10 Min Amp Kits are available on our store, thank you for your support! www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=639
@@nervedamage3097 Im playing a song called "fingers randomly flying all over the fretboard" :D sorry for the sarcasm and thanks for your comments guys, i appreciate it
I am actually looking at putting a simple MOSFET boost/preamp with some sort of tone stack. The trick with this piece is keeping the parts count low as we wanted a small, easy kit.
I would really like to at least have a schematic for that, Erik. Gain and even just a treble control that will match up with your amp and run off same power source. That would be really helpful.
TDA7266M is a bridge amplifier, so its negative output (pin 2, OUT 1- ) cannot be shorted to ground.The output socket must be isolated from the metal housing.
This is correct. This is why in the build doc, it specifically states that the output jack must be isolated (usually plastic) so it doesn't ground out with the chassis. The big tab on the TDA7266M on the other hand, that would benefit greatly by grounding it to the chassis. Not just for the sake of grounding, but also for the sake of being a heat sink.
I'll bet a pair of those, built into a couple of individual boxes with a couple of 6" 10watt full-range speakers would make a half decent little mobile stereo setup for modeling pedals
Hi Sangr, basically the 2 things you'd be looking at are C1 and to a lesser extent, C3. C1 is the input filter. The larger the value, the more bass frequencies it will let in, but it also will make the sound be a bit darker because of it. For a bass, this may be desired as the larger bass frequencies may outweigh the darkness of the tone. So, going from a 10nF cap to a 100nF or larger may be advised. C3 is just a general power capacitor, but when dealing with class A-B amplifiers that are solid state, it needs larger capacitance to handle slugging low frequencies. That's why Woofer circuits tend to have some large caps in them. 220uF should be sufficient, but a woofer circuit I saw using the same TDA7266M chip did use 470uF capacitors instead, but was probably doing it to handle those sub-bass frequencies.
Hi! Hopefully you see this and can offer some advice. I received the kit, wired it up, plug it into my Marshall 1x12, turn on the power switch, LED lights up, but no sound. I turn the volume knob halfway, nothing. All the way, nothing. I took measurements with my voltage meter and get no voltage on any of the three points in the pot. I get readings on all the caps and resistors. And I get readings on some but not all points on the op amp. What am I missing? I've checked all of my solder points and they look good.
Have a few questions. 1. Can I series two sets of paralleled 9 volts batteries into 18 volt, and how many batteries would that require to run this amp, for say 4h of jamming at 50% volume on this little amp? 2. I have some small speakers from an old surround sound system, 15 watts, but 4 ohm. I have 4 of those, will this amp be okay to drive 4x4ohm series wired speakers (16ohm "aproximately")? 3. If #2 wont work, can I just series 2 of those speakers to hit approx. 8ohm, would that work? 4. Is it a possibility to run two amps into those speakers at the same time to get some "headroom" to drive the speakers without burning amp or speakers? 4a. If #4 is even possible, can I solder just one volume pot to both amps, so they they are like "matched" in output? -and would this require another value pot? 5. If I push the input a little with a tube OD pedal turned up a bit extra, does that change any of the above answers, or is this a bad idea to begin with?
As of the batteries, that's a hard to gauge question. The amount of current consumption varies drastically depending on what you are playing through it. If playing quiet single notes on the higher frets, for example, it may consume little current. Chugging hard on a palm muted E5 chord will consume a lot more. Putting an OD before the amp will drive it harder and therefore consume more current. Even the volume knob position plays a role. All these variables will effect the battery life. As of speakers, so long as you get 8-ohms of impedance, you should be good. Just make sure your wire lengths don't create an "out of phase" issue. I wouldn't recommend two amps into one speaker.
Just another question: so 15 V and 0,42amp will power this thing right? I just had another thought: can i put my 12V 1amp dc power supply in an input and instead of just one +and one - cable i put 2 on each side Will that give me 2x 12V with 0,5ampere or am i completly wrong It's just becouse of some reasons i want to build my own power supply and i'm not that good at this and more put some things together
So, the power rating for this will accept 15V. It draws a bit of current, especially when you push it with something, like a large boost, but 420mA should be able to work with most speakers you'd likely be pushing. As of your power supply, the 12V 1A delivery is likely limited by the electronics inside and not your wiring. So, splitting up your wiring will not "divide" your current. As of "+" and "-", one is your negative wire, or ground, and the other is "hot" or 12V. Both wires will be needed to deliver power somewhere.
Hi Andrew, so we sold out a little quicker then anticipated, but we have a large quantity coming in soon, hoping late this week early next week. Thanks for your patience!
If really love a video on adding a FMV style tone stack to this build. Or just a simple one dial tone. Hell or a 3 way switch capacitor tone control would be cool.
I'm a beginner, and I'm trying to build this amp from the parts list and schematic but I'm having a bit of difficulty. I'm hoping I can get a bit of help from the veteran pedalsmiths out there. I'm starting with a breadboard before I commit it to soldering, but there are a couple of spots in the schematic that puzzle me. First, there are no (-) connections for power or signal input. I'm assuming that in the kit these are provided by grounding the jacks to the enclosure, correct? If so, should I be able to connect the negative side of the power and signal-in jacks to common ground on the breadboard? If that's the case, are there any other spots where the grounding is not explicit? Second, I don't understand the notation "3*2" at the VCC connector on the TDA7226M. The datasheet for the IC says that pins 3 and 13 are both VCC. What connection(s) am I supposed to make here? 3 and 13? Forgive me if I'm overlooking something obvious. As I said, I'm just getting into the hobby, and this is my first build. I'm eager to get it working. Thanks for any assistance you can offer. Cheers!
No worries. Your input power ground just goes to common ground, along with the input jack's sleeve. Do not connect the output jack sleeve to ground. That will kill the signal. The 3*2 is an EAGLE Cad artifact. You are correct, though, pins 3 and 13 go to positive voltage.
Is it possible to change the Tda7266m for another model? Because I live in Brazil and I couldn't find anywhere, the only one available here is the Tda7266s. Thank you
Question : So if theres a build wich has more knobs like tone/mid/vol(maybe gain too idk) and instand of the output a speaker wired up i could use that thing for my build-in-amp for my diy travell semihollow telecaster powered by a powerbank with usb to 9dv cable is that right? Would it fit if i cover the speakers backs with copper/shielding tape???
