Sometimes things don't go as planned!
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- All the work and time just brings me back to the start again! problems happen and things sometimes don't go as planned..
Herr are the links to the two builds on spray booth.
• How to build a removab...
• Making my removable SP...
When a job is worth doing, it's worth doing well and if you aren't happy with it, do it again. Looking forward to seeing it done well the next time.
I've been a painter almost 40 years and used several different satin blacks. Slow reducer will fix your problem. Thinner won't let it flow it flashes too fast and also reduces the UV protection.
We only get experience and knowledge on any job from years of making mistakes and hopefully not making big ones, or the same one twice lol 👍 thanks for sharing, keep it going Tony 🙂
I didn't think you'd leave it. Can't wait for round two.
Sometimes when you use a different brand that you are not used to you have issues. I guess if you can't deal with it then you have to repaint with what you are used to. Not the end of the world, it's your baby. Thanks for sharing.
I have two comments.
1) This has been a good week for me. A Crusty video and a Chevy video within a week of each other. 🙂🙂🙂🙂
2). One of the reasons I watch your videos is that you have developed your own way of doing things. You are not afraid to experiment and often find creative ways to get something accomplished, with great results, for a fraction of the cost.
If you are that kind of guy, once in a while, things won’t work out as planned. In fact, I start worrying if something doesn’t fail to work out once in a while.
Half the fun is doing it different. Each mistake adds to the knowledge pool. ☀️☀️☀️
I've been painting cars and trucks with short nap rollers, they come out like that primer you are sanding. I haven't tried to sand them down, but because I use industrial enamel. I think I could polish them up and make them shine. They look good from the road, and unless I tell people how I painted them, they don't notice.
Cant argue with you. It's your car and you have to live with it. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thanks for sharing your valuable time and resourses, Tony. As a point of victory.. you may have saved others the issues involved with using this product. So be assured it was not all in vain. Best to you and yours.
I love your channel and being a mechanic and older I really appreciate that you always tell us how much time it took.thanks again
Learned a lot from your sanding, preparation and painting techniques. Thanks for sharing. Can’t wait to see it when you get it finished.
I appreciate you pointing out the issues and troubles you had. It looks great on camera! Even better stuck out in back under the sun!
Well from our viewpoint, you could have called good with no one the wiser. But glad you stated the true result (warts and all) so more for us to learn, and that is mainly why we are here!
I'm using am electric power assist steering that works in line with the steering shaft. The Prius is a stand alone system and it is ez to remove. Ps grab all of the steering joints when you grab it from a wrecking yard.
Thats tough Tony, but that is such a cool car. Can't wait to see when you get version two done.
Don't worry Tony. Take a mental break and ponder your fix plan. I spray satin black from time to time and I just buy Rustoleum by the gallon from Home Depot and mix high gloss with flat to get desired sheen and thin with mineral spirits, spray with old devilbus. Stands up pretty good !
I feel your struggles, Tony. You'll over come it, I'm sure.
I did collision and paint for 10 years in the mid 70s to mid 80s. Then probably 30 vehicles since then.
Crap happens. And trying new materials is usually a hassle the first time with them.
I painted my junky plow truck for the property with a roller. Man.. that was SO much fun, not having to care. Most fun I ever had painting! Laughed the whole time.
Oh I done those type of rigs over the years. Always a blast.
Love your channel. You do awesome work.
That’s nice blue prime Tony Looks great I see what you were talking about Dry spots
gotta give credit to where credit is due, goodonya for experimenting for us tony, ive never painted entire cars with satin paint, my biggest fear is getting crap in the paint, at least with gloss paint you can rub it back and polish it, all the best fitzee
Thank you for sharing, and the tips were good. Crusty looks really nice.
Everyone makes mistakes and has things not come out right. Just goes to show that you are human after all! Thanks for showing us the mess. I could see on the video that it was quite patchy, but no doubt it looked a lot worse in real life.
No surprise you aren't leaving it , you're too much a perfectionist and it would eat at you forever that it wasn't right. I agree that slower reducer might have helped, the other thing I might have tried is mixing it with tremclad 50/50 and see how that performed. looking forward to the next coat !
Well, that was a disaster. When you were pointing out all the issues, I was thinking it's time to run out and buy some Tremclad and do it again.
Learned a lot watching this video, particularly the things I should have taken more time on with the paint jobs I've done. I think the only vehicle paint job I've ever done that came out "acceptable" was a 1965 Jeep CJ-5 done with Rustoleum. But hey... it was a Jeep that was going to get beat up so who cared if it wasn't perfect. Hope I have the patience to get a top quality paint job on the 1958 Bugeye Sprite I'm restoring.
