Every time I watch your videos i think of that part of the country, the Amish and Mennonite community's, Bird in Hand, The Dairy Farms, Penn State...old war memorials, Pocono Mts etc...used to travel over there a ton when i lived in NJ loved it, in Vegas Now. Nice diagnostics once again...
My dad used to have an 04 XG350 and there were always Airbag codes when the battery was low. Was a really reliable car, only killed batteries every 2 to 3 years and rusted badly.
**** Next time you think you have a heat related sensor issue, grab a can of computer duster a.k.a. "Canned Air", turn it upside down and spray the component you are troubleshooting...the cold gas comes out and freezes whatever you spray it on. Would have been interesting to see if the sensor came back when chilled.
I have watched sensors with heat related issues come back to life live on labscope just by dumping a handful of snow onto the sensor 😎 Canadian diagnostics 😉
IIRC Those older Hyundai SRS modules will permanently light the light until cleared via scan tool if the fault persists for 5 drive cycles w/o correcting itself. I believe the light will go out if the fault goes away and it didn't go through those 5 drive cycles yet.
That SRS issue is due to the connection getting loosen. The connector is located under the passenger seat and there’s not much a slack in the wiring harness so as the seat is moved back and forth over the years, the connection gets weaker. There was a recall on this but the fix that dealer put in didn’t last long. So I came up with my own remedy and it’s been trouble free for many years. The fix is very simple: 1. Disconnect the battery 2. Take the seat off the mounting points. 2 bolts and 2 nuts. 3. Look for the yellow harness under the seat. 4. Disconnect the harness. Clean the contacts and slightly bend the male pins so they make better contacts. 5. MOST IMPORTANT - do not attach the harness back in its factory mounting point. Instead use a few zip ties to loosely hang it under the seat. This way the connectors will not be subject to the bungee cord effect whenever the power seat is being operated. Also, refrain from storing any item under the seat. Foreign objects tend to interfere with the harness. 6. Clear the code with a scanner or just drive around and the SRS light will clear itself. I have a 2001 model of this car and it’s been very reliable. It now has 267K miles on the original engine and transmission. I do my own maintenance and have wrenched on every nut and bolt on this vehicle. No rust problem either since it has never seen salt. This was the last generation of Hyundai vehicles that shared the platform with Mitsubishi. You’ll find a lot of similarities and even the Mitsubishi logo on some parts.
If the problem occurred frequently, I would consider moving it off that water outlet/therm housing (heat source), however, at 17 years of service life, it doesn't warrant relocating the sensor.
Mine is mounted on transmission bell housing of my 06 Santa Fe, it lasted 10 years and replacement is showing signs of failure. Wiring limits placement, however, an aluminum heat sink with heat sink grease, may fit between with longer screw. Good observation tinkerwest! I'll be buying a Factory unit this time.
Wow another 2 bonus footages! Damn, ivan. You're on a roll! So simple sensor to fix that tach problem, wow. I think on gm vehicles, the tach signal is inside the distributor like the cam signal is some sort. Hope I'm right lol! Have not seen much of hydnai vehicles in your videos. But pretty cool to watch! Love the videos!
Their top product videos are all Scotty Kilmer. They should have picked someone else. Not inviting for me to buy one. Great video though and always nice to see your content Ivan.
looked like it mounted on two raised posts and just open air underneath. so it probably wouldn't make any difference in that case and I imagine the current is very low, only driving the tach and ecm input.
This is happening with my '99 blazer tach is erratic engine hiccups then dies at low rpm/idle....coil current or ignition module or crank and cam sensors
I was subscribed to this channel for over a year was looking for it in my subscriptions list couldn't find it. For some reason I became unsubscribed. don't know what happened. I am now re subscribed.
On my Dodge Stealth, the air bag (SRS) light came on when I turned on the ignition without the gauge cluster attached. The code it set? Something like "airbag warning illumination circuit fault." The only way I was able to turn it off was with the Chrysler DRB with Mitsubishi adapter.
Hey Ivan. That is a massive heat sink on the bottom of that sensor module. Maybe could have used some "heat sink compound between the block and the heat sink of the module (?) Might help on the transfer of heat.
