When I built my first shed, I thought that if I just leveled/plumbed up the walls and tied them together, it would be correct. But I learned that the walls can twist and "rack" out of plumb after they're up.. It wasn't until I put up the ridge beam and rafters that I noticed the whole thing was racked out of true plumb. I should've braced the walls to keep them square when I built them. Then leave them in place until I get the sheathing on. You have to brace them on the inside of the wall. A builder friend of mine told me that... later on.. :-) I think the tongue and groove process reduces the width of the plywood. I wouldn't use it on a shed anyway. I use screws on normal plywood. They hold great... 15 yrs. and my shed is still standing straight.. No fixing or adjustment needed.
Should have run the sheets perpendicular to the floor joists plus stagger them. A lot stronger plus still can get away with 3 sheets. 8ft 4ft, other row 4ft 8ft.
Lovely Video! Sorry for butting in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you thought about - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (do a search on google)? It is a smashing one off product for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my mate after a lifetime of fighting got excellent success with it.
Looking good Thomas (I mean the shed of course).... =) It is coming along nicely. On a side note, I bought a cheap $75 framing nailer off Amazon and at first it had issues driving the nails completely even at 110 psi. I then removed the rubber pad that was attached to the head of the nailer and use it now without the rubber pad. It drives the nails completely every time even at 90 psi. Anyway, I don't know if you tried that yet? Kee up the good work Buddy!
thanks. yeah, the rubber pad had to go! But I still had issues. I think it really boils down to the fact that the compressor just barely makes 120 psi and the nailer needs at least 120 psi to work. Incidentally, the roofing nailer was flawless. It operated at much lower pressure and never half-sunk a nail once. Of course it is a Botstich and a much higher quality tool... I would have used the excuse to get a new compressor, but I rarely use the portable one and I have a huge 220v one I am restoring for the shop.
Also, take into consideration that if your floor joist are 8 ft long you have to remember that the rim joist will tack on 1.5” on each side, making your frame 8’ frame actually 8’ 3”. Rookie mistake, but hey I’ve made that error to plenty but the shed looks good!
T&G is made from the same 4x8 sheets that is not T&G. It's just they're routered down and so you're going to lose 1/2" on the tongue portion since it's going into the groove of another sheet. They don't make special sheets just for T&G so that's why you're short on it.
I almost always put R-13 insulation in the floor and use hardware cloth into the ground on the perimeter to keep rats from making a home under there. I also frame it so it is ready for insulation and OSB on the inside. So often people want to put a little heat in the shed so the items in there don't rust and you can store paper files. Of course, they decide they want to heat it after about one year but it is all ready for little extra money.
Re: tongue and groove. I agree. And with the shed I'm going to build being off grid, I don't have time lolol to trim a 4x8 because the pieces are short. That's the whole point of using a standard 8x12 size, right? Convenience. I looked at Home Depot this evening and will prob upgrade to some $54 a sheet birch plywood. Looks awesome and is right on 4x8. For what will eventually be a craft/hobby/tool shed, that birch will look really nice long term. Good job on the subfloor!! ;-)
Going under $1000 is not only saving money. But also preventing ahole neighbors from killing your building permit out of spite. Here any shed under 1k does not require permit
Yep ... I've had MANY 4x8 sheets that were NOT 4x8, some were slightly more, some slightly less... And when your building and calculating, it's all good until you put it all together and realize... Wtf..?? By then it's too late and you have to start pulling shit out and getting more wood to compensate and fill in the gaps ... After a few builds I learned to measure everything to make sure it's at least 4x8 all around or else I put it back on the shelf.. Same goes for the 2x4's and 2x6's ... There's nothing more frustrating than bringing home the wood and realizing it's half and inch or 1/4 inch too short.. It's all fine if you don't need the full amount, you can trim back to what you need but when it's shorter, now it's worthless to you.. Or if it's longer, you trim it back... Good job btw.. I'm in the process of building an 8x16 shed in the back but "permits" are holding me back... They want my materials and plan layouts before they can approve it to give me my permission to build it.. Building on my own I'm going to save a ton of $$ but the hassle they are putting me thru is really Agrivating, sure it's easier to pay a company to build me a shed and pull my permits but we are talking double or triple the amount... Man do I really hate the county... Greedy crooks there are
i always run intonthat issue .. injust split the diference between gaps .. by 1/8 and you should be fine .. u can also nail a 2x4 before the last 2x6 .. and yes i saw unleft the hammer under when u where installing the last playwood 😂
sucks about the plywood dimensions. ive learned to always double check after i got some ply that measured 48-1/8" couldnt figure out why my overall dimensions didnt match my plans lol
I may be wrong but it looks like he used screws in the hangers. You need to use the properly designated size nail for the hangers. Dry wall screws are not forgiving and don't bend they break. Does it matter much for a small shed, probably not. If you were building a larger building it would and wouldn't be to code.