Hi Alex, it would have to be an off board, but the idea would be to inject a tone control between the input guitar jack and where the input guitar jack connects to on the PCB. So basically, your tone-control circuit goes in between the guitar in and PCB. Lastly, you will need to provide a common ground to it. A simple way, would be to wire it like a tone knob from a guitar. The only limitations you would have, really, is the size of the enclosure. Like you couldn't inject a Rock Bottom PCB into it unless enclosure was big enough to house both PCBs.
10 minutes for you lolol probably at least an hour for me but I'm just now getting back into it and the ol' eyeballs ain't what they used to be 😖Great video!!
So when i want to build Speakers to the Amp, do they need to be powered on there own? Or does the Amp also Power the speakers? I'm new to all that stuff but I find it really interested so a answer would be nice
In this case, the 10 Min Amp has a power amplifier, which in turn drives the speakers without needing an external power source. If it was just a "pre-amp", then it would require a means of driving those speakers.
Sure. So long as the enclosure you use has the room for it, you can slap any effect pedal circuit inside the enclosure and put it inline with the guitar input jack.
Hey gang, I just built mine and the level seems low. I have to turn it up all the way to get any sort of level out of it. While I understand it's a small amp, seems quiet. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
Hi Bakewelder. There's a few things that influence output volume. Source voltage, speaker size and input signal level. Although they are all important the later (guitar signal level) actually plays a significant role. Trying boosting your guitar signal and see if that helps. Cheers.
Hi Badgeholder, you can. Due to this being a solid-state Class A-B Mono Bridge Amplifier, adding headphones is just a matter of adding a headphone jack. No additional resistors or anything like that to add a load. A warning though, it will be loud, so you will most likely want to turn the volume down. If using stereo head phones, you will need to wire both left and right channels to the output+ and ground to the output-
@@erikvincent5846 I didn't think it was that simple Eric(?) - if you just do as you describe you'd likely blow your nice expensive cans! One should really have a dedicated phone-out stage in the circuit. Something like this www.electronics-diy.com/4x4.php
@@wodenoftheangles3339 it would work, just make sure you have the volume way down. Typically additional circuitry for head phones out is just to give it a unity with the cabinet. Where at about noon on the volume, it is pretty loud on the cabinet, but tolerable, that same noon would blow out your ear drums. But at a 1, it would work on the headphones alrighty, but be quiet on a cabinet. So that extra circuitry just would make noon not as loud on the headphones, but be normal on the cabinet. Basically a buffer and an attenuator.
Hi! When this is cranked, does the sound get slightly distorted? Im looking for a loud, as clean as possible amp. What voltage/speaker combinations would help with using this? Thanks!
The more volts, the more headroom, which would result in less likelihood of clipping and distorting. So 16 to 18V power supplies will give you that. Speakers, I could go all day on. I got a Harley Benton 2x12 with Celestion Vintage 30s from Thomann and it rocks. Just get a good cabinet, and that will be it.
As Erik said, to get the most clean headroom you want to run the power supply at the highest voltage that the power amp IC is rated for. In this case that appears to be 18 vdc. Alternately you could search for a replacement IC rated for higher voltage and then beef up the power supply. But the higher the power the greater the cost (and the more the need for a heat sink/cooling system.) Realistically speaking, these are solid state watts, so even going to 24+ vdc is not going to get you a whole lot of added volume.
Hi Paul & Erik, I just finished building this and cannot get any output using my guitar which is equipped with active EMG pickups. If I use a guitar with passive pickups I get sound, although it is very low output. The EMG guitar works with my other amps. Do you know what might be the cause of this? Edit: I’ve been going over the build to check everything is wired correctly, and when using the multimeter in continuity mode, the input jack tip is registering as being connected to ground (this is obviously the issue), but I have no solder bridges, and everything is wired correctly. Not sure where to go from here.
If you are certain there are no solder bridges nor and bad wiring, you may have a bad component. I'd check the following 1. The volume pot. The volume pot connects the input tip to pin 1 of the pot, while pin 3 of the pot is ground. If internally, that is broke, it may shunt to ground 2. The D1 diode is on upside-down or is on right-side-up, but is dead (internally shunted). When diodes "die" half the time, they blow apart, but the other half of the time, they fuse together and become a near 0 ohm resistor, which in turn shunts to ground. 3. C2, C3, and or C4 are damaged internally. I see this more with box film caps more than any other. Basically, the internals are touching leads, which turns the capacitor into a resistor. If a capacitor not in any board shows a low value of resistance between its two leads with a multimeter, that capacitor is probably not good and will ultimately shunt something (in this case, to ground)
Thanks for the response Erik, I’ve been messing around with it, and it works fine now, also added a +9v to +18v charge pump to get the max wattage. Running through a 50 watt 12 inch Jensen Falcon with a DIY Friedman Buxom Boost in front of the amp is INSANELY loud 😃👍. Still can’t get it to work with active pickups though.
Another great kit 👍. I would like to build it and make a few changes. How would I make it stereo? I want to run 2 4x12 cabs. Do I need to increase the wattage? Please let me know I definitely want to build this ASAP. Thanks
You could use two TDA7266M ICs but you would probably want to buffer (copy) the input and feed the original signal to one TDA7266M (left) and the copy to the other TDA7266M (right). I would look into using something like the TDA2009A instead, which was designed for stereo (input and output).
Pretty much what Haze said. You could run a pair of mono outputs instead of a single, and it will work, but it will cut down on the sound quality and volume.
So does this cover both the pre and power amp stages? So could it be wired directly to a speaker? I’m thinking it would be great for a micro amp for testing pedals.
That was an option we looked at. However, to make this work, we also know that the DIY community typically favors through-hole design over surface mount. The PAM8403 from Diodes Inc only comes in SOIC/SOP-16. I've heard that at one time it had a DIP-16 version, but that version is out-of-print. www.digikey.com/products/en/integrated-circuits-ics/linear-amplifiers-audio/742?k=PAM8403
I’m new to guitars. Can someone explain what this does? Like can I connect this amp to any speaker I have lying around and play my guitar through there? Can I use old PC speakers?
Usually, yes. However, you may want to check out the speaker impedances before trying. If not rated well enough, it could blow the speaker at high volumes.
