Waterproofing Old Basement Walls (Exterior + Interior Options)
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Old basements are often a source of leaks and moisture, and attempting to waterproof and seal them can be an exercise in futility. The only way to reliably waterproof basement walls is to combine the waterproofing with coupled with good drainage. Ideally, we want to address drainage and water management on the exterior to prevent water from challenging the foundation walls, however, this isn't always possible. If waterproofing and drainage cannot be provided on the exterior, an interior drainage strategy must be implemented to prevent water from leaking into the interior of the basement by uncoupling the masonry wall from the new interior framed walls. This prevents trapped moisture from flooding the basement, sustaining mold growth behind finishes, and helps to counter efflorescence, subflorescence, and spalling from repeated evaporation. In this video, we walkthrough waterproofing and drainage strategies for old basements to help you determine what is the right solution is for your project.
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Never stop making them, they're super educational! Thank you good Sir!
Glad you like them, more coming every week! Cheers!
My husband and I bought a classic brick building, over a hundred years, which is old for Canada… great videos, tonnes of info given efficiently and accurately. Also, not a lot of arenas deal with the proper way to treat old brick while respecting the capillary action that it was intended for. Thank-you so much.
Love your videos!
Thank you!
@asiridesigns question for you- if I took the time and money to dig out the exterior should I be considering exterior insulation of the basement? With maybe Rockwool comfortboard 80?
I tend to stay away from exterior insulation for below-grade applications since it can deteriorate quicker than if it were located inboard. Rockwool comfortboard will give you a much better chance of durability, but I think it's best to keep the insulation as dry as possible since saturation can lead to a loss of R-value. If you do locate the rockwool outside, make sure it's behind the dimple mat, as this will serve as a protection course.
@@ASIRIDesigns than you for the reply. Pointing out “below-grade” is very helpful. I have learned so much from your videos, thank you for sharing. Please consider making a video on joists. In particular, vibration with open web (I thought open web sounded great until I walked on one.
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate your videos very much. I believe my case is similar. My home is located in the US and was built in the 1970s. The foundation walls are constructed of cinder block. Tar was applied to the exterior to lock out moisture but overtime has began to deteriorate. There was some visible cracking in the interior but as of lately has been sealed with hydraulic cement. An interior French drain was constructed later leaving about a half inch gap from the foundations walls to catch condensation drip. I am now looking to finish my basement but do not have the ability to excavate on the outside. Would applying a subfloor system (combination of dimple mat and obs) along the slab and a foam board along the walls (with 1/2 inch gap between the cinder block and foam board) be sufficient as a vapor barrier in my case? Thank you.
Love your video! Can dense packed cellulose be used instead of Rockwool comfortbatt on the foundation wall? Should a smart vapour barrier be used instead of a polyethylene sheet?
Wouldn't using the dimple membrane on the inside as a vapour barrier cause issues because the stone foundation is never allowed to dry out? My understanding is that stone foundations aren't supposed to remain wet 100% of the time as this can destroy the stone and mortar.
They're wet 100% of the time anyway, vapour barrier or not. As moisture travels towards areas with lower humidity, if you allow the below grade moisture to evaporate into a basement, you're actually increasing the amount of water passing through the below grade wall. It's not the moisture per se that damages the wall. It's the flow of water. The below grade wall will never be able to dry, as you can't dry out the ground water.
What you can do is to isolate the wall and provide drainage. Even the older buildings have impermeable DPC under the floor. Even with ventilated subfloor.
Now, above grade, depending on the weather, humidity inside can be higher or lower than outside. So a "smart" vapour retarder is required.
This is great information but installing a system like this on many old houses would cost as much as the house itself. A more practical approach would be useful also.
On the interior drain system, wouldn’t you have to drill weep holes in the block so water could drain, if you don’t have access to the outside drain perimeter 🤔
How do you build interior walls on floating rigid foam?
Isn’t the interior drain where the footers should be? How’s the concrete floor supported?
Not in this scenario, most basement slabs are floating. You almost never see monolithic slabs used in basement construction since the risk of water entry through the cove joint is must higher.
I really enjoy your videos, but the music is very overwhelming; it makes it hard to concentrate on the content.
Duly noted! Trying to find the right balance of ambient background music. Appreciate you watching. Cheers!
Just half the volume pf the music from what you normally do. See if people still complain. Adjust accordingly.@@ASIRIDesigns
This is hard to follow. I’m trying to figure out which way is better. How do I figure that out?
My home was built in 1930 the basement gets moisture when it rains on 1 side.