Vapor barriers on the inside should be overlapped with the top edge of each layer covering the bottom edge of the one above it. If it is done as shone on this video and condensation builds up on the back side of the vapor barrier it will just simply run into the insulated wall cavity.
I'm not an expert but I thought Typar allowed air flow in one direction, the black side through to the white side with the labels on it. moisture comes from the concrete walls, I think you would want this the other way around.
All your videos have been so helpful. My husband got impatient and couldn’t find a neighbor or assistant so he built one for the roll to sit on with a broom and two clamps! He was able to run the roll around all three sides continuously. You have made home renovations enjoyable!
Try building your wall on the floor,using a pressure treated bottom plate.With the wall on the floor staple the typar starting at the PT bottom plate working up in layers like a shingle(we used tar paper in the 1980's).When you stand the wall,the Typar goes to the foundation.Fasten to a chalked line on the above floor joists and shim bottom plate.If the wall is off the floor,fasten 2x4 blocks to bottom of wall near studs to anchor bottom of wall.
The exterior vapor barrier wasn't shingled to prevent condensation from dripping to the inside of the stud wall. 😥. You have to make sure to shingle top in front of bottom from the perspective of the side where the vapor comes from.
You a bad boy. I'm second generation contractor. seen many. podcast on our industry. You're care about your audience and it's obvious. Keep up the awesome work bro. I'm Nelson The Painter from ATLANTA GA
love these vids..1 small improvement is to use Rockwool or go to the trouble of XPS foam. .Fiberglass is not recommended by Fine Home Building and most experts...If it gets wet , stays wet and I always find some mold in it during renos
After watching all kinds of DIY videos on insulating.. I'm going with closed cell foam in my basement. My foundation has almost 6 feet of visible concrete in the backyard. Condensation like crazy. I need a complete vapor lock.
Hi. Ok now i m a loyal member. I am pretty sure the only real way to safely insulate a basement is doing it right in the first place. Lots of drainage and exterior insulation. Since thats not an option once the house is built i m trying to plan my bsmt insulation. The house has been a creative redo on the two living floors, now the job is to insulate as well as possible the bsmt. Thks. Ian
I'm so happy to see someone in Ontario performing this work. It's a nightmare trying to piece together various videos on the same subjects for the code-centric knowledge required. Please keep it up!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So true ! I live near Peterborough, Ontario and took advantage of the Eco Energy Retrofit Program in 2010/2011. This house was advertised as having a Finished Basement which was so cold in the winter, I couldn't use the Rec Room. The Eco Energy Program Person said that I was losing most of my heat from the headers in the Basement. The people I purchased the house from had finished the basement with panelling (1968 style) using just a few 1/4" straps. No insulation behind the panelling. When I took down the 12"x12" ceiling tiles, there was no insulation in the Headers either. What I was required to do per the "program" was to caulk around the interior of each header, then add R12. Then I needed to add Pink Foam Board and caulk around that with Acoustical Sealant which was a royal pain in the butt however I passed the finished blow test having reached the highest Energy Efficiency for a house of this age. So I received a sticker to attach to my electrical panel stating that my home is 78% Energy Efficient, and a nice Cheque back in about 6 weeks after the passing the final test. And I'm not one bit sorry for doing all that work (I did the upstairs of this bungalow too). I still have the Book that came with the program stating the "proper procedures" for insulating every place in my home, but like everything else, those "procedures" seem to change like the weather! Love your Channel. Thank you for posting your videos with so many helpful tips!!!
@@Christine-wi1dl Thanks for sharing.We're doing the same here in Laval, Qc. Having a similar program, I decided to start the process and we're going to start by the outside of the house by removing all sidings and foam insulation and replacing it / fixing what we encounter. Did they do the test for the whole house or targetted the basement?
This is my step 1. I have to redo the insulation in my basement because ours is probably done on a monday or something because it looks like my kids did it. I might end up hiring a spray-foam company... but this is good!
I had a 4 inch gap in my in basement similar to this video and it didn't work. The gap was there because the basement was underpinned. I had moisture on the foundation wall behind the insulation. I know because I cut out a section to take a look when the basement started smelling mouldy. Location: Canada Now I have spray foam insulation on the basement walls and there is no problem. You can probably use rigid foam insulation behind the wood frame, but you better seal every connection and have some channel on the bottom to catch any water and diver it to a drain so it doesn't get under your floor.
Michael what is your foundation? I’m about to spray foam my rubble foundation. I’m putting delta-ms on the inside, bottom 5ft, to allow a thermal break so moisture won’t linger in the mortar and freeze. Also put delta-ms on the exterior with a new weeping tile last year to prevent moisture coming in.
After gutting our basement, getting mold remediated, and putting in a french drain, I will be rebuilding the basement myself. I would like to use the system you show above, however, considering we were getting alot of moisture through the walls (100 year old house, poured concrete in northern NJ), I am wondering if I should also drylock the walls. My questions are: 1. Will the typar and drylock create a space from which the humidity cannot escape and trap the moisture? 2. Is this overkill Looking forward to hearing from you and thanks for the great channel!!
Wow!!!! What a great question. Since you are a member i will give you the full answer. The best way to keep moisture out is from the outside. Using drylock on the inside will definitely help However I would suggest using a vapor barrier with a french drain system so that you isolate the foundation from the living space. The use of an airspace is only valuable to homes that need to regularly transfer moisture to the framing and ultimately to the outside through relative humidity transfer that don't have a french drain. Once you install the drain you can effectively separate the outside wall from the interior wall with a vapor barrier and eliminate the need for moisture transfer to the framing. This is a much more ideal system and will result in lower energy costs as well. If you need clarification feel free to call me on the callmart app. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!!!! that is super helpful! Would love to get on a call for 5 minutes if you have the time to make sure I fully understand. How do I go about connecting on the callmart app?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi Jeff, I just tried calling 3 times on call mart, it picks up, then immediately hangs up, I then immediately received 3 charges on my card for $18.71. not sure what I am doing wrong
@@eyaldimant6824 contact a reputable sprayfoam company and have them spray the concrete directly. It will solve all your issues, I live in Ontario where moisture is a big problem. Batts/poly is just a cheap system for what the cost of spraying is/what it gives in return. We sprayed an entire 4000sqft house, no moisture problems and the homeowners heating bills are less than half of the neighbours with similar sized homes.
Getting ready to turn my garage into a music studio on the other side of the world. Can't imagine what would I do without these videos on this channel. Thanks so much!!!!!
Thanks for all the clearly recorded footage and inspirational narrative. Even I am feeling MUCH more informed, if not capable to do this stuff myself!! Had a flooded finished basement due to untoward weather event last February in Western OR. The house was built in 1952 with many modifications since, mostly unpermitted. Basement work was permitted in around 10 years ago which included lining the foundation with black plastic not attached to studs, then paperless fiberglass between studs down to rest on pressure treated wood which is secured to a slab that undoubtedly was poured without a barrier beneath. The finish is regular drywall and on the floor 6mil poly and click cork panel-lovely and warm. I'm left with 2ft flood cuts and am "ready" to restore the downstairs.The wood in studs and on the floor show no sign of water exposure and the batting which was removed had no visible mold/mildew. While I'm not expecting water intrusion again, I still want to move ahead in a manner that takes into account the possiblity of vapor and more. I can't afford overkill, so... Do I: 1) tear out the drywall and plastic ---and spray on closed cell or put in foam panels-if so, do I have to use some spray in behind the studs ---use typar or tyvec as you have demonstrated, then batting 2) leave the system as is and just replace the batting 3) replace the drwall with same or with cement board? I am definitely going to use a dimple mat this time around and if I want to go with cork again, would I use 1-step and then just lay the cork atop or for "better safe than sorry" go with DMX, plywood then LVT?
