Shortening an ex U-Haul box truck for a flatbed build Part 1
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2023
- In this video I move the axle forward on this cab and chassis truck.
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Shawn if you grind the head flat on one side, you dont have to grind it down to the frame. then use a 1/4" drill bit and dill most of the way through the rivet. You can use a pin punch in your air hammer and it will drive out. The reason they are so hard to get out is they are compressed during installation and they are actually wedged into the holes on all the parts. By drilling it out part way you will relieve the pressure and driving it from inside the rivet will make sure you are not wedging it further when driving it.
and heat if it is rusty like pretty much anything on a farm that 5 years or older... a ton of heat
Worked for a GMC Truck dealer lon ago. We'd just cut and shorten the frame rails, and have a drive shaft made up to fit !
Shawn. For removing the rivots you can grind off one side and then use a torch to heat just the rivet to red hot and then with the air chisel and a flat end (not pointed) it will blow the rivot right out.
Yup. Heat and Beat. First thing I thought of.
these are fantastic trucks. 8.1 has great power. not terrible on fuel. the Allison trans keeps it in the right rpm range for hp and torque. i would build my bed right on top of that bent steel uhaul uses for their low box floor. the rivets in the gm frames get swelled and wedge in between each layer. i torch off whichever side is easiest to get to. then heat up the center of the rivet. use the torch to blow a hole through the center of the rivet. between the heat and the hole, it helps to give the bulge a little relief. then the air hammer takes them out easier. i take the extra steel that uhaul added off. clean between the two. then swap them side to side for an overlay frame. gives extra strength for heavy and concentrated loads. i use a bottle jack with a short section of pipe to spread the frame a little. helps to get those crossmembers moving. if you get small shavings in the collar of the mag drill, or if you push the drill too hard into the material, the anullar cutter can get stuck. funny....your cutting off frame and im looking for frame to stretch one of mine.
Great video, truck and tenacity. Love watching this build.
Great video Shawn...love you build series....looking forward to watch the rest of this series
Thank you Jay! I just fixed a bunch of my crappy welds. I had a few friends over and all comments on the welds. I was dreading it, but I spent a few hours welding, grinding, welding, grinding...
I'm loving this video already ❤
This kind of content reminds me of the DIY days on the farm growing up. We did so much of this kind of stuff in the 80s and 90s. But it saved money and we built some fun machinery and other things that worked well.
Same! There are so many projects that can never be shared like this..
@@GCFD maybe just drill those rivets out. with a drill, glhf
I always enjoy these videos even though this wouldn't be something I would ever do. Keep up with the great upload Shawn!
Thank you Bruno! This project has turned into a big one for sure!
You are a braver man than I being in shorts with a plasmer cutter that near!
Cool project
Very well done!
Oh boy another build project!!!Been a while. 👍 Looking good!
I know I say this all the time when you show your gmc trucks but man I wish we had them in Australia! Nice work Sean!
Great video! Patience is a virtue 😊
If you put a pizza oven on the back it might save you a few bucks at lunch time! 🤣
Good job. I've never done anything like this and if id ever do I would follow some of your tips. Thanks for the upload!
Thank you for watching!
Well shawn what you have done up to now is really good, your going to end up with a handy truck 👍👍
Shawn just gets it done!
Haha, thank you!
Shawn doing work on this video!!
Keep making it look easy!!
Good work!!
Great video
That's going to be a good heavy duty truck when your done.
Keep up the good work
Congrats Shawn, on cutting-off the Rail's and mounting the Bracket's back-on. A tuff job. use one of the rail's to mount ur rear light's on.
Great video Shawn - great skills and precision for a tough job.
(Lincoln Electric- time to redeem yourselves with your flagship Plasma cutter for Shawn - so he can put it to good use).
Great new series - although I do really like the drainage projects too.
Nice. I used to take on projects like this. Nice work buddy
Great video keep them coming
Sweet stuff!
I'm so urban that never could I ever do something like this. So impressive! 🎉
I hope you enjoyed watching me struggle! 👍
Good job almost there! God Bless!!
