Very informative vid. Thank yo so much. I would like to add some tips. 1. use zip ties to hold the thick cable bundle right above the gasket cover. It will give some space to remove the cover . 2. remove or just loose the bracket bolts which are holding the intake manifold. It will give about extra 1 inch space behind bracket. Actually, the bracket bolts can be removed from the hood, and these are not visible, but it can be done. It took me about 8 hours for two days over weekend. Mini ratchet tools helped me a lot to remove the bolts which are difficult to access. Thank you again.
I decided to take on this project. It is not for your average DIY, but not too technically difficult. Just be prepared to become a contortionist and use every socket, knuckle, extension and wrench in your tool box. I had to do it twice since I nicked the back gasket. You do not have to take off the first vacuum hose bracket nor remove the coolant lines on the throttle body. You can just fold them away. Tips: For the back manifold brackets a self-ratcheting wrench works well, a stubby maybe better. You can get to the lower bolts underneath the car if you wish. Install all the bracket bolts and manifold bolts loosely before tightening all. You can get all the valve cover bolts with a 1/4" ratchet, knuckle and an extension in various combinations. The back harness is a bitch but one thing VERY IMPORTANT: On the passenger side there are four cables coming out of the harness, three coil wires and the fourth is a knock sensor. If you pull too hard you may damage the connector, the wire or the harness. You can disconnect this wire from underneath the car and this will give you more wiggle room. You can probably do this in one day, but plan for two. Definitely replace the spark plugs and air filter. Thank you Farm Worxs.
First thing I'll mention, on these Toyota vehicles it's best to go ahead and spend another $60 and replace all the plugs while you're replacing the valve cover gaskets. It'll save you from doing all this again when it's time to replace them. Also, I learned many years ago that Zip Ties are your best friend when you're working on Toyota or Nissan cars and trucks. I zip tie the hell out of everything to keep it up and out of the way, especially wiring harnesses that are a pain to work around. A 10¢ Zip Tie can save you a lot of time and money when working on these Japanese vehicles. They over-engineer everything and are a real pain for the average owner to work on.
They do not "over engineer" these things. They engineer it purposely to be anti-DIY, so that you throw the towel and let the stealership clean you out for at least a grand! Every single damn thing on this Highlander is a battle. Wait till you have to do front control arms due to worn bushings and car shaking all over the road.... fun times ahead! 🥵 (stealership quote for that job : $5000).
Great video with a video man. I have replaced the gasket over the weekend due to this video. I also would like to add that to unclip the wire along the timing belt, including power steering switch.
Hey man, great video. I was doing a whole bunch of things to my daughter's 2005, TB, VC gaskets, oil seals, rack n pinion boot replacements, ctrl arm bushings and more. I'd forgotten where some of the tubing attached to but your video was super clear and it saved my bacon. One thing I noticed though, you forgot to reinstall the throttle body to intake bracket. Not a big deal, the 2005s dont have that bracket so you didn't miss much.
Great step by step video. I will check the spark plugs while I'm in there. They are iridium plugs. Supposedly good for 480,000km because they are such a pain to get to. My 2002's gasket leak has just started causing a miss fire on a few cylinders. So I would think I will have to get down to the plugs to do some cleaning. Thanks again for the video. I have a clearer idea what I will have to do and the time required to do the job.
Thanks. Yeah good luck, hopefully everything works out nice for you. The work isnt too hard, just tedious and a lot of part removal. Looks scarier then it actually is but that also my experience talking lol.
Great video. I agree with Sukjoo Choi on the zip ties. I used one on the passenger side to hold up the wiring harness when replacing the cover. It gives you more room so as not to rub the new gasket on the cam bolts when replacing. Also one other tip I may suggest is to leave the coolant lines connected and just move the throttle body off to the side. It really doesn't get in the way. If Toyota had made that harness two inches longer this would have been a fairly easy fix. Thanks again for the video. t
Thanks so much...I definitely will let someone else mess with this. I thought it would be easier but it is fairly involved. Good job showing the steps and that was just the rear valve cover...all of a sudden the few drops of oil coming out are not worrying me as much.
Hey man, thanks for the vid - helped me this past weekend when me & a buddy changed mine out. Same highlander, year, engine and everything. That rear one with that wiring harness is a... well, it’s something.
Best vid on youtube for this... I found that using cord to tie the harness up on the tubes that the plenum is mounted to allowed me to slide the valve cover back on pretty easily.
