Відео

Lol, gee...this centuey is committed to being sheep just like hawking warned world yas would be back at turn of century...anyway...reality is in rwl world. And like.to.remknd u all, 90% of internet is a joke and fsrse!!!...just look at life in last decade and how free world and free will societies all being groomed with ease knto socialism Also, in this case. I am a 35 yr experienced master builder and contractor.....I used internet from stsrt to finish on 100 and 100 of my jobs. Real.jkbs by me!!..real person. Show the work show ur babble here lol. Cause they r bullshit folks. Ice and water has nothing to do with ice damming. It's aboit wwrer resistance to sheeting on a dam.roof. ice dams are all aboit venting and attic space and energy efficient homes. Ice amd water is somlly water membrane...nkthing more. That's fre lesson. From me;)

This is excellent information. Would this be a viable solution for a 2x6 framed garage that only has horizontal strapping and then metal siding? Trying to find a way to insulate and heat my garage without creating very expensive problems down the road

I've never heard any suggestion that this prevents ice dam formation. It's intended to prevent water intrusion, nothing else. Ice dam formation is a temperature issue.

How much would closed cell spray foam change all the numbers?

So I was just getting ready to dig up my foundation to add waterproofing, weeping tile, and insulation. I was planning on using eps foam. Two layers of 1.5 inches staggered seams. With dimple membrane over top. Is there anything I can do too avoid bug burrowing into the foam? I’m in Alberta Canada so bugs are only an issue for half of the year but still something I would like to avoid.

Why is there humid air in a conditioned space? Seems like the problem isn't that you've brought the entire attic into the conditioned envelope but that your not actually conditioning the space.

Vapor barrier, is just that. Not going to help with moisture.

Was wondering if you could do a more extensive video on interior vapour retarders such as intello and siga, I watched the short one and was left with some questions like are there situations where it’s less effective and how effective they truly are in comparison to exterior air barrier and exterior insulation, thanks for all the content

Did you mean to say cold HUMID air at 5:55?

Really love your content. No nonsense, just the science that keep buildings around for a long time.

Content: 😊 BG loop: 😵‍💫

Here in Iceland it's common to run a heated wire around the edges of the roof and gutters.

The correct solution is at @3:03 , Single layer roofs is a disaster waiting to happen. Second layer can be Steel, Aluminium, clay tiles, concrete tiles, but the air gap underneath them is a must in any climate that has snow in the winter.

We do use. an HT layer with metal roofs, but I’ve worried that with closed cell insulation you could trap moisture in the sheathing. In our climate zone we don’t have freezing, but I like it better when we can put exterior insulation on the roof.

Short anwer, yes. The key is a 4" minimum drip edge. Syphoning is pretty non-existent above 4" of vertical displacement. You are welcome.

Thank you again for your effort and helping us figure out our options for better homes

To quote an old carpenter friend of mine: "Once air conditioning was invented, there is no reason to live like that anymore...."

Added advantage to Mineral wool is that mice hate it

For an unvented assembly in climate zone 6a with exterior rigid insulation and metal cladding, where does an entangled mesh get specified and why? I've seen you mention this on your other videos.

What is the benefit of an air control layer on the outside of the roof when the interior needs to be either vented already? it’s venting under that air control layer anyway? Same if we have the overroof assembly from Joe Lstiburek? I get the benefit of not having bulk water sit on the sheathing, but this won’t provide any increased air tightness?

Another amazing video. Thank you.

Great info! I just did a metal roof with full peal and stick with venting instead of mechanical fastened synthetic underlayment for the reasons you mentioned in the video. Glad to get some reassurance as this was my first roof done this way. Again, great video as always, packed full of useful and CORRECT info!

This is great information but installing a system like this on many old houses would cost as much as the house itself. A more practical approach would be useful also.

Your anecdotal evidence influencing against massively popular and studied materials is hilarious. Do not listen to this guy.

Could your insulation choices include any kind of hemp product ? Hemp or Hemp-crete lime additive based products don't get used much in north America YET but is hemp insulation even on your radar ?

Would you do anything on the inside of the ICF basement in terms of vapor?

Wtf. The music. Annoying

How do I seal my basement from bugs and small rodents. I live in a condo situation and have unfriendly neighbors along with mice droppings in the basement.i was thinking spray foam but agree with your opinion that it’s not the best solution. Thnx

Unrelated to video, but good place to ask. I have a roof that consists of engineered truss(2x4) - 3.5” Rockwool - 1/2”OSB - synthetic self adhered underlayment (not vapor permeable) - 2 layers of 2” ISO. (GRF) Question is do I need a deck on top of that or will a underlayment and wood purlins only be satisfactory for 24ga standing metal seam roof? Vapor permeable roof membranes appear to be very pricey, any particular brands or substitutes? I’m in central Florida Thanks

What would be a good way to insulate a shed with no sheating, just framing and painted siding, in hot humid South. Will be running a mini split for air conditioning inside, plus a dehumidifier. Would rigid foam board cut to fit inside each stud bay and soray foamed around the edges be good?