Hi Janet, Wow That is one doozy of a question. First of all let me say that weather events happen. And when you get a flooded basement there is little you can do in the building system to protect you for every possible occasion. Having said that I have found that simple building systems and the following trick will help make the restoration process really quick and painless. First since 8 out of ten water events in a basement are less than 2 Inches I always suggest to people that are prone to regular water events they can install blocking in the wall at 6 inches from the floor and then insulate above that. This enables the restoration crew to remove the baseboards and just drill holes in the drywall that will be covered up by the baseboards later. The fans can then circulate behinds the walls to dry everything out. since you are using a cork floor it can be removed and reinstalled. When the drying is done simply put the floor and baseboards back on and maybe a touch up paint on the trim and you are good to go. If you are looking for a permanent solution you need to waterproof the exterior walls outside to the weeping tile. Make sure any windows have drainage tile in them as well and cover the wells in the winter so that you don't get a thaw freeze effect getting water around the sill of the window. Have a sump pit and as a last measure install an interior perimeter drain attached to the sump pit. This pit needs a second pump as a backup with a battery backup and perhaps an alarm with notification to your phone. This can be in excess of $40,000 and needs to be a value to you. Everything else in between will fail and so will this technique if you get more than 2 inches. In closing we love the space the bathroom provides but we need to remember they are susceptible to these types of problems and balance out the investment with the benefit for yourself. Insurance companies will not change their protocol for flood response based on your building system but they will do the drilling and air movement if it is clean water and that is over 90 % of the cases. Good luck I hope this helps. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to even read my long winded query... AND then respond. While noone can see the future, the past 22 years in this house have never seen water incurison-even during a flat out flood (we are not in any kind of flood zone), so I am hoping this was a one time freak event. Your minimalistic approach appeals to me. By Blocking, do you mean put some EPS in up against the plastic that is thereperpendicular to the floor-like a fire block sort of situation, then isul;ate above with batting. If I don't insulate those bottom 6 inches won't that be asking for condensation to form as I will be heating the basement. I really appreciate just having someone to ask. Thank you again.
Hi Janet, unless you are heating your basement at the floor there will be no change in temperature at the floor level. The walls and floor are the same temperature year round at that level and as such causes no condensation. Your best solution is to spray foam the walls , however that comes with an additional cost. usually triple the cost of batt.
That was helpful. Our fishing clubhouse three sides underground and is musty. No a/c. So was wondering how to tear walls out and properly insulate. You answered my question. I noticed your helper scratching his arms. So much for itch free insulation.
Thanks for the video. Correct me if I'm wrong but there seems to be some consensus that vapor barrier films or paper are a bad idea for basements. Underground walls need to breath so moisture is never trapped on one side or the other. Also, fiberglass has also been thought of as a no no due to mold and mildew issues. I have been taught that the best and most cost effective method to insulate the basement is xps foam board Directly against the concrete wall followed by framing and then something like roxul between the studs for extra R-value. Again thanks for the videos. I have learned a lot.
The typar is not a vapor barrier. It is a house wrap that is designed to divert water. it does not trap vapor. Always best to refer to the local building code. I personally don't like any system in contact with my concrete. Iy wakes it so hard to identify and repair any future problems.
I understand. I did notice this in some building codes but here in New England it is not necessarily a requirement. I'm working on remodeling my house and have worked construction jobs in the past renovating basements. Ever situation with a poly film or fiberglass near the wall has revealed a lot of trapped moisture and dark mold. You can imagine there will be condensation on the concrete when it is cold and transitions into a warm space within the dwelling, so it makes sense that you leave an air gap and prevent any contact. Thanks again for the information.
I, and I beleive most other building scientists would not recomend this sort of assembly. In some areas code will require a vapor barrier on the conditioned side of the wall assembly. However the solution shown in the video has a couple problems . First I dont ever like to see fiberglass insulation in basements, and I see no excuse for that. Second Typar is only 10-15 perms. If the basement were to experiance a flooding event it would not allow water in the trapped cavity to escape fast enough to prevent mold growth. Even if it was 50 perms the water vapor would just be escaping into the enclosed cavity behind the wall until the humidity was near 100%. A better way to do this assemply is to use MemBrain instead of the poly barrier. This vapor retarder becomes vapor open when the humidity gets too high in the wall cavity, allowing water vapor to escape. I would personally also nix the typar altogether as its not really doing anything at that point.
LOL The best solution for a basement is a simple one. I have seen for years people trying to make the basement a living addition to the home and then they get flooded and start over again. Why invest huge amounts of money into a temporary space. Get bang for your buck but put your best living spaces above grade.
Ontario code since 2012 requires a minimum of R20 for newcon and reno in a basement. Its better to use 2" xps or polyiso, sealed foam edges, a poly strip at the bottom , then do a 2x4 frame wall with pt baseplate with an R16 Roxul in between.
Hello, I just wanted to say that I really have learned a lot from your videos . I just bought a house a little more than a year ago in Alaska and figuring out how I should approach this fixer upper has been a challenge. Your channel has been really helpful. You have a great personality and it makes it not seem so overwhelming. Thank you for all your advice.
I see you do one wall in this video (and show a laundry room that may or may not have been insulated the same way. Does this system require all walls to be insulated in the same way? Will it fail if there is one wall that isn't insulated? Would you insulate the exterior wall of the laundry room or would you insulate the interior wall of the laundry room?
Wow! Thank you for the very clear info! When our neighbor's pool split open this summer, we pulled back the wood panelling to allow for proper drying ... and found zero plastic sheeting and puny little white styrofoam blocs with huge air gaps...no wonder our basement is always cold and humid. (We're in Montreal).
Hi Jeff - I think I've talked myself in circles on how to PROPERLY construct the walls for my application. Can you check my thinking? Quick information about my home and weather - I think it matters...I'm not in a nice warm state...I'm in Northern Ohio, so we have temperatures down to below zero to 100*F. My house was built in 1968-1969, so I have a cinder block foundation. No water proofing on the exterior. After addressing drainage outside, I'm able to keep the basement at around 45% humidity with a box store dehumidifier. I will install a whole house dehumidifier to take even more moisture out of the air. I plan to stay off the block wall an inch or more, just for an air barrier so the block can breath and let moisture transfer if needed. Treated lumber on the floor and regular wood studs (not metal) for the framing. For insulation, since there is a chance of moisture from the foundation, I am looking at foam board. Could I just use a standard 1" thick "pink" foam board for insulation between the studs? Then use GreatStuff to hold the foam board to the studs. I think foam board might be best for my application since it will not wick up water... should I get some moisture/water coming through the block down the road. NO poly and green (mold "resistant") drywall and done. My big question is on NOT using poly or any vapor barrier. Since my foundation could get wet in rare cases, my thought is the foam board would help keep the moist air in the cavity between the foundation and studs away from the drywall. Then there is an air gap between the foam board and the drywall. I've talked myself in circles on whether poly is needed between the drywall and the studs. Some people say it's a must - others say it's how you get mold in your walls. What are your thoughts? (Building codes aside - i.e. if you could do it any way you wanted, for my application) Thanks so much and great videos! -Matt
R12 isn’t legal anywhere in Canada. Best to do 2 inch rigid foam directly against the foundation wall, a gap to allow for squaring of the walls and R14 Roxul. No vapour barrier needed
r12 is allowed in any structure with a n existing 2x4 construction. That is why they still sell it. You are right that they don't use it on new builds anymore.