I had to check when this was posted because your toolbox is probably worth more than the highlander 😅. Appreciate the video, good to know about hangups beforehand.
Great video. I have a question related to one part of the video related to when you unhook the 4 hoses from the air intake cover. The very top hose on my highlander is not hooked to anything on the other end. Do you know where it should be hooked up? I’m assuming it isn’t supposed to just dangle in the engine
Great video thanks for posting. Has anyone done the valve seals for this engine? My car has 230,000 miles and it burns about a quart of oil every 1500 miles. I’m suspecting the valve seals are bad. How much more do you have to do besides put in this video to get to the seals?
Very nice job...thanks for sharing this....what a nightmare....I think ill just let mine leak...such a pain since manufacturers rotated the engines 90 degrees....was a pleasure to work on cars in 1960s and 1970s
I wasn't sure it'd be worth it to delve that far for a valve cover gasket, but your video kept me from losing by composure during the disassembly/assembly. Go ahead and replace your spark plugs while your in there too. I used a piece of tubing to get them out of their cylinders. Took about 6 hours. Still had a little weekend left.
You loosened the lower bolts on the intake manifold brackets to remove the cover and then showed putting the upper bolts back in. How did you get the brackets to line back up with the plenum? Do they automatically line up when you tighten them back up or did you attach the upper bolts to the intake first and then tighten the lower bolts? Otherwise, great job on the details! Thx.
Def subbed. This video saved my damn life, if you wouldn’t have mentioned to loosen those fasteners under the car and above, I would’ve been stuck here wondering why the fuck my intake isn’t coming off.
Awesome video! My 2007 Highlander 3.3l has a really bad oil leak on passenger side of engine behind power steering pump. I recently replaced PS fluid with red transmission fluid. No leak there. But engine oil leak really bad any suggestions???
just watching this is causing me PTSD....pretty miserable job just to do the rear plugs much less the rear head gasket. I will save this valuable video and comments for the future.
Hey guys - nice video. When you did the front, were you able to remove the two E6 stud bolts? are are they E5? I am not at all able to remove fine and am afraid to push harder thinking I'll strip the head. Thanks.
You may have already answered this question, but what brand of gaskets did you go back with? Just bought a highlander like this for my daughter and it's going to need this job so I want to use the best parts for it. Thanks for posting!
Did you do your spark plugs while you were at it? or just the valve cover? I have a leaky valve cover and am about to get started on mine been debating doing the spark plugs while I have everything apart. I have the 04 version with 392k miles on it. The real reason I was watching was to see you take the back cover off, I at least seen you put it back on so it gives me a general idea as to how much of a pain in the ass its going to be. I've been dreading dealing with it cause of the position and space avail. You made it look fairly easy and I have some experience working on cars so it gives me a little boost of confidence I think I needed. Thanks for putting this together!
So the funny thing is that i actually had down the spark plugs and coil packs like the year prior and then had to do it again because of the valve cover. I would 100% recommend doing the coil packs and spark plugs. Itll cost you more money but its worth the time and trouble to do it all once then having to do it twice like me.
@@kdyilcek yea this is exactly what I have been contemplating for over a week now. It's exactly as you say cost a little more now, but save a lot of hassle later. I hadn't considered doing the coil packs I was just going to do the SP, but I will now add that to the list and get those as well since I don't know if they have ever been done on the vehicle. btw thanks for the quick response!
@@kdyilcek another question what brand SP did you replace with? I can't decide between NGK and denso's. I read that when someone did the SP's they found that they had NGK's in the Front and Denso's in the back, but they weren't positive that they had been previously replaced. and what about Coil packs? When I look at my local store they are redic expensive ($300 for duralast and $660 for NGK), but I found the NGK's on amazon for $42/ea(pretty sure this is how I am going to go with the coils)
Yeah if the coil packs have never been done then you should definitely get those done as well. A pack coil pack could also foul a spark plug to which ends up putting you back in the same situation. I used denso spark plugs for all 6 cylinders but i have also used ngk on a lot of different vehicles and equipment and I love them. The coil packs on the other hand, I will have to get back to you on because I forget which ones I used.