Great build! I been planning on a very similar kodiak build. All ya need is pin punch on the air hammer after doing exactly what you did with the heads. Those rivets will pop right out. No drilling, no hand hammer.
Good demonstration of how well built that frame was
Seriously!
Awesome job!
Use a punch with your air hammer that is flat, the pointy one will expand the diameter of the bolt and tighten it about the hole... A plasma torch that can go through a one inch long bolt is not made for the common man, overall though a plasma torch works best after it has made a hole to 'expel' the metal about, not really meant for spots of metal like a bolt. I like the the flat air chisel that has a cutting divet in it, though Im only cutting 14g sheet metal with spot welds... Making the surrounding metal around the rivot red hot makes it bigger which should let the rivots just drop out (this essentially was what you were doing when you plasma torched the metal before hammering) . I really do enjoy the tenacity you showcase to get a job done.
Hell yeah! Looking forward to this!
Thank you! This has been a huge project so far
Ive removed hundreds of rivets, my go to method is heat the head of the rivet on both sides, with oxygen/acetylene torch, then immediately cut the heads off with air hammer, then pry the different riveted layers apart with the air hammer, if its a big flange I would jam it full of wedges to separate it all apart, you will usually end up with the stud of the rivet stuck in one layer eventually, this time cut it with the torch flat against the metal and push it through with the air hammer... loud fast and effective!
Thank you Vinny! This was a challenge for me for sure!
How about drillings hole through the rivet. That way the material has somewhere to go when chiseling
Yes a shawn truck video. I've been wanting to do this for a cheap hauler.
While working on aircraft, we were instructed to use your second finger on the trigger, your pointer finger helps to steady and guide the tool, especially if variable drive .just my opinion, great job and awesome videos. Keep them coming!😊.
Great tip! This was my first air hammer.
While completing my welding apprenticeship. I was given this advice.
Even in the assembly line, I am trying to teach the new older men to do this as well.
You need a sledge hammer and a flat tipped punch, that air hammer just taps away at anything you use it on, you need hard sharp blows with the hammer (easy with the that’s what she said jokes) to push those through, another set of hands or a short sledgehammer possibly do it yourself, I’m sure you’ve done the job already and gotten thousand comments but only way to see if this works is to do it, ain’t nothing to it but to do it
All The Best
Fabrizio
The pointed tip on your air hammer was making the rivet expand in the hole a round punch would have not expanded the rivet. Your doing a great job. Working through a tough task.
Think the convex on the washer goes to the rubber bushing to help prevent extrusion of the rubber bushing. Also use anti seize and if you ever have to undo them they might com off without having to cut them. Got er done . Good enough !
Unbelievable job!…
That trick with the Plasma cutter just heating the rivets then air hammer them out, just goes to show, you learn something New Everyday - thanks.
I need more days to learn, that's for sure!
Nice looking truck
Thank you Walt!
Man what a project
When I was a up fitter, we would take a torch and melt the heads off the huckbolts off carefully with out fitting the frame and then the rivets you can drill a 1/8’ pilot hole in them and get your torch or plasma started in the center and work out word in a swirl. jC smith projects uploads a ton of videos he has a great trick for marking the holes by measuring out the distance on a steel rod and center points on each end and transfers hole for hole
I have the same mag drill from evolution. There are 2 set screw that hold the bit in. You need to loosen both of them. I've had 0 issues with mine.
This has been done before, cut the rear section in front of the axle assembly to the length you want and weld the two section together with major support plates, The whole rear section with shortened drive shaft, brake lines and wiring are just moves forward without any other major rework. It's so much easier this way and the way most manufactures would make this modification....
Very cool!!
Hello from the Netherlands.
I'm pretty sure JC Smith showed how he did that with those rivets in one or more videos.
nice new project truck
thanks for the video Shawn .
Sincerely Hollandduck
Thank you Holland duck!
Kallstrom Sweet Corn here in Eastern , Washington . Funny thing we are adding to 2 feet to our 2005 GMC c5500 . We paid 5000$ for ours in 10-2023 at a RB Auction in Colorado but had another 5000$ into it by the time we had it back to Wash. [ all new tires , some mechanical work ] .