I agree, I did 2” ridged foam right over the concrete walls then R15 thermal fiberglass and no vapor barrier (don’t want a vapor sandwich). Sealed the foam on all edges and also put 2” in the rim joist cavities and sealed with caulking and spray can foam. Air tight now! And the 2” foam was only $20 sheet. Spray foam is much more expensive than ridged (although the ultimate solution IMHO if you can afford it).
By putting the wrap on the outside and inside the 2x4's, aren't you creating a double barrier and actually trapping moisture in? Wouldn't it be easier to just use a faced insulation product?
@@MitchellCallahan Typar is for use above grade, since wind penetration is not usually a problem underground this is a waste of time and money, and yes I agree that you are creating more problems than you are solving.
More and more studies are saying that there should be NO plastic barriers in basements. You should let your walls breathe and dry out to the room. Otherwise you are trapping condensation. You have -10C outside and +25C inside. Its a huge difference in temps which can built condensation like crazy. And that pink insulation is terrible in repelling moisture and keeping its shape once its wet. That's why its preferable to use hard foam insulation in basements I believe. I love your vids Jeff but I think you got it wrong this time. Hope you have a perfectly dry basement.
Great video we bought a townhouse, the bathroom upstairs was redone, but the lady did not insulate the walls.. you can feel the cold from the exterior walls all three sides.. Now we have to diy the right way.. and install an exhaust fan
It is not stapled to the foundation wall side of the studs. The wall is built in place first, then the Typar wrapped around it on the foundation side. Then the Typar is stapled at the wall ends, on the living space side. This prevents the Typar from being pulled from any staples on the foundation side, creating holes in the Typar. If you are framing the wall on the floor and then lifting it into place, you do not attach the Typar until the wall is plumbed, for the same reason (to avoid tearing it).
I wouldn't use fiberglass insulation in the basement close to the floor or near a window it creates a wicking moisture issue leading to mold problems down the road.
Would it be recommended to glue styrofoam to the concrete foundation, then leave the air gap? In Alberta. It gets COLD haha. Previous owner glued styrofoam to the walls.
Hey Jeff, love the videos and I have been using them as a reference throughout the summer while I finish my basement. I have a question for you, I am just getting it ready for drywall finishing the vapour barrier and back framing. I had the rim joist spray foamed this summer, the foam is touching the top plate all the way around so I am just attaching the VB at the top plate and not to the floor above between the joists. Is this sufficient? FYI we are also in eastern Ontario for building codes etc. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
RE: musty smell. I just moved into a house with a finished basement. Theres access to see behind the walls in the mechanical room, and its done just like you are doing it here, but there's still a fairly prevalent musty smell. I believe it's because the wall to wall carpet and pad is on the concrete. Running the central air and dehumidifier helps some. Do you have any thoughts on the matter? I'm thinking about redoing the floors with air gap underlayment. I did watch your video on that subject as well.
the older the house the worse the environment. underlay helps dramatically fix this problem on older floors. In this case the carpet is the major problem. Cheers!
takes a lot of work to remove or peel back the carpet, but it helps..i first noticed the tack boards on the perimeter were rusting..put delta dimple board, then r5 eps foam, the wood sheathing, and put the rug back down..done..
Really enjoy your videos. That being said, wouldn't the moisture you are trying to prevent from comming into contact with the concrete need positive drainage? If the concrete is the wet side (potentially) your Typar overlap is working against you. Am I wrong?
Question about the paper you put behind the studs. You mentioned it's easier to put the paper up before you put up the studs but how do you attach it to the walls if the studs aren't already up? And thanks so much for these videos! Super helpful!
Great videos they have helped me a lot. But how much air space should I leave between my cinder block foundation and my frame work? And how would I frame out a window in a cinder block foundation?
Pittsburgh we use rigid insulation 11/2 or 2 inches or whatever on the block then we build our wall with an inch and a half Gap then fiberglass insulation then drywall just for if anyone wanted the information
I'm confused. In a later video, you recommend using basic fiberglass insulation for sound dampening a basement ceiling. Yet, you said it is useless in this video. Which one is it?
Your videos have been a great help doing some reno work in my basement! I was wondering what your thoughts are on using rigid insulation right against the exterior basement walls? After some water ingress last fall we had to put in a interior drain tile to sump pump (exterior solutions were not possible) and I am now working on re-framing the basement.
Thank You for Explaining the rim joist Cavity in the a House Build. I have Been trying to find the Answer of HOW DO YOU INSULATE THE BASEMENT FROM Ceiling to Floor. Rim Joist insulation information is INVALUABLE TO ME! Thank You for Explaining HOW TO Properly INSULATE!!!!
Great video as always! Couple questions.. (1).why not just use insulation with vapor barrier built in (2) why both typar on the back and plastic on the front... aren't you creating a pocket for moisture to collect?
This is awesome! I never thought of this. We are in South Carolina but are going to start doing the basement the typar/tyvek paper is what we need. Thanks!
I like your pragmatic approach to diy. I think I would definitely opt to use one of the smart barrier plastics over 6mil though. Just out of some concern moisture may get trapped in the cavity and soak the insulation. Good work though - not trying to be an arm chair QB. LOL
I am going to go through the building science on this topic again one day. It seems like a lot of people have the wrong understanding on how moisture travels.
What would you recommend for window openings since you said there needs to be a gap between the walls? I can't figure out how to "tunnel" that space from the inside wall through to the basement window, at least nothing that would look nice.
Very nice video. Thank you. should the typar lettering not face the concrete wall? correct me if i am wrong but I believe the transfer of moisture on these products is one directional. Great videos and thanks for all the content!
no worries, it is not a vapor barrier and it is only being used to hold the insulation in place so it will not fall out over time if the wood twists. Cheers!
Is that typar installed to the back of the stud wall or straight to the foundation wall? Also, instead would you recommend installing a 1/2”, 1” or even 2” rigid insulation right to the foundation wall, building your wall, putting in your batt insulation and then plastic vapour barrier, is is that over kill??
Thanks for the great vid. I subscribed. My whole house is like that basement. I live in Panama. Retired here. But all my walls are concrete. This time of year September - December is rainy season. I live at 3000’. It’s cold and damp. I’m freezing at night. The house gets mold and stinks. I need to do this in my bedroom at least. I have a music room too. That needs to be dry. I bought a large moveable dehumidifier that I turn on about 4 am. I can’t fill that up in about 3 hrs ! So, thanks for the help and I hope I can get those products here.
You can't glue your drywall to the studs when you use plastic so you will have to use more screws in the drywall. Also if the friction fit insulation settles you can get condensation on the back of the plastic where cold air came in contact with the plastic. I would rather use kraft faced insulation stapled between the studs. Just my opinion. Still like these videos.
Due to a french drain that runs in my concrete slab around the basement (for a sump pump), i'm having to frame my walls about one foot in from the concrete wall. how do i / should I insulate these walls with a 1 foot air gap? also the concrete walls already have a vapor barrier. thanks so much!
Hi Jeff, all your videos are very informative. I am thinking of finishing my basement and I do have a question. My basement exterior walls are already insulated from floor to ceiling and poly wrapped. For framing do I remove the insulation? As it's a 2 year built can I just frame it and add more insulation in the studs? How much space do I leave between the insulation and the studs? Thanks. Razack
I was really happy to see this tip about the tyvek. No longer. I suspect its a cheat that wont work. Yes there will b an air space, cool. I love air spaces. But in that air space there is a temperature difference, a gradient from the warm bottom of the wall to the cold top of the concrete. So there will be air floating up to the top of the wall and condensing on whatever is there. This puts numerous joists and other assembly parts at risk. If it cant dry it will die. I appreciate you noted cold air could creep out at the bottom of the wall if u leave insulation openings at the bottom
If youre in canada, i wouldnt do what this dude thinks works!!! Just like an icy glass of water in the summer sweating, you need a thermal break! What this dudes doing does NOT work for the long term... Even though youre insulating between the studs the studs themselves transfer heat/cold which will eventually lead to sweating which = moisture against that vapour barrier! This method is old school and foolish in my opinion... May meet code but will mold undoubtedly! Plus if youre a logical thinking, what do porous things do? Yep absord/wick moisture! In a basement it cant push itself outward so itll push itself inward unlike an upper level! So would you trust that think layer of tyvek?
