I don't comment on DIYs. Like ever. But I want to thank you so much for doing it right: Take the video, edit it properly, use still pictures where appropriate, and narrate over the video instead of shaky-cam narration while you take the video. Please keep making these, this poor fool appreciates it.
Hey, you saved me so much money and time on my 2011 ford transit. I almost went and spent hundreds on coils and plugs and found a hole in my air intake hose. After watching your video, I went straight to the PFV valve and that’s how I found the hole in the hose. I’m going to pick one up tomorrow. Thanks a lot
Currently having the same issues on my 1998 Ford RV. I pray to God that this is the fix I need cause I amas fas as a mechanic as you can get and I thank God for finding your channel.
Thank you so much!! I looked at another video of changing the PCV valve and it looked totally impossible for a non-diy type like me. You give me hope that I can do this and not spend hundreds of dollars for a car that is already 17 years old!
Thanks a lot Mr.Didrill! I consider myself to be the opposite of mechanically inclined, but thanks to your video I was able to fix this very annoying problem with little cost. Your services are very much appreciated! And if it helps anyone, I have a 2003 Taurus and this hose was located on the top-left side of the Engine. It's directly exposed; no disassembly was required.
I have fought the good fight against the 99 Taurus I (dis)affectionately call "The Tomato". I have replaced the egr valve amongst other parts. I will definitely be checking this out asap! Thank you for this vid. Much appreciated sir!
Wow! I can't believe I stumbled upon this video! Exactly what My car needed! Thank you very much! Amazing all the info we can find on the internet! You have made my weekend much more enjoyable and worry free!
Thank you very much. Your video placed me on the right path to solve my problem. It was a roller-coaster ride from beginning to end, but I have a sweet ending. All started with engine light on coming on later the car started running rough and stalling at long red lights.. AutoZone read the code 0174; ECM has detected a rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio. It suggested several causes but not air leak. The guy reading the code confirmed to me that it was a bad O2 sensor. After ordering all 4 sensors, I stumbled over your video and ran to my car to check my PCV valve. Surely My PCV value Rubber Elbow was damaged. It was leaking air. After replacing it the car seemed worse so I changed the air filter and drove home unhappy until I saw another video that recommended resting the ECM.by simply unhooking the batter for few moments and then reconnecting it. Happy to say that the engine light is gone and the car runs great again. Thank you very much.
A vacuum leak will cause many false engine codes - Oxygen sensor, and lean bank 1 and or bank 2 are the most common. Anytime you get multiple codes, look for a vacuum leak for the real problem. The red light will go off by itself after a day or 2, if the problem was fixed, and disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes will reset the engine computer and the red light will go off. If the problem is still there, the red light will go back on in a few days or sooner.
You were right, junk-yard tube had a hole-in-it, so went to Auto Zone, 9.95, for a new-one. Did the trick..Thanks again, Your Post, is Very Much Appreciated...
Thanks a lot for the tip, I had the same problem, I watched your video and found that my PCV hose looked just like yours, I replaced it and the car runs perfect!! love saving money
James Talajkowski It always seems that problem is always the hardest to find, or the hardest to get to. I used a Chrysler vacuum hose, because it was the same I.D. and was available is the store. It was also cheaper than ordering the exact replacement part.
Every time I have booked my car in new parts have been purchased and labour charged off course but nothing fixed. I even saw that he put a new clamp on the hose. But yesterday when I watched this video, problem solved.
That is a common problem, so expect the same thing to happen with a used one, but it will give you some time to order a cheap one, or find an aftermarket one, if you plan on keeping the car much longer.
I try my best to fix my own vehicles and well put together videos like this really help make it possible. Thank you for your time and effort. I of course subscribed .
Thanks for the vid. I was looking into engine stalling issues and such and blah blah blah... totally forgot about checking that little guy hiding under the plastic cover. Mechanic tip #3 or something like that... Never forget about vacuum leaks. This will solve some problems and give you a better OBD scan after clearing the codes and a good drive.. Cheap and easy! Thanks, and Cheers!
Thank you. The hose I removed looked exactly like yours. One of those things I could hear, and there's almost no graphic info to locate it, I looked and looked but couldn't see it, Sure enough once you know where its at wahlah!! Hope this video saves someone else a lot of trouble too. Thanks again..
Thank u for doing this one. I have the same issue u had before fixing the hose.. and i too replaced the IAC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor. It fixed it some but I have the rough idling and and stalling.. will go check the hose..
