I like the video, but sometimes you just have to concede you are over your heads and get some help with it. Find someone who used to run these and see if they can offer any advice besides sell it immediately so you aren't crippled.
im going to suggest a belt to stay on it or let it sit its full of ass whopping your not ready ,put it on your salt flat racer ,its more than anyone wants wore out or not
The cr500 is a bike totally deserving of a complete rebuild and restore. I really hope you boys put the time in to restore the bike. Love the content boys keep doing cars and cameras
@@oldschoolman1444 Are they really called Opal in the states? With an a? Here in germany they are spelled Opel with an e. I know that in england they call them Vauxhall.
@@thorstenhulser5008 yes and If I'm not mistaken the body was designed by the same person that did the Corvette. The Opal GT is known as the baby Corvette.
New reeds are a step in the right direction. Best advice I can give as a professional mechanic is if it doesn't run good on the stand, it isn't going to run better with a load on it. Stop making it harder on yourselves and strap that thing to the stand and get the basics sorted out like the coolant pressure and idle issue. Trying to drive and diagnose a machine when it wont even idle on its own is unnecessarily frustrating, even more so on something like the CR500 which is a bear to start even in good condition.
I have never seen so much clutch use on a CR-5. Thr clutch is for starting, not coasting. You'll oil up a plug letting it idle to much. Keep it in gear and revving hard. A CR-5 can sense fear, and will react to it. Basically, hang on tight and ring its neck. And yes, as 56yo who owned and raced a CR-5 back in the day, I am actually speaking from experience.
yes, 2 strokes need to be run at high rpm or they load up the plug. im saying the same thing the whole time. 1st gear and keep it singing, get the plug good and hot.
Also 56 Also raced years ago . Totally agree on over use of clutch . Stop revving it for the camera & thrash the bloody thing . It'll respect you & run better
you guys should keep an eye out for a granite surface plate. resurface that head at home, and your case halves, gasket surfaces ect. You'd probably love it for your small engine builds. Careful though its addicting. It has to be an actual surface plate though, granite counter tops and random pieces of glass aren't flat enough.
Or a flat piece of bullet proof glass. In trade school We did head lapping on an old side window off a 46 Ford georgia state patrol Governors transit car. It was fully bullet proof and when they broke it down the state sent the door glass to our school on request from our instructor.
if they want to do it cheap they could also just glue sandpaper to a wooden plate, and sand the cylinder. get smaller grits every 10 minutes of sanding and in an hour it will be smooth again. i did this with my 70cc 2stroke cylinder too and it worked fine, i sanded off more than 2 milimeters because i wanted a smaller squish.
There is absolutely zero chance of you removing 2mm of material and having a flat head afterwards using a piece of sand paper glued to wood. It may not have leaked but it was not flat. @@ultimateearrapechannel31
Awesome video. I owned a KTM 520. I had no idea it had a compression release. After nearly breaking a leg trying to kick start it, I figured it out. Hard lesson learned, lol
I've ridden many bikes in life from enduros to sport bikes to big baggers, and that KTM is the only one that ever scared me. It took a few rides before I opened it up.
The suspension won’t feel softer when you adjust the rebound and compression. The only way to adjust sag is with the preload adjustment on the spring. Compression and rebound on the reservoir will only effect the shock in its motions. The larger dial and the inner flat head screw are separate adjustments. One being rebound the other compression. I don’t know which is what though
As someone that's ripped around on 2 strokes for the first half of my life, I would highly recommend getting used to a 125 or maybe a 250 before you try to tame that 500. Not saying you guys are beginners on bikes, but that thing is a monster. Get you a CR or KX or RM or YZ 125 and get used to that and then you'll have a bit better skill set to tackle that beast. Just my 2 cents.
Skip the 125 and go straight to the 250. 125's are for kids. I was off of the YZ125's and onto a 250 by the time I was 12 or 13, and onto a Husq 390 by 16 or 17.
Taming the RED ROCKET, wait till you get up in the high rev range, just make sure it's pointing in the right direction before you fully commit, and some fast gear changes help... good luck guys
I've owned mine since I was 15. I'm 48 now and I still throw mine around like it's nothing. Just use to the power. These boys are scared of it. And when you throw fear in the mix with this type of bike bad thing happen. Either you go like a bad out of hell or you go slow and stay out of the power band which is going wreck this bike. It's not good for them. They are designed to be ran and ran hard.
So the silver your seeing in the oil is actually clutch basket material.if you look at the clutch basket,there will b grooves in it where the plates ride.also the reason your struggling with the clutch releasing properly.
As with any of the motocross bikes over 250cc, it's not about hammering the throttle, it's all about a smooth roll-on. I'm 60, and I'd take that bike on for a good hard spin. I spent a lot of time on 390's.
I recently picked up a 76 Yamaha IT400 a few weekends ago to wrench on over the winter. She's a bit rough like they always are but I'm gonna make it my own, trying to go Original NOS for a lot of the missing stuff would be way too expensive. Gonna try to do a Cafe Scrambler kind of deal with it. Now that I have the proper tools to take the engine apart properly as well as some new OE Yamaha seals for the second engine that came with it I can start collecting all of the needed parts. I'll finally be able to start working on my 81 YZ465 as well. 😁
@@Slane583 You are wrong sir. I own a cr500 Those bikes are meant to be ridden hard or they are not happy and you start to foul up things It loves going fast and hard. Smooth and slow no. Bad things start to happen. These boys are scared of it. When that happens you might as well sell the bike and get something they can handle. I had to learn the hard way. rebuilding my bike a few times before I realized how to properly ride the thing. A very expensive lesson to learn
@@draggerlane04090 I agree every big bore 2 stroke I have had you had to ride the dog outta it for it to run right if the front tire was on the ground you wasn’t doing it right
@@draggerlane04090I never heard that bike get on the pipe,everytime is coming on power they let out. I had a banshee that if just cruised it along it would run like dog shit foul plugs and load up
I have a 1993 yz125 and in the past ive had similar problems. When I bought the bike it was a bear to start and really would only bumbstart. I had weak and intermiten spark. How i diagnoses this and fixed it was by testing the resistance of the primary, secondary, and pickup coils on the stator. Also not a bad idea to give the ignition coil a test. Compare these readings in ohms to the specs in the manuel to see if you are within range. I had to solder on a new secondary coil. Bike started first kick and would idle all day. A few years later an issue happened to be caused by the pickup wire, Spark must be strong and timed correctly.
You are correct but I believe the spark is ok with this bike. With experence of owning a Cr500 33 years they are having a carb problem. The problem is that carb is meant for the track not for trails has a "4 cycle spot” from 1/8-1/4 throttle and then a big hit when it goes into 2 cycle above 1/4 throttle. It’s very difficult to tune out during the summer heat. Not a problem on the motocross track, but in the tight trails it’s a handful. They need a Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker as it’s easier to tune for a wide range of conditions
The thing I love with you guys is there's no macho man stuff, if someone drops a bike everyone is concerned until they know for sure their buddy is okay, if someone doesn't feel comfortable with a machine, that's cool it's just wholesome and respectful, makes me feel like the c&c boys are just good down to earth guys
It's been a while (the late 1970's) but I don't think you can anneal that copper gasket with just a propane torch. Last time I did that was with a metal furnace (looks like a ceramic kiln) and tongs and you had to get the copper cherry red/orange (think blacksmith) before it would change colors after about 30 to 60 secs. then quench it in water. All to soften it so you could work it without tearing it. I'm pretty sure that is what they are asking you to do to prep that gasket.
Not that you guys read comments but do you realize those Keihin PJ carburetors have their own unique way of adjusting the idle? There is no idle screw like you guys are used to, you turn the knob on the choke lever to adjust the idle. Look closely on the carburetor under the choke plunger and it's written there on the carb body. In your first video from months ago when charles was cleaning the carb it appears you are missing the top of the choke plunger you would normally turn to adjust the idle.
You guys need a DocZ solo starter to help you with bikes and minibikes. I have one to start my vintage flat trackers at the track and to help at home. Works great and saves my leg.
is a motorbike that absolutely deserves a complete rebuild and restoration. would have figured out the hole pattern of the old head gasket for the water jacket on the copper pad and used a Dremel and file to ensure standard water flow . Love the content where the guys keep making cars and cameras
You might want to check what plug you have and make sure you have the right heat range. Finish tuning the carb. Then it should start and idle better. Two strokes take a lot of tuning. Starting with a smaller bike would have been better but you guys are getting it done. Good job.
The new copper gasket coolant holes are too small...you can see the big oval coolant holes in the "old" gasket. Those small holes are restricting coolant flow and thusly raising the pressure. Make the new gasket match the old one and try again.
I'm sure the people that designed it would have made the holes the same size as the cylinder if it was better . There's a reason it's like it is. Leave it alone
@@mixingasnhaulinass I have done 2 strokes for over 25 years and most of that on Hondas and the clones... The hole IS too small. They (The people who made it) know it is and will tell you to make it bigger. Those gaskets fit more than one engine. Don't give advise if you dont KNOW...in this case I DO know what I'm saying.
@@texastyrannyresponseteam794 Yeah that HARDEN'S the copper. Not softening it , which is what you want for a head gasket. Watch any knife making show , they quench to harden it. To anneal metal , which keeps it in a softer state , you heat it and let it cool naturally . No quench .
Yeah, they definitely didn't, at least the first time. Maybe Ike did it right the second time but they didn't show it. Also, it should be held at that high temp for a little while so allow it to restructure throughout the whole gasket. Doing it too fast will have inconsistent results, and basically makes this whole process pointless in the given application.