@@erikvincent5846 Correction. The risk is actually to overheat the amplifier portion of the circuit. It’s ALWAYS safe to use speakers of a HIGHER impedance than the output recommended for the amp. It sounds counterintuitive but that’s how it works.
The non M version is stereo and will required some hook ups that are not available on this board to force it to work in mono. So, you will need the M version.
Probably grainier, slightly dirty and bassier. If you add an EQ to the front of it though (or even just a dirt pedal with tone control) the tone becomes more versatile.
Is it possible to add the classic boost circuit before the amp circuit to form some kind of preamp? Have them both connected to a single 9V psu? Thank you
how do these work for acoustic? (piezo) I am experimenting with a setup inside a guitar case I am building, two of these for stereo, and will test some simple car speakers to get full tone range for classical or western. Sound too crazy?
Correct me if I am wrong, since this is a Solid State and not a tube amp, the output should stay somewhat consistent with different speaker resistance. Regardless, I'd be very happy if I got 5 W out of this into my 8/16 (it's selectable) 4x12 speaker array. It will be more than adequate for home practice and possibly OK for small gig venues. Please chime in your thoughts, thanks!
I believe I put it in the build doc, but really the only values that are needed to be manipulated for bass is changing C1 from 10nF up to something like 100nF or more. However, if trying to drive woofer speakers, then increasing C3 from 220uF up to 470uF may also be desired.
I’ve got a couple of questions before I purchase, hopefully they haven’t been asked/answered already! Does this kit maintain a clean tone at all volumes or does it break up quickly? I’m wanting to use it with a modelling pedal so the cleaner the tone the better. Also, based on the voltage/wattage chart in the manual, if I was to run this with an 18v power supply it should get the unit up to around 15 watts of power. Does that sound right? Thank you!
It's a rather good "clean" amp, which is nice when you want your pedals to do the distortion and dirt. It does break up a bit once you max out the head-room, whatever voltage that is provided.
What thickness of solder wire do you use? I have a spool of 1 mm which works great for guitar components but I'm struggling with it on a pcb. Yours looks much thinner. Thanks!
Typically, I am using AWG 24 - 26. A cheap way to get a lot of wire is to get some cheap or used network/phone cable. It's solid core and is usually AWG 26.
Hey, love your videos! I have been watching them for a long time. Something I have always wanted to learn is how to make a guitar amp for headphones. Could you build that?
@@rockstarcovers7267 So, after some experimentation, here is what I determined. The TDA7266 has some level of load protection, so technically, you can just straight wire a stereo jack to the output and get head phones to work. However, the level of volume is still pretty loud, and if cranked, it will blow the 32 ohm load, that is your headphones, especially if you put high gain pedals in front of the amp. To resolve, I am updating the build doc now, but it shows how to add a 47 to 100 ohm resistor in series with the out+ wire, which will go straight to the headphone jacks stereo left/right. I just tried that with my cheap ear buds and placed a Univox Super Fuzz cranked on it. Headphones survived, but that was a bit loud for my ears to handle for any level of time. Hope that helps.
Only temporarily. The TDA7266M has for a maximum voltage rating of 18V on its datasheet. Now in a lot of cases these companies, when writing the datasheet, are aware that some of their chips may perform at a slightly higher rate on some of these specs, but not all of them will. So, they will guarantee the lowest value that will work on ALL the chips manufactured, which would be 18V. Some chips may work at 19V. Some may work at 19V for about a week and then die. As that spec is above the manufacturers recommendations, we cannot guarantee what it will do.
Hi Ray, it was designed around the intent of an 8 ohm rig (I use my 2x12 Celestion Vintage 30's cabinet with it). However, the IC supports 4 - 16 ohms as well. If you go 4, it won't push as much for amps, but will still sound good, and 16, it will push, but the IC will get hotter than it would at 8, so heat-sinking it into the enclosure would be key.
You can build it on a strip board called veroboard, this is a board that comes in different sizes that you can snap of on the lines of perforations to required size. They come plain or with copper tracks on the bottom under side. You place the components from the top and once solderd in you make breakes for unwanted connections between components in the copper track with a 5mm drill bit.
Hi Kazz, due to this being a solid-state Class A-B Mono Bridge Amplifier, adding headphones is just a matter of adding a headphone jack. No additional resistors or anything like that to add a load. A warning though, it will be loud, so you will most likely want to turn the volume down. If using stereo head phones, you will need to wire both left and right channels to the output+ and ground to the output-
So, after some experimentation, here is what I determined. The TDA7266 has some level of load protection, so technically, you can just straight wire a stereo jack to the output and get head phones to work. However, the level of volume is still pretty loud, and if cranked, it will blow the 32 ohm load, that is your headphones, especially if you put high gain pedals in front of the amp. To resolve, I am updating the build doc now, but it shows how to add a 47 to 100 ohm resistor in series with the out+ wire, which will go straight to the headphone jacks stereo left/right. I just tried that with my cheap ear buds and placed a Univox Super Fuzz cranked on it. Headphones survived, but that was a bit loud for my ears to handle for any level of time. Hope that helps.
I believe Paul is using the line out on the 10 Minute Amp to drive the cabinet that it is sitting on in the video. The amplifier that is with that cabinet (his combo amp) is not turned on. But basically, the line-out on the 10 minute amplifier is where your speaker or cabinet would plug in.
Unless he was plugged directly into the speaker which he wasn't, he was plugged into the amp, for the speaker connected to the amp to work, so he is going to have we believe that a 9 volt battery is going to be able to turn on speakers? I mean my grandpa's new turn table can't handle anything bigger then 4ohm speakers, and that uses power from the wall So I'm pretty sure if you have to plug into the amp you are plugged into an amp? I mean then all pedals would allow you to do this? But if you think a 9v battery can power a loud speaker hahahaha! What's the point of amplifiers if his pedal and an equalizer pedal would do the same? If it connects to speakers and is designed to be used without amps why is it plugged into an amp and not just connected to speakers? I mean its not really amazing to plug a pedal into an amp and then call the pedal an amp lol! I mean he still needed an amp to use it hahaha.
