I had spidertrax 1.5” spacers on my rig for like 30k miles and had no issues. Literally followed everything he said. Smooth mounting surface, quality brand name, red loctite, proper torque. Daily drove and wheeled hard on them, no issues. Have since changed wheels and don’t need them, but would t hesitate to use them again if needed
I bought my first Jeep late in 2017, a used 2016 JKU. The prev owner put spacers on but didn't remove those clips mentioned at about the 3:46 mark. I had terrible tire wear, vibrations, and all sorts of other issues. My own fault for not knowing what I was doing. But the local Jeep community quickly figured it all out and helped me fix it. Wish I had this video 3 years ago.
I've been running 1.5" spacers on my 2011 JK with 35" tires since it was new. Never had an issue, even after many trips to Moab and other tough offroading.
Thank you Colt for your video. I have been considering running wheel spacers on my TJ because of a new wheel I want to run . I want to go to a 17"" wheel instead of the current 15" wheel I have now. I've been a little nervous about using spacers to achieve what I'm try to accomplish. You have just helped me out with that decision. Take care and be safe sir.
I'm glad it helps, I personally feel if they are installed correctly and using high quality parts there isn't any problem, especially when using 1-1/4" spacers from a solid company like spidertrax.
The real problem with adding any width to the track on any vehicle, or axle; is that you drastically increase the pressures on the wheel bearing and hub.
It's certainly not different, anytime you add width, you will add an enormous amount of force to the hub assembly. It might work fine for a while, but if you hit something hard, like a curb, it will be much more likely to damage the vehicle.
@@loganthesaint It's more of the catastrophic failure I would be worried about. I run 32s on a Dana 30, but stick with stock width. It's not a huge deal; do whatever you want, just remember that running 35s or 37s on wide rims is not at all what any of that drivetrain was engineered for. And if it comes flying off in traffic, you are liable for whatever it hits.
I know it's not a Jeep but, anyone who has ever moded a Chevrolet Trailblazer will tell you that wheel spacers are a necessity to clear the upper ball joint on the front end. The way they are designed they stick out over the front tires. Anything bigger than a 30.5 in tall tire will require at least a 1.5 inch spacer on factory offset wheels. Wider than stock tires may require more spacers. I am currently running 32x11in Milestar Patagonia MTs on my 05 trailblazer with 2 in hub centric spacers. Haven't noticed much difference in steering characteristics from stock. I know they will be rough on bearings but haven't noticed anything detrimental to the handling.
A couple more comments to add to the fray. Another issue to using shims is that you have less thread engagement in the nuts. It becomes much easier to loose torque and to just pull out the threads. The second comment is on spacers. You need to watch how far you space out your wheels so that you don't move the support too far away. You can create a lever with the tires which puts a lot more strain on bearings, ball joints, bushings etc. I go through a set of upper and lower ball joints about every two years because I am too cheap to buy wheels with proper back spacing.
I have Bora steel shims or spacers on my rebel, I needed them to run 35s or else the tire would hit my front end parts. I've had them on for about a year now, drive it every day and went wheeling at a few different places, haven't had any nuts come loose and been working great. I re torqued it a week after, been great.
Thanks Cole. I checked out your video because I bottom 1997 ZJ with wheel spacers and now I have to replace CV axles so have to remove the wheel spacers and have never used them before so I might just ditch them. Anyway I'll inspect them and use your advice
If you put loctite on the studs before you install then you won't get a accurate reading if you go to . ReTorque and if thay did move on the retorque then you broke the bond of the loctite.
Nice vid, crazy coincidence that this is what I'm doing right now! How much loctite would you recommend? I just upgraded my 27 spl 8.25 w/ a 29 spl carrier, and I'm a bit hesitant to use red locktight after pulling the old spacers off my Jeep, I don't know how much the guy that put em on used (didn't seem like too much) but they were a nightmare to get off and I trashed the studs and nuts (I probably should have used more heat on em). Right now I'm riding on smaller "street" tires while the gears break in, but I'll definitely need spacers for the correct size whees & tires.
I've always ran a line of red loctite down the thread of the stud, I don't ever want it to come loose or free unless I'm intentionally trying to do so.
