I know it’s a little more expensive and time intensive at the front end but having a rotation of several waxed chains has worked well for me for my commuter. Using standard strava data makes it easy enough to rotate based on mileage and general wear and when (not if) it rains, I have pre-waxed chains ready to slap on giving me plenty of time to re-wax the used one(s)
I’m of the same view. It’s less expensive than bike specific drip on lubes… more expensive than people who use 3-in-1 or motor oil. No real time difference either way… either re-waxing or constantly wiping down and relubing the chain. It ultimately comes down to operating conditions, not cost or time.
Waxed is where it is at. Never going back. So much cleaner and smoother. As far as time, think of the time spent cleaning up an oiled lube drive train! Major surgery.
Lol the tubeless guy gave me a laugh. There's even alot of bikes that come straight from manufacturers with tubeless wheels and tires but set up with tube's presumably for shelf life reasons
I still don’t know why riders (and pro teams!!) would put tubes in a tubeless tires. Even super light TPU tubes. Tubeless tires are heavier than clincher tires so if you gonna use tubes why using them with tubeless tires? The advantage of which being the sealant clogging small punctures and a lower inflation (more comfort, grip)
Bought a Trek Roscoe last year. Tubeless. Rode the piss out of it and this past winter went to suck the old sealant out and put new in. Nothing out of the rear and some clear fluid out of the front. After removing the rear there was no evidence of sealant at all. Must say those bontrager tires popped on tight to those bontrager rims. Lucky Duck.
@@Hydun i know the VITTORIA CORSA PRO are said to be both clincher & tubeless… still not as light as proper clincher tires tho… or is it just for manufacturing convenience ? Like no need to release 2 different versions and 1 tubeless version can accommodate tubes? But they’re heavier so tube users would be kinda fcked
Another option for commuting in wet conditions is simply to have multiple waxed chains. Just swap as necessary, and then re-wax them all at once when you need to. While it is a bit of a pain, it's still easier than cleaning a greasy, gritty, and wet mess all the time.
Stiffer shoes are amazing for sprinting, but for endurance and bikepacking rides, maybe we need to see longer cleats that was also recently demoed on GCN and some world travellers already the flat versions (e.g. Pedaling Innovations Catalyst pedals)
Hi tech wizards! Thanks for answering a couple of my recent questions. I've got a new one. Earlier today I was cleaning my drivetrain while transitioning another bike to wax. After degreasing my cassette I realized how greasy my brush had become. So I degreased that. Then I degreased my cassette removal tool, and that was pretty satisfying. I imagine you can anticipate where this might lead. Can you talk to us a bit about cleaning and maintaining our bike tools (or do an episode)? (i.e. what cleaners to use; what to watch for; torque wrench care and calibration; etc.) Thanks! #askGCNtech
Since everyone is just speculating - It’s either in the tube or outside the tube. It’s the same amount of air and it will compress the tube inwards if needed
dont forget that aero frame with shallow wheels will also cause LESS fatigue and easier to ride in cross winds than a climbing bike with deeper wheels.
Rain + wax: use drip on wax, like squirt, smoove, etc. Rainy day? In the evening add a light amount to refill the chain, and next day the bike is good to go. Same applies in case of hot melt waxing. In this case some alcoholic solution of the original wax could work as well (based on some youtube video, have not tried yet)
Thank you for setting us straight on the pedal platform issue. Maybe it made sense in the old days, but I never felt a difference between my Keos and my Egg Beaters.
I found the exact opposite. No foot problems with my Keo's. Recently switched to Candy Egg Beaters as a result sore feet and tenderness due to the small size of the cleat right under the ball of both feet. Now I have to consider going back to Keo's. Especially for long rides and multiple continuous days.
@@StephanieHughesDesign Hmmm, interesting. I wonder about your shoes. Here’s a thought experiment. Imagine that the sole of your shoe is a 2x4 board. Could you tell which pedal you’re standing on? If so, I wonder if it’s because of the location of the pivot point relative to your foot. Try moving your cleat as far back toward your arch as it will go. Also, check the side to side adjustment of the cleats. Note also that, with Eggbeaters, you can change the amount of float by turning them over. Single sided pedals are fine for racing or long rides with few stops. I switched to double sided pedals because they are easy to click into. I have XTRs on my tandem, Eggbeaters on my mountain bike, and Zeros on my road bike. For the Zeros, Speedplay sold an adapter that allowed placement of the cleat 15mm further back than what my shoes would have allowed, so the pivot point is closer to my arch, which I like.
If the sole of the shoe distributes the load then why are so many arguments made for road pedals with larger platforms delivering better power transfer when compared to mountain bike pedals. If the sole is rigid enough, which I think most cycling specific shoes are, I don't see why it should make much of a difference in terms of power transfer. I also don't think that most mountain bike or cyclocross racers would opt for such small pedals if it was truly leaving any performance on the table.
My question for GCN tech regarding saddle height, and in particular, Pogacar: Is Pogacar's saddle height lower than what is conventionally believed to be the right saddle height (e.g., 0.883 X inseam)?
#askgcntech I have a 2021 Alumuinim BMC Teammachine with the groupset of the people. It has a carbon d-shaped seat post. I have a medium bike bag attached to that seat post with levers, tubes and a mini pump, which I assume is negating the aero benefit. I could remove that bag and put all that in the second water bottle cage, what do yiu think is more aero?