@@erikvincent5846 and line out is line out he would need the amp turned on to use the line-in/aux ,and the amp would need to be turned on and plugged in to use either the input or the aux. The only way to do it without powering the amp is to be connected directly to the speakers, and giving both the speakers and the signal power. If this works without power then I should be able to take the signal from my headphones and connect that to a speaker, I should be able to here a tiny noise, or it should be as loud as headphones, I'd even say it could be quieter, but no it doesn't work.
@@evanfehr3819 if you were to take a pedal, such as an EQ, Pre-amp or any other, and plug it straight into a cabinet, it won't do anything. You do need an amplifier for that. I have my 10 Minute Amp with it's output cable plugged into my 2x12 cabinet of Celestion Vintage 30s and with the volume at max, and with the voltage for the 10 Minute Amp all the way down at 4V, it still is kind of loud. However, the current draw is reflective of that. One difference with the output of a pedal and the output of a power amplifier is the two wires on the output jack. On a pedal, typically, it's signal and ground. On an amplifier it's signal+ and signal-, not ground. Another difference, as indicated earlier, is the current. Cabinets go into the realm of 100mA and above, while pedal's (not how much current is uses to derive a signal, but how much it pushes out) is tiny. A pedal cannot deliver the power to drive the speakers, whereas a power amplifier can. On Paul's Combo, he can disconnect the amplifier built into the combo, and just use the speaker/cabinet. That's what he is doing in the video.
Hi Evan. No this is not correct you can not connect this amp to the input of an amp, it needs to connect to the speaker directly. I've connected my to the bad cats speaker in this video
Hello Erik & Paul, In response to your question, I have mentioned DIYGP to Jason and can only assume he has checked you out, he is a busy guy. I will see if it would be ok to give out his email address. I am a long time sub and will get back to you. All the best, C.
i might as well just buy a amp because all of the tools i’d have to pay for witch will come up to about the same price as the amp i want it’s just i’m a beginner and i need one asap lol
Really? I’m a beginner at DIY amps but not guitars. I picked up a solder iron for 6$ and then I have a cheap drill hanging around that was less than 20$... what amp are you looking at that’s 30$???
One great trick is using a mu-amp before the TDA. Like Jack Orman's minibooster. The sound is awesome just like a tweed amp. For more info dm me on insta @tencatecustom. I can send you a schematic.
10 Min Amp Kits are available on our store, thank you for your support! www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=639
Right at this moment your website is not responding, are you out of business or is this a fluke?
@@MikeFredensborg Hi Mike, the site is working here, try again?
@@DiyguitarpedalsAu It works now thank you, must have been a momentary glitch, thank you.
@@MikeFredensborg Good to hear Mike, let me know if you need anything else. Cheers
Are these kits available in the us as well as in australia?
The riff when you kick the overdrive in is off the chain, love it!!
Love that riff! I wanna know what it is...
@@maxs.3238 Pretty sure he's just jamming out
@@nervedamage3097 Im playing a song called "fingers randomly flying all over the fretboard" :D sorry for the sarcasm and thanks for your comments guys, i appreciate it
Rex Himself it sounds like Dinosaur jr. - without the dinosaur
@@jamesha175 Exactly what I thought, very Dinosaur jr. sounding.
That's sweet. Love the idea of making a tiny amp like this.
Ordered my kit on Feb 6th and it shipped on Feb 7th. Hopefully I get it soon. Been a long wait!
When will these be back in stock??????😮
Where would someone from the USA buy this PCB chip?
I really like the sound of your reverb.
Thanks for this, been inspired to give it a go. Just have to wait patiently for it to get over to the UK to me!
When are you going to have these amps available again?
Would like to see a suitable (FET) preamp and bass, middle, treble tone stack to stick on the font end of this.
I am actually looking at putting a simple MOSFET boost/preamp with some sort of tone stack. The trick with this piece is keeping the parts count low as we wanted a small, easy kit.
Try using your favorite distortion pedal as a preamp
I would really like to at least have a schematic for that, Erik. Gain and even just a treble control that will match up with your amp and run off same power source. That would be really helpful.
Do you have any project for a headphone amplifier for pedalboad? Something like a pedal version of amplug with 9v power.
TDA7266M is a bridge amplifier, so its negative output (pin 2, OUT 1- ) cannot be shorted to ground.The output socket must be isolated from the metal housing.
This is correct. This is why in the build doc, it specifically states that the output jack must be isolated (usually plastic) so it doesn't ground out with the chassis. The big tab on the TDA7266M on the other hand, that would benefit greatly by grounding it to the chassis. Not just for the sake of grounding, but also for the sake of being a heat sink.
I'll bet a pair of those, built into a couple of individual boxes with a couple of 6" 10watt full-range speakers would make a half decent little mobile stereo setup for modeling pedals
This is a dumb question but instead of using that black piece as the output could u just connect those wire directly to a speaker?
And if so what wattage/resistance should it be?
You could. 8 ohms of resistance, maximum of 7 watts.
Nice little amp too!
What mods would I have to do to make it work for a bass? I'd like to build a cigarette amp with this thing
Hi Sangr, basically the 2 things you'd be looking at are C1 and to a lesser extent, C3. C1 is the input filter. The larger the value, the more bass frequencies it will let in, but it also will make the sound be a bit darker because of it. For a bass, this may be desired as the larger bass frequencies may outweigh the darkness of the tone. So, going from a 10nF cap to a 100nF or larger may be advised. C3 is just a general power capacitor, but when dealing with class A-B amplifiers that are solid state, it needs larger capacitance to handle slugging low frequencies. That's why Woofer circuits tend to have some large caps in them. 220uF should be sufficient, but a woofer circuit I saw using the same TDA7266M chip did use 470uF capacitors instead, but was probably doing it to handle those sub-bass frequencies.
Hi! Hopefully you see this and can offer some advice.
I received the kit, wired it up, plug it into my Marshall 1x12, turn on the power switch, LED lights up, but no sound. I turn the volume knob halfway, nothing. All the way, nothing.
I took measurements with my voltage meter and get no voltage on any of the three points in the pot. I get readings on all the caps and resistors. And I get readings on some but not all points on the op amp.
What am I missing? I've checked all of my solder points and they look good.
Dude I’d love to see a video of you playing that plexicruise guitar rift!
Have a few questions.
1. Can I series two sets of paralleled 9 volts batteries into 18 volt, and how many batteries would that require to run this amp, for say 4h of jamming at 50% volume on this little amp?