A little off topic here but its been getting to me lately. I watch some of these other car repair videos and alot of them couldn't diagnose a bad coil let alone a module, they just replace it. The thing that gets to me is the comments. People commenting how amazing they are and wish they lived close to work on their cars. Then they b#tch about the good channels because they use to much high tech equipment. God for bid you say something because if you do your hating or dont know sh#t. I watched this guy diag a charging issue on a truck. He doesn't test the control or ground. He doesn't do a proper voltage drop on the positive but 2 mins in he's replacing the pcm wtf. I asked how he came to that conclusion and I'm the idiot. Sorry for the rant.
I believe because it was a "common ground" for the circuits within the module. Had the ground failed the complete module would have been inoperative. That of course would be easily detectable.
So the computer was using the ignition coil current pulse for two measurements, ignition success events and calculated rpm. Sneaky lol. Surely a crank sensor would be better for rpm?
It wouldn't be able to do that since it needs to know engine RPM to know when to fire the coils, you'd have a chicken/egg problem!. Engine speed and position will come from the crank sensor.
17 years, milage and heat cycles unknown, safe to say it's got some miles on it, I'm torn about it failing one part of me thinks it's put in a good service life another part thinks wtf it's only 17 years old, either way nice diag
I suspect the problem is less to do with the heat created by the module, and more down to it being bolted to the cylinder head right next to the thermostat housing.
My 2002 Hyundai accent (manual, 2 door, tl or gl idk its the base model) doesnt have a techometer. Its annoying because i have to figure out when to shift. After a while i can tell with sound i think buttttttt i really want a techometer. Is there a way to get one and how much would it be?
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics google leads me to ones that i have to mount, i know the automatic version of my car has a techometer but google wont tell me if i can buy one of those and replace mine with it
$50 part "ignition misfire sensor". Cool scanner...it moves rather fast compared to many well known brands. If they weren't so expensive, I'd buy one just to have for my vehicles to review whats going on even though a check engine light doesn't light up.
This was the era when Hyundai/Kia weren’t building the best cars but this car could very well need a tune up there’s no telling how many miles are on it
A seafoam treatment via the Throttle Body could help clean the years of carbon buildup on the valves and cylinder head. The elderly gentleman probably drives it too soft thus never burns the yunk out.
Every time I watch your videos i think of that part of the country, the Amish and Mennonite community's, Bird in Hand, The Dairy Farms, Penn State...old war memorials, Pocono Mts etc...used to travel over there a ton when i lived in NJ loved it, in Vegas Now. Nice diagnostics once again...
Can Ivan fix buggies?
Often, hooves need trimming...
My dad used to have an 04 XG350 and there were always Airbag codes when the battery was low. Was a really reliable car, only killed batteries every 2 to 3 years and rusted badly.
First parts required in awhile. You had a nice streak going!!
**** Next time you think you have a heat related sensor issue, grab a can of computer duster a.k.a. "Canned Air", turn it upside down and spray the component you are troubleshooting...the cold gas comes out and freezes whatever you spray it on. Would have been interesting to see if the sensor came back when chilled.
that's clever!
Gum remover spray works too. I get mine from Brady industries but I’m sure there are other sources
I have watched sensors with heat related issues come back to life live on labscope just by dumping a handful of snow onto the sensor 😎 Canadian diagnostics 😉
I've seen this work on jeep computers! Put in the freezer for a bit then presto
Привет Иван! Старинная конструкция Mitsubishi. Имел "счастье" столкнуться с этой же неисправностью на моем автомобиле.
Love your videos. Informative,thorough n to the point. Never a stone unturned.
IIRC Those older Hyundai SRS modules will permanently light the light until cleared via scan tool if the fault persists for 5 drive cycles w/o correcting itself. I believe the light will go out if the fault goes away and it didn't go through those 5 drive cycles yet.
That SRS issue is due to the connection getting loosen. The connector is located under the passenger seat and there’s not much a slack in the wiring harness so as the seat is moved back and forth over the years, the connection gets weaker.
There was a recall on this but the fix that dealer put in didn’t last long. So I came up with my own remedy and it’s been trouble free for many years.
The fix is very simple:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Take the seat off the mounting points. 2 bolts and 2 nuts.
3. Look for the yellow harness under the seat.
4. Disconnect the harness. Clean the contacts and slightly bend the male pins so they make better contacts.
5. MOST IMPORTANT - do not attach the harness back in its factory mounting point. Instead use a few zip ties to loosely hang it under the seat. This way the connectors will not be subject to the bungee cord effect whenever the power seat is being operated.
Also, refrain from storing any item under the seat. Foreign objects tend to interfere with the harness.