Another answer for the guy asking about wax lube for commuters; You can step into it. Get an ultrasonic cleaner; you won't regret it even if you stick with wet lubes. Then try a drip on wax lube. If that's okay, you can move to a wax setup, with a cheap crockpot to melt.
In fact waxing is much cheaper than lubing with oils - as long as you go the sensible route and just melt regular paraffin wax instead of those overpriced solutions from Silca or others. You can also make your own solution using alcohol, for cold drip application.
I commute with Silca hot waxed chains. After rain swap chain to freshly waxed one, use microfibre cloth and Xpower air duster to quickly dry wet chain and leave it to cook in Silca wax melter, hang chain to dry at a convenient time. Would never use wet lube, the mess and damage it does to the drivetrain is not worth the hassle.
It seems to me that wax ought to be at least as resistant to "washing out" as oil based lubes. any information on that? Having two chains one on the bike and one ready to go should work no problem.
I've been using tubes for tubeless tires on my MTB for years cause I got tired of the process. Now I don't even know now where I placed those tubeless valves I removed. 😊
#askgcntech is the tubeless tire question maybe saying "don't use tubes in an all-the-way tubeless tire system?" Like with the sealant and the interior part of the valve and the tape and everything? Because that actually makes sense. Maybe he's putting sealant in his tube as well? Not sure about the cornering bit, tho
I clicked on this video because I couldn't imagine why anyone would be talking about seat post clamps on this channel, since discrete ones aren't used on any good quality modern bike that I know of (because they all have an integrated clamp of some sort), but as it turns out, you're just talking about seat clamps, AKA: "seat guts." A seat post clamp is a shaft collar with a pinch bolt that fits over the top of the frame's seat tube and keeps the seat post in place (you have to loosen it to adjust the height of your seat). BMXs were probably the last breed of bike to use them (not counting cheap department store bikes in general), but by about the early 2000s, most BMX frames had one that was integrated into the frame's seat tube.
In one month I am doing the Ironman in Copenhagen. I just bought new Continental GP5000 S TR (not installed yet) and I am doubting between which tubes. I prefer tubes over tubeless since I am familiar with them. On GCN's advice I started looking for latex inner tubes but I can't find any for my rim height (43mm). Should I go TPU (which have longer valves) or is the advantage of TPU and latex not that big over the "race" butyl tubes? Or should I buy a valve extender? In before Ollie says "just go tubeless"...
I live in Copenhagen and if the weather is rainy or damp, I’d suggest you to set it up tubeless, because we have quite a lot of pretty sharp, tiny flints here in the area around, and if using inner tubes we used to have punctures more often. It’s much worse in the forests than on the streets though
A comment from someone who spent an English winter commuting on waxed chains ... I'd never do it again. A constant battle against rust. There are things you can do to help but in the end it's a losing battle. Waxing in itself isn't as much hassle as it's perceived to be, it works well and is clean, but when it's constantly wet and salty it's just grief. The stuff you need to do to not wake up to an orange chain next day, isn't worth the grief. A good all weather wet lube (Weldtite is excellent and very reasonably priced) is the far better solution. so long as you don't overlube, regularly give it a quick wipe and when you relube always wipe, wipe, wipe, lube and wipe, it isn't that much dirtier, it works and ... no rust. Waxed chains are great but not for this.
#askgcntech I was intrigued by the Recon cassette Vivian was talking about in the tech show. Finally, gearing for those of us who aren't riding at 45kph all the time! I'm a little concerned because I have SRAM, and the Recon site says the Shimano/SRAM cassettes are identical, save the inclusion of the SRAM adapter with SRAM purchases. But what of the cog-to-cog spacing, and the fact that SRAM's chain rollers are larger diameter? Will using one of these lead to compromised shifting or quicker wear of either chain or cassette? Inquiring minds want to know!
@askgcntech hey Oli and Xavier, thanks for your informative weekly vids. Question; I’ve been using 42 cm handlebars for the last 10 years and am considering going down to 38 cm bars as the trend for aero is gaining popularity. Will going to narrower bars affect the geometry of the bike and possibly impact my back and shoulders? Cheers.
I have a lovely set of cranks on my bike but I think the thread screwing the left crank onto the right crank has worn down so the crank falls off every so often. I really like the cranks, so would prefer not to replace them, would a spot of glue on the thread be a good fix (as the thread doesn't go under much strain it just slowly unscrews with time) if I knew I could still break the glued thread if need be to remove the crank? Or do you have any other suggestions? Thanks#askgcntech
Question about chain lengths. I use the "+2 links" method for sizing a chain but I was cleaning my bike and noticed the chain looked a little short when on the largest chain ring and largest cog (despite being 2 links longer). Question: should I lengthen the chain or leave as is. Please note for reference I have 50/34 chainrings and a 11-30T cassette. I am running a 105 medium cage rear derailleur. #askgcntech
If the conventional clamp has its halves with contact points opposing each other (while some may have longer top with shorter bottom), should suffice on the carbon rail. Considering the rail is oval and not square.
#askgcntech I have front wheel wobble. My QR is greased and tightened correctly, there is no visible damage to wheel or fork, both wheels and bike are clean, but I still get slight lateral play. What do you think is causing this? I have a Canyon Ultimate in good condition with Winspace Hyper 38mm wheels which are less than a year old.