Use two fingers or your middle finger on that clutch to maximize your grip. Takes some getting used to but it most definitely helps be able to handle the ride. And squeeze the bike with your knees when sitting and standing. Keeping your elbows out at a 90 and a 45 will keep you on top of the bike and more engaged as well.
Great video guys. I have an 82 YZ 490 which I've owned since 87. If I try and ride that bike like you guys are riding that 500 without winding it up most of the time it will load up with oil and it gets to where it's real hard to start or you can't start it at all without taking the spark plug out and cleaning it off starting it and then holding it wide open till it cleans the the oil out of the inside of the motor I went through that several times till I learned to ride at wide open throttle. Be careful on that thing. Love your content. I'll chat with you guys about it when I catch you at Pate in April. I seriously thought about buying that bike myself
and they will never run right unless pegged out huh they love the rpms. Been through this many guys are like whats wrong lol go faster thats whats wrong lol its a racing machine not a cruiser
right its still awesome i love to watch cause its how i was and am but they still have no clue whats beast they ride upon lol Ike knows but is hesitant and john is too curious still and charles knows lol @@kwslife116
Also to answer the end of the video. 2 strokes are super funny. Fuel ratio is super important. Check the plug. Plugs are good for only so long in 2 strokes and it would make sense as to why it started great then got worse over time plug was fouling. Especially if coolant was making its way to the piston. Like Issac always says keep it simple stupid. That motto has saved me a ton. Flywheel weight is great for stalling and will make the bike smoother by slowing down the revs. I don’t know about starts but good for slower riding. And obviously a lighter flywheel will do the opposite. It’ll rev up super quick and still easier. Reeds wouldn’t hurt always good to have a fresh set. I don’t remember if y’all have now but check your jetting make sure it’s correct. Could go back to the starting issue. I believe, I could be wrong there’s adjustment make sure it’s 1 1/4 turn out that’s the starting point for pilot jets. Manual might say otherwise.
Might I suggest that the thing you are talking about is a decompression lever. I had a Yammy TT500 which had a decompression lever, I didn't use it in the end as I was heavy enough to kick it over from top dead centre... That TT500 was an awesome 4 stroke beast.
I would have traced out the old head gasket's hole pattern for the water jacket on the copper one and used a Dremel and files to ensure standard water flow. The new one seems to be pretty restrictive. Good catch on the Visegrip gouge.
I came to the comment section just to see if I was the only one thinking this or not. But yes my thoughts exactly on tracing the copper gasket with the old and make grooves for water jackets.
Restrictive water flow is actually more beneficial in a cooling system, it helps transfer more thermal energy. Common practice across almost all engines. Restrictive flow shouldn’t cause pressure in the cooling system, that’ll be compression leaking from the cylinder into the coolant passages. Poor seal. Again nothing to do with restrictive coolant flow.
I never quench a copper gasket after annealing it. As it was explained to me, the copper swells when heated and returns 99% back down to size after cooling slowly. I think the quench hardens it which is no bueno.
In the case of the fairly pure copper it does not undergo a phase change - it is a face-centered-cubic (FCC) metal at high temperature and an FCC metal at room temperature. As a result, quenching the copper has no impact on its stiffness, but the quick change in size (it shrinks more than the oxide layer) causes the oxide to flake off. The key to annealing is to get it hot enough, long enough so that new more perfect grains (crystals) form and grow to an optimal size. Too small and the copper is stiff because there are too many grain boundaries. Too large and the grains span across and the properties are inconsistent. I have not researched it, but my educated guess is that the optimal time/temperature will depend upon the thickness. Steel (an iron-carbon alloy) undergoes a fairly dramatic phase change upon cooling. At high temperature iron is a body-centered-cubic (BCC) metal while it is FCC at room temperature (there is an additional very high temperature FCC phase that is not part of this discussion). The carbon will fit into the gaps in the BCC structure, but not the FCC structure. During slow cooling (traditional annealing) the carbon can move around and form iron-carbide (Fe3C) and let the iron forms its FCC structure. During quenching the carbon cannot move around and the BCC structure distorts into a body-centered-tetragonal (BCT) structure which is very hard and brittle. The steel is then tempered at a moderate temperature to allow the carbon to form very small bits of Fe3C with small FCC iron grains to give a hard, but strong metal. Now to make things more complicated we have the aluminum alloys that contain a few percent of different alloying elements. At high temperature they form an FCC solid solution that can be quenched with no phase change. They are then reheated to a moderate temperature (tempered) to cause the alloying elements and aluminum to form compounds just like we saw for steel with Fe3C, but these compounds are a bit softer. All of this effort is to control the motion of dislocations (imperfections) in the metal structure. These dislocations are like putting a bump into the edge of a large rug and pushing the bump across the rug which is far easier than trying to pull the entire rug across the floor at once. It is the same in deforming a metal - the dislocation is far easier to move than trying to move two pieces of the metal past each other at one time. During bending or other cold working (like drawing the wire to diameter) lots of dislocations are put into the metal. This is like having lots of cars on the road in the city center with the stop lights out - grid lock develops and it becomes harder and harder for the cars to move - same with the dislocations. In copper the dislocations become tightly entangled fairly quickly so the metal work hardens quickly and becomes much stiffer. In aluminum they do not entangle as quickly and can even self adjust a bit at room temperature due to the lower melting point of aluminum. As a result, aluminum does not work harden as much or as quickly. The high temperature annealing allows the formation and growth of new, more perfect grains without the dislocations. A bit like waiting until 9 pm to go home to avoid the gridlock.
Just saying after only watching half the video, you need to run it at much higher revs while driving for a high performance 2stroke to run well ;) it sounds like a 4 stroke at low revs ;) but it sounds ok at idle as well
When the head came off it looked suspiciously clean as well as the top of the piston. My experience with old 2 strokes is lots of carbon build up in a pretty short period of time. I would regularly pull the head to scrape the carbon. Introducing a little water into the cylinder will clean the carbon off too. That is what I suspect was the reason for the clean head and piston top.
You guys are doing a great job! Taking an old Legend and bringing it back to life.....even if it's a pain in the ass! Can't wait to see the end product. I think this is the machine will take #1 on the leader board for fastest lap hands down! It's just learning how to ride this machine without killing yourself.....🥴
TO PUT IT BLUNTY YOU GUYS ARE CRAZY. BEFORE MY SON WAS KILLED 20 YEARS AGO. WE USED TO DO THE SAME KIND OF STUFF. I ENJOY WATCHING YOU DO THIS STUFF EVEN THOUGH IM 70 .I WOULD STILL LIKE TO DO IT THANKS ALOT FOR THE GREAT VIDEOS.
That decompression thing certainly makes a huge difference, much less likely to end up with all three of you hopping about on one leg in pain now... :P
I used to race a 85 cr500, alot of fun, they work better if you add a flywheel weight. They are circular and weld to the outside of the flywheel. It makes them easier to start and keeps it from stalling at low speeds. Also the suspension is horrible, find a racetech dealer and have the rebuild the fork and shock.
Love large cc 2 strokes. 2 broken collar bones, a concussion, and a foot that hurts everytime it gets cold.from 30 yrs ago. Worth every minute i spent with them.
clean the pilot circuit in the carb body, and it'll idle and run at low rpms. all the air ports in the carb probably need a good cleaning too. if you have to turn the pilot screw out more than 2 turns to idle, the pilot jet is too small. if you have to turn it in to less than 1 turn, pilot is too big. start with that, and make sure the tank is vented properly and float level is set right.
That’s backwards and incorrect. 😂 😂 It’s an air screw on those carbs. Turning the screw out increases air not fuel. More than 3 turns out the pilot is too large. And if it’s only half a turn out the pilot is a bit small but will still operate fine if you ride it like a 2 stroke and not a 4 stroke. If your engine braking and keeping the clutch out going down large hills then you might want a larger pilot if the air screws only half a turn out
from my experience as over 30 years motorcycle mechanic you really need to heat up the coppergaskets very very well to make the copper way more soft to seal correctly and i love how Ike also used copper spray on the headgasket... i do this also on new metal/more layer headgaskets and never ever had one failing or burning on the aluminum parts.... keep on guys i watch all your episodes every time. simply love your friendship and see you have fun and wrench together 🙃🙂👌
I've never ridden any dirtbike over 250 and only could imagine the power that 500 puts out even in 1985. The bike sounds so good. Keep the 500 content coming guys!
I would try different oil. Not oil is equal. As far as idling goes we were constantly adjusting it from the throttle. The reeds do change as it get hot. Something I’m worried about, it was very common to cut the head and run race gas. This is the path I think your on. Something else that used to happen was when they get hot the staters got weak. Sitting and idling is bad for heat those radiators don’t have fans so a liquid cooled engine gets hot faster. I’ve actually have never seen a stock one. When riding you need to keep a steady throttle two stroke can flood out fast when you let off the throttle. The third gear a whole shot is for sand, and it’s amazing. You’re real close. Also, that is way too fast for your track. Gas and oil is best place to start. You could run your track in just second and third keeping the rpm’s up. Thank you it brings back so many memories. I had a friend that build one and he couldn’t start so he let me ride it because I could. I had so much fun.
You don't quench the head gasket in water when you anneal it . Just let it cool by itself . Quenching it hardens the copper . Which you don't want . Put the head on some plate glass with oiled emery paper and figure 8 it to flatten out the surface .
Not the case with copper. Quenching has no effect on the hardness since it's an FCC at high temp and at room temp. All quenching does is gets rid of the oxidation.
If you have to remove the cylinder head again, consider checking and setting, if needed, the squish band. Check the how to videos. Very simple and worthwhile to do. Different thicknesses of head gaskets are available to aid in setting the squish band to proper clearance.