6. Clear the code with a scanner or just drive around and the SRS light will clear itself.
I have a 2001 model of this car and it’s been very reliable. It now has 267K miles on the original engine and transmission. I do my own maintenance and have wrenched on every nut and bolt on this vehicle. No rust problem either since it has never seen salt.
This was the last generation of Hyundai vehicles that shared the platform with Mitsubishi. You’ll find a lot of similarities and even the Mitsubishi logo on some parts.
Ignition amplifier.
…on to the video!
If the problem occurred frequently, I would consider moving it off that water outlet/therm housing (heat source), however, at 17 years of service life, it doesn't warrant relocating the sensor.
Mine is mounted on transmission bell housing of my 06 Santa Fe, it lasted 10 years and replacement is showing signs of failure. Wiring limits placement, however, an aluminum heat sink with heat sink grease, may fit between with longer screw. Good observation tinkerwest! I'll be buying a Factory unit this time.
Awesome Ivan!! Cant get enough!!
Good to see you again ivan.missing your vids.
Wow another 2 bonus footages! Damn, ivan. You're on a roll! So simple sensor to fix that tach problem, wow. I think on gm vehicles, the tach signal is inside the distributor like the cam signal is some sort. Hope I'm right lol! Have not seen much of hydnai vehicles in your videos. But pretty cool to watch! Love the videos!
Dang those toys are so expensive! I might grab that ThinkDiag for the bidirectional controls on the phone, though.
They are great scan tool! Just don’t lose it! Don’t leave it in customer car like I did
:( I got new one tho. Luckily it was on sale.
Yeah, they are expensive but you kinda need one to be able work on cars more throughly
79,000 miles, that’s a nice little car
Another great vid, PHAD!!!
Their top product videos are all Scotty Kilmer. They should have picked someone else. Not inviting for me to buy one.
Great video though and always nice to see your content Ivan.
I find it humorous that the ignition failure sensor, failed
Love the short and simple diagnostics.
An easy one for once 😅
Finally a 'part required' video! :D
Can't win them all NPR lol 😁
They need to send you a few of those scanners for you to do a give away to us :)
I'd settle for the diagunV..😁
indeed man .. a competition to win for scanner ..??????
Did that component require dielectric grease on its heat sink base ? I enjoy your videos Ivan ..you and SMA and Scanner Danner are top of the charts!
I was thinking the same thing, Rockcycle
looked like it mounted on two raised posts and just open air underneath. so it probably wouldn't make any difference in that case and I imagine the current is very low, only driving the tach and ecm input.
Did you mean thermal paste? I don't think that's a heat sink
Excellent instructional diagnostic video.
Like #685
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
Hindsight is 20-15!
*PARTS REQUIRED! GASP!*
This is happening with my '99 blazer tach is erratic engine hiccups then dies at low rpm/idle....coil current or ignition module or crank and cam sensors
Thanks Ivan!
I was subscribed to this channel for over a year was looking for it in my subscriptions list couldn't find it. For some reason I became unsubscribed. don't know what happened. I am now re subscribed.
Thank you for your support!
On my Dodge Stealth, the air bag (SRS) light came on when I turned on the ignition without the gauge cluster attached. The code it set? Something like "airbag warning illumination circuit fault." The only way I was able to turn it off was with the Chrysler DRB with Mitsubishi adapter.
Yeah those DSM cars had some quirks lol
Hey Ivan. That is a massive heat sink on the bottom of that sensor module. Maybe could have used some "heat sink compound between the block and the heat sink of the module (?) Might help on the transfer of heat.
It'll be good for another 15 years 👌
Without the group you would not have the coil ramps. We're the ramps inverted on the scope?
Great troubleshooting, nice explanation. Good video, stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
probably salt/rain water intrusion messing up the SRS sensor when wet. I think I recall a TSB about it, but who knows could be total wrong vehicle :)
The scope showed a nice 0 to 12 signal. Ground and power.
Sensor, same as amplifier or am I thinking of the older ones? (Previous comment)
looks like it samples the ignition coil/s primary current, amplifies it and outputs nice fixed width pulses :)
A little off topic here but its been getting to me lately. I watch some of these other car repair videos and alot of them couldn't diagnose a bad coil let alone a module, they just replace it. The thing that gets to me is the comments. People commenting how amazing they are and wish they lived close to work on their cars. Then they b#tch about the good channels because they use to much high tech equipment. God for bid you say something because if you do your hating or dont know sh#t. I watched this guy diag a charging issue on a truck. He doesn't test the control or ground. He doesn't do a proper voltage drop on the positive but 2 mins in he's replacing the pcm wtf. I asked how he came to that conclusion and I'm the idiot. Sorry for the rant.
