YA I'LL SAY, I live in PA. every damn thing is rusted tight from the road salt. I use grease on my through bolts or anti-seize or I would have to get the hot wrench out.
When you northern guys reinstall undercarriage bolts you should use silicone to encase the bolts. I know it’s wrong from a painters perspective, but if you plan on doing your own work it could save you hours in the long run!
Geo, I use Super Lube Heavy Duty synthetic grease with silicone (PTTE ). GREAT STUFF OR ANTI-SEIZE, IT DEPENDS ON THE APPLICATION. I tried all kinds of silicone spray but the grease works the best in the long term.
HI, probably one of the best camera placement and explained series of videos made by someone who really wants to teach and explain how to get things done. Thank you
Different solution: went through everything - track bar, stabilizer bar, tie rods, shocks, pit arm...and some certainly were worn and needed replacing. But, still had problem! Real issue on my 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo having the death wobble? The wrong size tires! So easy to check and just spaced on doing that first. Kept replacing all the aforementioned parts, kept going into the shop (noting they didn't find it either, 2 different shops). The tires were too small in diameter (but hard to tell just looking at them), they were also fairly narrow. Hope this helps someone. Problem was solved instantly and never had the death wobble since. Updated May 17th, 2020: 203,134 miles and running great!
I use the slightly larger Jeep wrangler tires cause I get them cheap off Wrangler owners who want to upgrade.. hopefully the same isn't true for larger tires?
@@valuemaverick452 Well, does your vehicle have the death wobble with those tires you put on? But my issue was only when the tires were too small...appears you are putting biggie tires on - can't see a problem with death wobble from those tires.
Add a heavy-duty or double steering stabilizer, works like a champ. It solved my problem with my fovorite Cooper 17" AT3's on 17" Rubicons on both my 2000 and 2001 WJ's.
I have a 99’ wj. I experienced the death wobble when all suspension components were good and it turned out to be the front CV driveshaft creating the problem. To insure that was the actual problem, I removed the front driveshaft completely from the vehicle and drove it for a couple hundred miles to find the death wobble was completely eliminated. I ordered a new CV joint for the driveshaft and and reinstalled it and the death wobble was completely eliminated. Was confusing at first, but then I realized that the vibration from the driveshaft can cause the front axle to move side to side and create a terrible death wobble. Be sure to check for slack in all components before assuming the track bar is the culprit. I noticed on mine that most major components had been replaced within a few years. Probably why I got my Jeep so cheap.
I'm glad you pointed that out, I took the rear drive line out and it didn't wobble but after a while (all the sudden it was hopping like a lowrider w/ hydraulics! so hopefully putting it back in will help!
Have a real bad death wobble on an 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This video was one of the best videos I've seen online really well done please keep making them like this they're informative but straight to the point you don't skip anything on the videos you show exactly what the problem is and how to take it out and replace it. You don't over talk which I found most of the videos to be as a lot of these guys just talk and talk and talk to where I can't even sit through the whole video so I really appreciate that
What a coincidence that I have death wobble and you all of a sudden make a death wobble video. I should just go straight to my track bar since I fixed ball joints and inner tie rods already. Thanks! Also you made this look so easy! I’m def doing this an maybe my outer tie rods
My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in to far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...
Man, death wobble is a fickle beast. Idk why they toed in on these so much from the factory. It eats up the front tires like crazy and pulls to the right slightly. When I bought my 04 used, I took it back to the dealer 3 times because it kept pulling to the right and they checked over everything and aligned it twice and on the third return they told me there was nothing wrong and It was just the grade of the road causing it to pull. After eating through the brand new front tires in like 2 years I did some research and the wear pattern suggested that the camber was not correct, but the camber and caster is not adjustable on the wj and is fixed in place so having toe in just keeps the front tires constantly pointed toward each other and one will roll straight and the other will drag at a slight angle fighting the other tire. So I then did what you did after buying 2 new front tires and aligned them myself with a tape measure in my driveway and only kept a hair of tow in to counter any slop in the bushings and it fixed the pull and the tires wore evenly and lasted me like 8 years and probably 60k miles. I'm just now though fighting the death wobble as the entire vehicle is still on factory steering and suspension parts at 198k mi. aside from shocks. I have come to the point now that tire pressure dictates my death wobble. I have to run them at like 20 psi to prevent it. I'm on the fence right now on whether it's worth the money and time to replace everything that's worn out, which is everything lol.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. I was able to repair and upgrade my WJ thanks to you. The videos are great with just the right amount of detail. I already replaced my sway bar, sway bar links, spark plugs, shocks, denso fuel injectors, all the fluids, radiator, and everything with suspension that you have. My mileage also improved from 15 to 20 mpg. I bought one that has been standing around for few years, so it needs everything :). Now it drives pretty nicely. Thank you. I could not have done this w/o your videos.
Good video, but as others have said, the easiest way to reinstall is to fit the frame-end (upper) bolt first, then get a helper to turn the steering wheel until the axle-end bolt holes line up.
Awesome video. Didn't realize how easy this repair was. Haven't attempted yet, but I just ordered the part. Fingers crossed. I'm hoping this will be the cure for my 04 grand cherokee death wobble.
with the wheels on the ground, have someone slightly move steering wheel left or right. this will float body left or right over axle, easily align bolt holes. if alone, slightly move steering wheel yourself. takes a bit longer but works every time.
I HAVE A BAD DEATH WOBBLE ON MY 2001 JGC, BUT i THINK THAT THANKS IT IS COMING FROM STEERING STABILIZER. i AM GOING TO0 CHECK THE TRAC BAR IF THAT DOESN'T STOP IT.
The steering stabilizer will never cause death wobble in fact you should be able to run without a steering stabilizer and not have death wobble if a steering stabilizer cures death wobble it is only a Band-Aid to the actual problem.