2. I have some small speakers from an old surround sound system, 15 watts, but 4 ohm. I have 4 of those, will this amp be okay to drive 4x4ohm series wired speakers (16ohm "aproximately")?
3. If #2 wont work, can I just series 2 of those speakers to hit approx. 8ohm, would that work?
4. Is it a possibility to run two amps into those speakers at the same time to get some "headroom" to drive the speakers without burning amp or speakers?
4a. If #4 is even possible, can I solder just one volume pot to both amps, so they they are like "matched" in output? -and would this require another value pot?
5. If I push the input a little with a tube OD pedal turned up a bit extra, does that change any of the above answers, or is this a bad idea to begin with?
As of the batteries, that's a hard to gauge question. The amount of current consumption varies drastically depending on what you are playing through it. If playing quiet single notes on the higher frets, for example, it may consume little current. Chugging hard on a palm muted E5 chord will consume a lot more. Putting an OD before the amp will drive it harder and therefore consume more current. Even the volume knob position plays a role. All these variables will effect the battery life. As of speakers, so long as you get 8-ohms of impedance, you should be good. Just make sure your wire lengths don't create an "out of phase" issue. I wouldn't recommend two amps into one speaker.
Please let me know when this is back in stock, I want one!
I like your playing!
What is the speaker impedance in case of 12V supply? How to calculate this?
So this has the power to go straight form the output of the 10 min amp to the input of a 2x12/1x12? So it's speaker level out?
That is correct.
@@erikvincent5846 thanks Erik. Already received it in the post!
Sold out! Congrats! But when might you have more in stock? :-)
Thanks Jim, more in soon, hoping end of this week, early next week
Just another question: so 15 V and 0,42amp will power this thing right?
I just had another thought: can i put my 12V 1amp dc power supply in an input and instead of just one +and one - cable i put 2 on each side
Will that give me 2x 12V with 0,5ampere or am i completly wrong
It's just becouse of some reasons i want to build my own power supply and i'm not that good at this and more put some things together
So, the power rating for this will accept 15V. It draws a bit of current, especially when you push it with something, like a large boost, but 420mA should be able to work with most speakers you'd likely be pushing.
As of your power supply, the 12V 1A delivery is likely limited by the electronics inside and not your wiring. So, splitting up your wiring will not "divide" your current. As of "+" and "-", one is your negative wire, or ground, and the other is "hot" or 12V. Both wires will be needed to deliver power somewhere.
When do you expect this to be back in stock?I love it by the way!
Hi Andrew, so we sold out a little quicker then anticipated, but we have a large quantity coming in soon, hoping late this week early next week. Thanks for your patience!
@@DiyguitarpedalsAu thanks for the reply to the question I was going to ask.
If really love a video on adding a FMV style tone stack to this build. Or just a simple one dial tone. Hell or a 3 way switch capacitor tone control would be cool.
I'm a beginner, and I'm trying to build this amp from the parts list and schematic but I'm having a bit of difficulty. I'm hoping I can get a bit of help from the veteran pedalsmiths out there. I'm starting with a breadboard before I commit it to soldering, but there are a couple of spots in the schematic that puzzle me.
First, there are no (-) connections for power or signal input. I'm assuming that in the kit these are provided by grounding the jacks to the enclosure, correct? If so, should I be able to connect the negative side of the power and signal-in jacks to common ground on the breadboard? If that's the case, are there any other spots where the grounding is not explicit?
Second, I don't understand the notation "3*2" at the VCC connector on the TDA7226M. The datasheet for the IC says that pins 3 and 13 are both VCC. What connection(s) am I supposed to make here? 3 and 13?
Forgive me if I'm overlooking something obvious. As I said, I'm just getting into the hobby, and this is my first build. I'm eager to get it working. Thanks for any assistance you can offer. Cheers!
No worries. Your input power ground just goes to common ground, along with the input jack's sleeve. Do not connect the output jack sleeve to ground. That will kill the signal. The 3*2 is an EAGLE Cad artifact. You are correct, though, pins 3 and 13 go to positive voltage.
Is it possible to change the Tda7266m for another model? Because I live in Brazil and I couldn't find anywhere, the only one available here is the Tda7266s. Thank you
Question : So if theres a build wich has more knobs like tone/mid/vol(maybe gain too idk) and instand of the output a speaker wired up i could use that thing for my build-in-amp for my diy travell semihollow telecaster powered by a powerbank with usb to 9dv cable is that right? Would it fit if i cover the speakers backs with copper/shielding tape???
Paul, you rock. Any way to mod a tone control into the circuit?
Hi Alex, it would have to be an off board, but the idea would be to inject a tone control between the input guitar jack and where the input guitar jack connects to on the PCB. So basically, your tone-control circuit goes in between the guitar in and PCB. Lastly, you will need to provide a common ground to it. A simple way, would be to wire it like a tone knob from a guitar. The only limitations you would have, really, is the size of the enclosure. Like you couldn't inject a Rock Bottom PCB into it unless enclosure was big enough to house both PCBs.
@@erikvincent5846 Easy nuff, thanks!
10 minutes for you lolol probably at least an hour for me but I'm just now getting back into it and the ol' eyeballs ain't what they used to be 😖Great video!!
So when i want to build Speakers to the Amp, do they need to be powered on there own?
Or does the Amp also Power the speakers?
I'm new to all that stuff but I find it really interested so a answer would be nice
In this case, the 10 Min Amp has a power amplifier, which in turn drives the speakers without needing an external power source. If it was just a "pre-amp", then it would require a means of driving those speakers.
can I replace the TDA7266M with another one?
Unfortunately, this board was designed around the TDA7266M. If there is a chip that is pin compatible, that would work, but I am not aware of any.
That's fantastic! Do you have an eq pedal kit? Maybe something like the tone knob from an orange amp?
We have the DBE Rock Bottom, which is a 5 Band EQ. It even goes through and shows you how to set what EQ points you want those 5 to be.
@@erikvincent5846 fantastic! Thanks.
@@megan_alnico no prob.
Could be made into a pignose type of amp? Battery powered, built in distortion, etc?