Hahaha great rant comment 👌😁
Thank you for teaching me this.
So why didn't he have to check for ground? My guess (not a mechanic) because the coil ramps were fine and they share the same ground🤷♂️
I believe because it was a "common ground" for the circuits within the module. Had the ground failed the complete module would have been inoperative. That of course would be easily detectable.
So the computer was using the ignition coil current pulse for two measurements, ignition success events and calculated rpm.
Sneaky lol.
Surely a crank sensor would be better for rpm?
It wouldn't be able to do that since it needs to know engine RPM to know when to fire the coils, you'd have a chicken/egg problem!. Engine speed and position will come from the crank sensor.
what was the solution with the airbag indicator lamp? Best regards
Will this sensor keep the vehicle from starting when it goes out
Great video Ivan. So what's the answer to the critical thinking question?
17 years, milage and heat cycles unknown, safe to say it's got some miles on it, I'm torn about it failing one part of me thinks it's put in a good service life another part thinks wtf it's only 17 years old, either way nice diag
That sensor needs a small heat sink...some cooling fins to dissipate heat better.
I suspect the problem is less to do with the heat created by the module, and more down to it being bolted to the cylinder head right next to the thermostat housing.
Double bonus good deal!
Good job
Interesting device. I guess its there to protect the cat if a coil goes bad?
Unlikely... Car is probably not smart enough to shut down the injectors
A 2004 with only 79k miles, amazing.
I can only FOCUS when it's a Ford Focus. :-)
Need some more Genie videos :-)
So it would appear the customer wasn't paying attention to the tach prior to bringing the vehicle to Ivan.
Customer is 90 years old so that's ok 👌🙂
It's an auto, who bothers to look at the tach?
Finally a short video. just kidding!
My 2002 Hyundai accent (manual, 2 door, tl or gl idk its the base model) doesnt have a techometer. Its annoying because i have to figure out when to shift. After a while i can tell with sound i think buttttttt i really want a techometer. Is there a way to get one and how much would it be?
Just Google it... Easy installation 👍
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics google leads me to ones that i have to mount, i know the automatic version of my car has a techometer but google wont tell me if i can buy one of those and replace mine with it
@@KS_Gaming05You would have to research the wiring diagrams to see if there is an rpm signal to the cluster...
Ivan.
How does the Thinktool compare to the other scan tools you have in your arsenal?
Nice job Ivan! Hey what light weight head lamp would you recommend or do you use? Thanks!
Foxelli USB rechargeable. 15 bucks on my Amazon store!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks Ivan!
👍👍👍👍
$50 part "ignition misfire sensor". Cool scanner...it moves rather fast compared to many well known brands. If they weren't so expensive, I'd buy one just to have for my vehicles to review whats going on even though a check engine light doesn't light up.
Sensor is on top of thermostat, engine could be running hot. Check the coolant level.
Autel vs this scanner ?
Both 😀 I have had Launch for 3 years now. About a month ago i bought an MaxiPro mp808ts. Both have their own strengths.
Routine job for PHAD 👍👍👍
Are you sponsored by think car?
cool
👍
Yeah those centers are garbage man you might as well put a new sensor on it
The motor sounds like a thrashing machine.
That engine doesn't sound as smooth as outher V6 engines
Hyundai/Kia are junk
@@sirsweetness8332 Yah it's kinda strange as the new Kia engine sounds a lot smoother
This was the era when Hyundai/Kia weren’t building the best cars but this car could very well need a tune up there’s no telling how many miles are on it
@@JDMSwervo2001 Yah it sounds like the idle is a little rough I believe it said 79k miles on the odometer screen
A seafoam treatment via the Throttle Body could help clean the years of carbon buildup on the valves and cylinder head. The elderly gentleman probably drives it too soft thus never burns the yunk out.
Dose your wife know you spend all the household money on tools?
Tools make money
Also, could be a free tool from the manufacturer.
My wife's 06 Sorento has that sensor. HMMMMMM. One more failure item.
Ok
Dammit!
Edit: second
At 17 years, it's a wonder that Hyundai runs at all.
first
👍👍👍👍