I just took my Cherokee to a shop and ended up w/ $2200 bill, they replaced the upper control arm in the rear and some bushings in the front. watching your video (Great tutorial) on replacing the track bar gave me wallet shock! if that was all it was ...grrr so thank you for your video! I know what's next lol
Hello Martin, Some time ago I had to replace all types of suspension control bushings and stabilizer bar with Polyurethane. And it was very good. Because it is very expensive to have to replace an entire system because of the rubber won by the time of use. And we here in Brazil have to import and the Dollar is around 6 x 1. We have to turn around in thirty seconds. LOL Hugs and thank you very much for your videos.
Hey Martin, love your videos, glad to see another dedicated WJ owner, really looking forwards in seeing some pulls out of your WJ after all the mods/upgrades youve done, some nice 0-60 or 60+ pulls should be very intresting after all the work you've put into it! Keep the videos comming been a long time viewer your rock!
@@frankdemarzo9943 There are many things that can cause death wobble. Tie-rod ends, control arm bushings, tires, and more. No, I didn't remove the lead weight. Make sure you have the bolts torqued properly and only do that with the suspension fully loaded.
I just bought a 1999WJ that is immaculate condition underneath and body, I have found 1 rust spot on the gas tank cover that's surface rust and an easy fix,the crank sensor needed replacement and it's not easy, I cut an access hole larger where you can get to it from inside and after many videos on different ways the larger access hole that the shift cable goes through, I had a defective sensor bought at the local auto parts store and exactly the reason for the larger access hole.
It's not necessary to get an entirely new track bar (hard to imagine something going wrong with the bar itself). I replaced the bushings, they cost $15 as opposed to north of $100 for a new track bar with bushings. The one headache you save yourself with a new track bar is not having to remove the old bushings, which took me about an hour of work with a drill, hammer and hack saw. The hardest work is taking out the old track bar (I had so much rust on my bolt and such difficult access it took me about 2 hrs to do just that), which you can do without having the car jacked up. When using the Moog bushings they're pretty fat, so it takes a bit of effort to get the track bar back in (positioning it was a pain). Anyway thanks for the well made video!
Yes working on vehicles that are from the Southwest like mine make the job easy. I have a Amazon link in the description where you get the track bar for no more than 80 and sometimes as little as $60 from Moog. Next time I do it if I ever have to I will do a video on replacing just the bushings. Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt I'm from the northeast. When I saw the underside of your 2004 I thought you did a total rebuild on the bottom but obviously not. Jealous :)
Skip the ratchet straps and get a helper turning the steering wheel in the needed direction. Much faster and easier. The job you showed is as easy as it could possibly be. The bump stop is in the way of the left bolt and those metal tabs don't hold up to a rusty bolt. Try it on a wj from the salt belt, you'll need a torch. Also, get a new bar from Chrysler, the after market stuff doesn't hold up. Also, tighten the bolts with the Jeep on the ground. Very important!
Great job but when you used the ratchet strap it looked it you've turned the wheel to the left just abit to aligned the bolt. Would this could've worked too.
To use the steering wheel to align the holes, the best approach is to install the frame (upper) end of the track bar first, and then put the front wheels on the ground and turn them to align the hole for the lower end.
I have a slight wobble at highway speeds. I suspected it was a tire balance issue. I didn’t know a WJ had this problem. I get to do some more wrenching. 😊
Every thing is good about your vidio accept you have to remove the frame to axel bump stop to get the left hand bolt out. I have replaced the bump stops many times until I paid for the chrystler factory ones, save yourself the teath chatering and use mopar bump stops.
Had the same on my lifted 04 Overland.. Put on an adjustable track bar, and dual steering stabilizer kit from Iron Rock Offroad... Seems to do good now. Had to go with the adjustable due to the lift. GREAT video as usual, Martin... THANKS
I get that death wobble out of the driver's side I wasn't sure I was thinking it was the hub bearing myself I hit a pothole on that side and it feels like the whole front end is just death wobble from hell .... I'll be replacing mine this weekend... Thanks for the short n sweet version....
Thank you so much I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo and I am experiencing the death wobble so that is the part that I need to fix the problem thank you so much
Would you mind steering me in the right direction? I took my tie rod bar off and placed it next to my new assembly to get the measurements as close as possible from center TRE to center TRE. I noticed that the old assembly has one tilted tie rod end. Do I match that tilt angle on the new tie rod end to get the same measurement? Thanks!
I am struggling with death wobble too, 03 overland with 5" lift, last weekend i inspected the lower control arms and they had some little play in them, i replace the bolt with a ticker one meanwhile i get new bushings and that helped a lot, also replaced the heim joint of the RC adjustable tracbar
Thanks for the video, I was having similar problems on my 00' WJ. Your videos really helped me for working on my Jeep. I would like to see some videos on axle parts suck as replacing axle shaft or CV joints, if possible. Thanks Martin.
Very good video thank you. I was wondering if you’d have some advice for my 2003 grand Cherokee Limited. I’m having an ongoing issue with when I make slow sharp turns into a parking spot or in a parking lot, my back differential grinds. Do you have any advice on this?
If you're sure it's coming from the rear axle I would try changing out the fluid. That particular posi rear end on those is sensitive to the fluid condition. The transfer case can also make a similar noise. Check this video out ua-cam.com/video/kwsp6CPc_6A/v-deo.html
Thank you Martin, I so much appreciate your youTube video and your link for the Moog track bar through Amazon. I just needed to use a 15" breaker bar to loosen the bolts. Death wobbles are gone with ease.
I might save some time, my death wobble was the cv shaft on the front drive shaft. Repezza, style drive shaft I think it's called. Replaced everything then saw that was bouncing around did the u joints as well.
Hi martin, any idea what the weird metal cylinder on all the replacement track bars are? I have an 04 and am looking on rockauto and they all seem to have this weird metal thing towards the passenger side bushing.