@@Bleepincolt Thank you good sir! I really don't want em to come off ether but still, I don't want to press new studs everytime I disassemble them. I'll figure it out. Thanks again.
Definitely need to use loctite on first install and any time the spacer is removed. I had a friend who did brakes on his rig and did not use loctite, two wheels came off while driving, and the other two were on there way.
Man so you even have to remove them for stuff like brakes, did not realize that. I have a 2018 JKU, bought “take off” wheels and tires from the dealership from a JL, bought JK to JL conversion wheel spacers from spidertrax, bought a full Mcgard wheel installation kit spline drive with locking lug nuts. Should have done more research, oh well, spent to much money to turn back now. Does anyone know if shops will remove wheel spacers or is that something you have to do before hand?
And make sure the lugs on the spare are facing the proper way. I've seen a few people and videos were they put them in backwards and you will lose a wheel.
I'm not a paid promoter of any kind from or for any wheel spacer company. I just wanted to spread light to some myths and realities. Thanks for watching👍
Interesting. I've found the front end to be ever so slightly wider on the front end of my Jeep cherokee xj stock, as well as most straight axle'd vehicles. I did a disc brake conversion in the rear and it still looks wider in the front with the rear wheels sticking an extra 1/8th out on either side.
@@jeepindave5464 The front is wider to clear suspension components at full lock. good example of this is leaf sprung front ends on old 4x4 trucks and jeeps. The rear isn't intentionally narrower per say, the front is intentionally wider though.
I had 2 inch spacers on the Armada I lifted, so that way I could use the stock wheels and ad 33's. Definitely bad on the wheel bearings, but the spacers were surprisingly strong off-roading and I even ran at the drag strip. LOL at 100+ MPH I felt that the wheel bearing was gone.
@@Bleepincolt I have lifted probably 30 plus jeeps at my old job and never had that issue with aftermarket wheels with proper offset. I feel using the stock wheels with spacers have more leverage and aided in the wear.
@@g-rod5199 crazy, I lost count years ago on how many vehicles I've lifted and built but didn't notice extra wear on a wheel bearing or unit bearing than any other offset wheel. Do you have anyway to show how it would cause more wear or stress on drivetrain parts? I'd be curious to see the information on it.
@@Bleepincolt yeah, that is a rough estimate. Lol I used to do it professionally and did wranglers, grand cherokees, RAM 2500's, 3500's and even some others. The majority was wranglers. But I think solid axles handle spacers better. The Armada is independent front and rear and causes a camber moment that can't be corrected. But I think that is probably the reason that it lead to premature bearing failure. Not a bad problem though, they were cheap for it and easy to do, and granted it was daily driven probably 100 miles a day for a year. And then I spent every moment offroad I could. Lol
As long as the wheel spacer is made from quality parts it shouldn't be the fail point. But it's also good to remember that the wider the stance is the more leverage there is against the factory drivetrain parts.
I was hoping you'd at least touch on how they might affect the handling both on n off road n maybe do a side by side test n comparison on a vehicle but still good information
Yes I think it’s called scrub, it’s how your wheels actually turn on the vehicle. Basically they don’t just pivot they need to roll back or forward depending on the direction you turn. It’s hard on components and can mess with handling.
@@larryfogle3697 Yup, can be bad on steering. I think you check by turning the wheel while stationary, then looking at the marks on the ground. Chalk or paint may help to see the marks. I don't know if or how the rear would be affected tho.
A wheel spacer is placing your rotational mass(tires) out farther away from the vehicle. But it really isn't any different than an aftermarket wheel that pushes the tire out as well.
Only if I breaks free, if it doesn't move then you aren't harming the loctite. If it moves then you would want to remove that lugnut, re loctite it and re-torque👍
@@Bleepincolt no I mean keeping some space between duallies when going with bigger tires on the dually. I put 245/75R16 on my '93 chevy dually. There is barely a gap now with no load.
@@consaka1 gotcha, yes I've ran dually spacers before and installed them on lifted dually trucks with oversized tires. Same thing applies though, quality spacers, good mounting surfaces and proper torque.👍
@@Bleepincolt yeh I need like a half inch spacer and have had no luck finding them. Searches always turn up stuff for guys doing like this video. Either that or I'm worse at searching than I thought. Got any suggestions?