#askgcntech Aero question for Ollie. We know that round tubes are horrible aerodynamically but how close could a wheel set optimized to a round tubed frame get to an aero frame in watts? Could one extend the rule of 105 to match the trailing edge of the front wheel to the down tube and the leading edge of the rear wheel to the seat tube and make significant savings? Second question, I have small hands and never use the last 2 inches of my drops. Would cutting that last section off have a detrimental effect aerodynamically, by disrupting airflow?
#askgcntech not quite a tech clinic question, but I noticed tadej pogacar is wearing a wristwatch during the big French bike ride. Even during the TT wearing the skin suit. Is this just a sponsor thing, what is it (surely not just to tell when lunchtime is), and how big a wattage cost is it?
#askgcntech my speedplay pedals keep squeaking. After servicing the cleats and pedals, it goes away, but then comes back after about an hour of riding. Time to replace? Any tips?
can someone please explain to me what that tubeless + tube guy was trying to say? like i honestly dont understand the issue he was proposing. like if you puncture your inner tube, how is the air supposed the get caught? your tyre will have that same hole and theyre most likely even aligned pretty well????
there was one flat pedal around 150mm but it was super overpriced and hard to get, most are 115mm at max and i also dont know why, bigger platform = more comfort and you pedal with the center of your foot transfering more power
#askgcntech Kind folks. Having preventatively replaced the chain but kept the cassette - as per chain checker tool - on my silky smooth GRX810 (ca 3500km), the two smallest sprockets started skipping under load regardless of adjustment. Refitting the old chain got me back to silky smooth. Are these sprockets too mangled already? Do I replace chain and cassette together after all and when?
My Name is EDI so dont bother with the Nickname.... Wonder if I am right here, with my daft question: I have watched a lot of tubless related videos just about everywhere. One thing noone has taken into account seems to be how long these rimtapes last for. I have one of my N+1 bikes that has now done close to 7000km in two years on a tubeless setup. Within a few weeks the front and then rear tape (Schwalbe) have blown through a spokehole. It happened aways before a ride when topping up the pressure. I usually pump between 5,5 and 5,8 bar according to the tools on the known pages. The holes are nice and deburred. I didn´t really overstretch the tape when mounting. I think the maximum pressure I applied is about 7bar when mounting the tire. When changing the tire I use plastic levers and pay attention not to "dig" at the rim or tape. As usual the asker is answering his own question? I am running out of things I could have done wrong. All I can think of is the tape has a shelf life? Or, eventhough NOT stated explicitly as a requirement by Schwalbe, I DID NOT do two layers of tape all round... And YES I do wax my chain 😂😂 #ASKGCNTECH
#askgcntech Hey GCN tech. I find myself turning my wrists inward when riding on the hoods. Would a narrower handlebar be better or is it position/fitness that needs to get better? Thanks in advance.
I have a question to you, guys. My Left shifter R7000 sti is broken recently. I have a spare R3000 Sora and Claris Left Sti shifter. Is it ok to install pairing with R7000 FD? I appreciate your response. Thank you..
Direct Mount Rear Derailleur - is this there much to gain for replacing the stock rear derailleur mount with a 3d printed/after market option? #askgcntech
Thinking through that inner-tube & tubeless tire comment, I suppose the risk is non-zero. If you put a tube in AND have the valve hole of your rim somehow sealed up for some reason, then you could theoretically pinch flat and still have air pressure in the system waiting to be released. Not sure what happens after that which would be "dangerous" but just trying to brainstorm whatever the hell that guy is worried about...
#askgcntech: If I had a 25/28 front/rear width tyre or 28/30, etc, would having the tyres at the same pressure be optimal for aero, comfort and rolling resistance?
#askgcntech virtual racing question. When racing I always start hard and get in with the lead group most of the time. After spending months of going flat out and creating solo breakaways before burning out and being destroyed a few km from the end, I am finally enjoying that draft. My question. If I am stuck in no man's land (billy no-mates) with leaders a few hundred metres ahead, a chase group several hundred metres behind me. Do I keep powering along on my own or is it best to slow down and hope to get caught sooner . Thanks. Btw racing on Rouvy - for reference.
Pedals the size of feet wouldn't work, not because of stiff shoes transferring load - come on, this question could be asked at anytime in history. Feet don't remain flat for much of their circular journey, so to keep contact you would need to strap the whole of the pedal to the whole of your foot for absolutely no benefit whatsoever.
I mean yeah, there are a lot of stupid/wrong stuff on GCN, some (like TPU) could be potentially even dangerous…but TLR with tubes 😂😂 it makes even more sense, since the tires are thicker and more puncture resistent.
Ok, so I have converted to a wax head like I have been instructed to by GCN tech but have run into a problem. I ended up using drip on after each ride, thinking it would keep the chain in tip top order, but what it did was cake up on the pulley wheels like crazy! Like there was no more room between the pulley wheels and the cage. So take me through good rider hygiene. I come home and want to be a good little cyclist and maximise my waxed chain set up …… what next?
Yes albeit rather expensive. A lot of things need to be replaced, it’s cheaper to buy a new bike in the end. The end result will be a lighter and more aerodynamic bike.
#askgcntech I want to get a TT Bike but I want to stick to 2x. 2 questions: Is it possible to configure it such that I actually shift the front derailleur manually instead of using di2 synchro shift? Second: Is a 58/42 chainring combo fine, or is the gap too big? I have seen Campenaerts has such a setup but I don't have pro mechanics at my disposal on every race Thanks!