It's funny because despite us having different 3.0 engines (mine is the DOHC), the air intake on both of them are the same. After the car sat in the snow for a week it didn't want to start so I had the air intake apart while I tried to dump fuel into the upper intake through the air hose. In doing so I guess I messed up the PCV valve hose. Might be a pretty easy fix; thanks for the pointer!
Turned out to be a different vacuum line that was loose but watching this video certainly lead me in that direction as I found it by accident fiddling with another line connected at some point to the loose one. Thanks again.
On my '99 taurus DOHC, I found the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator had come off at the air intake manifold. Hooked it back up, put everything back together, and it runs just fine.
This was very educational wanted to replace my pcv value when I had my sparks plugs installed but didn't know where it was located on my 2003 Ford taurus se but I know now that's a lot just had a lot of work done on my car just recently had my cv axles replaced in the front now I have a squeaky noise on the left side on my car just had lower ball joints replace what else could it be
Hopefully, my almost identical problem (1998 Sable with rough idle and stalling) will be fixed tomorrow when I get a PVC valve and hose. Too bad I have already replaced the plugs, wires, ignition coil, and MAF sensor. Oh well, it was due for a tuneup anyway.
did that take care of the engine light as well. I havent done it yet but I I believe its that small hose u changed.or throttle sencor kind of runs rough changed plugs and wires .that helped a little what do u think I.have 2003 ford Taurus se
2012 ford fiesta is rough idling and stalling out at red lights periodically. Sometimes it runs alright, sometimes it does exactly as described in the video. We're thinking either MAF sensor or something with the fuel injectors, but I'm gonna check this out first. Hopefully this is the problem, and it'll be a much cheaper fix!
It could also be an "idle air control valve" that needs cleaning. A MAF sensor is also very easy to clean with a MAF spray cleaner. www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-clean-an-idle-air-control-valve-by-joyce-morse
I have a 96 Taurus doing exactly that with the RPMS but only when I am braking, it runs fine driving, I am going to take a look at the pcv and replace it. I can't think of anything else the brake booster has no leaks, what had happen was I replaced the fuel sending unit and after, it started the fluctuation when braking at stop signs and lights, it never did it before. It's been puzzling, I read to adjust the idle, I have not done that yet,because I don't see why that would be the problem if I had never touched it from where it was before.
i have a 1995 ford taurus gl 3.8 liter. i have the stall problem as well at stop lights. just did a tune up at speedees and it feels the same. should i check the hose? thanks
It's the 'Mike Jones Rule' we used at work... " do not assume it is complicated. it's probably something simple or stupid... " You can do this repair cheap and easy and save hundreds at a car garage!
thx u fixed my problem stalling now to fix the stupid little widget where a Y pipe connects the radiator hoses together. it broke off when I barely touched smdh :)
my 2000 ford taurus acts like it wants to cut off when at stop signs or in park. Change the spark plugs run fine for one day now back to acting like it wants to cut off..any suggestions as to what could be wrong?
I've got a 2003 Ford Taurus, the Centennial Edition, and I've made this replacement 7 times now. (Yes, 7.) Each time, it will stop the rough idling and stalling at stops, but it only lasts for about a month or two before it starts up again. I've replaced the PCV valve, the elbow, and all the hoses numerous times. It works for a little while, and then starts up again. Each time I check the valve, hoses, and/or elbow, it's somehow got a crack or a hole in it again. This is extremely frustrating...
I got a 2002 ford Taurus and its idling rough when I start or come to a stop sign or light; also when just starting the motor and haven't even put it in gear, it wants to die.....my pcv valve is located in a different location. can you advise me on if this could be or what i'm actually lookin for when I try to diagnosis my problem
There is a vacuum diagram sticker located under your hood, usually near the hood latch or top of the radiator. You can also do a search for "2008 Nissan 2.5L vacuum line diagram" When looking for a leak, the most common area are cracks and splits at the ends, where they are connected , due to more heat in that area, or even a hose that has been disconnected. Another common area is anywhere that a hose is very close to the heat of the engine, which is usually a place that is the hardest to get to.
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus with a DOHC 24 valve engine that runs rough. I replaced the engine with another engine because the valves burnt out and this engine is doing the same thing I am having two cylinders not firing. I told my nephew who is working on it that I think it could be the computer. So could you or someone please help me with this problem thank you
A mechanic told me it was running rough because of a bad throttle body, it was a common problem, about $250 - $300. What bullshit! Thanks so kindly, I will try this first & if it works I'm gonna be pissed (but happy)! LOL
if it is a bad throttle body due to being clogged up, as is not uncommon, you can clean it with Throttle Body Cleaner. if it is really caked up, and the cleaner does not work on its own, then you may be able to break it loose with a long screwdriver, or if not, you will need to take the throttle body off of the car, and clean it, which does not take that long. There are ports that get blocked, that will not allow it to work properly, so you may need something like a piece of solid wire to clean it out.
kimberly bell it is called an "Emission Hose" and you can find one at auto part stores, and even Walmart. They might not have the exact fit in stock, but you can find one like I did that has the same inside measurement. The one I found that fit was at PepBoys, and was actually for a Chrysler.
