Version #1 it's decoupage technique. I made some metal signs with plain paper (75 grs paper), printed on laser printers (with inkjet printers doesn't work very well) and transfer to surface with mod podge or regular transfer gel. Moreover, with regular water also works fine. The key on this technique it's to do a gently remove of the paper to reveal the draw behind, cottonettes works fine to do it. Small chips of paper gives an old and rusty look. I try in different types of surfaces (mdf boards, plastic and metal) without need of a primer. Of course, the "white color" of the draw gonna be replaced with the color of surface, but you are free to experiment. Finally, cover the decal/decoupage with matte or glossy finish as you wish. Great video and great tips and techniques in your channel. Thank's Dave!!!!
I did a similar method for some decal/labelling on a guitar pedal recently, I found for a dark surface I could paint white on the adhering face which helped define everything on the image side, still all the same steps just a light coat of white paint before the lacquering stages
Good lesson Dave. Saw some of these methods from the RrXx guys. When it comes too scenery and signage thier tips are great inspiration. I thought of using candle tin for the plate, then emboss your letter from the reverse side with blunt stylist. It would look just like the real thing. Thanx for sharing...
Here's another little trick. If you print your own decals you probably have some pieces of decal paper "wasted" on each run. Print your image on regular printer paper, then take a "scrap" piece of decal paper and glue it over the printed image with "school glue". School glue is a white glue, like Elmer's, but continues to be water soluble even after drying. Then run the paper BACK through the printer, making sure to have it positioned the same way as it was when it went through the first time and then hit it with the spray bonder. You then cut out the image and let it soak a little longer so that the water soaks through the printer paper, the school glue and the regular decal paper backing. Apply as normal.
I like that, the first looks really good for a weathered effect. The second is a very sharp image. I’m trying to replace decals for the James Bond Moonraker, from 1978. The old ones have very small micro cracks. So I’ll have to scan/ copy them and buy bloody decal paper, but thanks for sharing. Really like the first try. Cheers
Cool tutorial Dave, good result. I've seen auto modelers using similar techniques to produce unique fabric "decals" for interiors. Photos of worn leather or vinyl, leopard or zebra skin etc on copy paper, then hairsprayed to lock in the print and laminated on with thinned PVA. Improvisation FTW!
This is actually very usefull for my gasslands cars (a game of madmax-like car battles), I want to do a luftwaffe themed team so for all the crosses and ace insignia I'll use the first method (not swastikas, if someone was wondering).
Looks fantastic,the original sand scorcher had Baja bug embossed on its plate and the wheel arches had a lip on the outside (you can see this in the original ad which is on UA-cam) the body in the re re is actually a monster /Blitzer beetle body. Alex.
If you use the water transfer paper with just two small images at the top of the paper just cut off the top of the page. Make sure your cut is straight and parallel with the bottom of the page. You can then reuse the same page in your printer next time you want to print another small decal. The printer will not know your page is shorter. As long as your cuts are parallel to the bottom and your images are printed at the very top of the page. You can use many techniques like cutting the paper down to index card size and setting printer up to print on index card paper. Even then you can reuse the index card size paper over as long as you have parallel cut and print at the top. Another method of you don’t want to use the water transfer paper is follow the reverse image print on white paper, spray the clear coat onto the paper and the object, then spray white coat on paper. The white coat will give you the white background.
I see alot of folks using all these different techniques however do I need an Inkjet printer or does my regular Canon Pixma printer easily print out decal paper? Great vid btw!
Thanks for the video! How about printing the decal forward (not reversed), using spray adhesive, or thinned white glue, to mount the printed decal on 3x5 card, then use spray adhesive, or thinned white glue to attach the decal onto the plastic? Granted, it would probably only work on printed license plates, but it would save time. You can finish by spraying your project with your choice of clear coat, if you choose. It's worked for me in the past.
Matthew Lowry hehheh, there is always some way to add more detail! It is so refreshing to build from a box again after so long scratch building though... how’s your build coming along?
