollars of concrete and masonry sealers and waxes and none of them are truly stain resistant. My epoxy-coated concrete countertops look like they did the day they were finished and I tend to abuse my surfaces *really* bad.
If you skip the Thompsons, there's a weird chemical reaction between the epoxy and the concrete that turns the concrete such a dark grey that it's almost black. Looks a lot like soapstone to me, but without the soft white veining to soften the look. It'll cure fine and be just as durable as the other stuff, but you might end up with insanely dark counters. (I found that out the hard way.)
If you've already applied failed sealers and waxes, you're still fine. Sand, wipe off to tack the dust, then carry on with the 2 coats of Thompson's like nothing happened. It'll still work. (Figured this out the hard way, too.)
*Please let my (very expensive and stressful) experience save you the same time and tears. You'll get a really beautiful result that'll last you for years of happy beauty. If you do manage to ruin it, you can just go over your project with another layer of concrete, Thompson's, and Totalboat when you feel like it.*
I can only speak for Totalboat for non-yellowing and non-staining properties. If you try something cheaper and it doesn't work out, just sand the hell out of it, and do it all over again right over the ruined stuff. As long as everything has a full month to fully cure, it'll still work. (You guessed it... my bad.)
And please pull the sink. It's not that hard to put back and you'll get a better result. Have some plumber's putty, caulk, and teflon tape on hand for that job. Watch 3-4 videos so you don't do something like wrap the teflon the wrong way and you'll be fine. It's cheap and easy and looks pro. You'll love yourself for taking that little bit of time.
I see too many of these videos and my heart breaks for what's coming.
My countertops came out pretty cool. I used about 5 coats of Cheng Concrete Sealer (it’s a food grade top coat from Amazon) the 1st and 2nd coat basically soaked into the cement but it worked out fine.
Thanks again for your help.
Do you think that dry brushing chalk paint over it before sealing would work? Or would the chalk paint come up during sealing?
That is a good question! I don't know and would want to try over a small area first, but the sealant that I used is so easy to apply that I *think* it could work without coming up. If you end of trying it, let me know how it goes!
This is great! I hope nothing went terribly wrong and that's why you weren't on for so long. This channel is right up my alley. Currently I'm helping my mom enclose a car port. We're almost finished
Thanks Flimsy~so great to hear from you! I actually had you pegged as someone in the community who might enjoy this type of channel---might have to do a 'How To Smoke on the Grill' with you as a guest host, lol. That's awesome that you're taking on a project like with your mom, I'm very impressed! I'm all good...just was super busy and maybe a little burned out.
@@HowTowithKevin lol! Making videos is hard work. Maybe that could be a video on this new channel, how to make a UA-cam video. 😂! I'm glad your back!
@@FlimsyIndo Thank you~and I'm glad you're still out there! I could make a video on how to make a YT vid..at I would just have to qualify it that it may not be the most technically perfect kind! LOL
@@HowTowithKevin that's fine, but only if you wanted to.
I’m wanting to do this over my tile counter in my bathroom, I’m just wanting to create a smooth surface so I can paint it. Would I need to seal the concrete before painting? I think this was awesome and not so overwhelming like some other videos I have watched. I appreciate any tips!
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback! And you're project sounds interesting...I'm thinking you're trying to use concrete over tile to fill in the grout lines in order to smooth it out, right? I've never done that, but think it could work out really nice, just might need a little more concrete.. As to your question, I would say you probably wouldn't need to seal the concrete before you painted it; I would just use a concrete primer first. Then paint it....and then seal it. Hope it works out well for you...feel free to keep me posted!
Does the concrete finish so well with full moisture/regular water?? My bathroom counter includes the sink.. meaning id have to concrete the counter & the entire inside of the sink if I wanted to do the counter.
How’s it holding up after a year
Love it. Thank you. Very much considering doing this to my kitchen countertops.
Good call on the sanding. What is the point when you're putting multiple layers anyway? +1 from me...
What I heard was a lot of coats being applied. I do like the final look though but, hopefully I can find something a little less time consuming. Thank you for sharing 😊
I'll subscribe....
Wonder what you think the total thickness was. And would it adhere to a wood countertop for kitchen. My experience in concrete is backgrounded in pouring real concrete. Concrete without aggregate is usually weaker, easily cracked. So skimming with Henry brand must have some other type of bonding agent to assist in strength. Most videos pertaining to concrete countertop projects are pouring on a thicker base of about 1½" to 2" thick. Not condemning your project at all. Just trying to figure out my own best course of action that would produce the best end result.
