Thank you for your help, learning how to use my buddy heater is a learning curve. Living in my RV full time in the winter in Michigan, it’s worth learning the ins and outs of how to service my heater, the line, and understanding how the tanks work. It’s frustrating when you’re cold and having to trouble shoot but rewarding when i finally figure it out. I didn’t know I was supposed to empty out the hose and just turned off my heater but not even my tank. Thanks for the knowledge
Fantastic! Simple explanation and solution to a problem that has plagued me since I began using gas grills and propane. tanks. Short, easy to understand, and apply. If only all DIY UA-cam videos were like this. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your video!! I just discovered oil in my propane line to my Mr. buddy. purely by accident. I normally turn the propane off and then burn off what’s in the line. But I didn’t didn’t have to use the heater because of weather change, so didn’t clear the line out. When I moved the heater to which the hose was now disconnected from the propane light tank, oil started dripping on the floor and I did not know why. Your video showed me! Thank you very very much!
Wish I had service up in the mountains so I could’ve watched this video. Had to go buy a 1lb tank for $10 cause my hose was clogged up and didn’t know what the problem was. Gonna try to fix it tomorrow. Thanks.
AT LAST I found out why my Portable Buddy heater doesn't always work when I attached it to a 15# external tank (I was losing my mind as to what the problem was). I had tried using a Q-tip with the swab removed to clean out the gas inlet to the pilot, and using canned air with the tube attached to blow it out. Sometimes those "fixes" would make it for a short time but the pilot would always go out after only a few minutes and I was forced to switch to a 30# tank to make it operate. I still don't understand why putting the hose on a 30# tank made the pilot stay lit, but it worked fine that way (just a hassle to lug around the big tank when I wanted to change the location of the heater in my shop). I've always just turned off the heater when I was done using it but it seems the best "preventative measure" to ensure oil doesn't clog the line is to turn off the tank knob while the heater is still running so no gas is left in the hose. I did as you instructed and voila, the heater works like new! This tip works so well it should be included as part of the Operating Instructions included in the heater's box (but then the company wouldn't sell as many bc a lot of people would discard the one they have and just buy a new one; those sly devils LOL). THANKS A LOT for wising me up as to this simple solution. I have a feeling the heater will work great for years to come!
Honesty is the best policy (referring to my fumble-fingeredness). If I had really attempted to do a highly-produced video I could have cut it and reshot everything that wasn't high quality, but then, that wouldn't have been me, so I just did it in a single shot and posted it with all the foibles. Thanks for watching anyway, people don't know this kind of stuff so I'm glad to pass on the knowledge.
@@bobhealey1365I did your trouble shooting steps and it didn't work for me.. nothing comes out of my house when I depress the valve once hooked up to tank. . What do I do now?
I could not figure out why my dual-fuel generator kept cutting out on propane this fall, but wouldn't on gas. And it had worked in the past. Turned out I had put on a gauge to keep tabs of how much propane it had left, and it was this gauge's safety turning off. I took off the gauge and it runs fine. Thank God! I love using a gauge like this on my grill so I know when to change out the tank. A generator uses more propane than a grill does, must be so much that the gauge's safety thinks it's an open line.
Thank you for this video! It answered my question whether or not the hose had a check valve, which I suspected. The problem with my grill is that It works some times, with the 15 lbs propane tank and the hose, and when not I have to use the 16oz cylinder and then It works ok and could not figure out why. Now all these BBQ have 2 check valves, one in the hose and one in the propane tank, plus the gas regulator.