Are you reheating the gasket before reinstall? Try putting it in a pot bringing it to a boil and then installing it. I never did the whole quench thing but I've reused them many many times.
Issac, you are my hero!! GenX for that, balls to the wall, no hold back, full send, attitude of pure adventure no matter the situation!!! Willing to do anything because it’s totally worth it, even when you leave the choke on!! LOL. I would watch a video of just a hot lap with that beauty. The testicular fortitude required to just start that thing is enough to make that video a hit.
When you bump start that thing, it’s best to put it in 3rd gear and pop the clutch…. The rear tire won’t lock up and drag the way it dies in 1st. You’ll find it starts much easier.
Check your clutch baskets for notches worn into it. It’s pretty common on the 500’s. They grip the plates and make them not work good. I’ve had them built up and machined back down before but now days I’m sure you can order one cheaper.
I always use a special stud extractor too; attachment on my socket ratchet, when removing or installing studs on my own or other folks engines. Only a "Kevin" would use Mole / Vice grips to remove a stud. I've had to put right a few 2 stroke motors that have been "Kevined" over the past 4 decades. The most recent is a 1978 CZ250 with the wrong specification right crank journal bearing, which the engine still managed to somehow run with, despite the tightness and drag. It was "fun" removing it without damaging the crank. May I suggest using a small piece of tinfoil as a patch, under the copper gasket, to temporarily fix the damaged sealing surface.
You definitely need a redemption video this one was tuff lol John needs to stop skipping leg 🦵 day at the gym and try without choke on 🤣 I learned how to ride on 500 2strokes if you don’t have the little tricks down you will break your leg , only compression release iv ever needed was on a bulltaco 350 2stroke and that was only because the kickstart is on the left side - would love to see a update when you fix all the gremlins
Had a 91Cr500 ,mine had 2 reliefs about 1/2 tall above the exhaust port to bleed off compression as the piston came up.I had mine bored which removed most them.I reground them back in with a sand roll on a Dremel.Different years had different base and head gasket thicknesses. Put a set of Boysen power reeds,they're cheap & work good.Try a little smaller pilot jet to help adjustability of idle .
You honestly have no idea because you guys haven't gotten into the power band really every time you get close you let out that thing will do third and fourth gear launches in the dirt soft dirt dry dirt that bike does not care but you are going to kill it if you keep bogging it the way you are It needs to be opened up and revved to the max if you don't do that that motor won't last
Heyyyy guys y’all need to replace the clutch basket. It’s probably part of the reason that the clutch is sticking. Once you replace the clutch basket watch a video on how to properly adjust a dirt bike clutch lever. I say you should replace the clutch basket because if you watch the footage from the last cr500 video in the clutch basket there are grooves that run parallel to the clutch plates and that can cause the clutch to hang up way more than it’s supposed to. Also the clutch on this bike is supposed to stick a little, enough to notice it in first gear even in brand new condition with the lever properly adjusted. 👍
This reminds me of the 1986 WR400 husqvarna 2 stroke 6 speed I had. The thing would pull a wheelie in every gear and was just stupid fast. It was built race ready from the factory.
You guys always make me nervous when you play with this beast!!! Also, even though you didn't show it in any great detail, I think you needed to heat that copper a bit more before you quenched it. I've annealed copper pipe a many times for bending and you can really apply some heat to it. You won't hurt it at all.
They didn't even get it close to annealing temperature (cherry red). Also, you don't need to cool it rapidly in water either, but that's probably easier to write instructions for.
Select the head cap for any warping due to the temperature developed when the chainsaw decompressor was welded. Place the cap on a flat glass and with a gap gauge check for any gap. Keep going you are strong no one is perfect we all learn from our mistakes greetings from Greece
Charles, you really made me laugh when you thanked John for installing the power band lol. It reminded me of a kid in high school I knew roughly around 1986 or 87. He was constantly bullshitting about bikes and racing them and so on but he could never, ever come out with any of us that actually did ride street and dirt bikes. One time he actually told us that he was waiting for a new power band to come into the bike shop in town as his broke in a race lol. Years and years later he wound up getting a job at the factory I was working at and one day at lunch around the picnic table he started to tell everyone a story about how he got caught riding his Harley across the Canadian border from the US with his front forks packed with that illegal white stuff lol. I literally spit my pop out and burst into laughter as I just couldn't contain it any longer lol. Thanks for the flashback memory you guys caused to pop into the front of my brain. It really made me laugh again. The CR 500 was an absolute insane but incredibly fun bike to rip around on. Nothing from any of the other manufacturers compared to in my humble opinion. A friend of mine had a newer one that was all set up for ice racing and I got to mess around with it a few times in my early 20s out on Georgian Bay here in Parry Sound Ontario. It was a shit ton of fun and I wasn't quite as concerned about wiping out as for the most part you'd just fall off and slide until you came to a stop. Of course in my teen years and early to mid 20s there was no such thing as moderation or careful riding but at least there was a significant better chance of no injuries on the ice. It was a completely different experience on the ice and so, so, so much fun. I so wish I could hop on one today but young Paul would surface and most likely kill old Paul lol. You guys take care there and keep safe. Thanks again for all the fantastic content.
We used to turn our electric stove tops to high and heat our copper head gaskets on them 'till they turned cherry red. Never quenched them because we preferred to have them a little soft. I've also had to remove damage from a cylinder/cylinder head mating surface and was away from my shop. I used a sheet of thick glass (from a sliding glass door) to tape the carbide paper to and moved the cylinder across it in a figure eight pattern. The glass is straight as you can get in a pinch and keeps the paper flat. Did y'all know there are starter motor kits available for your bike?
Pull starting a bike you make one wrap around the Handel bar then lay the slack end on your left grip so it is under your palm. After you are running you can clutch and let go of the rope. This this will let it slack and go free. Then you are no longer connected to the pull vehicle. Take it easy and let the bike warm up before ripping it. The higher the gear the better.
The cr500 was wonderful when everything was new, honda didn't fail with these and they were reliable with proper maintenance. Choke was a little pain so keep on it when idle which didn't like to idle anyway because it's a 2 stroke race engjne
Charles just needs a smaller bike to start using a hand clutch with. An xr80r would be nice. But once you're used to snapping up and down gears, you'll want more power. Admittedly that frame is enormous and itll take a while to get used to riding 4 feet off the ground. Personally I think cvts take half the fun out of riding and driving. Save the manual
I was riding YZ490's at 15 years old and nothing comes close to the big two strokes they command respect. Rode a CR500RF four stroke and it was an animal but two strokes are king. You guys have a nugget there!
Pull starting a bike is sketchy. Build a sturdy axle stand and spin the tire. There are many ways, like rubbing rubber with another bike, and quickly unwinding a recovery strap that's wrapped around the tire backwards. That wreck was the front tire ran over the strap that was pulling the forks, so it pulled steering…which was the wrong way anyway! It should have been attached to the frame!
Not to bag on Charles too bad, but what makes the cr500 appealing is that the bike is trying to kill you 😅 you just can't be faint hearted to ride it or it'll drop you like a bad habit
it worse when they run like shit so you run the throttle open and go from a bog or load up into the pipe, if they could learn how to set up a carb properly these bikes are not nearly as terrifying, mine runes crisp and doesnt 4 stroke at all even cruising at 20mph at 1/8 throttle
remnants from a granite countertop or tile place makes a really good flat plate and a little spray glue to stick on sand paper makes that a bit easier, or a wet stone that is just used for such things works well, just make sure you file the corners a tiny bit so you don't have a corner that will gouge
Get an actual surfacing plate. The number of heads that come into the shop I work at that have been screwed up by home resurfacing is massive. Not quite as many as Subaru heads (lol), but a lot.
@@FuckGoogle502 yes pulling the block/jug and using the proper equipment is always best buttttt, like what was going on here and well during my last SR20 and VQ35 build that wasn't a option, I still drive the VQ and use it to pull a trailer, think the SR is still running sold the car after driving it for a couple of years and haven't heard that it died yet. You know when the machine shops are 6 weeks out and you need the engine running in 3 days things need to be done.
These bikes have probably killed several hundred people just from taking people places they weren't meant to go. Up hills we weren't meant to climb lol.
I've built many 500, 250, & 125 race motors and you don't need a "professional" to do it. The proper way to "lap" a cylinder or head (and any person can do it) is to get a granite surface plate, BUT, (and that's a big but) you don't "have to have" a granite surface plate. You can easily get by with a nice thick piece of glass. 14" x 14" is a good size. Tape down a full sheet of 400 grit and gently but evenly, push the cylinder in figure 8's. Just a couple passes then check where you're at. Switch to 600 grit and make a few more passes. Then 1000 grit and a few more passes until all the gouges are gone and the surface looks clean. Obviously, you need to remove the cylinder to do this. There is no other way. I'm a retired pro ATV racer and I give you guys a lot of crap on this channel, but it's only because it sometimes drives me crazy watching some of the cringe things you do. Like, I knew Ike was riding around with the choke on. I could hear it the whole time. I would've mentioned it after the video, but then saw that you finally realized it too. Also, running over the tow strap when bump starting the CR...LMAO. Another thing is, you don't listen to people in the comments. The last video on the CR 500 several people told you guys how to turn up the idle. It seems you STILL haven't figured it out. Turn the choke knob counter clockwise to raise the rpm, and clockwise to lower it. Just keep turning until it changes. Oh, and btw Charles, you never, and I mean NEVER, "get used to" riding a CR 500. Good choice on the Boyesen reeds just make sure they sit flat on the reed cage and use Locktite on the screws. Dump the copper head gasket. I never liked those. Go with the OEM style gasket. You can't go wrong with them. A heavier flywheel will definitely help prevent stalling as much and even out the power a little, but I really don't think that's going to help you start it that much easier. Last thing: The suspension. Do yourselves a favor. Pull the forks and rear shock and send it to a reputable suspension tuner. Be honest about your weight and riding ability. What you'll get back will be a dream to ride on.