I tried buying the parts in MN and one guy was nice and gave me a mechanic number for a good guy. But no other mechanics will work on it and always give me a high quote. And their short and rude. The auto place said he couldn't say what tube it was and I said a emissions hose. Ugh just a girl trying to fix her Cadillac it's my only car. I could cry:/
You might also just go to a couple small wrecking yards, and they might help you find the disconnected or leaking vacuum hose for a relatively small cash payment. If not, there will surely be a lot of shade tree mechanics that go in and out of wrecking yards, that might also be willing to help.
@@MrDidrill So over the weekend I got touch feely with my cars hoses looking for a vacuum leak....I actually could hear it hissing, I found some tiny holes on the intake manifold, right where the other side of the pcv hose goes into the manifold. My budgets tight so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and slapped some JB Weld on it!! Doesn't stall anymore, idols smoother but I still had a hissing, I found one more hole hidden behind another hose, so I fixed that one today!! 😉....but that means I may have a bigger problem with my catalytic converter causing those holes in the first place.😔
I love JB Weld. used it recently to repair a water leak in my main line, which was much easier that cutting it out. Not sure how a catalytic converter could cause leaks, but maybe some catalytic converter cleaner would work. I use the "solder-it catalytic converter", and it prevented me from needing to change the catalytic converter, and made the previous failed smog test pass with almost no pollutants.
@@MrDidrill Apparently I have 3 Cats, 2 up in front close to the manifold and the one towards the back. I reset the codes it was sending out, with the manifold leaking it had several different codes going off. So I'll wait to see if it comes back on and go from there. I just don't know what caused those holes other than extreme heat. And my Dad always used JB Weld, he taught me a great deal about cars...which is why I landed a job as a Parts Manager for mainly Forklifts, but other industrial units as well.😉
@@kimba23999 Don't worry about multiple codes, as a vacuum leak can cause many different problems, and all of the related codes will go away when the leak is fixed.
@@BlitzGiita A vacuum leak can cause this code, but if you are sure that the hoses are all alright, then it is most likely an oxygen sensor. See repairpal.com/gm-obd-code-44
do you know on the EGR valve on the 1999 Ford Taurus double overhead cam V6 best model if it takes two gaskets are one gasket.... your help is muchly appreciated
I replaced the IAC valve on my 01 Taurus because I thought it was the cause of my car stalling during idling, especially when it's really hot out. It did not run rough, it just sputtered and stalled. The next day after the new IAC, it started to surge and idle high when coming to a stop sign. My mechanic replaced the PCV valve and hose to hopefully fix the stalling in hot weather. He told me the IAC I put on must be bad and sticking, so I should return it. I did and replaced it with another new one (Borg Warner from OReilly's) The problem persisted. I don't think the first one was bad. I should have kept my old IAC. The fuel pressure was OK when my mechanic checked. Any thoughts on why it's suddenly doing this?
If the check engine is not on, then it could be the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) needs cleaning. It is easy to do, but only use "Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner". as it is very sensitive and expensive. Be careful not to break the fragile sensor or touch it with your fingers. There are a lot of videos on how to do it. Here is one by Scotty Kilmer to get you started Cleaning A Mass Air Flow Sensor To Stop Hesitation
Im having a similar issue with my 2000 mercury sable. It runs rough and the rpm isn't stable (it revs up a little over 1rpm, then sputters below 500 before dying) It mostly happens on a cold start and dies in park but warming the car up sorta stabilizes it. but its still sort of shaky. Im trying to check the vacuum lines but I dont understand the diagram sheets for my car. mechanics have cleaned the throttle body and replaced spark plugs and my EGR valve but that only seemed to lessen the issue a little, not fix it, because my car goes right back to misbehaving soon after. I do think it's a hose problem because I can hear a sucking/blowing sound when i lean close to my EGR valve. the sound can be heard when im driving and i put my foot on the accelerator, but its prominent on the passenger side. I just dont know where to look. its hard to track with the engine on. does this video apply to my car too? or where should I begin to look? im trying to get into DIY because I feel like mechanics are just giving me the run around
The car in the video is a Ford Taurus, which is identical to a Mercury Sable, so your vacuum leak would most likely be in the same place, if you have the same engine. Otherwise, just start by taking off the air cleaner and intake and look and feel around for the vacuum hoses. Sometimes there is one between the firewall and the Carburetor, which is hard to find with the air cleaner on.
