Tramming your Chinese 6090GZ CNC Router
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- In this video I'll be going over tramming your mill with the SST tramming tool. I will also discuss using a dial indicator and just some bent wire.
Here are links to the tool and reference surface...
SST Mini Tramming tool (smile.amazon.c...)
Granite reference surface (smile.amazon.c...)
Here is a link to the Mach3 software (minus the license file):
1drv.ms/u/s!Ag...
Here is a link to the RnR Motion DLL file:
1drv.ms/u/s!Ag...
Here is a link to the VFD settings document (from the 3040 manual):
1drv.ms/b/s!Ag...
Here is a link to the manual for the 6090GZ:
1drv.ms/b/s!Ag...
I have been a tool and die maker for over 25 years. This is something that I have done to a "Bridgeport type" hand operated mill and $500,000 CNC machines that I have walked on the table of. Leveling the granite to the spindle won't accomplish anything. You need to be checking the table directly, while not great, extruded aluminum is not as "warpy" as most people might think. I wish I could talk to you directly and explain all of this, because it is actually more than this and at the same time WAY easier to do. I like you brother and appreciate your dedication to accuracy, this is over complicating the process. I ended up here because I am looking for a good CNC machine that won't break the bank. The bottom line is that the spindle assembly should be 100% perpendicular to the TABLE in both the X and Y axis. Someone mentioned using set screws to make the machine adjustable and that is correct, you need to make it adjustable first. Make sure the table is is as perfectly level as you possibly can before you even start this process. I have literally spent the better part of 2 days at work helping set up insanely expensive industrial equipment and a level table has to be the first step. If the machine is not mounted securely and the table level, all of this is "subject to change" in the next week, month, and years. I am NOT trying to be critical, I 100% appreciate you man, but the table without a shimmed block MUST be the reference. @27:39 Just use a block of wood between the clamp screw and the spindle and make certain that the clamp is on the spindle shaft and not on a loose nut or even a tightened nut with a collet. You could even chuck up a threaded rod into a collet and then use two nuts to jam nut a larger diameter "puck" to mount the tram tool too. Then you can use the actual table to get the correct results. 2 indicators are not required though most show it this way. Just zero one side and compare the opposite side number to the zero and then adjust to split the difference and then recheck. ua-cam.com/video/8L0IXKgiZ7o/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/b9gOWHQdrDs/v-deo.html
You are 100% correct. I did want to point out that the table is the untrusted part though. So shimming the granite block to be "level" (sorta) is setting my "table" at level... does that make sense?!!? I've wrapped my head around this as best I can and this is the process that I use... although not perfect.
The end result of this entire process is to have a trammed spindle... and use that to flatten your waste board. If your waste board comes out without any noticeable issues (like saw tooth sudo flatness) then you are good to go.
I'm happy to talk to anyone. And, I appreciate your comments!
hi jeff...is the z clearance from table to bottom gantry 140mm?...reason i ask is you said it was 4 7/16 which contradicts what the specs of 140mm....can you confirm?
The actual measurement is 117mm (from gantry to bed). The gantry is low... but most, standard, router bits work well within this envelope.
I'm confused, in step 1 when the single gauge is marking zero all the way round it means the spindle is perfectly perpendicular in the position its in, also wherever you use the single gauge if it stays at zero it is still perpendicular, I have done this on my milling machine mill and its perfect(takes a while to get it right) The only thing the double gauge helps is you get a reading without moving things and emptying your pocket.
If you have an unknown, you need to insure that the reference surface and one dial are parallel. This does not take into account any implied angle to the spindle. Once we have that reference surface parallel with the sweep of one dial, we can then use the second dial to insure that the spindle is perpendicular with the reference surface we just adjusted.
Does that make sense?? I can do a follow up to explain this better. But there are several videos on UA-cam about this very thing.
Here are links to the dial indicator and spindle mount...
HGC Precision 0-15-0 @ 0.0005" Dial Indicator (smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KLVVF3D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
HHIP Universal Test Indicator Holder (smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BHHY92E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Cool video.
One question. How do you know that the sst tool's 2 guages are level with each other seeing that you removed one guage.
Regarding the tramming of the spindle in the y-axis, you could drill and tap grub screw holes at the top and bottom of the spindle bracket and use that to adjust it and tighten up the cap screws. Once it is tight fill up the gap with epoxy.
Seen some guys doing the tramming like that on cnc vmc's.
Wow... that is a GREAT point. How do I know that the two dial indicators were level with each other. I don't... in all honesty... I took it for granted. One step I should have done was to check the zero prior to checking the tram. I didn't... sorry guys.
Grub screws are a great idea and would make it completely adjustable. That's something I don't think anyone has thought of yet. All the videos I've seen use shims... so, maybe that is in order (by someone else... hahaha).
Those are really good points Banzai Will! Thank you for watching and your comment!