+Omar Argullin thanks, I'm sorry, but I do not have a list of materials. There are lots of resources online to help out and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have.
How come that stood up without bracing, you were able to nail it down without any help, this is a first on youtube. I clicked onto a guy that said how to build a shed by youself while all the videos, he had a helper!
I said the same thing you did about the wall not falling over... I have seen dozens of these videos and it seems like everyone that builds these walls just push them upright ... And they self balance :-) don't know how but they do...
Tongue and groove is meant to go across the floor joists of a house, you should have bought flat edge sheeting or run the sheets 90 degrees to what you ran them. Live and learn.
great job Thomas it's coming along really well. although I could have built the whole shed in about an hour and a half hahaha. can't wait to the next video
+Opa's Workshop lol I'm sure you could. This one seemed a lot more difficult physically than the last one was 5 years ago. Makes me want to invoke the age-old mantra "Getting old sucks"
Thomas Lightle - Red Barn Woodworking I know what you mean brother I'd be lucky if at my age if I could get the wood cut in an hour and a half lol. Hey are u going to the show in Collinsville in February?
You know I'll be there! I wish I could afford a booth. I think it would be awesome to advertise the ol' UA-cams there. I may just walk around with a sign attached to me or something...
If you can hammer, you can hammer with a $4.99 wood-handled hammer you grab from the bottom shelf in that bin at home depot. Don't let anyone hammer-shame you. It's a whack behavior. Hammer time!
I cannot believe the pettiness of some of your viewers, If someone told me I was swinging a hammer wrong they would probably end up wearing the hammer on top of their heads. As long as you get the nails in it does not matter how you hit them ( the nails not the viewers) I don't know why they make plywood in that odd size either I think it might be to bugger up your plans? or some stupid metric thing where inches don't equate exactly to centimetres.
+John Fithian-Franks Thanks, John. The anonymity provided by the internet seems to bring out the worst in some people. You should have seen the hundreds of horrible things said about me and my family I removed from the comments section. I have been thinking about the plywood thing also. I think that most projects aren't built with dimensions in exact multiples of 4. So as long as one dimension aligns with a multiple of 16 (the 8-foot length) then the other dimension doesn't matter so much. It only matters on small projects like a shed.
The 4x8 sheets might have been a screw up at the factory... Could have made a ton and never calibrated the machines and now they have probably thousands of sheets that are not 4x8, but what are they going to do..?? Throw them out..?. No way. Sell them and hope the customer does not catch it until he gets home and realizes that they are not 4x8 ... Then what, bring it back...?? Nah too much trouble, just put in it and get another piece and fill in the missing part
Your the kind of guy that will go through his whole career doing things the wrong way. There's nothing wrong with doing something wrong. There's something wrong when you can't accept correction.
All wood should be 6 inches minimum from the dirt and you put your plywood the same direction as your floor Joyce’s.. that’s OK man I remember those days .
When I built my first shed, I thought that if I just leveled/plumbed up the walls and tied them together, it would be correct. But I learned that the walls can twist and "rack" out of plumb after they're up.. It wasn't until I put up the ridge beam and rafters that I noticed the whole thing was racked out of true plumb. I should've braced the walls to keep them square when I built them. Then leave them in place until I get the sheathing on. You have to brace them on the inside of the wall. A builder friend of mine told me that... later on.. :-) I think the tongue and groove process reduces the width of the plywood. I wouldn't use it on a shed anyway. I use screws on normal plywood. They hold great... 15 yrs. and my shed is still standing straight.. No fixing or adjustment needed.
The 47-1/2" thing got me the first time I used T&G too. Had to run back and pick up another sheet and rip into strips to make up the dif.
Haha! The hammer dialogue was hilarious!
Should have run the sheets perpendicular to the floor joists plus stagger them. A lot stronger plus still can get away with 3 sheets. 8ft 4ft, other row 4ft 8ft.
I was wondering about that. I saw another DIY builder use that same strategy.
I was wondering about that. I saw another DIY builder use that same strategy.
Lovely Video! Sorry for butting in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you thought about - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (do a search on google)? It is a smashing one off product for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my mate after a lifetime of fighting got excellent success with it.