@@jimhendrix7776 Brother, the only 6 Mil vapor barrier is on the inside of the 2x4. Now since the wall is roughly 1" from the Concrete Wall and the Tyvek/Typar Wrap is NOT a Vapor Barrier! It is a Water Diversion system. Now if you are worried about rotting out your Studs. In Canada, we have two ways to deal with it... 1) Pressure Treated 2x4's. MAKE SURE TO SEAL THEM IF YOU CUT ONE! 2) Use Spruce 2x4's and lay Plastic under it, personally I don't like this idea but it is CODE and acceptable So to answer your last question. With ANOTHER QUESTION. Why do they use it on the OUTSIDE of a house? In your opinion..the water will leach in and ROT your entire house. To use your facts. Water is WICKED by concrete...what kind of floor do you have? I am betting Concrete. Unless it is painted or sealed..the framing of the basement with a space of 1" will take care of all the water that accumulates, unless you have a serious water problem. Since the Batts of Insulation CAN NOT come in contact with the Concrete wall the chances of Moisture reaching it is Minimal! Even if water does get there Tyvek/Typar allows air to pass through it, so the Batts of Insulation will dry rather quickly. Hence NO MOLD!
Having framed custom homes and seeing other work many skip vapour barrier behind electrical boxes. In winter you definitely will feel a draft coming through those boxes. I think the new stuff is Owens Corning ecotouch insulation
Great video Jeff. The building codes here in Australia are somewhat pathetic when it comes to moisture barrier & wall insulation. Thank you for the amount of time & effort that you, Max, & the team put in to produce such high quality videos.
Not sure what your winters are like there. Usually vapor barriers are designed for cold climate. If you are hot most of the year having that plastic sheet may cause other problems. I will need to visit one day and figure that out while on the beach.
Hi Jeff. I cant tell you how much I have learned watching your videos. The typar looks to be "loose" at the back of the framing. Is this to allow for airflow? I am at this stage of my basement now and trust your experience. Btw, I also used you membrane flooring with 5/8" osb. I also added 5/8" rigid foam under the the osb. dry and warm.
When you put up the barrier You put it up after the fact you had your wall up Dies the barrier have to be stapled yo the wall or can you glue it on the basement wall then put up your wall then insulate it Fo you need a gap between the basement wall and the barrier
Yes and then we open the walls and remove the insulation so we can dry the framing. one it is dry again we add new insulation and close. having mineral wool insulation is not going to change that!
If you get enough water in your basement to cause damage to fiberglass you will need to remove the drywall anyway to allow the wall cavity to dry out to prevent mold growth. Mold grows in 24 hours in a damp wall cavity, either way you will be removing more components. There are pros and cons to each type of insulation.
One correction... pink insulation is approximately the same as the grey-green mineral wool stuff for sound insulation properties, although not for fire protection probably.
Great video! When you have an unfinished basement with that white insulated wrap on the walls, do you remove, it to do this type install of walls + insulation or do you incorporate it into your wall construction??
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Would you recommend this method for moisture as well, or would you aim at the foam board on the concrete for thermal/moisture? Having trouble understanding the reasoning for the various methods I've seen online. (also big fan, seen almost every video, some more than twice. Thanks for this channel. You're the dad I never had. lol)
Phillip Tyrael I hear ya there’s so many different methods I think I’m just gonna use foam board and glue it to the wall this seems like more work and I feel that the foam board will act like a vapor barrier I can’t decide
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY : If it just to hold in insulation, could I just attach lengths of thin strapping to the backside of studs before raising the wall in place?
That seems like a good idea and much easier. What kind of strapping are you thinking? Stapling the plastic behind the studs is proven to be a huge job and taking forever.
Vapor barriers on the inside should be overlapped with the top edge of each layer covering the bottom edge of the one above it. If it is done as shone on this video and condensation builds up on the back side of the vapor barrier it will just simply run into the insulated wall cavity.
I'm not an expert but I thought Typar allowed air flow in one direction, the black side through to the white side with the labels on it. moisture comes from the concrete walls, I think you would want this the other way around.
All your videos have been so helpful. My husband got impatient and couldn’t find a neighbor or assistant so he built one for the roll to sit on with a broom and two clamps! He was able to run the roll around all three sides continuously. You have made home renovations enjoyable!
great idea. I use a steel rod myself. Cheers!
Try building your wall on the floor,using a pressure treated bottom plate.With the wall on the floor staple the typar starting at the PT bottom plate working up in layers like a shingle(we used tar paper in the 1980's).When you stand the wall,the Typar goes to the foundation.Fasten to a chalked line on the above floor joists and shim bottom plate.If the wall is off the floor,fasten 2x4 blocks to bottom of wall near studs to anchor bottom of wall.
The exterior vapor barrier wasn't shingled to prevent condensation from dripping to the inside of the stud wall. 😥. You have to make sure to shingle top in front of bottom from the perspective of the side where the vapor comes from.
This guy should be on TV. So much knowledge. Great teacher. Glad I found his UA-cam channel. Hes the best!
I LOVE when you "talk code" ... it helps me look up codes in my area and gives me a ruff idea of where it should be. Keep it up brother!
You a bad boy. I'm second generation contractor. seen many. podcast on our industry. You're care about your audience and it's obvious. Keep up the awesome work bro. I'm Nelson The Painter from ATLANTA GA
love these vids..1 small improvement is to use Rockwool or go to the trouble of XPS foam. .Fiberglass is not recommended by Fine Home Building and most experts...If it gets wet , stays wet and I always find some mold in it during renos
After watching all kinds of DIY videos on insulating.. I'm going with closed cell foam in my basement. My foundation has almost 6 feet of visible concrete in the backyard. Condensation like crazy. I need a complete vapor lock.
Hi. Ok now i m a loyal member. I am pretty sure the only real way to safely insulate a basement is doing it right in the first place. Lots of drainage and exterior insulation. Since thats not an option once the house is built i m trying to plan my bsmt insulation. The house has been a creative redo on the two living floors, now the job is to insulate as well as possible the bsmt. Thks. Ian
You are so smart! Whenever I need to know how to do things, not only the correct way, but also the BEST way, you are IT! Thank you, Jeff!
This is not the correct way.
@@Bob_Lob_Law what is the correct way
I'm so happy to see someone in Ontario performing this work. It's a nightmare trying to piece together various videos on the same subjects for the code-centric knowledge required. Please keep it up!
Thanks, Cheers to Ontario.