I'm subscribing to your channel buddy cuz you just got me out of a pinch I'm heating my trailer that I just bought with a buddy heater and I thought that the heater had malfunctioned and was going to go buy another one and I thought to myself I better watch some videos on the hose and Lord behold by the grace of Jesus he led me to your video and I was able to get heat going in my home
George, the main reason you will not find quick disconnect connectors for pressurized distribution of flammable gas is the liability associated with seal failure. Quick disconnects notoriously leak because of the tight tolerances and cleanliness required in the connection, to prevent pressure-induced seal bypass (leaks). By way of example, go into any shop with pressurized air tools and you will hear leaks throughout the facility at all the quick connections, with no real concern about it. In a flammable gas environment, the same situation would create a very dangerous explosive environment. As for the relationship of Quick Change Connector specs (QCC), BTUs, and their relationship to pressure being a confusing topic, believe me, I hear you. The whole issue is hard to teach in a private one-on-one setting, let alone a written reply. The problem is that torch manufacturers refer to BTUs (which is a meanless measurement with regards to torches) because it is a well-known (poorly understood) referential measurement. It is like Peak Power in audio, versus RMS power. Peak Power is always used in advertising because of its enormous referential significance, but it is a poor method of comparing the actual power of an audio system. BTUs are a measurement of gas flow per hour, of hydrocarbons, but the end result of what happens in a furnace regulated down to a very low pressure, .5 to 2 psi is night and day different from the force and utility of a high-temperature torch. In a torch like the Su-VGun, the performance of the torch is all about the nozzle pressure, expansion chamber, oxygen fuel mixture percentage, rate of mixture, and thoroughness of fuel burn. All this is to say that no one cares about that when making their selection for purchase, they only know how it feels to use the touch, the results in their application, and the authenticity of the influencer they choose to listen to (marketing). If as manufacturers, we have any integrity at all, we try to give our customers a mathematically justifiable, and measurably accurate, reference number in our specifications so that the consumer can make a selection with confidence. Since I care about integrity in advertising (and all of the knockoff manufacturers of our our torches clearly outright do not, since they just make things up in their advertising) it would be of little utility or benefit to make a video on the topic, except for the few people out there (like you) that even see the apparent incongruity that you are currently wrestling with. A UA-cam video on the topic would need to be like a 15-minute lecture with an audience and people asking myriad questions to do the topic justice, and sadly I don't have the production time to create it. I'm sure from this long-winded, stream-of-consciousness reply that I get off on this kind of topic (that's the engineer in me, screaming to get out). Now for the short answer: Your eyes don't deceive you so you shouldn't think you are missing something, the reality is that the performance spec of the torch is made with reference to a 1lb bottle which doesn't have a QCC valve, as though it could actually burn for an hour in this manner, which it can't because of the pressure drop in propane as it cools. So the only way to approximate BTUs in performance is from a bulk supply through a hose, which has its limitations due to the QCC/POL connector design, orifice, and check valve. But that doesn't really mean anything, because that has no bearing on the performance of the torch in its application. The even shorter answer: The QCC valve isn't considered in the spec of the torch, but isn't even of importance with respect to everything that I wrote above. Bob
Thank you for video, couldn't fire up my 1200W propane generator from my 2 -100 lb tanks with 40 foot hose. I had checked the valves before and pushed down with a jewelers screwdriver, guess not enough force , used a slender phillips head and pushed several times and the last time did the gas roar out!!! Generator fired right up and ran whole house including 4 ton AC unit, of course turned off pool pump and hot tub. Now I wont be stuck if Ian the Second comes around switching out 20 lb tanks.
I have a two burner camp stove that I've had for years. One year during my last camping for the season it almost didn't light. I stored it over the winter. The next summer I went on my first camping trip and the stove would NOT light. I figured it was the hose but I have not been able to find any way to clean it out and it's not at all replaceable because the company doesn't seem to exist. I've held onto the stove with the hopes that I can still get it working. I'll try your tip to see if it will do any good.
Is this the same principle with the mr buddy heater? I have a new one and the canisters worked fine but it was getting expensive. So i bought a 20 lb propane tank and an adapter but the pilot goes out when i move it off of light.. as soon as i try low or high, it dies out. I put a canister back in and it worked again.
It sounds like you are setting the check valve in the hose. Turn off the valve on the tank and then turn it back on VERY SLOWLY. If you turn it on too fast you will hear a clicking sound as it sets the check valve in the hose which will prevent gas flow from the tank. When you do it right you will not hear a click in the tank adapter and the hose will fill up properly (stiffen up) so that it can supply your heater.