Great project, well planned.
Sounds like a red tailed hawk at 54:54.
By using a point instead of a drift you are actually riveting the plugs rivet like those a red hot when put in so they spread along the length of their shaft hence the difficulty of removing same.
Euroboor are the best mag drills to buy. I used to sell them in Canada and never got a bad report from the 100 or so drills I sold.
Thank you!
My vote is to make it into a hook truck. Then you can put whatever youd like on the back, flat bed, dump bed, tree transplant, water tank, utility. Great vid
Another Build...Great Video (1st time ive ever seen your camera(s) glitching for whatever reason) Nice truck looks clean, After you said it A Week of Tough labor, Didnt know magnetic drill's were a thing Unfort they didnt hold up, cant believe the new one had a faulty chuck assembly - Cant wait to see more.
Hey what do you mean cameras glitching?
@@GCFD I saw at least 3 times when working on the rivets at different times on the ground it would freeze and then skip a few frames. if you want exact points i will rewatch it for reference - otherwise not a big deal.
@@Stratos53100 gotcha
Done a lot of chassis work on concrete agitator trucks replacing rusted chassis rails and cross members, easiest way of removing rivets was using a mag drill and the correct size annular cutter. Hope this helps cheers
Rain man Ray would be proud. "Everything is a hammer"
I normally remove the rivet head with the most access, then I drill a 5mm (3/16") hole, next I heat the rivet red hot and after letting it cool, I drive them out with a flat tip air hammer. The hole allows the heated rivet to contract slightly as it cools. If this fails I just drill them out.
I love this video your working your ass off lol.
i have seen vids where they take the rivits out it was on smaller sized pickups though
they use an airchissel where they first cut the head off one side then drive the rivit through using a drift tool in the airchissel
think they used a bigger airchissel
might help heating them up , another option is using a magdrill to drill the rivits out and dont use the grinders and aircissel , might be the cleanest solution
I use a snap on and a mac long barreled chisel on those also if you have a set of torches a bit of heat will take a lot of fight out of them!
I did order a snap on after using this one. I hope it hits harder!
Not sure if it's on your to do list. I've worked for 2 companies that did chassis rebuilds/replacements for rigs. Make sure you fill all your frame rail holes. Just put bolts in them but make sure they aren't undersized. Apparently this is important for hardened steel frame rails. It will help the frame rail and help stop your double rail from splitting. Good work bud.
If you shorten the frame what about the emergency cable do you get a shorter one or just use the same one and stuff it in the iner frame I'm about to buy the same chassis truck. Thank you
I'm not sure if you noticed it or not but when you put those bushings on for those shocks you put the washer that is on the nut side of them on upside down every time I've installed them the paperwork always says have the rounded side facing nut in the side that has the dip in it needs to be facing the bushing
Long video, may come back later, love the house drainage stuff.
Shawn the easiest way to get rid of the rivets is grind the mushroom head off then use a magnetic drill from the outside with a cobalt drill bit and drill through the whole rivet thats the easiest way cheers from down under
Those rivets are put in there and they are swelled to fit the holes tight from the factory. Only way I’ve gotten them out before by just drilling through them. That makes it a lot easier.
I found that the point drifts only spread the rivets outwards, so I cut the point off of one & used basically the shaft to drive the body out. Works well friend
Heavy heat set rivets hold all along the rivet includes the shank they mushroom into the hole then as the rivets cool they contract clamping even tighter... Usually have to burn them out...
Big job. I noticed that you didn’t double flare the brake line. Is it not required in your area
J.C. SMITH's youtube channel is where you would get the best advise about building a flatbed . He does great work and his video's are really good and he explains everything extremely well . BTW Nice truck you there sir .
Evolution is top!
Shawn if you watch the Pakistani truck repair videos you see the guys using chisels and sledge hammers mate, one holds the drift the other whacks it, heat is also your friend gas torch the rivets up :) great job
I think I figured out heat is the ticket....but just too late in the job. I really struggled with those rivets.