@@consaka1 only 1/2" isn't much. But there are spacers out there. The problem is then you're 100% committed to cutting down your wheel studs a lot but there has to be someone that makes quality bolt on 8 lug spacers that are thin. I've always used 1-1/4" spacers in that case.
But how is it any different than buying aftermarket wheels that stick out the same width? I believe larger tires, wheels, offset and driving style can add to premature wear but I don't see a difference if the tire sticks out 2" on the fender from aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers to gain that width. Every lifted vehicle usually needs some offset out to clear the larger tires.
I had spidertrax 1.5” spacers on my rig for like 30k miles and had no issues. Literally followed everything he said. Smooth mounting surface, quality brand name, red loctite, proper torque. Daily drove and wheeled hard on them, no issues. Have since changed wheels and don’t need them, but would t hesitate to use them again if needed
I bought my first Jeep late in 2017, a used 2016 JKU. The prev owner put spacers on but didn't remove those clips mentioned at about the 3:46 mark. I had terrible tire wear, vibrations, and all sorts of other issues. My own fault for not knowing what I was doing. But the local Jeep community quickly figured it all out and helped me fix it. Wish I had this video 3 years ago.
I've been running 1.5" spacers on my 2011 JK with 35" tires since it was new. Never had an issue, even after many trips to Moab and other tough offroading.
I just ordered two pairs of the black 1.5" Spidertrax spacers over the weekend and will be installing them later this week.
Thank you Colt for your video. I have been considering running wheel spacers on my TJ because of a new wheel I want to run . I want to go to a 17"" wheel instead of the current 15" wheel I have now. I've been a little nervous about using spacers to achieve what I'm try to accomplish. You have just helped me out with that decision. Take care and be safe sir.
I'm glad it helps, I personally feel if they are installed correctly and using high quality parts there isn't any problem, especially when using 1-1/4" spacers from a solid company like spidertrax.
Nice video, promoting safety is always welcome. Well done
The real problem with adding any width to the track on any vehicle, or axle; is that you drastically increase the pressures on the wheel bearing and hub.
But how is it any different than adding aftermarket wheels that stick out the same?
It's certainly not different, anytime you add width, you will add an enormous amount of force to the hub assembly. It might work fine for a while, but if you hit something hard, like a curb, it will be much more likely to damage the vehicle.
Yep, but I have an XJ, and can swap bearings and ball joints both sides in an hour or so. So no big deal.
@@loganthesaint
It's more of the catastrophic failure I would be worried about. I run 32s on a Dana 30, but stick with stock width. It's not a huge deal; do whatever you want, just remember that running 35s or 37s on wide rims is not at all what any of that drivetrain was engineered for. And if it comes flying off in traffic, you are liable for whatever it hits.
I know it's not a Jeep but, anyone who has ever moded a Chevrolet Trailblazer will tell you that wheel spacers are a necessity to clear the upper ball joint on the front end. The way they are designed they stick out over the front tires. Anything bigger than a 30.5 in tall tire will require at least a 1.5 inch spacer on factory offset wheels. Wider than stock tires may require more spacers. I am currently running 32x11in Milestar Patagonia MTs on my 05 trailblazer with 2 in hub centric spacers. Haven't noticed much difference in steering characteristics from stock. I know they will be rough on bearings but haven't noticed anything detrimental to the handling.
Watched this even though i've been rocking spidertrax 1.5" spacers for +20,000 miles now.
I've never gotten a single dime from spidertrax. They're just that good👍
A couple more comments to add to the fray. Another issue to using shims is that you have less thread engagement in the nuts. It becomes much easier to loose torque and to just pull out the threads. The second comment is on spacers. You need to watch how far you space out your wheels so that you don't move the support too far away. You can create a lever with the tires which puts a lot more strain on bearings, ball joints, bushings etc. I go through a set of upper and lower ball joints about every two years because I am too cheap to buy wheels with proper back spacing.
I have Bora steel shims or spacers on my rebel, I needed them to run 35s or else the tire would hit my front end parts. I've had them on for about a year now, drive it every day and went wheeling at a few different places, haven't had any nuts come loose and been working great. I re torqued it a week after, been great.
