Hi Kevin, I also have an evolution 14 inch chop saw the last 3 years. It used to cut square when it was new but now it undercuts on the vertical. As the blade moves down in shifts slightly in towards the vice. Only by a half mill or so. I can hear the teeth rubbing side on through the cut an times. It produces shavings of metal when it does so instead of the usual chips. Blade is brand new and its done it with previous blades. Can't see any play in the axle or hinge when the saw is lowered. Just can't figure it out. Any ideas? Great channel by the way, very informative. Never thought of blade sharpening before on the TCT blades. All the more important for me now with the way my saw is cutting!
i only have a 10" saw, but i have a local guy that does it 13$ a blade and 2$ a tooth for sharpening, and thats canadian peso's.. he does it out of his garage but has all the gear from carbide sharpening to band saw welding and any other saw blade process you can think of
@@KevincaronSculpture for sure, i was actually asking if he was interested in selling the set up and teaching me how to use it as he's in his late 60s and likes to travel in an RV now, but when he started naming off the prices he paid for machines that idea went out the window.. band saw welder cost more than a new car
So sharpening is a common thing! … Did a DIY sharpening once with my bench grinder (barely some sparks). Well it wasn’t perfect, but after that the blade was working again. Also I’m using water to cool the blade down, so the teeth’s lasts a little bit longer.
We have tried every blade imaginable. Overall on mild steel the 14 inch diablo blade out cuts everything. My local sharpen shop wont sharpen toothed blades. The most expensive blade was swiss made and cut like crap. The heavier blades are a bit thicker and cut a bit slower.
Last year around Thanksgiving I got a call to do some welding at a granite shop the guy said he bought a new chopsaw and it came with the wrong blade so bring mine he had brand new evolution saw and switch the blade for an abrasive blade it wouldn't cut worth a damn then I explained to him the blades can't be switched it won't work
Been using Twin Town 66T blades from amazon for $58. Quite pleased with their longevity for mild steel. Curious how they'd compare to Continental at 1/3 the price (new blade for same price as re-sharpening). And Twin Town do not throw chips at my face like the original EvoSaw blade did, which is much safer! Best, Andrew @BranchAndFoundry
@@KevincaronSculpture Gladly, Kevin! The biggest thing is they do not throw chips at me like original blade did. Thanks again for all you do for all of us!!!
Do you find that the same logic holds true for the smaller metal-capable blades/saws? I have the 10" Evolution compounding/beveling/sliding miter saw, partly because it has the same diameter and arbor as my tablesaw so for wood cutting I can use my existing blades, but still do some metal on the miter. The blades are pricey enough even for 10" that if having them sharpened makes sense then I may need to look into that.
You bet I do the same with my wood blades. If I find a good way to sharpen my bandsaw blades I will do those as well. Rebuild and reuse is the best way in my opinion!
@@KevincaronSculpture Good to know. Since you mentioned bandsaw blades, my old Dayton three wheeled metal-cutting bandsaw uses a nonstandard blade length that has basically required me to get custom blades, which I've been getting from Echols over on Whitton in west Phoenix. So far I've just stuck with 1/2" wide blades for steel cutting, but I'm considering making something out of aluminum that will require much tighter corners than I can achieve with a blade that wide. How narrow do you think a bandsaw blade can go without significant risk of breaking it? The sheet/plate material I'm looking at cutting is around an eighth of an inch thick. I do have a scrollsaw with speed adjustment, so I suppose if the kinds of cuts I'd want to make are simply too tight for a bandsaw I could try that instead, but I expect the bandsaw to be much faster if a small enough metal-cutting blade would last.
You are a fountain of secrets. Thank you so much!
Thank you!! I do try to pass on what I learn the hard way.
Good info! Thanks, guy!
Glad it was helpful!
Great advise about resharpening blades. Unfortunately, I have to drive 90 minutes to a small town to get it done.
Oh no! Maybe ship them in? Or time to invest in a new tool?
Great video and tips. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thanks for watching!
great info, thanks👍👍👍
No problem 👍
Hi Kevin, I also have an evolution 14 inch chop saw the last 3 years. It used to cut square when it was new but now it undercuts on the vertical. As the blade moves down in shifts slightly in towards the vice. Only by a half mill or so. I can hear the teeth rubbing side on through the cut an times. It produces shavings of metal when it does so instead of the usual chips. Blade is brand new and its done it with previous blades. Can't see any play in the axle or hinge when the saw is lowered. Just can't figure it out. Any ideas? Great channel by the way, very informative. Never thought of blade sharpening before on the TCT blades. All the more important for me now with the way my saw is cutting!