Thank you, Bob. Quick question: I have to keep my propane tank connected to my RV tankless water heater all the time -- what can I do to prevent this sort of problem with the hose?
You just need a two-way splitter coming out of your tank and put a shutoff valve on the line going to the torch, which you can shut off and purge the line without depressurizing the line going to your hot-water heater.
Very informative man thank! So do youneed to do that on a Blackstone griddle also? I never have cleared that line And leave it hooked up. Should I be unhooking and depressirizing that also? Thanks for the video!
Not so much. The Blackstone sits behind a regulator, so the pressure in the hose between the regular and the input to the grill doesn't change, so there is very little reason for the suspended gas to re-liquify in the hose. Furthermore, any liquid that might condense out of suspension into the hose, would simply sit in the hose and not be blown into the stove at high pressure.
I have an 8 foot hose connected to a GasStop on my propane tank and it has a gauge meter on it. When I put the gas on and let the hose pressurize and then I turn the tank off. If I leave it over night the gauge reads a lower pressure. Is this normal because the gas liquefies or is it possible that I have a leak? I tested the line with a leak detector but it did not register any leaks. Thank you for this great video
Pressure and temperature are directly proportional. As the temperature increases the pressure increases proportionally. Since you tested the line with a leak detector, it is unlikely that you have a leak anywhere, it is more likely that the temperature has changed and the pressure changes accordingly.
@@bobhealey1365 Thanks for the reply. Why is it so hard to find Quick connect high pressure attachments for the Su V gun. I don't like twisting threads every time because I don't want to accidentally damage the threads. I use a 1 lb propane tank instead of a hose because of that reason. they have quick connect attachments for low pressure but it seems high pressure is something not commonly used by the RV people so end users suffer. Even if you find quick connect for high pressure they are only rated at 50k BTU Also why is there no red cylinder QCC1 in the hose you are using which is more for torches and very high BTU. Black QCC1 cylinders are rated for 90k BTU doesn't a torch like the SU-V gun use higher BTU then that? I am having a hard time understanding how the BTU work with pressure and torches. . Maybe you can put out a video that explains high pressure and low pressure along with BTU and throughput of pressure. As is it now, anyone with a torch or those Chinese burners including craw fish burners are in the dark with the information available on UA-cam thanks for this great video
I have a Big Buddy propane heater. So does a friend of mine. I have a hose that includes a regulator and a quick connect designed to clip on and off a special port on the heater. I presume it's down stream from the internal regulator. My friend has a hose like you demonstrated. His heater clogged up and now we know why. My question is: will this issue happen if the hose has a regulator at the tank end? I say it won't because the only pressure in the hose itself is 11 inches water column as it is regulated pressure. Can you confirm that for me, or let me know otherwise if this oil problem can occur with a hose that is only pressurized up to the regulator setting. Cheers!
I had my my buddy heater do the same thing. It wouldn't work or light. I took a q-tip and stuck it down the burner tub. It was soaked in the oil. Kept doing that until it came out dry. It fired up after that flickered a bit but haven't had a issue since. Hope that helps you
@@ticktock2320 The filter only fits on a high pressure hose. If you have a regulator at the tank, it fits via the quick release fitting at the low pressure side of the heater.
No, the problem is caused by temperature changes as the gasified propane condenses back into a liquid form and is trapped in the hose (pipe) because of gravity. The only solution is to depressurize the hose, after use. Even so, the temperature shift will condense any residual propane gas left in the hose, but the condensate from this small amount of propane gas is usually so small that it is unlikely to foul the input check valve as it atomizes and blows through the gun in subsequent uses.