Dave's Model Workshop yep, there is. I hit a bit of a wall pulling all the pieces together so thought I'd start on the diorama itself as a change of pace. I just wrapped that up, though I'll still do a little more detail on it once the craft is on. ig.me/aP7Xc5t4ohrFLI
Honestly try a glossy page out a magazine and try it on a scrap bit of varnished wood! You get ever last bit of detail a d colour and nothing looks worn and just varnish over the top of the picture! I'm gonna try this again on some of my tank builds to get a nice painted effect of flags n numbers if cam find magazines with that they work the best
Bunnings is the Aus equivalent of Home Depot in North America, or B&Q in the UK. I remember Bunnings Snags became a meme a few years back for some reason.
Just came across your video... for a little realistic detail: the front license plate shouldn’t have the year and month marking. They will only be appearing on the rear license plate. Peace!
This video was helpful along with the rest of the comments below. Can this technique be applied to say, undecorated HO scale containers as well? I'm getting into doing my own decals considering what decals are going for these days.
Awesome to know this! Can you get printing programs that automatically know the standard model scales? Or that you can program...eg; 1/35th? You know what I mean Dave!
Hi Gary, unfortunately not that I know of. You'd have to either print to a size you can measure (like I did with these license plates) or scale down something a known size to whatever scale you want: i.e. if you know the real world thing is 100cm long, you'd print it at 2.85cm long (1/35 of the size) - Dave
I got loads of people wanting tabbaco tins done when I started doing this about 12 years ago, guessing youd know whare I done it but long time ago I forgot all about that haha I still have a tin from back then somewhere with the nice lady still there lol
Why not cut out the tag first then spray the white plate and stick the paper to it let dry and then coat the outside. Use a toothpick to press the paper in so no finger prints on it so not to have ridges in the clear coat. Just a thought.
Hmmm, I'd try an experiment first. The good thing about the varnish is that it gets tackier when it's warmed up. I think Tamiya XF-86 might struggle to become tacky and sticky in the same way? Do please let me know how you go, it would be good to know. Thanks, Dave
We used to get a nice woman cut out a magazine turn it around and varnish the back so the ink comes out on the item the correct way I used to use it making match stick Tabbaco Tins n jewellery boxes etc haha
it's better with laser printer. Inkjet ink reacts very bad with water, varnish, etc. And for nice results use regular 75gr paper, the same used in photocopies. ;)
Actually, a pretty good quick-and-dirty approach to the problem. One suggestion. Don’t use your fingers to rub away the paper. Use a stiff toothbrush. Take care.
Your ? is Yes; The Black🚗🚙were FinallyPhasedOffCA🛣🛤By'73; that yr, I SawFewBlack🚗🚙onThe🛣whenMy👪&wereDrivingMeTo👨🏫🏫But IF it's1970/'72, it's A➡️"NO"⬅️reply(🇦🇺🤝🇺🇸)👌
Dave's Model Workshop I'd chance a guess that spraying/painting/dipping your hands with chemical laden products is probably bad, but since I have no medical training, I'm not entirely sure 😂
You're probably right mate. I've never bothered with gloves before, but you may have a point... you've seen my hands, I'm never going to have a career as a hand model ;)
Actually1970WasTheLastYearThat CA issuedBlack🚗🚙platesFrom'72to'85, All CAplatesWEREfabricatedInBlue; By1986, All CA🚗Switched to White; Born in🏄♂️🇺🇸🦈HB,CA,now400mi. Inland🏜🐆🇺🇸🦉(AZ)🌡118F🌵
Manly 'Aussie' not worried about a bit of varnish on his pinkies. Way to go chap.
Heh heh, thank you sir!
Version #1 it's decoupage technique. I made some metal signs with plain paper (75 grs paper), printed on laser printers (with inkjet printers doesn't work very well) and transfer to surface with mod podge or regular transfer gel. Moreover, with regular water also works fine. The key on this technique it's to do a gently remove of the paper to reveal the draw behind, cottonettes works fine to do it. Small chips of paper gives an old and rusty look. I try in different types of surfaces (mdf boards, plastic and metal) without need of a primer. Of course, the "white color" of the draw gonna be replaced with the color of surface, but you are free to experiment. Finally, cover the decal/decoupage with matte or glossy finish as you wish. Great video and great tips and techniques in your channel. Thank's Dave!!!!