If you guys want to get the bike perfect, hit up Michael Sabo. Dude can make any bike or atv look brand new and run flawlessly. Would be awesome to see you all do a video together. My childhood best friend had a cr500, we could hardly ever kick start it. We always just roll started it, thing was a beast
Nice to see vids about playing with an 85 cr500r. That's what my bike is, and mine ain't perfect either. On a real hot day this summer, it was jetted a bit too rich to clean out, and the front brake was dragging just a bit. It still went good enough to get me the AMA National Hillclimb Vintage class championship number 1 plate. Didn't think I'd ever see one of those in my lifetime. I love the compression release you put on. Adding one to mine this winter.
there's no need to be so sensitive. He wasn't being snobby at all. It's true. These guys seem terrified of this bike. Charles won't even ride the damn thing. Some of us wouldn't even say no to a litre 2-stroke if given the chance. Some of us are just built different. @@Toolness1
love the CR 500 content boys...although, when your trying to pull start or even tow a bike of any kind, ya really need to pull from the foot peg on the bike being towed. this enables the rider to have full control over steering as opposed to fighting the forks moving when that is your tow point. It feels alot less like death when youre already scared of the beast that is a CR 500
I live in Georgia. I own an 85 CR500 I have owned it since I was 15 years old(48 now). It still runs like it's brand new. If you are looking to get rid of it. I would be willing to buy it from you if the price is fair. That crank case is going to have to be cracked open and have the shift forks replace as that is why you are having a hard time shifting into first and sometimes in other gears. The jug needs to be resurfaced and probably all new internal bearing done. Shoot me a price that you feel is fair and I'll drive up. Oh and your copper head gasket was for the wrong year. that copper gasket was for 1990-2001. And your idling problem is the carb. The problem is that carb is meant for the track not for trails has a "4 cycle spot” from 1/8-1/4 throttle and then a big hit when it goes into 2 cycle above 1/4 throttle. It’s very difficult to tune out during the summer heat. Not a problem on the motocross track, but in the tight trails it’s a handful. You need a Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker as it’s easier to tune for a wide range of conditions. I have a few of them if you are interested brand new never used. I keep them around just in case I need to replace the one I'm using.
170 keihin main jetting seeing as you're running that open element rather than the oem oil soaked filter,and step the slow jet up to a 68 to 70 and it will start quicker,run smoother at idle,and respond better at middle to wot.. Thats what we did to them back in the 80s and 90s along with aftermarket expansion chambers and stingers/mufflers before we would tear into them,get custom stroked cranks,rods,cylinder sleeves for big bores,higher compression pistons,aftermarket reed cages and reeds,and on and on...
So, as an old guy who actually rode one when new, they are beast!! They do not like putting, they foul out of you putt them around,on or off! Even a ding in that pipe will effect performance . As soon as you dial it in, it will be a monster!! Those are the bikes that started the stadium huge jumps and pretty much an unstoppable force on the track. Wise to fear it, it will bite you fast! All that said, so much fun!!!!!😂
2 stroke basics.. If its hard to start cold, More then likely Crank seals, Carb boot or other rubber seals if your sure all other basic checks (compression, fuel, spark) are correct; Specially on old two strokes that have been sitting. Having trouble starting after engine is stalled hot is called (hot start) and is a issue of flooding the engine during the stall. im an owner of a Kx500 and these bike can be a bit cold blooded on starts. Keep in mind you haven't even started getting the bike on the pipe, That is where the fun just starts. Good luck and have fun with it.
"Keep in mind you haven't even started getting the bike on the pipe", I agree with u 100% (they are going to be shaking when) powerband hit's mid 3rd pull's like hitting a nitrous button
A bit of JB Weild in the gouging will help after a good cleaning. Well it helped with a old 200cc hond 3wheeler that had been trashed by 3 different owners before we got it. My cousins ran it that way for a few years and I had it a few years after getting from them. It was still running when I sold it still with the JB.
Hey guys love the show keep it up . Remember that cr 500 likes the rpms it's a 2 stroke . You will find it easier to ride up on the power band .I know it's a beast Ive owned one but give it a try and stay off the clutch .
I normally really look forward to your content. But as someone who was a Motorcycle Technician in the 80's, owned, and rode large bore two stroke dirt bikes all the time. Seeing you all struggle with things every rider fully understands is painful. I never could enjoy I love Lucy because it makes her look pathetic. This gave me the same feeling. No one knows how to start a bike, no one knows how to bump start a bike, no one knows how to seal a two stroke. Clutch sticks but no one spends 5 minutes de-glazing the plates. Most importantly, when you use 3/4 throttle for 1.5 seconds and fully close the throttle, it is not a hole shot. All I saw every single rider do is run the engine so slow it will foul plugs. The best ride still consisted of the shortest applications of throttle I have ever witnessed. Stick to the air cooled minis, your all pretty good at that, and it's not embarrassing whatsoever.
Back of the water pump housing corrodes leaving pinholes through into the crank area which pressurizes the cooling system. The magneto and electrics are on the other end of the crank and the engine is earthed, turning the coolant into an electrolyte that eats aluminium. Remove impeller, brake clean the area behind it, and then press JB weld or a similar product into the pinholes with your finger then sand smooth after it dries so the impeller spins freely. This is a common problem on older Hondas, I've fixed two CR125s and a 250 that had this exact problem. As for riding it, put your big boy pants on and just send it.
Yes brov, impressive old bus 🚌....you need to change out the clutch, release bearing, (or if fitted, the clutch master cylinder)....and change the clutch cable....hope that helps. Respect 🙏
He most likely didnt anneal the head gasket properly. It really didnt seem hot enough. The heat is what does the annealing. Do it again but add more heat. Dont be afraid of getting it hot. The softer it is the better it will seal when torqued properly.
Hope you guys liked the video! I love using Ipsos iSay to earn rewards! Click my link:www.inflcr.co/SHJVM #IpsosPartner@IpsosiSayCommunity
I like the video, but sometimes you just have to concede you are over your heads and get some help with it.
Find someone who used to run these and see if they can offer any advice besides sell it immediately so you aren't crippled.
Loved it, thank you for sharing your time with us.
im going to suggest a belt to stay on it or let it sit its full of ass whopping your not ready ,put it on your salt flat racer ,its more than anyone wants wore out or not
Guys, that coper was not annealed properly. All the best from Serbia.
Little advice. You use 2nd or even 3rd gear to roll start it 😂
The cr500 is a bike totally deserving of a complete rebuild and restore. I really hope you boys put the time in to restore the bike. Love the content boys keep doing cars and cameras
They do need to step up the cars part of their title however
I'd like to see what's up with the Opal GT !!
@@oldschoolman1444 Are they really called Opal in the states? With an a? Here in germany they are spelled Opel with an e. I know that in england they call them Vauxhall.
I would definitely watch a series where they completely restored it.
@@thorstenhulser5008 yes and If I'm not mistaken the body was designed by the same person that did the Corvette. The Opal GT is known as the baby Corvette.
New reeds are a step in the right direction. Best advice I can give as a professional mechanic is if it doesn't run good on the stand, it isn't going to run better with a load on it. Stop making it harder on yourselves and strap that thing to the stand and get the basics sorted out like the coolant pressure and idle issue. Trying to drive and diagnose a machine when it wont even idle on its own is unnecessarily frustrating, even more so on something like the CR500 which is a bear to start even in good condition.
I have never seen so much clutch use on a CR-5. Thr clutch is for starting, not coasting. You'll oil up a plug letting it idle to much. Keep it in gear and revving hard. A CR-5 can sense fear, and will react to it.
Basically, hang on tight and ring its neck. And yes, as 56yo who owned and raced a CR-5 back in the day, I am actually speaking from experience.
yes, 2 strokes need to be run at high rpm or they load up the plug. im saying the same thing the whole time. 1st gear and keep it singing, get the plug good and hot.
Feed her all the onions
Also 56
Also raced years ago .
Totally agree on over use of clutch .
Stop revving it for the camera & thrash the bloody thing .
It'll respect you & run better
I agree. That thing should just scream UP the RPMs. That's when it's happy.
I see it on lots of mericas tube😂
you guys should keep an eye out for a granite surface plate. resurface that head at home, and your case halves, gasket surfaces ect. You'd probably love it for your small engine builds. Careful though its addicting. It has to be an actual surface plate though, granite counter tops and random pieces of glass aren't flat enough.
I was gonna say that myself ,I do the same
Or a flat piece of bullet proof glass. In trade school We did head lapping on an old side window off a 46 Ford georgia state patrol Governors transit car. It was fully bullet proof and when they broke it down the state sent the door glass to our school on request from our instructor.
I've surfaced a head on a thick piece of glass. Works just fine, better than the block of aluminum and sandpaper they used.
if they want to do it cheap they could also just glue sandpaper to a wooden plate, and sand the cylinder. get smaller grits every 10 minutes of sanding and in an hour it will be smooth again. i did this with my 70cc 2stroke cylinder too and it worked fine, i sanded off more than 2 milimeters because i wanted a smaller squish.