#askgcntech Hi guys, I was on a ride last weekend when it was raining and when I was crossing some railway tracks at an angle my front wheel slipped and got lodged between the track and the road interface. While I was washing my bike later I noticed the front wheel had a small chip on the edge of the aluminium braking surface. Is the wheel safe to ride or is the wheel a write off? Tks
Hello #askgcntech team, I have a problem with my Ultegra 6800 mechanical 11-speed cassette shifter. Sometimes when I shift to a lighter gear the larger lever does not return fully, leading to the smaller lever not engaging. During rides I would have to pull the larger lever back manually. A few turns tightening the cable corrects this but only temporarily. What is the proper fix? Do I need to upgrade to the new SRAM Red AXS group set?
Sounds like it is time for new cables (and probably new cable housing too). With use, the cable gradually wears, increasing friction in the system, and decreasing shift performance. New cables are way cheaper than a new groupset.
#askgcntech With the new Aeroad out I'm (please send help) thinking about buying one yet again. Large powerful riders would certainly benefit from their top tier carbon CFR, but what about a smaller and less powerful =( rider. It stands to reason that somebody who weights 60kg and makes 1000 watts in a sprint doesn't need nearly as stiff of a bike as somebody who weighs 80kg and makes 2000. Save some serious cash and go for the CF SLX? What are your thoughts?
#gcntech philparky55 Getting old, almost 62! Interested in Zone 2 training as a method of keeping fit without overtraining but I'm confused by the different systems you guys and girls use. So is it Zone 2 HR, Zone 2 HRR or Zone 2 power? Hope it's Zone 2 HRR - that's where I have been training!
#askgcntech - What bike pedal / cleat system would you say is the easiest to unclip from? Following achilies surgery as a kid I have reduced strength and movement in one ankle and don't want to waste money on a system that I would struggle to get out off 😂
There's no impact on the foot, in the same way when you run or lift or play basketball. The entire load is on the forefoot, so a full foot pedal is over engineered and weighs too much. I'm an idiot and even I know that.
I thought chains had to be exceptionally clean before waxing? How does that "commuter waxing" setup work, you can't just have people throwing dirty chains into a pot of clean wax?
Wow, the tubeless guy sure was triggered. I've been riding tubeless tires with tubes for tens of thousands of km, and never had the issue he mentioned. Every puncture, albeit rare, ended up with air escaping the system.
Hold the phone… full foot pedal/cleat’s is a brilliant idea. Then your actual shoe could be flexible for walking, as long as it clipped in correctly to be stiff for cycling. That person is onto something.
You'd need pedals for all footsizes. Considering we'd need footwear of all sizes anyway it would make setups way more user specific, nightmare for shops and users especially if they have really big or really small feet alas
@@ffranielyou’d need pedal/ shoe specific combinations, but we do already pretty much have that, whatever the new cleat that was just released needs specific shoes, and ultralight pedals too. It probably wouldn’t be mass market, but there’s a lot of commuter cyclists who are relatively serious cyclists that would probably use it. You wouldn’t necessarily need size specific pedals, a shoe could have say 8 connection points around the shoe, giving the illusion of stiffness, doesn’t have to look like a shoe sole.
@@ffraniel There are wider pedals, check out Reverse E-Escape Pedals. I have a pretty wide foot and i refuse to ride with cleats so these are my choice. Many working shoes have very stiff soles, so they are a very good combination
Take a look at Ekoi PW8. Not that full length yet, but getting closer. I can totally see solid heel and forefoot with attachment points and flexible middle. Practically, transfering the shank from midsole to the pedal.
30 years ago there was a pedal or insert that allowed riders to use running shoes which allowed the transition from cycling to running in triathlons to be quicker. I can't remember the name of the product.
#askgcntech - can you pls do a video of Classified Hub to use with Shimano shifters. Si did a video 3 years ago, which did not cover the set up to enable shimano di2 shifters to use with Classified hub. Thank you, Bobby
Send in your questions using #askgcntech 💬
You shouldn't use tubes in tubeless though. It's dangerous.
That tubeless question guy made me laugh the best laugh I've had in a while, thanks mates
Reading comments before the question came up I was like ‘why are these people making fun of a new guy asking a question’
I know it’s a little more expensive and time intensive at the front end but having a rotation of several waxed chains has worked well for me for my commuter. Using standard strava data makes it easy enough to rotate based on mileage and general wear and when (not if) it rains, I have pre-waxed chains ready to slap on giving me plenty of time to re-wax the used one(s)
I’m of the same view. It’s less expensive than bike specific drip on lubes… more expensive than people who use 3-in-1 or motor oil. No real time difference either way… either re-waxing or constantly wiping down and relubing the chain.
It ultimately comes down to operating conditions, not cost or time.
Waxed is where it is at. Never going back. So much cleaner and smoother. As far as time, think of the time spent cleaning up an oiled lube drive train! Major surgery.
Agree, once the initial cost and chain prep is done it's a piece of cake, wish I'd done it sooner.
