How to Sew a 1690's Mantua | Holiday Barbie but 1694!
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- What would Holiday Barbie have worn in 1694? In the revolutionary gown that changed the entire course of dressmaking history, of course: the mantua! In this video, I will walk you step by step how to make a mantua as I turn myself into Holiday Barbie 1694 (minus the blond wig. I couldn't ruin my gown like that 🤣)
Cut in straight rectangles and pleated to the wearer's body, these gowns caused a sensation! Worn over the stays and petticoat unlike earlier gowns, which were heavily boned and structured, these gowns could be made by women instead of tailors, a business that was entirely male-dominated.
Unfortunately, because these gowns were basically giant rectangles, they were prime picking to be taken apart and made into more fashionable, later silouettes, with the result that very very few mantuas remain in existence. In fact, only two have been patterend. One by Janet Arnold, stuck in the very back of the original Patterns of Fashion 1, and one by Norah Waugh in the Cut of Women's Clothes. Neither mantua has much instruction (and in the case of Waugh, ZERO instruction.)
And to make my mantua, a gown that I've wanted to make for a very long time, I must tread into the abyss of darkness and figure out not only how to pleat this on my own, but how to actually make the thing. Augh!
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Chapters:
00:00 Holiday Barbie but 1694
00:45 The Mantua Revolution
03:06 Making the mantua
04:52 Pattern modifications
06:54 Mockup
09:06 The petticoat
10:40 Cutting out
12:35 Materials
13:15 Pleating
17:41 Assembling the stomacher
18:18 Fixing the pleats
20:26 Seaming the mantua
21:58 Trimming
23:36 Attaching the front facing
24:30 Final touches
31:22 Reveal
Resources:
Fabric and trim from www.mood.com
Patterns of Fashion: theschoolofhistoricaldress.org...
-Please note that the mantua is no longer in the updated Patterns of Fashion 1. I have reason to believe it's now in Patterns of Fashion 6, but I don't own that one, so I can't confirm.
The Cut of Women's Clothes: smile.amazon.com/cut-womens-c...
Wool embroidered mantua courtesy of the Met: www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Victorian tea gown also courtesy of the Met: www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Later mantua courtesy of the V&A, given by the Crawley family: collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1...
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themodernmantuamaker.wordpres...
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#17thcentury #christmas #holiday #barbie - Навчання та стиль
Ahh, I wish I could like this more then once! This was such a good video. Good presentation, good quality, good humour, good sewing! And yes, absolutely more 17th century!
Thank you so much! 😊 I had a lot of fun with this project. So glad you enjoyed it!
Hello! Barbie deserves such a lovely holiday dress. Nicely done!
Thank you! 😊
Yea! Barbie-liscious 👏👏👏👏👏
Lol! New term, love it 😅 thanks!
I have a Mantua sitting in my UFO pile, they are my favourite gown type but a nightmare to do solo, especially if you lack the space for a dress form...and have a kitten who insists on 'helping'...maybe I'll finish one day or get distracted by other pretties🤣
Yeah, it was a challenge--but at least I didn't have any kitties to contend with! 😸 Here's hoping you finish! Best of luck!
I have a feline sewing "assistant" and she makes big gowns a special kind of challenge...
Wow well done. You patience paid off big style. A mantua to be proud of. Xx
Thank you so much! 😄
This is so beautiful! All the trim really brings it to life! I'm working on a 17th-century-inspired gown right now, and I can't believe how few videos are out there about this time period. I'm really enjoying all of yours!
Thank you!! I agree, the trim totally makes it! So glad you enjoyed it--and thrilled to have another 17th century fan around here!!
Nicole Rudolph has a video on how she made Winifred's mantua*. From doing a quick search I found a short video on a mantua seam from Burnley and Trowbridge. V. Birchwood also has a mantua seam, and Priorattire has a video on how to dress in a mantua. But you're right, there really isn't much info. Which is strange because you would think the mantua would be popular with cosplayers. Thanks for the video. 😊
*Apparently Winifred's mantua is from a later date though? 🤔
Nicole and I used the same mantua as a base, although she mostly drafted hers, if I remember correctly. The Waugh mantua dates from about 1700 ish, if I remember right. So yes, a little later than my particular interest. There are ZERO original mantuas left, ones that look like the french fashion plates from the 1670s-80s. Eventually I'm going to try and draft one, but those are a lot different. Gotta get some practice under my belt, first 😊 Thanks for watching!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming OK, thanks for the info. Aww, that's a shame there are no originals left. OK, good luck with the drafting. 🙂
Yes! A mantua and the 17th century getting the love it deserves. And in Christmas colors! And that trim - the petticoat is beyond fabulous. Did you end up using the Reconstructing History much? I'm hit and miss with them - their Tudor gown pattern was not bad but I struggled with the mens' patterns I've tried with them.
