@@FurtherFabrication And now after I praised your simplicity I've spent the last hour figuring out ways I might over-engineer this thing! :) I think I may try having another stepper driver as you suggested in description but add a switch between Y and Rotary drivers.
Since you mentioned it I’d love to see you do a 3D printer and maybe even a CNC machine build similar to the depth and detail of your laser cutter build which is a fantastic resource.
Excellent video and plans! Used parts from an old 3d printer and your plans and am now just waiting on the bearings and 8mm pulleys. Thanks for sharing!
As always great video, I just have a little tip, When you use a roller rotary in light burn the Object Dia and Circumference Don't need to be set. The outside surface moves at the same rate as the rollers. They are only used for a Chuck style rotary, where the outside Circumference changes depending on the diameter.
But the circumference will be different for different objects. The can of soup had a different diameter than the water bottle so they are going to need the diameter specific to the object being engraved. If all you are doing is the same size water bottle over and over, sure you won't need to change it but in this case he did.
@@cacaokingdom3122 yes the circumference will be different, but when lightburn is in roller mode for the Rotary it does not use the values in the circumference box or object diameter. it only uses the roller dia and the mm per rotation. further details about this can be found on the lightburn forum if you doubt me.
Awesome! Just saw you commenting the other day that you hadn't tried 4th axis before and I was going to offer to lend you mine! (I haven't used it yet). Now you've gone and make your own :)
I wish I could just bodge things together like you. Until you made a goof with putting the belts in, I wasn't sure if you are human. Good to know you are. I think. Great work!!
Been looking for west for a long time. Thank you. I’ll try building the Roto when you build I like it. I’ll be like I said the other stuff by love video
Have you a source for a permanent loop belt? I have yet to manage to get one to last much past getting ready to use it. I have used rubber bands to prove that it works but not sure that they are keeping the right timing for obvious reasons. Thanks in Advance for your time and information. I built mine through use of my 3-D printer and created the same plates you did on the CNC.
2:06 I wonder if you could layer the smooth side of another bit of belt material onto the back, overlapping the joint with more CA glue. There's enough clearance around the pulleys, I just wonder if it wouldn't flex right.
Hi there, I've been really enjoying my Y-400 -- I was wondering if you had any problems between Lightburn and the Ruida when you were getting your rotary up and running? I'm using an off the shelf Genmitsu and I can move the rotary manually with the Y-axis jog buttons, and framing seems to work but when try to run a file, nothing happens -- no movement and no laser fire, no errors. If I turn off Enable Rotary in Lightburn and run the job, it does move and fire. I'm going to look for support on the Lightburn Forums but just wondering if that came up with you. Cheers!
This is great, thanks for sharing! I just bought the plans and details for the y1200 off your site a week or two ago and was in the process of sourcing parts, and the only thing i was hung up on was doing a rotary. Seriously perfect timing, I appreciate the hard work you do, you make it look easy and love your style and twist on things. Keep up the great work! Side question, what are the chances of you sharing your build experience on your 3d printer?
Glad I could help! Unfortunately that particular 3d printer got scrapped for parts in about 2015, but I've got lots of good stories to tell about building 3d printers so I'll see what I can do.
Maby there is a Good reason but can you make the Rotary Tool along the Y axis instead for more series production? example: 5 tumblers in a row and less manual interaction. Love your channel // Nick
Hi I bought the stepper motor using your link. Is it normal for the motor to run hot? I mean it's hot to the point I can't touch it for longer than a second. Thanks!
I see you used NEMA 17, and I have several on hand, but my 100W OMTech laser likely has a different stepper, perhaps (apparently?) a NEMA 23. I am guessing that for ease of switching in and out (without having to adjust the current going to power the stepper), I would need to match the rotary's stepper to what is in the laser machine for its Y axis. Can anyone confirm what stepper is in a 100W OMTech laser?
This is so awesome mate however, it seems like motor model is missing unless I missed it. I believe I can pull this together but without the motor's information now I have doubt. Please help. Thanks for your time!