1988 Lincoln town 4 ltr car stalls cold and hot ,battery goes dead also alternator testng new regulator ,fuses all good heat gage flickers some times when heater speed incresed ?
I had an '88 Lincoln LSC 5.0 and some electrical gremlins disappeared after replacing the alternator. Stalling might be from a loose or leaky vacuum line.
I don't comment on DIYs. Like ever. But I want to thank you so much for doing it right: Take the video, edit it properly, use still pictures where appropriate, and narrate over the video instead of shaky-cam narration while you take the video. Please keep making these, this poor fool appreciates it.
Thanks.
Yes, but he forgot or neglected to include the sequence where he puts the hose back on.
Putting the hose back on, is the opposite of taking it off. This was done by feel, more that being able to see.
@@mikemapleshade6718 you're the reason they put "Warning hot liquid" on coffee cups..
whoisroman LMFAO
Hey, you saved me so much money and time on my 2011 ford transit. I almost went and spent hundreds on coils and plugs and found a hole in my air intake hose. After watching your video, I went straight to the PFV valve and that’s how I found the hole in the hose. I’m going to pick one up tomorrow. Thanks a lot
I am glad that the video helped you.
Currently having the same issues on my 1998 Ford RV.
I pray to God that this is the fix I need cause I amas fas as a mechanic as you can get and I thank God for finding your channel.
It most likely is your problem, and is a very easy fix.
Clear, concise, logical information and instruction. Exactly what all tutorials should hope to be. Well done, Sir.
Thank you so much for the comment. It is much appreciated.
Thank you so much!! I looked at another video of changing the PCV valve and it looked totally impossible for a non-diy type like me. You give me hope that I can do this and not spend hundreds of dollars for a car that is already 17 years old!
I went through hell figuring all of this out on my own, if only I had found this video sooner! Either way, the video was really great, good job!
Thanks for the post.
Thanks a lot Mr.Didrill! I consider myself to be the opposite of mechanically inclined, but thanks to your video I was able to fix this very annoying problem with little cost. Your services are very much appreciated!
And if it helps anyone, I have a 2003 Taurus and this hose was located on the top-left side of the Engine. It's directly exposed; no disassembly was required.
Thanks for the comment.
I have fought the good fight against the 99 Taurus I (dis)affectionately call "The Tomato". I have replaced the egr valve amongst other parts. I will definitely be checking this out asap! Thank you for this vid. Much appreciated sir!
Thanks for the comment.
I really enjoyed how well you explained these steps out!!! Thank you!!
I hope it helped you out of your problem.
I luv taisha baby😘😍
Wow! I can't believe I stumbled upon this video! Exactly what My car needed! Thank you very much! Amazing all the info we can find on the internet! You have made my weekend much more enjoyable and worry free!
Thank you very much. Your video placed me on the right path to solve my problem. It was a roller-coaster ride from beginning to end, but I have a sweet ending. All started with engine light on coming on later the car started running rough and stalling at long red lights.. AutoZone read the code 0174; ECM has detected a rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio. It suggested several causes but not air leak. The guy reading the code confirmed to me that it was a bad O2 sensor. After ordering all 4 sensors, I stumbled over your video and ran to my car to check my PCV valve. Surely My PCV value Rubber Elbow was damaged. It was leaking air. After replacing it the car seemed worse so I changed the air filter and drove home unhappy until I saw another video that recommended resting the ECM.by simply unhooking the batter for few moments and then reconnecting it. Happy to say that the engine light is gone and the car runs great again. Thank you very much.
A vacuum leak will cause many false engine codes - Oxygen sensor, and lean bank 1 and or bank 2 are the most common. Anytime you get multiple codes, look for a vacuum leak for the real problem. The red light will go off by itself after a day or 2, if the problem was fixed, and disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes will reset the engine computer and the red light will go off. If the problem is still there, the red light will go back on in a few days or sooner.
You were right, junk-yard tube had a hole-in-it, so went to Auto Zone, 9.95, for a new-one. Did the trick..Thanks again, Your Post, is Very Much Appreciated...
Now you are good for another 10-15 years, and saved paying a mechanic a whole lot more.
Much better video and explanation than all the other online presentations.
Thank you very much for such a nice comment, it is much appreciated.