This video is super great, but you didn't mention the Torque sequence or Torque wrench Foot Lbs (71 in-lbs/ 5.91 Ft-lbs) anywhere. Just tightening the bolts too tight could be disastrous. Still a thumbs up on the video beyond that
@@kdyilcek yes, it was basically. Only thing I did differently is disconnect the sensor , believe it’s the coolant temperature control sensor, directly below the timing cover and that electric bundle which allowed me to lift the bundle up more and have more room to work. Be careful not to lift the bundle first as that single wire will yank out of the sensor easily.
@@kdyilcek That 14 mm was such a pain in the ass to get to on the plenum bracket. I had to remove the throttle body in sections and the bracket bolts coming in front he driver side just to have enough space to work. Ironically I misplaced that bolt during rebuild and then found it after, it's def not going back on.
I just change the valve cover gasket and the oilpan gasket but coolant fell all around the engine so I used brake cleaner and know the check engine light (02 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 2), Trac off and VSC are on. My friend told me than it was the brake cleaner damage the sensor. Becarfull how you clean the engine. Don't make the same mistake.
You dont need it with the OE gasket. If you want the extra security then go for it but youll probably end up rubbing it all over the rocker arms squeezing the cover back in
Honestly depends on your skill level but if it were me i would probably charge at least $300 for labor alone. I dont remember what i paid for parts plus it also depends where you are in the country what parts may cost you. Start at $300 at least though
poor quality control on the audio at times even when it doesn't cut out his voice is muffled at times....this alone separates it from the experienced guys like Eric the car guy etc and IMO if audio isn't 100%, fix it!!!! or redo the video properly....visual is ok but again his verbal presentation is not clear and purposeful....a seasoned DIYer can get by on this but there are much much better presenters....I only watched halfway and then bailed for something more detailed and clear.
If your such a good videographer then create your own proper video and ill take pointers from you but i dont need you to criticize my video when you have nothing to show. The video is there to help anyone who needs it, not for you to decide weather it should win and award or not. Thanks
Very informative vid. Thank yo so much. I would like to add some tips. 1. use zip ties to hold the thick cable bundle right above the gasket cover. It will give some space to remove the cover . 2. remove or just loose the bracket bolts which are holding the intake manifold. It will give about extra 1 inch space behind bracket. Actually, the bracket bolts can be removed from the hood, and these are not visible, but it can be done. It took me about 8 hours for two days over weekend. Mini ratchet tools helped me a lot to remove the bolts which are difficult to access. Thank you again.
I decided to take on this project. It is not for your average DIY, but not too technically difficult. Just be prepared to become a contortionist and use every socket, knuckle, extension and wrench in your tool box. I had to do it twice since I nicked the back gasket. You do not have to take off the first vacuum hose bracket nor remove the coolant lines on the throttle body. You can just fold them away. Tips: For the back manifold brackets a self-ratcheting wrench works well, a stubby maybe better. You can get to the lower bolts underneath the car if you wish. Install all the bracket bolts and manifold bolts loosely before tightening all. You can get all the valve cover bolts with a 1/4" ratchet, knuckle and an extension in various combinations. The back harness is a bitch but one thing VERY IMPORTANT: On the passenger side there are four cables coming out of the harness, three coil wires and the fourth is a knock sensor. If you pull too hard you may damage the connector, the wire or the harness. You can disconnect this wire from underneath the car and this will give you more wiggle room. You can probably do this in one day, but plan for two. Definitely replace the spark plugs and air filter. Thank you Farm Worxs.
Hated doing this on my moms Highlander. In the cold in the snow.
First thing I'll mention, on these Toyota vehicles it's best to go ahead and spend another $60 and replace all the plugs while you're replacing the valve cover gaskets. It'll save you from doing all this again when it's time to replace them. Also, I learned many years ago that Zip Ties are your best friend when you're working on Toyota or Nissan cars and trucks. I zip tie the hell out of everything to keep it up and out of the way, especially wiring harnesses that are a pain to work around. A 10¢ Zip Tie can save you a lot of time and money when working on these Japanese vehicles. They over-engineer everything and are a real pain for the average owner to work on.
The plugs and coil packs are already done on this vehicle. The gasket started leaking a few months after those were done
They do not "over engineer" these things. They engineer it purposely to be anti-DIY, so that you throw the towel and let the stealership clean you out for at least a grand! Every single damn thing on this Highlander is a battle. Wait till you have to do front control arms due to worn bushings and car shaking all over the road.... fun times ahead! 🥵 (stealership quote for that job : $5000).