Lol the tubeless guy gave me a laugh. There's even alot of bikes that come straight from manufacturers with tubeless wheels and tires but set up with tube's presumably for shelf life reasons
I still don’t know why riders (and pro teams!!) would put tubes in a tubeless tires. Even super light TPU tubes. Tubeless tires are heavier than clincher tires so if you gonna use tubes why using them with tubeless tires? The advantage of which being the sealant clogging small punctures and a lower inflation (more comfort, grip)
Bought a Trek Roscoe last year. Tubeless. Rode the piss out of it and this past winter went to suck the old sealant out and put new in. Nothing out of the rear and some clear fluid out of the front. After removing the rear there was no evidence of sealant at all. Must say those bontrager tires popped on tight to those bontrager rims. Lucky Duck.
@@SamuelBlackMetalRidersome tire models don't come in non tubeless versions nowadays
Just because manufacturers do something doesn't make it right/the best thing.
@@Hydun i know the VITTORIA CORSA PRO are said to be both clincher & tubeless… still not as light as proper clincher tires tho… or is it just for manufacturing convenience ? Like no need to release 2 different versions and 1 tubeless version can accommodate tubes? But they’re heavier so tube users would be kinda fcked
Thanks for answering my question lads!
Another option for commuting in wet conditions is simply to have multiple waxed chains. Just swap as necessary, and then re-wax them all at once when you need to. While it is a bit of a pain, it's still easier than cleaning a greasy, gritty, and wet mess all the time.
Stiffer shoes are amazing for sprinting, but for endurance and bikepacking rides, maybe we need to see longer cleats that was also recently demoed on GCN and some world travellers already the flat versions (e.g. Pedaling Innovations Catalyst pedals)
Early tubeless mtb setups used inner tubes as the seal between the rim and the tubeless tires.
Hi tech wizards! Thanks for answering a couple of my recent questions. I've got a new one.
Earlier today I was cleaning my drivetrain while transitioning another bike to wax. After degreasing my cassette I realized how greasy my brush had become. So I degreased that. Then I degreased my cassette removal tool, and that was pretty satisfying. I imagine you can anticipate where this might lead.
Can you talk to us a bit about cleaning and maintaining our bike tools (or do an episode)?
(i.e. what cleaners to use; what to watch for; torque wrench care and calibration; etc.)
Thanks!
#askGCNtech
The person undecided about wax chains in the wet can just have multiple chains and replace with a dry one.
That could work too!
So do we know where the air between the tube and tire goes on a tubeless tire/rim? Are there pixies that eat it?
Since there is no sealant being used, the air will relatively quickly leak through the tire/rim interface
Since everyone is just speculating - It’s either in the tube or outside the tube. It’s the same amount of air and it will compress the tube inwards if needed
dont forget that aero frame with shallow wheels will also cause LESS fatigue and easier to ride in cross winds than a climbing bike with deeper wheels.
SRAM-Shimano-mix: the 12s flattop road chains have bigger rollers, so there will be higher wear on cassette and chain !!
Rain + wax: use drip on wax, like squirt, smoove, etc. Rainy day? In the evening add a light amount to refill the chain, and next day the bike is good to go. Same applies in case of hot melt waxing. In this case some alcoholic solution of the original wax could work as well (based on some youtube video, have not tried yet)
no
Going uphill go with the lighter wheels, going flat take the deeper more heavy wheels.
Thank you for setting us straight on the pedal platform issue. Maybe it made sense in the old days, but I never felt a difference between my Keos and my Egg Beaters.
I found the exact opposite. No foot problems with my Keo's. Recently switched to Candy Egg Beaters as a result sore feet and tenderness due to the small size of the cleat right under the ball of both feet. Now I have to consider going back to Keo's. Especially for long rides and multiple continuous days.
@@StephanieHughesDesign Hmmm, interesting. I wonder about your shoes. Here’s a thought experiment. Imagine that the sole of your shoe is a 2x4 board. Could you tell which pedal you’re standing on? If so, I wonder if it’s because of the location of the pivot point relative to your foot. Try moving your cleat as far back toward your arch as it will go. Also, check the side to side adjustment of the cleats.
Note also that, with Eggbeaters, you can change the amount of float by turning them over.
Single sided pedals are fine for racing or long rides with few stops. I switched to double sided pedals because they are easy to click into. I have XTRs on my tandem, Eggbeaters on my mountain bike, and Zeros on my road bike. For the Zeros, Speedplay sold an adapter that allowed placement of the cleat 15mm further back than what my shoes would have allowed, so the pivot point is closer to my arch, which I like.
If the sole of the shoe distributes the load then why are so many arguments made for road pedals with larger platforms delivering better power transfer when compared to mountain bike pedals. If the sole is rigid enough, which I think most cycling specific shoes are, I don't see why it should make much of a difference in terms of power transfer. I also don't think that most mountain bike or cyclocross racers would opt for such small pedals if it was truly leaving any performance on the table.
My question for GCN tech regarding saddle height, and in particular, Pogacar: Is Pogacar's saddle height lower than what is conventionally believed to be the right saddle height (e.g., 0.883 X inseam)?
#askgcntech I have a 2021 Alumuinim BMC Teammachine with the groupset of the people. It has a carbon d-shaped seat post. I have a medium bike bag attached to that seat post with levers, tubes and a mini pump, which I assume is negating the aero benefit. I could remove that bag and put all that in the second water bottle cage, what do yiu think is more aero?
Another answer for the guy asking about wax lube for commuters; You can step into it.
Get an ultrasonic cleaner; you won't regret it even if you stick with wet lubes. Then try a drip on wax lube.
If that's okay, you can move to a wax setup, with a cheap crockpot to melt.
