Відео

Most people put a spoiler board on top of the aluminum bed. So that stiffens up the bed quite a bit.

The actual measurement is 117mm (from gantry to bed). The gantry is low... but most, standard, router bits work well within this envelope.

The issue that you face with running a VFD at a lower speed is that it will consume higher amperage to maintain that speed as the cutter has to work harder to move through the material. Thus, you also tend to heat the system up in doing so as well. I have had overheat issues with mine after extended cutting times. It is perfect... no. Does it work... yes. I don't run my spindle much below 14000 for standard router bits.

Yes... by comparison to $10000 machines, it is slow. By comparison to $5000 it is slow. But, it is only $2000ish... and you get what you pay for. If someone were interested and handy, they could upgrade all the components (electrical: steppers, drivers, couplers, etc) they could make the machine move very quickly. Not to mention, some of the "fast" machines are rack/pinion or belt drive. That makes a huge difference too.

As a complete unit, in the box, it is, about, 200lbs total. I wanna say that the shipping label said 173lbs.

I added the auto zero script to the channel info page (at the bottom). I think it is "current" but I have not looked at it in a little bit. If you use it and have questions, please let me know.

Depending on what I'm doing it would be a mix of Google Sketchup (with tons of plug-ins; old version) or Vectric V-Carve (old version). Most of what I do would be considered 2.5D work (meaning Z axis does not really move while doing a cut... just goes to a depth and cuts there).

On my machine it is Port #3 Pin #4.

@@jeffmorlen thank you , I will try that

You should start with the seller, the manufacturer is, from what I found, difficult to get a response from. But, the machine is a culmination of readily accessible parts. There really isn't anything "special" about the machine unless you need to replace aluminum parts/plates. Is there a part you need?

You're welcome. If you need something specific, just ask. I'm happy to help.

I'd be happy to help you. Shoot me an email and we can try to get you up and running.

There isn't a driver, for Windows, really. The DLL that you need, for the R&R Motion Controller, is dropped into the plugins directory within Mach3. As far as settings that need to be changed in Mach3... Yes, TONS. But they should be within the XML file you can get from the mfg. or seller. If you don't have one, I have an XML file for download (check the channel page).

YES!! I have gotten the same error. The error indicates that the VFD has overheated. It is a real pain in the... you know where. I have found a couple people say that they added fans to the control box to keep it cool. I have also found a guy who said that he reversed the fan direction and that helped. I have gotten it 5-10 times and it is always in the middle of final pass cut (when doing 3D stuff). Mach3 will give you the ability to start at a line number and that is how I handled it (without modification) in the past. Meaning, if you get the 0h error, stop the machine. Document the line number it says it was on and step backwards until it picks up where it left off. By "step backwards" I mean... If it errors at line 1800... go back to 1750. If that isn't back far enough, then go back to 1700. I've had luck with this... but, be warned, it is NOT a perfect fix for it. I hope this helps. Maybe I'll tear my down in a video and show everyone what is really inside... with explanations.

I think that that statement was made based off the documentation on Amazon regarding the machine. My machine has no limit switches on the Z Axis either. As far as homing switches, there aren't any. But you could use limit switches on X and Y to do homing. You'd just need to write the script to do that.

The real working area is, about, 850mm x 580mm (if memory serves me right).

I'd be interested to find out why you didn't like your 6090 CNC router. It has many benefits over a Shapeoko, price being the main one ($2000 vs. $4200). Of course, I'd be happy to take your 6090 off your hands... :)

For the work that I do, it is perfect. It hit the price point that I needed, the features that I needed, and the size that I was looking for. For the Z axis only moving down... does it make noise and try to move up? If not, you may have some other parameter in Mach3 backwards... but I wouldn't be able to tell you what without looking at your setup (sorry).

You are 100% correct. I did want to point out that the table is the untrusted part though. So shimming the granite block to be "level" (sorta) is setting my "table" at level... does that make sense?!!? I've wrapped my head around this as best I can and this is the process that I use... although not perfect. The end result of this entire process is to have a trammed spindle... and use that to flatten your waste board. If your waste board comes out without any noticeable issues (like saw tooth sudo flatness) then you are good to go. I'm happy to talk to anyone. And, I appreciate your comments!

I currently use Vectric products. Vectric V-Carve Desktop (lowest version) is a fairly cheap way to get into design with using a CNC in mind. You can use Fusion 360, but I found it very hard to master... I can design in it, but only simple stuff. Hope that helps.

@@jeffmorlen Thanks again!

Okay... I'm happy to help. Send me an email and I'll see what I can do.

I’ve debated putting a dedicated controller on mine as well. However, Mach3 does what I need it to do. I’m happy to help you out, if you need assistance.