R12 is not enough anywhere in Canada. You need to get to minimum R20.
r12 is still sufficient if the house is made of 2x4 walls and the existing insulation is r12
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So true ! I live near Peterborough, Ontario and took advantage of the Eco Energy Retrofit Program in 2010/2011. This house was advertised as having a Finished Basement which was so cold in the winter, I couldn't use the Rec Room. The Eco Energy Program Person said that I was losing most of my heat from the headers in the Basement. The people I purchased the house from had finished the basement with panelling (1968 style) using just a few 1/4" straps. No insulation behind the panelling. When I took down the 12"x12" ceiling tiles, there was no insulation in the Headers either. What I was required to do per the "program" was to caulk around the interior of each header, then add R12. Then I needed to add Pink Foam Board and caulk around that with Acoustical Sealant which was a royal pain in the butt however I passed the finished blow test having reached the highest Energy Efficiency for a house of this age. So I received a sticker to attach to my electrical panel stating that my home is 78% Energy Efficient, and a nice Cheque back in about 6 weeks after the passing the final test. And I'm not one bit sorry for doing all that work (I did the upstairs of this bungalow too). I still have the Book that came with the program stating the "proper procedures" for insulating every place in my home, but like everything else, those "procedures" seem to change like the weather! Love your Channel. Thank you for posting your videos with so many helpful tips!!!
@@Christine-wi1dl Thanks for sharing.We're doing the same here in Laval, Qc. Having a similar program, I decided to start the process and we're going to start by the outside of the house by removing all sidings and foam insulation and replacing it / fixing what we encounter. Did they do the test for the whole house or targetted the basement?
This is my step 1. I have to redo the insulation in my basement because ours is probably done on a monday or something because it looks like my kids did it. I might end up hiring a spray-foam company... but this is good!
I had a 4 inch gap in my in basement similar to this video and it didn't work. The gap was there because the basement was underpinned. I had moisture on the foundation wall behind the insulation. I know because I cut out a section to take a look when the basement started smelling mouldy. Location: Canada
Now I have spray foam insulation on the basement walls and there is no problem. You can probably use rigid foam insulation behind the wood frame, but you better seal every connection and have some channel on the bottom to catch any water and diver it to a drain so it doesn't get under your floor.
Michael what is your foundation? I’m about to spray foam my rubble foundation. I’m putting delta-ms on the inside, bottom 5ft, to allow a thermal break so moisture won’t linger in the mortar and freeze. Also put delta-ms on the exterior with a new weeping tile last year to prevent moisture coming in.
I’m in Alabama, so I am insulating against heat and humidity as well as somewhat cold winters. Thanks again for great videos😃
After gutting our basement, getting mold remediated, and putting in a french drain, I will be rebuilding the basement myself. I would like to use the system you show above, however, considering we were getting alot of moisture through the walls (100 year old house, poured concrete in northern NJ), I am wondering if I should also drylock the walls.
My questions are:
1. Will the typar and drylock create a space from which the humidity cannot escape and trap the moisture?
2. Is this overkill
Looking forward to hearing from you and thanks for the great channel!!
Wow!!!! What a great question. Since you are a member i will give you the full answer. The best way to keep moisture out is from the outside. Using drylock on the inside will definitely help However I would suggest using a vapor barrier with a french drain system so that you isolate the foundation from the living space. The use of an airspace is only valuable to homes that need to regularly transfer moisture to the framing and ultimately to the outside through relative humidity transfer that don't have a french drain. Once you install the drain you can effectively separate the outside wall from the interior wall with a vapor barrier and eliminate the need for moisture transfer to the framing. This is a much more ideal system and will result in lower energy costs as well. If you need clarification feel free to call me on the callmart app. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!!!! that is super helpful! Would love to get on a call for 5 minutes if you have the time to make sure I fully understand. How do I go about connecting on the callmart app?
Hi Eyal, I will repost the instructions in the community post in a few seconds. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi Jeff, I just tried calling 3 times on call mart, it picks up, then immediately hangs up, I then immediately received 3 charges on my card for $18.71. not sure what I am doing wrong
@@eyaldimant6824 contact a reputable sprayfoam company and have them spray the concrete directly. It will solve all your issues, I live in Ontario where moisture is a big problem. Batts/poly is just a cheap system for what the cost of spraying is/what it gives in return. We sprayed an entire 4000sqft house, no moisture problems and the homeowners heating bills are less than half of the neighbours with similar sized homes.
Jeff Thorman is a good practical teacher.
I am also a little over weight but working on that. Cheers!
The music was really Pink Floyd-esque, love it!
Getting ready to turn my garage into a music studio on the other side of the world. Can't imagine what would I do without these videos on this channel. Thanks so much!!!!!
You make everything look so easy wish I can be more efficient like you
Thanks for all the clearly recorded footage and inspirational narrative. Even I am feeling MUCH more informed, if not capable to do this stuff myself!!
Had a flooded finished basement due to untoward weather event last February in Western OR. The house was built in 1952 with many modifications since, mostly unpermitted. Basement work was permitted in around 10 years ago which included lining the foundation with black plastic not attached to studs, then paperless fiberglass between studs down to rest on pressure treated wood which is secured to a slab that undoubtedly was poured without a barrier beneath. The finish is regular drywall and on the floor 6mil poly and click cork panel-lovely and warm.
I'm left with 2ft flood cuts and am "ready" to restore the downstairs.The wood in studs and on the floor show no sign of water exposure and the batting which was removed had no visible mold/mildew. While I'm not expecting water intrusion again, I still want to move ahead in a manner that takes into account the possiblity of vapor and more. I can't afford overkill, so...
Do I:
1) tear out the drywall and plastic
---and spray on closed cell or put in foam panels-if so, do I have to use some spray in behind the studs
---use typar or tyvec as you have demonstrated, then batting
2) leave the system as is and just replace the batting
3) replace the drwall with same or with cement board?
I am definitely going to use a dimple mat this time around and if I want to go with cork again, would I use 1-step and then just lay the cork atop or for "better safe than sorry" go with DMX, plywood then LVT?
Hi Janet, Wow That is one doozy of a question. First of all let me say that weather events happen. And when you get a flooded basement there is little you can do in the building system to protect you for every possible occasion. Having said that I have found that simple building systems and the following trick will help make the restoration process really quick and painless. First since 8 out of ten water events in a basement are less than 2 Inches I always suggest to people that are prone to regular water events they can install blocking in the wall at 6 inches from the floor and then insulate above that. This enables the restoration crew to remove the baseboards and just drill holes in the drywall that will be covered up by the baseboards later. The fans can then circulate behinds the walls to dry everything out.
since you are using a cork floor it can be removed and reinstalled. When the drying is done simply put the floor and baseboards back on and maybe a touch up paint on the trim and you are good to go. If you are looking for a permanent solution you need to waterproof the exterior walls outside to the weeping tile. Make sure any windows have drainage tile in them as well and cover the wells in the winter so that you don't get a thaw freeze effect getting water around the sill of the window. Have a sump pit and as a last measure install an interior perimeter drain attached to the sump pit. This pit needs a second pump as a backup with a battery backup and perhaps an alarm with notification to your phone.
This can be in excess of $40,000 and needs to be a value to you. Everything else in between will fail and so will this technique if you get more than 2 inches.
In closing we love the space the bathroom provides but we need to remember they are susceptible to these types of problems and balance out the investment with the benefit for yourself.
Insurance companies will not change their protocol for flood response based on your building system but they will do the drilling and air movement if it is clean water and that is over 90 % of the cases.
Good luck I hope this helps. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to even read my long winded query... AND then respond.
While noone can see the future, the past 22 years in this house have never seen water incurison-even during a flat out flood (we are not in any kind of flood zone), so I am hoping this was a one time freak event.
Your minimalistic approach appeals to me. By Blocking, do you mean put some EPS in up against the plastic that is thereperpendicular to the floor-like a fire block sort of situation, then isul;ate above with batting. If I don't insulate those bottom 6 inches won't that be asking for condensation to form as I will be heating the basement.
I really appreciate just having someone to ask. Thank you again.
Hi Janet, unless you are heating your basement at the floor there will be no change in temperature at the floor level. The walls and floor are the same temperature year round at that level and as such causes no condensation. Your best solution is to spray foam the walls , however that comes with an additional cost. usually triple the cost of batt.