@@bobhealey1365the connector to tank has a clog.. as in you connect hose and press the valve at the other end to bleed,, but it doesn't bleed . Nothing comes out. . So therefore the clog must be at the connector connecting at the tank
If the hose has a clog or is otherwise just faulty, then you simply need a new hose. There is no fixing the hose. But having said that, I have seen more faulty tank valves than clogged hoses. The best way to confirm the hose is bad is to use it on a different tank and see if the problem still exists.
The hose can be bad but it is very rare. If it doesn't work the problem most of the time is in the actual tank valve or connection to it. Feel free to call GrillBlazer support to talk through troubleshooting or replacement options. 918-969-9690
The hose also has a check valve. Your description indicates that you are setting the check valve by turning on the fuel valve on the tank too fast, which in turn checks the flow of fuel. Turn on the valve VERY slowly and the hose will pressurize (without checking), then you can open the valve all the way up and clean it as I do in the video with full pressure. The length of the hose doesn't matter (3', 8', 10', 12', 45' steel... it doesn't matter what length it is, length doesn't affect the pressure, just the amount of oil or liquid propane that can pool in the hose. The longer the hose (pipe), the more liquid you will get in it over time, and ambient temperature changes. The best way to ameliorate the problem of collecting fluids inside the hose is to depressurize it after every use. I designed the 8' hose to give you maximum usable length and usability, while still minimizing the pooling of liquids (suspended oil and liquid propane).
I hook up my two burner cook stove to a 20 # propane tank and it works fine. I hook it up again with an identical hose and I get nothing. What is wrong with the hose ? Can it be fixed ?
The two burner hose typically has a regulator on it. If it does, it will not have the pressure to run the gun. The gun runs on unregulated propane. Are you using our hose?
I don't understand your question. Your hose isn't shooting out anything? This video is on how to clear a fouled hose. There is a check valve in the hose that if it is set, will stop the flow of gas. You may need to contact support to talk with someone who can lead you through the diagnosis and get you up and running. support@grillblazer.com or 918-960-9690, next Monday
New regulator? www.amazon.com/2106-Propane-Regulator-Universal-Replacement/dp/B078K8DSXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=303088N51VVCN&keywords=grill%2Bhose%2Bregulator&qid=1655811230&sprefix=grill%2Bhose%2Bregulator%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-3&th=1
I tried and almost succeeded in holding in the valve at one end of the hose, and blowing composed air into the other end... but it sounded like something got stuck. I hadn't used the hose in years, but I'll make sure to clear the new one before storing it! Haha
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for your help, learning how to use my buddy heater is a learning curve. Living in my RV full time in the winter in Michigan, it’s worth learning the ins and outs of how to service my heater, the line, and understanding how the tanks work. It’s frustrating when you’re cold and having to trouble shoot but rewarding when i finally figure it out. I didn’t know I was supposed to empty out the hose and just turned off my heater but not even my tank. Thanks for the knowledge
Thank you. I almost spent money to buy another hose. After watching your video and followed the steps, my hose is back to work again.
I've had dealings with this equipment for decades and never knew what you showed here. Thank you...
Fantastic! Simple explanation and solution to a problem that has plagued me since I began using gas grills and propane. tanks. Short, easy to understand, and apply. If only all DIY UA-cam videos were like this. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your video!! I just discovered oil in my propane line to my Mr. buddy. purely by accident. I normally turn the propane off and then burn off what’s in the line. But I didn’t didn’t have to use the heater because of weather change, so didn’t clear the line out. When I moved the heater to which the hose was now disconnected from the propane light tank, oil started dripping on the floor and I did not know why. Your video showed me! Thank you very very much!
Wish I had service up in the mountains so I could’ve watched this video. Had to go buy a 1lb tank for $10 cause my hose was clogged up and didn’t know what the problem was. Gonna try to fix it tomorrow. Thanks.
Thank you!! I thought I was going to have to buy a new hose. Worked perfectly.