Very good Tony. You re usual attention to detail. I'm a painter myself, I wouldn't touch that international rubber if you paid me. The only decent products I've used from them were the epoxy primer non sand, like you've used and the boat deck paint. If you use a 1.6 or 1.8 nozzle with that stuff it will build up thicker than j lo ! A touch too much hardener will make it slower to dry and flow nicer for ya.. looks sweet from here.
For a metal guy, you paint fairly well! I think it looks great
Looks great from a few feet away looking forward to the repaint in trimclad
Some satin clear and she'll be good to go! Gonna be a super nice ride!
Makingitwork, we know where your name comes from. Life is too short to do everything by half measures. Don't Chad the job.
thanks for showing us that so we don't make the same mistake tony and I would not have let it go like that either 👍👍
Sorry things didn't go well. It just goes to show. Even people that have experience sometimes have things happen.
I would do the same thing it would eat at me until.i had to do something to fix it sorry for the troubles but glad you point them out it does really help us guys out
Its going to be really nice with another paint overtop. Smooth it right out.
Thanks for sharing.
The car looks good. Slower reducer next time will solve the problems. What ever the ambiant temp is use reducer temp accordingly.
Im sure it will end up great, Thanks for the videos
That's one you didn't let the shop inspector check out. After that flux-core cut and but when Peanut was disgusted with it.
Thanks, Tony - I know this frustrated you, but you still provided good information about prep and painting. I know you will get it done where you are satisfied with it - that is what counts!!
I hate that you got bad results from that paint but it's always something different with new products it just sucks that you don't have time to stay with it but I also understand that you need it to set up before you make a real mess of it, been there and it's not fun, tried and true is always the best way
When you're on a good thing, stick to it. Some ad we used to have here in Australia, but I can't remember what it was for. But in this case, if you are happy with a product, stick to it. Guess you won't be using that particular product again.
Hi Tony. You could see on the roof what you were saying about it being dry. That's too bad, after all the prep work, that you didn't get good results. You try something different and find it doesn't work out as well as what you used to do. What a bummer. It looks good from a distance but, like you said, you can't take it to a car show like that.
Good morning Tony. I'm sure that you're way better than I am at this sort of thing but I believe that you should use a slower reducer. Just another old car guy's opinion. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
Ya I agree but too late now. Lol
Sorry you have to respray, it will be a nice car when done, Fitz.
Thanks Tony! 👍💪✌
Nothing as soul destroying as paint going bad...Feel for you
But if im honest thats how painting goes for me most times - theres always something
I gather the fleetline is going elsewhere to get painted etc, I hope you will keep us updated on is progress. Its been with you and I for a long time and we are as keen to see the finished product ,as you are. Anything planned for Crusty in the near future ???
@bruceaskin9645 yes the fleetline will be going out to be painted. But I have alot more work to do to it till then. Interesting you ask about Crusty. Stick around. Have a video coming the weekend on Crusty
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp Excelent
Love the content, and you are a body guy, so I doubt this hasn't occurred to you, but what about wet sanding with say, 2500 grit, and rubbing compound? I have had great results with "wrecked" tables and such that I painted with a roller. I learn a ton from your down to earth repairs. Much admiration and love!
Water sanding and buffing satin paint will just make it shiny.
But it looked good all wet and shiny
Cut & buff it? Make it shiny-ish? Maybe replicate an old worn originally black car, in some cool way?...
On the cars i did welding or kitty hair on, i always injected stuff from the rear, either with spray can extension tubes, some combination of primer, top coat, waxoil, used engine oil & whatnot, depending on which kind of repair...
In some cases done as part of a professional undercoating (We have a very very good undercoating company Mercaseal in Sweden and their Kungsbacka branch always did famously excellent jobs.) So even kitty hair could hold up many years in the salt bath around Gothenburg... Next time you repair, there will of course be your preferred goo inside everything, but thats kinda satisfying...
I have never found any rust converter you can do that with.. Difficult to say what would happen..
I had friends with very old Volvos, which only used used engine oil, in the engine, on the underside, in hidden comparments. But Brylcreem in the hair.
I thought i was the only one the had that kind of trouble.
I would be the same way I just couldn’t accept the fact that it didn’t flow out and would have to do something with it too .
Hopefully you get it back in away from the damp air
What about using the paint that lays down good without UV protection and protect it with a satin clear coat?🤔🤷😎👍
I thought about that but can be expensive. The clear cost alot more then the the paint and there has been troubles with satin clears much same as the satin paints. Drys too fast.
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp
Maybe semigloss then? I'm not a painter so my comments are also questions when it comes to paint.😎👍
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp Clear coat is always trouble. We have one car here with clear coat and it's all coming off. If I ever respray it, I will change the color and use a one shot paint, no clear coat. Every car I see with clear coat has the same issue. It's rubbish.