In fact waxing is much cheaper than lubing with oils - as long as you go the sensible route and just melt regular paraffin wax instead of those overpriced solutions from Silca or others.
You can also make your own solution using alcohol, for cold drip application.
I commute with Silca hot waxed chains. After rain swap chain to freshly waxed one, use microfibre cloth and Xpower air duster to quickly dry wet chain and leave it to cook in Silca wax melter, hang chain to dry at a convenient time. Would never use wet lube, the mess and damage it does to the drivetrain is not worth the hassle.
I run tubes in tubeless tires all the damn time. Gravel, MTB and Fatty.
It seems to me that wax ought to be at least as resistant to "washing out" as oil based lubes. any information on that? Having two chains one on the bike and one ready to go should work no problem.
Ollie King of Wax
I've been using tubes for tubeless tires on my MTB for years cause I got tired of the process. Now I don't even know now where I placed those tubeless valves I removed. 😊
#askgcntech is the tubeless tire question maybe saying "don't use tubes in an all-the-way tubeless tire system?" Like with the sealant and the interior part of the valve and the tape and everything? Because that actually makes sense. Maybe he's putting sealant in his tube as well? Not sure about the cornering bit, tho
I clicked on this video because I couldn't imagine why anyone would be talking about seat post clamps on this channel, since discrete ones aren't used on any good quality modern bike that I know of (because they all have an integrated clamp of some sort), but as it turns out, you're just talking about seat clamps, AKA: "seat guts."
A seat post clamp is a shaft collar with a pinch bolt that fits over the top of the frame's seat tube and keeps the seat post in place (you have to loosen it to adjust the height of your seat). BMXs were probably the last breed of bike to use them (not counting cheap department store bikes in general), but by about the early 2000s, most BMX frames had one that was integrated into the frame's seat tube.
In one month I am doing the Ironman in Copenhagen. I just bought new Continental GP5000 S TR (not installed yet) and I am doubting between which tubes. I prefer tubes over tubeless since I am familiar with them. On GCN's advice I started looking for latex inner tubes but I can't find any for my rim height (43mm). Should I go TPU (which have longer valves) or is the advantage of TPU and latex not that big over the "race" butyl tubes? Or should I buy a valve extender?
In before Ollie says "just go tubeless"...
Valve extender ?
I live in Copenhagen and if the weather is rainy or damp, I’d suggest you to set it up tubeless, because we have quite a lot of pretty sharp, tiny flints here in the area around, and if using inner tubes we used to have punctures more often. It’s much worse in the forests than on the streets though
So if you want to go for tubes, definitely bring a repair kit to be on the safe side :)
Best of luck for your race!!
A comment from someone who spent an English winter commuting on waxed chains ... I'd never do it again. A constant battle against rust. There are things you can do to help but in the end it's a losing battle. Waxing in itself isn't as much hassle as it's perceived to be, it works well and is clean, but when it's constantly wet and salty it's just grief. The stuff you need to do to not wake up to an orange chain next day, isn't worth the grief.
A good all weather wet lube (Weldtite is excellent and very reasonably priced) is the far better solution. so long as you don't overlube, regularly give it a quick wipe and when you relube always wipe, wipe, wipe, lube and wipe, it isn't that much dirtier, it works and ... no rust. Waxed chains are great but not for this.
i agree! i'd use better wet lube though
#askgcntech I was intrigued by the Recon cassette Vivian was talking about in the tech show. Finally, gearing for those of us who aren't riding at 45kph all the time! I'm a little concerned because I have SRAM, and the Recon site says the Shimano/SRAM cassettes are identical, save the inclusion of the SRAM adapter with SRAM purchases. But what of the cog-to-cog spacing, and the fact that SRAM's chain rollers are larger diameter? Will using one of these lead to compromised shifting or quicker wear of either chain or cassette? Inquiring minds want to know!
@askgcntech hey Oli and Xavier, thanks for your informative weekly vids. Question; I’ve been using 42 cm handlebars for the last 10 years and am considering going down to 38 cm bars as the trend for aero is gaining popularity. Will going to narrower bars affect the geometry of the bike and possibly impact my back and shoulders? Cheers.
Silca synergetic for commuting and want to have low friction and longevity
I have a lovely set of cranks on my bike but I think the thread screwing the left crank onto the right crank has worn down so the crank falls off every so often. I really like the cranks, so would prefer not to replace them, would a spot of glue on the thread be a good fix (as the thread doesn't go under much strain it just slowly unscrews with time) if I knew I could still break the glued thread if need be to remove the crank? Or do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks#askgcntech
Question about chain lengths. I use the "+2 links" method for sizing a chain but I was cleaning my bike and noticed the chain looked a little short when on the largest chain ring and largest cog (despite being 2 links longer). Question: should I lengthen the chain or leave as is. Please note for reference I have 50/34 chainrings and a 11-30T cassette. I am running a 105 medium cage rear derailleur. #askgcntech
4:32 use a water-wax emulsion like "squirt" .
If the conventional clamp has its halves with contact points opposing each other (while some may have longer top with shorter bottom), should suffice on the carbon rail. Considering the rail is oval and not square.
Sram actually recommend using wet lube and not wax/dry lube.
#askgcntech I have front wheel wobble. My QR is greased and tightened correctly, there is no visible damage to wheel or fork, both wheels and bike are clean, but I still get slight lateral play. What do you think is causing this? I have a Canyon Ultimate in good condition with Winspace Hyper 38mm wheels which are less than a year old.