Thank you!! I'm glad I'm not the only one excited about that trim 😆 I barely used the RH pattern. I only ended up referencing the instructions a bit when I was really confused. Good to know about their men's patterns...I was starting to lean toward wanting to use their justacorps pattern...🥴
Howdy from the state of Tennessee.. i love your vlogs so much you keep it real and i love that . i love your quirkiness . God bless you and your family
Glad you enjoy! Thanks for watching! 😄
I'm glad you had someone to help with at leastpart of the back. dislocating joints aren't all they're cracked up to be. hugely helpful (though painful) on occasion, but otherwise it's just painful and annoying when they get stuck and you end up in an emergency room for 7 hours waiting for someone to pop the damn thing back. anyway. I absolutely love the embroidery that you've done. and the whole gown came out looking great, especially considering your difficulties and lack of help. as always, I'm seriously impressed!
Yikes, that does sound painful! Thanks 😄 I'm pretty happy with it. Now I just have to find a place to wear it...😏
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming it is. Bloody handy on occasion though. That's always been my problem. I had to start making more everyday wear when my wardrobe became half full of fabulous historical gowns, but I 1.couldnt find anywhere to actually wear them, and 2. I'm a hermit, so.... yeah. That was a problem🤣. You should be happy with it and also proud that you managed to do so much in your own!
It turned out great, despite all the struggles. 🙂
Thanks!
Very pretty, and VERY Barbie😍❤😄!
Thank you! 😄
This is amazing! You put in an impressive amount of work and the result looks fantastic.
Thank you so much! 😊
Hey, I just found your channel! This is my kind of content! Can't wait to see more!!!
I'm so glad you found it! Hello and welcome! 😁
Did you see the video from priorattire dressing up in a mantula? It came out the around the same time as yours. Very interesting garment 💖 love the barbie-fication concept 😂💖 i can’t believe youtube wasn’t recommending you earlier 😅
I didn't, but I'll go check it out 👍 Thank you, and welcome! So glad the algorithm finally brought you here! 😁
Fantastic and perfect!!!!
I love this❤️
Thank you! ☺ I appreciate you!
Brilliant as usual. Can't wait to see what you make next year.,Have a happy Christmas.
Thank you! Oh, I've got some fun stuff planned 😄 You too!
This is my first ever video of yours I've seen, had to subscribe 👍 I dig your vibe
Awesome, thank you so much! And welcome to the craziness! 😂😁
This is amazing!
Thank you!! It was really fun to make!
Bosom cuff!🤣
🤣🤣 I couldn't help myself!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming 🤣I'm never going to be able to think of them another way!
really beautiful!
Thank you! 😊
@Fantastical Follies Costuming so I've been wondering since yesterday.. is it a 3pc put fit. Like a jacket over stomacher and then a separate skirt?
Yes. The gold skirt is a petticoat that you put on first. Then you pin on the stomacher, and then the gown goes on over top and gets pinned to the sides of the stomacher. Then the entire front portion of the gown skirts get looped up and hooked to buttons in the center back.
Thank you, thank you for doing a 17th century mantua!! I love the 17th century (my favorite historical time period) but mostly everyone in the costume hobby seems to loathe it. The complete lack of interest and information on the period is really frustrating! One question though; why 1694 Barbie? Why did you choose that specific year?
I agree! One of the reasons I'm trying to focus on that era. My theory is if there's more information, there will by nature be more interest. And absolutely no particular reason why I chose that year over others 😆
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Poor Queen Mary died from smallpox during the Christmas season of 1694... I'm a history nerd so I always remember that date. 😔Your mantua looks like something she would have worn. And thanks for creating the other 17th century videos. I'm watching those at the moment and you have inspired me to try to tackle the simple petticoat and smock! 🥰