Sure. So long as the enclosure you use has the room for it, you can slap any effect pedal circuit inside the enclosure and put it inline with the guitar input jack.
nice sounding! link for flexi pedal
Hello! Can I have your circuit schematic copy? please ..
Thank you, 🙏
Link in the description. Should be up.
Hey gang, I just built mine and the level seems low. I have to turn it up all the way to get any sort of level out of it. While I understand it's a small amp, seems quiet. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
Hi Bakewelder. There's a few things that influence output volume. Source voltage, speaker size and input signal level. Although they are all important the later (guitar signal level) actually plays a significant role. Trying boosting your guitar signal and see if that helps. Cheers.
Is it possible to wire up a headphone out on this one?
That was my first thought too...
Hi Badgeholder, you can. Due to this being a solid-state Class A-B Mono Bridge Amplifier, adding headphones is just a matter of adding a headphone jack. No additional resistors or anything like that to add a load. A warning though, it will be loud, so you will most likely want to turn the volume down. If using stereo head phones, you will need to wire both left and right channels to the output+ and ground to the output-
@@erikvincent5846 So, you basically just hook the headphones to the speaker outputs directly? That doesn't sound difficult. :)
@@erikvincent5846 I didn't think it was that simple Eric(?) - if you just do as you describe you'd likely blow your nice expensive cans!
One should really have a dedicated phone-out stage in the circuit.
Something like this www.electronics-diy.com/4x4.php
@@wodenoftheangles3339 it would work, just make sure you have the volume way down. Typically additional circuitry for head phones out is just to give it a unity with the cabinet. Where at about noon on the volume, it is pretty loud on the cabinet, but tolerable, that same noon would blow out your ear drums. But at a 1, it would work on the headphones alrighty, but be quiet on a cabinet. So that extra circuitry just would make noon not as loud on the headphones, but be normal on the cabinet. Basically a buffer and an attenuator.
Instead of TDA7266M, can I use TDA7294?
They are not pin compatible, so that wouldn't work without a lot of PCB "butchery"
Hi! When this is cranked, does the sound get slightly distorted? Im looking for a loud, as clean as possible amp. What voltage/speaker combinations would help with using this? Thanks!
The more volts, the more headroom, which would result in less likelihood of clipping and distorting. So 16 to 18V power supplies will give you that. Speakers, I could go all day on. I got a Harley Benton 2x12 with Celestion Vintage 30s from Thomann and it rocks. Just get a good cabinet, and that will be it.
As Erik said, to get the most clean headroom you want to run the power supply at the highest voltage that the power amp IC is rated for. In this case that appears to be 18 vdc. Alternately you could search for a replacement IC rated for higher voltage and then beef up the power supply. But the higher the power the greater the cost (and the more the need for a heat sink/cooling system.) Realistically speaking, these are solid state watts, so even going to 24+ vdc is not going to get you a whole lot of added volume.
Hi Paul & Erik, I just finished building this and cannot get any output using my guitar which is equipped with active EMG pickups. If I use a guitar with passive pickups I get sound, although it is very low output. The EMG guitar works with my other amps.
Do you know what might be the cause of this?
Edit: I’ve been going over the build to check everything is wired correctly, and when using the multimeter in continuity mode, the input jack tip is registering as being connected to ground (this is obviously the issue), but I have no solder bridges, and everything is wired correctly.
Not sure where to go from here.
If you are certain there are no solder bridges nor and bad wiring, you may have a bad component. I'd check the following
1. The volume pot. The volume pot connects the input tip to pin 1 of the pot, while pin 3 of the pot is ground. If internally, that is broke, it may shunt to ground
2. The D1 diode is on upside-down or is on right-side-up, but is dead (internally shunted). When diodes "die" half the time, they blow apart, but the other half of the time, they fuse together and become a near 0 ohm resistor, which in turn shunts to ground.
3. C2, C3, and or C4 are damaged internally. I see this more with box film caps more than any other. Basically, the internals are touching leads, which turns the capacitor into a resistor. If a capacitor not in any board shows a low value of resistance between its two leads with a multimeter, that capacitor is probably not good and will ultimately shunt something (in this case, to ground)
Thanks for the response Erik, I’ve been messing around with it, and it works fine now, also added a +9v to +18v charge pump to get the max wattage. Running through a 50 watt 12 inch Jensen Falcon with a DIY Friedman Buxom Boost in front of the amp is INSANELY loud 😃👍. Still can’t get it to work with active pickups though.
Quels sont les dimensions du boitier.merci
112 mm x 60 mm x 27 mm
If you wanted to put this in an amp with a speaker, how does the "needing a metal case" affect it? How would you compensate for that?
Amps have a metal chassis. It shields the electronics from electromagnetic interference.
hi can you buy any random pcb to build a pedal
I mean, any of our PCB's will make a pedal, but what specific pedal are you trying to make?
@@erikvincent5846 delay
@@ADTGuitars we have the Boy In Well PCB for making a delay pedal.
it's sold out. mind sharing the schematic?
&parts list
nevermind. it's there :)
@@marcokalach More coming end of this week early next week, thanks for your support!
@@DiyguitarpedalsAu gracias!
What kind of bit is that in your drill press?
Pyramid bit
Step bit :D
That prismatic reverb, is that one of your kits?
Another great kit 👍. I would like to build it and make a few changes. How would I make it stereo? I want to run 2 4x12 cabs. Do I need to increase the wattage? Please let me know I definitely want to build this ASAP. Thanks
You could use two TDA7266M ICs but you would probably want to buffer (copy) the input and feed the original signal to one TDA7266M (left) and the copy to the other TDA7266M (right). I would look into using something like the TDA2009A instead, which was designed for stereo (input and output).
Pretty much what Haze said. You could run a pair of mono outputs instead of a single, and it will work, but it will cut down on the sound quality and volume.
That prismatic tone 🤤
So does this cover both the pre and power amp stages? So could it be wired directly to a speaker? I’m thinking it would be great for a micro amp for testing pedals.
It essentially is just a power amp by itself. Hence the recommendations of using a boost to be that preamp.
Why not using a PAM8403 ? It costs around 1$
That was an option we looked at. However, to make this work, we also know that the DIY community typically favors through-hole design over surface mount. The PAM8403 from Diodes Inc only comes in SOIC/SOP-16. I've heard that at one time it had a DIP-16 version, but that version is out-of-print. www.digikey.com/products/en/integrated-circuits-ics/linear-amplifiers-audio/742?k=PAM8403
I’m new to guitars. Can someone explain what this does? Like can I connect this amp to any speaker I have lying around and play my guitar through there? Can I use old PC speakers?