Hi. I had some play in mine. Had a friend turn the wheel left and right on the ground as I inspected it. It was moving. When i removed it, it looked fine but replaced it anyway since already had a new one. I also noticed my tie rod endings were loose by rotating the center bar by hand and the upper right (passenger) was thumping. I'm guessing they aren't soposed to be moving??
Good morning Martin, I have the same SUV. I get a wobble at 60mph. How do I check to see where it’s coming from without removing and installing parts and found it was the wrong part? Ty 12:22
hi, my wj when i'm on a straight road doesn't go straight and i always have to correct it with the steering wheel, what could be the problem in your opinion? thanks
Very nice Martinbuilt! As you say, DW can be caused by a multitude of issues but just to be sure, I used a JKS adjustable track bar with a Johnny Joint on the frame side and Urethane on the other.
My 2002 Wj Pulls to the right , it's had 2 alignments and still nothing, car only has 82,000 miles, what should I check first with out building the whole front end which is how I'm feeling. And the overall front end feels squirly at times. I watched your video and noticed yours pulling a little to the right also. Is that as good as it gets on these cars???
Great video. Question how did your bolt frame side just come out. I fought mine and ended up cutting the bump stop just enough to back it out to change the track bar.
@@ryanrockwell4032 I don't think I'm following you guys on this. Yes my Bump Stop has been cut but that was only due to the fact that I lowered the vehicle and the bump stops were getting quite often. Now the bump stops don't have anything to do with the track bar being removed.
If you don’t have the bump stop on the frame side cut it sticks down enough so that you can’t get that track bar bolt out without removing or cutting it.
Martin, need a life preserver!!! I’ve replaced both sway bar links and the track bar but still have a serious case of the “THE DEATH WOBBLES”. Can you tell me what to check next. I’m a disabled veteran and cash not enough to keep throwing money at it. JT
@@jtrok11 there are a lot of things that can cause death wobble I would suggest starting look at the rubbers on the shock absorbers. And how are the tires any signs of broken belts. Also check your tie rod ends on both the tie rod and the drag link.
@@martinbuilt . Hi. I had some play in mine. Had a friend turn the wheel left and right on the ground as I inspected it. It was moving. When i removed it, it looked fine but replaced it anyway since already had a new one. I also noticed my both sides upper and lower tie rod endings were loose by rotating the center bar by hand and the upper right (passenger) was thumping. I'm guessing they aren't soposed to be moving??
Great video! However, those track bar bolts seemed awfully loose when you removed them... According to Jeep specs, the track bar bolts should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs.
That's a good question I was wondering that myself. I don't know if it's some kind of vibration dampener of some sort. I may take it off. It looks like it's made of lead with a rubber insert and then held on by a hose clamp
@@martinbuilt Science triumphs again. Someone was thinking. Just got my first Jeep. 04 Cherokee Laredo, still tight as new. Doing 4 wheel brakes and headlights this weekend. Rewired all 4 doors and did the blower resistor last weekend. I'll be watching for the track bar issues, thanks!
You don’t want to torque those or any suspension bushing bolts until the vehicle is sitting on the ground and suspension is compressed to normal ride height. Otherwise when you lower the vehicle back down your creating tension in the bushing from the inner sleeve twisting its way back to normal ride height.
Hey martinbuilt I recently put a 2 inch Rc budget boost along with 255r65 17s on my 02 wj do I need to go with an adjustable track bar or will this moog work for me? Thanks for your time
My 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee only has death wobble from 50-60, my dad and grandpa told me to replace the rotors and it still didn’t work, can you please help me?
thought provoking vid. with plenty of comments as well that add to the topic. my '94 6/4.0 cherokee country shakes violently at about 45 on the same one section of highway 50. as though the asphalt holes/gaps condition were a big part of the set of causes that , all happening at once , result in this shaking. slowing down to the end of this stretch eliminates it. odd thing is this sort of asphalt deterioration is common o local roads. yet its just been this one spot that dependably repeats the shaking. of the 2 front tires the right one is worn the most and needs replaced. and its seemed to me that this dw is more of it shaking than anything else. it will be replaced w/ a new and balanced one. then learn if the dw is gone. and while down there at the front end will look close at the rubber bushings. one comment below, a long one, tells of measuring the toe-in w/ a tape measure. and adjusting it to < 1/8" from 3/8" . this is an idea to try too. a few things not seen done by martin are : 1. not brushing clean the bolt threads before wrenching them. this keeps road dust-crud from getting pulled into the bolt and taking up space there to add friction. and 2. not torque-ing the 2 bolts during re-assembly. can some one tell me why does one not just replace the rubber and that metal pipe thing at both ends of an old track bar instead of the whole bar too ?
Hi Martin.. I have a Trailmaster lift kit and my WJ tends to car wave from one side of the road to the other above 60mph. Can you give me a hint? I have done full optics and alignment so that is sorted...?
@@martinbuilt Could the control arms be a source of knocking or rattling when hitting bumps in the road? My steering components are all stock at 147,000 miles, so perhaps it's the track bar but I'm trying to rule out my control arms.
@@martinbuilt Just bought an 04 jeep grang cherokee. Feels like the vehicle after I hit a bump wants to sway right to left would this bar fix that? It has a 2" lift
Dude you're a life saver martin, Ive experience the same problem with my 99 wj limited 4×4. Love you videos man, btw how much total power increase have you achieved after all your performance upgrades?
You are welcome Paul. I couldn't give you any hard numbers as far as horsepower and torque increases cuz I've never had it dynoed. I most certainly can tell the difference. Stay tuned I will be installing the 08 camshafts the HO Springs and having it tuned as well.