Ah, I see. if I go with your idea of blocking at 6 inches and batts above that, can you describe the blocking more?
Thank you so.
Can you do a video on Finishing a basement with sump pumps? Please I would love to remodel my Basement.
That was helpful. Our fishing clubhouse three sides underground and is musty. No a/c. So was wondering how to tear walls out and properly insulate. You answered my question. I noticed your helper scratching his arms. So much for itch free insulation.
BTW, your videos, all of them, are so educational. I learn so much from it.
Man you are a gift to us DIY guys
Thanks for the video. Correct me if I'm wrong but there seems to be some consensus that vapor barrier films or paper are a bad idea for basements. Underground walls need to breath so moisture is never trapped on one side or the other. Also, fiberglass has also been thought of as a no no due to mold and mildew issues. I have been taught that the best and most cost effective method to insulate the basement is xps foam board Directly against the concrete wall followed by framing and then something like roxul between the studs for extra R-value.
Again thanks for the videos. I have learned a lot.
The typar is not a vapor barrier. It is a house wrap that is designed to divert water. it does not trap vapor.
Always best to refer to the local building code. I personally don't like any system in contact with my concrete. Iy wakes it so hard to identify and repair any future problems.
I understand. I did notice this in some building codes but here in New England it is not necessarily a requirement.
I'm working on remodeling my house and have worked construction jobs in the past renovating basements. Ever situation with a poly film or fiberglass near the wall has revealed a lot of trapped moisture and dark mold. You can imagine there will be condensation on the concrete when it is cold and transitions into a warm space within the dwelling, so it makes sense that you leave an air gap and prevent any contact.
Thanks again for the information.
vapor barrier is to be set on a warm side. In your area that may be more frequent on the concrete side of the wall trapping moisture in the framing.
I, and I beleive most other building scientists would not recomend this sort of assembly. In some areas code will require a vapor barrier on the conditioned side of the wall assembly. However the solution shown in the video has a couple problems . First I dont ever like to see fiberglass insulation in basements, and I see no excuse for that. Second Typar is only 10-15 perms. If the basement were to experiance a flooding event it would not allow water in the trapped cavity to escape fast enough to prevent mold growth. Even if it was 50 perms the water vapor would just be escaping into the enclosed cavity behind the wall until the humidity was near 100%. A better way to do this assemply is to use MemBrain instead of the poly barrier. This vapor retarder becomes vapor open when the humidity gets too high in the wall cavity, allowing water vapor to escape. I would personally also nix the typar altogether as its not really doing anything at that point.
LOL The best solution for a basement is a simple one. I have seen for years people trying to make the basement a living addition to the home and then they get flooded and start over again. Why invest huge amounts of money into a temporary space. Get bang for your buck but put your best living spaces above grade.
Ontario code since 2012 requires a minimum of R20 for newcon and reno in a basement. Its better to use 2" xps or polyiso, sealed foam edges, a poly strip at the bottom , then do a 2x4 frame wall with pt baseplate with an R16 Roxul in between.
How far off the concrete wall do you recommend framing the wall? And, what product do you use against the concrete wall?
Hello, I just wanted to say that I really have learned a lot from your videos . I just bought a house a little more than a year ago in Alaska and figuring out how I should approach this fixer upper has been a challenge. Your channel has been really helpful. You have a great personality and it makes it not seem so overwhelming. Thank you for all your advice.
So true ! awesome man !
I'm renovating my first home and thanks to you I'm able to do it all with your tutorials. Joining your club for personal QnA 😎👌
I see you do one wall in this video (and show a laundry room that may or may not have been insulated the same way. Does this system require all walls to be insulated in the same way? Will it fail if there is one wall that isn't insulated? Would you insulate the exterior wall of the laundry room or would you insulate the interior wall of the laundry room?
Wow! Thank you for the very clear info! When our neighbor's pool split open this summer, we pulled back the wood panelling to allow for proper drying ... and found zero plastic sheeting and puny little white styrofoam blocs with huge air gaps...no wonder our basement is always cold and humid. (We're in Montreal).
WOW, sounds like you need a major overhaul. Best of luck with that.
Hey Jeff! You are AWESOME! Such a good teacher. Please keep the videos coming!
Hi Jeff - I think I've talked myself in circles on how to PROPERLY construct the walls for my application. Can you check my thinking?
Quick information about my home and weather - I think it matters...I'm not in a nice warm state...I'm in Northern Ohio, so we have temperatures down to below zero to 100*F. My house was built in 1968-1969, so I have a cinder block foundation. No water proofing on the exterior. After addressing drainage outside, I'm able to keep the basement at around 45% humidity with a box store dehumidifier.
I will install a whole house dehumidifier to take even more moisture out of the air.
I plan to stay off the block wall an inch or more, just for an air barrier so the block can breath and let moisture transfer if needed. Treated lumber on the floor and regular wood studs (not metal) for the framing. For insulation, since there is a chance of moisture from the foundation, I am looking at foam board.
Could I just use a standard 1" thick "pink" foam board for insulation between the studs? Then use GreatStuff to hold the foam board to the studs. I think foam board might be best for my application since it will not wick up water... should I get some moisture/water coming through the block down the road.
NO poly and green (mold "resistant") drywall and done.
My big question is on NOT using poly or any vapor barrier. Since my foundation could get wet in rare cases, my thought is the foam board would help keep the moist air in the cavity between the foundation and studs away from the drywall. Then there is an air gap between the foam board and the drywall.
I've talked myself in circles on whether poly is needed between the drywall and the studs. Some people say it's a must - others say it's how you get mold in your walls.
What are your thoughts? (Building codes aside - i.e. if you could do it any way you wanted, for my application)
Thanks so much and great videos!
-Matt
R12 isn’t legal anywhere in Canada. Best to do 2 inch rigid foam directly against the foundation wall, a gap to allow for squaring of the walls and R14 Roxul. No vapour barrier needed
r12 is allowed in any structure with a n existing 2x4 construction. That is why they still sell it. You are right that they don't use it on new builds anymore.
2inch foam will cost $35 a panel. Hell with that
I used a variation of Thermafiber/ Owens Corning products , sound control , moisture control, accessibility ... best products for FG and mineral wool.
@@vanderumd11 closed cell spray, not rigid.
I agree, I did 2” ridged foam right over the concrete walls then R15 thermal fiberglass and no vapor barrier (don’t want a vapor sandwich). Sealed the foam on all edges and also put 2” in the rim joist cavities and sealed with caulking and spray can foam. Air tight now! And the 2” foam was only $20 sheet. Spray foam is much more expensive than ridged (although the ultimate solution IMHO if you can afford it).
Thanks Sir. Really a huge help. Saved me thousands.
By putting the wrap on the outside and inside the 2x4's, aren't you creating a double barrier and actually trapping moisture in? Wouldn't it be easier to just use a faced insulation product?
Guy Julian the outside one is breathable.
@@MitchellCallahan the plastic wrapping is breathable????? Or not??
@@MitchellCallahan Typar is for use above grade, since wind penetration is not usually a problem underground this is a waste of time and money, and yes I agree that you are creating more problems than you are solving.
I want all my future basement remodels done like this.
A pretty good fix for an older home. Cheers!
More and more studies are saying that there should be NO plastic barriers in basements. You should let your walls breathe and dry out to the room. Otherwise you are trapping condensation. You have -10C outside and +25C inside. Its a huge difference in temps which can built condensation like crazy. And that pink insulation is terrible in repelling moisture and keeping its shape once its wet. That's why its preferable to use hard foam insulation in basements I believe. I love your vids Jeff but I think you got it wrong this time. Hope you have a perfectly dry basement.