Usually, yes. However, you may want to check out the speaker impedances before trying. If not rated well enough, it could blow the speaker at high volumes.
@@erikvincent5846
Correction. The risk is actually to overheat the amplifier portion of the circuit. It’s ALWAYS safe to use speakers of a HIGHER impedance than the output recommended for the amp. It sounds counterintuitive but that’s how it works.
Hi Paul, can a TDA7266 be used instead of a TDA7266M?
The non M version is stereo and will required some hook ups that are not available on this board to force it to work in mono. So, you will need the M version.
thanks for the response Erik, now I have to figure out what to do with a spare TDA7266 😄
Aside from volume, how would you say the sound of this compares to the chime amp or the ruby?
Probably grainier, slightly dirty and bassier. If you add an EQ to the front of it though (or even just a dirt pedal with tone control) the tone becomes more versatile.
Is it possible to add the classic boost circuit before the amp circuit to form some kind of preamp? Have them both connected to a single 9V psu? Thank you
EQ's must the BEST boost pedals!
How much is the PCB, in US dollars?
As of right this minute, the exchange rate is 1 AUD to 0.64 USD. So, $3.83, US.
how do these work for acoustic? (piezo) I am experimenting with a setup inside a guitar case I am building, two of these for stereo, and will test some simple car speakers to get full tone range for classical or western. Sound too crazy?
What's the current draw at 9v, and is it 7W at 4 ohms, if yes, how many watts at 8 and 16?
Correct me if I am wrong, since this is a Solid State and not a tube amp, the output should stay somewhat consistent with different speaker resistance. Regardless, I'd be very happy if I got 5 W out of this into my 8/16 (it's selectable) 4x12 speaker array. It will be more than adequate for home practice and possibly OK for small gig venues. Please chime in your thoughts, thanks!
@@XwpisONOMA it will stay "relatively" the same, but it will change a measurable amount with different speakers
Bass Version?
I believe I put it in the build doc, but really the only values that are needed to be manipulated for bass is changing C1 from 10nF up to something like 100nF or more. However, if trying to drive woofer speakers, then increasing C3 from 220uF up to 470uF may also be desired.
See the video after this, I play a bass into the amp.
How would this work with an acoustic guitar?
Would it be possible to fit this into an altoids can?
Very cool! Is this a 7W RMS amp?
Power draw at 18V RMS is 50mA, close to the maximum 70mA. At 18V, it generates maximum 0.9 watts.
What if i want to do this without pcb? Just wire straight up? Someone help
Super very good idea 💡 thanks very much 👍
When will you be getting more in stock
"Sold out" each time I try to buy.
Does the IC heat sink need paste?
I’ve got a couple of questions before I purchase, hopefully they haven’t been asked/answered already!
Does this kit maintain a clean tone at all volumes or does it break up quickly? I’m wanting to use it with a modelling pedal so the cleaner the tone the better.
Also, based on the voltage/wattage chart in the manual, if I was to run this with an 18v power supply it should get the unit up to around 15 watts of power. Does that sound right?
Thank you!
It's a rather good "clean" amp, which is nice when you want your pedals to do the distortion and dirt. It does break up a bit once you max out the head-room, whatever voltage that is provided.
@@erikvincent5846 thank you!
hi, any value on the caps will do? like 16v or 35v?
Just make sure that they are greater than the voltages you intend to power it with. 25V or higher should be more than enough.
What thickness of solder wire do you use? I have a spool of 1 mm which works great for guitar components but I'm struggling with it on a pcb. Yours looks much thinner. Thanks!
Typically, I am using AWG 24 - 26. A cheap way to get a lot of wire is to get some cheap or used network/phone cable. It's solid core and is usually AWG 26.
Hey, love your videos! I have been watching them for a long time. Something I have always wanted to learn is how to make a guitar amp for headphones. Could you build that?
Technically, you could do that with this. Just make sure you don't turn the volume knob up too much.
@@erikvincent5846 I know, but there is still the risk of burning out my headphones and causing some damage to myself
@@rockstarcovers7267 So, after some experimentation, here is what I determined. The TDA7266 has some level of load protection, so technically, you can just straight wire a stereo jack to the output and get head phones to work. However, the level of volume is still pretty loud, and if cranked, it will blow the 32 ohm load, that is your headphones, especially if you put high gain pedals in front of the amp. To resolve, I am updating the build doc now, but it shows how to add a 47 to 100 ohm resistor in series with the out+ wire, which will go straight to the headphone jacks stereo left/right. I just tried that with my cheap ear buds and placed a Univox Super Fuzz cranked on it. Headphones survived, but that was a bit loud for my ears to handle for any level of time. Hope that helps.
@@erikvincent5846 thanks! I really appreciate your help! I'm still a novice in this, but I'll try to build the mini amp.
Have you ever tried to run it at 19V?
Only temporarily. The TDA7266M has for a maximum voltage rating of 18V on its datasheet. Now in a lot of cases these companies, when writing the datasheet, are aware that some of their chips may perform at a slightly higher rate on some of these specs, but not all of them will. So, they will guarantee the lowest value that will work on ALL the chips manufactured, which would be 18V. Some chips may work at 19V. Some may work at 19V for about a week and then die. As that spec is above the manufacturers recommendations, we cannot guarantee what it will do.
Hello, do you nave the kit with boost and EQ/tone? Do you ship to Brazil?
What Ohm speaker matches with it?
Hi Ray, it was designed around the intent of an 8 ohm rig (I use my 2x12 Celestion Vintage 30's cabinet with it). However, the IC supports 4 - 16 ohms as well. If you go 4, it won't push as much for amps, but will still sound good, and 16, it will push, but the IC will get hotter than it would at 8, so heat-sinking it into the enclosure would be key.
is there any way to make this 16 ohms?
It can drive a 16 ohm load.
I am curious.. size ..wattage . And Ohms of Speaker You used in test play?
I subscribed... Great channel
Thanks mate. The amp is going through my bad cat hot cat 30r speaker. Its a 'custom" celestion.