Thanks a lot for the tip, I had the same problem, I watched your video and found that my PCV hose looked just like yours, I replaced it and the car runs perfect!! love saving money
James Talajkowski It always seems that problem is always the hardest to find, or the hardest to get to. I used a Chrysler vacuum hose, because it was the same I.D. and was available is the store. It was also cheaper than ordering the exact replacement part.
Outstanding troubleshooting of a common but easy problem you are a great instructional and hands on Tec.....
Just a back yard mechanic.
I appreciate you so! Thank you for this, MrDidrill.
Bravo!!! this is an awesome fix. My mechanic has failed to detect this after 5 bookings.
Maybe you should find a different mechanic. I hope he did not charge you for a bunch of unneeded parts and labor.
Every time I have booked my car in new parts have been purchased and labour charged off course but nothing fixed. I even saw that he put a new clamp on the hose. But yesterday when I watched this video, problem solved.
this video fixed the problem. I replaced the whole hose and the pcv valve and voila, idle problem fixed. thanks for uploading this video.
to add, my pcv valve was at the top on the left side not where he pointed out, but I have a 2003, still a 3.0.
Glad it helped you.
03 Taurus, yes, found hole-in-90 degree vacuum hose, right away, thanks to you.
going to junk yard, now to get replacement. Thank You Very Much...
That is a common problem, so expect the same thing to happen with a used one, but it will give you some time to order a cheap one, or find an aftermarket one, if you plan on keeping the car much longer.
I try my best to fix my own vehicles and well put together videos like this really help make it possible. Thank you for your time and effort. I of course subscribed .
Thanks for the comment, and by subscribing, helps a lot, thanks
Thanks for the vid. I was looking into engine stalling issues and such and blah blah blah... totally forgot about checking that little guy hiding under the plastic cover.
Mechanic tip #3 or something like that... Never forget about vacuum leaks. This will solve some problems and give you a better OBD scan after clearing the codes and a good drive.. Cheap and easy!
Thanks, and Cheers!
Vacuum leaks seem to be the most overlooked.
Not to sound weird but you have the most soothing and beautiful voice.
No, not weird. Thanks for the comment.
I have this same problem on a 2000 Taurus SES. Thanks for the clear demo.. 2 👍🏻👍🏻's up!!
WoW !! - Thanks for the great comment. I appreciate every single comment that I get.
I hope this works for me but I still want to say thank you very much . Well-made video !
How did it work out for you?
I think you just saved me from a huge headache and about $100 replacing the throttle position sensor and the IAC.
Always check for vacuum leaks first, as it can throw false engine codes and symptoms of many other things.
Thank you. The hose I removed looked exactly like yours. One of those things I could hear, and there's almost no graphic info to locate it, I looked and looked but couldn't see it, Sure enough once you know where its at wahlah!! Hope this video saves someone else a lot of trouble too. Thanks again..
Thank u for doing this one. I have the same issue u had before fixing the hose.. and i too replaced the IAC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor. It fixed it some but I have the rough idling and and stalling.. will go check the hose..
Good luck. I think you are on the right track.
Great video and no b.s. it worked thank you from a shade tree mechanic
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for your help, I punched my problem in with my mercury sable your video was the first to come up. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the post.
It's funny because despite us having different 3.0 engines (mine is the DOHC), the air intake on both of them are the same. After the car sat in the snow for a week it didn't want to start so I had the air intake apart while I tried to dump fuel into the upper intake through the air hose. In doing so I guess I messed up the PCV valve hose. Might be a pretty easy fix; thanks for the pointer!
If you accidentally pulled it loose, it would have the same symptom as a leak in the hose. Fortunately, it is easy to fix.
Turned out to be a different vacuum line that was loose but watching this video certainly lead me in that direction as I found it by accident fiddling with another line connected at some point to the loose one. Thanks again.
Thank you for sharing, from your good instructions I am going to check my R129 Benz it has a very rough idle in drive similar to the car in your demo
A vacuum leak is the most common with cars over 10 years old, but could also be something like the Mass Air Flow sensor needing to be cleaned.
On my '99 taurus DOHC, I found the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator had come off at the air intake manifold. Hooked it back up, put everything back together, and it runs just fine.
Good video i got to check my its runs a little rough on the first start up in the morning but after that she runs fine
I hope it helped you a little.
Very informative. Excellent video editing. Well done.
Thank you very much for comment. I do spend a lot of time editing out the annoying movements, and immaterial parts. Thanks for noticing.
My name is freddie and that was some very good advise and thank u for sharing your videos and hope that u share plenty more 10 star
ABSOLUTELY GREAT FIX. REALLY THANK YOU FOR THIS ALWAYS OVERLOOKED . KNOWLEDGE.