Thanks Cole.
I checked out your video because I bottom 1997 ZJ with wheel spacers and now I have to replace CV axles so have to remove the wheel spacers and have never used them before so I might just ditch them.
Anyway I'll inspect them and use your advice
Another great video Colt!
Thanks!
If you put loctite on the studs before you install then you won't get a accurate reading if you go to . ReTorque and if thay did move on the retorque then you broke the bond of the loctite.
If it moves at the retorque you'd want to remove that lug nut re-apply loctite and retorque.
Been running 3” wheel spacers for like 4 years now on my Xj. No problems. A little more vibration, but hey what can you do. Mine are aluminum.
Nice vid, crazy coincidence that this is what I'm doing right now! How much loctite would you recommend? I just upgraded my 27 spl 8.25 w/ a 29 spl carrier, and I'm a bit hesitant to use red locktight after pulling the old spacers off my Jeep, I don't know how much the guy that put em on used (didn't seem like too much) but they were a nightmare to get off and I trashed the studs and nuts (I probably should have used more heat on em). Right now I'm riding on smaller "street" tires while the gears break in, but I'll definitely need spacers for the correct size whees & tires.
I've always ran a line of red loctite down the thread of the stud, I don't ever want it to come loose or free unless I'm intentionally trying to do so.
@@Bleepincolt Thank you good sir! I really don't want em to come off ether but still, I don't want to press new studs everytime I disassemble them. I'll figure it out. Thanks again.
Thanks cole, enjoy your videos 👍🏻🇺🇸
Get it Colt!
Definitely need to use loctite on first install and any time the spacer is removed. I had a friend who did brakes on his rig and did not use loctite, two wheels came off while driving, and the other two were on there way.
Man so you even have to remove them for stuff like brakes, did not realize that. I have a 2018 JKU, bought “take off” wheels and tires from the dealership from a JL, bought JK to JL conversion wheel spacers from spidertrax, bought a full Mcgard wheel installation kit spline drive with locking lug nuts. Should have done more research, oh well, spent to much money to turn back now. Does anyone know if shops will remove wheel spacers or is that something you have to do before hand?
And make sure the lugs on the spare are facing the proper way. I've seen a few people and videos were they put them in backwards and you will lose a wheel.
I wasn't never a big fan of those but maybe I'll think about it
I'm not a paid promoter of any kind from or for any wheel spacer company. I just wanted to spread light to some myths and realities. Thanks for watching👍
@@Bleepincoltyou have great information I really like your Channel
The nose of my scion and my xj are both narrower than the rear. The xb has 12mm spacer with longer studs. The xj has the good 1.5" spacers.
Interesting. I've found the front end to be ever so slightly wider on the front end of my Jeep cherokee xj stock, as well as most straight axle'd vehicles. I did a disc brake conversion in the rear and it still looks wider in the front with the rear wheels sticking an extra 1/8th out on either side.
The narrower rear axle is for turning radius.
@@jeepindave5464 The front is wider to clear suspension components at full lock. good example of this is leaf sprung front ends on old 4x4 trucks and jeeps. The rear isn't intentionally narrower per say, the front is intentionally wider though.
Great video
Thank you!
What about when you have to do a brake job?
I had 2 inch spacers on the Armada I lifted, so that way I could use the stock wheels and ad 33's. Definitely bad on the wheel bearings, but the spacers were surprisingly strong off-roading and I even ran at the drag strip. LOL at 100+ MPH I felt that the wheel bearing was gone.
Do you think it was any worse on wheel bearings than if you'd have bought aftermarket offset wheels that let your tires fit at full turn?
@@Bleepincolt I have lifted probably 30 plus jeeps at my old job and never had that issue with aftermarket wheels with proper offset. I feel using the stock wheels with spacers have more leverage and aided in the wear.
@@g-rod5199 crazy, I lost count years ago on how many vehicles I've lifted and built but didn't notice extra wear on a wheel bearing or unit bearing than any other offset wheel. Do you have anyway to show how it would cause more wear or stress on drivetrain parts? I'd be curious to see the information on it.