The Z axis has no limit switches on my machine... so yours may not either. This is the pin out for the CNCEST 6090GZ with the R and R Motion controller card. Yours may be different, but may use the same pin outs. The pin out for the limit switches and inputs are: X+++/X--- = Port 3, Pin 2 Y+++/Y--- = Port 3, Pin 2 Z+++/Z--- = Port 3, Pin 2 These are in one loop and a single trigger stops the machine. Other ports/pins to note are: Probe = Port 3, Pin 4 Limit Override = Port 3, Pin 3 E-Stop = Port 3, Pin 1 I hope this helps!!

@@jeffmorlen ,🙂🙂🙂🙂❤️ thanks for all

You are welcome!! If you have any issues, please let me know.

Hi. I fixed the error code B109-13 by copying and pasting to my desktop the file in the installation cd of mach3.❤❤❤. It works now... but... more problems

What other problems are you having? I'm happy to help.

@@jeffmorlen Z axis limit switch es.... I need an emergency stop for the Z axis. Why they don't install n2 switch? 5 $ totally. 😤. I can't open the vdf controller ( Warranty), but i can install n2 switch on the cable of x axis switch limit. 🤭😁

I won't tell anyone... :/

I did receive a hand control for my unit. I do not use it. It is an RJ11 (telephone jack) to USB style controller cable. Because I use a USB keyboard, I've noticed that if I use the keyboard, I cannot use the hand control. So there are issues with it... to say the least.

@@jeffmorlen Ok. Thank you so much. I recently talked to the seller and he realized he didn’t put it in the box. He sent me a handler control, but I have no idea what’s coming.🥹 Have a great day 👍👍👍

Yes, you can cut 1-2mm thick aluminum on this unit. You will need to watch your feeds and speeds for the material you are looking to cut. But yes you can cut it. One thing to note... This machine is made of aluminum. So there is flex in the gantry and Z axis.

YOU ARE WELCOME!!! I started posting these because I found the same thing you did... a complete lack of information on the quick "HOW-TO" of it all. None of this stuff is rocket science... but it does take a little experience and know how. And, if I can share that through a video... I will. Is there anything you need/want to know?? I can make a video for it. I have taken, about, a year off from videos and focused on projects. But, if you let me know what you want to see, I'll try to put it together for you.

My cost, through Amazon, was $2550 (I believe). You can still get a unit like this for, about, $1900.

First things first…. Do you have the same machine? Or, at a minimum, something similar. Does your CNC have a manual/pc selector switch? Switch that to manual. Make sure the knob is all the way to off, or the slowest setting. Press the green “run” button on the VFD. Turn the knob and increase the frequency. If it spins, then the VFD is working. Turn the knob and stop the spindle. Press the stop button in the VFD. Change the switch back to PC control. Press the green run button again. Within Mach3, if configured, you should be able to hit the “Spindle CW” button within the GUI to start the spindle. Hit it again to stop the spindle. ** Note: please make sure you have no loose parts, material, clothing, or body parts near the spindle during this operation. **

The Z clearance is only, about, 6 inches. So, losing another .75"/20mm in the Z axis is not desirable.

If you have an unknown, you need to insure that the reference surface and one dial are parallel. This does not take into account any implied angle to the spindle. Once we have that reference surface parallel with the sweep of one dial, we can then use the second dial to insure that the spindle is perpendicular with the reference surface we just adjusted. Does that make sense?? I can do a follow up to explain this better. But there are several videos on UA-cam about this very thing.

There are a couple solutions on Amazon. One from RATTMMOTOR looks promising. You can also get a printer port card for your PC.

Sorry... I need to get a BT microphone or something.

Let's start by you sending me an email. My address (for this channel) is in the channel details.

Let's start by you sending me an email. My address (for this channel) is in the channel details.

My CNC does not have limit switches on the Z axis. One thing to note about CNC is that it is based on the plus, or minus, movement of the axis from it's zero point. The zero, with most woodworking/metalworking is the surface of the material (or the bed of the machine). So, this is the reference point that it starts with. One thing to note is that you CAN push your Z axis to it's upper and lower limits and you will cause your system to stall or crash. So, within the software we can set safe limits. But, in most cases, we just design our pieces to not exceed the limits of the machine. Does that make sense?

My Y axis moves pretty easy without the power on. I would think that something is aligned incorrectly or there is something in the way. Alternatively, the linear rails may not be parallel and that could also cause a binding scenario. You can take the gantry off and still run the machine. I would probably take that off and then remove the bed of the unit. That way you can see what is happening when you try to move it. Sorry your unit is not working properly. If you cannot get it fixed easily, I would contact the seller and let them know of your issue. They may have some more insight as to what could be causing the issue.