Looks good! Can you consider making a video, or posting screen shots, of the Ruida manufactory settings you have? I’m getting issues with direction, speed, and distance and can’t quite figure it out.
Thanks. I've got a full set of screenshots of starter settings in the build guide on my website. Apart from that it really is just a lot of trial and error (mostly error haha)
good question, sorry, I should have explained better! you can buy manufactured closed loop belts of varies sizes, I've got a link for the right sized one down in the description
@@FurtherFabrication hi, i finish mine but cant succefully engrave, wich value i use as steps per rotation? default com 360 but it nver stop .. pls helpme
Whats the V of your stepper motor? Have tried this assembly however i realised my lasers motor is 24v and the motor i purchased from Jaycar is 12v. Any idea whre can i purchase 24v motor here in nz?
If I understand this correctly, the Y-stepper driver in your setup is driving two separate motors and is set to 4.2A as a result, but the rotary stepper is rated at 2A. Is that creating heat issues? I could be confused about this. Also, did you leave the second Y-stepper motor plugged in? I love your content sir!
Good spotting! I didn't change the settings from the driver so the single stepper on the rotary is running hotter, which is fine if you're just running a few jobs, but you would want to flip the switches on the driver to a lower output if you were running it for long periods. Both my Y motors output from that one plug. Thanks!
are you using a ruida controller? I've tried getting the rotary axis working and my research turned up that you dont use the "rotary" option in the software and just replace the axis. otherwise the axis go wacko kind of....
Yeah it's the ruida (sorry totally forgot to mention that haha), the rotary option seemed to be working well in the LightBurn software, if you just ran it as a 'normal' axis you'd have to calculate the steps per mm for the rotation manually, which might be more of a pain
Unfortunately there isn't a single fixed answer for what a laser can cut through given it's power output, as a number of other factors will play. Mainly material type, lens focal length and air/gas assist. For example a 40w Laser is comfortable cutting 3mm thick acrylic but if you go really slow or even do multiple passes at full power you can cut thicker pieces but the cut quality starts to suffer and it takes ages.
Those pieces were from my 2nd build back in 2014, I scrapped it for parts to build the 3rd one...now I'm currently on my 4th printer. I'll put together a story about them sometime!
Hi, I built the y1200 Using Lightburn 9.22 Ruida controller 6445G with 15.01.22 firmware. I just hooked up an rotary using a 3PDT switch to the Y axis and started to run test. When I enable rotary in lightburn (and verify on controller) I can jog and run frame on design and rotary moves fine. However when I hit start, nothing happens. Machine doesn’t move, or engrave and no error on controller. If I disable rotary toggle in lightburn and confirm on controller. Machine starts to engrave with rotary working. Any ideas what is causing the machine not to run when rotary toggle is enabled? I’ve read that this firmware might send rotary to U axis. Can you confirm? Not sure if this is the answer. If it did wouldn’t framing the design also not work for me? If it does go to u axis. Is there any instructions on setting that up? Thank you for your help. Don
This video sold me on your design! To see how well things cut and fit - amazing!
I didn't know you could just plug the stepper straight to the Y axis! it makes total sense!
I like the simplicity of this rotary. I will be giving it a try!
It's not something I intend to use often, so I figured simple was the way to go!
@@FurtherFabrication And now after I praised your simplicity I've spent the last hour figuring out ways I might over-engineer this thing! :) I think I may try having another stepper driver as you suggested in description but add a switch between Y and Rotary drivers.
So cool dude! I'm sure this opens up way more laser cutting opportunities. Good to see new content!
Cheers bro, yeah I def should have made this thing like two years ago haha
Since you mentioned it I’d love to see you do a 3D printer and maybe even a CNC machine build similar to the depth and detail of your laser cutter build which is a fantastic resource.
Thank you so much for sharing this cut file for free.👍
Excellent video and plans! Used parts from an old 3d printer and your plans and am now just waiting on the bearings and 8mm pulleys. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome build. Officially starting my y1200 build today. Can’t wait to get it going.
