You do not zero the gauge by removing all the preload. You should start in the middle of the range (2.5), rotate the engine back then just rotate the dial face to zero. You want to maintain some preload at your zero setting.
protip, loosen the camsaft rear pulley bolt and rotate rear pulley over cam, same thing but you dont need to turn the pump and loosen that annoying hexhead, faster and easier.
The first time I set my pump, I used that method. I couldn't find the hex head, and rotating the pump was impossible. The only reason I don't like that method is that when re-torquing the cam pulley, I kept slightly pulling on the pump belt and changing my timing. In the long run, this method was quicker for me. But, that method certainly does achieve the same result.
Hello! Great video :) How do you turn up the pump so it gives more fuel? I have been driving mine bone stock for a while, but thought it might be fun to give it some more power :) (I have an intercooler and I plan on putting an EGT before the turbo so i don't overheat it)
There is a slotted screw held in place by a jam nut which may have some kind of anti-tamper device on the front of the pump. Screwing in will increase fuel. Mark your starting position carefully so you can return it if you go too far.
Omg that valve cover is rusty looking. I painted mines and the entire engine looks so much better. Nice videos. How does it run now? Ever measured compression?
I sold the car about 2 years ago, and the new owner didn’t have it for long, so I’m not sure. I never checked compression as I didn’t want to deal with removing injectors and it didn’t have any running issues
Thought so too, but if it was some more digits in the number where you can buy it, because I googled "Volvo 5194" and I only found one one amazon that was selling, and they did not ship to Sweden, and it looked shorter than yours on the pic.
The hex key/allen bolt on my car behind the pump is stripped and impossible to move, do you think it would be possible to time the pump with that in place? Would you be able to overcome the friction it provides?
@@adamdrives365 See now i've tried that with limited success, both with morse bolt extractors and the rounded bolt sockets. I was actually able to get the pump to move though. Do you happen to know the OD of that bolt?
The dial indicator is a universal part but the adapter is a Volvo tool. There is also a Volkswagen equivalent. As far as spec for timing 0.90 is generally the recommended number.
Hi Adam. I just changed the timing belt and my engine IP is "delayed" (about 0.41 instead of 0.95). I applied the procedure of your video but the angle I succeed to rotate the pump is not enough: I reached an advance of just 0.50. Must I loose the camshaft rear pulley as Seteli does? It seems that the regulation marge is too little for my deregulation. Thanks in advance!
mushyhsum I’m not sure, it’s been a while since I touched one of these, if you’re having trouble I would ask for help on the d24t.com forum. I like to keep the belt on, I’m not sure why you’re running into that problem.
mushyhsum I’m not sure, it’s been a while since I touched one of these, if you’re having trouble I would ask for help on the d24t.com forum. I like to keep the belt on, I’m not sure why you’re running into that problem.
@@adamdrives365 Thank you so much for your anwers, and I'm sorry for bothering you. We could finally adjust the timing! (There was a 4th nut that held the IP tight and we didn't see before) Now we're having issues with the breaks. The car's been waiting still for 5 years now, so it was about time to get it moving and put it in shape. Kind regards.
Nice video, well explained. I've a VW lt31 with this engine
Thank you!
You do not zero the gauge by removing all the preload. You should start in the middle of the range (2.5), rotate the engine back then just rotate the dial face to zero. You want to maintain some preload at your zero setting.
That makes sense, great point 👍
protip, loosen the camsaft rear pulley bolt and rotate rear pulley over cam, same thing but you dont need to turn the pump and loosen that annoying hexhead, faster and easier.
The first time I set my pump, I used that method. I couldn't find the hex head, and rotating the pump was impossible. The only reason I don't like that method is that when re-torquing the cam pulley, I kept slightly pulling on the pump belt and changing my timing. In the long run, this method was quicker for me. But, that method certainly does achieve the same result.
Hello! Great video :)
How do you turn up the pump so it gives more fuel?
I have been driving mine bone stock for a while, but thought it might be fun to give it some more power :)
(I have an intercooler and I plan on putting an EGT before the turbo so i don't overheat it)
There is a slotted screw held in place by a jam nut which may have some kind of anti-tamper device on the front of the pump. Screwing in will increase fuel. Mark your starting position carefully so you can return it if you go too far.
Thanks❤
Great vid
Omg that valve cover is rusty looking. I painted mines and the entire engine looks so much better. Nice videos. How does it run now? Ever measured compression?
I sold the car about 2 years ago, and the new owner didn’t have it for long, so I’m not sure. I never checked compression as I didn’t want to deal with removing injectors and it didn’t have any running issues
How to put it in TDC when the transmission is removed
Keep the flex plate/flywheel in I suppose
Where can you buy that volvo tool to put in the IP?
Johan Wahlström the tool is in storage I will get a part number next time I’m there. Ebay is probably you’re best bet.
Yes that would be great!
Is the number 5194 maybe? In My greenbook from 240 diesel it says that with that tool?
Johan Wahlström it would be the same as 240 tool. Same pump without the LDA
Thought so too, but if it was some more digits in the number where you can buy it, because I googled "Volvo 5194" and I only found one one amazon that was selling, and they did not ship to Sweden, and it looked shorter than yours on the pic.
The hex key/allen bolt on my car behind the pump is stripped and impossible to move, do you think it would be possible to time the pump with that in place? Would you be able to overcome the friction it provides?
That will be very difficult. You may need to get a socket for stripped bolts that can fit over it
@@adamdrives365 See now i've tried that with limited success, both with morse bolt extractors and the rounded bolt sockets. I was actually able to get the pump to move though. Do you happen to know the OD of that bolt?
minecraftboytoy of the bolt, or the bolt head? Probably 6-7mm shaft and 8-10mm head
@@adamdrives365 That's perfect, I'm going to try to use the irwin type bolt removers
I found a guy in Maine who rebuilds those vacuum pumps.
deiselgas Thomas Bryant? He’s the most experienced and knowledgeable d24 guy I know of.
@@adamdrives365 That could be him I don't recall. It was a few years ago but I can look at my records if anyone needs it.
@@adamdrives365 yes he is a real d24 professional
yes he is The pro d24 man!
where to get this timing tool and number?
The dial indicator is a universal part but the adapter is a Volvo tool. There is also a Volkswagen equivalent. As far as spec for timing 0.90 is generally the recommended number.
Hi Adam. I just changed the timing belt and my engine IP is "delayed" (about 0.41 instead of 0.95). I applied the procedure of your video but the angle I succeed to rotate the pump is not enough: I reached an advance of just 0.50. Must I loose the camshaft rear pulley as Seteli does? It seems that the regulation marge is too little for my deregulation. Thanks in advance!
mushyhsum I’m not sure, it’s been a while since I touched one of these, if you’re having trouble I would ask for help on the d24t.com forum. I like to keep the belt on, I’m not sure why you’re running into that problem.
mushyhsum I’m not sure, it’s been a while since I touched one of these, if you’re having trouble I would ask for help on the d24t.com forum. I like to keep the belt on, I’m not sure why you’re running into that problem.
@@adamdrives365 Thank you so much for your anwers, and I'm sorry for bothering you.
We could finally adjust the timing! (There was a 4th nut that held the IP tight and we didn't see before)
Now we're having issues with the breaks. The car's been waiting still for 5 years now, so it was about time to get it moving and put it in shape.
Kind regards.
make it roll coal :)
If you check my side pipe video you will see some smoke. I tried to keep it mild for stop and go traffic