#askgcntech Aero question for Ollie. We know that round tubes are horrible aerodynamically but how close could a wheel set optimized to a round tubed frame get to an aero frame in watts? Could one extend the rule of 105 to match the trailing edge of the front wheel to the down tube and the leading edge of the rear wheel to the seat tube and make significant savings? Second question, I have small hands and never use the last 2 inches of my drops. Would cutting that last section off have a detrimental effect aerodynamically, by disrupting airflow?
#askgcntech not quite a tech clinic question, but I noticed tadej pogacar is wearing a wristwatch during the big French bike ride. Even during the TT wearing the skin suit. Is this just a sponsor thing, what is it (surely not just to tell when lunchtime is), and how big a wattage cost is it?
#askgcntech my speedplay pedals keep squeaking. After servicing the cleats and pedals, it goes away, but then comes back after about an hour of riding. Time to replace? Any tips?
can someone please explain to me what that tubeless + tube guy was trying to say? like i honestly dont understand the issue he was proposing. like if you puncture your inner tube, how is the air supposed the get caught? your tyre will have that same hole and theyre most likely even aligned pretty well????
there was one flat pedal around 150mm but it was super overpriced and hard to get, most are 115mm at max and i also dont know why, bigger platform = more comfort and you pedal with the center of your foot transfering more power
8:10 or you could friction shift and be happy
I get it but a friction RD sucks if you like to ride sufficiently fast.
Sram chains might have the same pitch, but the roller diameter of T-type is different, so it will cause severe cassette wear.
#askgcntech Kind folks. Having preventatively replaced the chain but kept the cassette - as per chain checker tool - on my silky smooth GRX810 (ca 3500km), the two smallest sprockets started skipping under load regardless of adjustment. Refitting the old chain got me back to silky smooth. Are these sprockets too mangled already? Do I replace chain and cassette together after all and when?
My Name is EDI so dont bother with the Nickname.... Wonder if I am right here, with my daft question:
I have watched a lot of tubless related videos just about everywhere. One thing noone has taken into account seems to be how long these rimtapes last for. I have one of my N+1 bikes that has now done close to 7000km in two years on a tubeless setup. Within a few weeks the front and then rear tape (Schwalbe) have blown through a spokehole. It happened aways before a ride when topping up the pressure. I usually pump between 5,5 and 5,8 bar according to the tools on the known pages. The holes are nice and deburred. I didn´t really overstretch the tape when mounting. I think the maximum pressure I applied is about 7bar when mounting the tire. When changing the tire I use plastic levers and pay attention not to "dig" at the rim or tape.
As usual the asker is answering his own question? I am running out of things I could have done wrong. All I can think of is the tape has a shelf life? Or, eventhough NOT stated explicitly as a requirement by Schwalbe, I DID NOT do two layers of tape all round...
And YES I do wax my chain 😂😂
#ASKGCNTECH
#askgcntech Hey GCN tech.
I find myself turning my wrists inward when riding on the hoods. Would a narrower handlebar be better or is it position/fitness that needs to get better? Thanks in advance.
I have a question to you, guys. My Left shifter R7000 sti is broken recently. I have a spare R3000 Sora and Claris Left Sti shifter. Is it ok to install pairing with R7000 FD? I appreciate your response. Thank you..
Direct Mount Rear Derailleur - is this there much to gain for replacing the stock rear derailleur mount with a 3d printed/after market option? #askgcntech
Thinking through that inner-tube & tubeless tire comment, I suppose the risk is non-zero. If you put a tube in AND have the valve hole of your rim somehow sealed up for some reason, then you could theoretically pinch flat and still have air pressure in the system waiting to be released. Not sure what happens after that which would be "dangerous" but just trying to brainstorm whatever the hell that guy is worried about...
#askgcntech: If I had a 25/28 front/rear width tyre or 28/30, etc, would having the tyres at the same pressure be optimal for aero, comfort and rolling resistance?
#askgcntech virtual racing question. When racing I always start hard and get in with the lead group most of the time. After spending months of going flat out and creating solo breakaways before burning out and being destroyed a few km from the end, I am finally enjoying that draft.
My question. If I am stuck in no man's land (billy no-mates) with leaders a few hundred metres ahead, a chase group several hundred metres behind me. Do I keep powering along on my own or is it best to slow down and hope to get caught sooner . Thanks.
Btw racing on Rouvy - for reference.
#askgcntech
If you could put movable flaps on your bikes would you do it? Like in F1 cars. Is there such a rule against it in the UCI rules? 😮
Pedals the size of feet wouldn't work, not because of stiff shoes transferring load - come on, this question could be asked at anytime in history. Feet don't remain flat for much of their circular journey, so to keep contact you would need to strap the whole of the pedal to the whole of your foot for absolutely no benefit whatsoever.
I mean yeah, there are a lot of stupid/wrong stuff on GCN, some (like TPU) could be potentially even dangerous…but TLR with tubes 😂😂 it makes even more sense, since the tires are thicker and more puncture resistent.
i didn’t actually realize they were still making tires that *were not* tubeless ready 😂
Ok, so I have converted to a wax head like I have been instructed to by GCN tech but have run into a problem. I ended up using drip on after each ride, thinking it would keep the chain in tip top order, but what it did was cake up on the pulley wheels like crazy! Like there was no more room between the pulley wheels and the cage. So take me through good rider hygiene. I come home and want to be a good little cyclist and maximise my waxed chain set up …… what next?