Yeah I ordered the part from ORielly auto parts due to the urgency and installed. First road test felt like the tires were going to wobble off (I.e. “The Death Wobble “)
Alright, so I've replaced front ball jounts, all tie rod ends, wheel bearings and the sway bar links. Before this i had very minor death wobble(like what you had in the beginning of the video). Now I have severe death wobble. My track bar definitely moves when I turn the wheel back and forth. Going to replace that too. If that doesn't fix it, what are some other options?
thinking it would be a good bet, we bought '01 jeep grand Cherokee which was used as a tow vehicle. It check out with our mechanic as in good condition. Bought it, and tried to tow it home with our pickup, but the jeep wouldn't track, steering itself in another direction and pulled our truck around. We pulled off the hwy, checked everything, and THEN the tow bars musta finally locked in (???), and tracked home as it should have from the git go. Next day, tried it again, by set everything up in a straight line, then connect the jeep, thinking maybe it wasn't all in line at the car lot. NOPE it did the same thing. Does it need new tow bars, because they didn't lock?
Hi Laura, I'm sorry I can't help you with this very I'm unfamiliar with using tracking bars with a tow hitch. I want to thank you for watching the video.
I can't get over how clean your Jeep is.. no salt .. no rust! Looks like I'll be doing this to my WJ
Thanks Dan, I am definitely spoiled with my rust free Vehicles out here in southern Nevada. It definitely makes working on them so much easier.
Wow, the underside of that jeep is CLEAN. I know its a southwest car but man that thing looks like new
YA I'LL SAY, I live in PA. every damn thing is rusted tight from the road salt. I use grease on my through bolts or anti-seize or I would have to get the hot wrench out.
When you northern guys reinstall undercarriage bolts you should use silicone to encase the bolts. I know it’s wrong from a painters perspective, but if you plan on doing your own work it could save you hours in the long run!
Geo, I use Super Lube Heavy Duty synthetic grease with silicone (PTTE ). GREAT STUFF OR ANTI-SEIZE, IT DEPENDS ON THE APPLICATION. I tried all kinds of silicone spray but the grease works the best in the long term.
@@geostanley409 I can amen this all day, spray the underside of your vehicle with oil and go for some dirt driving to cover up all that shit LOL
i hear you, I'm from Iowa and I would never buy a rusty vehicle again. I spoiled out here in southern Nevada.
HI, probably one of the best camera placement and explained series of videos made by someone who really wants to teach and explain how to get things done. Thank you
Thank you, I really appreciate that, glad you liked it. ☺
Different solution: went through everything - track bar, stabilizer bar, tie rods, shocks, pit arm...and some certainly were worn and needed replacing. But, still had problem! Real issue on my 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo having the death wobble? The wrong size tires! So easy to check and just spaced on doing that first. Kept replacing all the aforementioned parts, kept going into the shop (noting they didn't find it either, 2 different shops). The tires were too small in diameter (but hard to tell just looking at them), they were also fairly narrow. Hope this helps someone. Problem was solved instantly and never had the death wobble since. Updated May 17th, 2020: 203,134 miles and running great!
I use the slightly larger Jeep wrangler tires cause I get them cheap off Wrangler owners who want to upgrade.. hopefully the same isn't true for larger tires?
@@valuemaverick452 Well, does your vehicle have the death wobble with those tires you put on? But my issue was only when the tires were too small...appears you are putting biggie tires on - can't see a problem with death wobble from those tires.
Hi Peter, what tires (size) were you running?
Add a heavy-duty or double steering stabilizer, works like a champ. It solved my problem with my fovorite Cooper 17" AT3's on 17" Rubicons on both my 2000 and 2001 WJ's.
Mine was a rear axle bearing driver side
turning the steering wheel left or right is the easiest way to get those bolts out and line up the track bar :)
I’ve broken the axle-side bolt both times I’ve changed a track bar on different WJs...got to love Michigan rust. Great video as usual Martin!
I have a 99’ wj. I experienced the death wobble when all suspension components were good and it turned out to be the front CV driveshaft creating the problem. To insure that was the actual problem, I removed the front driveshaft completely from the vehicle and drove it for a couple hundred miles to find the death wobble was completely eliminated. I ordered a new CV joint for the driveshaft and and reinstalled it and the death wobble was completely eliminated. Was confusing at first, but then I realized that the vibration from the driveshaft can cause the front axle to move side to side and create a terrible death wobble. Be sure to check for slack in all components before assuming the track bar is the culprit. I noticed on mine that most major components had been replaced within a few years. Probably why I got my Jeep so cheap.
I'm glad you pointed that out, I took the rear drive line out and it didn't wobble but after a while (all the sudden it was hopping like a lowrider w/ hydraulics! so hopefully putting it back in will help!
Have a real bad death wobble on an 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This video was one of the best videos I've seen online really well done please keep making them like this they're informative but straight to the point you don't skip anything on the videos you show exactly what the problem is and how to take it out and replace it. You don't over talk which I found most of the videos to be as a lot of these guys just talk and talk and talk to where I can't even sit through the whole video so I really appreciate that
Thank you, I really appreciate that i'm glad you liked it and found it helpful, thank you for watching.
What a coincidence that I have death wobble and you all of a sudden make a death wobble video. I should just go straight to my track bar since I fixed ball joints and inner tie rods already. Thanks! Also you made this look so easy! I’m def doing this an maybe my outer tie rods
man , i changed everything but not that track bar , i will buy one new tomorrow .if death wobble will gone , you are the best
My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in to far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...
5 stars for figuring this out ! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Question: Was any sort of lift installed or was it stock?
@@toploadtele It was a completely stock suspension. Thanks for the stars!