It seems that the cheapest and easiest fixes often are overlooked.
Thank you for this well explained video
This looks like it's the problem on my car, thank you!
It is very commonly over looked.
that's very good , my friend have a car and its stalling at the intersection, and when is stop in traffic. it wants to stall. thanks for the vide.
Thanks for the comment. At least this is an easy and cheap DIY fix.
Hell yeah bud! That's exactly what I found thanks to your vid. Thanks!
Glad it helped
This was very educational wanted to replace my pcv value when I had my sparks plugs installed but didn't know where it was located on my 2003 Ford taurus se but I know now that's a lot just had a lot of work done on my car just recently had my cv axles replaced in the front now I have a squeaky noise on the left side on my car just had lower ball joints replace what else could it be
I am glad that the video has helped.
thank you so much sir, for taking the time to post this.
Thanks for the comment.
I can't wait to check mine. My check engine light just came on and it is running very badly all of the sudden.
I hope that this is an easy fix for you.
Hopefully, my almost identical problem (1998 Sable with rough idle and stalling) will be fixed tomorrow when I get a PVC valve and hose. Too bad I have already replaced the plugs, wires, ignition coil, and MAF sensor. Oh well, it was due for a tuneup anyway.
It is a very common problem with your car, so I am sure that you have it fixed by now.
bobby did it worked??
You make it very easy the way you break it down how do yo do a 2009 ford limited taruas but its the alternator
Thanks for the comment
did that take care of the engine light as well. I havent done it yet but I I believe its that small hose u changed.or throttle sencor kind of runs rough changed plugs and wires .that helped a little what do u think I.have 2003 ford Taurus se
2012 ford fiesta is rough idling and stalling out at red lights periodically. Sometimes it runs alright, sometimes it does exactly as described in the video. We're thinking either MAF sensor or something with the fuel injectors, but I'm gonna check this out first. Hopefully this is the problem, and it'll be a much cheaper fix!
It could also be an "idle air control valve" that needs cleaning. A MAF sensor is also very easy to clean with a MAF spray cleaner.
www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-clean-an-idle-air-control-valve-by-joyce-morse
I believe Rock Auto stocks the PCV valve , tubing and molded elbows . You can view it on their website .
That is one of the cheapest, as well as carparts.com
Awesome and well explained. Thanks that what it was, a cracked hose!
Fantastic!! - The simplest and cheapest fixes are so often overlooked.
Good stuff sir i had this issue when working on my Idle air control valve.
Thanks for the comment
I have a 96 Taurus doing exactly that with the RPMS but only when I am braking, it runs fine driving, I am going to take a look at the pcv and replace it. I can't think of anything else the brake booster has no leaks, what had happen was I replaced the fuel sending unit and after, it started the fluctuation when braking at stop signs and lights, it never did it before. It's been puzzling, I read to adjust the idle, I have not done that yet,because I don't see why that would be the problem if I had never touched it from where it was before.
i have a 1995 ford taurus gl 3.8 liter. i have the stall problem as well at stop lights. just did a tune up at speedees and it feels the same. should i check the hose? thanks
Excellent explanation
Glad it was helpful!
It's the 'Mike Jones Rule' we used at work... " do not assume it is complicated. it's probably something simple or stupid... " You can do this repair cheap and easy and save hundreds at a car garage!
Funny thing is, that most car repair is simple and cheap, unless a mechanic gets a hold of it, and starts changing out parts.
thank u so much. my car fixed !!! :)
David dpal I am glad that it worked out for you.
Going to give this a shot on my moms car
Abraham Jaimes This seems to be a common problem. I hope it works for you also.
Thanks for the video. It solved the problem I was having.
Thanks for the comment.
thanks fixed my problem... after all the other stuff i bought to try and fix it
Glad it helped.
thx u fixed my problem stalling now to fix the stupid little widget where a Y pipe connects the radiator hoses together. it broke off when I barely touched smdh :)
Thanks for the comment.
my 2000 ford taurus acts like it wants to cut off when at stop signs or in park. Change the spark plugs run fine for one day now back to acting like it wants to cut off..any suggestions as to what could be wrong?
Thanks u just solved my problem Great video
Thanks for your comment. I am glad that you found the video.
Thanks for the video. I hope that fixes mine with a real bad idle problem.
Thanks for the comment.
I've got a 2003 Ford Taurus, the Centennial Edition, and I've made this replacement 7 times now. (Yes, 7.) Each time, it will stop the rough idling and stalling at stops, but it only lasts for about a month or two before it starts up again. I've replaced the PCV valve, the elbow, and all the hoses numerous times. It works for a little while, and then starts up again. Each time I check the valve, hoses, and/or elbow, it's somehow got a crack or a hole in it again. This is extremely frustrating...