@@Bleepincolt yeah, that is a rough estimate. Lol I used to do it professionally and did wranglers, grand cherokees, RAM 2500's, 3500's and even some others. The majority was wranglers. But I think solid axles handle spacers better. The Armada is independent front and rear and causes a camber moment that can't be corrected. But I think that is probably the reason that it lead to premature bearing failure. Not a bad problem though, they were cheap for it and easy to do, and granted it was daily driven probably 100 miles a day for a year. And then I spent every moment offroad I could. Lol
Good information :)
Any validity to over 3/4” they are prone to failure?
Guess not, as soon as I wrote this you talked about width.
As long as the wheel spacer is made from quality parts it shouldn't be the fail point. But it's also good to remember that the wider the stance is the more leverage there is against the factory drivetrain parts.
I was hoping you'd at least touch on how they might affect the handling both on n off road n maybe do a side by side test n comparison on a vehicle but still good information
Yes I think it’s called scrub, it’s how your wheels actually turn on the vehicle. Basically they don’t just pivot they need to roll back or forward depending on the direction you turn. It’s hard on components and can mess with handling.
@@larryfogle3697 Yup, can be bad on steering. I think you check by turning the wheel while stationary, then looking at the marks on the ground. Chalk or paint may help to see the marks. I don't know if or how the rear would be affected tho.
My steering was ruined at first, not sure what happened but it got better, or something just got loose enough 😂 3” spacers.
Tire scrub radius- it gets bigger... and if your wheel opening is marginal, it’ll suck.
Most aftermarket wheels stick out farther than stock wheels. But sawzalls cure all woos.👌
@@Bleepincolt “wider axles” 😎
@@wmcompton "Just throw a 14 bolt under it and forget it". Always practical
@@Wooskii1 10.5 but yeah, I agree!
What is causing wheel bearings to have a short or shorter lifespan with wheel spacers, or is this another case of improper wheel spacers?
A wheel spacer is placing your rotational mass(tires) out farther away from the vehicle. But it really isn't any different than an aftermarket wheel that pushes the tire out as well.
I hear re torque a lot but if you use loctite aren’t you screwing with the loctite making it ineffective.
Only if I breaks free, if it doesn't move then you aren't harming the loctite. If it moves then you would want to remove that lugnut, re loctite it and re-torque👍
What about dually spacers?
Do you mean using dually spacers in place of an aftermarket spacer?
@@Bleepincolt no I mean keeping some space between duallies when going with bigger tires on the dually. I put 245/75R16 on my '93 chevy dually. There is barely a gap now with no load.
@@consaka1 gotcha, yes I've ran dually spacers before and installed them on lifted dually trucks with oversized tires. Same thing applies though, quality spacers, good mounting surfaces and proper torque.👍
@@Bleepincolt yeh I need like a half inch spacer and have had no luck finding them. Searches always turn up stuff for guys doing like this video. Either that or I'm worse at searching than I thought. Got any suggestions?
@@consaka1 only 1/2" isn't much. But there are spacers out there. The problem is then you're 100% committed to cutting down your wheel studs a lot but there has to be someone that makes quality bolt on 8 lug spacers that are thin. I've always used 1-1/4" spacers in that case.
When you change the center line of your suspension... bad idea. Expect a lot of undo wear on the steering.
But how is it any different than buying aftermarket wheels that stick out the same width? I believe larger tires, wheels, offset and driving style can add to premature wear but I don't see a difference if the tire sticks out 2" on the fender from aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers to gain that width. Every lifted vehicle usually needs some offset out to clear the larger tires.
@@Bleepincolt Buying larger tires, no problem. Changing the center line is the problem.
My old Jeep has 33"x10.5x15. But the wheels are 12.5 off set (memory??) to keep the tires in line.
😎👍
You forgot to say Do not spindle, fold, or mutilate!
For every video you watch saying spacers are safe, you’ll find another one saying they aren’t. So confusing!
Check out Full Send Alaskan Overlands jeep adventure!
Like your channel,do we have a chance to work with you?
Easy answer, never!
Can I run 6 inch spacers? Asking for a friend
Throw em on and send me a picture!! Haha
or you got a sweet ass deal on rims and tires and you're stubborn
🤣👍