Great video helped me out a lot as I had to replace the spark plugs on a 3.3 v6 and it entails taking off the plenum intake. Thanks a lot.
Thumbs up for the effort put into making a video upload like this.
Great video with a video man. I have replaced the gasket over the weekend due to this video. I also would like to add that to unclip the wire along the timing belt, including power steering switch.
Hey man, great video. I was doing a whole bunch of things to my daughter's 2005, TB, VC gaskets, oil seals, rack n pinion boot replacements, ctrl arm bushings and more. I'd forgotten where some of the tubing attached to but your video was super clear and it saved my bacon. One thing I noticed though, you forgot to reinstall the throttle body to intake bracket. Not a big deal, the 2005s dont have that bracket so you didn't miss much.
Lol i missed it in the video and remembered after the fact but i did go back and hook up the throttle body bracket
Great step by step video. I will check the spark plugs while I'm in there. They are iridium plugs. Supposedly good for 480,000km because they are such a pain to get to. My 2002's gasket leak has just started causing a miss fire on a few cylinders. So I would think I will have to get down to the plugs to do some cleaning.
Thanks again for the video. I have a clearer idea what I will have to do and the time required to do the job.
Thanks. Yeah good luck, hopefully everything works out nice for you. The work isnt too hard, just tedious and a lot of part removal. Looks scarier then it actually is but that also my experience talking lol.
17:58 skipped the nightmare. Would have been a cool video sharing your struggles.
Great video. I agree with Sukjoo Choi on the zip ties. I used one on the passenger side to hold up the wiring harness when replacing the cover. It gives you more room so as not to rub the new gasket on the cam bolts when replacing. Also one other tip I may suggest is to leave the coolant lines connected and just move the throttle body off to the side. It really doesn't get in the way. If Toyota had made that harness two inches longer this would have been a fairly easy fix. Thanks again for the video.
t
Thanks so much...I definitely will let someone else mess with this. I thought it would be easier but it is fairly involved. Good job showing the steps and that was just the rear valve cover...all of a sudden the few drops of oil coming out are not worrying me as much.
Lol yeah its a bit involved. I didnt show the front because its really easy and usually not the one questioned
Toyota Dealer wants $1000.00 + in labor alone to do this job.
Hey man, thanks for the vid - helped me this past weekend when me & a buddy changed mine out. Same highlander, year, engine and everything. That rear one with that wiring harness is a... well, it’s something.
No problem, glad it helped you out. They couldnt find a better spot to put that wiring harness apparently lol.
Best vid on youtube for this... I found that using cord to tie the harness up on the tubes that the plenum is mounted to allowed me to slide the valve cover back on pretty easily.
Oh nice. Ill have to try that next time
Excellent job bro! Nice video shot
Awesome video! Currently doing this myself on an 04 3.3 and yea.... Lol
Thanks again!
Nice, good luck! Take your time
Good video and great camera person!🇺🇸
Very informative video , thanks !
Thanks man for the video!
Great video!
Thank you
I had to check when this was posted because your toolbox is probably worth more than the highlander 😅. Appreciate the video, good to know about hangups beforehand.
Hahah I would agree with you, my toolbox is worth more then the car. Yeah the work isnt too crazy. More tedious then anything.
Excelente este video de la Toyota Highlander 2005 muchas gracias lastima que yo no entiendo inglés
Great video. I have a question related to one part of the video related to when you unhook the 4 hoses from the air intake cover. The very top hose on my highlander is not hooked to anything on the other end. Do you know where it should be hooked up? I’m assuming it isn’t supposed to just dangle in the engine
Great video thanks for posting. Has anyone done the valve seals for this engine? My car has 230,000 miles and it burns about a quart of oil every 1500 miles. I’m suspecting the valve seals are bad. How much more do you have to do besides put in this video to get to the seals?
The 4 8mm hex bolts holding the intake manifold down, what are the specs on those? I need to replace asap! Thank you kindly in advance
Very nice job...thanks for sharing this....what a nightmare....I think ill just let mine leak...such a pain since manufacturers rotated the engines 90 degrees....was a pleasure to work on cars in 1960s and 1970s
Thanks a bunch your awesome im gonna mark all the vac lines
Just to be sure .may as well do the plugs to.