Man, death wobble is a fickle beast. Idk why they toed in on these so much from the factory. It eats up the front tires like crazy and pulls to the right slightly. When I bought my 04 used, I took it back to the dealer 3 times because it kept pulling to the right and they checked over everything and aligned it twice and on the third return they told me there was nothing wrong and It was just the grade of the road causing it to pull. After eating through the brand new front tires in like 2 years I did some research and the wear pattern suggested that the camber was not correct, but the camber and caster is not adjustable on the wj and is fixed in place so having toe in just keeps the front tires constantly pointed toward each other and one will roll straight and the other will drag at a slight angle fighting the other tire. So I then did what you did after buying 2 new front tires and aligned them myself with a tape measure in my driveway and only kept a hair of tow in to counter any slop in the bushings and it fixed the pull and the tires wore evenly and lasted me like 8 years and probably 60k miles. I'm just now though fighting the death wobble as the entire vehicle is still on factory steering and suspension parts at 198k mi. aside from shocks. I have come to the point now that tire pressure dictates my death wobble. I have to run them at like 20 psi to prevent it. I'm on the fence right now on whether it's worth the money and time to replace everything that's worn out, which is everything lol.
This is a learning process for me, as a new owner of a 2002. Thanks for your clear instruction. Much appreciated!! Ax
Thank you so much for all of your videos. I was able to repair and upgrade my WJ thanks to you. The videos are great with just the right amount of detail. I already replaced my sway bar, sway bar links, spark plugs, shocks, denso fuel injectors, all the fluids, radiator, and everything with suspension that you have. My mileage also improved from 15 to 20 mpg. I bought one that has been standing around for few years, so it needs everything :). Now it drives pretty nicely. Thank you. I could not have done this w/o your videos.
I have never seen such clean vehicles, except when new.
Good video, but as others have said, the easiest way to reinstall is to fit the frame-end (upper) bolt first, then get a helper to turn the steering wheel until the axle-end bolt holes line up.
Awesome video. Didn't realize how easy this repair was. Haven't attempted yet, but I just ordered the part. Fingers crossed. I'm hoping this will be the cure for my 04 grand cherokee death wobble.
Same here…
Could also be ball joints, tie rods, or even struts.
I changed mine and bought an extra one,expensive but worth it,And I put 33 inch by 12.5 eide by 17 and I don't have Any Death Wobble, Great video!
with the wheels on the ground, have someone slightly move steering wheel left or right. this will float body left or right over axle, easily align bolt holes. if alone, slightly move steering wheel yourself. takes a bit longer but works every time.
I HAVE A BAD DEATH WOBBLE ON MY 2001 JGC, BUT i THINK THAT THANKS IT IS COMING FROM STEERING STABILIZER. i AM GOING TO0 CHECK THE TRAC BAR IF THAT DOESN'T STOP IT.
The steering stabilizer will never cause death wobble in fact you should be able to run without a steering stabilizer and not have death wobble if a steering stabilizer cures death wobble it is only a Band-Aid to the actual problem.
Had mine brake as soon as i got off the highway....had very little control over steering,,,,,glad it decided to brake when I was going slow
That is very hard to handle and steer when that happens.
Hes talking about rust! Thays the cleanest WJ I've ever seen lol.
I believe he lives in Nevada. Oxidation don't happen much there.
Man I love your WJ 01-04 jeep specific vids! Really helped me out
THANK YOU ! I was going out of my mind trying to figure the cause, I was ready to give it up for Salvage.
Don't give up
I just took my Cherokee to a shop and ended up w/ $2200 bill, they replaced the upper control arm in the rear and some bushings in the front. watching your video (Great tutorial) on replacing the track bar gave me wallet shock! if that was all it was ...grrr so thank you for your video! I know what's next lol
I wouldn't have even charged half that.
Thank you for everything you do Martin. Jeep built by MoPar but maintained by Martin.
Martin. Do you have a part number on Amazon for the tie rods on the drag link? are they the same as the lower sleeve?
@@brentmoffatt9006 here is a complete set of 4. Inner Outer Tie Rod End Link Kit
amzn.to/2BfHhNb
The usefulness of ratchet straps cannot be underestimated
Hello Martin,
Some time ago I had to replace all types of suspension control bushings and stabilizer bar with Polyurethane.
And it was very good. Because it is very expensive to have to replace an entire system because of the rubber won by the time of use.
And we here in Brazil have to import and the Dollar is around 6 x 1. We have to turn around in thirty seconds. LOL
Hugs and thank you very much for your videos.
Thanks for sharing
Hey Martin, love your videos, glad to see another dedicated WJ owner, really looking forwards in seeing some pulls out of your WJ after all the mods/upgrades youve done, some nice 0-60 or 60+ pulls should be very intresting after all the work you've put into it! Keep the videos comming been a long time viewer your rock!
Thank you appreciate that. Yeah I was thinking about doing some 0 to 60 I can use my Superchips traildash 2 two monitor with.
@@martinbuilt hello i have a grand cheeokee v8 2002 i have a death wobble my shock its finis its my problem?
I just finished mine. I ordered from your link and it fit perfectly.
Good to hear thank you for supporting the channel I really appreciate that.
Hi. The wobble did not stop. Two questions. Did you remove the lead balancer off the bar?
Now I have a clunk when I turn left?
Any idea?
@@frankdemarzo9943 There are many things that can cause death wobble.
Tie-rod ends, control arm bushings, tires, and more.
No, I didn't remove the lead weight.
Make sure you have the bolts torqued properly and only do that with the suspension fully loaded.
@@martinbuilt ok I will try that first. I didn’t look up the torque spec. I’m going to give it a try in the morning. Thanks Martin
@@frankdemarzo9943
Torque spec for track bar bolts 85-foot pounds.
I just bought a 1999WJ that is immaculate condition underneath and body, I have found 1 rust spot on the gas tank cover that's surface rust and an easy fix,the crank sensor needed replacement and it's not easy, I cut an access hole larger where you can get to it from inside and after many videos on different ways the larger access hole that the shift cable goes through, I had a defective sensor bought at the local auto parts store and exactly the reason for the larger access hole.
Great video! Thank you! Definitely using this today to replace ours. Please share where you purchased that grille. It's a beauty
ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
Thank you I really do appreciate that. I fabricated the grille, here is a link to the vehicle.