Looking good Thomas (I mean the shed of course).... =) It is coming along nicely. On a side note, I bought a cheap $75 framing nailer off Amazon and at first it had issues driving the nails completely even at 110 psi. I then removed the rubber pad that was attached to the head of the nailer and use it now without the rubber pad. It drives the nails completely every time even at 90 psi. Anyway, I don't know if you tried that yet? Kee up the good work Buddy!
thanks. yeah, the rubber pad had to go! But I still had issues. I think it really boils down to the fact that the compressor just barely makes 120 psi and the nailer needs at least 120 psi to work. Incidentally, the roofing nailer was flawless. It operated at much lower pressure and never half-sunk a nail once. Of course it is a Botstich and a much higher quality tool... I would have used the excuse to get a new compressor, but I rarely use the portable one and I have a huge 220v one I am restoring for the shop.
Also, take into consideration that if your floor joist are 8 ft long you have to remember that the rim joist will tack on 1.5” on each side, making your frame 8’ frame actually 8’ 3”. Rookie mistake, but hey I’ve made that error to plenty but the shed looks good!
Psssh L corner and trim....🤗 what gap?
3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Tongue & Groove Underlayment Pressure-Treated Plywood is 48" x 96". It includes the tongue.
No same thing with two by four they're not two by fours when you measure it it's 1 and 1/2 by 3 and 1/2
T&G is made from the same 4x8 sheets that is not T&G. It's just they're routered down and so you're going to lose 1/2" on the tongue portion since it's going into the groove of another sheet. They don't make special sheets just for T&G so that's why you're short on it.
good job...dont sweat the bad reviews. No ones born a carpenter..we learned from our mistakes. we all make them.
That little commentary about the “hammerskillz”, was hilarious. You seem to have some understanding of how you should build. Good job!
I almost always put R-13 insulation in the floor and use hardware cloth into the ground on the perimeter to keep rats from making a home under there. I also frame it so it is ready for insulation and OSB on the inside. So often people want to put a little heat in the shed so the items in there don't rust and you can store paper files. Of course, they decide they want to heat it after about one year but it is all ready for little extra money.
What is hardware cloth? I think rats can get through any cloth
Hardware cloth is a steel wire mesh
@@jesse2006 It is the galvanized wire mesh and in the U.S. it comes with 1/2 inch mesh or 1/4 inch mesh.
Re: tongue and groove. I agree. And with the shed I'm going to build being off grid, I don't have time lolol to trim a 4x8 because the pieces are short. That's the whole point of using a standard 8x12 size, right? Convenience. I looked at Home Depot this evening and will prob upgrade to some $54 a sheet birch plywood. Looks awesome and is right on 4x8. For what will eventually be a craft/hobby/tool shed, that birch will look really nice long term. Good job on the subfloor!! ;-)
Dude the hell with them haters you are truly a carpenter God
I saw the hammer right away. LOL
Going under $1000 is not only saving money. But also preventing ahole neighbors from killing your building permit out of spite. Here any shed under 1k does not require permit
Our rule here is anything under 200 sq. ft. Doesn’t require a permit.
Yep ... I've had MANY 4x8 sheets that were NOT 4x8, some were slightly more, some slightly less... And when your building and calculating, it's all good until you put it all together and realize... Wtf..?? By then it's too late and you have to start pulling shit out and getting more wood to compensate and fill in the gaps ... After a few builds I learned to measure everything to make sure it's at least 4x8 all around or else I put it back on the shelf.. Same goes for the 2x4's and 2x6's ... There's nothing more frustrating than bringing home the wood and realizing it's half and inch or 1/4 inch too short.. It's all fine if you don't need the full amount, you can trim back to what you need but when it's shorter, now it's worthless to you.. Or if it's longer, you trim it back...
Good job btw.. I'm in the process of building an 8x16 shed in the back but "permits" are holding me back... They want my materials and plan layouts before they can approve it to give me my permission to build it.. Building on my own I'm going to save a ton of $$ but the hassle they are putting me thru is really Agrivating, sure it's easier to pay a company to build me a shed and pull my permits but we are talking double or triple the amount...
Man do I really hate the county... Greedy crooks there are
Same actor that does Outdoors with the Morgan’s!
Actually I believe it’s Bruce Willis!
i always run intonthat issue .. injust split the diference between gaps .. by 1/8 and you should be fine .. u can also nail a 2x4 before the last 2x6 .. and yes i saw unleft the hammer under when u where installing the last playwood 😂
sucks about the plywood dimensions. ive learned to always double check after i got some ply that measured 48-1/8" couldnt figure out why my overall dimensions didnt match my plans lol
I may be wrong but it looks like he used screws in the hangers. You need to use the properly designated size nail for the hangers. Dry wall screws are not forgiving and don't bend they break. Does it matter much for a small shed, probably not. If you were building a larger building it would and wouldn't be to code.