That was really really fucking hard. Thanks for your video.
appreciate the video
I wasn't sure it'd be worth it to delve that far for a valve cover gasket, but your video kept me from losing by composure during the disassembly/assembly. Go ahead and replace your spark plugs while your in there too. I used a piece of tubing to get them out of their cylinders. Took about 6 hours. Still had a little weekend left.
Nice, thats what i like to hear
Hey Thanks Dude....
You loosened the lower bolts on the intake manifold brackets to remove the cover and then showed putting the upper bolts back in. How did you get the brackets to line back up with the plenum? Do they automatically line up when you tighten them back up or did you attach the upper bolts to the intake first and then tighten the lower bolts? Otherwise, great job on the details! Thx.
Def subbed. This video saved my damn life, if you wouldn’t have mentioned to loosen those fasteners under the car and above, I would’ve been stuck here wondering why the fuck my intake isn’t coming off.
I tried to make it as in detail as possible for everyone
Buen día, me puedes ayudar con el catálogo de partes del hailander 2006. V6, 3.3
Awesome video! My 2007 Highlander 3.3l has a really bad oil leak on passenger side of engine behind power steering pump. I recently replaced PS fluid with red transmission fluid. No leak there. But engine oil leak really bad any suggestions???
sounds like you valve covers are leaking, and this video will fix your issue
just watching this is causing me PTSD....pretty miserable job just to do the rear plugs much less the rear head gasket. I will save this valuable video and comments for the future.
Hey guys - nice video. When you did the front, were you able to remove the two E6 stud bolts? are are they E5? I am not at all able to remove fine and am afraid to push harder thinking I'll strip the head. Thanks.
the stud size is between E6 and E5. E6 is too loose, E5 can't get in.
What size wrench/socket is needed for three bracket bolts on the back side when the audio cut out? Great video, very helpful
I forget exactly but it was either a 13mm or 14
thanks
You may have already answered this question, but what brand of gaskets did you go back with? Just bought a highlander like this for my daughter and it's going to need this job so I want to use the best parts for it. Thanks for posting!
I typically will use either OE parts or for gaskets i will go with Felpro products
Great video!!! I have a 2007 Highlander. QUESTION: IS THAT ENGINE & COMPONENTS THE SAME AS THE 2005?? Thanks for your reply. Tom
Yeah should be exactly the same. Sometimes manufacturer will change minor things from year to year but everything should be exactly the same
@@kdyilcek Thanks so much!!! Tom
Did you do your spark plugs while you were at it? or just the valve cover? I have a leaky valve cover and am about to get started on mine been debating doing the spark plugs while I have everything apart. I have the 04 version with 392k miles on it.
The real reason I was watching was to see you take the back cover off, I at least seen you put it back on so it gives me a general idea as to how much of a pain in the ass its going to be. I've been dreading dealing with it cause of the position and space avail. You made it look fairly easy and I have some experience working on cars so it gives me a little boost of confidence I think I needed. Thanks for putting this together!
So the funny thing is that i actually had down the spark plugs and coil packs like the year prior and then had to do it again because of the valve cover. I would 100% recommend doing the coil packs and spark plugs. Itll cost you more money but its worth the time and trouble to do it all once then having to do it twice like me.
@@kdyilcek yea this is exactly what I have been contemplating for over a week now. It's exactly as you say cost a little more now, but save a lot of hassle later. I hadn't considered doing the coil packs I was just going to do the SP, but I will now add that to the list and get those as well since I don't know if they have ever been done on the vehicle.
btw thanks for the quick response!
@@kdyilcek another question what brand SP did you replace with? I can't decide between NGK and denso's.
I read that when someone did the SP's they found that they had NGK's in the Front and Denso's in the back, but they weren't positive that they had been previously replaced.
and what about Coil packs? When I look at my local store they are redic expensive ($300 for duralast and $660 for NGK), but I found the NGK's on amazon for $42/ea(pretty sure this is how I am going to go with the coils)
Yeah if the coil packs have never been done then you should definitely get those done as well. A pack coil pack could also foul a spark plug to which ends up putting you back in the same situation. I used denso spark plugs for all 6 cylinders but i have also used ngk on a lot of different vehicles and equipment and I love them. The coil packs on the other hand, I will have to get back to you on because I forget which ones I used.
@Royce Osentowski I put on denso coil packs as well. Just keep looking for deals. You can find them on amazon sometimes.
