Surface Primer for Scale Models
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- Опубліковано 17 лют 2018
- This video explains how to achieve the smoothest base or primer coat for scale model construction
For more information about airbrushing scale models, visit Airbrush for Scale Modelers webpage: scale-model-workshop.com/lts4...
Contact: scale-model-workshop.com/lts4...
I just started modeling again after thirty years as I've just retired. I'm a retired engineer and relate the way you explain things technically. I've learned much about airbrushing through your series and wanted to say I appreciate the information. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the acknowledgment.
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Gerald Vincent instablaster :)
@Ellis Douglas thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ellis Douglas It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
Finally, I found the channel I’ve been searching for! You offer the most in-depth, intimate instruction, with your incredible, invaluable insight. It’s insane! Lol Thank you for all the passion and effort, you put into passing your vast knowledge down to modelers, and future generations of modelers. 🙏
Wow! I haven’t seen those old Dupont primer cans since the late 80’s. Anyway, I appreciate the time, research, and subtle humor you put into your videos.
GSI Gunze PS-290 changed my paint life... It is Mr Hobby's version of the TH Iwata fan pattern airbrush, it also comes with a round pattern cap.
For us plebs, on Aliexpress there are 0.5mm Sprayguns that have a listed airconsumption of 35 liters per minute, so might work with our small compressors, haven't gotten one yet, but for 14 USD it might be worth trying.
Also thanks for the primer on primer :)
I have absolutely zero experience with airbrushing, so this video provides loads of essential information. Thanks!
you should take care because airbruses are finicky, it doesnt mean you must have the expensive aribrushes on sale, you need just to realize they can be a pain in the ass
Watching your channel is getting very expensive. I thought $100 for my Paasche was a lot of money. Now you've convinced me I need an Iwata Eclipse G6 - $400!
I did the same thing and boy am I glad! That G6 is amazing. Thanks Paul.
You have no idea how useful this video was. I was struggling A LOT with a 1/4 scale figure that i'm doing, since no matter what airbrush and nozzle size i was using everytime i ended up with a dusty and uneven finish. I got sometime ago a 0.7 nozzle for my Badger 100LG thinking that should do the work but i was so wrong.
I got the GSI Creos PS-290 some days ago and it's really a game changer. Now, i'm getting a smoth surface using a constant and 'full blast' application, just like the 5:11 mark. Thanks a lot!
That was exactly the video I needed to answer several questions I have and I few I didn't know I had.
Thanks once again, Paul. Very informative video, especially about the spray characteristics of the different airbrushes.
Your videos are very informative. Thank you!
With good primer,comes great scale model.Great information here,really appreciated you!
Really enjoy your videos. Thankyou for creating them. I'm just getting back into modelling, so am busy learning through mistakes, but your tips have proved invaluable and allowed me to see where I am heading in developing more advanced techniques.
thanks Mr. Budzik ! that was a very good enlightening !!!!
Excellent. Great audio pleasant for listening
This opened my eyes, as well as the Iwata RG spray gun.
Thank you for this sir, excellent explanation.
This video has outstanding content and structure. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you!
Thanks, a lot of useful information here!
Thank you for the great information.
Another superb presentation on a subject I thought I knew a lot about! Your explanations and demonstrations are so lucid and well thought out. I'm very glad I discovered your videos and website. Now--to figure out which airbrush for priming to get! Thanks.
Wow! Thank you 🙏
Wonderful explanation. Thank you.
Wow. This is the first time i've seen this insight on overspray. It makes so much sense and i'm genuinely enlightened. I've had this rough texture happen to me and I though it was for obvious reasons due to paint thickness, amount of thinner, etc. Never thought it to be because of needle size. I thought going smaller would help me save some money thinking I won't be wasting as much paint. I have been looking at those trigger style airbrushs, would a fan shape spray pattern be helpful?
Thanks
I used to use all lacquer based primers thinned with medium dry lacquer thinner but now started using Badger Stynlrez acrylic urethane on plastics, wood and metal. Really liking it, basically ready to spray out of the bottle but I like to cut it just a little more because I don't like a heavy film. A .77 ( number 3) nozzle works fine on a Paasche H or .55 ( medium size) on a Badger 200 or the same 200 brush with the large nozzle/needle set for that matter. I cut it with just a few drops of alcohol and a few dribbles of airbrush medium to the consistency I like and more importantly what the airbrush likes. I'm using Liquitex airbrush medium to cut my acrylics anyway, but I'm sure Goldens would work as well. Airbrush medium alone gives a little more flow out than I like thus the alcohol blend to speed it up a little bit ( depends on the weather) . This is self leveling primer, over spray is non existent unless you really screw it up bad, hasn't happened to me thus far. If you heat set it or let is sit for 24 hours otherwise, you can spray acrylics, lacquer or enamel right over it. Been using it for about a year now. Oh and no stink lol !
What do you thin it with?
Just use floor wax to thin and add body to your primers/paint. It's an acrylic polyurethane. It's very tough, people walk on it. And it's much cheaper than Goldens and it does the same thing.
Doc; Once again fantastic job. FYI: In Florida I still get Dupont V-3602 S & 70S also RM products, I just touched up my lacquer 67 Vette with it.