+cpoul good point and you may be right. I don't remember what I used, but there is a good chance I did use drywall screws if they were laying around.
Looking good so far!! Thanks!!
Thanks, Ken!
Thomas Lightle - Red Barn Woodworking hey man. i like shed you built. One question how much was your total spent? estimate please keep up good Work
+Omar Argullin it cost me $1000. I did build it in the cold season when building supply prices are lower
wow thats a really decent price for that nice looking shed. Do u have a list Of Materials?
+Omar Argullin thanks, I'm sorry, but I do not have a list of materials. There are lots of resources online to help out and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have.
How come that stood up without bracing, you were able to nail it down without any help, this is a first on youtube. I clicked onto a guy that said how to build a shed by youself while all the videos, he had a helper!
I guarantee I was by myself. The walls were so small, I was able to balance them long enough to nail them together. They were really lightweight.
I said the same thing you did about the wall not falling over... I have seen dozens of these videos and it seems like everyone that builds these walls just push them upright ... And they self balance :-) don't know how but they do...
Also by the way I didn't use Annie Nails I used all screws
It makes you have to buy an extra sheet of t&g ply.
I will NEVER use TNG ( tongue and groove) plywood again as I had the exact same problem..
Tongue and groove is meant to go across the floor joists of a house, you should have bought flat edge sheeting or run the sheets 90 degrees to what you ran them. Live and learn.
the hammer comment rucked me up
What if you used wood glue on everything? Does that help along with nails to avoid creaking over time?
Not sure, but if I were to do it, I would use construction adhesive over wood glue. I doubt it would make much difference, though
Go Cougars!
Can you please tell me where you bought those cement blocks? Thanks.
Any large home center will carry them. I got mine at Home Depot.
great job Thomas it's coming along really well. although I could have built the whole shed in about an hour and a half hahaha. can't wait to the next video
+Opa's Workshop lol I'm sure you could. This one seemed a lot more difficult physically than the last one was 5 years ago. Makes me want to invoke the age-old mantra "Getting old sucks"
Thomas Lightle - Red Barn Woodworking I know what you mean brother I'd be lucky if at my age if I could get the wood cut in an hour and a half lol. Hey are u going to the show in Collinsville in February?
You know I'll be there! I wish I could afford a booth. I think it would be awesome to advertise the ol' UA-cams there. I may just walk around with a sign attached to me or something...
Research the project, Live and learn, take care.
If you can hammer, you can hammer with a $4.99 wood-handled hammer you grab from the bottom shelf in that bin at home depot. Don't let anyone hammer-shame you. It's a whack behavior. Hammer time!
Never thought in my life I would be a victim of hammer-shaming, but here we are.
It's a topsy turvey time we live in.
Leave the tag on the hammer, you get better mileage that way.
Why did you waste all that money on gravel and plastic?
I cannot believe the pettiness of some of your viewers, If someone told me I was swinging a hammer wrong they would probably end up wearing the hammer on top of their heads. As long as you get the nails in it does not matter how you hit them ( the nails not the viewers) I don't know why they make plywood in that odd size either I think it might be to bugger up your plans? or some stupid metric thing where inches don't equate exactly to centimetres.
+John Fithian-Franks Thanks, John. The anonymity provided by the internet seems to bring out the worst in some people. You should have seen the hundreds of horrible things said about me and my family I removed from the comments section. I have been thinking about the plywood thing also. I think that most projects aren't built with dimensions in exact multiples of 4. So as long as one dimension aligns with a multiple of 16 (the 8-foot length) then the other dimension doesn't matter so much. It only matters on small projects like a shed.
The 4x8 sheets might have been a screw up at the factory... Could have made a ton and never calibrated the machines and now they have probably thousands of sheets that are not 4x8, but what are they going to do..?? Throw them out..?. No way. Sell them and hope the customer does not catch it until he gets home and realizes that they are not 4x8 ... Then what, bring it back...?? Nah too much trouble, just put in it and get another piece and fill in the missing part
Your the kind of guy that will go through his whole career doing things the wrong way. There's nothing wrong with doing something wrong. There's something wrong when you can't accept correction.
All wood should be 6 inches minimum from the dirt and you put your plywood the same direction as your floor Joyce’s.. that’s OK man I remember those days .
Um your hammer is under the shed LMAO
Get a tool belt..
Lol come on buddy everyone knows you leave the tag on
Who cares what people think