There is absolutely zero chance of you removing 2mm of material and having a flat head afterwards using a piece of sand paper glued to wood. It may not have leaked but it was not flat. @@ultimateearrapechannel31
Awesome video. I owned a KTM 520. I had no idea it had a compression release. After nearly breaking a leg trying to kick start it, I figured it out. Hard lesson learned, lol
f'n OUCH!
For sure
Man I been there done that 😂
So was you afraid of it or did you actually just let her rip lol
I've ridden many bikes in life from enduros to sport bikes to big baggers, and that KTM is the only one that ever scared me. It took a few rides before I opened it up.
The suspension won’t feel softer when you adjust the rebound and compression. The only way to adjust sag is with the preload adjustment on the spring. Compression and rebound on the reservoir will only effect the shock in its motions. The larger dial and the inner flat head screw are separate adjustments. One being rebound the other compression. I don’t know which is what though
As someone that's ripped around on 2 strokes for the first half of my life, I would highly recommend getting used to a 125 or maybe a 250 before you try to tame that 500. Not saying you guys are beginners on bikes, but that thing is a monster. Get you a CR or KX or RM or YZ 125 and get used to that and then you'll have a bit better skill set to tackle that beast. Just my 2 cents.
They have road them before.
I think they are more XR guys.....an XR400 would be perfect for them
Sorry to say they don't have the balls to handle 2 strokes
Skip the 125 and go straight to the 250. 125's are for kids. I was off of the YZ125's and onto a 250 by the time I was 12 or 13, and onto a Husq 390 by 16 or 17.
When I started riding at 7 I went on the 65 then 85 then 125 then 250 then 500 a few years i n between each one tho 😂
@@hemidart7 they have the balks to handle 2 strokes.
Taming the RED ROCKET, wait till you get up in the high rev range, just make sure it's pointing in the right direction before you fully commit, and some fast gear changes help... good luck guys
I was going to say they need to open it up it has much much more to show you!!
I've owned mine since I was 15. I'm 48 now and I still throw mine around like it's nothing. Just use to the power. These boys are scared of it. And when you throw fear in the mix with this type of bike bad thing happen. Either you go like a bad out of hell or you go slow and stay out of the power band which is going wreck this bike. It's not good for them. They are designed to be ran and ran hard.
@@draggerlane04090well said. Those things dont like a closed throttle
So the silver your seeing in the oil is actually clutch basket material.if you look at the clutch basket,there will b grooves in it where the plates ride.also the reason your struggling with the clutch releasing properly.
You guys might want to check the water pump housing and the seal.
Exactly what I was thinking to. They're notorious for corroding out. A little JB weld and clean up will do the trick.
@@prophez23its already corroded out and they jb welded it. Could be where the pressure is getting into the cooling system.
Check itt
Maybe see what water has gone into the crankcase oil too... Milky?
@@Mountain_Bike_Archaeology it had in earlier video
As with any of the motocross bikes over 250cc, it's not about hammering the throttle, it's all about a smooth roll-on. I'm 60, and I'd take that bike on for a good hard spin. I spent a lot of time on 390's.
I recently picked up a 76 Yamaha IT400 a few weekends ago to wrench on over the winter. She's a bit rough like they always are but I'm gonna make it my own, trying to go Original NOS for a lot of the missing stuff would be way too expensive. Gonna try to do a Cafe Scrambler kind of deal with it.
Now that I have the proper tools to take the engine apart properly as well as some new OE Yamaha seals for the second engine that came with it I can start collecting all of the needed parts. I'll finally be able to start working on my 81 YZ465 as well. 😁
the IT400 is a great bike, first dualsport with some real suspension travel, bigger tank than the DT, wish they were street legal here@@Slane583
@@Slane583 You are wrong sir. I own a cr500 Those bikes are meant to be ridden hard or they are not happy and you start to foul up things It loves going fast and hard. Smooth and slow no. Bad things start to happen. These boys are scared of it. When that happens you might as well sell the bike and get something they can handle. I had to learn the hard way. rebuilding my bike a few times before I realized how to properly ride the thing. A very expensive lesson to learn
@@draggerlane04090 I agree every big bore 2 stroke I have had you had to ride the dog outta it for it to run right if the front tire was on the ground you wasn’t doing it right
@@draggerlane04090I never heard that bike get on the pipe,everytime is coming on power they let out. I had a banshee that if just cruised it along it would run like dog shit foul plugs and load up
Dude Charles is a legend He's always worried And he was right on John when he fell And Isaac when he smacked the tree What a Guy Charles
He's definitely Johnny on the spot...Charles seems to be a decent human being...yeah...
John and Isaac couldn’t have found a better addition to the crew than Charles.
Charles is cool as hell
I have a 1993 yz125 and in the past ive had similar problems. When I bought the bike it was a bear to start and really would only bumbstart. I had weak and intermiten spark. How i diagnoses this and fixed it was by testing the resistance of the primary, secondary, and pickup coils on the stator. Also not a bad idea to give the ignition coil a test. Compare these readings in ohms to the specs in the manuel to see if you are within range. I had to solder on a new secondary coil. Bike started first kick and would idle all day. A few years later an issue happened to be caused by the pickup wire, Spark must be strong and timed correctly.
You are correct but I believe the spark is ok with this bike. With experence of owning a Cr500 33 years they are having a carb problem. The problem is that carb is meant for the track not for trails has a "4 cycle spot” from 1/8-1/4 throttle and then a big hit when it goes into 2 cycle above 1/4 throttle. It’s very difficult to tune out during the summer heat. Not a problem on the motocross track, but in the tight trails it’s a handful. They need a Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker as it’s easier to tune for a wide range of conditions
The thing I love with you guys is there's no macho man stuff, if someone drops a bike everyone is concerned until they know for sure their buddy is okay, if someone doesn't feel comfortable with a machine, that's cool it's just wholesome and respectful, makes me feel like the c&c boys are just good down to earth guys
It's been a while (the late 1970's) but I don't think you can anneal that copper gasket with just a propane torch. Last time I did that was with a metal furnace (looks like a ceramic kiln) and tongs and you had to get the copper cherry red/orange (think blacksmith) before it would change colors after about 30 to 60 secs. then quench it in water. All to soften it so you could work it without tearing it. I'm pretty sure that is what they are asking you to do to prep that gasket.
Not that you guys read comments but do you realize those Keihin PJ carburetors have their own unique way of adjusting the idle? There is no idle screw like you guys are used to, you turn the knob on the choke lever to adjust the idle. Look closely on the carburetor under the choke plunger and it's written there on the carb body. In your first video from months ago when charles was cleaning the carb it appears you are missing the top of the choke plunger you would normally turn to adjust the idle.
You guys need a DocZ solo starter to help you with bikes and minibikes. I have one to start my vintage flat trackers at the track and to help at home. Works great and saves my leg.
The CR 500 & The 500 Quadzilla were the 2 baddest machines on the planet!!! Fun Times
🇺🇸🏁🇺🇸
Not only do I love the content, but I love the comrade and the how you all care for each other's safety while doing what you're doing!
is a motorbike that absolutely deserves a complete rebuild and restoration. would have figured out the hole pattern of the old head gasket for the water jacket on the copper pad and used a Dremel and file to ensure standard water flow . Love the content where the guys keep making cars and cameras
I love the videos you guys are a lot of fun.
Can’t believe you cut the seat. Might as well put training wheels on it to make it easier for you. 😂
You might want to check what plug you have and make sure you have the right heat range. Finish tuning the carb.
Then it should start and idle better.
Two strokes take a lot of tuning.
Starting with a smaller bike would have been better but you guys are getting it done.
Good job.
The new copper gasket coolant holes are too small...you can see the big oval coolant holes in the "old" gasket. Those small holes are restricting coolant flow and thusly raising the pressure. Make the new gasket match the old one and try again.
Thank you.I was looking to see if someone would say this.Why have big Ovals,and 1/3" holes in the gaskets?
Thinking the reason for that is to keep the water in the radiator longer,but I'm with you, more volume is better.
I'm sure the people that designed it would have made the holes the same size as the cylinder if it was better . There's a reason it's like it is. Leave it alone
@@mixingasnhaulinass I have done 2 strokes for over 25 years and most of that on Hondas and the clones...
The hole IS too small. They (The people who made it) know it is and will tell you to make it bigger.
Those gaskets fit more than one engine.
Don't give advise if you dont KNOW...in this case I DO know what I'm saying.
I love you guys you're the reason that I'm into mini-bikes and go-karts keep up the good work
Gotta get it running right and actually give it a bit of throttle next time, with the choke off! Its got wayyy more in it
When you tried to anneal Copper head gasket I don't think you heated it long enough. It has to heated to red hot.
Not red hot , its copper it would melt like lead .just get it good and hot and then let it cool off naturally without quenching it in water .
@@nomasker1360 not true.. it needs to be glowing red.. then quenched in water or oil..
Copper melts at 1983 F Lead melts at 622 F.@@nomasker1360
@@texastyrannyresponseteam794 Yeah that HARDEN'S the copper. Not softening it , which is what you want for a head gasket. Watch any knife making show , they quench to harden it. To anneal metal , which keeps it in a softer state , you heat it and let it cool naturally . No quench .
Yeah, they definitely didn't, at least the first time. Maybe Ike did it right the second time but they didn't show it. Also, it should be held at that high temp for a little while so allow it to restructure throughout the whole gasket. Doing it too fast will have inconsistent results, and basically makes this whole process pointless in the given application.
Use two fingers or your middle finger on that clutch to maximize your grip. Takes some getting used to but it most definitely helps be able to handle the ride. And squeeze the bike with your knees when sitting and standing. Keeping your elbows out at a 90 and a 45 will keep you on top of the bike and more engaged as well.