Try to clean throttle body and iac valve
THANKS Video was a big help!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment
Excellent video for a simple fix thank you
Thanks for the comment.
Thanks that was the problem with mine runs fine now
Great, I am glad it helped solve your problem
Thank you.. This may be the issue with my truck
Not the only reason, but maybe the most overlooked.
Excellent informative video, thanks.
Thanks for the comment.
I got a 2002 ford Taurus and its idling rough when I start or come to a stop sign or light; also when just starting the motor and haven't even put it in gear, it wants to die.....my pcv valve is located in a different location. can you advise me on if this could be or what i'm actually lookin for when I try to diagnosis my problem
Wayne Lewis pull off the pcv hose and take a look at it - You need to search for the engine that you have
Great video of the problem thanks for your help
Thanks for commenting
Good Job. Can u help me out with the same problem on my Daughters 2008 Nissan Rouge SL AWD 2.5 L Engine ?
There is a vacuum diagram sticker located under your hood, usually near the hood latch or top of the radiator. You can also do a search for "2008 Nissan 2.5L vacuum line diagram"
When looking for a leak, the most common area are cracks and splits at the ends, where they are connected , due to more heat in that area, or even a hose that has been disconnected. Another common area is anywhere that a hose is very close to the heat of the engine, which is usually a place that is the hardest to get to.
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus with a DOHC 24 valve engine that runs rough. I replaced the engine with another engine because the valves burnt out and this engine is doing the same thing I am having two cylinders not firing. I told my nephew who is working on it that I think it could be the computer. So could you or someone please help me with this problem thank you
Really Gd information ppl always seem to foget the basic
Thanks for the comment.
A mechanic told me it was running rough because of a bad throttle body, it was a common problem, about $250 - $300. What bullshit! Thanks so kindly, I will try this first & if it works I'm gonna be pissed (but happy)! LOL
if it is a bad throttle body due to being clogged up, as is not uncommon, you can clean it with Throttle Body Cleaner. if it is really caked up, and the cleaner does not work on its own, then you may be able to break it loose with a long screwdriver, or if not, you will need to take the throttle body off of the car, and clean it, which does not take that long. There are ports that get blocked, that will not allow it to work properly, so you may need something like a piece of solid wire to clean it out.
Good vid you hit the nail good job
Thanks, I appreciate the support.
Going to give this a try
Did it work?
Great video
Thanks for the comment
Wonderful thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Thankyou so much for this video, kept me from buying a different car, post an adress so i can send a few$
Hey Brian, Thank you so much for the offer. I have thought of starting a patreon account, and may do so someday.
Where do I buy that tube from?? What stores? My 2001 ford taurus is doing the same thing.I'm going to give this a try! Hope I can do it....
kimberly bell it is called an "Emission Hose" and you can find one at auto part stores, and even Walmart. They might not have the exact fit in stock, but you can find one like I did that has the same inside measurement. The one I found that fit was at PepBoys, and was actually for a Chrysler.
Awesome job! Great video, thanks man!
Thanks for leaving the comment. It is appreciated.
Good job 👍
Thanks for the comment
Great video.. Thanks the help
Thanks for the comment
I tried buying the parts in MN and one guy was nice and gave me a mechanic number for a good guy. But no other mechanics will work on it and always give me a high quote. And their short and rude. The auto place said he couldn't say what tube it was and I said a emissions hose. Ugh just a girl trying to fix her Cadillac it's my only car. I could cry:/
You might also just go to a couple small wrecking yards, and they might help you find the disconnected or leaking vacuum hose for a relatively small cash payment. If not, there will surely be a lot of shade tree mechanics that go in and out of wrecking yards, that might also be willing to help.
Thank you, I will check this out....my problem as well
Good luck finding the problem.
@@MrDidrill So over the weekend I got touch feely with my cars hoses looking for a vacuum leak....I actually could hear it hissing, I found some tiny holes on the intake manifold, right where the other side of the pcv hose goes into the manifold. My budgets tight so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and slapped some JB Weld on it!! Doesn't stall anymore, idols smoother but I still had a hissing, I found one more hole hidden behind another hose, so I fixed that one today!! 😉....but that means I may have a bigger problem with my catalytic converter causing those holes in the first place.😔
I love JB Weld. used it recently to repair a water leak in my main line, which was much easier that cutting it out. Not sure how a catalytic converter could cause leaks, but maybe some catalytic converter cleaner would work. I use the "solder-it catalytic converter", and it prevented me from needing to change the catalytic converter, and made the previous failed smog test pass with almost no pollutants.