@@GCFD yeah i posted early in the vid..you worked it out mate..that back bumper is a beast..you refitting it?
Them guys know how to build stuff for sure!
I would like to see the fuel tank moved to between the frame rails.
Ready for part 2!
Same Phillip! I’ve been very busy but I’m trying to get some videos going!
Great, as a 24 year old general contractor from NC I can relate to a lot of your videos! You do great work!
I wonder how well a mag drill would work to get the factory rivets out?
Just like a rusty nut on a bolt. You heat the nut red hot and the heating and contraction seem to break the rust. Always came off for me.
Also with those cross members maybe if you used a bottle jack on its side to spread those rails, the cross members could have slid out much easier, just a thought.
I should have watched the rest of the vid before I made this comment.
Ha you figured it out before I did, that's for sure!
Drill out rivets. You can easily drill out truck frame rivets. Center punch the mushroomed cap of the rivet, use 3/8inch drill bit to get just beyond the cap, then use 1/2inch drill bit and cap easily chisels off smooth but recessed beyond the hold of the now gone mushroomed cap. Then punch the rivet through with hammer and punch and it just pops out cleanly. Takes just a few minutes per rivet, sir. No plasma, no torch. Clean.😇
Usually metal expand with heat. So with you heating it up it allows the the hole to slightly open enough to release to the rivets. Still watch if you said it later in the video.
I didn't see the jack stands until later and was wondering what spell you were using to keep the frame in the air.
Hahah!
That is a great price. What was your mileage ? What area are you in ? Great build
Did you try drilling the rivets with a cobalt drill?
the cup goes toward the rubber both sides look at how new shocks are fitted.
You get a cold chisle and a sledgehammer one person holds the chisle the other wacks it hard then take a hydralic press, use the frame to brace it and force the rivit out from the inside. There is a Pakastanni truck repair video series that will show you how to use the basic hand tools and muscle to get the job done
I usually drill out the center of rivets before trying to remove them
I would have moved the axle prior to removing the cross braces to keep frame square and straight,
I used a torch and my plasma cutter carefully to remove the rivets
Cool!
👍
I use a flap disc and just take the whole head off... and the drill baby drill
Does this truck have the 6.6 duramax with an Allison 1000 transmission ?
I don’t even have one myself , but I bet an arc gouge would be the perfect tool for those rivets. That pointy chisel could be mushrooming the rivet back out inside the hole. Sorry about your Lincoln plasma cutter being a disappointment I’m surprised with a name like that they would even produce something of such low duty cycle.
Some of those magnetic drills have to be on metal with the magnet engaged for the motor to work.
I wondered why you didn't drill out the center of the rivets about halfway, then a larger bit to grind away the outer edges. then hammer them out. give the rivets room to compress. The plasma torch basically did the same thing, of course being hot helped the metal to compress and shoot out.
Set it up with removeable sides, maybe have 2 different heights a 3 foot, and 6 foot depending on what you have. And maybe 4-6 sliding straps to tie down pallets of stuff.
looking at the frame, you might want to run a welding bead along the top to give that outside frame some added strength.
Drilling was an option but I already had sooo many holes to drill I just couldn't drill more..
What is the cab to axle measurement after you slid the axle forward? I watched the whole video but didn't hear you say what it ended up being.
You need to blow a hole in the middle of the rivet to release it because they are put in hot.How often have you done this?
An oxyacetylene torch certainly would help blowing those rivet heads off with minimal damage to the frame, love your channel bummer the tommahawk is junk maybe trade it in? Hypertherm is really the bees knees when it comes to plasma cutting
HeT was the tool for the job.
You got to grind them flish so you see the round outline of revit
I think you should put a alumman bed on it so much lighter on the truck and maybe you can haul a little bit more load
Has it been reliable, or have you had to do any kind of powertrain issues?
Great work, you really know how to do stuff.
Could you fabricate something like @Victoryoutdoorservices has on their "form truck"? They have place for wheel barrows , tools, construction wood (replaced by pipes in your case)
How diffucult is to get it back on road legally? It would be nightmare here in Europe, you messed with the frame, with wheel attachment ...