AT LAST I found out why my Portable Buddy heater doesn't always work when I attached it to a 15# external tank (I was losing my mind as to what the problem was). I had tried using a Q-tip with the swab removed to clean out the gas inlet to the pilot, and using canned air with the tube attached to blow it out. Sometimes those "fixes" would make it for a short time but the pilot would always go out after only a few minutes and I was forced to switch to a 30# tank to make it operate. I still don't understand why putting the hose on a 30# tank made the pilot stay lit, but it worked fine that way (just a hassle to lug around the big tank when I wanted to change the location of the heater in my shop).
I've always just turned off the heater when I was done using it but it seems the best "preventative measure" to ensure oil doesn't clog the line is to turn off the tank knob while the heater is still running so no gas is left in the hose. I did as you instructed and voila, the heater works like new! This tip works so well it should be included as part of the Operating Instructions included in the heater's box (but then the company wouldn't sell as many bc a lot of people would discard the one they have and just buy a new one; those sly devils LOL). THANKS A LOT for wising me up as to this simple solution. I have a feeling the heater will work great for years to come!
Honesty is the best policy (referring to my fumble-fingeredness). If I had really attempted to do a highly-produced video I could have cut it and reshot everything that wasn't high quality, but then, that wouldn't have been me, so I just did it in a single shot and posted it with all the foibles. Thanks for watching anyway, people don't know this kind of stuff so I'm glad to pass on the knowledge.
@@bobhealey1365I did your trouble shooting steps and it didn't work for me.. nothing comes out of my house when I depress the valve once hooked up to tank. .
What do I do now?
I could not figure out why my dual-fuel generator kept cutting out on propane this fall, but wouldn't on gas. And it had worked in the past. Turned out I had put on a gauge to keep tabs of how much propane it had left, and it was this gauge's safety turning off. I took off the gauge and it runs fine. Thank God!
I love using a gauge like this on my grill so I know when to change out the tank. A generator uses more propane than a grill does, must be so much that the gauge's safety thinks it's an open line.
Thank you for this video! It answered my question whether or not the hose had a check valve, which I suspected. The problem with my grill is that It works some times, with the 15 lbs propane tank and the hose, and when not I have to use the 16oz cylinder and then It works ok and could not figure out why. Now all these BBQ have 2 check valves, one in the hose and one in the propane tank, plus the gas regulator.
Thanks. A lot. I had issues with clogged hoses and a check valve that was tripping. Now I have heaters again!
Excellent! Now you should check out our GrillGuns at GrillBlazer.com!
Short, to the point, and very educational! You covered the issue well.
I'm subscribing to your channel buddy cuz you just got me out of a pinch I'm heating my trailer that I just bought with a buddy heater and I thought that the heater had malfunctioned and was going to go buy another one and I thought to myself I better watch some videos on the hose and Lord behold by the grace of Jesus he led me to your video and I was able to get heat going in my home
The Lord works in mysterious ways. Thanks for giving it a view.
Super helpful thanks. I had no idea there was a check valve in the hose and thought it was faulty. 😮
Thank you. You have helped me fix my problem.
Thank you I had that problem now I know what to do. Thank you.
George, the main reason you will not find quick disconnect connectors for pressurized distribution of flammable gas is the liability associated with seal failure. Quick disconnects notoriously leak because of the tight tolerances and cleanliness required in the connection, to prevent pressure-induced seal bypass (leaks). By way of example, go into any shop with pressurized air tools and you will hear leaks throughout the facility at all the quick connections, with no real concern about it. In a flammable gas environment, the same situation would create a very dangerous explosive environment.
As for the relationship of Quick Change Connector specs (QCC), BTUs, and their relationship to pressure being a confusing topic, believe me, I hear you. The whole issue is hard to teach in a private one-on-one setting, let alone a written reply. The problem is that torch manufacturers refer to BTUs (which is a meanless measurement with regards to torches) because it is a well-known (poorly understood) referential measurement. It is like Peak Power in audio, versus RMS power. Peak Power is always used in advertising because of its enormous referential significance, but it is a poor method of comparing the actual power of an audio system.