Can you turn a mtb into a roadbike
Mtb frame with roadbike parts
Yes albeit rather expensive. A lot of things need to be replaced, it’s cheaper to buy a new bike in the end. The end result will be a lighter and more aerodynamic bike.
#askgcntech
I want to get a TT Bike but I want to stick to 2x. 2 questions: Is it possible to configure it such that I actually shift the front derailleur manually instead of using di2 synchro shift? Second: Is a 58/42 chainring combo fine, or is the gap too big? I have seen Campenaerts has such a setup but I don't have pro mechanics at my disposal on every race
Thanks!
#askgcntech
Hi guys, I was on a ride last weekend when it was raining and when I was crossing some railway tracks at an angle my front wheel slipped and got lodged between the track and the road interface. While I was washing my bike later I noticed the front wheel had a small chip on the edge of the aluminium braking surface. Is the wheel safe to ride or is the wheel a write off? Tks
Hello #askgcntech team, I have a problem with my Ultegra 6800 mechanical 11-speed cassette shifter. Sometimes when I shift to a lighter gear the larger lever does not return fully, leading to the smaller lever not engaging. During rides I would have to pull the larger lever back manually. A few turns tightening the cable corrects this but only temporarily. What is the proper fix? Do I need to upgrade to the new SRAM Red AXS group set?
Try cleaning your shifter internals and rear derailleur.
Sounds like it is time for new cables (and probably new cable housing too).
With use, the cable gradually wears, increasing friction in the system, and decreasing shift performance.
New cables are way cheaper than a new groupset.
Why is it rare to find carbon wheelsets for road bikes under 30mm in depth? They seem mostly reserved for gravel bikes. #askgcntech
#askgcntech With the new Aeroad out I'm (please send help) thinking about buying one yet again. Large powerful riders would certainly benefit from their top tier carbon CFR, but what about a smaller and less powerful =( rider. It stands to reason that somebody who weights 60kg and makes 1000 watts in a sprint doesn't need nearly as stiff of a bike as somebody who weighs 80kg and makes 2000. Save some serious cash and go for the CF SLX? What are your thoughts?
Couldn’t Pogi ride the C68 if he wanted to? As long as it’s a Colnago 🤷🏼♂️
Bike tire ❤1/8m
Tubeless guy, haha off this planet!
#gcntech
philparky55
Getting old, almost 62! Interested in Zone 2 training as a method of keeping fit without overtraining but I'm confused by the different systems you guys and girls use. So is it Zone 2 HR, Zone 2 HRR or Zone 2 power? Hope it's Zone 2 HRR - that's where I have been training!
#askgcntech - What bike pedal / cleat system would you say is the easiest to unclip from? Following achilies surgery as a kid I have reduced strength and movement in one ankle and don't want to waste money on a system that I would struggle to get out off 😂
Shimano MTB
The tubeless guy definitely didn't seat the bead all the way. It's harder than you'd think until you get used to it.
There's no impact on the foot, in the same way when you run or lift or play basketball. The entire load is on the forefoot, so a full foot pedal is over engineered and weighs too much.
I'm an idiot and even I know that.
@4:24. WTF blasphemy did I just hear?
Desperate times, desperate measures 🤷♂😅
I thought chains had to be exceptionally clean before waxing? How does that "commuter waxing" setup work, you can't just have people throwing dirty chains into a pot of clean wax?
Watch Zero Friction Cycling's Waxed life like a boss video, it's easy. Yes chains would have to be prepped with strip chip etc before waxing.
Wow, the tubeless guy sure was triggered.
I've been riding tubeless tires with tubes for tens of thousands of km, and never had the issue he mentioned. Every puncture, albeit rare, ended up with air escaping the system.
Hold the phone… full foot pedal/cleat’s is a brilliant idea. Then your actual shoe could be flexible for walking, as long as it clipped in correctly to be stiff for cycling.
That person is onto something.
You'd need pedals for all footsizes. Considering we'd need footwear of all sizes anyway it would make setups way more user specific, nightmare for shops and users especially if they have really big or really small feet alas
@@ffranielyou’d need pedal/ shoe specific combinations, but we do already pretty much have that, whatever the new cleat that was just released needs specific shoes, and ultralight pedals too.
It probably wouldn’t be mass market, but there’s a lot of commuter cyclists who are relatively serious cyclists that would probably use it.
You wouldn’t necessarily need size specific pedals, a shoe could have say 8 connection points around the shoe, giving the illusion of stiffness, doesn’t have to look like a shoe sole.
@@ffraniel There are wider pedals, check out Reverse E-Escape Pedals. I have a pretty wide foot and i refuse to ride with cleats so these are my choice. Many working shoes have very stiff soles, so they are a very good combination
Take a look at Ekoi PW8. Not that full length yet, but getting closer. I can totally see solid heel and forefoot with attachment points and flexible middle. Practically, transfering the shank from midsole to the pedal.
30 years ago there was a pedal or insert that allowed riders to use running shoes which allowed the transition from cycling to running in triathlons to be quicker. I can't remember the name of the product.
#askgcntech - can you pls do a video of Classified Hub to use with Shimano shifters. Si did a video 3 years ago, which did not cover the set up to enable shimano di2 shifters to use with Classified hub. Thank you, Bobby
Or you can email Classified