Dave...Just use "Mod Podge" instead of clear coats. Once Mod Podge is dry soak paper with water and rub off and you will have best results.
These would be great methods for road signs & billboards. Thank you for sharing these!
Perfect for those, or posters on brick/timber walls as well.
I did a similar method for some decal/labelling on a guitar pedal recently, I found for a dark surface I could paint white on the adhering face which helped define everything on the image side, still all the same steps just a light coat of white paint before the lacquering stages
Use the worn numberplate at the front as this will always be more weathered than the rear plate.
Bill Hollingsworth great idea, thanks Bill. I’m going to do exactly that. Nice call. D
I actually use my wife’s clear nail polish. It works very well.
Most nail polishes are lacquer based. You may thin the polish a little with a lacquer thinner.
Great tip Dave. They look great. The top one certainly looks a lot smoother.
Tony Jaros thanks mate!
Good lesson Dave. Saw some of these methods from the RrXx guys. When it comes too scenery and signage thier tips are great inspiration. I thought of using candle tin for the plate, then emboss your letter from the reverse side with blunt stylist. It would look just like the real thing. Thanx for sharing...
Here's another little trick. If you print your own decals you probably have some pieces of decal paper "wasted" on each run. Print your image on regular printer paper, then take a "scrap" piece of decal paper and glue it over the printed image with "school glue". School glue is a white glue, like Elmer's, but continues to be water soluble even after drying. Then run the paper BACK through the printer, making sure to have it positioned the same way as it was when it went through the first time and then hit it with the spray bonder. You then cut out the image and let it soak a little longer so that the water soaks through the printer paper, the school glue and the regular decal paper backing. Apply as normal.
i know I'm quite randomly asking but does anybody know a good website to watch newly released series online ?
@Nash Kairo thanks, signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it !!
@Ares Crosby You are welcome :)
Awesome informative Tutorial Dave, thanks for sharing these tip/tricks/n techniques ,till next time, God Bless All
Gary Parker thanks mate :)
Very clever technique. Thanks for sharing.
very informative, enjoyed it,
Thank you!
I like that, the first looks really good for a weathered effect. The second is a very sharp image. I’m trying to replace decals for the James Bond Moonraker, from 1978. The old ones have very small micro cracks. So I’ll have to scan/ copy them and buy bloody decal paper, but thanks for sharing. Really like the first try. Cheers
"rather than you guys not knowing about it, let's share the knowledge"
Cool tutorial Dave, good result. I've seen auto modelers using similar techniques to produce unique fabric "decals" for interiors. Photos of worn leather or vinyl, leopard or zebra skin etc on copy paper, then hairsprayed to lock in the print and laminated on with thinned PVA. Improvisation FTW!
That's a cool use, I like it. It's also good for posters/billboards on walls as well.
This is actually very usefull for my gasslands cars (a game of madmax-like car battles), I want to do a luftwaffe themed team so for all the crosses and ace insignia I'll use the first method (not swastikas, if someone was wondering).
Very good tip , nice tutorial in the video. keep going the good stuff. Greetings from Portugal😉👍
Olá, and thank you!
Looks fantastic,the original sand scorcher had Baja bug embossed on its plate and the wheel arches had a lip on the outside (you can see this in the original ad which is on UA-cam) the body in the re re is actually a monster /Blitzer beetle body.
Alex.
rustin' customs models thanks Alex. I’d love to get my hands on an original, but they are just so expensive on eBay... perhaps some day. Dave
Great technic. Thank you for sharing
If you use the water transfer paper with just two small images at the top of the paper just cut off the top of the page. Make sure your cut is straight and parallel with the bottom of the page. You can then reuse the same page in your printer next time you want to print another small decal. The printer will not know your page is shorter. As long as your cuts are parallel to the bottom and your images are printed at the very top of the page. You can use many techniques like cutting the paper down to index card size and setting printer up to print on index card paper. Even then you can reuse the index card size paper over as long as you have parallel cut and print at the top.