It's not necessary to get an entirely new track bar (hard to imagine something going wrong with the bar itself). I replaced the bushings, they cost $15 as opposed to north of $100 for a new track bar with bushings. The one headache you save yourself with a new track bar is not having to remove the old bushings, which took me about an hour of work with a drill, hammer and hack saw. The hardest work is taking out the old track bar (I had so much rust on my bolt and such difficult access it took me about 2 hrs to do just that), which you can do without having the car jacked up. When using the Moog bushings they're pretty fat, so it takes a bit of effort to get the track bar back in (positioning it was a pain). Anyway thanks for the well made video!
Yes working on vehicles that are from the Southwest like mine make the job easy. I have a Amazon link in the description where you get the track bar for no more than 80 and sometimes as little as $60 from Moog. Next time I do it if I ever have to I will do a video on replacing just the bushings.
Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt I'm from the northeast. When I saw the underside of your 2004 I thought you did a total rebuild on the bottom but obviously not. Jealous :)
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this video!! The Rachet Strap worked perfectly and probably saved me a lot of time and frustration!!👍
Great to hear!😊
Thank you for taking the time to share such a very good and helpful video!
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
Skip the ratchet straps and get a helper turning the steering wheel in the needed direction. Much faster and easier.
The job you showed is as easy as it could possibly be.
The bump stop is in the way of the left bolt and those metal tabs don't hold up to a rusty bolt.
Try it on a wj from the salt belt, you'll need a torch.
Also, get a new bar from Chrysler, the after market stuff doesn't hold up.
Also, tighten the bolts with the Jeep on the ground. Very important!
Great job but when you used the ratchet strap it looked it you've turned the wheel to the left just abit to aligned the bolt.
Would this could've worked too.
To use the steering wheel to align the holes, the best approach is to install the frame (upper) end of the track bar first, and then put the front wheels on the ground and turn them to align the hole for the lower end.
Good job martin.
Thats problably next on my wj.
Same here Like this weekend
I have a slight wobble at highway speeds. I suspected it was a tire balance issue. I didn’t know a WJ had this problem. I get to do some more wrenching. 😊
Every thing is good about your vidio accept you have to remove the frame to axel bump stop to get the left hand bolt out. I have replaced the bump stops many times until I paid for the chrystler factory ones, save yourself the teath chatering and use mopar bump stops.
Had the same on my lifted 04 Overland.. Put on an adjustable track bar, and dual steering stabilizer kit from Iron Rock Offroad... Seems to do good now. Had to go with the adjustable due to the lift. GREAT video as usual, Martin... THANKS
Thank you Bryan, yeah with a lifted Jeep that's the best thing you can do is put an adjustable track bar in. I did the same with my XJ
Do you still have your lifted 04? Is it an overland?
I get that death wobble out of the driver's side I wasn't sure I was thinking it was the hub bearing myself I hit a pothole on that side and it feels like the whole front end is just death wobble from hell ....
I'll be replacing mine this weekend...
Thanks for the short n sweet version....
I love all your videos on jeep grand Cherokee
I appreciate that!
Thank you so much I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo and I am experiencing the death wobble so that is the part that I need to fix the problem thank you so much
You're welcome, it is just one of the causes, there are many other things that can cause death wobble.
Would you mind steering me in the right direction? I took my tie rod bar off and placed it next to my new assembly to get the measurements as close as possible from center TRE to center TRE. I noticed that the old assembly has one tilted tie rod end. Do I match that tilt angle on the new tie rod end to get the same measurement?
Thanks!
I am struggling with death wobble too, 03 overland with 5" lift, last weekend i inspected the lower control arms and they had some little play in them, i replace the bolt with a ticker one meanwhile i get new bushings and that helped a lot, also replaced the heim joint of the RC adjustable tracbar
love that grill,where you get it? I been looking for something like that
Thank you it is one that I built from the original 04 grill.
ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
check control arm bushings before anything, more common for them to be bad then anything
Been under my Jeep for 2 hours trying to figure out how to get passed the rubber bumper on the driverside that is blocking the bolt from sliding out
Yeah sorry about that I had shaved part of that block off when I lowered the Jeep one inch you need to pry that rubber block out to remove the bolt.
That's a beautiful machine you got their man very clean
Thank you, Dylan
Thanks for the video, I was having similar problems on my 00' WJ. Your videos really helped me for working on my Jeep. I would like to see some videos on axle parts suck as replacing axle shaft or CV joints, if possible. Thanks Martin.
Is your axle causing death wobble
Very good video thank you. I was wondering if you’d have some advice for my 2003 grand Cherokee Limited. I’m having an ongoing issue with when I make slow sharp turns into a parking spot or in a parking lot, my back differential grinds. Do you have any advice on this?
If you're sure it's coming from the rear axle I would try changing out the fluid. That particular posi rear end on those is sensitive to the fluid condition. The transfer case can also make a similar noise. Check this video out ua-cam.com/video/kwsp6CPc_6A/v-deo.html
Thank you Martin, I so much appreciate your youTube video and your link for the Moog track bar through Amazon. I just needed to use a 15" breaker bar to loosen the bolts. Death wobbles are gone with ease.
My pleasure, glad you found it helpful
I might save some time, my death wobble was the cv shaft on the front drive shaft. Repezza, style drive shaft I think it's called. Replaced everything then saw that was bouncing around did the u joints as well.
Your Jeep by the way is awesome.
Thank you I really appreciate that.😎
Hi martin, any idea what the weird metal cylinder on all the replacement track bars are? I have an 04 and am looking on rockauto and they all seem to have this weird metal thing towards the passenger side bushing.
excellent work Martin,i enjoy watching your videos a great deal..all the best to you.
Hi. I had some play in mine. Had a friend turn the wheel left and right on the ground as I inspected it. It was moving. When i removed it, it looked fine but replaced it anyway since already had a new one. I also noticed my tie rod endings were loose by rotating the center bar by hand and the upper right (passenger) was thumping. I'm guessing they aren't soposed to be moving??