I like the way that you explain everything, very clear to undertand....
Love the video! Just had a question, is the writing on the Typar not supposed to face out?
Great video we bought a townhouse, the bathroom upstairs was redone, but the lady did not insulate the walls.. you can feel the cold from the exterior walls all three sides.. Now we have to diy the right way.. and install an exhaust fan
The Typar should be flipped the other way. The logo side repels water and the grey side let's it breath
Really enjoying this series... gives us all rookies the confidence lol
Thanks JustNel, We are trying to help people save a ton of money!
hey I had a question. You said you were going to staple the typar to the studs. How exactly did you do that because I didnt find it in the video.
He actually pulled the ends of the typar around to the front of the framing (at either end) and stapled to the front, I believe.
He doesn't, you can tell when he pushes the insulation against it, it moves.
It is not stapled to the foundation wall side of the studs. The wall is built in place first, then the Typar wrapped around it on the foundation side. Then the Typar is stapled at the wall ends, on the living space side. This prevents the Typar from being pulled from any staples on the foundation side, creating holes in the Typar. If you are framing the wall on the floor and then lifting it into place, you do not attach the Typar until the wall is plumbed, for the same reason (to avoid tearing it).
I wouldn't use fiberglass insulation in the basement close to the floor or near a window it creates a wicking moisture issue leading to mold problems down the road.
Would it be recommended to glue styrofoam to the concrete foundation, then leave the air gap? In Alberta. It gets COLD haha. Previous owner glued styrofoam to the walls.
Thanks for that video ! How did you fix the first barier ( charcoal paper ) ?
Do you need space between the concreate and this paper ?
Hey Jeff, love the videos and I have been using them as a reference throughout the summer while I finish my basement. I have a question for you, I am just getting it ready for drywall finishing the vapour barrier and back framing. I had the rim joist spray foamed this summer, the foam is touching the top plate all the way around so I am just attaching the VB at the top plate and not to the floor above between the joists. Is this sufficient? FYI we are also in eastern Ontario for building codes etc. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
RE: musty smell. I just moved into a house with a finished basement. Theres access to see behind the walls in the mechanical room, and its done just like you are doing it here, but there's still a fairly prevalent musty smell. I believe it's because the wall to wall carpet and pad is on the concrete. Running the central air and dehumidifier helps some. Do you have any thoughts on the matter? I'm thinking about redoing the floors with air gap underlayment. I did watch your video on that subject as well.
the older the house the worse the environment. underlay helps dramatically fix this problem on older floors. In this case the carpet is the major problem. Cheers!
takes a lot of work to remove or peel back the carpet, but it helps..i first noticed the tack boards on the perimeter were rusting..put delta dimple board, then r5 eps foam, the wood sheathing, and put the rug back down..done..
Great video, this one has helped me in the planning stages of my DIY basement build project. Great tips! Thank you! Much appreciated!
Love how simple you keep things in your videos. Thanks.
Thanks Jerry, It really is simple in most cases.
Really enjoy your videos. That being said, wouldn't the moisture you are trying to prevent from comming into contact with the concrete need positive drainage? If the concrete is the wet side (potentially) your Typar overlap is working against you. Am I wrong?
Thank you for making high quality full length videos.
Our pleasure Red Yumi, We try to get better all the time.
Hey Jeff. What are your thoughts on spray foam insulation vs the batt insulation for a basement?
Question about the paper you put behind the studs. You mentioned it's easier to put the paper up before you put up the studs but how do you attach it to the walls if the studs aren't already up? And thanks so much for these videos! Super helpful!
Don't. The idea is to install the wall with a gap to the concrete. You really want the air space between the paper and the concrete wall. Cheers!
How much air space do you leave between the wall and the 2x4s?
Great videos they have helped me a lot. But how much air space should I leave between my cinder block foundation and my frame work? And how would I frame out a window in a cinder block foundation?
how long has Dave Matthews been installing insulation? dude knows what's up!
Pittsburgh we use rigid insulation 11/2 or 2 inches or whatever on the block then we build our wall with an inch and a half Gap then fiberglass insulation then drywall just for if anyone wanted the information
I'm confused. In a later video, you recommend using basic fiberglass insulation for sound dampening a basement ceiling. Yet, you said it is useless in this video. Which one is it?
Lol let the salesman sell
Thanks for the video! Very meticulous. It was like this place your basement! 😂 no cutting corners.
Your videos have been a great help doing some reno work in my basement! I was wondering what your thoughts are on using rigid insulation right against the exterior basement walls? After some water ingress last fall we had to put in a interior drain tile to sump pump (exterior solutions were not possible) and I am now working on re-framing the basement.
I was thinking about rigid foam too, and also metal framing. How is your progress?
Thank You for Explaining the rim joist Cavity in the a House Build. I have Been trying to find the Answer of HOW DO YOU INSULATE THE BASEMENT FROM Ceiling to Floor. Rim Joist insulation information is INVALUABLE TO ME! Thank You for Explaining HOW TO Properly INSULATE!!!!
seems pretty knowledgeable, and a decent guy definitely not an insulation professional,
I’m in Alabama, so I’m insulating against outside heat and humidity as well as cold winters. Thanks again
Doesn't having two vapor barriers with insulation in between allow for a mold sandwich?
The TYPAR is not a vapor barrier, it's a wind barrier.
Great video as always! Couple questions.. (1).why not just use insulation with vapor barrier built in (2) why both typar on the back and plastic on the front... aren't you creating a pocket for moisture to collect?
hi david, there is no such thing as insulation with a vapor barrier on it. second typar is not a vapor barrier so no worries there.
The exterior barrier behind the insulation, it appears to not be fixed to the wall except or the corner studs, is that correct?
Huge fan of your channel, I see some people stating not to use the 6mm vapor barrier and it causes more problems. Your thoughts.
Thanks for the vid. Is the soundtrack to 'Lethal Weapon' playing in the background? RIGGGSSS!!!
I'm getting way too old for this shit Riggs....
Lol loved those movies !
..miss the old days
This is awesome! I never thought of this. We are in South Carolina but are going to start doing the basement the typar/tyvek paper is what we need. Thanks!
I'm getting itchy just watching you handle that insulation raw dawg.
the assistant was itching his hand 10:25
At one point he put it up to his face and smelled it or something
The Owens Corning pink insulation kinda smells like maple syrup. @@joewellindowd5664
The newer Owens Corning pink doesn't itch. It's very soft and comfortable to work with.
I like your pragmatic approach to diy. I think I would definitely opt to use one of the smart barrier plastics over 6mil though. Just out of some concern moisture may get trapped in the cavity and soak the insulation. Good work though - not trying to be an arm chair QB. LOL
I am going to go through the building science on this topic again one day. It seems like a lot of people have the wrong understanding on how moisture travels.
What would you recommend for window openings since you said there needs to be a gap between the walls? I can't figure out how to "tunnel" that space from the inside wall through to the basement window, at least nothing that would look nice.
Very nice video. Thank you. should the typar lettering not face the concrete wall? correct me if i am wrong but I believe the transfer of moisture on these products is one directional.
Great videos and thanks for all the content!
no worries, it is not a vapor barrier and it is only being used to hold the insulation in place so it will not fall out over time if the wood twists. Cheers!
Is that typar installed to the back of the stud wall or straight to the foundation wall? Also, instead would you recommend installing a 1/2”, 1” or even 2” rigid insulation right to the foundation wall, building your wall, putting in your batt insulation and then plastic vapour barrier, is is that over kill??
can you post a link for the pink insulation you used, a link for the clear plastic vapor wrap you stapled on at the end, and the red tape please.