How long does under slab insulation last... I can't image it lasting more than 20-25 years, then what??? I don't get it, the insulation is going to degrade well before the concrete so your concrete slab is now floating or collapsing, no?

Excellent video! I'm planning a whole house remodel in climate zone 5a and I am planning on using 4" of mineral wool on exterior walls and unvented roof with a 3.5" batt in the wall cavity and 12" against the underside of the roof deck. That's only an R-31 for the wall, but I'm limited by the existing 2x4 wall framing and don't want to sacrifice any interior space for more depth. Anyway, it's good to know that I'm on the right track.

What about cmu foundations with header block?

We have used spray foam in Northern California mostly successfully, and primarily on roof undersides. It is often used in modern designs where it is difficult to get a high level of insulation otherwise. However a system where we have used with rigid above the deck and batt insulation before seems better all around. For the spray foam, there was one case where a porch metal roof developed a condensation problem where the spray foam had a void (either because it was not carefully applied around an electrical box or didn't adhere). This is even though this was a completely exterior space and a dry climate.

The biggest problem with every insulation is installation error. Most contractors just slap it up and don't care about the details

Another great video, thank you. I would love to have exterior mineral wool insulation for my basement, but that's probably not in the budget. So if we use interior insulation for the basement, what happens at the transition to the above grade exterior insulation? If the insulation isn't continuous, wouldn't that be a big gap?

Very similar to a big walk in freezer slab.

The ICF information is very timely. “Fully adhered waterproof membrane” - can you give some examples of what products? We will have to excavate to correct this oversight by the contractor. This will probably somewhat damage this fragile material and no doubt it will be dirty. (Sharif, this is for a second building - and the second time I will have to redo a foundation. This one is already seeping water into the basement.)

For simplicity sake, the Zip-R system solves this issue assuming you still do a rain screen correct? I’m in Zone 4 so if I roll with their lower end R3 or R6 panels that alleviates the thermal bridging I would experience?

What do you think about using EIFS instead of rockwool comfortboard?

I have an old house with 5” rafters, and the third floor is an attic conversion. The slanted roof gets hot to the touch in summer. Zero insulation, no soffit vents, blocking at the top of pony walls preventing air flow to the ridge. I’d been leaning towards spray foam to get the air seal and R value without having to vent. I’d also like a condition the top attic space to add AC. Any recommendations? I’m hoping to add insulation exterior eventually but not immediately. I’m in Seattle, which is climate zone 4.

Question: what would you recommend on a metal garage for insulation and prevent condensation if not foam? Great videos, thank you.

I think done properly, 2 lb commercial spray foam becomes inert from 2 hours to 24 based on resin used. Beyond that, and it simply wasn't mixed properly.

I believe there`s a couple of spray foam brands with no off gassing. You have any experience with them?

looking for information on how to retro a shallow footing to FPSF. All the videos I've seen show new construction.

Love the videos! Sharif has learned from the "best" of the best. Q&A question for you. I have a project in climate zone 6A. As I agree with you on spray foam, it is not recommended. I use Rockwool insulation almost exclusively. My current project has a complete exterior insulation blanket of 6” including the foundation on the outside. The roof will also receive exterior tapered insulation. The west elevation sees the lake breeze every day as it is very near the shoreline. Flat roof modern design with an 8’ overhang on the west and north sides. The roof has two other elevations and flat roofs. As this space will have access from the second level, it will also need railings. My question is about detailing the overhangs and how to setup the drainage and maintain all the control layers. Do you suggest draining to an external gutter on the facia or to put up a short parapet wall and direct to scupper? Will need structure to locate the railing that will not interfere with the thermal layers. What would be the best approach in this situation?

Glad to hear you are going to continue the q&a, i find it really interesting and helpful. Have you ever used Superior Walls concrete system? What else needs to be done for waterproofing and air sealing once they are in place for both underground and if used above grade. Thanks!

I always enjoy your videos! I appreciate that you have both new construction and retrofit tips!

In my experience, spray foam sticks to surfaces very well, may be different based on manufacturers or application. I agree with the off gassing comments, definitely will off gas for months at least.

What would you recommend for a bedroom over a garage? Floor joists are 10in i-joists. This is in Canada... Southern Ontario. The garage is set into the house so only the door wall and one other wall is truly exterior