BTUs are a measurement of gas flow per hour, of hydrocarbons, but the end result of what happens in a furnace regulated down to a very low pressure, .5 to 2 psi is night and day different from the force and utility of a high-temperature torch. In a torch like the Su-VGun, the performance of the torch is all about the nozzle pressure, expansion chamber, oxygen fuel mixture percentage, rate of mixture, and thoroughness of fuel burn. All this is to say that no one cares about that when making their selection for purchase, they only know how it feels to use the touch, the results in their application, and the authenticity of the influencer they choose to listen to (marketing).
If as manufacturers, we have any integrity at all, we try to give our customers a mathematically justifiable, and measurably accurate, reference number in our specifications so that the consumer can make a selection with confidence. Since I care about integrity in advertising (and all of the knockoff manufacturers of our our torches clearly outright do not, since they just make things up in their advertising) it would be of little utility or benefit to make a video on the topic, except for the few people out there (like you) that even see the apparent incongruity that you are currently wrestling with.
A UA-cam video on the topic would need to be like a 15-minute lecture with an audience and people asking myriad questions to do the topic justice, and sadly I don't have the production time to create it. I'm sure from this long-winded, stream-of-consciousness reply that I get off on this kind of topic (that's the engineer in me, screaming to get out).
Now for the short answer: Your eyes don't deceive you so you shouldn't think you are missing something, the reality is that the performance spec of the torch is made with reference to a 1lb bottle which doesn't have a QCC valve, as though it could actually burn for an hour in this manner, which it can't because of the pressure drop in propane as it cools. So the only way to approximate BTUs in performance is from a bulk supply through a hose, which has its limitations due to the QCC/POL connector design, orifice, and check valve. But that doesn't really mean anything, because that has no bearing on the performance of the torch in its application.
The even shorter answer: The QCC valve isn't considered in the spec of the torch, but isn't even of importance with respect to everything that I wrote above.
Bob
Thank you for video, couldn't fire up my 1200W propane generator from my 2 -100 lb tanks with 40 foot hose. I had checked the valves before and pushed down with a jewelers screwdriver, guess not enough force , used a slender phillips head and pushed several times and the last time did the gas roar out!!! Generator fired right up and ran whole house including 4 ton AC unit, of course turned off pool pump and hot tub. Now I wont be stuck if Ian the Second comes around switching out 20 lb tanks.
Oh thank you...I now know what my problem was. Fantastic video.
So turn off tank and run buddy till it stops to clear the line like clearing a carburetor?
Yes
I have a two burner camp stove that I've had for years. One year during my last camping for the season it almost didn't light. I stored it over the winter. The next summer I went on my first camping trip and the stove would NOT light. I figured it was the hose but I have not been able to find any way to clean it out and it's not at all replaceable because the company doesn't seem to exist. I've held onto the stove with the hopes that I can still get it working. I'll try your tip to see if it will do any good.
Thank you a great fix for me. Just what I needed.
My pleasure
Nice job god bless
Is this the same principle with the mr buddy heater? I have a new one and the canisters worked fine but it was getting expensive. So i bought a 20 lb propane tank and an adapter but the pilot goes out when i move it off of light.. as soon as i try low or high, it dies out. I put a canister back in and it worked again.
It sounds like you are setting the check valve in the hose. Turn off the valve on the tank and then turn it back on VERY SLOWLY. If you turn it on too fast you will hear a clicking sound as it sets the check valve in the hose which will prevent gas flow from the tank. When you do it right you will not hear a click in the tank adapter and the hose will fill up properly (stiffen up) so that it can supply your heater.
Thank you, Bob. Quick question: I have to keep my propane tank connected to my RV tankless water heater all the time -- what can I do to prevent this sort of problem with the hose?
You just need a two-way splitter coming out of your tank and put a shutoff valve on the line going to the torch, which you can shut off and purge the line without depressurizing the line going to your hot-water heater.
Very informative man thank! So do youneed to do that on a Blackstone griddle also? I never have cleared that line And leave it hooked up. Should I be unhooking and depressirizing that also? Thanks for the video!