Great video guys. I have an 82 YZ 490 which I've owned since 87. If I try and ride that bike like you guys are riding that 500 without winding it up most of the time it will load up with oil and it gets to where it's real hard to start or you can't start it at all without taking the spark plug out and cleaning it off starting it and then holding it wide open till it cleans the the oil out of the inside of the motor I went through that several times till I learned to ride at wide open throttle. Be careful on that thing. Love your content. I'll chat with you guys about it when I catch you at Pate in April. I seriously thought about buying that bike myself
I did a temp fix with a little JB weld, The jug was deep scuffed, It has lasted 3 years so far.
yup, if they fix te groove with JB before sanded it would have worked
As a 5'6" also that owned a cr 500, I hear your pain. 😅 once ya learn where to put that piston when starting, it goes a lot better.
and they will never run right unless pegged out huh they love the rpms. Been through this many guys are like whats wrong lol go faster thats whats wrong lol its a racing machine not a cruiser
@@jimmycrackcorn9568 exactly there just being whimps its a 2 stroke not a 4stroke its gonna run like crap when your too scared to get in the throttle
@@TylerDuysenThat's not fear, that's respect...and they are amazed at the power...don't pick, it's not attractive...
@@jimmycrackcorn9568 lol they did idle around the track.
right its still awesome i love to watch cause its how i was and am but they still have no clue whats beast they ride upon lol Ike knows but is hesitant and john is too curious still and charles knows lol
@@kwslife116
Also to answer the end of the video. 2 strokes are super funny. Fuel ratio is super important. Check the plug. Plugs are good for only so long in 2 strokes and it would make sense as to why it started great then got worse over time plug was fouling. Especially if coolant was making its way to the piston. Like Issac always says keep it simple stupid. That motto has saved me a ton. Flywheel weight is great for stalling and will make the bike smoother by slowing down the revs. I don’t know about starts but good for slower riding. And obviously a lighter flywheel will do the opposite. It’ll rev up super quick and still easier. Reeds wouldn’t hurt always good to have a fresh set. I don’t remember if y’all have now but check your jetting make sure it’s correct. Could go back to the starting issue. I believe, I could be wrong there’s adjustment make sure it’s 1 1/4 turn out that’s the starting point for pilot jets. Manual might say otherwise.
Might I suggest that the thing you are talking about is a decompression lever. I had a Yammy TT500 which had a decompression lever, I didn't use it in the end as I was heavy enough to kick it over from top dead centre... That TT500 was an awesome 4 stroke beast.
I would have traced out the old head gasket's hole pattern for the water jacket on the copper one and used a Dremel and files to ensure standard water flow. The new one seems to be pretty restrictive. Good catch on the Visegrip gouge.
How the fuck do they not realize the gasket holes are to small and causeing pressure ffs they are killing me
I used unopend bags of socks from walmart to make a minibike seat
I came to the comment section just to see if I was the only one thinking this or not. But yes my thoughts exactly on tracing the copper gasket with the old and make grooves for water jackets.
Restrictive water flow is actually more beneficial in a cooling system, it helps transfer more thermal energy. Common practice across almost all engines.
Restrictive flow shouldn’t cause pressure in the cooling system, that’ll be compression leaking from the cylinder into the coolant passages. Poor seal. Again nothing to do with restrictive coolant flow.
@@joshuacomeau519 so true but hey maybe they get it after they have read these comments
Could be crank seals. But to be fair, I believe those bikes were near impossible to start brand new.
I never quench a copper gasket after annealing it. As it was explained to me, the copper swells when heated and returns 99% back down to size after cooling slowly. I think the quench hardens it which is no bueno.
In the case of the fairly pure copper it does not undergo a phase change - it is a face-centered-cubic (FCC) metal at high temperature and an FCC metal at room temperature. As a result, quenching the copper has no impact on its stiffness, but the quick change in size (it shrinks more than the oxide layer) causes the oxide to flake off. The key to annealing is to get it hot enough, long enough so that new more perfect grains (crystals) form and grow to an optimal size. Too small and the copper is stiff because there are too many grain boundaries. Too large and the grains span across and the properties are inconsistent. I have not researched it, but my educated guess is that the optimal time/temperature will depend upon the thickness.
Steel (an iron-carbon alloy) undergoes a fairly dramatic phase change upon cooling. At high temperature iron is a body-centered-cubic (BCC) metal while it is FCC at room temperature (there is an additional very high temperature FCC phase that is not part of this discussion). The carbon will fit into the gaps in the BCC structure, but not the FCC structure. During slow cooling (traditional annealing) the carbon can move around and form iron-carbide (Fe3C) and let the iron forms its FCC structure. During quenching the carbon cannot move around and the BCC structure distorts into a body-centered-tetragonal (BCT) structure which is very hard and brittle. The steel is then tempered at a moderate temperature to allow the carbon to form very small bits of Fe3C with small FCC iron grains to give a hard, but strong metal.
Now to make things more complicated we have the aluminum alloys that contain a few percent of different alloying elements. At high temperature they form an FCC solid solution that can be quenched with no phase change. They are then reheated to a moderate temperature (tempered) to cause the alloying elements and aluminum to form compounds just like we saw for steel with Fe3C, but these compounds are a bit softer.
All of this effort is to control the motion of dislocations (imperfections) in the metal structure. These dislocations are like putting a bump into the edge of a large rug and pushing the bump across the rug which is far easier than trying to pull the entire rug across the floor at once. It is the same in deforming a metal - the dislocation is far easier to move than trying to move two pieces of the metal past each other at one time. During bending or other cold working (like drawing the wire to diameter) lots of dislocations are put into the metal. This is like having lots of cars on the road in the city center with the stop lights out - grid lock develops and it becomes harder and harder for the cars to move - same with the dislocations. In copper the dislocations become tightly entangled fairly quickly so the metal work hardens quickly and becomes much stiffer. In aluminum they do not entangle as quickly and can even self adjust a bit at room temperature due to the lower melting point of aluminum. As a result, aluminum does not work harden as much or as quickly. The high temperature annealing allows the formation and growth of new, more perfect grains without the dislocations. A bit like waiting until 9 pm to go home to avoid the gridlock.
Just saying after only watching half the video, you need to run it at much higher revs while driving for a high performance 2stroke to run well ;) it sounds like a 4 stroke at low revs ;) but it sounds ok at idle as well
When the head came off it looked suspiciously clean as well as the top of the piston. My experience with old 2 strokes is lots of carbon build up in a pretty short period of time. I would regularly pull the head to scrape the carbon. Introducing a little water into the cylinder will clean the carbon off too. That is what I suspect was the reason for the clean head and piston top.
You guys are doing a great job! Taking an old Legend and bringing it back to life.....even if it's a pain in the ass! Can't wait to see the end product. I think this is the machine will take #1 on the leader board for fastest lap hands down! It's just learning how to ride this machine without killing yourself.....🥴
TO PUT IT BLUNTY YOU GUYS ARE CRAZY. BEFORE MY SON WAS KILLED 20 YEARS AGO. WE USED TO DO THE SAME KIND OF STUFF. I ENJOY WATCHING YOU DO THIS STUFF EVEN THOUGH IM 70 .I WOULD STILL LIKE TO DO IT THANKS ALOT FOR THE GREAT VIDEOS.
I don't think you get enough credit for the edits. Bloody hard work.
John - great edits
Isaac - mad science engineering
Charles - chill vibes
@@kevinleee3408 Don't forget John full send
You set the rear spring at 4” slack. You can use a hammer and punch to turn the adjusters nut
That decompression thing certainly makes a huge difference, much less likely to end up with all three of you hopping about on one leg in pain now... :P
Yep! I still had mine... it's a PITA... or more like a PITL...hahahahahahahaha...
I used to race a 85 cr500, alot of fun, they work better if you add a flywheel weight. They are circular and weld to the outside of the flywheel. It makes them easier to start and keeps it from stalling at low speeds. Also the suspension is horrible, find a racetech dealer and have the rebuild the fork and shock.
Check the cylinder head for warpage. The heat from welding the bung for the compression release to the head may have warped it.
It looked like it has been bead blasted and machined flat
Love large cc 2 strokes. 2 broken collar bones, a concussion, and a foot that hurts everytime it gets cold.from 30 yrs ago. Worth every minute i spent with them.
clean the pilot circuit in the carb body, and it'll idle and run at low rpms. all the air ports in the carb probably need a good cleaning too. if you have to turn the pilot screw out more than 2 turns to idle, the pilot jet is too small. if you have to turn it in to less than 1 turn, pilot is too big. start with that, and make sure the tank is vented properly and float level is set right.
That’s backwards and incorrect. 😂 😂 It’s an air screw on those carbs. Turning the screw out increases air not fuel.
More than 3 turns out the pilot is too large. And if it’s only half a turn out the pilot is a bit small but will still operate fine if you ride it like a 2 stroke and not a 4 stroke.
If your engine braking and keeping the clutch out going down large hills then you might want a larger pilot if the air screws only half a turn out
you're right, i have it backwards.. :shrug @@All-Sgood
from my experience as over 30 years motorcycle mechanic you really need to heat up the coppergaskets very very well to make the copper way more soft to seal correctly and i love how Ike also used copper spray on the headgasket... i do this also on new metal/more layer headgaskets and never ever had one failing or burning on the aluminum parts.... keep on guys i watch all your episodes every time. simply love your friendship and see you have fun and wrench together 🙃🙂👌
I've never ridden any dirtbike over 250 and only could imagine the power that 500 puts out even in 1985. The bike sounds so good. Keep the 500 content coming guys!