Hi Gene, sorry for the delay in my response...it's been a busy beginning of the year! It's a great question, I can't say exactly, but I would guess anywhere from an 1/8 to maybe a 1/4" with the coats I put on and the minimal sanding I did. I was skeptical on the strength, especially on the edges but it's held up really well (I'm planning to do a 6 mon. follow up video hopefully in the next week or so). Honestly, I'm sure pouring it would be the best for look and strength, but I was going for a cost-effective way to improve the look of my countertop while willing to replace the whole thing if it turned out bad. I like it the look personally (much better than the laminate), but it's not a standard, consistent look that you would get from poured (which some people don't like and then do other things to give it a more exciting look, so personal preference I guess). As far as the strength, I don't know if this will help, but here's what's in the Henry's mix per the SDS:
Calcium aluminate cement
Limestone
Vinyl acetate copolymer (maybe this is where the strength comes from???)
Calcium sulfate
Cellulose
Portland cement
Crystalline silica, quartz
Feel free to keep me updated on what you decide to do!
@How To with Kevin thanks for answering. Still not involved in project yet. My wife has become more vocal about proceeding with a finished wood countertop. I'm a quasi-woodworker, with enuf experience to know wood moves with atmospheric moisture...so I guess we're going down that rabbit hole. Thanks again!
@@genesloan3175 Sure thing! Going with wood seems to be in your wheelhouse and I'm sure it'll look great....and if your wife is all for it, then that's probably what you should do, lol. Best of luck!
There are some DIY-ers who combined another kind of compound with the leveling concrete instead of water, if you hunt about. I’d wondered about the same question, particularly as I’m interested in doing a kitchen counter that’ll see more weight/action than that of a bathroom.
As you’re experienced in concrete, what would you recommend be combined with the Henry product?
Maybe I missed it, but did he (you) sand again after your last coat by hand?
Thanks for the video! I'm considering this project for my bathroom.
Thank you! If you decide to try it, best of luck and feel free to let me know how it goes.
I'm thinking of doing this is my kitchen. Is the concrete heat resistant? Like, can I take something out of the over and put it straight on the counter?
Great question~obviously mine being in the bathroom hasn't led me to try this. I did a quick search and couldn't find anything so you may want to contact the company directly (contact info. below). The concrete I think would be fine, but not sure if a thin layer would be more susceptible to damage. And then also would have to consider the sealant. Here's some info to reach Ardex/Henry's:
ARDEX Americas
400 Ardex Park Drive
Aliquippa, PA 15001 USA
724-203-5000
888-512-7339
www.ardexamericas.com
what kind of person would take hot items of any kind and set them directly on a countertop?
Glad I saw this, thank you. Tackling countertop and your tips w comment tips I might just try this🎉.
Hi ! Thanks for sharing your diy! Would this technique work on a shower wall and would it stay on?
I like it. I am surprised at how this worked out and it is realatively inexpensive. thank you.
Thank you for the taking the time to comment! It took me awhile to finally take the leap to do it; but I'm glad I did it. And it's holding up great so far.
Why didn’t you hit the sinks for consistency? Did you use bonding agent? Thanks for video!
Great question; I planned to use a thin line of silicone type of caulk around the sinks, however, even after trying different concrete/gray colors and also white to match the sinks, they just didn't look good, so I removed them. Since the video was already getting long and because I ultimately didn't use them, I just left that part out of the video. I didn't use any bonding agents and just used the sealers I mentioned in the video; I haven't had any problems with any wear to the countertop at all.
I need a bathroom or kitchen to do this in!!
If you find one, best of luck!! And if you do try it at some point, I'd love to hear how it went for you 😊
Love the look and the realistic info! 🤗
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback 😊
How’d it hold up?
Can you apply vinyl wrap on top of the concrete
Good question Anita...I don't know as I've never tried it. Just thinking about it, it may possibly work better if the concrete is fairly smooth, but not sealed. If there's sealant on it, it would most likely have to be roughed. Again, I don't know...just brainstorming with you. If you end of trying it, let me know how it goes!