Another method of you don’t want to use the water transfer paper is follow the reverse image print on white paper, spray the clear coat onto the paper and the object, then spray white coat on paper. The white coat will give you the white background.
I see alot of folks using all these different techniques however do I need an Inkjet printer or does my regular Canon Pixma printer easily print out decal paper?
Great vid btw!
Thankyou for sharing
Thanks for the video! How about printing the decal forward (not reversed), using spray adhesive, or thinned white glue, to mount the printed decal on 3x5 card, then use spray adhesive, or thinned white glue to attach the decal onto the plastic? Granted, it would probably only work on printed license plates, but it would save time. You can finish by spraying your project with your choice of clear coat, if you choose. It's worked for me in the past.
Nice work! It's so weird not watching you build things from scratch :)
Although this is kinda of "from scratch". You found a way :)
Matthew Lowry hehheh, there is always some way to add more detail! It is so refreshing to build from a box again after so long scratch building though... how’s your build coming along?
Dave's Model Workshop yep, there is. I hit a bit of a wall pulling all the pieces together so thought I'd start on the diorama itself as a change of pace. I just wrapped that up, though I'll still do a little more detail on it once the craft is on. ig.me/aP7Xc5t4ohrFLI
Mate, I love it. Your rocks look incredible!
Dave's Model Workshop thanks a lot!
Honestly try a glossy page out a magazine and try it on a scrap bit of varnished wood! You get ever last bit of detail a d colour and nothing looks worn and just varnish over the top of the picture! I'm gonna try this again on some of my tank builds to get a nice painted effect of flags n numbers if cam find magazines with that they work the best
Great tips. I will be trying this. Thanks for the video 😎👍
Glad you found it helpful - let me know how you get one with your version :)
Very cool thank's for shearing mate.
Thanks Bilge Rat! It's a nifty little technique to have up your sleeve.
Bunnings is the Aus equivalent of Home Depot in North America, or B&Q in the UK. I remember Bunnings Snags became a meme a few years back for some reason.
Just came across your video... for a little realistic detail: the front license plate shouldn’t have the year and month marking. They will only be appearing on the rear license plate. Peace!
This video was helpful along with the rest of the comments below. Can this technique be applied to say, undecorated HO scale containers as well? I'm getting into doing my own decals considering what decals are going for these days.
It should be. The only downside is the visible edge to the paper, if you're not careful.
@@DavesModelWorkshop Okay. I'll give it a try and see how it works out. Thank you.
Going to try this Method. You show on here.
Great information thanks for sharing
Spunkey739 thanks, hope it is of some use :)
Have you tried transfer glaze and Moshe podge yet?
No, mainly because I'm too cheap to buy the transfer glaze if I'm being honest! :D
@@DavesModelWorkshop haha, love the honesty. I'm going to try this as well and see how it works on slightly curved surfaces.
@@sandymclea Cool, do please let me know how you go. I'm interested to hear. Cheers, Dave
Awesome to know this! Can you get printing programs that automatically know the standard model scales? Or that you can program...eg; 1/35th? You know what I mean Dave!
Hi Gary, unfortunately not that I know of. You'd have to either print to a size you can measure (like I did with these license plates) or scale down something a known size to whatever scale you want: i.e. if you know the real world thing is 100cm long, you'd print it at 2.85cm long (1/35 of the size) - Dave
Damn birds! Thanks for the tips. I’ll be trying this technique for some custom nose art for a Spitfire I’m making for my British friend. Cheers!
Will the first technique work with Flat Clear color from Mr.Hobby ?
I got loads of people wanting tabbaco tins done when I started doing this about 12 years ago, guessing youd know whare I done it but long time ago I forgot all about that haha I still have a tin from back then somewhere with the nice lady still there lol
great tip
Why not cut out the tag first then spray the white plate and stick the paper to it let dry and then coat the outside. Use a toothpick to press the paper in so no finger prints on it so not to have ridges in the clear coat. Just a thought.