Good Luck!
@cinemaquad - there is a great facebook group of y400/1200 builders. Mine is up and running and I'm having so much fun! Good luck!
Did you know the rough cost prior to buying the plans?
Very lovely and simple classic design, will give it a trial. I will like to see video on how you make the screws bed in your laser. Thanks
This is amazing! Far better than the $800/unit they are stealing from us for a piece of junk rotary! Thank you.
Very cool project. Congratulations, It works really well. Cheers, Aaron.
thanks for the files. I have everything I need to make it.
Thanks so much for sharing! This was on my wish list for your next video!
No worries!
As always great video, I just have a little tip,
When you use a roller rotary in light burn the Object Dia and Circumference Don't need to be set. The outside surface moves at the same rate as the rollers.
They are only used for a Chuck style rotary, where the outside Circumference changes depending on the diameter.
But the circumference will be different for different objects. The can of soup had a different diameter than the water bottle so they are going to need the diameter specific to the object being engraved. If all you are doing is the same size water bottle over and over, sure you won't need to change it but in this case he did.
@@cacaokingdom3122 yes the circumference will be different, but when lightburn is in roller mode for the Rotary it does not use the values in the circumference box or object diameter. it only uses the roller dia and the mm per rotation.
further details about this can be found on the lightburn forum if you doubt me.
Thanks. I'll give the files a look and try iy
Awesome! Just saw you commenting the other day that you hadn't tried 4th axis before and I was going to offer to lend you mine! (I haven't used it yet). Now you've gone and make your own :)
haha cheers anyway, yeah I'd been meaning to try it for like the last year
I wish I could just bodge things together like you. Until you made a goof with putting the belts in, I wasn't sure if you are human. Good to know you are. I think. Great work!!
sweet build! Thank you
Been looking for west for a long time. Thank you. I’ll try building the Roto when you build I like it. I’ll be like I said the other stuff by love video
Have you a source for a permanent loop belt? I have yet to manage to get one to last much past getting ready to use it. I have used rubber bands to prove that it works but not sure that they are keeping the right timing for obvious reasons. Thanks in Advance for your time and information. I built mine through use of my 3-D printer and created the same plates you did on the CNC.
don't make a straight cut through the belt but a long diagonal so the ends overlap. This will become a persistent connection when using flexible glue.
As usual, nicely done mate.
cheers mate
Excelente, thank you very much friend, congratulations for your excellent work
Just amazing! The best rotary I've seen yet! Thanks for the plans, can't wait to share the build! #startsourcingpartstomorrow
Great attachment, man.
thank you for sharing and thank you for the files.
2:06 I wonder if you could layer the smooth side of another bit of belt material onto the back, overlapping the joint with more CA glue. There's enough clearance around the pulleys, I just wonder if it wouldn't flex right.
Awesome mate, thanks for your creativity ;)
That looks like fun!
super nice mate. thanks for sharing
cheers, you're welcome
do you have any issues with the drive 0-rings moving the item forward or backwards? Thank you
has you some video of the lightburn setup?
HI, Can u pls suggest how can we add inkjet single color module for marking on fabric just like mimo lasers...?
awesome work and nice video
for some reason the neje master 2s plus works with the rotary but only when the rotary settings is unchecked.
Thinking of using the pro rotation tool from D1 company. You think That should work ?
So is the Y axis plugged into Y and the X axis plugged into X? Because in the build Y is plugged into X and X is plugged into Y
very nice what tolerance did you use to cut the acrylic for the bearings to fit tight?
Hi there, I've been really enjoying my Y-400 -- I was wondering if you had any problems between Lightburn and the Ruida when you were getting your rotary up and running? I'm using an off the shelf Genmitsu and I can move the rotary manually with the Y-axis jog buttons, and framing seems to work but when try to run a file, nothing happens -- no movement and no laser fire, no errors. If I turn off Enable Rotary in Lightburn and run the job, it does move and fire. I'm going to look for support on the Lightburn Forums but just wondering if that came up with you. Cheers!