Good morning Martin, I have the same SUV. I get a wobble at 60mph. How do I check to see where it’s coming from without removing and installing parts and found it was the wrong part?
Ty 12:22
hi, my wj when i'm on a straight road doesn't go straight and i always have to correct it with the steering wheel, what could be the problem in your opinion? thanks
Great video and listing the part number are good, the axle lining up is key in the swap thx
Very nice Martinbuilt! As you say, DW can be caused by a multitude of issues but just to be sure, I used a JKS adjustable track bar with a Johnny Joint on the frame side and Urethane on the other.
That is a great way to go specially if you ever plan on lifting the Jeep.
@@martinbuilt 1.5" OME spring lift. My apologies, urethane on both ends, I was thinking of my XJ build and thanks.
Nice and easy to reinstall, thanks for the great and easy to follow vid.
My 2002 Wj Pulls to the right , it's had 2 alignments and still nothing,
car only has 82,000 miles, what should I check first with out building
the whole front end which is how I'm feeling. And the overall front end
feels squirly at times. I watched your video and noticed yours pulling a little to the right also. Is that as good as it gets on these cars???
I was admiring the grill, was that custom or could they be purchased and where ..
Thank you, it is one that I custom built here is a link to the video.
ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
Hi there, how do you do fuel adjustments, richer or poorer...
any particular reason you choose to replace the trackbar rather than just the rubber bushings?
Replaced track bar and ball joints also got wheel alignment. What else can cause the damn wobble?
Great video. Question how did your bolt frame side just come out. I fought mine and ended up cutting the bump stop just enough to back it out to change the track bar.
I noticed the same thing haha. Looked like his bump stop was cut. I had to pull mine out with some pliers to remove the bolt.
@@ryanrockwell4032 I don't think I'm following you guys on this. Yes my Bump Stop has been cut but that was only due to the fact that I lowered the vehicle and the bump stops were getting quite often. Now the bump stops don't have anything to do with the track bar being removed.
If you don’t have the bump stop on the frame side cut it sticks down enough so that you can’t get that track bar bolt out without removing or cutting it.
@@ryanrockwell4032 okay now I'm I get what you guys are saying thanks. Yes I had cut my down because I lowered the Jeep
I've been fighting to get it cut lol such a small space to do it in
When you put your track link on is your jeep lifted ? Mine is and I need to replace the factory should I go with a adjustable?
my Jeep is actually lowered 1".
If you have more than a 1.5-inch lift, I would install longer or adjustable links.
Just bought one and the wobble freaked me. Thanks for the video easy fix. Saves lives.
Glad to hear you got it fixed and found this video helpful. 😊👍
I need guidelines on removing gearbox transmission jeep grand Cherokee lerato 2004. PLEASE
Martin, need a life preserver!!! I’ve replaced both sway bar links and the track bar but still have a serious case of the “THE DEATH WOBBLES”. Can you tell me what to check next. I’m a disabled veteran and cash not enough to keep throwing money at it. JT
Seems to be primarily from the left.
@@jtrok11 there are a lot of things that can cause death wobble I would suggest starting look at the rubbers on the shock absorbers. And how are the tires any signs of broken belts. Also check your tie rod ends on both the tie rod and the drag link.
Martin, thank you for the quick response. JT
@@jtrok11 Thank you for serving.
I get a shudder in the wheels when i hit bumps. Shocks are 5 year's old. Suggestions??
Check out the track bar bushings sounds like you're getting the early signs of death wobble.
@@martinbuilt. Hi. What is the tourqe lbs on the track bar bolts??
@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285
85 ft-lbs
@@martinbuilt . Hi. I had some play in mine. Had a friend turn the wheel left and right on the ground as I inspected it. It was moving. When i removed it, it looked fine but replaced it anyway since already had a new one. I also noticed my both sides upper and lower tie rod endings were loose by rotating the center bar by hand and the upper right (passenger) was thumping. I'm guessing they aren't soposed to be moving??
Great video! However, those track bar bolts seemed awfully loose when you removed them... According to Jeep specs, the track bar bolts should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs.
Nice job Martin.What is that collar for on the end of your new track bar?
That's a good question I was wondering that myself. I don't know if it's some kind of vibration dampener of some sort. I may take it off. It looks like it's made of lead with a rubber insert and then held on by a hose clamp
It’s definitely a vibration damper to help with the longevity of the bushings. I’d leave it there if it were me.
Geo, You are kind of correct Sir, It's a noise dampener to help keep vibrations down to limit noise from the road. DO NOT TAKE IT OFF, martinbuilt.
@@NoWr2Run thanks for commenting. I will leave it there.
@@martinbuilt Science triumphs again. Someone was thinking. Just got my first Jeep. 04 Cherokee Laredo, still tight as new. Doing 4 wheel brakes and headlights this weekend. Rewired all 4 doors and did the blower resistor last weekend. I'll be watching for the track bar issues, thanks!
You don’t want to torque those or any suspension bushing bolts until the vehicle is sitting on the ground and suspension is compressed to normal ride height. Otherwise when you lower the vehicle back down your creating tension in the bushing from the inner sleeve twisting its way back to normal ride height.
Spherical joints are different as they’re free to rotate.
Hey martinbuilt I recently put a 2 inch Rc budget boost along with 255r65 17s on my 02 wj do I need to go with an adjustable track bar or will this moog work for me? Thanks for your time
I would do some measuring and see if the tires are not centered over the body, if not buy an adjustable track bar.
My 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee only has death wobble from 50-60, my dad and grandpa told me to replace the rotors and it still didn’t work, can you please help me?
Thanks for the part#, martin!
Great video, but what if you don’t have straps?
You can also rotate the steering shaft left or right, and the axle will move so you can line up the bolt. Thank you for watching.