@@jeffmorlen thank you so much for the reply Jeff, I actually found the issue, the y axis motor was damaged in transport, removing the motor allowed me to move the axis freely. I'm in contact with my seller to get a replacement. thanks again for your detailed response and troubleshooting support :)

This is something that I've thought about for a while. But, like you, were not able to figure out how to use the limit switches as home switches too. In the end, I think a separate switch would be best to fine tune the homing function. Meaning, you could go past the homing switch, but then encounter the limit switch. It would give you the ability to have a constant 0-0 starting point, but also the safety to not crash your machine. Does that make sense?

Makes sense as it is supposed to be. Though a limit switch signal shall be bypassed while homing and it doesn't happen. I want to give a try again in the next few days. Maybe delaying the limit switch input (dangerous), or better checking my configs... In case I'll let you know. By the way, I finally understood what the green button was intended for, but I still prefer the software "override limit switch" which is even safer since it allows the limits to stop the machines as you move back off them.

Depending on your machine, they could be wired in parallel. This would stop the ability for it to be able to isolate one switch.

I confirm that as any of my four switches is triggered I actually see ALL of the limits and homing inputs lighting up. Mach3 homing does not ignore the limits and estop the procedure. Rnr motion card mentions homing and limiting on shared switch, but no documentation...

I do offer remote help. Please reach out to my email address (in channel info).

There are links to the files in the video description. But, here is a link to just the XML file. 1drv.ms/u/s!AgxiwVost-OPi4EsMrgdUDmTE12KTA?e=TQrFsc

I have links to downloads of the files (no license files are included) in the description. ua-cam.com/video/SCau8R3PfAo/v-deo.html

@jeffmorlen I did get a flash drive but it doesn't do anything but connect to hand held controller

If it has the RJ11 (phone looking connector) on one side and a male USB on the other, that is just the interface for the pendant controller (which I don't use). But, the other files can be found in my links. ** You should not need a driver to use the pendant.

@@jeffmorlen yes its usb on one side and tele on the other side let me try and open link u sent...

@jeffmorlen nothing worked today ,I did have another mach3 on my pc I wonder if that caused anything to not work ,but I could not see program files

For $1300 the machine is worth it. If you need any help, please let me know.

The only "better" thing about the 6090 vs the 6040 is the size... when talking about the CNC machines from CNCEST. The machine work area is larger on the 6090. Also, not knowing what 6040 you are looking at, there may be more spindle options on the 6090 vs the 6040 as well. Otherwise, they are, usually, a similar machine.

@jeffmorlen if you make a tutorial on hoe to extend bed to say cut or taper something up to 32 inches between centers that be awesome!

Getting my 4th axis up and running is on my list. But, I'm in Wisconsin (USA)... so we take advantage of any good weather we get (usually 2-3 months of the year... haha)... and I've been spending a lot of time working on engines this summer. I'm hoping to have a quick "Let's get you up and running with your 4th axis" video in a month or two (which may be longer... and I may have started that project more than once already... eek). But, the information that I'll try to convey will be relatable in many ways. For a taper, like on a pool cue, I can think of some ways to do this in software and a couple ways with just a simple mounting plate/jig. It doesn't have to be complicated to work... right? I'll keep you posted. Thank you for the comments. If you need direct help, please send me an email.

Oh btw I have Gcodes ,I also had a 10k cnc just fr cues but it got sold and now I'm into buying a 1600 cnc ,so I figuere just load gcodes and send it

As long as the G-Codes are generic, it should be fine. But, something to keep in mind is that this CNC runs using Mach3, from machsupport.com. This is an older package (as of the time of this comment, they are no longer developing Mach3 and focusing on Mach4) and you get a questionable license with most CNC machines out of C#!n@.

I'm happy to help you. Please look at my page details for an email address you can use to contact me. From there we can setup some time via Zoom/Teams/other for me to give you a hand.

I'm happy to help you. Please look at my page details for an email address you can use to contact me. From there we can setup some time via Zoom/Teams/other for me to give you a hand.

Glad you like them!

I'm not sure what the difference would be. I've searched for the 6090Z and could not find anything significant. Most of the differences that I noticed were things like limit switch placement and the advertisement of the unit as being made of "steel". Mine, I believe, at the time of the purchase, said it was made of steel too... but most of the larger parts are aluminum with steel screws and covers. Of course the linear rails are polished steel as well. I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have more information on the differences.

Oh no!! You didn't have any sound?? I'm sorry, the video (I just re-checked it) does have audio. Maybe try a different browser?! :(

Thanks 👍

Mi enrutador funcionó bien, para mí. Lo uso para hacer letreros y piezas 2D (principalmente). Pero, por el costo, creo que es una buena inversión.