This video is super great, but you didn't mention the Torque sequence or Torque wrench Foot Lbs (71 in-lbs/ 5.91 Ft-lbs) anywhere. Just tightening the bolts too tight could be disastrous. Still a thumbs up on the video beyond that
Why did you remove it in the first place ???😮😮
Wat size are the bolts holding the manifold in the back? The hidden ones?
Honestly i forget now but i think they may have been a 14mm or so
It's 14mm on the passenger side, 12mm in the middle and the driver's side.
Im having tough time with the middle 12mm bolt. It's starting to strip.
How different or same is the procedure for a 2004 vs this 2005 ? Anything to really watch out for...?
Should be exactly the same pretty much
@@kdyilcek yes, it was basically. Only thing I did differently is disconnect the sensor , believe it’s the coolant temperature control sensor, directly below the timing cover and that electric bundle which allowed me to lift the bundle up more and have more room to work. Be careful not to lift the bundle first as that single wire will yank out of the sensor easily.
Ahhh gotcha. Still a pain in the ass spot to put a bundle of wires lol
@@kdyilcek That 14 mm was such a pain in the ass to get to on the plenum bracket. I had to remove the throttle body in sections and the bracket bolts coming in front he driver side just to have enough space to work. Ironically I misplaced that bolt during rebuild and then found it after, it's def not going back on.
Lmao i definitely had an issue with the same bolt
Completed this job a few days ago, runs just fine but once in drive and gas pedal is pressed, there is a noise. Any ideas ?
I mean it depends on the type of noise its making. I would have to get an idea of the noise its making to be able to push you in the right direction
I figure it out! The engine mounts are bad. When I press on the gas the engine rolls back and that exhaust bracket hits the firewall.
Ahhh gotcha. Yeah ive seen that happen before
I just change the valve cover gasket and the oilpan gasket but coolant fell all around the engine so I used brake cleaner and know the check engine light (02 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 2), Trac off and VSC are on. My friend told me than it was the brake cleaner damage the sensor.
Becarfull how you clean the engine. Don't make the same mistake.
Oh thats a shame. Yeah brake cleaner can be your friend or your enemy.
Good video. Another reminder why I f****g HATE these unibody FWD Toyotas and their "dealer only" anti-DIY B.S. designs.
Happy
No seal packing/FIPG?
You dont need it with the OE gasket. If you want the extra security then go for it but youll probably end up rubbing it all over the rocker arms squeezing the cover back in
Wished you would have shown me how to get the valve cover off...
Which cover?
How much would you charge for this job parts and labor ?
Honestly depends on your skill level but if it were me i would probably charge at least $300 for labor alone. I dont remember what i paid for parts plus it also depends where you are in the country what parts may cost you. Start at $300 at least though
اسباب تفطفيطه السياره بعد خدمة قاسيون تيستاته
Sounds like you still have audio, but some how its muffled bad
Busted. " It took you two days to put a simple valve cover on 😂😅
What KL is trying to say is You have to be mechanically inclined to do this kind of work...
Fire stone won't even touch the back valve cover gasket lol
Thats sad lol. If they cant do that then i wouldnt let them touch my car at all haha
Yeah, it may cause more damage because a lot of things are involved. If it's just a minor leak, you may want to leave it alone.
I was encouraged to do this on my own until ur speech at the end.
I'm an amateur.
After watching the whole how to video he says don’t try and do it yourself. 🤦♂️
Lmao i said if your not mechanically inclined at all and dont have enough tools i wouldn’t give it a try
@@kdyilcek lol I’m just about to tackle this job on my highlander and your video is detailed so thank you for that. I’m going to get all the tools ⚒️.
poor quality control on the audio at times even when it doesn't cut out his voice is muffled at times....this alone separates it from the experienced guys like Eric the car guy etc and IMO if audio isn't 100%, fix it!!!! or redo the video properly....visual is ok but again his verbal presentation is not clear and purposeful....a seasoned DIYer can get by on this but there are much much better presenters....I only watched halfway and then bailed for something more detailed and clear.
If your such a good videographer then create your own proper video and ill take pointers from you but i dont need you to criticize my video when you have nothing to show. The video is there to help anyone who needs it, not for you to decide weather it should win and award or not. Thanks
@@kdyilcek Eric the car guy LOL , man thanks for this video very accurate now I don't have to waste extra time on what should I remove.
Thanks man
@@kdyilcek There is always one in the group!
Guy complaining is a tool harbor freight level great video