Can send you some if need be. Richard
Richard, Thank you for the offer. I have a few questions about what is available there. If you could send be a message from my contact page, email would be better ...paulbudzik.com/contact.html
ok will not try to primer coat with my detail brush... rg3 next on my list! thanks!
Which brand of primer do you use for the spray gun? How much do you put in the can for 1/72 vs 1/48?
Your videos are great - really informative, to the point, and not filled with unscripted ramblings. (I'm not suggesting you use a script, but others who don't often don't seem too sure what they want to say, which is painful to listen to). One comment - in my experience the "dupli-color" brand is absolute crap. It never seems to actually dry - if you apply any sort of solvent on top, even weeks later, it comes straight off. Maybe the primer is OK, but I'm not risking it.
Retired recently and wanted to get back to modeling after a long syntactical of being away from modeling. The kits and materials and detailing have changed drastically . When building, lacquer base paints always had a high propensity to etch the plastic, so I would use the same base paint as model finish to prime. This video helps with a higher understanding of technique but what about the lacquer etching? Plus the viscosity of paint. I assume you take the lacquer and use it to dilute the model paint for spray.? The results you show in the video are excellent. I'd welcome any comment from modelers too. Is the solvent in enamel base paint a lacquer?
To help get a better understanding of paint types and what distinguishes one type from another, I suggest reading over my paint explanation ... paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/paint.html . The lacquer paints sold for hobbies do not contain anywhere near the amount and type of volatile organic compounds found in old school lacquer. The also have a heavy acrylic component so they really just lay on the surface as a coating rather than "bite" into the plastic. The etching that you might have been used to doesn't happen with these paints.
Proprietary thinners for enamel paints are mineral spirits (paint thinner). Generally, they can be thinned with a lacquer thinner, but any leftover paint needs to be discarded.
@@scale-model-workshop thanks so much, this is exactly what what I needed to jump back into the game. Especially the information on the etching I remember lots of sanding and other methods like polishing , which would cause loss of detail. I'm really anxious to use your information and link .
Handily, we have the NAPA colorline primer at work and the finish one in a gallon can. When you use the spray can primer do you decant and spray through a gun? Or spray with the can?
I would decant as you can control the material flow
As another commenter asked, I wonder which brand of primer is your go-to for general application. I for example am finding it difficult to us the Old School Lacquer Primer by TCP Global (1gal of primer with 1gal of acetone). Very thick filler primer. Mixed 1:1 with the acetone through my Iwata LPH 80 I cannot get consistent smooth finish results, no matter distance from subject or altering pressure at the gun from recommended approx 10psi. I get a very dry, rough application finish, sometimes dusty. I've tried altering the acetone mix ratio. So now I'm looking for another solution. I'm painting many larger G-scale train projects, repaints for occasional local hobby store clients. Any advice is appreciated.
Why are you thinning with acetone? You should thinning with a med to high temp, good quality lacquer thinner to slow drying time. And you probably want to thin to one part primer to three parts thinner, or even more. Keep in mind that we are not using the material the way it was intended. We are just looking for improved adhesion. Finally ... the 10 lbs psi is the cap pressure ... it should be 13 to 14 going into the gun. If you want to get a precise read ... use a cap pressure gauge. But LPH guns are not like conventional spray guns so you don't have the freedom to go playing around like you would with something like an Iwata G6.
Any idea why the styrene got wrinkled after spraying a few layers of 1200 Mr Surfacer and after 24 hours another thin layers of lacquer paint MRP? I have painted a car kit model by Revell, the main body came out good but the hood got wrinkled really bad. After striping down the paint I noticed that the styrene got melted into wrinkles not only the paint as I thought.
Just recently been able to wrap my brain around airbrushing properly. So, I was wondering... is it necessary to thin the primer before spraying it through an airbrush??
I'm considering purchasing an airbrush for priming my wargaming miniatures (mostly 28-32mm scale infantry, but some of them [monsters, viehicles] are up to four, five times that), would you say a regular airbrush with 0.4 needle will do? Or should I get one of those mini-spray guns? Planning to use acrylic primer (can't spray lacquers in my apartment).
Assuming I had to thin Finish 1 primer through a mini spray gun, what would work as a reducer? Regular acetone?
What pressure and thinner ratio do you recommend for these larger airbrushes? Wouldn’t you also need a higher volume compressor?
I thin basically like I do for general airbrushing. The RG3 and Eclipse series guns can be used with normal airbrush setups. The LPH guns should have some sort of tank compressor that can supply a steady cfm. Just because it is larger doesn't mean you are using "thick paint" ... You are using these to get better coverage and minimize overspray.
@@scale-model-workshop Thanks Paul. I wasn’t thinking of thicker paint so much as more of it, over a greater area, meaning a greater volume of air. But you’ve answered the question. Cheers.
oops, does the primer have to be painted (color coat) right away or will I have to scuff it later
You could do either. But it's difficult to do when your model is covered in small delicate details, which is why you want the smoothest primer coat possible without the buildup of rough material on the surface and in the nooks and crannies.
Excellent explanation, thank you sir!!
Won't a lacquer based primer/thinner attack the plastic? Also, does the primer have to be topcoated?
I've never had a problem with lacquer thinner attacking plastic. Why would you topcoat a primer? That would defeat it's purpose.