Could you use that bunnings spray to be a varnish for a model? Really cant find anything else
L for Loser I don’t see why not. It seems pretty good stuff, and the instructions on the can claim it doesn’t discolour over time.
Dave's Model Workshop i went to bunnings today and it was $20. Should I try and brush paint xf86 instead?
Hmmm, I'd try an experiment first. The good thing about the varnish is that it gets tackier when it's warmed up. I think Tamiya XF-86 might struggle to become tacky and sticky in the same way? Do please let me know how you go, it would be good to know. Thanks, Dave
I use nail polish.
We used to get a nice woman cut out a magazine turn it around and varnish the back so the ink comes out on the item the correct way I used to use it making match stick Tabbaco Tins n jewellery boxes etc haha
What type of printer did you use? Laser or ink?
Hi Wendy, it was a laser printer that contains toner rather than inkjets. Cheers, Dave
Hey Dave, they have these things called gloves... LOL
Larry Brown what are these things called “gloves” that you speak of? ;)
Gloves are for pussies!
@@tonyadkins8320 That is another type of glove
If he is too cheap to buy decal paper, then he is too cheap to buy disposable nitrile gloves as well. ;)
excellent.
Inkjet printer or laser? Or doesn't matter?
Hi Sooty, I printed on a laser printer, but I think it would probably be okay with either type.
Dave's Model Workshop inkjet is water soluble, laser is fused plastic powder..
it's better with laser printer. Inkjet ink reacts very bad with water, varnish, etc. And for nice results use regular 75gr paper, the same used in photocopies. ;)
Laser printed, not inkjet, correct??
Correct :)
Actually, a pretty good quick-and-dirty approach to the problem. One suggestion. Don’t use your fingers to rub away the paper. Use a stiff toothbrush. Take care.
Thanks for sharing :(
can you make decals for me thank you dave
Those plates you displayed are Really 1940's,1950's, &'60's vintage, with➡️ '69(Year I was born), being the LAST FULL YEAR in distribution
Paul Maserati that is some specialised knowledge there mate! So am I a bit off for a 1979 plate?
Your ? is Yes; The Black🚗🚙were FinallyPhasedOffCA🛣🛤By'73; that yr, I SawFewBlack🚗🚙onThe🛣whenMy👪&wereDrivingMeTo👨🏫🏫But IF it's1970/'72, it's A➡️"NO"⬅️reply(🇦🇺🤝🇺🇸)👌
Oh well, it's good to know. It's too late for me to change them now! Cheers Paul!
ALWAYS LIFETIME u-📺brothers🇦🇺🤝🇺🇸🐱(🌡114F🏜🌵🚜🛠⛏🍽🍕)🌎🏰
I just use avery clear shipping labels and print directly on them.
Great tutorial, Dave.... But for goodness sakes put some bl**dy gloves on! 😱
xjrthirteen I’ve had a couple of people tell me that! Is it actually bad for my health to not wear gloves?
Dave's Model Workshop I'd chance a guess that spraying/painting/dipping your hands with chemical laden products is probably bad, but since I have no medical training, I'm not entirely sure 😂
You're probably right mate. I've never bothered with gloves before, but you may have a point... you've seen my hands, I'm never going to have a career as a hand model ;)
GET TO THE POINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh I'm sorry, did my free content - that you got for FREE - not satisfy you? Go elsewhere then.
Holy shit, April 1st? Get back to punching kangaroos.
Great info but took way too long to spit it out.
Actually1970WasTheLastYearThat CA issuedBlack🚗🚙platesFrom'72to'85, All CAplatesWEREfabricatedInBlue; By1986, All CA🚗Switched to White; Born in🏄♂️🇺🇸🦈HB,CA,now400mi. Inland🏜🐆🇺🇸🦉(AZ)🌡118F🌵
Paul Maserati whoa! 118 degrees!!! That is insane!
You'll💚it; Had Sydney had the SAME climate, the🇨🇳enclave in🇦🇺would be ALMOST gone; it keeps the population LOW🙂🏜🇺🇸