What other ideas can we come up with to make tramming this easier/better/faster?? I'm open to suggestions.
Jeff, great video. I'm thinking about buying one of these machines. After working with it for a while, would you recommend buying it? I'm an experienced machinist and CNC programmer. I just retired and sold all my big machines but would like to get back in to building miniature internal combustion engines. I realize these machines need upgrades to improve rigidity and accuracy. Should I buy one? 🙂
Ed... the 6090 CNC routers are good for wood and light metal. There are several videos of people making them more rigid for doing this type of milling.
But, if I were going to dive into making little engines, I would look for a SIEG X2, or similar, manual milling machine... then do a CNC upgrade (www.heavymetalcnc.com is where I got my parts... seems that they are out of business now. But you can look at this ua-cam.com/video/eLRbDVJakAU/v-deo.html which has Fusion360 files for the parts). I have this mill, and CNC upgrade, in my house and it works great. Keeping in mind that the machine is only as good as its parts... the ball screw upgrade, for the CNC conversion, made it more accurate (vs. the normal acme threaded ones). Also the gibs on the X2 aren't the best either and need adjustment periodically.
Take a look at www.littlemachineshop.com for some ideas of what you can do with a small mill to get it upgraded too.
Final thought... I would not buy this if you want to do anything harder than aluminum or brass. I would get a small mill and convert it (or buy one that is already a turn key solution).
Hope this helps.
@@jeffmorlen , thanks for the comprehensive response. I converted a Bridgeport series two CNC machine into a PC-based machine and made thousands of parts on it. So I’m quite familiar with the conversion process as you suggest here. I also had a tiny little machine called Max and see that I was able to machine some small aluminum parts on pretty easily. I was hoping one of these cheap Chinese machines would be good enough for small aluminum parts. I do realize there is no way I could be heavy milling on it. But now you have me thinking about doing another conversion of a smaller machine :-).
Decisions decisions. Thanks for your thoughts.
Maybe I'll do a tear down on my SIEG X2 and do a video on that. You can buy the X2 from several sources... including Harbor Freight, Grizzly, etc. Right around $900 (I think). I got mine when I had a 20% off coupon at Harbor Freight... and got it for $400 (about 10 years ago). The tooling has cost more than the mill at this point... but I don't need to tell you that.
Good luck!
@@jeffmorlen Jeff, check out the mods the TomasTheCreator made on his 6040 machine. Thick steel table and additional mount for the spindle motor. I suspect the 6040 machine is slightly more rigid than the 6090 for obvious reasons. what he has done to his 6040 may be a perfect set up for model engineering applications but maybe not so much for production applications.
Ciao amico ,volevo un aiuto ,sto impazzendo !!!la mia cnc identica alla tua ha un problema a volte mentre lavora i motori stepper si bloccano facendo un brutto rumore e il lavoro su mach tre continua e sono costretto a buttare il lavoro ,è capitato anche a te? Aiutooo
Sembra che le tue impostazioni in Mach3 non siano corrette o che ci sia un problema con i cuscinetti/le viti di comando. Indovinerò le impostazioni in Mach3. Lo dico solo perché puoi guidare i tuoi stepper troppo forte (ovvero veloce) e salteranno i passaggi. Questo fa un suono orribile e rovinerà la tua scultura. Ho il file XML per il 6090 nella descrizione del mio canale e in alcuni video. Provalo rinominando il tuo attuale XML e sostituendolo con quello che ho. Questo potrebbe risolvere il tuo problema.
A che velocità (mm/min) lo stai eseguendo?
@@jeffmorlen 25 mm /sec
Puoi provare a rallentare la velocità a qualcosa di più conservativo, come 20 mm/sec (1200mm/min), e vedere se questo aiuta? Fammi sapere.
Inoltre, quale software stai usando per generare il G-Code?
@@jeffmorlen uso aspire e gli utensili come velocità massimo 25 mm al secondo non di più…
Puoi impostare lo strumento su 20mm/sec e rigenerare il G-Code? Allora fai una prova e fammi sapere.
このゴミルータ弄るのやめた方がいい時間の無駄、新規作り替えた方が安く付くと思うよ
I'm sorry... I don't read/write Chinese?
@@jeffmorlenHe said the 6090 was trash and that you should build your own.
@@JohnHoranzy
It isn’t great but isn’t horrible either. I’ve built my own in the past and it always comes down to quality of components.
For me, it was cheap enough, and good enough, to justify the purchase vs. a build.
Of course…
I still have a ton of parts in a shopping cart for a 1700mm x 900mm build. 🤔
@@jeffmorlenI trammed mine when I assembled it. I think this is a fine machine. I could not measure any run out in the spindle. I am having trouble with Mach3. Will be putting a stand alone controller on it.
If you need help with Mach3, I'm happy to help get you up and running. Just let me know.