@@MrDidrill Apparently I have 3 Cats, 2 up in front close to the manifold and the one towards the back. I reset the codes it was sending out, with the manifold leaking it had several different codes going off. So I'll wait to see if it comes back on and go from there. I just don't know what caused those holes other than extreme heat. And my Dad always used JB Weld, he taught me a great deal about cars...which is why I landed a job as a Parts Manager for mainly Forklifts, but other industrial units as well.😉
@@kimba23999 Don't worry about multiple codes, as a vacuum leak can cause many different problems, and all of the related codes will go away when the leak is fixed.
Where would that be located on a 1990 cavalier with a 3.1 liter engine? I have the same issue
Look at all of the vacuum hoses and the ends for cracking. There should be a diagram sticker of them on under the hood.
Yes there is, I checked everything and I even clean the throttle. But when I checked the OBDS1 diagnostic system it game be the code 44
@@BlitzGiita A vacuum leak can cause this code, but if you are sure that the hoses are all alright, then it is most likely an oxygen sensor. See repairpal.com/gm-obd-code-44
do you know on the EGR valve on the 1999 Ford Taurus double overhead cam V6 best model if it takes two gaskets are one gasket.... your help is muchly appreciated
Find out if yours is the S model or the U model, if it is the S model yes it has two gaskets.
I'll try to see if this fixes the problem on my 2007 Peugeot 206.
Some vacuum leaks are hard to find, but very common.
I replaced the IAC valve on my 01 Taurus because I thought it was the cause of my car stalling during idling, especially when it's really hot out. It did not run rough, it just sputtered and stalled. The next day after the new IAC, it started to surge and idle high when coming to a stop sign. My mechanic replaced the PCV valve and hose to hopefully fix the stalling in hot weather. He told me the IAC I put on must be bad and sticking, so I should return it. I did and replaced it with another new one (Borg Warner from OReilly's) The problem persisted. I don't think the first one was bad. I should have kept my old IAC. The fuel pressure was OK when my mechanic checked. Any thoughts on why it's suddenly doing this?
If the check engine is not on, then it could be the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) needs cleaning. It is easy to do, but only use "Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner". as it is very sensitive and expensive. Be careful not to break the fragile sensor or touch it with your fingers. There are a lot of videos on how to do it. Here is one by Scotty Kilmer to get you started Cleaning A Mass Air Flow Sensor To Stop Hesitation
nice repair tip
AdirondackNY It is always better to check the cheapest stuff first.
I couldn't even find pcv valve before. thanks
Thanks for the post.
Great job
Thanks for the comment.
Im having a similar issue with my 2000 mercury sable. It runs rough and the rpm isn't stable (it revs up a little over 1rpm, then sputters below 500 before dying) It mostly happens on a cold start and dies in park but warming the car up sorta stabilizes it. but its still sort of shaky. Im trying to check the vacuum lines but I dont understand the diagram sheets for my car.
mechanics have cleaned the throttle body and replaced spark plugs and my EGR valve but that only seemed to lessen the issue a little, not fix it, because my car goes right back to misbehaving soon after.
I do think it's a hose problem because I can hear a sucking/blowing sound when i lean close to my EGR valve. the sound can be heard when im driving and i put my foot on the accelerator, but its prominent on the passenger side. I just dont know where to look. its hard to track with the engine on.
does this video apply to my car too? or where should I begin to look? im trying to get into DIY because I feel like mechanics are just giving me the run around
The car in the video is a Ford Taurus, which is identical to a Mercury Sable, so your vacuum leak would most likely be in the same place, if you have the same engine. Otherwise, just start by taking off the air cleaner and intake and look and feel around for the vacuum hoses. Sometimes there is one between the firewall and the Carburetor, which is hard to find with the air cleaner on.
Thanks. For making these. Videos. Thay. Work
Thanks for the comment.
good job .
Thank you for the comment.
Well done !
Thanks for the comment
Going to try thx
hope it works for you
1988 Lincoln town 4 ltr car stalls cold and hot ,battery goes dead also alternator testng new regulator ,fuses all good heat gage flickers some times when heater speed incresed ?
I had an '88 Lincoln LSC 5.0 and some electrical gremlins disappeared after replacing the alternator. Stalling might be from a loose or leaky vacuum line.
Did you find the problem yet?
I have a 05 ford Taurus se that stall while u driving is this caused by a bad transmission or a bad torque converter
Probably the Transmission.
Good info sir! Thanks!
I appreciate you taking the time to post your comment.
Thank you. Great video.