Laser Rotary Showdown & Comparison - Which is right for you?
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2022
- Mad Moose Labs is comparing some of the most common laser rotaries on the market helping you find the best one for you!
** Update 02/08/2022 **
Apparently with the Rotoboss two of my wires were mixed up and it does not require you to mirror the image.
These are not sponsored links
RotoBoss by JER Customs - rotaryattachments.com/shop-2/...
PiBurn by Lens Digital - www.lensdigital.com/home/?pro...
HM Laser - www.holgamods.com/holgamods/L...
Chuck Rotary - www.cloudraylaser.com/product...
Chinese Roller Style - www.cloudraylaser.com/product...
Hotdog Style - www.cloudraylaser.com/product...
#laser #madmooselabs #rotaryshowdown - Розваги
Hi Travis! Amazing job on the video, love your level of production and detailed overview of each rotary! Just wanted to mention that those feet on PiBurn are actually magnetic, we put very strong N52 neodymium magnets inside and there's a cork pad on the bottom too for better friction. Also we recently switched to all metal feet, so no more 3D printed feet :) I apologize for the loose carriage, those do occasional get loose in shipping, however adjustment is quick by turning of the eccentric spacer on one of the v-wheels. We even started including wrench for that. On the clamp, yes you are correct it makes a nose when spring rubs against screw, but adding Teflon tube will prevent screw from getting screwed in deeper and that will unfortunately break tension adjustability. Good idea tho, we'll try to think of something, maybe some kind of material that strong and can also compress. Really appreciate all your feedback and constructive criticism!
This is the best side by side comparison of the rotary options I have seen so far. Why you haven't done more videos on laser related topics I don't know!!
Great review video, lots of good information and a great resource for the community. However, I do want to point out that soldered stripped ends on wires are not in fact better than crimped on ferrules when being used in screw down connectors. Ferrules are specifically designed for screw down clamping. The Ferrule actually holds all the wires together and the pressure from screw is taken by the ferrule. Where tinned wires can separate upon clamping pressure from the tip of the screw. Additionally, when removed from a screw down clamp, many times, a tinned wire will actually have broken conductors reducing their rated carrying capacity. Screw down terminals? Always use ferrules. Keep up the great work on the videos!
This is 100% correct. Also, I have been told that tinned wired are NOT to be used in screw down connections. I learned this long ago the hard way after tinning a bunch of wires for SATCOM equipment and the electrical engineer on the job made me cut them all and redo it.
Having used a trotec laser professionally for the last two years, your cons list of the chuck style rotary needs revision. There are better options. Chuck style but with shallow cones for top and bottom and spring pressure to keep the piece in place is the best option in my opinion. It works on all sorts of shapes, it is even easier to change pieces and get going again, and it still has the advantage of adjustable angles. I wouldn't use anything else if I could help it.
Can you give us newbs a recommendation for one that has the characteristics you’ve described?
Appreciate your help in advance!
@@muchachogrande2019 well the kind I said in that comment is what trotec has but I've been looking around and I think something similar can be made to work with any chuck style rotary. You would probably need to measure the spindle of yours to make one and a 3d printer or some kind of milling setup to make attachments for it but I haven't seen one yet that couldn't have cones fitted in some way.
@@MegaDman42 I have an ender 3 and a falcon 2 22 watt so I’ve got the beginnings of being able to maybe make something. I’ve been looking into the XTool RA2 Pro , but idk if it’s compatible with the falcon 2 since it mentions only that it should be compatible with most open frame lasers. If that’s not compatible then I’d probably start with the creality rotary kit pro since I know it’s compatible.
Do you think one of those would be a good place to start? And if so do you think the xtool is better than the creality or is it close enough that I should just go for the creality that I know for sure is compatible?
Again I sincerely appreciate your advice and input, fellow makers are such a friendly community that I’m so stoked to be slowly and gradually joining.
I would love to know what kind you're talking about I never seen any chuck rotary that had those features
@@dennybaker6264 I was working with a couple of Trotec Speedy 400 machines, so for sure Trotec makes one like that. I think xtool makes one similar, maybe not with the cones but probably with spindles on the ends you could 3d print attachments to give that functionality for.
i have a Roland LV 290 do these rotaries work on my laser?
Is their one Compatible with laserpro explorer
Mad Moose Labs great video. any thoughts on the Mansfield Customs unit that is comparable to PiBurn and RotoBoss?
I've heard good things about the Mansfield. I just purchased one and awaiting its arrival. I'm hoping it performs as well for me as it has done for others.
Is the end clamp removable on either of these? for engraving something that has both ends closed up?
Yes ours does
My chuck rotary is way more secure and flexible than roller, little bit of tooling such as acrylic disk diameter of beer stein and small hole for centering (you have a laser right?). Leveling is not that difficult but range is limited.
How is wiring to 5 pin laser like old model of thinder
I seen they have newer styles now where you can adjust the tilt 180° I think that should open up the range on what you can do
Sorry but you are dead wrong about ferrules. Wires should NEVER be tinned and put into screw terminals. That is exactly the purpose of ferrules. In North America we typically do not use ferrules, but wires should NOT be tinned, they should go into the terminal with BARE ENDS. Tinning the wires is a recipe for a bad connection, failure, or fire.