Check the bed to blade with a square. The bed may be bent slightly. Also check the bed for flatness. Thank you for watching and posting.
The play maybe in the hindge the saw rides on.
Rare but I have seen a blade with one side of the set sharper than the other pull the blade a bit.
i only have a 10" saw, but i have a local guy that does it 13$ a blade and 2$ a tooth for sharpening, and thats canadian peso's.. he does it out of his garage but has all the gear from carbide sharpening to band saw welding and any other saw blade process you can think of
Can be a nice little side business if you have the mind to run it.
@@KevincaronSculpture for sure, i was actually asking if he was interested in selling the set up and teaching me how to use it as he's in his late 60s and likes to travel in an RV now, but when he started naming off the prices he paid for machines that idea went out the window.. band saw welder cost more than a new car
Hi Kevin, I’m local here in Cave Creek. Can you share the name of the shop you use? I’d like to try them out.
Thx.
Desert Cutting Solutions. They are on the west side of town. Sorry, I don't have the number handy.
Thanks Kevin 👍👍
That was a toothy video.
Just little scraps to chew on later.
I sawet I saw a putty tat !!
Woah that will keep a lot of cash in my wallet
So sharpening is a common thing! … Did a DIY sharpening once with my bench grinder (barely some sparks). Well it wasn’t perfect, but after that the blade was working again. Also I’m using water to cool the blade down, so the teeth’s lasts a little bit longer.
Thought about some kind of cooling system for my saw. Still thinking about it!
In my opinion, just a mug of water in the right hand is more than enough as a cooling system.🤣😇
We have tried every blade imaginable. Overall on mild steel the 14 inch diablo blade out cuts everything. My local sharpen shop wont sharpen toothed blades. The most expensive blade was swiss made and cut like crap.
The heavier blades are a bit thicker and cut a bit slower.
You have a saw sharpening service that won't sharpen a saw blade!!?? Don't know what to say to this one.
Last year around Thanksgiving I got a call to do some welding at a granite shop the guy said he bought a new chopsaw and it came with the wrong blade so bring mine he had brand new evolution saw and switch the blade for an abrasive blade it wouldn't cut worth a damn then I explained to him the blades can't be switched it won't work
That is correct. The saws turn at different speeds and won't use the "other" blade.
Been using Twin Town 66T blades from amazon for $58. Quite pleased with their longevity for mild steel. Curious how they'd compare to Continental at 1/3 the price (new blade for same price as re-sharpening). And Twin Town do not throw chips at my face like the original EvoSaw blade did, which is much safer! Best, Andrew @BranchAndFoundry
Have to get a couple of these and give them a go. Thanks for the tip!
@@KevincaronSculpture Gladly, Kevin! The biggest thing is they do not throw chips at me like original blade did. Thanks again for all you do for all of us!!!
Do you find that the same logic holds true for the smaller metal-capable blades/saws? I have the 10" Evolution compounding/beveling/sliding miter saw, partly because it has the same diameter and arbor as my tablesaw so for wood cutting I can use my existing blades, but still do some metal on the miter. The blades are pricey enough even for 10" that if having them sharpened makes sense then I may need to look into that.
You bet I do the same with my wood blades. If I find a good way to sharpen my bandsaw blades I will do those as well. Rebuild and reuse is the best way in my opinion!
@@KevincaronSculpture Good to know.
Since you mentioned bandsaw blades, my old Dayton three wheeled metal-cutting bandsaw uses a nonstandard blade length that has basically required me to get custom blades, which I've been getting from Echols over on Whitton in west Phoenix. So far I've just stuck with 1/2" wide blades for steel cutting, but I'm considering making something out of aluminum that will require much tighter corners than I can achieve with a blade that wide. How narrow do you think a bandsaw blade can go without significant risk of breaking it? The sheet/plate material I'm looking at cutting is around an eighth of an inch thick.
I do have a scrollsaw with speed adjustment, so I suppose if the kinds of cuts I'd want to make are simply too tight for a bandsaw I could try that instead, but I expect the bandsaw to be much faster if a small enough metal-cutting blade would last.
Great idea Kevin. You're a master at coming up with ideas that other people may have never thought of. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching and posting.