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Thanks for the detailed video. Do any of the rotary units shown work with epilog lasers?

i have a Roland LV 290 do these rotaries work on my laser?

Sorry but you are dead wrong about ferrules. Wires should NEVER be tinned and put into screw terminals. That is exactly the purpose of ferrules. In North America we typically do not use ferrules, but wires should NOT be tinned, they should go into the terminal with BARE ENDS. Tinning the wires is a recipe for a bad connection, failure, or fire.

Having used a trotec laser professionally for the last two years, your cons list of the chuck style rotary needs revision. There are better options. Chuck style but with shallow cones for top and bottom and spring pressure to keep the piece in place is the best option in my opinion. It works on all sorts of shapes, it is even easier to change pieces and get going again, and it still has the advantage of adjustable angles. I wouldn't use anything else if I could help it.

Mad Moose Labs great video. any thoughts on the Mansfield Customs unit that is comparable to PiBurn and RotoBoss?

My chuck rotary is way more secure and flexible than roller, little bit of tooling such as acrylic disk diameter of beer stein and small hole for centering (you have a laser right?). Leveling is not that difficult but range is limited.

This is the best side by side comparison of the rotary options I have seen so far. Why you haven't done more videos on laser related topics I don't know!!

Is the end clamp removable on either of these? for engraving something that has both ends closed up?

Is their one Compatible with laserpro explorer

Great review video, lots of good information and a great resource for the community. However, I do want to point out that soldered stripped ends on wires are not in fact better than crimped on ferrules when being used in screw down connectors. Ferrules are specifically designed for screw down clamping. The Ferrule actually holds all the wires together and the pressure from screw is taken by the ferrule. Where tinned wires can separate upon clamping pressure from the tip of the screw. Additionally, when removed from a screw down clamp, many times, a tinned wire will actually have broken conductors reducing their rated carrying capacity. Screw down terminals? Always use ferrules. Keep up the great work on the videos!

Do unopened lenses degrade as well? I"d like to keep some spares on hand.

Thank you Travis For this amazing video and the time it took to do it. I just want to take a min to address some information put out to clarify and correct. Thank you for the critique, feedback and suggestions. Some of them are currently in work and will be updated soon and will give consideration the others. First and foremost the RotoBoss line of rotaries consists of 3 different rotaries and all are extremely different in Cost respective to which one it is and what they do. Your Rotary is the RotoBoss JR and is the most common type (single side lift) on the market today. The Most expensive one you mention is the RotoBoss with dual lifts and more versatility. Here is the difference and more about them. ua-cam.com/video/KnjNhZg064k/v-deo.html - The 7 Pin Rotaries do not require Mirroring with the motor to the left when in the laser. ( old 5 pins were setup different and no longer made by Thunder). - The slave wheel assembly can easily slide side to side with lateral pressure and fine tuned with the knob. - The Rotary comes with two clamp wheels specifically for deep water bottles and extra tension as needed. - The Heel Plate is to limit movement and not intended to ride on the back of the cup and should have about 2mm gap to prevent binding. - The adjustment wheels are low profile to prevent getting hit by the head with movement and can be adjusted as needed or desired to raise it up higher, also the cut out on the top cap is designed to limit an obstruction. - The Rotary setup in the Manual is the Correct way to setup this rotary to mitigate any changes between cups. It is setup to allow the use of anything from a shot glass to a 30oz tumbler with little no changes required. These rotaries do not use the same setup as others for the reason mentioned above. By the End of Feb 2022 the new videos and manual info will be updated on all sites and my UA-cam page. Thanks again for this video review and feedback. If anyone has any questions on this or anything else related to the RotoBoss line of Rotaries please feel free to email anytime at Rotoboss@outlook.com

Hi Travis! Amazing job on the video, love your level of production and detailed overview of each rotary! Just wanted to mention that those feet on PiBurn are actually magnetic, we put very strong N52 neodymium magnets inside and there's a cork pad on the bottom too for better friction. Also we recently switched to all metal feet, so no more 3D printed feet :) I apologize for the loose carriage, those do occasional get loose in shipping, however adjustment is quick by turning of the eccentric spacer on one of the v-wheels. We even started including wrench for that. On the clamp, yes you are correct it makes a nose when spring rubs against screw, but adding Teflon tube will prevent screw from getting screwed in deeper and that will unfortunately break tension adjustability. Good idea tho, we'll try to think of something, maybe some kind of material that strong and can also compress. Really appreciate all your feedback and constructive criticism!

FYI - the Wal Mart number for the coasters in the spreadsheet - no Bueno - I tried the number and slate coasters cheapest option was over the price you had. I don't know if Wally World doesn't carry them any more but I do know ya can find slate coasters on Amazon for about $20 for 12 - don't know the quality, Thinking about ordering some and give it a try. BTW - I can't wait for the other videos.