I would try different oil. Not oil is equal. As far as idling goes we were constantly adjusting it from the throttle. The reeds do change as it get hot. Something I’m worried about, it was very common to cut the head and run race gas. This is the path I think your on. Something else that used to happen was when they get hot the staters got weak. Sitting and idling is bad for heat those radiators don’t have fans so a liquid cooled engine gets hot faster. I’ve actually have never seen a stock one. When riding you need to keep a steady throttle two stroke can flood out fast when you let off the throttle. The third gear a whole shot is for sand, and it’s amazing. You’re real close. Also, that is way too fast for your track. Gas and oil is best place to start. You could run your track in just second and third keeping the rpm’s up. Thank you it brings back so many memories. I had a friend that build one and he couldn’t start so he let me ride it because I could. I had so much fun.
mirror (or glass) , and sandpaper is the PERFECT re-decking setup 😁😁
You don't quench the head gasket in water when you anneal it . Just let it cool by itself . Quenching it hardens the copper . Which you don't want . Put the head on some plate glass with oiled emery paper and figure 8 it to flatten out the surface .
Not the case with copper. Quenching has no effect on the hardness since it's an FCC at high temp and at room temp. All quenching does is gets rid of the oxidation.
I love the cr500 videos please keep making them.
If you have to remove the cylinder head again, consider checking and setting, if needed, the squish band. Check the how to videos. Very simple and worthwhile to do. Different thicknesses of head gaskets are available to aid in setting the squish band to proper clearance.
Freggin’ love this channel. You guys rock.
Are you reheating the gasket before reinstall? Try putting it in a pot bringing it to a boil and then installing it. I never did the whole quench thing but I've reused them many many times.
Issac, you are my hero!! GenX for that, balls to the wall, no hold back, full send, attitude of pure adventure no matter the situation!!! Willing to do anything because it’s totally worth it, even when you leave the choke on!! LOL. I would watch a video of just a hot lap with that beauty. The testicular fortitude required to just start that thing is enough to make that video a hit.
When you bump start that thing, it’s best to put it in 3rd gear and pop the clutch…. The rear tire won’t lock up and drag the way it dies in 1st. You’ll find it starts much easier.
Check your clutch baskets for notches worn into it. It’s pretty common on the 500’s. They grip the plates and make them not work good. I’ve had them built up and machined back down before but now days I’m sure you can order one cheaper.
I always use a special stud extractor too; attachment on my socket ratchet, when removing or installing studs on my own or other folks engines. Only a "Kevin" would use Mole / Vice grips to remove a stud. I've had to put right a few 2 stroke motors that have been "Kevined" over the past 4 decades. The most recent is a 1978 CZ250 with the wrong specification right crank journal bearing, which the engine still managed to somehow run with, despite the tightness and drag. It was "fun" removing it without damaging the crank.
May I suggest using a small piece of tinfoil as a patch, under the copper gasket, to temporarily fix the damaged sealing surface.
You definitely need a redemption video this one was tuff lol John needs to stop skipping leg 🦵 day at the gym and try without choke on 🤣 I learned how to ride on 500 2strokes if you don’t have the little tricks down you will break your leg , only compression release iv ever needed was on a bulltaco 350 2stroke and that was only because the kickstart is on the left side - would love to see a update when you fix all the gremlins
Had a 91Cr500 ,mine had 2 reliefs about 1/2 tall above the exhaust port to bleed off compression as the piston came up.I had mine bored which removed most them.I reground them back in with a sand roll on a Dremel.Different years had different base and head gasket thicknesses. Put a set of Boysen power reeds,they're cheap & work good.Try a little smaller pilot jet to help adjustability of idle .
What a beast😂
You guys have way to much fun with that clapper. I'm jealous😂😂😂
I used to have one when I was a little younger and I almost died so many times that's to much power
Why didn't you open up the coolant passages all the way on the gasket. Restriction might over pressure it.
You honestly have no idea because you guys haven't gotten into the power band really every time you get close you let out that thing will do third and fourth gear launches in the dirt soft dirt dry dirt that bike does not care but you are going to kill it if you keep bogging it the way you are It needs to be opened up and revved to the max if you don't do that that motor won't last
Heyyyy guys y’all need to replace the clutch basket. It’s probably part of the reason that the clutch is sticking. Once you replace the clutch basket watch a video on how to properly adjust a dirt bike clutch lever. I say you should replace the clutch basket because if you watch the footage from the last cr500 video in the clutch basket there are grooves that run parallel to the clutch plates and that can cause the clutch to hang up way more than it’s supposed to. Also the clutch on this bike is supposed to stick a little, enough to notice it in first gear even in brand new condition with the lever properly adjusted. 👍
This reminds me of the 1986 WR400 husqvarna 2 stroke 6 speed I had. The thing would pull a wheelie in every gear and was just stupid fast. It was built race ready from the factory.
You guys always make me nervous when you play with this beast!!! Also, even though you didn't show it in any great detail, I think you needed to heat that copper a bit more before you quenched it. I've annealed copper pipe a many times for bending and you can really apply some heat to it. You won't hurt it at all.
They didn't even get it close to annealing temperature (cherry red). Also, you don't need to cool it rapidly in water either, but that's probably easier to write instructions for.
It does help to get rid of the oxidation though (quenching). @@johncoops6897
Select the head cap for any warping due to the temperature developed when the chainsaw decompressor was welded. Place the cap on a flat glass and with a gap gauge check for any gap. Keep going you are strong no one is perfect we all learn from our mistakes greetings from Greece
Charles, you really made me laugh when you thanked John for installing the power band lol. It reminded me of a kid in high school I knew roughly around 1986 or 87. He was constantly bullshitting about bikes and racing them and so on but he could never, ever come out with any of us that actually did ride street and dirt bikes. One time he actually told us that he was waiting for a new power band to come into the bike shop in town as his broke in a race lol. Years and years later he wound up getting a job at the factory I was working at and one day at lunch around the picnic table he started to tell everyone a story about how he got caught riding his Harley across the Canadian border from the US with his front forks packed with that illegal white stuff lol. I literally spit my pop out and burst into laughter as I just couldn't contain it any longer lol. Thanks for the flashback memory you guys caused to pop into the front of my brain. It really made me laugh again. The CR 500 was an absolute insane but incredibly fun bike to rip around on. Nothing from any of the other manufacturers compared to in my humble opinion. A friend of mine had a newer one that was all set up for ice racing and I got to mess around with it a few times in my early 20s out on Georgian Bay here in Parry Sound Ontario. It was a shit ton of fun and I wasn't quite as concerned about wiping out as for the most part you'd just fall off and slide until you came to a stop. Of course in my teen years and early to mid 20s there was no such thing as moderation or careful riding but at least there was a significant better chance of no injuries on the ice. It was a completely different experience on the ice and so, so, so much fun. I so wish I could hop on one today but young Paul would surface and most likely kill old Paul lol. You guys take care there and keep safe. Thanks again for all the fantastic content.
We used to turn our electric stove tops to high and heat our copper head gaskets on them 'till they turned cherry red. Never quenched them because we preferred to have them a little soft. I've also had to remove damage from a cylinder/cylinder head mating surface and was away from my shop. I used a sheet of thick glass (from a sliding glass door) to tape the carbide paper to and moved the cylinder across it in a figure eight pattern. The glass is straight as you can get in a pinch and keeps the paper flat. Did y'all know there are starter motor kits available for your bike?
Quenching copper doesn't affect the hardness of it since it's FCC regardless of the temperature. It's different with steel.
❤ Love the show, keep up the amazing work!! ❤
Pull starting a bike you make one wrap around the Handel bar then lay the slack end on your left grip so it is under your palm. After you are running you can clutch and let go of the rope. This this will let it slack and go free. Then you are no longer connected to the pull vehicle. Take it easy and let the bike warm up before ripping it. The higher the gear the better.
watch a ronnie mac video 6 or 9 times. you'll be hole shotting like a pro
The cr500 was wonderful when everything was new, honda didn't fail with these and they were reliable with proper maintenance. Choke was a little pain so keep on it when idle which didn't like to idle anyway because it's a 2 stroke race engjne
Charles just needs a smaller bike to start using a hand clutch with. An xr80r would be nice. But once you're used to snapping up and down gears, you'll want more power. Admittedly that frame is enormous and itll take a while to get used to riding 4 feet off the ground. Personally I think cvts take half the fun out of riding and driving. Save the manual
Cvts just for average riders who want to have some fun but they don’t need to go fast
I was riding YZ490's at 15 years old and nothing comes close to the big two strokes they command respect. Rode a CR500RF four stroke and it was an animal but two strokes are king. You guys have a nugget there!
I bet it would smash any lap record you have in full order.
Not with those 3 riding it
Pull starting a bike is sketchy.
Build a sturdy axle stand and spin the tire. There are many ways, like rubbing rubber with another bike, and quickly unwinding a recovery strap that's wrapped around the tire backwards.
That wreck was the front tire ran over the strap that was pulling the forks, so it pulled steering…which was the wrong way anyway! It should have been attached to the frame!
Not to bag on Charles too bad, but what makes the cr500 appealing is that the bike is trying to kill you 😅 you just can't be faint hearted to ride it or it'll drop you like a bad habit
it worse when they run like shit so you run the throttle open and go from a bog or load up into the pipe, if they could learn how to set up a carb properly these bikes are not nearly as terrifying, mine runes crisp and doesnt 4 stroke at all even cruising at 20mph at 1/8 throttle
That's not what makes the bike appealing 😂😂.
remnants from a granite countertop or tile place makes a really good flat plate and a little spray glue to stick on sand paper makes that a bit easier, or a wet stone that is just used for such things works well, just make sure you file the corners a tiny bit so you don't have a corner that will gouge
Get an actual surfacing plate. The number of heads that come into the shop I work at that have been screwed up by home resurfacing is massive. Not quite as many as Subaru heads (lol), but a lot.