NICE WORK...
This is great, thanks for sharing! I just bought the plans and details for the y1200 off your site a week or two ago and was in the process of sourcing parts, and the only thing i was hung up on was doing a rotary. Seriously perfect timing, I appreciate the hard work you do, you make it look easy and love your style and twist on things. Keep up the great work! Side question, what are the chances of you sharing your build experience on your 3d printer?
Glad I could help!
Unfortunately that particular 3d printer got scrapped for parts in about 2015, but I've got lots of good stories to tell about building 3d printers so I'll see what I can do.
@@FurtherFabrication That sounds great! I'm always happy for any content you are willing to share. Thanks again!
Maby there is a Good reason but can you make the Rotary Tool along the Y axis instead for more series production? example: 5 tumblers in a row and less manual interaction. Love your channel // Nick
Hi I bought the stepper motor using your link. Is it normal for the motor to run hot? I mean it's hot to the point I can't touch it for longer than a second. Thanks!
Great job 👏🏻
What is the name of program please?!
Great job
Hy there, please share some other motors...other compatible motors that are on the market....i can't find this one mentioned by you. Thx
I see you used NEMA 17, and I have several on hand, but my 100W OMTech laser likely has a different stepper, perhaps (apparently?) a NEMA 23. I am guessing that for ease of switching in and out (without having to adjust the current going to power the stepper), I would need to match the rotary's stepper to what is in the laser machine for its Y axis. Can anyone confirm what stepper is in a 100W OMTech laser?
great video! is there another alternative to the Linear Rail?
Thank you very much!
That's elegant!
Could this fixture work with a Universal Laser System? The OEM rotary is way out of budget for my 20 year old machine
hello how did you wire this up? im having trouble with thr motor sometimes spinning sometimes doesnt
This is so awesome mate however, it seems like motor model is missing unless I missed it. I believe I can pull this together but without the motor's information now I have doubt. Please help. Thanks for your time!
Sorry you're totally right, I forgot to add the motor! I've put a link in the description now
💪 "own branded Beans" 💪
that's Bean my real goal all along..
So the bearings cannot be press fitted in acrylic?
did you use a NEMA 17 stepper?
do you think his could work with a snapmaker 2.0 a350????????????????? please help
How can I find out the correct steps per rotation ?? When I dont have a DIY Co2 Laser ?
Looks good! Can you consider making a video, or posting screen shots, of the Ruida manufactory settings you have? I’m getting issues with direction, speed, and distance and can’t quite figure it out.
Thanks. I've got a full set of screenshots of starter settings in the build guide on my website. Apart from that it really is just a lot of trial and error (mostly error haha)
@@FurtherFabrication looked through the build guide and don’t see anything. Working off v1.03 for the Y-1200.
Super cool. Wish I could hook this up to a laser script machine :(
I have built this rotary, do i have to modify the stepper driver setup to run it? I have larger motor for my Y axis, so far the driver is set to 2,5A
i will begin tomorrow doing this,but in wood
What software u used I want software to operate my 5 axis laser machine help help
nice work
thanks
what is the laser did you use on this video? what is the brand of it? or did you make it?
How would you "actually" go about connecting the belt together?
good question, sorry, I should have explained better! you can buy manufactured closed loop belts of varies sizes, I've got a link for the right sized one down in the description
@@FurtherFabrication hi, i finish mine but cant succefully engrave, wich value i use as steps per rotation? default com 360 but it nver stop .. pls helpme
Não falo em inglês porem estou aprendendo muito. Muito bom parabéns!
Whats the V of your stepper motor? Have tried this assembly however i realised my lasers motor is 24v and the motor i purchased from Jaycar is 12v. Any idea whre can i purchase 24v motor here in nz?
Looks great! Would I be right to assume that's a nema 17 motor?
yup, sorry I forgot to mention!
Nice ... But I don't have Laser Cutter
godamn your awsome man
I am very much looking forward to the day I can build my own machine from your plans, just need to win lotto to get out of debt and afford it. lol
lol, or go into more debt because LASERS!