Martin ,Didn't see the site where u got the track bar from ?
Here you go. Thank you for watching.
amzn.to/4eebJVA
great jop sir ..
if you do not mind i was wondering about moose test for grand cherokee 1999_2004
whats your opinion is that safty car for family ?
huh...moose test. not with my Jeep...lol
@@martinbuilt do you have one ?
Can you do a video on steering? my wheel has to turn hard right to go straight.
Are you saying it's pulling hard to the left?
Hi, Please send your Amazon Link If possible
MOOG RK660669 Track Bar amzn.to/2Gobzhe
Good looking Grand !! Hey, do like a walk around on it. Super clean Grand Cherokee. Thanks
Will do, thank you
Hey there I can’t get the bolt out on driver side it hits the rubber bumper stop thing !! Wth
I've just had replaced the Panhard Rod on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Is the Panhard Rod another name for the Track Bar?
Yes,that is correct. Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt Thank you so much for answering. Although I'm no mechanic, I do enjoy watching your videos and your immaculately clean Jeep.
thought provoking vid. with plenty of comments as well that add to the topic.
my '94 6/4.0 cherokee country shakes violently at about 45 on the same one section of
highway 50. as though the asphalt holes/gaps condition were a big part of the set
of causes that , all happening at once , result in this shaking. slowing down
to the end of this stretch eliminates it. odd thing is this sort of asphalt
deterioration is common o
local roads. yet its just been this one spot
that dependably repeats the shaking.
of the 2 front tires the right one is worn the most and needs replaced.
and its seemed to me that this dw is more of it shaking than anything else.
it will be replaced w/ a new and balanced one. then learn if the dw is gone.
and while down there at the front end will look close at the rubber bushings.
one comment below, a long one, tells of measuring the toe-in w/ a tape
measure. and adjusting it to < 1/8" from 3/8" . this is an idea to try too.
a few things not seen done by martin are : 1. not brushing clean the bolt
threads before wrenching them. this keeps road dust-crud from getting
pulled into the bolt and taking up space there to add friction.
and 2. not torque-ing the 2 bolts during re-assembly.
can some one tell me why does one not just replace the rubber and that
metal pipe thing at both ends of an old track bar instead of the whole bar too ?
3/8 toe-in is to much and will cause tire wear. Go with 1/8 maximum or even Zero
Hi Martin.. I have a Trailmaster lift kit and my WJ tends to car wave from one side of the road to the other above 60mph. Can you give me a hint? I have done full optics and alignment so that is sorted...?
It still sounds like an alignment issue. It may be toed out to much.
@@martinbuilt thank you. Will re-check...
Thanks Martin! How do you know when you need to replace your control arms, and the bushings? Thanks!
For me I would do a visual inspection. If the bushings have severe cracks or the steel and rubber have separated I would change them out.
@@martinbuilt Could the control arms be a source of knocking or rattling when hitting bumps in the road? My steering components are all stock at 147,000 miles, so perhaps it's the track bar but I'm trying to rule out my control arms.
@@Trebelhornc check ball joints
Just found and subscribed to your channel your a great help really appreciate you making these videos 🙏
Thank you sir, this information help me a lot.. God bless you !!
You are very welcome!
@@martinbuilt Just bought an 04 jeep grang cherokee. Feels like the vehicle after I hit a bump wants to sway right to left would this bar fix that? It has a 2" lift
@@rlchick5774
that sound like bump steer, make sure the drag link and track bar are parallel to each other and the same length.
I need to know where that grill came from, it's minimalistic, yet suits the car perfect, imma need one for mine
Thank you, here is a video on it ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
Dude you're a life saver martin, Ive experience the same problem with my 99 wj limited 4×4. Love you videos man, btw how much total power increase have you achieved after all your performance upgrades?
You are welcome Paul. I couldn't give you any hard numbers as far as horsepower and torque increases cuz I've never had it dynoed. I most certainly can tell the difference. Stay tuned I will be installing the 08 camshafts the HO Springs and having it tuned as well.
@@martinbuilt nice man, hopefully you'll have some good gains from stock. Is this jeep your daily driver?
Get it dynoed before and after as we all want to know the numbers.
Don’t forget people that I’m pretty sure dyno tests cost money so telling him to do it before and after is trying to make him spend more money
Yes it is a daily driver
I replaced just bushings but still wobble bad, I replaced all tie rods last year, what else can be?
And had to build the lower spring mounts with iron Rock off-road parts
Yeah I ordered the part from ORielly auto parts due to the urgency and installed. First road test felt like the tires were going to wobble off (I.e. “The Death Wobble “)
Change the horizontal shock in front between the front wheels
Alright, so I've replaced front ball jounts, all tie rod ends, wheel bearings and the sway bar links. Before this i had very minor death wobble(like what you had in the beginning of the video). Now I have severe death wobble. My track bar definitely moves when I turn the wheel back and forth. Going to replace that too. If that doesn't fix it, what are some other options?
I would check the toe-in since you replaced the tie-rod ends and you said it got worse. set it at 1/16 toe in.
@@martinbuilt ok thanks. Ill have to look up how to set that.
thinking it would be a good bet, we bought '01 jeep grand Cherokee which was used as a tow vehicle. It check out with our mechanic as in good condition. Bought it, and tried to tow it home with our pickup, but the jeep wouldn't track, steering itself in another direction and pulled our truck around. We pulled off the hwy, checked everything, and THEN the tow bars musta finally locked in (???), and tracked home as it should have from the git go. Next day, tried it again, by set everything up in a straight line, then connect the jeep, thinking maybe it wasn't all in line at the car lot. NOPE it did the same thing. Does it need new tow bars, because they didn't lock?
Hi Laura, I'm sorry I can't help you with this very I'm unfamiliar with using tracking bars with a tow hitch. I want to thank you for watching the video.
Homeboy pulled up like a ghost