Not so much. The Blackstone sits behind a regulator, so the pressure in the hose between the regular and the input to the grill doesn't change, so there is very little reason for the suspended gas to re-liquify in the hose. Furthermore, any liquid that might condense out of suspension into the hose, would simply sit in the hose and not be blown into the stove at high pressure.
I have an 8 foot hose connected to a GasStop on my propane tank and it has a gauge meter on it. When I put the gas on and let the hose pressurize and then I turn the tank off. If I leave it over night the gauge reads a lower pressure. Is this normal because the gas liquefies or is it possible that I have a leak? I tested the line with a leak detector but it did not register any leaks.
Thank you for this great video
Pressure and temperature are directly proportional. As the temperature increases the pressure increases proportionally. Since you tested the line with a leak detector, it is unlikely that you have a leak anywhere, it is more likely that the temperature has changed and the pressure changes accordingly.
@@bobhealey1365 Thanks for the reply. Why is it so hard to find Quick connect high pressure attachments for the Su V gun. I don't like twisting threads every time because I don't want to accidentally damage the threads. I use a 1 lb propane tank instead of a hose because of that reason. they have quick connect attachments for low pressure but it seems high pressure is something not commonly used by the RV people so end users suffer. Even if you find quick connect for high pressure they are only rated at 50k BTU
Also why is there no red cylinder QCC1 in the hose you are using which is more for torches and very high BTU.
Black QCC1 cylinders are rated for 90k BTU doesn't a torch like the SU-V gun use higher BTU then that?
I am having a hard time understanding how the BTU work with pressure and torches. . Maybe you can put out a video that explains high pressure and low pressure along with BTU and throughput of pressure. As is it now, anyone with a torch or those Chinese burners including craw fish burners are in the dark with the information available on UA-cam
thanks for this great video
Thank you sir.
Most welcome
Thank you so much for this video! I know now what the issue was to mr buddy Heater. Is working perfectly now!
thanks dude-
Glad to help!
Life saver
I have a Big Buddy propane heater. So does a friend of mine. I have a hose that includes a regulator and a quick connect designed to clip on and off a special port on the heater. I presume it's down stream from the internal regulator. My friend has a hose like you demonstrated. His heater clogged up and now we know why. My question is: will this issue happen if the hose has a regulator at the tank end? I say it won't because the only pressure in the hose itself is 11 inches water column as it is regulated pressure. Can you confirm that for me, or let me know otherwise if this oil problem can occur with a hose that is only pressurized up to the regulator setting.
Cheers!
I had my my buddy heater do the same thing. It wouldn't work or light. I took a q-tip and stuck it down the burner tub. It was soaked in the oil. Kept doing that until it came out dry. It fired up after that flickered a bit but haven't had a issue since. Hope that helps you
They also sell a filter to put on at the heater that's supposed to catch any of it
@@ticktock2320 The filter only fits on a high pressure hose. If you have a regulator at the tank, it fits via the quick release fitting at the low pressure side of the heater.
My filter goes on right at the heater and the hose connects to it
Does using a metal hose make a difference compared to the rubber hose? Thank You
No, the problem is caused by temperature changes as the gasified propane condenses back into a liquid form and is trapped in the hose (pipe) because of gravity. The only solution is to depressurize the hose, after use. Even so, the temperature shift will condense any residual propane gas left in the hose, but the condensate from this small amount of propane gas is usually so small that it is unlikely to foul the input check valve as it atomizes and blows through the gun in subsequent uses.
Whats the name of taking the gun check valve apart? I cant find it.
I think you are asking about the "How to service the Check-Valve video". Here is the direct link: ua-cam.com/video/xzz_MJuXUIc/v-deo.html
@@bobhealey1365 exactly, thank you
What is a grill gun?? What's it for??
Go to GrillBlazer.com and check them out.
“It’s cold cause…that’s the way it is.” 😂😂😂
LP gas is under pressure; when it’s released it expands and cools as it does so.