@@FurtherFabrication That too.
Real nice
If I understand this correctly, the Y-stepper driver in your setup is driving two separate motors and is set to 4.2A as a result, but the rotary stepper is rated at 2A. Is that creating heat issues? I could be confused about this.
Also, did you leave the second Y-stepper motor plugged in?
I love your content sir!
Good spotting! I didn't change the settings from the driver so the single stepper on the rotary is running hotter, which is fine if you're just running a few jobs, but you would want to flip the switches on the driver to a lower output if you were running it for long periods.
Both my Y motors output from that one plug.
Thanks!
are you using a ruida controller? I've tried getting the rotary axis working and my research turned up that you dont use the "rotary" option in the software and just replace the axis. otherwise the axis go wacko kind of....
Yeah it's the ruida (sorry totally forgot to mention that haha), the rotary option seemed to be working well in the LightBurn software, if you just ran it as a 'normal' axis you'd have to calculate the steps per mm for the rotation manually, which might be more of a pain
what version of lightburn are you using to have this rotary option? thank you
It's the latest one, I think there was an update last week
Is there a good resource for the cut capability of these lasers? As far as thicknesses, etc. the charts I’ve found don’t seem consistent.
Unfortunately there isn't a single fixed answer for what a laser can cut through given it's power output, as a number of other factors will play.
Mainly material type, lens focal length and air/gas assist.
For example a 40w Laser is comfortable cutting 3mm thick acrylic but if you go really slow or even do multiple passes at full power you can cut thicker pieces but the cut quality starts to suffer and it takes ages.
@@FurtherFabrication thank you for the reply! I’ll hearing just get the biggest tube you can afford and do some testing and hope for the best haha.
@@snowgoer540 Yep, unless you want to do fine low-level engraving (some of the larger tubes won't turn on until at a reasonably high power)
I am the machine operator😂
Some details about the 3d printer build? :-)
Those pieces were from my 2nd build back in 2014, I scrapped it for parts to build the 3rd one...now I'm currently on my 4th printer. I'll put together a story about them sometime!
Awesome! Is there anyone converted the cut-file to a STL file? Would like to print it =)
I did it in Fusion 360
what is your software?
👍🏻👍🏻
👍
hello, no need to use masking paper
Thanks, I though it was a bit overkill haha
@@FurtherFabrication I use paper on the wood, the smoke stains the wood
Are you no longer responding to people about this project?
Hi, I built the y1200
Using Lightburn 9.22
Ruida controller 6445G with 15.01.22 firmware.
I just hooked up an rotary using a 3PDT switch to the Y axis and started to run test. When I enable rotary in lightburn (and verify on controller) I can jog and run frame on design and rotary moves fine. However when I hit start, nothing happens. Machine doesn’t move, or engrave and no error on controller. If I disable rotary toggle in lightburn and confirm on controller. Machine starts to engrave with rotary working. Any ideas what is causing the machine not to run when rotary toggle is enabled?
I’ve read that this firmware might send rotary to U axis. Can you confirm? Not sure if this is the answer. If it did wouldn’t framing the design also not work for me?
If it does go to u axis. Is there any instructions on setting that up?
Thank you for your help.
Don
👌👊
He wouldn’t have any puzzle G code for a puzzle with you to 20x20 or a24x24
Why do I need to give you a credit card to download free files?
don't worry you don't, as the description says, you can just leave it blank. It's just the same website form that's used for the payed stuff as well.
@@FurtherFabrication found that. Thanks. Love the laser build
E-STOP .... oh shit :D :D :D
I have sent a few email, a few facebook messages, trying to ask you a few questions
Show. + 1 subscriber - BRAZIL
GEORGİA 🇬🇪🇬🇪🇬🇪🇬🇪
Been over a year since you built that and still have tape labels for the buttons. For gods sake engrave some metal labels. 🤣
+
So cool dude! I'm sure this opens up way more laser cutting opportunities. Good to see new content!
nice work