That's rite tony don't stress it uou will get it done in time I would have said and done the same thing.
In the words of Curly from the Three Stooges, "If at first you don't succeed, keep on suckin' till you do succeed.' It sucks when paint won't behave.
Have you ever tired #0000 steel wool to clean up glass? If you use it with water it takes overspray off easy, works great for build up on shower doors too. A razor blade like you use works great as well but it's nice to have options.
I never used it but I seen it used.
We have used that paint with airless setup and it came out really nice but you use a lot.
Live and learn ! !
I've never used on of the new fan-dangle HVLP guns; always a siphon gun.(except the first car I painted I used a Bug-a-boo fly sprayer. That was in about 1945. Not recommended but possible if you don't have a compressor)
Heard of spraying with vacuum cleaners too.
Love that blue
A fella can only get so much done when you're a one man show. I assume Wendy drove the Mustang all summer. Are we going to get a followup on her Mustang adventures?
We used it a few times. I been thinking about just such a video.
I'd suggest do a lace job on the roof and call it good!
No sides is what turned me. I hate steaks in satin colors
👍😎🏁
Naaa… that’s your calling card. Get the Tremclad and do it right. You took a chance on the new paint. Live and learn.😢
Maybe you can buff it out just a thought looks pretty good From here
Buffing satins makes it shiny
Just a thought. Is it possible you could tape out scallops or something and cover most of the problem areas? Then you could use that blue primer to shoot them. That roof is screaming for lace, lol! Did painting for 40 years before lungs gave out. I feel your pain!
She have to have some lot of scallops. Lol
I used to put thinner and some paint in the gun, and flashed the car, usually it would flow out great 👍
Well, you win some, you lose some.
But YOU....usually win.
(don't beat yourself up)
Feel for you, been there , seen it & done it. Only 1 thing to do and that is to do it over 😒
You mentioned your cheap gun. I know a guy who does paint and body work and he says the same thing about cheap harbor freight guns, they work ok one time.
Dang!!!
The fast drying paint might be because you have too much airflow in your paint booth. Try turning the fans down and see if that helps. Also could be too low in humidity. You might need to pick a day that’s a little bit cooler and higher in humidity.
There are a lot of factors that might of helped but too late now. I feel if I addressed a bunch of the issues I still wouldn't be happy with the finish. I painted alot of rigs in my time and you get a feel for a product. This product line has its place in the industry just not a easy fix for a all over paint job.
Tony would it not pay to have one of those inflatable booths, you could have it inside or out?
No room.. but cool idea.
Takes a big man to good with the bad on UA-cam. Thank you.
If anyone wants to try this paint some have suggested a slow reducer
Tony, is it worth trying to convince you to put the original color back on it? To me 50s always look like they're misunderstood in matte or satin black. You probably think you didn't do good enough work on the metal, but I assure you that a 70% effort from Fitzee's Fab is better than 100% from some folks.
Bodywork on this is not ment for shiny paint. It was a shiny mint green when I got it and the sides of the car looked like a dogs stomach. Drove me nut looking at it.
Not being a painter but would it be possible to start the roof from the windows up and then the other side from the centre down so avoiding the dry edge!
That's what I did. Ended in middle of roof on one side started in middle of roof on other side. Stuff just set up too quick
Did you try spraying any test pieces with their recommended 4:1 without any thinners?
Nope. Mix and jumped right into it. Was never one for spray out cards. Only time used those was on color matching a car
Should have gone with lilac, nobody would have noticed or dared comment ................as always - thanks
Would dropping the pressure you painted at have helped even with the thinners in? Less air more paint ?
This stuff just dried crazy fast. Even when I put it on thick it never even flowed. It just set up how it was applied
Did you look at the ingredients list to see what they're using for the base and use that to thin it to see if it'll flow better
Never got that deep into it but it do have alot of dryers added to flatten it out
For house paint you can get an additive to slow the drying down, a retarder. Use when the weather is really hot. Can you get something similar for car paint? Ive never needed it so never looked.
I see in the comments below, a car painter suggesting slow reducer. Might be worth a go as the extra uv protection of the better paint will definitely be an advantage in the long run.
Yes you can get a retarded for this paint. Having to experiment some more with this paint is not my plan. Going to spray it with a paint I know well
Do they make a satin clearcoat and would that even work?
Still needs to be sanded and I say I'll be braking threw some spots.
Hey man, the fan up high like that. I used to have a similar setup, but is it actually any different or better if it sites on ground level?
I gad both setups and much the same affect. I have it where it is so it's out of the way
@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp appreciate the response man! Hoping to paint my car Wednesday
Slow reduction maybe
That needed a 220 dry da sanding
You have a super attitude. I would have been upset. Have you ever thought about a wrap?