Very informative video. It looks great. I love your new channel.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate you checking it out 😊
You can use some different stains to give it more depth
Thanks for sharing that info! I did consider doing that for this project when learning about how to do this, but wasn't sure how it would turn out since I was looking to keep it neutral. Are there any specific types of stains that you would recommend?
Just found your Channel and I really enjoyed this video I definitely plan on trying this technique with the concrete
So glad you found it and I appreciate you taking the time to let you me know you enjoyed the video! Good luck on trying the project and definitely feel free to let me know how it works for you. I'm planning on doing a follow up video sometime soon on this video.
Would you suggest just using one sealant in the end
Thanks for the question~I have to say that the High Gloss has protected the concrete well from water stains, which is what I was most worried about, so in that way I was happy with it. But I am partial to the more natural look of the 511 Impregnator...if you were really looking for the concrete look, I would go with that. So I think it comes down to if you want the look or the durability. However, there is another option from Miracle Sealants to consider, a Matte version of the High Gloss sealer, which might offer a compromise, but I didn't test that one (I would've had to order it) : www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/miracle-sealants/color-enhance/finish-sealer-matte
Hey I love what you did with your countertops using the concrete. And I've seen several videos on this and yours is by far The Best! I've Saved your video as I plan to do this to my Kitchen counter tops but now after watching you do your bathroom, I'm thinking I'll do in my bathroom too! Thanks so much for sharing this with us!
Thank you so much for the feedback~I really appreciate the kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video; as I was doing a thorough cleaning for the holidays, I took some video of the countertop, which it's now been about 6 months ago since I did the project, so I figured I would do a quick follow up video so everyone can see how it's held up...and spoiler alert: it's held up pretty good. Good luck on your project and definitely feel free to let me know how it goes once you get into it. For me, I think doing the bathroom first was better in that I didn't feel the pressure of ruining the much bigger countertop in the kitchen if it didn't go well. But luckily it turned out really well, at least I think so 😊
How did you address the sides of the countertop?
Silly question... Can I paint over the concrete?
Not a silly question...some people do! Others will use acid stains. Full disclosure, I've not done either, but the acid stain looks really nice...you may want to look more into that.
Thank you, love it!
Love the idea of using your hands. easier on my curved edges by far.
What grit sandpaper did you use
I used 60 just to know any obvious high spots and then 120, so nothing too fine. Probably could use finer grit sandpaper after you smooth it out with the coarser grit, but I didn't think it needed it. The key thing to remember is that this type of concrete can be sanded easily so you don't want to over-sand it.
I like it.It looks easy to do compare to other video.
Thanks for the feedback! I watched a lot of other videos on this myself and was really hoping I could make one that would be easy to follow and helpful to others.
Thanks this is great!
Watch tou tuber Jesse Muller concrete counter tops now he's the man 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing...definitely one to check out if someone is looking for a poured concrete solution.
How long did you wait to sand?
For the first coat, I waited until it was completely dry which was by the next morning. As time went on, I used fans and it dried quicker, to the point where you can do a couple of coats/day.
Love it easy try this
Glad you liked it...if you try it, feel free to let me know how it goes 🙂
The gloves were definitely much easier! Almost finished with the kitchen
Nice! Thanks for the feedback on the gloves...I think that was the best thing I discovered. Feel free to let me know how it turns out when you're all finished....best of luck!!
I like it but I would prefer less gloss.Great job (:
sinks left in place?
Is it still holding up?
I love this
Nice job
Loved it
Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment 😊
So you used feather finish, but you call it concrete in the video?
Good point...although many people often use the terms concrete and cement interchangeably (obviously guilty myself) they are not technically the same as feather finish is a Portland cement-based skimcoat. And cement in general is just one component of concrete.
Plastic wrap helps smooth the top!
Thanks for sharing...is something you've done or seen in another video?
Alot if good tips but I think it needed to be smoother you could definitely see lines e everywhere
i always remove the sink or sinks. It is not that hard and makes for a better finished product
I would have taped off the wall, light switch, mirror and SINKS and the pan sealed with caulk afterward. Good luck ever removing those sinks. Otherwise looks nice.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts...all good ones. I've mentioned in some other comments I tried caulk but it looked terrible (I used white and I think 3 different concrete colored caulking that just didn't match well) so I removed it and put one more coat of concrete to finish it off and brought up to the sink edge (left the caulking part out of the video since I ultimately didn't use it and the video was getting long). I have to say that as I went into the project, I was willing to replace the countertop and sinks if it turned out bad, so I wasn't worried about removing the sinks....but you're absolutely right about removing the sinks in the future being a problem. The caulking issue also affected the result along the walls and that caused that part to look a little sloppy. At some point, I'll try to clean it up and post another update, but since it really doesn't look that bad when you're not right up against it, I haven't jumped on that.
