ZF5HP19 Disassembly
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лис 2021
- 2005 BMW Z4
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans...
ATSG: atsg.com/
ATRA: www.atra.com/
Fatsco: www.fatsco.net/online-store
Jaggi"s: www.jaggiimport.com/home.html
Slauson's: www.slauson-transmissionparts...
Standard Transmission & Gear: standardtransmission.com/
Wade's: www.wadetransmission.com/parts/
Bishop's: www.bishopengine.com/ - Авто та транспорт
Always astonishing to watch your content . You are a walking talking service manual
Thank You
I like your simplicity
Thanks
Thank you for your time and knowledge.
Any time, thanks for watching.
You are awesome Mr. Tom, thank you for your valuable information.
Thanks for watching.
Much appreciated
Good job
Thanks
Wow
Thanks for watching.
What is the part number for the pump o-ring and the pump housing to the case O-ring
129311 & 129381A from Transtar.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission appreciate you Tom
On a 1999 Porsche boxster with a ZF5, hp why would it suddenly decide to push out the front seal? Happened after guessing 30,000 after rebuild, then again in 50 miles after putting a new seal in. Torque converter like new, so is the bushing, vent on top and relief hole between bushing and seal clear. Shifts fine
Thanks for any advice you can give
There is a ring that goes between the seal and the pump body. Did you make sure and put it back? Other things would be warped flywheel, missing line up dowels in the engine block or restricted cooler flow.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
The ring is in. Made sure coolant is going through heat exchanger By pushing out I mean the seal falls out. I’m sure it was installed correctly, new ones twice.
After two 25 mile test runs
What brand seal? Try factory one. If it was I would replace the pump body.
How the heck do they remember all the parts putting it back together,
Experience. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting the great video! I did the same rebuild for my BMW E39 530 due to the D-G drum edge exploded. After I replaced with a second-hand D-G drum, gear is slipping on both D or R, BMW scanner showing "3B EGS: Stall Speed (P0720)", car barely moving forward or backward, if I rev it bit more on D, it will go to the limp mode, transmission is on 4th gear locked, the car can slowly rolling up, but will slip into 5th gear if over 2k rev or 40 km/h, once in there, slipping again and no power to move faster. Never able to get reverse woking, tiny power barely moves the car.
Can you give any advice on where the problem could be? I tested lots of electronic connections, solenoids, value body, all the connectors, all seems good. I do hear a bit of whining noise once the car is running on limp mode, hence things may be a mechanical issue rather than an electrical issue. Also changed filter and fluid, speed sensor, and rebuild valve body.
I am planning to take the transmission out of the car again for another disassembly since I got a new after market D-G drum this time.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! If I don't need to take the trans out, that would be much better! Also have a video on inspecting the D-G drum from the bottom of the transmission, see below link:
ua-cam.com/video/m2HTCF6Kglw/v-deo.htmlsi=xWdCio5yr6WhBn4T
I would checkthe pump flow valve to see if it is sticking. Also the pressure regulator valve in the valve body.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Thanks for the quick response! I am kind of suspecting the pump flow valve, seems no pressure is holding up for any gears to engage. When move into any gears (R or D), the rev is actually going up a little, as oppose to going down normally. I will try to see if the valve is still there first, then trying to pull it out while Transmission is still in the car.
I have got an endoscope camera, will try feed it through the Fill-up hole, and see any anything happening inside trans while the car is running. Would the fluid still flowing if the valve is stuck or always open?
Not sure about the pressure regulator valve, I knew there is an upgraded part from Transgo. Been rebuilt the Value body few time, not sure how to tell if the pressure regulator valve is bad, I might have a video on the valve disassembly can show it.
It will dump pressure if stuck. You can look in the bore with the valve removed and you can see the wear if it is worn. Go to Sonnax'swebsite and they will have photos of what it looks like.@@xjjxly
Thank you@@CurmudgeonTransmission! I took the valve body off, the oil pump flow valve seems ok, it travels pretty freely when I pushed it up, it came down slowly. I checked piston, no damage to it. Haven't got chance to open the lower part of the valve body to check pressure regulator valve, will check bore closely this time. Endoscope doesn't really help, one the resolution is too low (640 x 480), secondly the fill plug hole is so far away from the two tubes on the old pump, can't see that far. However I did see the oil flowing, when I have the gear on, the movement is more noticeable.
I had tried a different speed sensor (when I reassemble the transmission, I installed the censor upside down, I thought it might be destroyed, but the new one has the same ohm measure as the replacement), the original orifice pistons, check the plugs and all EDS, MVs.
I will try make a video from the dashboard, to show how the engine revs reacts, it almost seems the engine speed never transfer to the transmission... What I don't understand is the transmission was working even with the broken D-G drum, but after I rebuilt it with new drum and rebuilt kits, none of the gear works, I can only drive with Limp mode and can not go faster than 40 kms/h or 2k rev.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Checked the pressure regulator and the bore, all seems fine. Put the valve body back in the car, add the fluid, still the same issue. Stall sped error when I rev on D.