Thank you, sir 🫡
This is a great video!
Any idea what to do if the blockage or problem is at the other end of the hose (at the connection)?
I can't help you with just the information you provided (it's also 2 months since you asked me, so I'm sorry I didn't see it until now.)
@@bobhealey1365maybe he is referring to the same problem I seem to be experiencing,,,
@@bobhealey1365the connector to tank has a clog.. as in you connect hose and press the valve at the other end to bleed,, but it doesn't bleed . Nothing comes out. . So therefore the clog must be at the connector connecting at the tank
@@bobhealey1365?
If the hose has a clog or is otherwise just faulty, then you simply need a new hose. There is no fixing the hose. But having said that, I have seen more faulty tank valves than clogged hoses. The best way to confirm the hose is bad is to use it on a different tank and see if the problem still exists.
I wonder how many people set themselves on fire because they used to large a tool to clear the hose and tore up the teflon o-ring?
I tried this but my hose just will not work
The hose can be bad but it is very rare. If it doesn't work the problem most of the time is in the actual tank valve or connection to it. Feel free to call GrillBlazer support to talk through troubleshooting or replacement options. 918-969-9690
I need to know what to do because when I light my barbecue I see like Blurry gas in the back of it
Call 918-960-9690 to talk to our support team. They will be able to talk to you and maybe help you figure this out.
This is not working Bob. Any idea why? If it only bleeds off a bit then stops. Then slowly bleeds off. Nowhere near the pressure you're showing.
The hose also has a check valve. Your description indicates that you are setting the check valve by turning on the fuel valve on the tank too fast, which in turn checks the flow of fuel. Turn on the valve VERY slowly and the hose will pressurize (without checking), then you can open the valve all the way up and clean it as I do in the video with full pressure. The length of the hose doesn't matter (3', 8', 10', 12', 45' steel... it doesn't matter what length it is, length doesn't affect the pressure, just the amount of oil or liquid propane that can pool in the hose. The longer the hose (pipe), the more liquid you will get in it over time, and ambient temperature changes. The best way to ameliorate the problem of collecting fluids inside the hose is to depressurize it after every use. I designed the 8' hose to give you maximum usable length and usability, while still minimizing the pooling of liquids (suspended oil and liquid propane).
Bought a new tank thinking it was empty. Attached hose and drained gas from hose first. Still has very low pressure.
Please call 9189699690 for support
I hook up my two burner cook stove to a 20 # propane tank and it works fine. I hook it up again with an identical hose and I get nothing. What is wrong with the hose ? Can it be fixed ?
The two burner hose typically has a regulator on it. If it does, it will not have the pressure to run the gun. The gun runs on unregulated propane. Are you using our hose?
Mine ain’t shooting out anything how to release
I don't understand your question. Your hose isn't shooting out anything? This video is on how to clear a fouled hose. There is a check valve in the hose that if it is set, will stop the flow of gas. You may need to contact support to talk with someone who can lead you through the diagnosis and get you up and running. support@grillblazer.com or 918-960-9690, next Monday
How to clear without the gun
I can’t get anything coming out of my hose at all is their anything on the other end of the hose I can do to get it to work?
New regulator? www.amazon.com/2106-Propane-Regulator-Universal-Replacement/dp/B078K8DSXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=303088N51VVCN&keywords=grill%2Bhose%2Bregulator&qid=1655811230&sprefix=grill%2Bhose%2Bregulator%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-3&th=1
I'm in the same boat. Guess I'll go buy a new hose.
@@caseyhardison4320 yeah that’s what I ended up doing
I tried and almost succeeded in holding in the valve at one end of the hose, and blowing composed air into the other end... but it sounded like something got stuck. I hadn't used the hose in years, but I'll make sure to clear the new one before storing it! Haha
@@caseyhardison4320 everything I read said it is like any oily residue that comes off the hose if you don’t get it the 10 footer or bigger
Very nice explanation, will try to see if this fixes my tank to stove issue ❤