WOW... What a fantastic finish for people with low standards! I'm so glad that is in your house and not mine.... now back to videos on micro cement/professional finishes....
nice job but what about the edges
I like your new channel, Kevin! It's a good feeling to be able to do your own home improvements!
Thank you so much! Really glad you got to see it~definitely something different on this channel 😊
Awesome1
Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment 😊
👍
Oh my goodness! And I thought women were the petty, nit picking, hateful ones. After reading these comments it turns out the guys are actually the ones threatened by one another’s talents and can’t be proud of each other. 🤣🤣
I wouldn't be surprised if the nasty comments from men are contractors who don't want people to have an affordable option.
Wouldn't it have been easier to use masking tape around your sink and walls? Was it easy to scrape the concrete off?
❤
These lines around the edges, like along the back wall, under the mirror and sink, aren't clean at all... you probably should have sanded these for a clean smooth surface. There is so much you can do with concrete and this seems really lazy to pour slate gray concrete in your bathroom without any sort of design.
I agree with you along the lines; the mistake I made was trying to put a caulk on that ended up not looking good and it was almost impossible to remove so I did what I could to clean it up as best as I could; I cut that part out of the video because it was already getting too long. However, the look of the concrete is exactly what I wanted, although you are correct in that there are things you can do to add to it..
Need to paint
Finger painting project for kids
LOL!
it looked better when he started!
there is no way concrete will stick to that surface.
It looks good except the sinks should have been removed first. It’s easy to do if you watch tutorials online. The finish looks sloppy coming up to the edge of the sink basin when we very where else the finish looks good. Best to go the extra mile to make it look professional.
Thanks for the feedback...I agree with you. My intent was to use caulking and that turned out terrible (tried white and various concrete colored caulking), so I removed it and put on one more coat. The video was getting long so I left that part out since I ultimately didn't use it. Overall, I still like it, but I agree it could've had a more finished look.
...eeh?
Comment for the algorithm. My opinion, it looks horrible.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and provide some feedback
From what I've been told by contractors, sealers are food safe, ONCE they are fully cured.
Ehhh not a fan personally. Expected a different result.
Shocked at how people like this. Poured concrete is one thing but this is terrible looking. It’s a mess. I would hate to have counters like this.
Painting it with concrete colored paint and adding a sealer would have looked as good, but that's a low bar.
This is horrible
Looks terrible now :D
Why would you put concrete over a laminate, pressed wood counter? The reason behind concrete countertops is the longevity and durability
for the cost, this defeats the whole purpose.
I did this purely for the cosmetic effect. Having watched other videos, I liked the look so I gave it a try, willing to just tear it out and put a new countertop in if I had to. To your point, if this were a bathroom with a lot of traffic with a lot of wear and tear on it, this probably wouldn't be a great option. I just put out a 6 month update video and overall it's held up pretty well.
Money
@@seheabol That too!
Not everyone can afford $3,000 for a small piece of granite countertop. This is a cost effective solution for those who appreciate nice things on a budget.
Looks absolutely horrible.
This is a bad idea. I do not recommend anybody do this.
Layers? No man. Gloves instead of trowel? Lmao No. Dude just tack up a form around the entire countertop and put a small bead of caulk in every corner. Mix self leveling concrete and pour. Wait 2 hrs and take forms off. Tah-dah concrete countertop. Perfect for someone who wants to feel like they're in jail everytime they take a shit or brush their teeth.
Im sorry , that looks like shit . no way to sugar coat it , it looks like crap .
No need to be sorry, it's not for everyone! I think it looks better in person without the angle and lighting for recording it. I went into the project just to try it because it was cheap and was ready to just tear it out and put in a new countertop if I didn't like it, but I actually thinks it looks a lot better than what I had before. Just putting together a 6 month update on this and during it, I showed a part of it in natural light.
is that because it's brown? try a different color
Yikes
This is a horrible idea. Bordering on a joke
Come on people I don't want to be a downer but that looks bad