Nope. Not a easy car to rap. Those quarters would be a nightmare
You can use a slow reducer so the paint dries slower and flows better. Some paints even have slow hardener to do sort of the same thing. Never sprayed what you used but I have shot about any paint ever made and under every type of condition. You could help yourself by purchasing a professional gun, I have one that would shoot that paint well with a slow reducer. Remember, the paint has to go on wet, with half overlap on passes and keeping the edge wet so you don’t get streaks as it flows out before curing and drying takes place. Your technique was not ideal and you went from thin to thick paint. So drying too fast first and streaky, then to, I am only guessing, clogged spray gun tip issues. No worries, it is only paint, you learned and next time you will have better results. One tip for the roof would be to shoot bottom up on the first side and top down on the second side so you follow the wet edge. Trickier to keep the air line and yourself out of the paint going bottom up but depending on the paint sometimes you can’t leave the wet edge or you will see it once the paint dries that you went dry edge to wet paint. I have had my share of paint disasters, my heart goes out to you. Better luck next time.
@keithroute8906 what you say is right. Problem is there is no wet edge. Like yourself I painted all sorts of material in the last 30 years. I did make mistakes with some of my guesses and each one lead to the next problem. But at end of the day is was first time spraying it and I took a guess at the mixture with thinners. But I'm willing to say that adding retarder to the paint and using a slow reducer might of changed it a bit. But I still feel it would of been a major problem. There was no flow what so ever. Dump it on wet and it dried looking how you applied it.
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp I realize you are spraying unknown quality paint. If you can’t spray and keep a wet edge, then it comes to adjusting air and paint, if you can’t turn the air down enough that it is not drying the paint before it hits the surface causing no wet edge to chase then you need a better gun or needed slow reducer or you are spraying incredibly bad paint. Upping the paint quality can in itself forgive a few painting sins. I sprayed with a Binks can gun like you shot for years. I also have an unnamed can gun that shoots well. I now have a gravity feed low pressure gun that rocks paint jobs. I run at 40 PSI at the compressor so it may be at 30 or so at that gun. There is a way to spray near perfect jobs from a can gun, however the new pro guns are like a recurve bow to a modern crossbow as a comparison. Just lays the paint out in a large perfect misty fan and after the first coat the paint flows all together and the car looks so good you could stop right there after one coat if you ran out of paint. That is the difference. My work speaks for itself but I know guys even better than me at spraying cars with less disasters. You obviously know what you are doing and have sprayed your share of cars so yes good paint and the car will look sweet on a reshoot. Sometimes cheap paint is almost unsprayable with an old gun. A cheap gravity feed disposable gun from Canadian Princess is not what I am taking about. There are a lot of good car painters on utube that do gun reviews and gun spray offs. A really good gun is still cheaper than a 500 dollar can of paint and if you are spraying good paint you want a professional gun and learn it is easy to keep it clean and you can always spray cheap paint as well with it later or whenever. A modern pro gun can make the same cheap paint spray, flow and actually look good. Slow reducer works wonders as well. If you are shooting in heat you must use slow reducer or you suffer a dry spray. Turning down the air causes tip clogs and globlets in the paint adding more air will dry even more paint in the air causing the paint to roll into paint dust balls. One last tip, the moment you realize you have a problem, something seems off, stop spraying and figure it out. You will thank yourself a hundred times over.
Could you scuff it down and clear coat it with satin clear?
Could but I expect to brake threw in some spots where it is very dry.
A slower reducer mabe ?
Ya it might of worked but it will still not flow and nice as I wanted
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp That was quick Tony , I only just finished watching the video
That sucks.
Have you ever considered wrapping ‘er?? I think she’d look spectacular with a “Fitzee’s Fabrication” logo all over ‘er..
Never . I think the curves shapes would cause trouble
did not hear an exhaust fan
@@edrosa5079 there was one on when I was painting.
@@fitzeesfabrication.thefl-nf7hp I could hear it.
Oh that's primer my bad
Don't she look lovely with the wet look - never liked satin finish.
I had lots of shiny cars and as a painter I use to love the look of cars with just the base on them. You see the styles and lines of the car better.
I see the line in the paint it is very blotchy . that is very frustrating. I found PPG paint and primer work awesome cost more but i know it will not let me down when it counts . but having said that perhaps the hardener was not suited to the temperature you were spraying at this new stuff has temperature specific hardener .just a thought . Good to see ya giviner Tony . i loves that old Chevy it is a classic . had one once hope to have one again someday.
Tony, Tony, Tony, you’re as bad & cheap as me you shouldn’t of cheeped out on the paint because you got the activator for nothing stick with what you know and pay for the extra for the activator🫰🫰🫰😜🤣 I am definitely the same.$$$ TA
My trimclad mix don't take a activator.