Will it break up at higher volumes?
It will, but you will need a boost to do it
what can you use instead of the bored thats in this
You can build it on a strip board called veroboard, this is a board that comes in different sizes that you can snap of on the lines of perforations to required size. They come plain or with copper tracks on the bottom under side. You place the components from the top and once solderd in you make breakes for unwanted connections between components in the copper track with a 5mm drill bit.
circuits ?
Components?
Is that the a hollen mode FU
I love that riff....and the amp is cool too!
headphone version?.... 15 watt version (micro terror has the same format output amp format)??...
Hi Kazz, due to this being a solid-state Class A-B Mono Bridge Amplifier, adding headphones is just a matter of adding a headphone jack. No additional resistors or anything like that to add a load. A warning though, it will be loud, so you will most likely want to turn the volume down. If using stereo head phones, you will need to wire both left and right channels to the output+ and ground to the output-
So, after some experimentation, here is what I determined. The TDA7266 has some level of load protection, so technically, you can just straight wire a stereo jack to the output and get head phones to work. However, the level of volume is still pretty loud, and if cranked, it will blow the 32 ohm load, that is your headphones, especially if you put high gain pedals in front of the amp. To resolve, I am updating the build doc now, but it shows how to add a 47 to 100 ohm resistor in series with the out+ wire, which will go straight to the headphone jacks stereo left/right. I just tried that with my cheap ear buds and placed a Univox Super Fuzz cranked on it. Headphones survived, but that was a bit loud for my ears to handle for any level of time. Hope that helps.
Idk bro, it sounds more like a cab sim to me, doesn't an amp ( preamp ) have more presence and more 'alive' sounding?
If you just want the pcb which chip do you need buy?
Hi Steve, its the TDA7266M. Check the build doc for the parts needed. We have this chip, but currently are out of stock. Cheers
great stuff mate. keep it up! :)))
Is this just a poweramp?
I guess I will order two complete kits tonight. I hope you ship to USA.
26.00 in your funky groovy money sounds cool. Unless that equals $100 US.
Nah, Australia's dollar is $0.64 USD. So $26.00 AUD is $16.51 USD, at least as of today's exchange rate.
Did you need to use an amp to use the amp? Lol that's what it looks like to me, how does it connect to a speaker?
I believe Paul is using the line out on the 10 Minute Amp to drive the cabinet that it is sitting on in the video. The amplifier that is with that cabinet (his combo amp) is not turned on. But basically, the line-out on the 10 minute amplifier is where your speaker or cabinet would plug in.
Unless he was plugged directly into the speaker which he wasn't, he was plugged into the amp, for the speaker connected to the amp to work, so he is going to have we believe that a 9 volt battery is going to be able to turn on speakers? I mean my grandpa's new turn table can't handle anything bigger then 4ohm speakers, and that uses power from the wall
So I'm pretty sure if you have to plug into the amp you are plugged into an amp? I mean then all pedals would allow you to do this?
But if you think a 9v battery can power a loud speaker hahahaha!
What's the point of amplifiers if his pedal and an equalizer pedal would do the same? If it connects to speakers and is designed to be used without amps why is it plugged into an amp and not just connected to speakers? I mean its not really amazing to plug a pedal into an amp and then call the pedal an amp lol! I mean he still needed an amp to use it hahaha.
@@erikvincent5846 and line out is line out he would need the amp turned on to use the line-in/aux ,and the amp would need to be turned on and plugged in to use either the input or the aux.
The only way to do it without powering the amp is to be connected directly to the speakers, and giving both the speakers and the signal power.
If this works without power then I should be able to take the signal from my headphones and connect that to a speaker, I should be able to here a tiny noise, or it should be as loud as headphones, I'd even say it could be quieter, but no it doesn't work.
@@evanfehr3819 if you were to take a pedal, such as an EQ, Pre-amp or any other, and plug it straight into a cabinet, it won't do anything. You do need an amplifier for that. I have my 10 Minute Amp with it's output cable plugged into my 2x12 cabinet of Celestion Vintage 30s and with the volume at max, and with the voltage for the 10 Minute Amp all the way down at 4V, it still is kind of loud. However, the current draw is reflective of that. One difference with the output of a pedal and the output of a power amplifier is the two wires on the output jack. On a pedal, typically, it's signal and ground. On an amplifier it's signal+ and signal-, not ground. Another difference, as indicated earlier, is the current. Cabinets go into the realm of 100mA and above, while pedal's (not how much current is uses to derive a signal, but how much it pushes out) is tiny. A pedal cannot deliver the power to drive the speakers, whereas a power amplifier can.
On Paul's Combo, he can disconnect the amplifier built into the combo, and just use the speaker/cabinet. That's what he is doing in the video.
Hi Evan. No this is not correct you can not connect this amp to the input of an amp, it needs to connect to the speaker directly. I've connected my to the bad cats speaker in this video
Hello Erik & Paul, In response to your question, I have mentioned DIYGP to Jason and can only assume he has checked you out, he is a busy guy. I will see if it would be ok to give out his email address. I am a long time sub and will get back to you. All the best, C.
i might as well just buy a amp because all of the tools i’d have to pay for witch will come up to about the same price as the amp i want it’s just i’m a beginner and i need one asap lol
Really? I’m a beginner at DIY amps but not guitars. I picked up a solder iron for 6$ and then I have a cheap drill hanging around that was less than 20$... what amp are you looking at that’s 30$???
@@zachary963 i got one for 45 dollars
Ic tpe ???
?
Doe's it work with semi acoustic guitar without any pedals
Something like a semi-hollow body (ES-335, ES-355, etc) or a straight acoustic-electric, should work fine.
One great trick is using a mu-amp before the TDA. Like Jack Orman's minibooster. The sound is awesome just like a tweed amp. For more info dm me on insta @tencatecustom.
I can send you a schematic.
That does give it an oomph. I was using my Orman's MOSFET Booster behind it for a similar effect.
Very cool, sounding like dinosaur jr over there!! 😊
Would this be a good beginner project?
Yeah, I would say its a good beginner project. Under a dozen parts.
Hi... and the schem and pcb??? Link???
check the description! but I got ya ;) www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/boms/10%20Min%20Amp.pdf
Sign Him!!!
daddy needed a manicure
Sold out😢😢