10:25 "This insulation is not itchy!"
Thanks for the great vid. I subscribed. My whole house is like that basement. I live in Panama. Retired here. But all my walls are concrete. This time of year September - December is rainy season. I live at 3000’. It’s cold and damp. I’m freezing at night. The house gets mold and stinks. I need to do this in my bedroom at least. I have a music room too. That needs to be dry. I bought a large moveable dehumidifier that I turn on about 4 am. I can’t fill that up in about 3 hrs ! So, thanks for the help and I hope I can get those products here.
Sounds like you need to condition the air better before closing everything up. Perhaps a foundation waterproofing as well.
You can't glue your drywall to the studs when you use plastic so you will have to use more screws in the drywall. Also if the friction fit insulation settles you can get condensation on the back of the plastic where cold air came in contact with the plastic. I would rather use kraft faced insulation stapled between the studs. Just my opinion. Still like these videos.
Due to a french drain that runs in my concrete slab around the basement (for a sump pump), i'm having to frame my walls about one foot in from the concrete wall. how do i / should I insulate these walls with a 1 foot air gap? also the concrete walls already have a vapor barrier. thanks so much!
Do you recommend covering the bare concrete wall with a product like Drylok or something similar?
I'm using Drylok Pro, on the inside wall as well as it has additional mildew resistance.
Hi Jeff, all your videos are very informative. I am thinking of finishing my basement and I do have a question. My basement exterior walls are already insulated from floor to ceiling and poly wrapped. For framing do I remove the insulation? As it's a 2 year built can I just frame it and add more insulation in the studs? How much space do I leave between the insulation and the studs? Thanks. Razack
the insulation system you are using must be removed if you build walls. Start from scratch.
No plastic sheet around the octagon box. The vent (plumbing) needs a support half way down wall or more!
Humblehombre how do you put plastic around the octogon?
I was really happy to see this tip about the tyvek. No longer. I suspect its a cheat that wont work. Yes there will b an air space, cool. I love air spaces. But in that air space there is a temperature difference, a gradient from the warm bottom of the wall to the cold top of the concrete. So there will be air floating up to the top of the wall and condensing on whatever is there. This puts numerous joists and other assembly parts at risk. If it cant dry it will die. I appreciate you noted cold air could creep out at the bottom of the wall if u leave insulation openings at the bottom
Do you recommend this method instead of using SM rigid foam sheets up against the foundation? (in nothern ontario climate)
If youre in canada, i wouldnt do what this dude thinks works!!! Just like an icy glass of water in the summer sweating, you need a thermal break! What this dudes doing does NOT work for the long term... Even though youre insulating between the studs the studs themselves transfer heat/cold which will eventually lead to sweating which = moisture against that vapour barrier! This method is old school and foolish in my opinion... May meet code but will mold undoubtedly!
Plus if youre a logical thinking, what do porous things do? Yep absord/wick moisture! In a basement it cant push itself outward so itll push itself inward unlike an upper level! So would you trust that think layer of tyvek?
Do not use batt insulation in a basement. This is an awful idea and I have no idea what this man was thinking.
@@jimhendrix7776 Brother, the only 6 Mil vapor barrier is on the inside of the 2x4. Now since the wall is roughly 1" from the Concrete Wall and the Tyvek/Typar Wrap is NOT a Vapor Barrier! It is a Water Diversion system. Now if you are worried about rotting out your Studs.
In Canada, we have two ways to deal with it...
1) Pressure Treated 2x4's. MAKE SURE TO SEAL THEM IF YOU CUT ONE!
2) Use Spruce 2x4's and lay Plastic under it, personally I don't like this idea but it is CODE and acceptable
So to answer your last question. With ANOTHER QUESTION.
Why do they use it on the OUTSIDE of a house? In your opinion..the water will leach in and ROT your entire house.
To use your facts. Water is WICKED by concrete...what kind of floor do you have? I am betting Concrete. Unless it is painted or sealed..the framing of the basement with a space of 1" will take care of all the water that accumulates, unless you have a serious water problem. Since the Batts of Insulation CAN NOT come in contact with the Concrete wall the chances of Moisture reaching it is Minimal! Even if water does get there Tyvek/Typar allows air to pass through it, so the Batts of Insulation will dry rather quickly. Hence NO MOLD!
Thanks for the video! We just built a new house & will be doing this part ourselves in our basement!
Love all your videos. Have help me a lot.
so glad to hear. That is why we are here. Cheers!
Having framed custom homes and seeing other work many skip vapour barrier behind electrical boxes. In winter you definitely will feel a draft coming through those boxes. I think the new stuff is Owens Corning ecotouch insulation
Great video Jeff. The building codes here in Australia are somewhat pathetic when it comes to moisture barrier & wall insulation. Thank you for the amount of time & effort that you, Max, & the team put in to produce such high quality videos.
Not sure what your winters are like there. Usually vapor barriers are designed for cold climate. If you are hot most of the year having that plastic sheet may cause other problems. I will need to visit one day and figure that out while on the beach.
Hi Jeff. I cant tell you how much I have learned watching your videos. The typar looks to be "loose" at the back of the framing. Is this to allow for airflow? I am at this stage of my basement now and trust your experience. Btw, I also used you membrane flooring with 5/8" osb. I also added 5/8" rigid foam under the the osb. dry and warm.
why did you overlap the water barrier the way you did? If moisture flows down it will flow into the insulation, no?
there is no moisture flowing down the interior of the building. I am simply using a n inexpensive material to hold the insulation against the frame.
When you put up the barrier You put it up after the fact you had your wall up Dies the barrier have to be stapled yo the wall or can you glue it on the basement wall then put up your wall then insulate it Fo you need a gap between the basement wall and the barrier
Once you get water in your basement, you will never use fiberglass insulation again. Rockwool is the way to go .
If you have water coming into your basement you have bigger issues than what type of ins=you use.
Yes and then we open the walls and remove the insulation so we can dry the framing. one it is dry again we add new insulation and close. having mineral wool insulation is not going to change that!
How about rigid foam insulation?
If you get enough water in your basement to cause damage to fiberglass you will need to remove the drywall anyway to allow the wall cavity to dry out to prevent mold growth. Mold grows in 24 hours in a damp wall cavity, either way you will be removing more components. There are pros and cons to each type of insulation.
One correction... pink insulation is approximately the same as the grey-green mineral wool stuff for sound insulation properties, although not for fire protection probably.
Can mold grow between the cement and the Typar?
Yup
It's like EVIL,it can grow anywhere
Great video! When you have an unfinished basement with that white insulated wrap on the walls, do you remove, it to do this type install of walls + insulation or do you incorporate it into your wall construction??
Are you talking about that mat fiberglass like blanket that's nailed to the block?
you may have incorrectly overlapped your house wrap.
no worries richard, it isn't being used to deflect water just hold in insulation.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Would you recommend this method for moisture as well, or would you aim at the foam board on the concrete for thermal/moisture? Having trouble understanding the reasoning for the various methods I've seen online.
(also big fan, seen almost every video, some more than twice. Thanks for this channel. You're the dad I never had. lol)
Phillip Tyrael I hear ya there’s so many different methods I think I’m just gonna use foam board and glue it to the wall this seems like more work and I feel that the foam board will act like a vapor barrier I can’t decide
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY : If it just to hold in insulation, could I just attach lengths of thin strapping to the backside of studs before raising the wall in place?
That seems like a good idea and much easier. What kind of strapping are you thinking? Stapling the plastic behind the studs is proven to be a huge job and taking forever.
What have you stapled your vapor barrier to? Is it to the exterior wall or behind the 2x4?
Éric Fournier @2:12 he says staple to 2x4