@@FuckGoogle502 yes pulling the block/jug and using the proper equipment is always best buttttt, like what was going on here and well during my last SR20 and VQ35 build that wasn't a option, I still drive the VQ and use it to pull a trailer, think the SR is still running sold the car after driving it for a couple of years and haven't heard that it died yet. You know when the machine shops are 6 weeks out and you need the engine running in 3 days things need to be done.
I wonder how many broke bones or injuries period was caused by riding this bike. It's definitely not a joke. Very wicked bikes
These bikes have probably killed several hundred people just from taking people places they weren't meant to go. Up hills we weren't meant to climb lol.
Loving the longer episodes,
Looking for an hour long bloopers episode...
Thanks for sharing!
Just so you know with those 500 two strokes the less exhaust you got the harder they are to start
I've built many 500, 250, & 125 race motors and you don't need a "professional" to do it. The proper way to "lap" a cylinder or head (and any person can do it) is to get a granite surface plate, BUT, (and that's a big but) you don't "have to have" a granite surface plate. You can easily get by with a nice thick piece of glass. 14" x 14" is a good size. Tape down a full sheet of 400 grit and gently but evenly, push the cylinder in figure 8's. Just a couple passes then check where you're at. Switch to 600 grit and make a few more passes. Then 1000 grit and a few more passes until all the gouges are gone and the surface looks clean. Obviously, you need to remove the cylinder to do this. There is no other way. I'm a retired pro ATV racer and I give you guys a lot of crap on this channel, but it's only because it sometimes drives me crazy watching some of the cringe things you do. Like, I knew Ike was riding around with the choke on. I could hear it the whole time. I would've mentioned it after the video, but then saw that you finally realized it too. Also, running over the tow strap when bump starting the CR...LMAO. Another thing is, you don't listen to people in the comments. The last video on the CR 500 several people told you guys how to turn up the idle. It seems you STILL haven't figured it out. Turn the choke knob counter clockwise to raise the rpm, and clockwise to lower it. Just keep turning until it changes. Oh, and btw Charles, you never, and I mean NEVER, "get used to" riding a CR 500. Good choice on the Boyesen reeds just make sure they sit flat on the reed cage and use Locktite on the screws. Dump the copper head gasket. I never liked those. Go with the OEM style gasket. You can't go wrong with them. A heavier flywheel will definitely help prevent stalling as much and even out the power a little, but I really don't think that's going to help you start it that much easier. Last thing: The suspension. Do yourselves a favor. Pull the forks and rear shock and send it to a reputable suspension tuner. Be honest about your weight and riding ability. What you'll get back will be a dream to ride on.
If you guys want to get the bike perfect, hit up Michael Sabo. Dude can make any bike or atv look brand new and run flawlessly. Would be awesome to see you all do a video together. My childhood best friend had a cr500, we could hardly ever kick start it. We always just roll started it, thing was a beast
Nice to see vids about playing with an 85 cr500r. That's what my bike is, and mine ain't perfect either. On a real hot day this summer, it was jetted a bit too rich to clean out, and the front brake was dragging just a bit. It still went good enough to get me the AMA National Hillclimb Vintage class championship number 1 plate. Didn't think I'd ever see one of those in my lifetime. I love the compression release you put on. Adding one to mine this winter.
Pull starting, shifting for each other…You guys just weren’t cut out for two wheels 😂
They are learning and having fun, there's really no need to be insulting and snobby.
there's no need to be so sensitive. He wasn't being snobby at all. It's true. These guys seem terrified of this bike. Charles won't even ride the damn thing. Some of us wouldn't even say no to a litre 2-stroke if given the chance. Some of us are just built different. @@Toolness1
@@Toolness1 I’m not insulting. I’m generally having a laugh just as I would with a buddy. When you assume…
I'm happy to be learning along with you guys!! Great project and hope you guys have a great holiday.
Charles's reaction is priceless.🤣🤣
When you heat up metal then throw it in water , that makes it harder ! Heat it up then let it cool down slowly.
I can’t watch any more. They’re slowly ruining what was a some what easily rebuildable survivor.
😭don't go
They are learning and having fun. Don’t like it, buy your own and do it yourself!
Those boys don't how precious that japanese demon is
@@Yosser70 the problem is if most of us can actually find one that someone is willing to part with, they are outrageously expensive.
I agree make idiots READ BOOKS.
love the CR 500 content boys...although, when your trying to pull start or even tow a bike of any kind, ya really need to pull from the foot peg on the bike being towed. this enables the rider to have full control over steering as opposed to fighting the forks moving when that is your tow point. It feels alot less like death when youre already scared of the beast that is a CR 500
And wrap it in a way that you can let go when things get crazy.
I've towed hundreds of bikes .
Wrap rope round the headstock with trailing end under throttle hand .
Simply release hand when running .
I live in Georgia. I own an 85 CR500 I have owned it since I was 15 years old(48 now). It still runs like it's brand new. If you are looking to get rid of it. I would be willing to buy it from you if the price is fair. That crank case is going to have to be cracked open and have the shift forks replace as that is why you are having a hard time shifting into first and sometimes in other gears. The jug needs to be resurfaced and probably all new internal bearing done. Shoot me a price that you feel is fair and I'll drive up. Oh and your copper head gasket was for the wrong year. that copper gasket was for 1990-2001. And your idling problem is the carb. The problem is that carb is meant for the track not for trails has a "4 cycle spot” from 1/8-1/4 throttle and then a big hit when it goes into 2 cycle above 1/4 throttle. It’s very difficult to tune out during the summer heat. Not a problem on the motocross track, but in the tight trails it’s a handful. You need a Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker as it’s easier to tune for a wide range of conditions. I have a few of them if you are interested brand new never used. I keep them around just in case I need to replace the one I'm using.
170 keihin main jetting seeing as you're running that open element rather than the oem oil soaked filter,and step the slow jet up to a 68 to 70 and it will start quicker,run smoother at idle,and respond better at middle to wot.. Thats what we did to them back in the 80s and 90s along with aftermarket expansion chambers and stingers/mufflers before we would tear into them,get custom stroked cranks,rods,cylinder sleeves for big bores,higher compression pistons,aftermarket reed cages and reeds,and on and on...
So, as an old guy who actually rode one when new, they are beast!! They do not like putting, they foul out of you putt them around,on or off!
Even a ding in that pipe will effect performance .
As soon as you dial it in, it will be a monster!!
Those are the bikes that started the stadium huge jumps and pretty much an unstoppable force on the track.
Wise to fear it, it will bite you fast!
All that said, so much fun!!!!!😂
I'm 6'3 and 230. So a 250 dirt bike always feels a bit small. Rode a 500 and for me it feels good on size and power .
2 stroke basics.. If its hard to start cold, More then likely Crank seals, Carb boot or other rubber seals if your sure all other basic checks (compression, fuel, spark) are correct; Specially on old two strokes that have been sitting. Having trouble starting after engine is stalled hot is called (hot start) and is a issue of flooding the engine during the stall. im an owner of a Kx500 and these bike can be a bit cold blooded on starts. Keep in mind you haven't even started getting the bike on the pipe, That is where the fun just starts. Good luck and have fun with it.
"Keep in mind you haven't even started getting the bike on the pipe", I agree with u 100% (they are going to be shaking when) powerband hit's mid 3rd pull's like hitting a nitrous button
A bit of JB Weild in the gouging will help after a good cleaning.
Well it helped with a old 200cc hond 3wheeler that had been trashed by 3 different owners before we got it. My cousins ran it that way for a few years and I had it a few years after getting from them. It was still running when I sold it still with the JB.
Hey guys love the show keep it up . Remember that cr 500 likes the rpms it's a 2 stroke . You will find it easier to ride up on the power band .I know it's a beast Ive owned one but give it a try and stay off the clutch .
I normally really look forward to your content. But as someone who was a Motorcycle Technician in the 80's, owned, and rode large bore two stroke dirt bikes all the time. Seeing you all struggle with things every rider fully understands is painful. I never could enjoy I love Lucy because it makes her look pathetic. This gave me the same feeling. No one knows how to start a bike, no one knows how to bump start a bike, no one knows how to seal a two stroke. Clutch sticks but no one spends 5 minutes de-glazing the plates. Most importantly, when you use 3/4 throttle for 1.5 seconds and fully close the throttle, it is not a hole shot. All I saw every single rider do is run the engine so slow it will foul plugs. The best ride still consisted of the shortest applications of throttle I have ever witnessed. Stick to the air cooled minis, your all pretty good at that, and it's not embarrassing whatsoever.
Back of the water pump housing corrodes leaving pinholes through into the crank area which pressurizes the cooling system. The magneto and electrics are on the other end of the crank and the engine is earthed, turning the coolant into an electrolyte that eats aluminium. Remove impeller, brake clean the area behind it, and then press JB weld or a similar product into the pinholes with your finger then sand smooth after it dries so the impeller spins freely.
This is a common problem on older Hondas, I've fixed two CR125s and a 250 that had this exact problem.
As for riding it, put your big boy pants on and just send it.
Yes brov, impressive old bus 🚌....you need to change out the clutch, release bearing, (or if fitted, the clutch master cylinder)....and change the clutch cable....hope that helps. Respect 🙏
He most likely didnt anneal the head gasket properly. It really didnt seem hot enough. The heat is what does the annealing. Do it again but add more heat. Dont be afraid of getting it hot. The softer it is the better it will seal when torqued properly.